PAST AND PRESENT

Past and

PRESENT

Combine old and new for a sensuous holiday look

By Pam Fulford

Makeup should be a definite statement”, says Melodie Reynolds, awardwinning makeup artist for La Biosthetique Paris. A Europe-based luxury line, La Biosthetique has recently released its autumn/winter cosmetics collection, “ Sense and Sensuality. With a contemporary look that incorporates elements of an Old World appeal, Sense and Sensuality provides a treasure trove of inspiration for holiday makeup. It is highly glamorous and very now, but still very soft and inviting. The collection’s colours are bold—blues, purples, berries, begonia pinks and siennas—but are creatively blended to soften the look. Eyes are undoubtedly the centre of attraction, with the outer corner of the eye highlighted above and below with eye shadow and eyeliner. Lips are enhanced and conditioned with lip gloss and lipsticks containing ginseng and vitamins A and E. The two new miniature nail enamels are perfectly matched to the trend makeup looks. What does Reynolds most like about the new line? “It’s very durable,” she says. “If I’m doing a wedding, the bride’s makeup can be done in the morning and still be fresh for an evening wedding. While lips often have to be retouched, the eyes and skin will still look perfect.” Clients dashing from holiday party to holiday party would also certainly benefit from the line’s durability. Reynolds suggests that estheticians encourage clients to fool around with the products. “Most people find it difficult to retail, but if the method is casual, everyone is more comfortable. It’s the ‘Hey, we’re girlfriends’ approach to sales. While they’re waiting for their next service, show them a tester kit and invite them to check out the new fall/winter colours. There’s no pressure, and it’s fun for your customers.” Marketing products is not just financially rewarding for your business, it’s also a bonus for clients. One suggestion Reynolds offers is a complimentary service that makes everyone happy. “After a facial, skin is very sensitive and can often look red. But La Biosthetique makeup contains vitamin E, so pigments will not irritate the skin. Why not provide a quick makeover so clients leave looking their very best?” Not only is this a fun promotion for your salon—particularly at this time of year—but it also encourages clients to come back and leaves them feeling their very best. According to Reynolds, there is one goal to aim for in our industry: total beauty. “Everything we do, from skin to hair to makeup, should have that in mind. Makeup is the finishing touch.” S

GLOSS GLOSSAMER AMER

Shimmering new trends in lip gloss this season Shimmering new trends in lip gloss this season

By Malumir R. Beavis

VOLUPTUOUS. SENSUAL. FEMININ OLUPTUOUS. SENSUAL. FEMININE. BOLD. Lip gloss speaks volumes about its wearer, and gone are the days of generic “it’s just gloss.” Rich, generic “it’s just gloss.” Rich, dynamic style in fashion, hair and makeup, along with the demand for fuller, celebrityinspired lips, has product developers creating innovative new lip glosses to indulge the desires of all women. inspired lips, has product developers creating innovative new lip glosses to indulge the desires of all women.

PLUMP IT UP

“Everyone wants voluptuous lips!” declares Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, executive vice-president and artistic director of OPI, who reveals that “gloss is a key product for making the lips appear full and voluptuous,” particularly with the trend of sparkly, shimmer and high- shine glosses. Cristina Ramirez, vice-president of Intercosmetics, agrees on the volumizing benefits of gloss, particularly a shade that contains shimmer or sparkle. Ramirez explains that the iridescent flecks fill in the crevices in the lips and then “play with the light so lips appear fuller without a tingling effect”—and without cosmetic surgery.

TRENDS WITH BENEFITS

Consumers also want a product that will provide additional perks. “Lip gloss with benefits” such as hydration and protection is a popular trend, says Bibo’s assistant brand manager, Lisa Franke. She advises that when introducing lip gloss to a client, its smart to emphasize “increasing the moisture for a softer, kissable lip.” Some products have other benefits, such as the RVB Trend & Basic line’s Shiny Lip Gloss, which contains antioxidants that help prevent the breakdown of collagen and elastin. “This product is not only beautiful, it is also beneficial. It is an anti-aging skin care product of good quality for the lips,” says Ramirez. Anna Conte, global Aveda Makeup purefessional, recommends lip gloss to the mature woman as well, as it creates a “very youthful, soft and fresh look” and “adds moisture, which is needed as the lips mature.” New formulations that allow gloss to last longer, such as the TIGI Girl Empowerment line are a definite plus for clients. “These glosses have a very long-lasting base,” says Robin Claassen, cosmetic coordinator and product developer for TIGI Linea, “so they won’t start fading right after you apply them.”

SPARKLE AND SHINE

Baroque-influenced colour choices such as “deep, rich reds and roses, cranberry and pomegranate” and feminine nudes are very now, explains Conte, who also remarks that with so many “different finishes, such as shimmer, sparkle, iridescent and see-through, there’s something for everyone!” Alicia Resnicoff, public relations manager for Essie, says Essie’s Gloss-e lip gloss “can be coordinated with your favourite Essie nail polish colour for a pulled-together and chic look” that doesn’t take much thought. Lip gloss can be worn by itself for a quick, polished look, but Weiss-Fischmann suggests layering gloss over lipstick for more punch. “Overlaying colour gives lips a more dimensional look and makes lip colour more personal and unique.” Weiss-Fischmann also reveals that because lip gloss is less pigmented than lipstick, clients can wear any shade of gloss without worrying whether it clashes with their skin tone, making gloss incredibly versatile. S

Haute Holidays

Cranberry Cocktail - 243

Mystic Mint - 246

Meet Me Under the Mistletoe - 170

Kissing by the Fire - 32

Pretty Pout

Lip enhancement techniques.

By Chantel Simmons

FULLER LIPS ARE THE HOTTEST ACCESSORY among celebrities and non-celebrities among celebrities and non-celebrities these days. For those looking for more than just the effect of a lip gloss, here’s what’s available. “Women are looking for lusher, fuller, sexier lips,” says Dr. Sheldon Pollack, dermatologist and medical director of the Toronto Cosmetic Skin Surgery Centre. “This has been a trend for the last decade, inspired by the fuller lips of trendsetters such as Angelina Jolie, but in the last five years, there’s been a shift toward a more natural look rather than an overdone, blown-out look.”

INJECTABLES

Ideal for the first-time lip plumper, injectables plump up the lips quickly and effectively (with just a shot of pain). “All injectables have a similar result—more or less—depending on the amount of material used,” says Dr. Pollack. “Hyaluronic acid products such as Restylane and Juvéderm provide excellent result” and last six to nine months. “My favourite product at the moment is Evolence, a new long-lasting injectable collagen designed to last at least a year.”

IMPLANTS

For a more permanent look, soft, flexible tubes, such as Gore-Tex of Advanta, can be implanted into the lips. Results are permanent, but the implant can be removed anytime. “I definitely prefer injectables to Gore-Tex,” says Dr. Pollack, “since the latter can feel and look unnatural.”

WRINKLE-REDUCERS

Lines that appear around the lips may be caused by smoking, pouting and pursing the lips. To prevent these lines, quit smoking, increase water intake and avoid sipping beverages through a straw. To reduce already visible lines, injectables such as Restylane Fine Lines can be injected into the fine lines as well as the edge of the lip where the red and white portions of the lip meet, “giving lips a sexy roll and preventing lipstick lines,” says Dr. Pollack. Results last about six months. Botox can also be injected into the lip to weaken the muscles responsible for pouting. S

Chantel Simmons is the editor-in-chief of Elevate magazine, covering anti-aging, enhancement and wellness.