BIG DAY OUT

Hong Kong from another perspective Rory Mackay discovers sprawling views of Kowloon and Hong Kong Island up Tate’s Cairn

For those who think The Peak is the most dramatic summit overlooking Victoria Harbour, think again. There are incredible vistas north of Kowloon.

It may not be as well known, but Tate’s Cairn and the adjacent Kowloon Peak is right up there in terms of grandeur. Conquer this rugged ridge and you will be rewarded with some of Hong Kong’s finest views. Feel the intense sprawl of Kowloon and enjoy the iconic backdrop of Hong Kong Island behind. Meanwhile, a gaze around the other side reveals Sai Kung Country Park, Sha Tin Valley and the expansive hills of the New Territories. Not only is being at the top incredible, but the journey to get there is really enjoyable.

Mid-afternoon is an ideal time to set off, ensuring cooler temperatures and sunset vistas from the summit ridge. The route up is easily accessed from Wong Tai Sin MTR Station. Find exit E and begin climbing up Sha Tin Pass Road. Stay on this road, which gradually rises above the tower blocks of Kowloon. After about 45 minutes of walking, you’ll intercept the Wilson Trail (Stage 4). Turn right and follow the road up towards 28 | SOUTHSIDE SOUTHSIDE

the ridgeline. Walk through the lush forests of Lion Rock Country Park before emerging upon more grassy terrain. Keep an eye out for wildlife along the way, in particular monkeys. If you want a much shorter stroll, upon reaching the junction between Fei Ngo Shan Road and Jat’s Incline, simply walk back down into Choi Hung via Jat’s Incline. Otherwise,

I recommend following Fei Ngo Shan Road to the mountain ridge where the Tate’s Cairn Weather Observatory is located.

Upon reaching the summit at 583 meters above sea level, the route emerges from undergrowth to reveal unrivaled panoramas of Kowloon and its surrounds. Pose for dramatic photos above large granite outcrops dating back to the Jurassic Period. Or take a perch, soaking up the relaxing vibes as the skies darken and the vibrant lights from the city below come to life. A quick dash up one of many small tracks running above the road reveals stunning natural vistas over Ma On Shan and the Sai Kung Country Parks—the contrast to Kowloon couldn’t be starker.

The return route down is fairly simple—if you want it to be.

Keep walking down Fei Ngo Shan Road to Choi Hung if you want to play it safe. Otherwise, there are a few awesome alternatives for onwards adventures which ultimately descend back to town. For longer walks, remain with the MacLehose or Wilson Trails as long as you wish. However my pick for the super intrepid is the ridge walk over Kowloon Peak, past “Suicide Cliff” and down the East Face to Clearwater Bay. Be forewarned that this is a very technical and dangerous option, only to be attempted by the most experienced of hikers. If in any doubt whatsoever then take a guide with you or—at the very least—do the route in reverse so you’re climbing the trickier parts.

The whole walk should take the best part of three to four hours. Be sure to bring a few snacks and plenty of fluids for consumption along the way as there are no facilities up there. If you are feeling lazy or want to shorten the duration, it is possible to cycle, drive or take a taxi up Fei Ngo Shan Road instead.

Tate’s Cairn is a classic year-round spot that anyone can have a crack at, yet it has detours that will keep even the most seasoned of hikers more than honest. Its enchanted forests below and spectacular vistas above will leave you wanting to revisit.

Rory Mackay runs adventure company Wild Hong Kong. For more details, visit

wildhongkong.com