PARK CITY LIFE

LIFE ON THE OTHER SIDE

PHOTO ADAM FINKLE

PROSPECTS ARE LOOKING GOOD

BY TONY GILL

CASEY CRAWFORD OPENED PROSPECT, one of Main Street’s longest continually operating businesses, in 2009. She’s seen Park City’s ebbs and flows, dips and recoveries and is still standing as a curator of Old Town’s culture as Main Street roars back to life. Prospect sells an eclectic mixture of men’s and women’s apparel, accessories and footwear that wouldn’t seem out of place in the trendier parts of NYC or LA. It shares space with a traditional barber shop in the back, Billy’s Barber Shop, and an outstanding coffee shop up top, Pink Elephant. It’s an elegant reminder of the creativity Main Street has always known and promises more of in the future. 509 Main St., 435-655-3250, blog.prospect509main.com

Park City Song Summit founder Ben Anderson

DON’T SAY THE ‘F’ WORD

Park City Song Summit is not just another festival

BY TONY GILL

WHAT IS THE PARK CITY SONG SUMMIT?

The Park City Song Summit (PCSS) is no ordinary music festival. “It’s kind of like South By Southwest meets a TED Talk,” says PCSS founder Ben Anderson. More than 100 artists—each of them invited to be an artist-in-residence for the entire week from Sept. 8–12—will participate in a variety of events ranging from spirited concerts at venues like Deer Valley’s Snow Park Amphitheater and the Eccles Center to intimate Labs held in small venues on Main Street. A unique combination of live performances and discussion of craft build an edifice to the songwriting experience for audiences to connect with.

THE MAN WITH THE PLAN

“My dad was a gospel recording artist, so music’s always been part of my family,” says Anderson. He spent three decades working as a trial lawyer but hasn’t stopped performing live since he was in sixth grade, most recently with the Grateful Dead tribute band Aiko. After retiring from the courtroom, Anderson quickly found his way back to music. “Music adds dimension to our existence. I couldn’t stay away.”

The seeds of the PCSS were sowed when Anderson organized the Park City Songwriter Festival in 2019, blooming into this year’s event. “I love the history of music, how the shoulders we’ve all stood on from the most primal rhythm create notes and harmonies that affect the soul. Just like a song begins to take form, we took influence from people and places that inspire us to create something truly different.”

PHOTO ANGELA HOWARD

PHOTOS: (KELLER WILLIAMS & FRED ARMISEN) COURTESY PARK CITY SONG SUMMIT; (FATHER JOHN MISTY) EMMA TILLMAN BEYOND THE SONGS

The Labs set PCSS apart from the ordinary. Some Labs are Masterclass-style discussions about songwriting. “It’s about the process and what makes songwriters tick. How do you take things from the muse we call life and distill it into three minutes we’ll keep coming back to forever?” Anderson explains. Others are unscripted conversations about mental health and addiction issues plaguing the music industry with artists like Langhorne Slim.

There are even visits with polymaths like SNL alum Fred Armisen and Olympic Gold Medalist Shaun White as they discuss creativity within music and outside pursuits and the complexities of fame. The Labs are unique opportunities to get inside the music and minds of artists like never before.

THE ARTISTS

The lineup is a curated list of talented artists who support the event’s interactive concept. “We’re musical omnivores, so we wanted the lineup to represent the fabric of the music community with inclusivity and a variety of genres,” says Anderson. Highlights include performances from the likes of Father John Misty, Mavis Staples, Keller Williams’ Grateful Gospel, Iron & Wine, Fruit Bats, Josh Ritter, Andrew Bird and dozens more. See a full list of who’s playing live tunes and talking songwriting on the PCSS website.

SUPPORTING THE CAUSE

“Lots of people in the music industry are suffering,” says Anderson. “Being on the road, isolated and away from family is difficult, especially when it’s overlaid with mental health and addiction issues. We want to make the conversation around that less taboo and bring it into the open, so it’s easier for people to find the help they need.”

In addition to approaching the topic within some Labs, PCSS aims to achieve the goal by partnering with local and national nonprofit organizations addressing mental health, addiction recovery and suicide prevention issues.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Keller Williams’ Grateful Gospel; Fred Armisen; Father John Misty

TICKET OPTIONS

“There are so many different types of people who are music lovers. It was really important to us PCSS had something accessible for each one,’ Anderson says.

People who want to do it all can buy festival passes starting at $1,500

There are also ala carte tickets. Individual event tickets are available as well, with more affordable options including entry to premier shows at Snow Park and Eccles Center starting at just $50. Tickets can be purchased on the event website. parkcitysongsummit.com

THEY’VE GOT THE MEATS

At Chop Shop, food is craft not commodity

BY TONY GILL

I’VE BEEN A CHEF on the food side of things for a long time, so I always figured if something was messed up on the butchery side I could cook my way out of it,” says John Courtney, owner of Chop Shop Park City. Those who haven’t spent the better part of two decades working in high-end restaurants alongside celebrity chefs, like Courtney has, aren’t so lucky. So Courtney opened Chop Shop Park City to lend a hand.

To catch culinary lightning in a bottle, it helps to start with the best ingredients. Courtney goes to great lengths sourcing everything at Chop Shop Park City. “It’s a three-headed monster with the butchery, the cheese and charcuterie...I try to get things locally whenever possible. There are so many wonderful artisans producing great craft items in the area, and I love being able to get their product on the shelf,” Courtney says.

The lamb in the butcher shop always comes from Utah-based suppliers. The beef comes from Creekstone Farms in Kansas. While not in Utah, Creekstone is a highly regarded chef-forward supplier (and the supplier for the famous Franklin Barbecue in Austin, Texas). “It’s a wonderful facility,” Courtney says. “From a lot of farmers, you get commodity-level products because their animals are treated like food. Creekstone is different. I’ve eaten the grains the animals eat, touched the earth they walk on. They’re cared for, and that comes through in the end product.”

Courtney could wax poetic about the virtues of various high-quality meats all day, but he built Chop Shop Park City to be more than a butchery. “There’s an exciting trend with new blood coming to town with unique expressions and concepts for cuisine. We wanted to be part of that,” Courtney explains. To that end, the dine-in and carry-out options at Chop Shop include sandwiches made from craft ingredients and a Detroitstyle, wood-fired pizza. Detroit pizza is typically cheddar focused, but Courtney had the artisans at Gold Creek Farms in Kamas create a custom mozzarella with an altered hydration content for “a more exacting crunch.” Chop Shop doesn’t skimp on the details.

“I couldn’t be more excited to bring this concept to Kimball Junction,” says Courtney. “For both locals and visitors, I think there’s a great energy around changing cuisine here.” Pick up some of the finest ingredients and cook your way out of them—Courtney is always happy to share some tips—or have the pros at Chop Shop take the guesswork out of it. 1177 Center Dr., 435-604-0244, chopshopparkcity.com

PHOTO ADAM FINKLE

HIDEOUT GOES ON FOREVER

Voters approve controversial annexation, but legal battles continue

BY TONY GILL

THE BATTLE OVER HIDEOUT’S ANNEXATION of Summit County open space in Richardson Flat still awaits resolution. It began way back in March 2020 when the Utah Legislature passed a short-lived law, H.B. 359, allowing a municipality to annex unincorporated land across county lines. The public—reviled by the secretive process surrounding a law clearly meant to serve a specific private interest—revolted, leading to the H.B. 359’s repeal, but not before Hideout’s council approved the annexation prior to the repeal taking effect. The council’s approval included a provision for a public vote, placing the annexation’s future in the hands of Hideout residents. The voters had their say on June 22, overwhelmingly approving the annexation by a two-to-one margin. Alas, the annexation was on. Or was it? On the very same day of the aforementioned vote, 4th District Court judge Jennifer Brown sided with Summit County in its lawsuit against Hideout, invalidating the annexation and damping anticipation of the long-awaited ballot count. Alas, the annexation was off. Or was it? The ruling is being appealed, meaning after more than a year of debate, grandstanding, finger pointing and general hand wringing, an ongoing court battle will ultimately decide the annexation’s fate. Somehow society was able to weather a once-in-a-century pandemic with a mass

WHAT’S THIS

LAWSUIT ALL vaccination program utilizing never-before-seen medical technology to neutralize the spread of a novel virus more

ABOUT? quickly than we’ve been able to decide if a town with 358 eligible voters can annex open space next to a superfund

Judge Brown’s ruling site nobody wants to deal with. It’s Theatre of the Absurd. invalidated Hideout’s The end is the beginning, and time is a flat circle. annexation on the grounds What’s really at stake? Ostensibly 350 acres of land of a state code requiring new destined for life as open space and low-density ordinances to be posted in development if Summit County retains control or 600 public places or papers of homes and 100,000 square feet of business space including record prior to becoming law. Hideout’s town hall and community center if courts decide

Hideout does not dispute the annexation is valid. Underneath it all, perhaps the fight the fact they failed to post represents the existential quandary for a community the ordinance until after walking the knife’s edge between progress and chaos. the deadline to do so had Is anything left to debate? The sordid process which passed. The case will now brought us here was ill considered. The dichotomies of head to an appellate court, development vs. preservation and progress vs. stagnation which will determine whether have engulfed every corner of the community along the the district court decision Wasatch Back. Yesterday’s Treasure Hill is today’s Hideout was just or a misapplication is tomorrow’s Highland Flats. This issue will be decided in of the facts to state law. a courtroom, far beyond the reach of the community’s voices. However it ends—if it ever does—one thing is certain: plenty of people will be unhappy about it.

THE

OF SLC

ILLUSTRATION SCOTT PETERSON

11 Not-so Secret Salt Lake Secrets

BY JEREMY PUGH AND MARY BROWN MALOUF

SALT LAKE IS A CITY BUILT on secrets. Its origin tale is wrapped up with the “Bible 2.0” Exodus of Brigham Young and his followers, the Latter-day Saints, members of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (officially) or the Mormons (colloquially and historically). The Mormons first arrived here in the Great Salt Lake Valley on July 24, 1847, after a long and insanely dangerous trek from Nauvoo, Ill. Why? Well. The Mormons fled Nauvoo after a mob murdered their founder Joseph Smith outside of the jail in Carthage, Ill. But why stop here? This is just two years before the 1849 gold rush in California. Why not carry on to the coast and get in on the action? Brigham wanted no part of it. His plan was to find a home for the Saints far away from, well, anywhere. And back then, while the blank-ish spot on the map that would eventually become Utah was not nowhere, it was also, paradoxically, not anywhere. Technically it was Mexican territory, but the Mexican-American War was about to get underway and much bigger dogs than Brigham and his rag-tag band of Mormons were squaring off for a fight. Brigham wanted his followers to be left alone to practice the LDS faith and, yep it gets weird, to establish a short-lived autonomous nation called the Kingdom of Deseret (which got as far as developing its own language and currency, BTW). It is, as we say around here, a heck of a story. In the late 1800s, federal troops, sent here to put the kibosh on this whole Kingdom thing, discovered rich veins of copper and silver and paved the way for the age of the silver barons and more outside influence. The east-west railroad brought an influx of laborers who would add diversity to the mix, and Utah’s admission to the United

States, in 1896, brought even more changes. Still, Utah remained apart with a dominant religion, which often dictated politics and individual conscience.

The point is: this whole delicious frontier mix of history made an atmosphere perfect for the cultivation of mushroom-like secrets.

WHAT

An abandoned Hawaiian settlement in Utah’s Skull Valley WHERE

From Salt Lake City travel west on I-80 to exit 77. Travel south of Utah Highway 196 for 15 miles. A large sign marks the dirt road that leads to the cemetery.

SECRET NO.1

The Lost Hawaiian Colony

In 1845, the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints sent its first missionaries to the South Pacific Island of Tahiti. The Mormons weren’t alone. It was a period of zealous Christian proselytizing in the Pacific Islands. But the LDS missionaries had remarkable success in the South Pacific. A good number of those converted were from the Hawaiian Islands, then known as the Sandwich Islands, and many of the fresh converts made the perilous journey to Salt Lake City to dwell in the shadow of Temple Square.

In 1879, LDS Church leaders established a colony for Hawaiian immigrants to Utah in Skull Valley, an ominously named and arid place in the western desert near what is today the military proving ground and chemical weapons disposal base Dugway. The settlement was named Iosepa, the Hawaiian word for Joseph. It was named after Mormon founder Joseph Smith and his descendant, LDS church president Joseph F. Smith, who went to Hawaii on a church mission in 1854.

It’s hard to imagine Hawaiians coming from such a lush and green island ever feeling quite at home in Skull Valley. But religious zeal (and ample support from Salt Lake City) sustained them in a hardscrabble existence where they farmed, ranched cattle and raised pigs.

By 1917, the church abandoned the experiment and many of the residents returned to their native islands, drawn back to help work on the LDS Temple being built in Laie on the island of Oahu. At its height, nearly 228 Pacific Islanders lived in Iosepa. The site is a ghost town today on the National Register of Historic Places. There are informational markers, remnants of some structures and a forlorn graveyard that continues to bear testimony to the harsh conditions in Iosepa.

Although it is not stated officially, irrational fear of leprosy may have been behind the far-flung location of Iosepa. The site is 75 miles from Salt Lake City, an arduous journey in the days of horse-drawn carts. Although three leprosy cases were documented during Iosepa’s lifespan, the fears were largely unfounded.

SECRET NO.2

Hail Princess Alice

In 1882, Salt Lake City completed work on its first major park, Liberty Park. The park was built in the grand tradition of New York’s Central Park and London’s Hyde Park, albeit on a much, much smaller scale. In that tradition, Salt Lake City’s grand park had to have among its attractions a zoo. Animals exotic and, more often, not-so-exotic filled the menagerie. But what zoo is complete, at least in the minds of Salt Lake City residents at the turn of the 20th century, without an elephant? In 1916, Salt Lake City school children gathered up nickels, dimes and pennies in a fundraising drive and purchased an Asian elephant from a traveling circus for what was then the enormous sum of $3,250. Her name was Princess Alice. Princess Alice was a favorite, drawing visitors from around the region. But Alice didn’t take well to captivity. She became known for her daring escapes, rampaging around the surrounding Liberty Wells neighborhood, knocking down fences, and hiding from searchers for hours. The repeated escapes, although charming, alarmed neighbors and prompted the zoo to relocate In 1918, she gave birth to a to its current location at the male elephant zookeepers mouth of Emigration Canyon named Prince Utah, the first in 1931. Local author and elephant ever born in Utah. He died a year later after his mother rolled over on him. historian Linda Sillitoe memorialized Princess Alice’s exploits in her work of fiction The Thieves of Summer, which she set during her own childhood in Salt Lake City around the time Princess Alice and the zoo moved to Emigration Canyon. A sculpture in relief of Princess Alice’s visage was included in the elephant enclosure and remains there today. Even with the new digs, in 1947, she once again escaped, rampaging around the zoo grounds. In 1953, at the age of 69, Alice was euthanized after a prolonged illness. WHAT A sculpture bearing the likeness of Utah’s first elephant, Princess Alice WHERE The elephant house at Utah’s Hogle Zoo, 2600 E. Sunnyside Ave.

SECRET NO.3

The Exile of Jean Baptiste

In the late 1850s, a man named Jean Baptiste drifted into Salt Lake City. The immigrant of unknown descent found a job as the city’s gravedigger. In 1862, a flap over the body of a local troublemaker named Moroni Clawson led investigators to Baptiste. They discovered he had been stealing clothes and jewelry from the bodies he was charged with burying. In all, Baptiste was thought to have desecrated more than 300 graves.

Although his offense was grave (pun intended), it didn’t call for hanging or life imprisonment, so territorial authorities devised an especially cruel punishment—exile. Baptiste was rowed out to Fremont Island, a small cay used intermittently for sheep ranching, and deposited on the shore, where he was essentially left to die on the harsh, exposed island. Weeks later, authorities checked the island to find Baptiste had escaped. A small shack on the island had been torn down, leading to theories that he’d built himself a raft. Years later, in the 1890s, hunters found a skeleton with leg irons, and some say this was Baptiste (although it’s not known if he was shackled when he was left on Fremont Island). WHAT The island where graverobber Jean Baptiste was exiled WHERE Fremont Island, Great Salt Lake viewed from Antelope State Park. Antelope Island is likely as close as you are going to get to Fremont Island. Antelope Island is filled with hiking trails and, contrary to its name, a herd of bison.

SECRET NO.4 WHAT

Gilgal Garden WHERE

749 E. 500 South, SLC

The Sphinx of Salt Lake

It was a legend among Salt Lake teenagers in the ’70s and ’80s: a bizarre sculpture garden located in the middle of Salt Lake with a menagerie of odd Mormonthemed statues and rock art installations. What adventurous teen wouldn’t want to sneak into a strange yard filled with bizarre carvings featuring ominous Biblical verses set in the stones, and (why not?) a sphinx-like creature bearing the visage of LDS Church founder Joseph Smith? The works sprang from the mind of outsider artist Thomas Battersby Child Jr., a Mormon bishop, local businessman and stonemason. Child tinkered relentlessly in the backyard of his childhood home building his Gilgal (a word that means “circle of stones” in Hebrew and is a place name in the Book of Mormon). Child was self-taught; he made it all up as he went along, and his creations are excellent examples of outsider art. The sculptures are large and imposing, and a walk through the garden is a tour through Child’s eclectic fascinations with masonry and his musings on the relationship of Mormonism with the ancient world. The show pony is the Sphynx-Smith, but be sure to note Child’s self-portrait, a man constructed entirely of bricks.

After Child’s death, the garden became an oddity— almost an urban legend—and, while the mystique of hopping the fence to see the place was a dare-worthy part of life for SLC teens, the artworks fell prey to the elements and vandalism. In the late 1990s, the property was put up for sale, and a coalition of private citizens, public entities and nonprofit groups worked to preserve the site.

SECRET NO.5

Utah’s ‘Black Dahlia’

The victim is the young wife of a prominent and wealthy physician. The story has suitors, insinuated affairs, missing jewels and even an Arabian prince. It sounds like an Agatha Christie novel, but it all happened in Salt Lake City. Just after midnight on February 22, 1930, the brutally disfigured body of Dorothy Dexter Moormeister, 32, was found on the western edge of Salt Lake City. She had been repeatedly run over with her own car. Dorothy’s husband was Dr. Frank Moormeister, a physician and abortionist for the local brothels. Dr. Moormeister was much older than his wife, who had a wild social life and actively solicited the attention of other men.

One of these men, Charles Peter, was the prime suspect in her death. He had allegedly urged Dorothy to divorce her husband and fleece him in the settlement. Additionally, the doctor had loaned WHAT

Peter a large sum of money and had, as partial payment, taken from Peter a valuable pendant. The pendant was among the jewelry missing from Dorothy’s body. Another suitor, Prince Farid XI, who had met the Moormeisters during an excursion to Paris, was rumored to have been in Salt Lake City at the time. Afterward, there were letters discovered intimating that Dorothy had designs to run away with him.

On the night of her murder, Dorothy was seen entering the Hotel Utah (now the Joseph Smith Memorial Building) at around 6 p.m. She left a short time later with two men and another woman. Dr. Moormeister claimed to have gone out to see a movie alone during this time period. The autopsy revealed traces of absinthe in Dorothy’s stomach. A search also revealed that she had been hiding money in various safety deposit boxes around town and had drafted some recent changes in her will, but she had not signed them officially.

However, despite all the intrigue and a massive effort by county investigators—they even brought in a private detective who was considered popularly as the “Sherlock Holmes” of his time—the killer was never brought to justice.

The last known whereabouts of Dorthy Moormeister WHERE The Hotel Utah (Now the Joseph Smith Memorial

Building), 15 E. South Temple, SLC PHOTOS: (BLACK DAHLIA) COURTESY OF SPECIAL COLLECTION, J. WILLARD MARRIOTT LIBRARY, UNIVERSITY OF UTAH; (SPHINX) JEREMY PUGH

PHOTO JEREMY PUGH Mayor Ted Wilson turned to leaders at the LDS Church to call up volunteers; however, the need was greatest on Sunday morning, a day where LDS Church members are not supposed to work. Gordon B. Hinkley, who would eventually become LDS President but was then a counselor in the First Presidency, famously said, “Well, the ox is in the mire,” and gave the order to cancel Sunday services so that members could join the sandbagging crews that were fighting to save Salt Lake City.

SECRET NO.6

The State Street River

WHAT

In the spring of 1983, two very snowy seasons culminated in a crisis for Salt Lake City. The first signs of danger appeared in late April of that year when a 40-foot hole opened up in Emigration Canyon Road to the east of the city. According to Neil Stack of Salt Lake City Flood Control, “the massive crater was created when water from the surrounding hillsides seeped deep into the ground until it stopped behind a natural sandstone table and an impenetrable layer of soil under the road.”

With May came rains that quickly melted lowerelevation snowpack and added more moisture to high-elevation snow. Flooding and mudslides in the foothills around Salt Lake City rang the alarm bells. Salt Lake City Mayor Ted Wilson held a meeting to discuss the potential of flooding. They proposed deliberately flooding parts of the city to accommodate what was fast

becoming a perfect storm of snowmelt. On May 26, 1983, Salt Lake City declared an emergency and decided to dike 1300 South in order to route floodwaters from Red Butte, Emigration, and Parleys Canyons to the Jordan River. The Salt Lake Tribune headlines that day read, “Mayor Calls Emergency, As Waters Flood Street.” The story reported that “the mayor, after considering options and the impact of allowing Mountain Dell A marker remembering Reservoir in Parleys Canyon to the flood of 1983 overflow, made the proclamation of WHERE emergency in order to begin 1324 S. State St., immediate sandbagging.” Water SLC released from the eastern canyons began flowing west toward the Jordan River down 1300 South, past Derks Field, the minor league baseball field (now Smith’s Ballpark). A bridge over the “river” was built for fans to attend the Salt Lake Trappers opening day game. But there was more to come. On May 29, City Creek, to the north of the city, breached its banks and started to flood downtown SLC. More than 6,000 volunteers (some estimates say 10,000) sandbagged State Street to the 1300 South diversion into the Jordan River. Mayor Wilson called the effort “the biggest street festival ever.” The two rivers, especially the State Street River, became a sensation in the days that followed. Bridges were built over State Street and thousands of valley residents came downtown to marvel at the sight and walk along the “riverside.” There are accounts of kayakers and tubers plying the waters and half-serious fishermen dipping lines into the rushing waters.

PHOTO STUART GRAVES

SECRET NO.7

Our Lady of 200 South

There is one thing everyone knows who knows anything about Salt Lake City: It’s the world (probably galactic) headquarters of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, the all-American religion founded in 1830 by Joseph Smith in, Fayette, N.Y. And although only about half of Salt Lake County’s population is LDS, the capital city is still dominated by Temple Square, the religion’s center, and by buildings that house the administration of the faith. So, it could be a bit disconcerting to some to drive down 200 South in downtown Salt Lake City and see the ultimate Roman Catholic

WHAT image: a wall-sized 44- by 22-foot mural

The Madonna of the Virgin Mary, complete with a of Salt Lake City giant flaming sacred heart.

WHERE Two famous muralists, El Mac and 158 E. 200 South, Retna, used 80 cans of spray paint to SLC create the image on the side of what’s known as the old Guthrie Bicycle building in 2010. Why? Corey Bullough, the owner of FICE, the urban fashion store that now occupies the building, told the Salt Lake Tribune the idea occurred to him after a stroll through nearby Temple Square. Bullough was reared Mormon and said he noticed the square paid homage to many men—Joseph Smith, Brigham Young, various LDS prophets, God and Jesus. And being a woke young fashionista, he decided the city streets needed a woman. He commissioned the painting, and after 18 months of considering the design the artists came up with an image of a brown-skinned Madonna revealing an anatomically correct heart. The Madonna was a hit with everyone. SECRET NO.8

Mormon Hooch

Although the product known as Valley Tan is a brand of Park City’s High West Distillery, the term “Valley Tan” has a historical connection from long before distilling was reintroduced to the Beehive State in 2007 by High West Distillery. The term was first applied to leather made in the Utah Territory but came to apply to just about anything made by the Mormon settlers, including the whiskey that was sold to passing wagon trains headed for the coast. In 1853, publisher Kirk Anderson gave the name to his newspaper, an alternative to the dominant Mormon press. In the first issue, Anderson explained the odd title, writing, “‘Valley Tan’ was first applied to the leather made in this Territory in contradistinction to the imported article from the States: it gradually began to Another noted explorer, Sir Richard apply to every article Burton, a British expert on religious made or places and the first white man to manufactured or enter Mecca, also visited Utah, where produced in the he met the notorious “Avenging Territory, and means Angel,” Porter Rockwell. Rockwell was in the strictest sense Home Manufacturers Brigham Young’s infamous strongman and protector. According to Burton, when they met, “Rockwell…pulled out (sic), until it has a dollar and sent it to the neighboring entered and become distillery for a bottle of Valley Tan...We an indispensable were asked to join him in a ‘squar’ word in our Utah drink, which means spirits without vernacular; and it water. Of these, we had at least four, will yet add a new which, however, did not shake Mr. word to the English Rockwell’s nerve, and then he sent out language.” Despite for more, meanwhile telling us of his Anderson’s attempt at last adventure.” coining a frontier term for DIY (and starting a newspaper, The Valley Tan, which existed for a mere two years) the term Valley Tan is now applied most often to whiskey.

The local hooch, distilled from wheat and potatoes, was sold at the Mormon outfitters, ZCMI, in competition with Gentile, or non-Mormon, store owners. The booze didn’t get very good reviews. In his book Roughing It, Mark Twain famously wrote, “The exclusive Mormon refresher; Valley Tan is a kind of whiskey or first cousin to it; is of Mormon invention and manufactured only in Utah. Tradition says it is made of imported fire and brimstone.”

PHOTO JEREMY PUGH

SECRET NO.9

Inside the Pyramid

In 1975 Claude “Corky” Nowell had a revelation from otherworldly intelligent beings who told him the true nature of the universe. He immediately changed his name to Amon Ra (though he still goes by Corky). The newly anointed Summum Bonum Amon Ra founded the Summum religion. “Summum” is a variation on the Latin word “summus,” meaning “highest,” and “bonum,” which means “good.” Amon and Ra, of course, are names of the ancient Egyptian sun god. Summum has its own stories of creation and learning, which sound somewhat like New

Age and Gnostic beliefs blended with Philip K. Dick sci-fi stories laced with a smattering of various ancient religions. Instead of The Ten Commandments, Summum holds to “The Seven Aphorisms.” In 1975, the church went to the U.S. Supreme Court, maintaining that if the Ten Commandments had a place in the city of Pleasant Grove’s city park, so did the Aphorisms. The WHAT Court sided with Pleasant The Summum Pyramid Grove. WHERE Summum worship takes 707 W. Genesee Ave., place inside a pyramid on Salt SLC Lake’s west side (which is zoned not as a church but as a winery, because of the beverage used in church rituals). The Pyramidchurch-winery was built between 1977 and 1979 and concentrates on meditation. The goal is “spiritual psychokinesis,” the ability to move objects using mental effort. Think spoon-bending. Oh, also, there are mummies. Summum’s rituals include the practice of mummification in funeral rites. Unlike the Egyptians, who mummified Pharaohs and buried them with treasure and provisions to prepare them to journey to the afterlife, Summum mummy makers (called “thanatogeneticists”) believe the process preserves the cells so that the body can be cloned in the future.

Summum’s mummification specialists (again, thanatogeneticists,) are available to perform the rite on your own dearly departed loved one or even pet. Yes, you can preserve your beloved pet in the hopes that Fido or Fluffy might be cloned one day. Visit summum.us.

SECRET NO.10

Crispin Glover’s Handprints

WHAT

A set of handprints from Crispin Glover and Howard Hesseman stars of the Trent Harris film Rubin & Ed.

WHERE

The Tower Theatre, 876 E. 900 South, SLC

Local filmmaker Trent Harris is known for his odd, left-field looks at Utah history and culture. Perhaps his biggest film is the Utah cult classic Rubin & Ed, released in 1992 and starring Crispin Glover and Howard Hesseman. At the time Hesseman was known for his iconic role as Dr. Johnny Fever in TV’s WKRP in Cincinnati and his turn on the sitcom Head of the Class. Glover, however, was best known for his role as George McFly in the blockbuster Back to the Future films. Glover’s role in Rubin & Ed was a strange choice for the actor, who was something of a get for Harris. In the film, Glover portrays Rubin, a depressed oddball who lives with his mother and is looking for a friend to help him bury his cat, which he has been storing in the family freezer. He finds common cause with Hesseman’s Ed, a washed-up salesman who is desperately recruiting clients for a multi-level marketing real estate seminar. The duo journeys into the Utah desert to lay Rubin’s beloved cat Simon to rest. It’s a weird and very funny movie.

The relative fame of the film’s stars prompted the Tower Theatre to hold a world premiere gala, one of the few in the theater’s history. The event included a ceremony in front of the art house cinema on what Harris calls “the lawn of fame” to enshrine Glover’s and Hesseman’s hand- and footprints. The film, Harris’ largest commercial release, didn’t make too many waves outside of Utah, but locals adore the strange buddy flick for its sideways humor and backdrops of familiar Utah settings in both Salt Lake City and Goblin Valley State Park.

PHOTO TRENT HARRIS To promote the film, Crispin Glover infamously appeared in character (and costume) on The Late Show with David Letterman and nearly kicked the irascible talk show host in the head with Ruben’s signature high platform shoes.

PHOTO SNOWBIRD RESORT

SECRET NO.11 The Swiss Connection

Back in the 1970s, skiing was much more a European sport than an American one, so American resort owners borrowed many of the accouterments and affectations of their Continental forebears. A-Frame, Swiss-style chalets, Bavarian flourishes and food such as sauerkraut and bratwurst helped legitimize the fledgling sport in America at now-venerable resorts like Alta and Sun Valley, which had long been hot spots for the jet-set but were still catching on with everyday Americans.

Snowbird, in Utah’s Little Cottonwood Canyon, was built in the 1970s. Today it’s one of the world’s most famous and celebrated ski and snowboard areas, known for its iconic tram, steep terrain and ample snowfall. It was the brainchild of Alta Ski Patroller Ted Johnson and a Texas oilman named Dick Bass. To put it mildly, Bass was a world traveler. In 1985, he became the first man to climb the highest peaks on the world’s seven continents. In planning Snowbird, Bass and Johnson visited ski areas and resorts around the globe to glean ideas for his new resort. One of his most inspirational stops was at Zermatt, the famous ski WHAT

A diplomatic token in the form of a chunk of the Matterhorn

WHERE

9600 S. Little Cottonwood Canyon Rd., Snowbird

village in the Swiss Alps known for its access to the Matterhorn.

Bass met with then-Mayor of Zermatt, Amaday Perry, with a diplomatic proposal. Zermatt and Snowbird would be sister cities (although Snowbird isn’t so much a city as a ski area base). Zermatt’s mayor agreed and had an actual piece of the Matterhorn chiseled off the famed peak and sent to Utah to seal the deal. Upon its arrival, a celebration was held on the tram deck in the thenbrand-new Snowbird Center. Snowbird’s former Director of Village Operations, Jerry Giles, who worked at Snowbird since the early days, said it was “a great occasion. All the Swiss dignitaries came over, and we put on a big dinner, with raclette and Swiss chocolate. Of course, schnapps was the big drink of the night.” Times change, of course. Swiss mayors come and go, and the importance of the Snowbird-Swiss Connection has faded into obscurity. But the large chunk of the Matterhorn remains prominently located at Snowbird’s base as a testament to the early days of skiing at the ’Bird and its international aspirations.

About the Book

Secret Salt Lake City opens a window into the weird, the bizarre and obscure secrets of Salt Lake, that are often hiding in plain sight. Utah’s one-of-akind state origin tale offers a rich backdrop of frontier grit, conflict and the tension between secular and religious realms that has generated a culture (and counter-culture) with unique manifestations and curious relics.

Did you know that the Mormons created their own alphabet and that it’s hidden in your computer? What do the strange symbols on the LDS Temple mean? Why is there a chunk of the Matterhorn enshrined at a Utah ski resort? What famed pachyderm does the sculpture on SLC’s Hogle Zoo’s elephant house depict? How did SLC police capture the infamous serial killer Ted Bundy? And what is the origin of Iosepa, a Hawaiian ghost town in the desert? Authors Jeremy Pugh and Mary Brown Malouf reveal these mysteries and more to pull back the curtain on the secrets of Salt Lake to enrich your life in the Beehive State (which is another secret to be revealed). Available at The King’s English Bookshop and Ken Sanders Rare Books and online at 100thingsslc.square.site.

The 50-mile long Going-To-The-Sun Road

PHOTO MONTANA OFFICE OF TOURISM AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT THE FANNY PACK FELT A LITTLE SILLY when I strapped it around my waist. The manufacturer calls it a

“trail runner neoprene bear spray holster,” but we all know it’s a fanny pack. If the hipster bonafides of the belted pouch weren’t bad enough, the bear spray within felt overzealous. Carrying it on a trail run felt like packing a harpoon for a shark attack while surfing. Nevertheless, the mortification that during a good grizzly mauling my final thoughts would be of the protective spray I’d left in the car in the name of vanity was too much to ignore. Even with the odds thoroughly stacked in my favor, I was happy to be packing some atomized pepper-spiced deterrent once I realized I hadn’t seen anyone in miles and that eerie sensation of being completely alone deep in the woods set in. Big Sky was big country, and getting away from it all was as easy as setting off into the wilderness.

I needn’t have worried about bears that day, just the ability of my legs to finish jogging the ambitious—for me, anyway—route from Big Sky Resort (50 Big Sky Resort Rd., Big Sky, 800-548-4486, bigskyresort.com) to the Big Sky Meadow Village via the Mountain to Meadow Trail. The stunning trail is popular among mountain bikers, hikers and trail runners, but on this weekday afternoon as drizzling rain transformed into early season snowfall, solitude was all around.

Montana can seem like a lifetime away. It’s an untamed place with landscapes grand enough to make you feel as insignificant as one of those dry flies getting eaten by a trout on the Gallatin River. But it’s only five and a half hours from SLC to Big Sky and less than 60 additional minutes to the comparative metropolis of Bozeman. Time to hit the road. We’re heading to Big Sky Country.

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT

The Gallatin River cuts a picturesque canyon through Bozeman and Big Sky. The river was named for Albert Gallatin, the Secretary of the Treasury during two presidencies and, notably, the Lewis and Clark expedition. I don’t know if the guy was a big fly fisherman or what, but today, anglers from around the world come to experience the blue-ribbon fisheries on the river bearing his name. Gallatin opposed the forced relocation of Native Americans, at least, so I suppose the moniker is less ignominious than some others coined during western expansion.

The evolution of Big Sky and Bozeman mirrors much of the American West as trapping and prospecting ultimately yielded to tourism and recreation. Where late 1800s loggers rode down the river atop felled trees to prevent jams, tourists now load into rafts to tackle the infamous “Mad Mile,” an extended stretch of class IV rapids. The aforementioned anglers cast along some of the same stretches, immortalized in A River Runs Through It. Up in the hills, a real estate developer purchased 100,000 acres of timberland and, after some land swaps with the U.S. Forest Service, created one of

Fly fishing on the Gallatin River

the world’s most expensive and exclusive ski and golf communities, the Yellowstone Club. Despite softened edges, Montana is still wild country with untapped potential for exploration. Just don’t forget the bear spray.

WHAT TO DO

The ideal starting point for exploring an area is by learning about its history and the people who came before. Stop in at the Gallatin History Museum (317 Main St., Bozeman, 406-522-8122, gallatinhistorymuseum.org), which is housed in the former county jail and has a wealth of artifacts from Southwest Montana’s past. These range from the curiously morbid— preserved jail cells and hanging gallows—to the scholarly—newspapers, maps and a 20,000-strong photo archive.

After studying the past, it’s time to enjoy the present. Don’t overthink it. Head out on the water for some world-class fly fishing with Gallatin River Guides (47430 Gallatin Rd., Big Sky, 406-995-2290, montanaflyfishing.com). It is some of the best in the world with high catch rates for brook and brown trout. Even if the fish aren’t snapping at your flies with the frequency you’d prefer, it’s tough to have a bad day in such a picturesque setting. There’s a reason they made a whole movie centered around Brad Pitt casting on these waters.

After finishing up on the water, head to Big Sky Resort to explore the high country. The center of the resort, Lone Peak, is a towering laccolith that dominates the skyline at 11,166 feet. People of all ages and abilities can reach the summit on the half-day Lone Peak Expedition, where safari-style vehicles drive guests up the mountain’s flanks before they’re whisked to the top in the Lone Peak Tram. Those who prefer using sweat equity to reach Montana’s highest scenic overlook can hike up the Summit Climb trail, while the adrenaline seekers can enjoy the resort’s lift-served mountain bike trails.

Southwestern Montana is more than an evolved relic of western expansion; it’s become the creative capital of the state. Visit the Bozeman Art Museum (2612 W. Main St., 406-570-1419, bozemanartmuseum.com) to experience artwork representing the traditions, history and future of its people and cultures. Still, we’ve only scratched the surface. There’s that little-known National Park—widely regarded as the world’s first— called Yellowstone just down the road.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

A good day in the mountains around Big Sky starts with a solid caffeine kick. Caliber Coffee Roasters (80 Snowy Mountain Circle, Big Sky, 406-995-7311), has some great local roasts and breakfast options—it’s hard to go wrong with a chicken-fried steak in the morning. After some outdoor adventure, grab a different type of brew at the Lone Peak Brewery (48 Market Place, Big Sky 406-995-3939, lonepeakbrewery.com). Lone Peak has a huge selection of 14 beers on tap, and, with the best burgers in Big Sky, it’s more than just a spot for suds. In the evening, check out Olive B’s Big Sky Bistro (151 Center Ln., Big Sky, 406-995-3355, olivebsbigskybistro.com). The menu has mountain classics like rocky mountain elk, lamb chops and a wild game Bolognese, but, with the chef’s New England roots, also features seafood like crab cakes and an absolutely decadent lobster mac and cheese.

When in Bozeman, enjoy the budding culinary culture. Whistle Pig Korean (25 N. Willson Ave., Bozeman, 406-404-1224, whistlepigkorean.com) is home to authentic Korean dishes. The Dak Bulgogi with marinated chicken and the Kimchi Jjigae with tofu and pork stew is delicious, but there are also wonderful vegetarian options including a high-protein Bibimbap. Feast Raw Bar & Bistro (270 W. Kagy Blvd., Bozeman, 406-577-2377, feastbozeman.com) is an upscale eatery offering locally sourced meats—try the bison carpaccio—and sustainably sourced fresh seafood—the daily ceviche and house poke are outstanding. Meanwhile, Colombo’s Pizza and Pasta (1003 W. College St., Bozeman, 406-5875544, colombospizzaandpasta.com) is an old-school institution that’s been serving up authentic Italian cuisine for 26 years and is better than ever.

WHERE TO STAY

You don’t get the full Big Sky Country experience by staying in some cookie-cutter, pseudo-luxury mountain lodge. Bodhi Farms (13624 S. Cottonwood Rd., Bozeman, 406-201-1324, bodhi-farms.com) is a unique lodging option allowing visitors to be part of the outdoors in complete comfort. The boutique eco-resort and permaculture farm is situated on Cottonwood Creek just south of downtown Bozeman with nine glamping tipis, a spa tipi, a wood-fired sauna, yoga classes and farm activities, all with incredible views of the Gallatin mountains.

While the name is hyperbolic, Hardscrabble Ranch (15660 Brackett Creek Rd., 406-600-2227, hardscrabbleranch.com) is another great option for people looking to immerse themselves in the Montana

PHOTO MONTANA OFFICE OF TOURISM AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

mountains. The property has luxurious canvas glamping tents set alongside the scenic Brackett Creek, all featuring handcrafted beds and furniture along with decks to soak in the views of nearby Ross Peak. Hardscrabble also features two lodges with a hip, minimalist aesthetic. The rooms and shared spaces have modern mountain décor and wooden art installations for a quirky mountain vibe.

Built in 1919 and originally called the Halfway Inn because it marked the midpoint between Bozeman and West Yellowstone, Rainbow Ranch (42950 Gallatin Rd., Gallatin Gateway, 406-995-4132, rainbowranchbigsky.com) is a Montana classic. The lodge is set on the banks of the Gallatin River with a rustic yet elegant construction that is right at home in Big Sky. The infinity pool hot tub offers incredible views and is a perfect spot for a relaxing soak at the end of a long day exploring the mountains and rivers in Southwest Montana.

ROAD TRIP 1:

GLACIER COUNTRY TRIP

Start: Columbia Falls / End: Eureka

Things are bigger in Glacier Country. From the scale of the mountains in Glacier National Park to the limitless recreation opportunities in Whitefish, enjoy the expansive wilderness and vibrant outdoor activities unique to Montana.

1. RAFTING THE GREAT BEAR WILDERNESS

Paddle outrageously scenic whitewater on the Flathead River with Glacier Guides. Eco-conscious trips in Glacier National Park are an unforgettable way to experience pristine wilderness. Spend the night at Two Medicine Campground and refuel at Two Medicine Grill with some huckleberry pie.

2. TRAVEL THE GOINGTO-THE-SUN ROAD

The 50-mile long Going-ToThe-Sun Road bisects Glacier National Park, crossing the continental divide at Logan Pass. Open only in summer, the scenic byway passes by glacial lakes, through cedar forests and into alpine tundra. It’s a remarkable place for a road bike ride or a gorgeous drive. There’s a free shuttle for hikers to try the 10mile roundtrip Siyeh Pass Trail.

FROM LEFT: Kootenai Falls Swinging Bridg; biking Going-To-The Sun Road; elk meatloaf from Tupelo Grille

3. EXPLORE WHITEFISH

The famed resort town is built along a seven-mile-long glacial lake with Whitefish Mountain Resort looming high above. Rent a mountain bike to explore the town’s network of singletrack trails or take a SUP or kayak from Paddlefish

Sports out to Whitefish

City Beach. Sample classic

Montana fare like the Elk Meatloaf at Tupelo Grille.

4. CLIMB AT STONE HILL NEAR EUREKA

Eureka is tucked into the far northwest corner of Montana, just six miles from the Canadian border. In this remote area near the Kootenai National Forest is the Stone Hill Climbing Area, where quartzite crags have more than 500 routes rated 5.10 or higher. Stop in at Rocky Mountain Outfitter in Kalispell for some beta.

5. HIKE KOOTENAI FALLS NEAR LIBBY

Kootenai County remains wild. The Revenant and The River Wild were both filmed here for a reason. Hike to Kootenai Falls, the largest undammed falls in the state and take in views of the Kootenai River while crossing the iconic Kootenai Falls Swinging Bridge.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:

Bozeman Hot Springs; Pompeys Pillar National Monument; Pictograph Cave State Park; Chico Hot Springs;

ROAD TRIP 2:

HOT SPRING HEAVEN

Start: Boiling River in Gardner / End: Chico Hot Springs in Pray

Adventure in the mountains can be an exhausting endeavor, so why not partake in one of the most relaxing activities possible? The Treasure State is home to scores of natural, mineral-rich hot springs. Take a dip.

1. BOILING RIVER

Immerse yourself in completely natural hot springs around the Boiling River. Set in Yellowstone National Park, there’s no resort or infrastructure, just hot and cool water entering the Gardiner River, creating the perfect temperature for a soak.

2. SPA HOT SPRINGS

Flathead Blackfeet and Crow tribes considered the valley where Spa Hot Springs is located neutral ground so everyone could experience the healing properties of the water in peace. Today you can enjoy two outdoor pools, an indoor pool and a lodge on site.

3. NORRIS HOT SPRINGS

Stay for the night at Norris Hot Springs where an onsite campsite, restaurant and live music have everything you need for entertainment and relaxation. The eco-friendly pools are drained each night and the water is recycled back into its natural spring.

4. BOZEMAN HOT SPRINGS

For more than 100 years, people have rejuvenated with a dip in these hot springs in the heart of the Gallatin Valley. The springs range in temperature from 59 to 104 degrees so you can find the right temperature no matter where you prefer the thermostat set.

5. CHICO HOT SPRINGS RESORT AND SPA

Chico Hot Springs is the perfect base camp for outdoor adventure. Whether you want to explore Yellowstone National Park, go fly fishing or hike the mountains above Paradise Valley, the 103-degree pools and on-site lodging with cozy cabins mean you can end your day with a relaxing soak.

ROAD TRIP 3:

BIGHORN AND BEYOND

Start: Billings / End: Billings

American history is written into the Montana landscape. Everyone knows Custer died at Little Bighorn. What this road trip presupposes is maybe his legacy didn’t? With apologies to Eli Cash, hit the road from Bighorn to the Badlands with pictographs, cemeteries and canyons, following historic trails etched in time.

1. PICTOGRAPH CAVE STATE PARK

Leave Billings heading south to Pictograph Cave State Park to follow in the footsteps of prehistoric hunters who inhabited the area 2,000 years ago. More than 100 pictographs endure on the walls of Pictograph, Middle and Ghost Caves.

2. POMPEYS PILLAR NATIONAL MONUMENT

The 200-foot-tall sandstone rising above the Yellowstone River is a testament to western frontier history. The rock face is covered in drawings from over the centuries, and Captain

PHOTO MONTANA OFFICE OF TOURISM AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

PHOTO MONTANA OFFICE OF TOURISM AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT William Clark carved his signature and the date into the rock. It’s the only site on the Lewis and Clark Trail where evidence of the expedition is visible to the public.

3. RANGE RIDERS MUSEUM AND MONTANA BAR

Eastbound to Miles City. Stop at the Range Riders Museum for exhibits on the town’s Native and pioneer heritage. Afterward, taste history at the Montana Bar. Opened in 1908, the authentic western bar is almost unchanged with steer heads and taxidermy on the walls, original Italian floor tile and wooden booths, and, of course, a steakhouse serving up Montana beef.

4. LITTLE BIGHORN BATTLEFIELD NATIONAL MONUMENT

Visit the site of Custer’s last stand, honoring the memory of the American Indian warriors and U.S. Cavalry soldiers who died during battle in 1876. Explore the area with Apsaalooke Tours, which employs Crow Indians as guides, from the RenoBenteen Battlefield, where the battle began, to Last Stand Hill, where it infamously ended.

5. BIGHORN CANYON NATIONAL RECREATION AREA

Turn south to the Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, which is referred to as the “Grandest Canyon in the Northern Rockies.” More than 70,000 acres straddle the Montana/Wyoming border with numerous recreation opportunities, like trout fishing in the river below Afterbay Dam.

6. CHIEF PLENTY COUPS STATE PARK

Nestled in the base of the Pryor Mountains, Chief Plenty Coups State Park is one of only three U.S. State Parks located on an American Indian reservation. Visit the home of Chief Plenty Coups—a National Historic Landmark—the last chief of the Crow. There’s no camping in the park, so head back to Billings for the evening.

FROM LEFT: Fort Peck Theatre; Bear Paw Battlefield bear Havre

ROAD TRIP 4:

MEANDER THE MISSOURI RIVER

Start: Fort Benton / End: Havre

From its headwaters at the confluence of the Gallatin, Madison and Jefferson Rivers, the Missouri River cuts a meandering swath across Montana. Journey through expansive landscapes to the relics of the Old West.

1. CANOE FROM FORT BENTON

The historic settlement of Fort Benton was once the starting point for navigating the Missouri, and today it’s a popular launching point for recreational river trips. Adventure Bound Canoe rents all the gear you need or can lead guided trips down the Missouri, where you’ll float and camp in remarkable settings.

2. FISHING AND POETRY IN LEWISTON

A ranching community in the center of Montana brings together western tradition and outdoor recreation like few other places. Anglers can enjoy outstanding brook trout fishing along the Judith River, while

those in search of a more cultural experience can check out the Mountain

Cowboy Poetry Gathering and the Western Music Rendezvous, both in Lewiston.

3. BIRDING AND BEER IN MALTA

The Bowdoin National Wildlife refuge is home to more than 260 bird species. 84,000 acres of wetlands and native prairie provide habitat to an enormous variety of wildlife. Take in the sights through binoculars then tip one back at the Blue Ridge Brewing.

4. PLAY AND PLAYS AT FORT PECK

Fort Peck sits at the head of the 134-mile-long reservoir of the same name where the walleye and northern pike practically jump out of the water. After pulling up anchor, visit the historic Fort Peck Theatre to catch a musical or play.

5. HISTORY IN HAVRE

The Bear Paw battlefield near Havre—one of the three sites of the Nez Perce Historic Park—is where Chief Joseph spoke his famous words, “From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever,” surrendering to the Army, ending the Nez Perce War in 1877. A groomed, milelong interpretive trail winds through the historic battlefield. Afterward, head back to Havre for some wonderful baked goods and sandwiches at local favorite, Grateful Bread.

For more travel ideas head to visitmt.com

PHOTO CREDIT ADAM FINKLE

THE DO-GOODER

Davis Smith says his formative years

growing up in various parts of Latin America cemented his dream to balance profit with purpose.“I’d see kids on the street without clothes and without places to go,” he says of growing up in the Dominican Republic, Bolivia, Ecuador and Peru—wherever his father’s job in construction took them. “Even then, I knew the only difference between me and those kids was where I’d been born.” Smith was born in the United States. Smith founded Cotopaxi in Salt Lake City with the intention of building people and humanity into the core and heart of his brand.

Each year Cotopaxi donates a portion of its revenue to initiatives alleviating poverty, and its designation as a B Corp ensures fair practices and sustainability in every link of its supply chain.

Smith remembers first sharing his idea with a trusted mentor. “He told me, ‘So you know, people won’t buy your product just because you’re doing good in the world,” he recalls. “They have to love the product.”

He says he has always loved the outdoor lifestyle, (as a kid he spent time hiking with his dad near the Cotopaxi volcano in the Andes Mountains), but outdoor clothing? Not so much. “This is a massive industry

ver the years, Utah has become an outdoor industry hub, acting as mission control while providing pristine backdrops that bring gear to life with the ultimate field test—from backcountry boots to climbing quickdraws. Hosting everyone from ski junkies in search of that powdery white stuff to cyclopaths hunting red rock playgrounds, it’s no wonder—though often a surprise— that our state has birthed some brag-worthy companies.

We talked to four founders who’ve stuck around to watch their trailblazing idea disrupt the industry. With dogged determination, they’ve busied themselves crafting snowboards with more pop, mountain bikes with more grit, pants that won’t ride up and packs that don’t sink down. They live by credos worth contemplating—whether it’s sticking to one’s roots, combating world poverty, cleaning up the planet or making gear affordable for amateurs, these founders have maintained course and refused to compromise their vision.

Cotopaxi Founder Davis Smith.

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with a ton of really big companies that are 50—even 100 years old,” he says. “I wanted to build something new for millennials and GenZers that didn’t look like their parents’ and grandparents’ brands. I saw an opportunity to do it differently with bright, color-blocked jackets and backpacks, fluorescents that convey joy, optimism and youth,” he says. The result was a bold, retro aesthetic that possessed an ethos of “doing good.”

Smith didn’t have a background in clothing design but plenty of experience in creating digitally native companies. In 2004, the freshly-minted Brigham Young University grad founded PoolTables.com with his cousin Kimball Thomas and watched it quickly grow into one of the largest independent pool table retailers in the U.S. Six years later, the cousins sold it, and Smith went on to attend Wharton Business School. In 2011, he rejoined Thomas to launch a second company, Brazil-based babies.com-br.

“But just like I didn’t want to be a pool table guy forever, I didn’t see babies.com as my final stop, either,” he says. So, in 2014, he left the business in his cousin’s hands and together with his then family of four (now six) moved from Brazil back to Utah to launch Cotopaxi.

He tapped a friend from Wharton, Stephan Jacob, and outdoor industry veteran CJ Whittaker to be his co-founders. They raised venture capital, hired a small team, then went to work creating five multicolored backpack designs and a couple of water bottles, all LUZON 18L DEL DÍA DAY PACK printed with their company mascot, the Andesnative llama. Next, they bought actual llamas. “We found the llamas on Craigslist and took them around to college campuses to advertise our These one-of-a-kind wonders are made of repurposed remnant materials, meaning no two packs are alike. Its simple, no-fuss company-launch event called Questival,” a 24-hour design features a roomy main compartment adventure race where teams are given challenges so you can fit anything and everything, plus that range from picking up trash to summiting a a few side pockets that keep keys, phone peak. “It was a huge hit. Everyone got a backpack and snacks out of the way. made of remnant fabrics for participating.”

Now, Questivals happen all over the country annually. Cotopaxi has grown from six to 126 employees and sells all sorts of travel gear and apparel, including duffels and packs, jackets, T-shirts, hats, sweaters, you name it. Although most of its products are sold online, the company has added five brick-and-mortar stores in Utah, Colorado and Washington.

Creating the first venture capital-backed Benefit Corporation and Certified B Corp, Smith not only admits there’s profit in this digitally-driven new age of activism but preaches that mission-based companies build trust and value. He says his (modest) raison d’etre is to change the face of capitalism. “Right now, it’s fashionable to fix things,” he says. “I hope it stays that way. We’re making money and we’re helping to alleviate poverty. It shows other companies what’s doable. GEAR GUIDE COTOPAXI.COM

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GETTING ON BOARD

Even though Kirsten Kolter and Ana Van Pelt met

while working for a company to develop a new type of horse harness— Kolter in product development and Van Pelt in design—neither of them actually rode horses. They discovered, however, they both rode powder.

“Snowboarding was our community,” Kolter says of their meeting 15 years ago. “There weren’t as many female boarders out there, so we became fast friends.” That chance meeting would forge not only a friendship but later a business partnership pioneering hand-crafted, environmentally-friendly, zero-waste snowboards bearing the name Niche.

As a New York transplant who came out West a few years before attending the University of Utah, Kolter says she found solace on the slopes. For Van Pelt, who grew up in California and moved to Idaho as a teenager, she credits snowboarding with saving her life.

“I was suffering from a severe eating disorder when I first strapped on a board and realized, ‘Whoa, I love this...I really love this,’” says Van Pelt. It struck her that great snowboarders were strong, athletic and took care of their bodies. “That motivation just changed me. I knew I needed to get healthy—and after a lot of hard work, I did.”

After their first foray working together, an acquaintance looking to invest in a custom-graphics snowboard company asked the two women to sit in on the pitch. “We came out of that meeting and said to ourselves, ‘We could do this better. We both know the industry and each of us has a set of expertise it needs right now,” says Kolter. “More importantly, we felt we could bring something new to the table that existing board companies were overlooking.”

That “something” was environmental responsibility. Both women shared a grievance regarding the industry’s harmful environmental practices, describing the toxic resins and nonrecyclable plastics that make up a typical board. They thought it ironic that, while celebrating the outdoor lifestyle, most snowboard companies seemed to care little for their impact on the planet.

“We knew our boarding community was made up of many like-minded people who were passionate about the environment and the outdoors,” says Van

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Not bound by resort operating hours, the classic all-mountain shape of this splitboard works for any conditions and every rider. Plus, it’s the only zerowaste splitboard on Earth.

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Taking snowboarding back to its roots with traditional edge control and a tapered, directional, camber, this board features new-school twists like edge-tracing traction bumps and a hybrid directional camber profile. Cruise, carve, float and charge with ease.

Pelt. “So why were big-name snowboard companies unapologetic about the war they waged on the environment and why was no one looking to do it differently?”

They went back to the investor with their own proposal, and in 2010, Niche Snowboards was born. With help from Van Pelt’s husband Todd Robertson, creating zero-waste prototypes of an eco-friendly snowboard became “a real family affair,” says Van Pelt. They used recycled bases and sidewalls and edges. They replaced carbon fiber with basalt fiber, created sustainably sourced wood cores, applied bio-resins and used hemp composite instead of carbon fiber stringers for reinforcement, springiness and pop. The final touch was lacquer-free, beautiful graphics made from non-toxic, water-based inks and environmentally friendly printing methods.

“Our initial aim was to ensure performance every bit as good as the competition without the waste and toxins,” says Van Pelt. “We weren’t expecting the alternative materials to actually feel superior and outperform—but that’s exactly what happened. They’re lighter, snappier and more durable than most traditionally-constructed decks.” She admits to skepticism, confusion and “more than a few side-eyes’’ from folks when Niche was starting out. The sustainability “trend,” as she calls it, wasn’t yet in full swing. Thankfully, their silent investor wasn’t among the skeptics.

Eleven years later, Kolter and Van Pelt are thrilled at the success of Niche Snowboards. As the world’s first and only completely zero-waste snowboard company, it has gained serious traction, selling globally through a network of retailers from REI to backcountry.com to specialty boutique shops like Milosport, with a list of big-name riders like current Freeride World Tour athlete Erika Vikander. The plan for Niche over a decade ago was simple: make boards that perform, look beautiful and love

Niche founders Ana Van Pelt and Kirsten Kolter

the planet. Niche has never graced the Olympics or sponsored XGames, yet this Salt Lake City company has carved up the snowboarding industry by setting the standard and forcing even the giants to answer for—and improve—their practices.

“Some of the response is, of course, greenwashing,” says Van Pelt, who adds that despite this, she sees it as a ‘win’ any time a beneficial technology becomes trendy and inspires change.

“Ultimately, it’s a great thing. Even if it’s driven by money, it doesn’t matter where their heart is. If the demand for more transparency in manufacturing is there,” Van Pelt says. “We are making a difference.”

Chris Washburn founed Fezzari Bicycles.

THE RIDE OF A LIFETIME

Chris Washburn remembers a singular,

clarifyingmoment that led to the birth of his company, Fezzari Bicycles. With degrees in both business and law from Brigham Young University, he seemed destined for corporate life, working in the newly-emerging electric bike industry with such giants as famed businessman Lee Iacocca and the U.S. military. But a decade into the drill, commuting to the east coast nearly every week, a niggling sense that life was passing him by crystallized as he boarded yet another plane.

“I was missing every soccer game, dance recital, birthday—I was missing life,” the father of five children and husband to wife, Nancy, says. “I remember this one particular day—I was in turmoil, wondering what to do. At the moment my feet crossed that divide from the jetway into the airplane, it was like a light turned on and I knew I was crossing a threshold in my own life.”

Washburn decided to quit his job, and in 2005, he went to work creating Fezzari Bicycles, a web-based company specializing in customdesigned, high-end bikes for both road and mountain riders.

“I’ve always loved biking. I’m not a former Tour de France rider or anything. I just have a passion for it,” he says. “I’m a bike junkie, and I’m always looking for a high-quality setup.” But walking into a bike shop to explore custom bike options sometimes felt like sneaking into the country club. “There can often be an elitist mentality and a take-it-as-it-is attitude. Sometimes I was made to feel like I should be content with what was in the showroom.”

“You don’t have to be a world-class runner to want a running shoe that fits. You can buy the nicest set of golf clubs but they don’t do you any good if they’re not the right size. So why is it that getting a bike built and fitted to your specifications seemed so outlandish—not to mention obscenely expensive?”

Washburn set about hiring a team of designers, mechanics and engineers. He then secured partnerships with top-of-the-line component manufacturers, and they began building high-end bikes with dozens of customizable options. “We won’t enter a category unless we can make the best-in-class in a product,” Washburn says. “We knew we were going to be competing against behemoths, so we decided we’d offer really good products that make that elite, custom experience accessible to even the weekend warrior.”

Fifteen years later, Utah’s biggest bike company still operates almost entirely online, but it does have a factory showroom in its brand new Lindon, Utah headquarters, allowing locals to test ride, get custom fittings and order a bike.

Washburn says Fezzari’s direct-to-consumer

online model allows its bike builders to fit bikes, including frames, handlebars, forks, stems and seatposts to each rider’s measurements. A deeper dive can even amount to custom components from gear ratios to derailleurs all for about 40 percent less than similarly-specced competitor models. As a result, they have received three Bike of the Year awards and currently have a six-month backorder. Critics have likened Fezzari bikes to ‘a machine gun in a knife fight’ and eager customers seem content to wait months for that big box delivered to their doorstep. “People are willing to wait. They see the value in getting it just how they want it,” he says.

Fezzari allows customers 30 days to test ride it and send it back for free if they’re not satisfied. “It was originally seen as a risky model, and what we’ve found is that the only way we can offer that guarantee is to be 100 percent confident in our product and believe customers will love it, too.”

Washburn says jumping from the mundanity of corporate life to a creative venture came with many questions and few easy answers. “I wondered if I’d made a mistake because the whole point was to be able to spend more time with my family and enjoy my passions,” he says. In reality, he didn’t even get on his bike during his first year creating a bike company. Sixteen years later, however, life has settled into a rhythm of not just calls to suppliers and meetings with designers, but family dinners, graduations and daily canyon rides with Nancy on bikes that represent a passion built from the ground up.

GEAR GUIDE

FEZZARI.COM

THE DELANO PEAK

Fezzari’s newest premiere full carbon all-mountain/trail bike does it all, equally adept at climbing and descending.

THE EMPIRE

When “Iron Cowboy” James Lawrence looked for the right bike to help him complete 100 full-distance triathlons in 100 consecutive days, he turned to this full carbon disc brake road bike. Named ‘Bike of the Year’ by BikeRumor it’s light, fast and remarkably comfortable.

WHO’S MISSING FROM THE OUTDOOR INDUSTRY?

Researching outdoor companies both in and outside of Utah, we noticed it too—a glaring lack of representation where people of color are concerned. This is true not only in the boardrooms but also on the bike trails and among the boulders. Research shows people of color are far less likely to engage in nature-based activities thanks to a history that locked them out of national parks and structural deficits that keep many feeling out of place. Pushing back takes many forms, including Utah-based Backcountry.com’s new “Breaking Trail” program, a commitment to supporting organizations like Latino Outdoors and Native Women’s Wilderness that improve access and promote exposure to the outdoors for the underrepresented. backcountry.com/sc/backcountry-advocate-program

THE WIRE PEAK

With this high-performance pedal-assist e-bike, mountain bikers get a great workout while taking their adventures faster and farther.

KÜHL RUNNINGS

When a teenaged Kevin Boyle left his home in Pennsylvania

to chase after Utah’s powdery slopes, he says he was reborn. “You gotta do what you love,” he says simply—and he did. Determined to ski 100 days that year even when his savings dried up, Boyle waited tables, sold ski hats in the Snowbird parking lot and sometimes even took shelter in a snow cave he’d dug with his ski buddies.

Fast-forward almost four decades, and he’s still writing his own playbook—being outside as often as he can—although now residing in an actual house. When he’s not on the trails, he’s at KÜHL headquarters in Salt Lake City, bouncing ideas around with a handful of his 140 employees for shirts with additional vents, pants with smoother stretch, and warm jackets that feel like a second skin.

Boyle’s long-ago move out west for the daily snow-worship eventually drew his brother, Jay, to join him on the Snowbird slopes. There, they made fast friends with mountaineer Conrad Anker and fellow skier John “Alf” Engwall. When Engwall designed a Peruvian-style ski hat with a fleece lining, it caught the attention of the other three, and together, they began producing and selling the “Alf Hats” out of the trunk of Engwall’s car. They called their company Alfwear, and soon the multicolor, must-have ski hat of the 1980s dotted the powdery slopes of most Utah mountain resorts.

After a tragic car accident that resulted in the death of Engwall, the three remaining partners eventually set out to pursue individual passions. Conrad Anker received sponsorship for his climbing endeavors, Jay Boyle moved to Phoenix, Ariz. to earn an MBA and Kevin Boyle bought the business, renaming it “KÜHL” (cool in German) and pursuing new designs while expanding the product line. Today, it is the second-largest privately-owned business in the outdoor industry, growing at 30 percent year over year with 500 different products this season alone.

And while everyone wants in on KÜHL’s “technical sportswear”—high-performance casual clothing that moves effortlessly from ski runs to sales meetings—KÜHL remains purposely small-staffed, locally-run and committed to doing business with outdoor retailers over mega-companies. That it’s still independently owned and operated is due to one simple fact: it’s not for sale. But what else would you expect from a fiercely independent powderhound who found salvation on a pair of skis?

ESKAPE DUFFEL BAG

While typical adventure-duffels are made to hold everything, most require a complete dump-out to find anything. The Eskape carries like a comfy padded backpack but features easy organizational features and stow-away shoulder straps for checked luggage. Made of durable, waterproof, TPU-laminated nylon fabric

THE ONE JACKET

An enigma of seeming opposites, The One is lightweight, breathable, stretchy and features heat-releasing underarms while managing to keep out wind and water. Its synthetic insulation keeps you moving fast, feeling light and staying warm. In men’s and women’s sizes.

GEAR GUIDE

KÜHL.COM

MEN’S RESISTOR LITE CHINO

Designed to feel weightless with moisture-wicking fabric even on the hottest, most humid summer days, these pants move seamlessly between a trek to an alpine lake, kayaking through the wetlands or closing a deal in the boardroom. Timeless chino styling masks performance patterning, rebound and a tough-as-nails weave.

The close-knit team at KÜHL. FIRST ROW: Amber Shabanoff, Gustavo Gramajo, Stephanie Buschardt, Katelyn Ridgeway, Connie Davis, Yukie Melville, Sam Wellskopf. SECOND ROW: Kevin Boyle, Shelby McCashland, Kate Annis, Lauren Wright, Lissa Pooley, Amanda Scarsella, John Gartland. TABLE IN BACK: Stephanie Wildermuth, Tere Soltero, Linsey Lane and Sarah Scott. RIGHT: KÜHL Founder Kevin Boyle.

KÜHL tends to capture like-minded customers who are obsessed with performance and have come to trust its inventive design features and super comfy fabrics with special weaves and stitching that can withstand repeated blows. The company’s employees—who live and breathe the outdoors as well—field-test everything so nothing is left to chance.

“We have bikers, skiers, boarders, trail-runners. You name it. People that tend to work here seek balance and feel centered in the outdoors.” says Boyle, who has worked to make the headquarters homey by offering daily, chef-made meals for employees, ski passes for their use and an open-door policy for families and four-legged friends. “I owe the success of this company to a loyal, rainmaking team and I know we’re all happier and perform better when we have the space to pursue our passions.”

Not only has Boyle rebuffed potential buyers, but major retail giants who wanted KÜHL in their store. “You don’t walk away from people who have supported you,” he says of the specialty retail shops and outdoor companies that once took a chance on him. He adds that working with businesses compatible with the culture of his company keeps the brand from getting watered down—and Boyle is obsessed with keeping the brand as authentic as its origins.

“I want a life of quality, not quantity,” the founder says, adding that safeguarding KÜHL’s “born in the mountains” authenticity is akin to breathing. “Our team is all about doing the right thing the right way rather than just focusing on the bottom line. This company has deep roots, and I couldn’t watch it get watered down into something unrecognizable.”