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Island hopping
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Island hopping
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The humidity is down and energy levels are up. Get out there and explore Hong Kong’s islands.
Lamma
Known for its seafood, laidback lifestyle and friendly community, Lamma is like an island version of Sai Kung – minus the traffic. No wonder we feel right at home there.
Visitors arriving by ferry have a couple of options. Yung Shue Wan, in the northwest, is the main “town”, with alleyways bursting with trinket shops, restaurants, bars and organic shops. Try the famous Bookworm Cafe for all things healthy; flop on a couch, pull a book from the shelves, and while away the afternoon with a soy cappuccino and tofu burger. It’s a short walk to two beaches: Power Station Beach – home to the island’s infamous Full Moon Parties – and the busier Hung Shing Yeh Beach, with lifeguards.
Option two is Sok Kwu Wan, on the east coast, with its famous strip of seafood restaurants thronging with junk-trippers. Turn a blind eye to the old quarry on the other side of the bay and focus on the food. The large Rainbow Seafood Restaurant is a safe bet – it even runs a Fishermen’s Village tourist experience on fishing rafts out in the bay for a fun diversion. Or try old stalwart the Lamma Hilton for superb black-pepper prawns. After lunch, try the easy 10-minute trail across a narrow neck of land to pretty Lo Shing Beach on the west coast, or the 45-minute walk over the hill to Yung Shue Wan. More serious hikers might consider tackling Mount Stenhouse, Lamma’s highest peak at 353 metres.
Need to know: Catch a ferry from Central Pier 4 to either Yung Shue Wan or Sok Kwu Wan, (timetable at www.td.gov.hk) or a wooden kaido from Aberdeen (the last pier before the fish market) to Sok Kwu Wan. For timetables visit www.ferry.com.hk. For details of the Full Moon Parties and other goings on, visit www.lamma. com.hk. Bookworm Cafe, 79 Yung Shue Wan Main Street, 2982 4838. Rainbow Seafood Restaurant, 2982 8100. Lamma Hilton Shum Kee Restaurant, 2982 8290.
Po Toi Island
Po Toi is the southernmost island in Hong Kong waters, where foaming waves crash against rugged cliffs and hikers enjoy invigorating coastal trails with glorious views across the South China Sea.
This is a popular junk-trip destination, not least for its seafood restaurants; Ming Kee serves world-class black-pepper squid. The restaurant is built beachside on a huge wooden deck open on three sides. Enjoy the steamed scallops, calamari or just an ice cream while the kids frolic on the sand.
Old ruined buildings across the island are testament to the attractions of a booming city just across the water. Don’t miss Old Mo’s House, also known as the Ghost House, where Japanese soldiers allegedly stayed during the second world war, as well as Tin Hau Temple, Turtle Rock, Monk Rock and Palm Rock on the southern headland. It takes a leap of imagination to see the shapes.
Need to know: Catch a ferry from Stanley or Aberdeen piers. Visit www.traway.com.hk for timetables. Ming Kee Seafood Restaurant, 2849 7038.
day tripping
Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma's famous seafood strip.
At 147 square kilometres, Lantau is Hong Kong’s biggest island and one of its most diverse. There is, of course, Hong Kong Disneyland, the Big Buddha and the Ngong Ping 360 cable car. But there are also less commercial attractions such as Cheung Sha Beach, one of Hong Kong’s longest at almost 3km (if you ignore the low headland splitting the upper and lower beaches).
Rarely crowded, the beach is perfect for a relaxing day of sun, sand and sea. On the lower beach, Long Coast Seasports rents water-sports equipment for sailing, windsurfing, wakeboarding, surfing and kayaking. It even offers accommodation for a weekend getaway. Alternatively, rent an airconditioned teepee on a grassy plot at Palm Beach for a five-star camping adventure.
After sunset, check out the Stoep, a beachfront restaurant with tables on the sand that serves South African barbecue with a beautiful view – often of the resident herd of feral cows romping along the beach. It’s a nice way to close the day. And if you’ve been there, done that, we’ve heard good things about neighbouring Italian restaurant, Lantana. Great food and same amazing setting create a vibe that's hard to beat.
For something a bit more rural, Pui O Beach boasts hiking and mountain-biking trails, and the Treasure Island camp – a great place for structured outdoors activities for children. Or make a day of it by taking the Ngong Ping 360 cable car from Tung Chung to the Big Buddha, then a bus or taxi to Cheung Sha, Pui O or out to Tai O for stilted houses, temples and a colonial boutique hotel. Need to know: Catch a ferry from Central Pier 6 to Mui Wo and buses throughout the island. Or travel to Tung Chung by MTR or car (private vehicles need a permit to drive in southern Lantau) then catch a bus or cable car. Long Coast Seasports, www.longcoast.hk. Palm Beach, www.palmbeach.com.hk. Treasure Island, www.treasureislandhk.com. The Stoep, 32 Lower Cheung Sha Village, 2980 2699. Lantana, 40 Lower Cheung Sha Village, 5465 5511.
Cheung Sha Beach helps make a trip to Lantau worth the effort.
Also known as Grass Island, this is a peaceful outpost in Mirs Bay, half an hour from Wong Shek Pier in Sai Kung Country Park. Everything about it whispers “relax”, from the easy ferry ride to the springy turf that begs to be tested by bare toes. (Just mind the cowpats.) Even on the hottest day, there seems to be a breeze on Tap Mun – and the views are simply stunning.
Once a lively fishing village with a population of 2,000, today Tap Mun is a sleepy sort of place. It’s busier come the weekend, when day-trippers and overnight campers arrive and villagers return to open the little stores and seafood restaurants. From the pier, turn left and amble through the village, past the drying fish (a whiff of old Hong Kong) and hanging washing. Detour to the ornate Tin Hau Temple, which sits on top of a pirates’ cave – word is that 18thcentury fishermen, who knew a thing or two about wind, could tell the weather conditions on the other side of the island by the whistling sounds from the underground channels.
From here, there’s an hour-long paved walk around the southern half of the island, passing curiously balanced rocks and the local cemetery. If you’ve had the foresight to pack a kite, simply head uphill to Tap Mun’s grassy summit and let it fly.
Need to know: Take bus 94 or 96R (weekends) from Sai Kung to Wong Shek Pier in Sai Kung Country Park for the ferry to Tap Mun (every two hours from 8.30am to 6.30pm; www.traway. com.hk). If you miss it, haggle for an exhilarating speedboat trip across.
Jackie Peers Tranquil Tap Mun.
Dumbbell-shaped Cheung Chau is a quirky island with a bustling village occupying the low ground, a couple of lovely temples, the unique Bun Festival in May and loads of little restaurants serving up seafood fresh off the boats in the busy harbour. There’s good walking in the wild hills, a (disappointing) pirates’ cave, cracking beaches and a windsurfing centre run by the uncle of Lee Lai-shan, Hong Kong’s only Olympic gold medallist.
One of Hong Kong’s most popular local tourist destinations, Cheung Chau has an easy charm. Experience it by bicycle from one of the many hire places. There’s a wide, flat promenade running the length of the harbour front perfect for peddling or wend through the back alleys to the far side of the island – a horseshoe bay with a long golden beach, hotel, holiday homes and the windsurfing centre.
Hungry? Choose from one of the many seafood places near the harbour front. Steamed clams at sunset? Yes, please.
Need to know: Catch a ferry from Central Pier 5 for a 30-minute journey through the shipping lanes and past the rugged coastline of Lantau Island (timetables at www.nwff.com.hk).
Set around a rocky headland between two beaches, Shek O is an eccentric, laidback seaside town about as far from the city madness as it is possible to get on Hong Kong Island. It serves as the backdrop to many Canto-pop videos and movies such as the “King of Comedy”.
They’re drawn by vibrantly painted houses surrounded by shrubs and vines, sunkissed locals walking barefoot with surfboards tucked under their arms, hidden rasta bars and alfresco shack-like restaurants. The legendary Shek O Chinese and Thai is an all-time favourite; ignore the plastic chairs, tables and toilet-paper napkins and focus on delicious dishes and fresh seafood at dirt-cheap prices. Keep the Tsingtao flowing while the kids play mini golf two doors down or run amok at the beach less than a minute away.
But our favourite Shek O “secret” is Ben’s Back Beach Bar on the far side of the village, overlooking a second, smaller beach used by the Shek O sailing club. The casual bar is little more than a brick-lined hole in the wall, with a few stools and pictures of movie stars taking a break from all that filming. Ben’s is a chilled-out spot for a cold beer, some reggae and a chat with the locals away from the weekend madness of the main beach. We hear the Brooklyn Lager goes down particularly well.
Need to know: Take bus no.9 from Shau Kei Wan MTR. Shek O Chinese and Thai, 303 Shek O Village, 2809 4426. Ben’s Back Beach Bar, 273 Shek O Village, 2809 2268.
Shek O from the Dragon's Back trail. The Back Beach is on the left.
The entire Southside of Hong Kong has an island-holiday vibe. Make the most of it by booking a table at one of these iconic restaurants.
Vietnamese restaurant Saigon, on the first floor of Stanley’s historic Murray House, enjoys great views from its breezy colonnaded balcony.
The menu is wide-ranging, the staff attentive and the final bill a welcome surprise. Steamed scallops and asparagus with garlic and Asian herbs was a particular delight, washed down with a good Margaret River sauvignon blanc. The pineapple-stuffed pancakes are not to be missed.
For a touch of history and a fabulous Asianinspired buffet, Spices in Repulse Bay retains all the charm of its colonial past. The restaurant is on the site of the former Repulse Bay Hotel, a favourite with the likes of George Bernard Shaw, Noel Coward and assorted royals before it was demolished in 1982, then rebuilt a few years later as the replica The Repulse Bay.
Dinner begins with a smorgasbord of Asian appetizers, a selection of main course dishes and a dessert buffet. Best of all is its large terrace – perfect at this time of year.
Need to know: Saigon, 1/F, Murray House, Stanley. Call 2899 0999. Spices, 2292 2821, spicestrb@peninsula.com.
Spices in Repulse Bay is not to be missed.
