BIG DAY OUT

A southern gem

Rory Mackay explores the remote island of Po Toi

A rugged and windswept isle, Po Toi is fondly known by some locals as the ‘South Pole of Hong Kong’. It is a well frequented location for folk residing on the southside of Hong Kong Island, but for others that live further north, Po Toi is a relatively unknown quantity.

Littered with sculpted granite outcrops and sparse tree cover to obscure the horizon, hiking here is never dull with near constant ocean vistas to stimulate the senses. However, be warned; as with many scenic places in Hong Kong, if you have the opportunity to visit on a weekday then this is my absolute recommendation. On a weekday you will pretty much have the island to yourself, whereas on weekends be prepared to contend with queues for busy boats, trails and cafes.

Reaching Po Toi is a fairly straightforward proposition with daily ferries running from two locations throughout the week. From Aberdeen Pier, there is a return kaito service which operates on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays,

Sundays and public holidays and takes approximately one hour each way. Alternatively, on weekends and public holidays there is a shorter kaito service from the Stanley Blake Pier. The ferry trip flies by and in no time Po Toi comes into view. The kaito alights at a small pier next to the islands’ only village. It’s important to know that here lie the only amenities, so load up on food and drink before venturing elsewhere and there is no harm in taking a short stroll across to the beautifully situated Tin Hau temple nearby too.

For day trippers there are essentially two options when it comes to exploring the island’s footpaths; up over the hills, looping back along the coast or the more conservative option of making a return route following the shoreline. In the summer months, think carefully before hiking over the hills as the route has little to zero shade. The overland trail climbs one main hill then drops back down to the coast, taking an hour or two to negotiate. No matter which of the two routes is taken, one will arrive at Po Toi’s southern promontory where Po Toi Lighthouse is located. For me this is easily one of the most scenic places in Hong Kong, with views across the Pacific, dotted with various Chinese Islands forming the Wanshan archipelago. This lighthouse trail makes a short loop before rejoining the main coastal route.

Back in the village having worked up an appetite, Ming Kee Seafood on the main beach is the primary port of call to grab a feast. Although a handful of smaller restaurants further back into the village are also worth checking out.

Be sure to catch the final boat returning to Hong Kong Island, unless an overnight camp (double overnighter on weekdays) is the plan. If camping, the headland near Po Toi lighthouse is the best zone to pitch a tent, welcoming in sunsets, sunrises and the best of what breeze might be on offer.

In summary, Po Toi is a fantastic spot for a relaxing day trip or cute camping option. It’s charming fishing village and stunning headland walks will live long in the memory for those who make the voyage south.

Rory Mackay runs adventure company Wild Hong Kong. For more details visit

wildhongkong.com