SALT CELLAR

MIX IT WITH the best

WORDS STEVE LESZCZYNSKI

Yalumba winery

THE BLENDING OF different wine varieties is a fi ne art. There is also a precise science to the production of such wines. Far from being a hit and hope approach, blending all comes back to one word – balance.

Some of the elements winemakers consider in their approach to producing a blend include fruit, tannin, acid and alcohol.

McLaren Vale winemaker Alan Varney of Varney Wines produces a number of blends, some of which are experimental as he toys with skin contact and savoury appeal. “Regardless of whether I am putting together a multi-varietal blend or a single varietal wine, maintaining balance is always key. Each individual component will have its strengths and they must be allowed to shine through in the fi nished wine without being lost in the blend.

“It must also be remembered that wines will evolve and develop over time so this balance must be maintained over the life of a wine, not just on release. It is identifying what each piece of the puzzle will bring to the wine that takes practice and I suppose a fair degree of intuition.”

Australia’s gift to the winemaking world is the cabernet shiraz blend. No one has championed the marriage of these two varieties more than the Barossa Valley’s Yalumba. In recent times, Yalumba has gone about producing a ‘super claret’ and it is a wine that has stamped its authority and then some.

Winemaker Kevin Glastonbury says, “People want to see greatness.” And he’s right. From a most impressive vintage, pour a glass of The Caley 2016, embrace the

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Yalumba winery

Varney Wines

aromas and sip slowly – you’d be forgiven for thinking you were knocking on the door to the promised land. The precision of this wine details all things that highlight a talented winemaker delivering an exceptional wine that marries two different regions.

On the fi fth release of The Caley, Kevin says he has taken much from the 2012 and 2013, which have since shaped recent releases. The 2015 and 2016 are driven by the Coonawarra cabernet’s style, structure and aromatics.

The beauty of The Caley is that it demonstrates vintage variance – something some other premium-priced wines in the market shy away from. Only ever from two specifi c vineyards (one each in Coonawarra and the Barossa), the oak management has also varied in this time with 25 to 45 per cent new French oak having been used.

Blending wines is not limited to varieties alone. It is not uncommon for different vineyards to be used to blend one variety. Consider the splendid O’Leary Walker Clare Valley shiraz featured opposite. A blend of two different vineyards located across the region, the result is a glorious wine.

Next time you see a blend on the shelf, consider the precision, science and decision-making process behind the countless bench trials to deliver a wine that sees numerous moving parts merge into a humble bottle.

SAY CHEERS WITH A SUNSHINE COAST BEER! Blackflag Brewing Aff inity Tropical Pale Ale (4.7% alc) In spring the mercury rises and this crisp brew is an ideal cleanser as you laze about the aft ernoon – post surf, aft er mowing, or just lounging. Loaded with passionfruit, pineapple and a hint of grapefruit, this is super refreshing.

Blackflag Brewing Chiggy’s Middy (3.5% alc) A sessional delight, Mooloolaba’s Blackflag crew loves skating as much as brewing. This mid-strength is a collaboration with Chiggy’s Skateboarding, delivering floral, fruity and tropical goodness with a clean pair of heels. Pop an ollie then crack this for the perfect kick-on.

EIGHT WINES TO TRY: LONG LUNCHES DONE WELL – TELLURIAN ROSÉ 2020, $24 A blend of shiraz, nero d’avola, mourvedre and grenache, this is a terrific food wine. Expect dried red currants and cranberries, freeze-dried strawberries, fine spices and a dash of white pepper on close – it’s long and persistent. Tick, tick, tick. ITALIAN SUPERHERO – CORIOLE MONTIMARO 2020, $28 Montepulciano, sangiovese, negroamaro and nero d’avola were co-fermented to deliver an Italian superhero – less the cape. Bright and red fruit-driven early, it dances through the mouth with ease. Energetic, red and dark cherries sizzle before blackberries take charge. Just fabulous. GIVE ME MORE – VARNEY WINES GSM 2019, $32 Dripping with delish factor, mulberry and blueberry fruit come at you early. It’s earthy with cola and liquorice nuances but it’s the raspberries that bust a move and stand out. A 66/27/13 blend, gentle spices add impressive detail. Give me more kind of stuff . CLASSIC CLARE – O’LEARY WALKER CLARE VALLEY SHIRAZ 2019, $35 This is a wine that just grows on you. Sourced from Polish Hill River and Armagh vineyards, cool and silky feels run a neat course through the mouth. Liquorice bullets hit the tarmac and run a long race. Dark chocolate, black olives and charcoal work in unison with black fruits – it’s just delicious! Fine tannins develop and show some cocoa appeal finishing dry and powdery. Big love. SENSATIONALLY MEDIUM BODIED – DE IULIIS SHIRAZ TOURIGA 2018, $40 The following this wine is getting continues to snowball. Violets and purple flower aromas shift to juicy blueberries, licks of Ribena and black fruits plus dark cherries and fine spices all mesh together with absolute ease. Fine satiny tannins bask in the glory of the abundant fruit that strides out before. An absolute beauty! LOCAL HERO – WHISKEY GULLY WINES E.B. RESERVE BLANC DE BLANC 2018, $45 It is rare to see chardonnay and colombard used in a blanc de blanc but the rule book has been tossed out here as pleasure rains down. Peel back layers of cut apple, barley, touches of honey with the hero being a peaches and cream drive. CHERRY RIPE IN A GLASS – SCHILD ESTATE NARROW ROAD 2018, $70 This gets in deep yet has a silky touch. Dark chocolate, dense plums, dark cherries and fine oak add to the interest. It swerves and bends on its agile feet caressing the mouth with ease. There is a density and elegance, spice and curiosity too. Salute! INSANELY BRILLIANT – YALUMBA THE CALEY 2016, $365 A 71/29 blend, the dense black fruit and cassis of the cabernet make a move early but it is the savoury characters that shine bright. Partnered beautifully by the perfumed Barossa shiraz, it slowly gathers momentum. The fruit just sings, yet there is an underlying tension that keeps tugging away, ensuring things are in check. That restraint is a beacon for ageing. Just stand and applaud.