9 minute read
Food Magazine May / June 2023
SW660
ROAD TRIP
TRURO
Jo Rees charged the EV and hit a portion of the South West 660 – the West Country's version of Scotland's North Coast 500 – to discover the best places to eat and stay. Here's where to visit (and charge your vehicle) for an electrifyingly good gourmet getaway between Appledore and St Ives
The north coast of Devon and Cornwall is the adventurous side of the peninsula, best known for beaches where waves that have barrelled across the Atlantic reach their final destination. From the longboard-friendly breaks of north Devon to the turquoise waters of Newquay and beyond, it's one long stretch of open vistas and big skies. And, if you know where to go, you can experience incredible places to eat and stay that are just as breathtaking as the natural beauty of this coastal playground.
Hitting the road
We started a three‑day trip fully charged via a decent flat white from 1 The Coffee Cabin in Appledore. The pretty fishing village is a joy to mosey around, especially its arty shops (cool finds abound) and stores selling the work of local makers. Pick up supplies for your trip at Johns of Appledore or 2 Marshford Organic Foods where, during the summer, it's also possible to camp.
Ten minutes' drive away is the village of Woolsery (also called Woolfardisworthy ‑ don't let the names confuse), which is home to the fabulous 3 The Farmers Arms dining pub and its new high‑end cottages and suites. The pub is a special find for new‑wave British cooking crafted from own‑grown and foraged produce. For food to‑go, swing by its sister business
Woolsery Fish & Chips where exceptional fish and fries are accompanied by artisan‑style salt and vinegar, and sides such as lemon and black pepper
Nearby charging: Churchfields Car Park, Appledore, EX39 1RL. 3 x chargers (43kW Type 2 | 50kW CHadeMo | 50kW CCS).
Nearby charging: The Coach and Horses, Horns Cross, EX39 5DH (four miles away). 1 x charger (22kW Type 2). 3
Strong Adolphos, Cornwall
Border patrol
Back on the Atlantic Highway you'll cross the border into the Cornish town of Bude. No journey to (or even near) the seaside spot is complete without a visit to 4 Electric Bakery. Crowned best cafe in the Food Reader Awards 2022, it delivers elite‑level flat whites and a counter of creative pastries that render resistance futile. For more substantial eats, check out 5 Potters The restaurant has been the go‑to for contemporary fine dining in Bude, but has recently pivoted to embrace a more casual piscatorial approach. Visit for fish and chips done in style.
Nearby charging: Bude Tourist Information Centre, Bude, EX23 8LE. 3 x chargers (43kW Type 2 | 50kW CHadeMo | 50kW CCS).
The next foodie stop of note is to be found in nearby Boscastle. 6 The Rocket Store is an enchanting destination for small‑plate dishes served in a hut‑like setting. Tables are extremely limited so booking is essential. If it's on the menu, we recommend the Thai beef larb.
Nearby charging: Churchfield Car Park, Camelford, PL32 9PA (six miles away). 3 x chargers (43kW Type 2 | 50kW CCS | 50kW CCS).
Heading down the coast from Boscastle, discerning diners will want to hang a right to Port Isaac where renowned chef Nathan Outlaw keeps two restaurants. 7 Outlaw's New Road is the setting for a daily‑changing and unfussy (but flawless) seafood set‑menu that reflects the morning's haul. Nearby, 8 Outlaw's Fish Kitchen sees 20 seats squeezed into a 15th‑century fisherman's cottage where small plates and carefully paired wines create a charming experience. As of this summer, guests can also stay at 9 Outlaw's Coastal Retreats which deliver luxury self‑catered accommodation.
Nearby charging: Wadebridge Higher Trenant Office, Wadebridge, PL27 6TW (8 miles away). 2 x chargers (22kW Type 2).
The nerve centre
This next section of the route is awash with standout places to eat and stay. Just seven miles down the coast is contemporary‑meets‑deco 10 St Moritz Hotel where, on summer days, visitors can dip and dine alfresco in the outdoor pool and its casual Seaside restaurant (there's a decent indoor restaurant too). A little further on are the delights of Rock, where the smart surrounds of 11 The St Enodoc Hotel are complemented by the cooking of its talented exec chef Guy Owen.
The Atlantic Highway itself offers some pit stops worthy of proper attention. Speciality coffee, decent cafe food and leafy houseplants for sale make 12 St Kew Farmshop & Cafe worth a pause, while the 15th‑century 13 St Kew Inn is a great lunch destination where Great British Menu chef Andrew Tuck turns out quality dishes which can be scoffed fireside or in the country garden.
Another roadside gem awaits just beyond Wadebridge: Hawksfield is a posh pull‑over where Swedish‑inspired fika is the order of the day at 14 Strong Adolfos. If you're grabbing a flattie to‑go, with a plan to explore its neighbouring upscale stores, pair it with the best cinnamon bun you'll ever encounter (made by Da Bara Bakery) from 15 The Arc deli and try not to leave crumbs on the wetsuits in Finisterre.
The best places to stay nearby are 16 Bedruthan and its sister hotel 17 Scarlet. Both are exceptional finds for high‑quality cheffery and contemporary inside/outside natural spa experiences. Bedruthan is more of a family destination than its grown‑ups‑only sibling, but out of school holidays is unlikely to be packed out with kids.
Nearby charging: Bedruthan 6 x chargers (Tesla 22kW Type 2 | Universal 22kW Type 2 | Universal 7kW Type 1 and 2). Scarlet: 4 x chargers (Telsa 22kW Type 2 | Universal 22kW Type 2 | Universal 7kW Type 1 and 2).
Nearby charging: St Moritz Hotel, Wadebridge, PL27 6SD. 4 x chargers (20kW Type 2).
A mile or two down the coast is
18 Watergate Bay Hotel. When it launched 15 years ago, the eponymous hotel was a pioneer of Cornwall's contemporary reincarnation and has maintained its rep for watersport adventures in design‑led surroundings. Its headline restaurant Zacry's is effortlessly casual but culinarily on‑point, and bolstered by the recent addition of a group of Indian chefs. The scheme was cooked up by exec chef Neil Haydock and colleagues as a solution to the recruitment crisis, and has injected the modern Cornish menu with a dash of Indian flair.
19 Emily Scott Food joined the Watergate crew when the restaurant moved into the building below the hotel (previously Fifteen Cornwall), providing another quality dining opportunity on the beach.
Surf central
Those heading out of Watergate Bay after breakfast and looking for their second caffeine hit of the day should swing by 20 Island in Newquay, another speciality coffee shop from the Strong Adolfos team.
Cornwall's surfing capital might be all boards and beach bars but it's also home to some classy hotels. 21 The Headland is a grand old place that's been given a modern makeover inside and out. A recent £10 million investment in its aquatic facilities has seen it ranked in The Week's top ten hotel swimming pools in the world.
Nearby
Heading in the direction of St Ives it's worth making a detour back to the coast to visit 22 Driftwood Spars. The 17th‑century inn on the beach enjoys a great reputation for its beers (many brewed on‑site), pub food and four‑star guestrooms, and is named after the shipwreck beams (spars) used to make the building. If the weather's good, snack alfresco at its shipping container cafe The Crib Shack.
Nearby charging: Watergate Bay Hotel, TR8 4AA. 10 x chargers (7.4kW Type 2).
charging: The Headland, TR7 1EW (1 x charger (Type 2 | 7kW) and Albany Road Car park, Newquay, TR7 2NQ. 2 x chargers (43kW Type 2 | 50kW CCS).
Destination dining
The final destination, St Ives, offers a number of notable places to eat and stay. Top of the list should be lunch or dinner at 23 Porthminster Beach Cafe, which sits right on the shore. The Trencherman's Award‑winning restaurant ticks all the boxes for coastal dining: laid‑back artsy interior, exceptional seafood and on‑point service. Tip: the perfectly cooked dover sole with caper butter, Tenderstem and triple cooked chips with garlic and rosemary is bang on the money.
Other distractions in the small town include a visit to 24 Tate St Ives and a coffee on the beach from 25 Yallah's hole in the wall. 26 The Yellow Canary Cafe is a good shout too.
For a resort‑style stay out of the bustle of town, 27 Una St Ives is a fresh find where crisp, contemporary lodges cluster round a spa, pool, gym and decent restaurant (Una Kitchen). It's a great base to retreat to after a day on the beach, its huge semi‑tropical plants creating a luscious landscape and privacy from other guests – even when you're in your private hot tub.
Similarly, 28 Carbis Bay Estate has everything on‑site – including a pearly sand beach. Dine at Ugly Butterfly Restaurant & Bar for creative fine dining with wow‑factor or head downstairs to experience the culinary drama of Walter's On The Beach, where theatrical cocktails and desserts served in glass bowls swirling with smoke are paired with moody lighting and a grown‑up vibe. In summer, it's rather special to dine outdoors on the generous decking with festoon lighting, the rushing waves almost reaching your table before they're sucked back out to sea.
Find more things to do and places to stay on this route at southwest660.com, and get more dining and high‑end coffee shop recommendations in the region from trenchermans-guide.com and the latest Independent Coffee Guide (indycoffee.guide).
Note: EV charging provision changes all the time, and sometimes chargers are out of order, so it's worth checking on Zap‑Map or calling hotels ahead of your visit.
Nearby charging: Carbis Bay Estate, St Ives, TR26 2NP. 2 x chargers (Tesla Type 2).
