Folk Food: An Ode to Maltese Comfort Food

AN ODE TO MALTESE COMFORT FOOD

Entering Chef Michael Diacono’s kitchen brought on all the sensory triggers of Christmas morning. The timpana lay out on the counter, the smell of baked pastry and bolognese wafted through the air, as the Ross fil-forn heated up in the oven. We’re invited into his home and kitchen, where the chef/restauranteur creates his three favourite, traditional Maltese recipes; Torta tal-Lampuki, Ross fil-Forn and that famous Timpana that his mother Rita Diacono, has the country dreaming of as Christmas approaches.

In typical chef fashion all the ‘mise en place’ is laid out on the counter ready to go, and as we chat, Chef MD prepares the Lampuki Pie. While cooking, he talks us through his relationship with food, the importance of using local produce where possible, and highlighting the best that Malta has to offer; from olives and asparagus, to local honey and salt.

“My son returns home tomorrow and he requested that”, Chef MD warns us as we practically drool over the Timpana. It sums up the significance of the dish for us Maltese quite perfectly… the sort of comfort meal every Maltese child (and adult) wishes to come home to!

Legendary Timpana

This recipe makes one large Timpana and serves from 8-10 people

Start to Finish 3hrs

Ingredients

1 medium sized aubergine Vegetable oil to fry 125g pork liver, chopped into 1cm cubes 500g mince pork 500g mince beef Salt and pepper 2 heaped tbsp Mutti Doppio Concentrato Tomato Paste 2 tins Mutti Polpa 2 tbsp sugar 4 fresh bay leaves

2 veal brains (optional but a must in my household) 700g rigatoni rigate Butter for greasing 800g puff pastry 100g grated Parmareggio Parmesan 3 eggs 120ml milk

Instructions:

Dice the aubergines, skin on, into small 2cm dice. Place them in a bowl of salted water and leave them to sit for 1 hour.

Drain the aubergines, rinse, and dry on a clean kitchen towel. Heat a good amount of oil in a large deep saucepan. Very carefully add the aubergines as they will splutter if still wet. Fry for about 8 minutes, stirring often till golden brown.

Add the liver. Stir fry for about 5 minutes to colour well before adding the minced beef and pork. Season well with salt and pepper. Cook till the meat is browned. Do not rush this part of the recipe as it is important for the meat to fry well. If need be, add a little more oil to help the process. In my mothers time they used to use beef lard which gave such a delicious flavour.

Add tomato paste and mix in well. Cook for a few minutes before adding the tinned tomatoes. Fill up one of the tins with water, then pour into the second tin to rinse them out. Add this water to the sauce. Add the sugar and bay leaves. Bring to a boil then reduce the heat to the lowest possible. Cover and simmer gently for 1 hour. Turn off the heat and cool. You can prepare this sauce up to two days before assembling the Timpana. Just keep it chilled in the fridge.

If using, boil the brains in salted water to which you have added a tsp of wine vinegar till cooked. This takes about 10 minutes. Drain them, leave to cool then cut into small pieces. Keep aside. We are now ready to assemble our Timpana.

Butter very well, a 22cm diameter and 15cm deep cake tin. (you may also use a springform tin which will make removal easier) It is important to grease well as otherwise you will find it difficult to turn out the Timpana later on. Place a round piece of baking paper that fits exactly on the bottom of the tin. Roll out the pastry on a floured surface into a large round shape till about 2mm thick then line the greased tin leaving the extra pastry hanging over for now. Be sure to have your sauce warm but not hot. Remove the bay leaves. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Cook the pasta for half the time indicated on the packet then drain well. Add a layer of pasta to the baking tinntill 1/3 of the way up. Spoon ragu all over using a tablespoon to help the sauce seep down. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan and add ½ the amount of brain. Add more pasta another of the way up and repeat with sauce, cheese and the rest of the brain if using. To the last layer of pasta just add sauce and cheese to top. Carefully cut away the extra pastry leaving just enough to be able to pull up a 4cm edge all around the top. We will use the extra pastry to cut out large leaf shapes to decorate the top.

In a separate bowl, mix the eggs with milk and season with salt and pepper, and pour the mixture slowly over the pasta giving it time to seep down before adding more. I find using a funnel helps when doing this.

Decorate the top with pastry leaves and flowers and brush the pastry with egg wash. Cover lightly with cling film and transfer to the fridge to set overnight.

When ready to cook, preheat the oven to 190C, 180C fan. Place the Timpana in the centre of the oven and bake for 90 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave for a good 10 minutes before running a long knife a few times around the edge to loosen from the tin.

Place a large plate upside down on top of the timpana. Bravely and quickly turn it over. The Timpana should glide out of the tin. Peel the baking paper away. Now you need to upturn the Timpana so that the decorated top is visible. This part has caused a few mishaps over the years, but not enough to not do this. Just do it quickly. Obviously the Timpana is then carried triumphantly into the dining room to be served from the side table in front of everybody.

Traditional Ross Fil-Forn

Serves 8 people –This recipe is the definition of Maltese comfort food.

Start to finish 2hrs

Ingredients:

60ml Monini Extra Virgin Olive Oil 15g butter 1 medium onion, peeled & finely chopped 500g pork shoulder, cut into 2cm cubes 200g minced pork 200g minced beef Salt and pepper 50ml dry white wine 2 tbsp Mutti Doppio Concentrato Tomato- Paste 1 tin Mutti Polpa 2 bay leaves 1 tbsp sugar 100g peas 4 eggs, lightly beaten 250ml milk 150g grated Parmareggio Parmesan 15g butter to grease baking dish 500g long grain rice

Instructions:

Heat the olive oil in a deep pot and add the butter. When this melts add the onion and pork cubes. Season lightly and stir fry on high flame to colour the meat. This should take a few minutes then use a slotted spoon to remove the onion and pork and transfer to a small bowl. In the same pot fry the minced beef and pork seasoned with some salt and pepper. Fry till the meat browns and starts to stick to the bottom of the pot. Return the onion and pork to the pot and pour in the wine. Leave to evaporate on high heat before adding the tomato paste. Stir in well and cook out for a few minutes before pouring in the tomato polpa. Fill up the tin with water, adding this to the pot. Add the bay leaves. When the sauce starts to boil, reduce the heat, cover and cook gently for 30 minutes. Taste the sauce and add sugar to regulate acidity. Add salt and pepper if needed. Add the peas. Cover and cook on for a further 30 minutes on very gentle heat. Beat the eggs with the milk and season. Add most of the grated cheese to this, keeping some for the top.

Preheat the oven to 180C. Grease a 30 by 24cm deep baking dish with the butter. Add the raw rice to the dish. Spoon in the sauce and mix. Carefully pour the egg mix into the dish and stir gently till everything is very well amalgamated. Top with remaining cheese and a sprinkle of freshly cracked pepper.

Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, uncovered till golden and set. Remove from the oven and leave to sit for 10 minutes before serving.

Serves 8 – Cooking time 2hrs

Ingredients:

3 tbsp Monini Extra Virgin Olive Oil 1 large red onion, peeled and finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 tomatoes, chopped 1 tbsp Mutti Doppio Concentrato Tomato Paste Chilli to taste 400g cooked spinach, drained 1 tsp mixed spice Salt and pepper 12 black olives, stoned and roughly chopped 1 tbsp capers 1 tbsp sultanas Finely chopped parsley 1 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint and basil 70g shelled walnuts 600g filleted lampuki, cut into 5cm chunks 800g shortcrust pastry 1 egg to glaze

Instructions: Heat the oil in a large pot. Add the onions and garlic and cook to soften then add the cauliflower florets. Stir fry gently for 5 minutes then add the chopped tomatoes and tomato paste. Cook for a few minutes and add a little chilli if using. Add the cooked spinach. Season with the mixed spice, salt and pepper. Mix everything well then remove from the heat. Now add the chopped olives, capers, sultanas, parsley, mint and walnuts. Check seasoning. Cool.

Roll out ¾ of your shortcrust pastry on a floured surface and use it to line a large pie dish. (approx 32cm) Fill up with half the filling then layer the raw lampuki over. Season the fish and drizzle with a little EVOO, then add the rest of the filling. Top the pie with the remaining pastry.. Glaze with egg wash and prick randomly with a fork.

Bake in a preheated oven at 190C for 40 minutes till the top is golden. Leave to rest for 10 mins before serving although the pie is good served cold too.