Susy Atkins' Reds

SANTA SERAFFA GAVI DEL COMUNE DI GAVI 2020, 12.5%, £13.50

This premium Gavi, made from the Cortese grape in north-west Italy, is appealingly perfumed with floral and citrus notes, and super-fresh on the palate. There's an elegant and subtle complexity – think lime and elderflower mingled with light tropical fruit.

It's made from the 45-year-old vines of a single 18-hectare estate planted on chalky soils near the Ligurian coast. All of which adds up to a highquality dry Italian white, delicious on its own and fabulous with delicate white fish, prawns or oysters, and seafood risotto.

CA’ DI PONTI GRILLO

2021, 13%, £7.50

There are some intriguing herbal hints to this ripe and brightly flavoured Sicilian white made from one of the island’s best-loved varieties, Grillo. Peach and orange juiciness meet mild aniseed and fennel with a little nuttiness. It's a young and zesty wine with fresh acidity; a lip-smacking aperitif and terrific with white-fish dishes like pan-fried hake or grilled vegetables such as barbecued pepper and onion kebabs. Great value too.

GIRIBALDI CAJ BARBERA

D’ALBA SUPERIORE 2019, 14%, £14.99

Giribaldi is a wonderful familyowned winery which has seen three generations at the helm and, for many years, has made its wine organically. Their fine example of Barbera is from a small single vineyard called Caj in Alba, nearly 400m above sea level.

It's brimming with lively red fruit like cherries and mulberries, with a dash of cassis and damson in the mix. Eight months in oak barrels has left a light trace of spice. Lifted and tangy on the finish, it makes a superb partner for rare steak, or try it with pan-fried duck breast.

RUMINAT PRIMITIVO 2020, TERRE DE CHIETI, 14%, £15

This ripe and beguiling Primitivo is made by an award-winning cooperative in the Abruzzo region of central-eastern Italy which practises meticulous biodynamic winemaking (a stricter and more wide-ranging version of organic production). Its violet and plum aroma is really distinctive, and there are sweetly ripe blackberries, crème de cassis and prunes on the palate, with a rounded and smooth texture. Try it with a lamb tagine or hearty lasagne.

Susy is a wine writer, presenter and author. She writes a regular weekly wine column for the Telegraph, is wine editor of Delicious magazine and drinks expert for Food Magazine