SALT CELLAR

NEW ZEALAND’S little gems

WORDS STEVE LESZCZYNSKI

NEW ZEALAND. IT’S the place where every turn is met with a stunning vista. A short trip across the ditch will net reward in so many ways, but it is the burgeoning wine scene I go hunting for – no surprises there.

Although there are a few regions that take the spotlight, there are a couple of hidden gems worth seeking out. The North Canterbury region is one of these. A mere 45-minute drive north from Christchurch airport and you’re in the midst of a humble wine region that does not get the recognition it deserves. Pinot noir, chardonnay and riesling dominate the landscape with fl ashes of other varieties such as cabernet franc, gewurztraminer and even shiraz (syrah).

With a landscape peppered by small, family-owned businesses, that sense of community is driven home from the outset. Warm sunny days and cool nights highlight the North Canterbury district’s viticulture, which spans 230 kilometres down the east coast, of which 90 per cent is planted in Waipara. In the shadow of the Three Deans Ranges and on the banks of the Waipara River, limestone and clay soils ensure the wine industry will always fl ourish here.

Talk about little producers, a stay at The Wine Pod at George’s Road Wines could not be recommended highly enough. Tucked away on the edge of a vineyard, this cute container home possesses all the amenities you’d ask for.

With a plentiful breakfast pack, barbecue and deck overlooking the vineyard, and a bar stocked with the product picked and made only metres away, the icing on the cake is the hot tub in the vineyard. Relaxing in the tub with a glass in hand as the sun slowly falls behind the Three Deans is simply magical, before being treated to a galaxy of stars to delight the eye.

You don’t need to go far to continue your exploration either. The neighbouring properties are rich in vino diversity – check out The Bone Line for a wonderfully refreshing chardonnay and elegant cabernet franc or head to the organic vineyards of Terrace Edge for a delicious riesling or syrah. The biodynamic and organically farmed Fiddler’s Green is a worthy dinner stop with an impressive menu worth savouring.

If you are a serious connoisseur though, make an appointment and head 20 minutes out along the Weka Pass to Bell Hill and Pyramid Valley.

Lunch at the most famous vineyard in the district is a must. Established in 1986, Pegasus Bay is owned and run by the Donaldson family from the ground up. With all fi ve family members managing all facets of the business, this place is simply magnifi cent.

The stunning gardens are nothing short of picturesque. On a glorious day drenched with blue sky and sunshine, we sat among the fl owers and the biggest bumble bees you will ever see as they went about their work. Many of New Zealand’s top chefs have started out in this kitchen before venturing across the country and the world. Does your belly need any more convincing?

Pinot noir and chardonnay excel on the valley fl oor south of the Waipara River but it is riesling that general manager Paul Donaldson has a special place for. Five are produced – more than many other producers I might add – all with varying levels of sugar and texture. Incorporating sustainable practices in the vineyard, winemaker Matthew Donaldson builds complexity,

Pegasus Bay

power and weight in his wines ensuring the fruit speaks for the earth from which it’s born.

Next stop, Central Otago, one of the world’s premier wine-producing districts. It is easy to see why this is so. Warm days ripen the fruit evenly as cool nights hit the pause button. But there are many other factors too. The town of Cromwell is the most inland inhabited area and this region is the least maritime-infl uenced in the country. Located in the 45th parallel – halfway between the equator and the South Pole – the region is shaped by the cool continental weather pattern. As a result, six subregions all show their uniqueness. The French use the word ‘terroir’ to describe this but the Kiwis use a Maori term ‘Turangawaewae’, which is translated to “a place to stand” empowering connection to the land. Moving around the district you can see the wines are a refl ection of their soil and microclimates.

A run around the subregions looks like this: Wanaka is the northern-most sub-region and the smallest, receiving more rain than the others but producing juicy fruit. Bendigo is all power and structure, Cromwell/Lowburn/ Pisa are supple and approachable, Bannockburn is the dress circle of the region and demonstrates power and richness. Alexandra produces skeletal wines and Gibbston is more about bright fruit.

But with so many wonderful wineries to befriend, where to start? Well, I went to the pub. Make a beeline for the Cardrona Hotel. Please do. Roughly 20 minutes from Wanaka, you arrive at this establishment, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Walk in and it is thriving. Incredible! A hearty pub menu awaits but the best thing you can do is arm yourself with a Speight’s as you slowly devour the seafood chowder. This is the advice I was given and it is advice I’m more than happy to share.

Kick off your Central Otago wine fi x at Aitken’s Folly.

Blink and you’ll miss this tiny three-hectare site a stone’s throw from the Wanaka township. Pinot noir (75 per cent) and chardonnay are the only two varieties planted here and both are delicious. If there was such a thing as a sessional pinot, this would be it. The chardonnay is clever too and the wines are humbly priced. A great fi nd.

The Maude cellar door is an ideal place to kick back with a glass or two matched with a clever menu. Sitting on the hill overlooking Wanaka out to the lake, the business has been family run for 26 years. Winemakers Dan and Sarah-Kate Dineen met when working at Brokenwood in the Hunter Valley and have been inseparable since. Returning home to New Zealand, their wines are pristine and engaging. Their mission to produce the best pinot noir is clear with fi ve takes on the variety with varying expressions of site, weight and texture. Brilliant!

Just outside Wanaka you’ll fi nd Nanny Goat. The name is a refl ection of the goat’s drive to survive, much like the vines that struggle in the soil to produce excellent fruit. Now certifi ed organic, winemaker Alan Peters-Oswald is all about letting the fruit express the site without being overworked. Readily available in Australia, his pinot is a classic interpretation of the district.

In the heart of Cromwell you’ll come across Wooing Tree. Named after the iconic tree that is over 100 years old and unmissable from the road, the 18-hectare property was isolated in 2002 when purchased, but the urban sprawl now sees the vineyard surrounded by development. A great spot for a relaxed lunch, the Blondie is an eye-catching wine oozing refreshment, but the complexity of the fl agship Sandstorm pinot noir sits at another level.

A little further up the road is the Burn Cottage vineyard, which is planted to 97 per cent pinot noir. Although there is no cellar door, this pinot noir swept me off my feet and was by far and away the best I tasted in the region. Biodynamic and organic since its fi rst planting in 2003, the fruit is delicately handled, delivering a sumptuous and curvaceous wine that is simply breathtaking. Winemaker Claire Mulholland’s philosophy is simple – focus on the vineyard to produce vibrant and elegant wines that represent the site. Balanced impeccably, this is a sublime example of Central Otago pinot noir.

Resting on the banks of the Kawarau River and Bannockburn inlet you’ll fi nd Carrick. Certifi ed organic and biodynamic, winemaker Rosie Menzies’ wines have an elegance and grace as she plays with textures, delivering engaging wines through skin contact and whole bunches. A relaxed aspect looks out from the restaurant, which delivers a sophisticated dining experience.

SAY CHEERS WITH A SUNSHINE COAST BEER! Moff at Beach Brewing Co. Moff ’s Summer Ale (4.5% alc) Forget the Milton mango when you can rip into an insanely refreshing Moff Mango! A passion fruit and mango bomb, it is crisp and crushable. Voted Champion Session Beer at the Australian Independent Brewing Awards – enough said. Moff at Beach Brewing Co. Social Jam (3.5% alc) An American pale ale with full flavour but the punch dialled down, delivering a super mid-strength beer showing tropical fruit and mild bitterness. Stay a little longer and have another.

Carved into a rocky outcrop, unwinding on the terrace and absorbing the ranges in the distance and the Cromwell basin is tough at Mt Diffi culty. While sipping on a glass and enjoying a fi rst-class meal, the cellar door is an iconic experience. Its wines cater for all price points and the fruit is drawn from various subregions.

One more stop? You’re living on the edge when driving to Chard Farm – literally. The road to the cellar door creeps along the edge of a cliff. Round the turn and it is all worth it. Formerly a fruit orchard, Chard Road was once the old road linking Cromwell and Queenstown – hard to believe. Chard Farm’s vineyards are picturesque and perched on the edge of the Kawarau River. With its cosy cellar door, this will be a memorable experience.

But you still want more? If adventure is your thing, satisfy your adrenaline by bungee jumping off a bridge, white-water rafting, jet boating, head off into the wilderness on a mountain bike or cruise along well-maintained and easy riding tracks and rail trails – an excellent way to experience the region. Even book a helicopter ride to get a bird’s eye view. Once the snow falls, skiing and snowboarding bring the area to life in the winter months. What is not to love about this splendid part of the world?

Mind you, if you’re unable to physically get across the border, take your senses on a journey in the comfort of your own home and try these wines, which are available at good independent retailers right across the Sunshine Coast.

Pegasus Bay

NINE WINES TO TRY:

LONG LUNCHES – WOOING TREE BLONDIE 2020, $35 Perfect for long lunches and warm days in the Queensland sun. A blanc de noir (white wine from dark grape) with a gorgeous blush appearance, red currant and red cherries roll through ever-so soft ly. Scents of jasmine add pretty factor. Go here. REFINED – MAUDE PINOT NOIR 2019, $38 Deep but refined. Quite savoury with a hint of smokiness, this grew on me. Quality pinot will age and this will demonstrate that – if patient. A ripper! LOCAL HERO – BARAMBAH FIRST GRID RACK DRIED SEMILLON 2016 $39 (375ML) A wonderfully balanced dessert wine from the South Burnett that has eyes only for dried fruits and cheese. A far cry from some of those syrupy and sickly sweet dessert wines, this has a cleansing appeal about it. Long with great acidity. Delicious! TERRIFICALLY AROMATIC – CARRICK BANNOCKBURN PINOT NOIR 2017, $55 There is concentration and focus here yet there is also a playful side. A pinot that slides down with ease. Moreish and classy, the longer it sits the better it gets. Big love. MR RELIABLE – MT DIFFICULTY BANNOCKBURN PINOT NOIR 2018, $55 The Central Otago 2018 vintage was the hottest summer in 50 years, bringing harvest three weeks early. Some density with youthful tannins and soft baking spices curl around the mouth. Yum. EARTHY AND MINERALLY – CHARD FARM MATA-AU PINOT NOIR 2018, $55 An impressive Central Otago pinot sourced from two of Chard Farm’s Cromwell sites – the Viper and Tiger vineyards. Highlighted by pretty red berry and red flower aromas, supple and fine spices click into gear. Captivating. PRETTY AND POWERFUL – NANNY GOAT SUPER NANNY 2019, $65 Wonderfully structured. Terrific width and stunning length. Sleek and super fine delivery. Polished in every facet. Classy deluxe. ALWAYS THE STAR – PEGASUS BAY PINOT NOIR 2017, $70 Give this some time in the glass and the reward is imminent as it slowly unfurls. It is hard not to be captivated by the weight and length. A super impressive wine. BREATHTAKING – BURN COTTAGE PINOT NOIR 2017, $90 This exudes all the prettiness and delicacy that pinot has to off er. Incredible purity and elegance are laced throughout. Balanced impeccably, this is a sublime example of Central Otago pinot noir.

STEVE LESZCZYNSKI is a wine writer, wine dinner host and MC. Apart from writing for his website QwineReviews.com, Steve contributes to Halliday Wine Companion Magazine, Vinomofo, Wine Business Magazine, Grapegrower & Winemaker Magazine and has previously written for Must Do Brisbane. Steve is a passionate supporter of the Queensland wine industry. *Disclaimer – the author paid for all flight, accommodation and car hire expenses.

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