9 minute read
SALT CELLAR
GET AMONGST THE VINES
WORDS STEVE LESZCZYNSKI
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AUSTRALIA’S OLDEST CONTINUOUS wine producing region, the Hunter Valley, dates back to the 1820s. Less than an hour from Newcastle airport, it is an ideal weekend escape to get amongst the vines.
What makes the Hunter Valley even more attractive for Sunshine Coasters is the arrival of new airline Bonza. Offering cut-price deals for fl ights four times a week to Newcastle, it’s just another excuse to pack your bags and get on board.
It was well before planes graced the skies, that James Busby fi rst brought 500 cuttings with him from Europe, and over the ensuing years, a region was born. How’s this for a roll call: Dr Henry Lindeman arrived in 1843, followed soon after by the Draytons (1853), Tyrrells (1858) and Tullochs (1895) – all revered names still going strong except for Draytons, which was recently sold. Today, there are more than 150 wineries plying their trade in the region.
Characterised by a warm maritime and sub-tropical climate, early migrant settlers named the region Pokolbin. This is the area around which most wineries reside. Pokolbin can be translated to Hell Hole, such was the summer heat they experienced. Sitting in the shadows of the Broken Back Range, cool nights counterbalance the warm days making conditions ideal for grape growing. Temperatures fall to as low as 2 to 4 degrees Celsius during the winter months. Perfect conditions for a fi reside glass of red.
Most famously recognised for its incredible ability to produce the world’s best semillon coming off the ancient riverbed alluvial soils, shiraz is the other glamour of the region. Beautifully medium-bodied in all its glory with the best vineyards sitting on red soils, perched on a hill that is east facing. These sites hug the range which shelters the vines from the afternoon sun and wind. Of course, there are exceptions to the rule too.
A stand-out variety, and one that deserves more credit, are the stunning examples of chardonnay. Very much sitting in the shadows of its regional siblings, Hunter Valley chardonnay is an excellent drink and there are so many diverse expressions of it such as the lean, complex and pristine Tyrrell’s HVD that is grown on the world’s oldest chardonnay vines to the rich and oaky styles that are still adored by many.
Semillon is a variety ideal for summer drinks in the sun. As Andrew Thomas says, “Anything you can squeeze a lemon on, Hunter semillon is the way to go.” Perfect partners one could suggest.
But as climate change is setting in, winemakers are considering emerging varieties that can withstand the heat, yet not rely on a lot of water. Some varieties making their presence felt are whites such as albarino, riano, pecorino and vermentino, to reds such as touriga and sagrantino.
The re-emergence of the Hunter River burgundy has really gained some momentum in the past decade and now regions such as the Yarra Valley are following suit. HRB, as it is at times referred to, is a pinot noir and shiraz blend that fuses two incredibly delicious varieties into a silky and fl avour-packed wine. Check out producers such as Silkman, Comyns & Co, Briar Ridge, Usher Tinkler and Tyrrell’s to get amongst the action.
Although the Hunter Valley has some treasured brands and labels, the emergence of a new fl eet of producers forging their way forward ought to be on your radar. In recent years, Brokenwood and Mount Pleasant have spent big on spectacular renovations ensuring their cellar doors are excellent destinations. The rich traditions of Tyrrell’s holds fi rm as do highly sought-after wines from Lake’s Folly.
A label really taking it to the old fi rms is De Iuliis. Classy, contemporary wines, Mike De Iuliis’ limited shiraz was highly regarded and preferred by many in a line-up of soon-to-bereleased 2019 shiraz at a media tasting event in May. Mike’s shiraz touriga blend is gold-plated taking out numerous wine show trophies and gold medals year after year. Did I mention De Iuliis was awarded the Hunter Valley’s Cellar Door of the Year for 2022?
Down the road you’ll fi nd Comyns & Co. A small, family operation, the wines are considered and expressive with eye-catching labels. The fruit is sourced from various
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Andrew Thomas of Thomas Wines
vineyards around the valley. With an engaging cellar door experience as well, it makes the visit even more worthwhile.
Duck around the corner and in an old church on McDonalds Road you’ll fi nd the uber cool Usher Tinkler Cellar Door and Salumi. Kick back with a charcuterie board as you wander through Usher’s delicious white and red blends as well as a couple of wines such as Death by Semillon that push boundaries and shine a different light on the variety. But you’ll fi nd me in the corner tucking into their reserve chardonnay.
To see the district in one place though, you’d be hard pressed going past Thomas Wines. Specialising in semillon and shiraz, Andrew Thomas’ knowledge of the region’s soils and vineyards is second to none. The use of a state-of-the-art sorting table prior to crushing the fruit speaks of his meticulous approach. Thomas’ famed Braemore Semillon and Kiss Shiraz both experience a frantic demand at their annual release. Soil samples in the cellar door also showcase the region’s vineyard profi les with wines available at every price point.
With your tummy rumbling be sure to book into éRemo restaurant for lunch. It’s located at the beautiful Spicers
Retreats’ The Guesthouse. The insanely generously portioned avido menu is a must to take your senses on an aromatic and textural journey. Sit back, loosen the belt and indulge – it’s well worth it.
Another excellent lunch destination is Bistro Molines. Perched on top of the hill looking across Mount View, one of the best vistas in the valley will greet your eye as you feast on the French-inspired menu that doesn’t miss a beat.
For a relaxing drink with a trendy menu, the new Jimmy Joans bar in Lovedale is the perfect spot for a casual lunch or a sundowner. A considered drinks list and rotating tap beers cap things off, but you had me at lobster rolls.
SPRING WINE PICKS:
Thomas Wines Braemore Semillon 2022 ($38) From an iconic vineyard, the high-quality fruit comes courtesy of a state-of-the-art sorting table in the winery. Purity and precision describe this best. The concentration is thrilling, highlighted by a tropical lift and lime zest. Yes! Silkman Reserve Semillon 2021 ($45) From the Hunter Valley’s Winemaker of the Year 2022, soft delicate citrus fruits are the feature. Well-handled acidity seals the deal. Find those fresh oysters and prawns.
Mercer Wines Vermentino Bianco 2022 ($28) Sunshine and summertime in a glass. So crisp. So crunchy. It’s all white flowers, lemons and lemon juice with a citrusy and ruby grapefruit tang. Smash it poolside or by the beach. Tyrrell’s HVD Chardonnay 2021 ($85) Coming off what are said to be the oldest Chardonnay vines in the world, this oozes all levels of sexy complexity. Lean and precise with enough depth to satisfy, it’s just magic.
Usher Tinkler Reserve Chardonnay 2021 ($55) Delicious butterscotch, flinty and matchstick notes unfurl. A lemony drive gathers the troops before a grapefruit tang cuts in and has the last say on a long and vibrant finish. A terrific wine and one I’d happily keep filling the glass with as the sun slowly falls from the sky.
De Iuliis Limited Release Shiraz 2018 ($90) Contemporary medium bodied Shiraz at its best. Less than half the price of many iconic Hunter labels, this takes the challenge to them. Layered with generous berries and dark cherries leaving a trail of super fine spices that sizzle. This is classy and then some.
Mount Pleasant Rosehill Shiraz 2021 ($55) Awash with juicy raspberries, blueberries and red cherries, this is a joyous red that oozes charisma and elegance. It moves and sways through the mouth with absolute ease but I keep coming back to those pretty purple and red flower aromas – gorgeous!
Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz 2019 ($350) Planted in 1968, this is a graceful and sophisticated wine with restrained power. Still young with a little tension, the black fruit and structure elevates this to another level. Fine ripples of spice captivate and draw you closer. Divine.
Comyns & Co Reserve Shiraz Pinot Noir 2019 ($55) What a ripper this is! Bright with some crunch. Fill that glass up and just embrace its beauty. The ideal mix of charisma and focus is paired with balance and length. A clever wine that is very well made.
HERE’S CHEERS TO SUNSHINE COAST BEER! Terella Brewing has released four barrel-aged beers bringing together spirits and beer in one loaded package using ex-Jack Daniels and Woodford reserve barrels. The Imperial Bitter (12.5%) is porty and leathery with dark fruits and licks of caramel. The Smoked Porter (11.4%) features dark cherries, dark chocolate, vanilla and a well-handled smokiness. Glass House Brewery Pale Ale (4.5%). Do you like an easy drinking pale? This is tropical goodness that is citrus driven with a malty tail. Quality refreshment awaits.
STEVE LESZCZYNSKI is a wine writer, wine dinner host and MC. Apart from writing for his website QwineReviews.com, Steve contributes to Halliday Wine Companion Magazine, Vinomofo, Wine Business Magazine and Grapegrower Winemaker Magazine. Steve is a passionate supporter of the Queensland wine industry.
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