AWDC ADVANCED WEAVE DESIGN AND CAD
Advance weave Documention
Textile design
Textile design
ADVANCED WEAVE DESIGN AND CAD
National Institute of Fashion Technology CHENNAI
Advance weave Documention
Mohammed safwan B-des Textile design
CONTENTS
Textile design
02
01
Advance weave Documention
Theory
Checks and stripes
Double cloth
04
Pin stripes
16
Interchange double cloth
04
Awning stripes
17
Wadded double cloth
05
Window pane
18
Stitched double cloth
05
Madras checks
19
Stitched wadded double cloth
06
Triple cloth
07
Textile design
03
04
Birds eye effect
28
Hounds tooth effect
30
Step effect
32
Hairline effect
34
Interchange double cloth ( stripes )
38
Interchange double cloth ( checks )
40
Wadded double cloth ( stripes )
42
Wadded double cloth ( checks )
44
Stitched wadded double cloth
46
Extra warp design
48 Advance weave Documention
Swatch simulations
Colour weave effect
004
Textile design
DOUBLE CLOTH
INTERCHANGE DOUBLE CLOTH
Double cloth is a descriptive term applied in weaving to fabrics produced by combining two single cloths into one. Each one of these single cloth is constructed with its own systems of warp and filling, the combination is effected in the loom interlacing some of the warp or filling threads of one cloth into the other cloth at certain intervals, thus fastening them. In double cloth face layer is lifted up while weaving the back layer.
Interchange double cloth is a weave where the warp order is reversed, so that the back layer and face layer gets interchanged.
Example Face Layer - Plain weave Back Layer - Plain weave x x F1
x
F2
x
F1
B1
F2
B2 B1
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
Advance weave Documention
x x
x
x
x
x
x
x x
x F1
x
B1
x
F2
x
x
B1
x
x
x
x
x
B1 F1
F2
x
x x
B2
x
B2
B2
x
F2
x
B1
x
F1 B1
F2
B2
B2
1.Dark colour on face and light colour on back
x x
x
x
x
B2
x
F2
x
B1
x B1 M2
B2
B1
B1
F2
x
B2
B2
x
F1
B2
Warp Ratio - 1:1 (F1B1F2B2) WeftRatio-1:1 (F1B1F2B 2)
M2
x
F1
F1
x
F2
B1
x F2
x
F1
B2
Warp Ratio - 2:1 (F1F2B1F1F2B2) Weft Ratio - 1:3 (F1B1B2B1F2B2B1B2) x
x
F1 B2
F1 B2
F2
2.Dark colour on back and light colour on face
Textile design
WADDED DOUBLE CLOTH
F
Here, Ratio = 4:1 Shafts = 4 shafts for ground weave and 8 shafts for extra warp x
B WADDED THREAD
F
Example
F
x
x
x
x
WADDED THREADS
x
F1
x
B1
In stitched double cloth, the two layers of fabric are connected where selected extra warp threads of one of them weave with the weft of the other, thereby forming a stitched effect.
F2
x
B1
F2
B2
B2
x
x x
x
x
x x x
STITCHED DOUBLE CLOTH
x
F1
x
x
B2
Ground weave
x x
x
x
x M2
x
x
x
x x
x
x
x
x x
x x x
x
x
x x x
Pattern using extra warp
Advance weave Documention
A wadded double cloth consists of a thick threads ( waddinng thread ) which is insterted in between the face and back layer. Used especially for coating, blankets, and upholstery
006
Textile design
STITCHED WADDED DOUBLE CLOTH
TRIPLE CLOTH
It involves the insertion of a vadded yarn as well as a stitched yarn after a constant interval while weaving the double cloth, sufficient enough to cover the vadded thread.
Triple cloth has three layers of fabric. Face layer, Middle layer and Back layer.
Example Here, Ratio = 4:1 Shafts = 4 shafts for ground weave and 8 shafts for extra warp x
x
x
x
WADDED THREADS
x
x x
x
x
x
x x
x
x x x
Advance weave Documention
x
x
Face Layer - Plain weave Middle Layer - Plain weave Back Layer - Plain weave
x
x
x
x
x x
x
x
x x F1
x
x x
Example
Warp Ratio - 1:1:1 (F1M1B1F2M2B2) Weft Ratio - 1:1:1 (F1M1B1F2M2B2)
x
x
While weaving the face layer the back layer and the middle layers are set to resting. While the middle layer is weaved the face layer is lifted up and the back layer is set resting. Finaly while weaving the back layer both the face layer and the middle layer is lifted up.
x x x
Pattern using extra warp
x
F2
x
F1 F2
M2
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x x
x
x
x
x
B1
B2 M2 F2
x
B1
x
M1
x F1
x
M1
M1
x
x
M2
F1 M1
B1
F2
M2
B2
B2 B1
B2
Textile design
Advance weave Documention
WEAVE POINT SIMULATIONS
008
Textile design
PLAIN WEAVE
Advance weave Documention
2/2 WEFT RIB
Textile design
2/2 WARP RIB
Advance weave Documention
BASKET WEAVE
010
Textile design
4/4 TWILL WEAVE
3/1 TWILL WEAVE
Advance weave Documention
(STRAIGHT DRAFTING)
Textile design
3/1 TWILL WEAVE (POINTED DRAFTING)
Advance weave Documention
SATIN WEAVE
012
Textile design
SATEEN
Advance weave Documention
MOCK LENO WEAVE
Textile design
HUCK A BACK
Advance weave Documention
HONEY COMB WEAVE
Textile design
Advance weave Documention
STRIPES AND CHECKS
016
Textile design
PIN STRIPES
Advance weave Documention
It is categorized very neatly by the type of line that runs across the fabric, the direction it runs, its thickness and the distance between the stripes. A pinstripe is extremely thin, only around 1/30th of an inch in width, giving the impression of a pin being repeatedly used to mark the surface of the fabric. One single warp yarn is used to create the continuous stripe pattern, with the distance between stripes being as little as 1/10th of an inch all the way up to a whole inch.
Textile design
AWNING STRIPES
Advance weave Documention
In the style of the protective canopies over windows and doors, awning stripes are equally-sized, fairly wide, vertical stripes of solid color typically a darker color against a white or light color. This bright, bold pattern is common in coastal, beach, and nautical decors.
018
Textile design
WINDOW PANE
Advance weave Documention
When a graph check contains larger squares, the pattern may be referred to as windowpane, referencing windows that have divided panes, which are rarer today than they once were.
Textile design
MADRAS CHECKS
Advance weave Documention
A lightweight, hand woven cotton fabric with a plaid, striped or checkered pattern that’s made with semi-permanent vegetable dyes known for bleeding to give it the soft, muted colors it’s known for, although madras are also commonly patterned with plaid, stripes, and checks. Originally, madras fabric came from the region of Madras, India. A textile can only be called madras if it comes from this Indian region. Madras is often used to make shirts and dresses.
Textile design
Advance weave Documention
COLOR AND WEAVE EFFECT
022
Textile design
COLOR AND WEAVE EFFECT The form or pattern produced by a weave in combination with the order in which two or more colours are used for warp and weft.
dark 2 medium & 2 light. Irregular effects are created with an arrangement of yarns that do not follow a regular pattern.
A variety of effects can be obtained with basic weaves such as plain, twill and satin weaves, using colored yarns to create complicated weaving structures. The effects can be classified as regular and irregular.
eg : 2 dark & 1 light, 1 dark & 3 light , etc. Regular effects are produced by a simple order of colored yarns in weaves, through which continuous line effects, hound’s tooth, birds eye, spot and hairline effect and so on.
Regular effects are created with arrangements of threads in a repeating manner. eg: 2 light & 2 dark , 4 light & 4 dark , 2
Advance weave Documention
8 ENDS DARK AND LIGHT PLAIN WEAVE
Textile design
8 ENDS DARK AND LIGHT TWILL WEAVE
Advance weave Documention
8 ENDS DARK AND LIGHT SATIN WEAVE
024
Textile design
4 ENDS DARK AND LIGHT PLAIN WEAVE
Advance weave Documention
4 ENDS DARK AND LIGHT SATIN WEAVE
Textile design
4 ENDS DARK AND LIGHT TWILL WEAVE
Advance weave Documention
2 ENDS DARK AND LIGHT SATIN WEAVE
026
Textile design
2 ENDS DARK AND LIGHT SPLAIN WEAVE
Advance weave Documention
2 ENDS DARK AND LIGHT TWILL WEAVE
Textile design
Advance weave Documention
TYPES OF COLOR AND WEAVE EFFECT
028
Textile design
BIRDS EYE EFFECT A birdseye is a spot-like micro-design for worsted wool. However, to obtain the round “eye” in the cloth, the sequence of colours is also fundamental. Without it, the eye wouldn’t be circular but square, which wouldn’t produce the same avian effect.
x
x
x
x
x
x x
x
x x
x
x x
2
x
1,5,6,7
x
1,5,6,7 1,5,6,7
x
4
x
x
x
x
3
x
x
x 1
x
1,5,6,7
x x
x
Advance weave Documention
x
x
1,5,6,7 1,5,6,7
x
1,5,6,7
x
x
x
5
6
7
1,5,6,7 8
Advance weave Documention
Textile design
030
Textile design
HOUNDS TOOTH EFFECT The most popular weave for color and weave effects is 2/2 twill. With a 4:4 coloring, arranged as in the following figure, it gives a distinctive and decorative pattern known as Hound’s tooth or dog’s tooth when a relatively fine construction gives a small, and as hound’s tooth when a coarser construction gives a larger pattern.
x x x
x x x
Advance weave Documention
2
x x x
x
3
x
x
x x
x
4
5
x
x
x
x
x 1
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x x 6
7
8
Advance weave Documention
Textile design
032
Textile design
STEP EFFECT A 1:1 order of coloring with a 2/2 twill weave (for finer effect) or 1:2 order of coloring with a twill weave (for finer effect) or 2:1 order of coloring with a twill 3/3 weave (for coarser effect) gives a useful effect known as step effect.
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
Advance weave Documention
1
2
3
x
4
5
x
x
x
x
x
6
7
8
Advance weave Documention
Textile design
034
Textile design
HAIRLINE EFFECT
Advance weave Documention
The form or pattern produced by a weave in combination with the order in which two or more colours are used for warp and weft.
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
7
8
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
1
2
5
6
3
4
Advance weave Documention
Textile design
Textile design
Advance weave Documention
SWATCHES SIMULATION
038
Textile design
SWATCH 01 - Interchange double cloth (stripes) Design Name:Interchange double cloth
x
x
x
x
x
x
(stripes)
x
Design Number: MS01
x
x
x
x
Reed space: 40’s
x
x
x
x
x
x
x x
x
Denting Order:
1
3,7
x
1,2,3,5,6,7 1,5
x
x
Warp Count: 2/20’s
x
x
3
4
5
1,3,4,5,7,8
x
3,7
x
1,2,3,5,6,7
x 2
1,3,4,5,7,8
x x
x
Weft Count: 2/20’s
x
1,5 6
7
8
Body: 2 in a dent selvedge: 4 in a dent Drafting Order: Block Drafting, Block A - 1,2,3,4 (Straight) Block B - 5,6,7,8 (Straight) Total number of ends : 232 Warp Pattern : 1 dark 1 light Weft Pattern : 1 dark 1 light yarn Number of shafts: 8 Fabric Width: 5”
Advance weave Documention
Graph:
D
x
x
L D
x
L
x
x
x
B2
D
x
F2
L
x
B1
D
F1
L
x x
x
x
x
B2
x
F2
x
B1
x
F1
F1
B1
F2
B2
B1
F1
B2
F2
L
D
L
D
D
L
D
L
Block A
Block B
Advance weave Documention
Textile design
040
Textile design
SWATCH 02 - Interchange double cloth (checks) Design Name:Interchange double cloth
x
x
x
x
x
x
Design Number: MS02
x
Reed space: 40’s
x
x
x
x
Warp Count: 2/20’s
x
x
x
x
x
x
x x
x
Body: 2 in a dent selvedge: 4 in a dent
1
3,7
x
1,2,3,5,6,7 1,5
x
x
Weft Count: 2/20’s
x
x
1,3,4,5,7,8
x
3,7
x
1,2,3,5,6,7
x 5
1,3,4,5,7,8
x x
x
Denting Order:
x
1,5
2
3
4
6
7
8
x
x
x
B2
D
x
F2
L
x
B1
D
x
F1
L
x
Drafting Order: Block Drafting, Block A - 1,2,3,4 (Straight) Block B - 5,6,7,8 (Straight)
D L
Denting order:
D
Body: 2 in a dent Selvedge: 4 in a dent
L
Total number of ends : 232
x
x x
x x
x
F2
x
B1 F1
F1
B2
F2
F1
B1
F2
B2
D
L
D
L
L
D
L
D
A
B2
x
B1
4 Block
Warp Pattern : 1 dark 1 light
x
3 Block
B
Weft Pattern : 1 dark 1 light yarn Number of shafts: 8
D
Fabric Width: 5”
L
Graph:
x
D
x
L
x
Advance weave Documention
F1 L
x x B1 D
x
B2
D
x
F2
L
x
B1
D
F1
L
F2 L
1 Block
A
x x
x
x
x
B2
x
F2
x
B1
x
F1
B2
B1
F1
B2
F2
D
D
L
D
L
2 Block
B
Advance weave Documention
Textile design
042
Textile design
SWATCH 03 - WADDED DOUBLE CLOTH ( STRIPES ) Design Name: Wadded double cloth Design Number: MS03 Reed space: 40’s Warp Count: 2/20’s Weft Count: 2/20’s Denting Order: Body: 2 in a dent selvedge: 4 in a dent Drafting Order: Straight Drafting (12345678 - 12345678) Denting order: Body: 2 in a dent Selvedge: 4 in a dent Total number of ends : 232
x
x
Warp Pattern : 10 dark 10 light
x
x
Fabric Width: 5”
Advance weave Documention
Graph:
x
x
x
x
Weft Pattern : 4 dark 1 wadded yarn Number of shafts: 8
x
x
x
x
x
x
x 1
x
1,3,5,7
x
x
3,7
x
1,2,3,5,6,7
x 2
3
4
5
1,3,4,5,7,8
1,5 6
7
8
Advance weave Documention
Textile design
044
Textile design
SWATCH 04 - WADDED DOUBLE CLOTH ( CHECKS ) Design Name:Interchange double cloth Design Number: MS04 Reed space: 40’s Warp Count: 2/20’s Weft Count: 2/20’s Denting Order: Body: 2 in a dent selvedge: 4 in a dent Drafting Order: Straight Drafting (12345678 - 12345678) Denting order: Body: 2 in a dent Selvedge: 4 in a dent Total number of ends : 232
x
x
Warp Pattern : 10 dark 10 light
x
x
Number of shafts: 8 Fabric Width: 5”
Advance weave Documention
Graph:
x
x
x
x
Weft Pattern : 4 dark 1 wadded yarn 4 light 1 wadded yarn
x
x
x
x
x
x
x 1
x
1,3,5,7
x
x
3,7
x
1,2,3,5,6,7
x 2
3
4
5
1,3,4,5,7,8
1,5 6
7
8
Advance weave Documention
Textile design
046
Textile design
SWATCH 05 - STITCHED WADDED DOUBLE CLOTH Design Name:Interchange double cloth
x
x
Design Number: MS05
x
x
Reed space: 40’s Warp Count: 2/20’s Weft Count: 2/20’s Denting Order:
x
x
1
1,2,3 1
2
3
4
4
x
3,5
x
2,6
x x 2
x
3
4
4,8 1,4,6
x
x
x
1
x
x
x
Total number of ends : 232
Advance weave Documention
x
x
Body: 2 in a dent Selvedge: 4 in a dent
Weft Pattern : 10 dark 1 waddded yarn
3
x
Denting order:
Warp Pattern : dark
x
x
4 shaft - ground weave
Fabric Width: 5”
1,3,4
x
Drafting Order: Straight Drafting
Number of shafts: 8
x
x
Body: 2 in a dent selvedge: 4 in a dent
8 shaft - extra warp
1,3
x
4,8 2,6
x
3,5 4
5
6
Extra warp design
7
8
Advance weave Documention
Textile design
048
Textile design
SWATCH 06 - EXTRA WARP DESIGN Design Name:Interchange double cloth Design Number: MS06 Reed space: 60’s Warp Count: 2/20’s Weft Count: 2/20’s Denting Order: 2 in adent Drafting Order: 1” plain weave
– straight drafting
0.5 “ extra warp
– straight drafting
1 “ plain weave
– straight drafting
1 “ extra warp
– pointed drafting
1 “ plain weave
– straight drafting
Ratio
– 4:1
Number of shafts: 24 Ground weave
– 4 shafts
.5 “ extra warp
– 10 shafts
1 “ extra warp
– 10 shafts
Total number of ends : 270 Fabric Width: 4.5” Warp Pattern : dark yarn Weft Pattern : dark yarn Advance weave Documention
Graph:
Advance weave Documention
Textile design
Advance weave Documention
Textile design
