Verlorenkloof - Au Naturel! by Andrew Allman

As Life Should Be…

I had once read that fly fishing can be a way to boost your love life and mental wellbeing and I fully concur. I am never more happier than when fishing and especially in the company of the love of my life; my wife. Fly Fishing is no longer a ‘macho thing’ and whilst it may not be the ideal first date, it certainly does provide an opportunity to witness one’s creativity and patience levels but most importantly, their reverence for all living things. Flyfishing is about living and loving life.

It is then of no coincidence that fly fishing estates are set in beautiful surrounds and when the beat of the city proves just too much to shoulder and the soul needs replenishment, what better place to find yourself and your loved ones, than at Verlorenkloof Estate.

For beauty alone, Verlorenkloof is a mustvisit destination but it offers so much more and this little gem of Mpumalanga has a myriad spectrum of activities that are sure to satisfy even the most discerning holiday maker. So forget your woes, leave behind the rat race and pack your rods, hats, boots and sun cream and head off East with a song in your heart and a knowing smile on your face.

If you live in Johannesburg or Pretoria it is a gentle three- hour drive and if you are further afield, then why not enjoy the other attractions of Mpumalanga such as Dullstroom, Mashishing, Sabie and the Blyde River Canyon? It is a short distance off the R 3 6 a t B a m b i , i f t r a v e l l i n g v i a Schoemanskloof onto Kruger and other parts of the Lowveld. Just a word of caution though, the R36 is still under construction, but is drivable and there is a most suitable gravel alternative via Dullstroom. We used the Schoemanskloof option and did not find the trip at all onerous but we are fortunate enough to drive a high rise vehicle. Slow and easy should do it though for any mode of transport which you care to use. On the return trip our hosts had guided us through a scenic mountain excursion back to the N4 which boasted breath-taking views and was similarly enjoyed by a number of aerial enthusiasts soaring high above in their hanggliders. I fully recommend the latter but suggest you get more updated details on the state of the roads from Reception.

Verlorenkloof is a Shareblock development and sought- after holiday destination in the Mpumalanga Trout Triangle that offers nature-based activities most suited to those who are so inclined and enjoy relaxation in beautiful surrounds. It comprises diverse biogroupings in the form of wetlands, grassland, forested kloof, mountains, streams, rivers, dams and waterfalls. Developed by Eric and Heidi Johnson whose family owned property in the area since 1970, they are two very special people who have deep feelings for both people and the environment. They exude passion for the land, its people and for every living thing; and even for those that are dead and ancient ie. Archaeology! Their easy- going example is followed by all 75 staff who willingly contribute to a successful team providing a service to those who own a

The Shareblock development is spread out and is around 500 hectares in extent, part of a 1600 ha working farm. It was driven into creation not just by the need to diversify income generation in a declining dairy farming industry, but to give back something to the environment and community. Eric and his family have empathy for both and have used local content in their mission plan. There was a vision to respect and preserve what was already provided; but also an opportunity to enhance it’s value so that others who follow may enjoy the experience into perpetuity.

The self- catering crofts are in effect cottages built of local stone and originally of thatch from the surrounding area. They are unlike the Scots version in that you can not use the arable land for your own livelihood and are a lot more spacious and luxurious than those I have ever seen on the Isle of Skye. They comprise 6 and 10 sleepers and are well appointed and very comfortable with large verandas and views to die for. They adopt the natural theme in fabrics used and local wood with walls adorned in original paintings of the area.

Although the concept is one of selfcatering there is a facility on site to provide meals to your Crofts or you can enjoy brekkie and lunch at the lodge. So, for those travelling from Big Smoke, phone ahead and on arrival your Croft will be infused with the pleasant smells of a freshly cooked meal and all one needs to do is just pop the cork! There is an outside lapa which is an option to the

Our croft was perched atop a mountainous area with a view down the unfolding valley and along the Steenkampsberg range. We had a nightly visit to our wide- open veranda in the form of a Small Spotted Genet who was very tame and had no doubt enticed a few scraps from the dinner table of previous guests. We knew it was wrong but gave into those imploring eyes and so felt obliged to share a few morsels with our uninvited dinner date .’She’ seemed very comfortable with us, more so than we with her, and after her meal she would lie stretched out on the stoep preening herself, just like any other domestic cat being well satisfied by her human slaves. On the last night she brought her mate around for a ‘meat and greet’. It was a special time for us all.

The activities on offer include hiking with 42km of trails and the venue is used by Lowveld Hikers, amongst others. There is horse riding where the Nooigedacht bred ponies are a safe and pleasant ride. Birding is another favourite where there are 331 identified species and we found another in the form of a Square Tailed Drongo which was not listed. There are 483 plant species and 30 Wild Orchids. And, there are even archaeological sites to visit. There are guides for all these activities with Joseph being the most affable ‘Experiential Manager ’and Eric lending support towards the by- gone era whilst Heidi favours the living here and NOW.

They grow their own organic veggies on the estate and being an Agritourism farm, supply for sale some awesome natural foods. There is array of products on offer at the lodge and to name just a few these include humus, milk, cream, butter, yoghurt cream cheese and my favourite; the natural yogurt made ‘as it should be’.

The yoghurt reminded me of my youth and to happy times back on the farm in Zimbabwe. My Grandmother lived in a very remote area and I would go and visit there as a young boy for school holidays. She made fruit preserves in those Consol jars with a rubber seal. I would watch the whole process and help where I could.

Gran received daily milk and cream from the neighbouring dairy and made yoghurt. I would often walk across to watch the milking and seeing the dairy at Verlorenkloof took me way back to WHEN. Our farm life was special in that it united us as a family and extended family and was such a happy time for us all. The yoghurt taste at Verlorenkloof reminded me of those special times when natural was the only way and Verlorenkloof exemplifies all that is good and natural.

And of course, there is fly fishing with 6 still water dams being fed by mountain streams on the one side of the Crocodile River and another, on the opposite side. The water clarity in both dams and rivers is of exceptional quality but the weather was hot and the water was warm. The fishing is something that needs support from FOSAF and others; and has two core objectives.

But first, a little bit of background. Between 1985 and 1998 there was syndicated fishing on the river and there was stocking. In 2015/16 there was a drought and water levels dropped with large fish mortalities. There has been no for mal stocking programme since then but there have been annual hatches in the river, thus proving that there is a strain of trout that is surviving but possibly not thriving and is somehow resilient to low oxygen, high water temperatures, otters and other predators of our beloved trout. Some fish have recently been taken and carefully handed over to the local hatchery.

The first objective is a Wild Trout Breeding Project where fish caught in the Crocodile River will be interbred with those at the Lunsklip Fishery; and then the off- spring reintroduced into the river system. This will require support and collaboration from many parties in order to bring the river fishing back to it’s former glory. It will create another opportunity for recreational fly fishers and could well have greater positive impacts to the entire value chain.

The second goal is one around a Youth Education Programme. Previously the Gauteng North Fly Fishing Association and Jacaranda Fly Fishing Club, both based in Pretoria conducted fly fishing clinics for children. They used the Crocodile River and dams on Verlorenkloof to train the youngsters. The children were trained as controllers for a few fishing championships and some later went on to find work in the industry. The initiative was stopped some 2 years ago with accommodation being cited as one of the main reasons. Eric, has now advised that he has the support of 6 skilled fly fishers for the resumption of the clinics and has accommodation and facilities for them but would require motivation from FOSAF to get it all going again.

I did test the Crocodile river with my ‘9 footer’ and trusted companion and fishing guide, Buffel. I was unsuccessful, possibly through inappropriate tackle for the current state of the river, although I do know that Buffel and others more skilled then I, have been luckier in the recent past. So, despite the water levels being very low, there are deeper pools and hideaways for wild trout. O n e j u s t n e e d s a l i t t l e p a t i e n c e , perseverance and maybe a touch of luck but my sense is that if the stocking of resiliently bred trout was kicked off, then who knows what the future may hold for the Crocodile?

So what of the still water fishing you may say? Eric informs that the dams are 4.5m deep at the middle and although there was very little sign of weed proliferation, there is a maintenance plan that is ongoing and effective. Stocking is normally twice a month supplied from Lunsklip and fish vary in size from 1.2 to 1.5kg.

There is a catch and release policy and only barbless flies are permitted with a rod limit per Croft. I can vouch for the barbless scales being fairly balanced between my inattentiveness and trout gluttony which cost me personally more than a few fish. My guides, both seasoned professionals and familiar with the waters seemed to suffer the same affliction so it would seem to be that all is fair in love and war.

So what worked? I was once told by a KZN fly fisher, who is popular on TV that if you can’t see the fish; then they most likely are not there! He encouraged sight fishing to improve one’s chance of catching. I have used that assumption to varying degrees of success in my travels but more so in rivers. In the past I felt that the use of guides helped one get into the fish quicker, particularly if they scouted ahead.In my case it was better late than never as I left all my catching to the last day and I don’t know who was more relieved, Buffel or I? The first fish caught by a friend on day one was small and foulhooked, so that did not count and then

There is nothing more frustrating than not catching but sight casting to big trout and then being rejected of every possible offering is a hard pill to swallow.

It reminded me of how my mother used to battle with us accepting cabbage as a staple diet. My brother and I hated it with a passion until my mother mixed it up with our favourite peanut butter. I knew I could not use bait but had to find a way to deceive these trout into believing my offering was better than… sex. Yes, I do believe that spawning was a contributing factor to the low number of takes that we experienced with tag being played out in the shallow waters and there was also evidence of head butting seen on cock trout.

I had tried to become too technical in my attempts and on day three went back to the tried and tested which thankfully worked. I used Buffel to point out the location of cruising trout and sight casted directly into their path. I didn’t wait for the fly to drop but gave it one sharp strip which was immediately snaffled. Jackpot, I was on the scoreboard and looking good! Next, Buffel was hugging me and telling me how great it was and I realised that life was sweet!

Try using an egg as a strike indicator and then beneath that an olive buzzer or GRHE nymph. There were many different variations of successful flies doing the rounds at the dams and from ultra- slow to whipping fast retrieves. I am not qualified to tell you what is best for you but to be honest I suggest that you use what you are familiar with. When you start tampering with what has been previously effective, you tend to lose your way. The old woolly glided near the bottom with a slow retrieve is just as deadlier now as it ever was and nymphing at the right time of the day is a sure winner but sadly the dry fly got the complete thumbs down at every attempt.

I took a novice fly fisher with me. He did require a good deal of help with his casting and I would like to commend Buffel on improving that aspect of his game.

There are no doubt some very large fish living in those dams although I did not entice any real monsters into my net. I also did not weigh the fish which I caught and released, but I do have a few pics that may help to remind me of when I was in the moment and when the fishing was at its most enjoyable for me.

I am hopeful that the river fishing project gets the support it requires and that our youth are developed to help sustain the activity and indeed grow the base of followers.

Will I return?

Do fish swim?