COLOUR

theroots

A fashion no-no turns fashion-forward

once the ugly duckling of the hair industry, visible regrowth has slowly changed its reputation and redefined itself as a chic and fashionable style statement. Over the past few years, more and more stylists have been experimenting with visible regrowth. Lesley Cantwell, of Montreal’s Odyssée Le Loft Salon & Spa, is one of them.

“Even though creating visible regrowths is not a new technique, it’s more and more wanted by clients,” says Cantwell. “Slowly, we’re stepping away from placing foils as close to the head as possible.”

The effect of allowing noticeable roots can be two-fold: it can create an edgy, punky look or a soft, natural feel. It all depends on the amount of contrast from root to tip. Jagoda Hall of Entrenous in London, Ontario, achieves contrast with both shade level and colour tone. Although she encourages experimentation, Hall suggests working within certain parameters.

“It’s all about making it look like it’s done on purpose,” explains Hall. “It should not look like a mistake.” In general, she suggests working with inch-and-a-half-long regrowth and, when aiming for the natural look, sticking within three shade levels of difference between root and tip. For a stronger look, Hall likes working with contrasting tones—cool on top and warm at the bottom or vice versa.

In terms of ideal clients, Cantwell suggests pitching the natural-looking version of the technique to highlight clients. “Regrowth allows colours to flow together, giving a grown-out feeling that works with certain shades,” she says.

Hall agrees. “It’s a challenge when a client with highlights pulls his or her hair back. They don’t want to see a stripy effect or really notice where the highlights start. Visible regrowth gives a softer look. It also adds depth.”

Both colourists advise trying the funky, high-contrast look on younger clients. Students on a budget will appreciate the fact that they can get longer wear from one hair colour session. You may also want to consider offering complimentary sessions to students. According to Hall, “A lot of students out there will let you have total creative freedom if you offer to colour their hair for free. This will give you the opportunity to practise your technique and get really playful.”—MA