Contents Hello Philosophy The Fashion & Textile Industry Using your creativity The essentials Don’t forget Feeling shirty 3 ways Feeling daring Let’s get dressed up Short shorts Collars up Let’s talk hemlines Snip snip Check-mate One piece, two piece Super soft touch Trash is treasure Bibliography
Hello, We all love going round looking in charities and vintage shops. It excites you knowing that you’re getting something for less than its actual value. It is fulfilling knowing that you have had a successful day of shopping that has incurred bargains and successful finds. In these tough economic times the need and demand for value has plummeted, are our attitudes changing and are we not becoming so obsessed about style over substance? In society consumers are looking to get more value for their money. This could explain why the selling and buying of vintage clothing has become so trendy. Part of the appeal for vintage lies in its fundamental value; when you buy vintage you are almost guaranteed of receiving a quality piece that is well-made at an affordable price. Not to mention that it will be different to all the fashion items that is out there in the market at the moment. The clothing that you reuse or change can express your personality and is a individual piece of clothing. The uniqueness of a once-off vintage piece allows for this. Fashion trends are recycled on a yearly basis and wearing vintage or handmade reused clothing means you can rock the latest trend and be in fashion affordably. One man’s trash is another man’s treasure, after all.
Philosophy
Recycling follows the ideology that used items can still be useful, or provide useful materials. Up cycling supports with this thought but takes it one step further, highlighting that items made from recycled materials can be even more desirable and functional than the original products. Up cycling is nothing new, of course, people have always mended clothes, sanded and repainted items, taken a bit of this and put it with that. But now in the twenty first century up cycling is trendy and desirable. Reusing clothing or odd scraps of material is less expensive than buying new clothes all the time and that reusing textiles is a good way to keep them being used and wanted. Furthermore on the plus side it keeps it out of landfills. It is much easier to find and create and design your own style using second hand and vintage clothes, and you get a natural high from producing something that you have handmade.
The Fashion & Textile Industry
The fashion and textile industry often gets slammed in sustainability circles. Dyeing and finishing fabric involves using liberal amount of chemicals, steam and water, leaving behind an enormous environmental footprint. The total amount of clothing and textile waste arising per year in the UK is approximately 2.35 million tones. This is equivalent to nearly 40kg per person per a year, a figure that includes industry waste and domestic waste. Only around a quarter of all waste textiles in the UK are reclaimed, with 13% going to material recovery and 13% to incineration. With the 25% of UK clothing and textiles that are currently reused, the reclamation process usually involves collected the unwanted items through charity shops, door to door collection and clothing banks, which are then taken to a recycling plant to be sorted.
The best quality items are resold as nearly new garments in charity and second hand shops and a small proportion is reworked into customized clothing. But the public needs to be aware of textile recycling and more people should recycle their old attire, whether it’s through donation, thrift store shopping or simple recycling. On top of this there are the labor issues, it is common that the underprivileged in third world countries are working in unsafe conditions in places where laborers are under paid for a long hard day of work. So by doing your bit by recycling, reusing or swapping items instead of trying to keep up with the disposable fashion and throwaway society that currently sport is economical and resourceful. Giving a new home to someone’s pre-loved clothing is also extremely green.
Using your creativity Up cycling projects involve creative ways of using old unwanted products and materials. By re using items it has many benefits as it helps you save money and it contributes to helping save the planet. Usually if there is something going spare, there is a use for it somewhere. The term of up cycling is evolving along with the handmade items as they are both up and coming sectors of design. Handmade and vintage items are growing in popularity for consumers. Websites such as Etsy are promoting this creativity that allows the public and suppliers to buy and sell handmade or vintage items, and is now one of the world’s most vibrant handmade marketplaces. Other websites such as Pinterest are currently thriving with hundreds of links of ways to recycle and reuse items or to find a new use for them. TV programs such as ‘Kirstie’s Homemade Britain’ and ‘How To Fill Your House For Free’ have recently grown in popularity due to showing ways of how to recycle items or to find a new use for them. It is making the public more aware of the ethos of reuse and recycle.
It encourages the public to embrace their creativity and make their own gifts. A number of designers and artists such as Orsola De Castro and Charis Williams have also all tried their hands at recycling, by turning used products into attractive garments, accessories or household furniture. This all may seem daunting at first but all you need to do is to try and stick by the ethos of re using and recycling. Simply strive to minimize new purchases, refurbishing or up cycling your existing items in whatever way they can serve you best. The result of these different ranges of media is that it is making the public more aware of reusing and recycling. It encourages the public to embrace their creativity and make their own gifts. What can be better than creating a gift for your friends and relatives and seeing their smile when they receive it? As you have made it, it means you have taken time to think about it and have dedicated time to producing that item which is personal and unique.
The essentials Equipment that will come in very handy, if you don’t have these items you will not be getting very far.
Pinking Shears These are expensive but you will only need one pair for life.
Tailors Chalk Great for drawing temporary marks onto fabric.
Pinking Shears These are expensive but you will only need one pair for life.
Tailors Chalk Great for drawing temporary marks onto fabric.
A Quick Unpick Also known as a seam ripper. Don’t attempt to machine sew without some, perfect for undoing your mistakes.
Needles If you don’t have any needles you not going to get far, available from your local haberdashery shop or local supermarket.
Pins A must have for temporarily attaching fabric together. When choosing pins get ball head pins, not only are they colourful but if you drop them you can easily see them.
Thread Cheap as chips but useless if you don’t have a needle.
Don’t forget Not quite ‘the essentials’ but not far off, requirements that are recommended. To have a successful day of up cycling or artistic day here are a few tips, not quite the essentials but not far off. These handy pointers will help you along the way.
1. Food, from sweet treats to healthy snacks whatever it may be. But if you are planning to indulge in a up cycling project you will need nibbles to keep you on track. 2. Kettle, not only for the use of a good cuppa but can be a reliable friend for helping turning up fabric. 3. Lighting, squinting at trying to thread a needle is painful and not good for your looks. Have a good light to improve vision and stop premature aging. 4. A table, ideal for laying down fabric. If you haven’t got a big enough table the floor will prove more than adequate. But just make sure that it is clean! 5. Pin cushion, you will not want to get these little buggers stuck in your fingers or feet. If you don’t have a cushion get a tin that will help eliminate painful encounters.
Don’t forget Not quite ‘the essentials’ but not far off, requirements that are recommended.To have a successful day of up cycling or artistic day here are a few tips, not quite the essentials but not far off. These handy pointers will help you along the way.
1. Food, from sweet treats to healthy snacks whatever it may be. But if you are planning to indulge in a up cycling project you will need nibbles to keep you on track. 2. Kettle, not only for the use of a good cuppa but can be a reliable friend for helping turning up fabric. 3. Lighting, squinting at trying to thread a needle is painful and not good for your looks. Have a good light to improve vision and stop premature aging. 4. A table, ideal for laying down fabric. If you haven’t got a big enough table the floor will prove more than adequate. But just make sure that it is clean! 5. Pin cushion, you will not want to get these little buggers stuck in your fingers or feet. If you don’t have a cushion get a tin that will help eliminate painful encounters.
Feeling shirty? Do you have an old shirt that you never wear that just stays hanging up at the back of your wardrobe? Here are a few simple steps to change that shirt that is never worn into a blouse.
Easy follow instructions for a none sew shirt into a blouse. 1.Firstly turn the shirt inside out, and find the stitching that is closest to the cuff of the shirt. This is the stitching that you need to unpick. 2.Once you have unpicked the stitching on both sleeves turn the shirt inside out again (as if you were going to wear it). 3.Now if you pull the shirt a little where you have unpicked the stitching you will see the holes from the needle and the thread. Use these needles holes as a guideline to cut the sleeves off. It is recommend to cut in-between the hem of the shirt and the holes. 4.After you have cut the sleeves off don’t throw them away as they will come in handy for scraps of fabric and the buttons will come in handy too. 5. Unpick the stitching then cut the sleeves off, this means that there is no sewing needed. Your revamped shirt is now a item that you really want in your wardrobe, and you have created a fresh new look from an old shirt.
‘FASHION DOESN’T HAVE TO BE HIGH-FASHION. WHAT YOU WEAR IS YOUR FASHION’ ~ Anya Weitzam
3
ways of wearing a shirt
Dress like you deserve to be noticed wherever you are. In the workplace? Dress like you want a promotion in these office-bound looks, or going shopping, flaunt your look on the high street. Be the talk of the office and your friends for all the right reasons. Everyone has that one classic shirt, whether it is coloured, patterned or just a basic plain white shirt, it is an item that everyone has in their wardrobe. Undoubtedly a classic, it has a tendency to look sometimes a bit boring, but here are a few stylish alternatives of how to wear the classic shirt or blouse.
Firstly you can go for an open style shirt. Good for a causal look, wearing it with a long sleeve top underneath keeps it fresh and still looking sleek. Feeling a little chilly in the colder months, wear with a jumper to keep warm. Make sure the collar and the bottom of the blouse can peek out, just for fun. Buttoned up, for a smarter look. Depending on whether you want it buttoned right up or just done as far as the neck it’s totally up to you. Add a statement necklace to go even further to transform your look. Or grab a piece of good quality ribbon and loop it under the collar of a blouse for a cute loose bow-tie. Thirdly, tie at the front for a twist to the conventional way of wearing a shirt. By tying it at the front it completely changes the look of the shirt. Ideal for the warmer months combine with a pair of shorts. Your new shirt is now the staple of your wardrobe. Whether it’s buttoned up, tucked in, tied up, or let loose, shirts can look polished, casual, or playful, depending on how you style them.
‘TAKE THE TIME TO LEARN HOW TO SEW AND MEND. SEWING MACHINES ARE VERY EXCITING OBJECTS AND ONE CAN BE VERY CREATIVE WITH ONE'S CLOTHES’ ~ Orsola De Castro
Feeling daring? Want to go further than just creating a blouse from a shirt? Well here is a guide of how to add a cut out section either side of the collar.
Ralph Lauren | 1967 | White Shirt
Let’s get dressed up Have you got an old oversized shirt or is a friend throwing one out? Well this is a perfect way of creating a dress out of a shirt. Alternatively if the shirt is small you can make it into a top by following these instructions.
1.Firstly turn the shirt inside out, and find the stitching that is closer to the cuff of the shirt. This is the stitching that you need to unpick. 2.Once you have unpicked the stitching on both sleeves turn the shirt inside out again (as if you were going to wear it). 3.Now if you pull the shirt a little where you have unpicked the stitching you will see the holes from the needle. Use these needle holes as a guideline to cut the sleeves off. 4. Now its time to create an elasticated waist. Get a section of elastic and measure around your waist. Make the elastic slightly tighter than you need it, as it will be holding up the material.
the marked elastic reaches the middle of the shirt. By marking both the material and the elastic it ensures you sew exactly half of your elastic onto each side of your shirt. 8. Begin sewing slowly with a straight stitch onto your elastic. As you sew, check that you are attaching your elastic to the line you marked on the fabric. Continue sewing your elastic to the line until you come to the other side of the shirt. Now you’re ready to step out in your new shirt dress, ideal for wearing at festivals with a pair of sandals and a trilby hat or just rock this dress as a cool and casual day dress. It’s totally up to you!
5. Fold the elastic in half and with some tailors chalk make a mark of where the points are. 6. Draw a line from one side to the other on the shirt where you want the elastic to be. This ensures that the elastic will be sewn in a straight line. 7. Position your elastic over the line on your shirt. Put the sewing machine foot and needle down on top of them. to secure the elastic and material. With your right hand, gently pull the elastic towards you so
‘THERE IS AN INTEGRITY IN UP CYCLING, AND WE RESPECT THE EFFORT THAT PEOPLE PUT INTO MAKING QUALITY GOODS FROM EXISTING PRODUCTS. IT'S INNATE IN US AND I DON'T THINK WE'LL GO BACK TO THE THROWAWAY BEHAVIOR.’ ~Madeleine Boulesteix
Levi’s | 1873 | Shorts
Who wears short shorts, we wear short shorts This is all about the shorts whether you’re going for short shorts or high waisted shorts, do it in denim. Don’t go out and buy a new pair when you have that hidden pair of flared trousers from the 80’s. This is a perfect opportunity for updating those out dated jeans into a new desirable pair of shorts.
This has to be the quickest and simplest way of creating a pair of shorts. 1. Choose a pair of jeans that you no longer wear or like the style of as jeans. 2. Try the jeans on and mark where you want the shorts to be on you. Remember if you want to turn the edges up on the shorts cut a little below where you want the shorts to be to allow room for them to be turned up. 3. Take the jeans off and cut along the mark you made. If you want them turned up fold up the edge, alternatively if you want a frayed edge pull out some of the loose threads. If you want to go further and accessorize your shorts you can bleach your shorts, distress them or add a patterned material to the pockets for a unique look.
Collars up Collars still cut it, so keep them. Whether their peeking out of your slouchy new-season knits or statement sweatshirts, still wear them. Revamp an old collared shirt by going crazy with fabric, go grunge in 90’s check or silky in a soft luxurious silk.
This is an easy way to embellish a collar and update an old item into something new and fashionable. You can also go further to embellish your item by applying fabric to pockets and cuffs of sleeves. This doesn’t just apply to shirts; you can do it on pockets of jeans or even straps of bags. Not feeling a fabric? Try out buttons, beads or sequins. 1. Lay out your chosen item that has a collar, this can be a shirt or a blouse with a peter pan collar or whatever you want to embellish. 2. Get your chosen fabric and lay it over the collar. It’s best to be bigger than the collar as you can always cut it down afterwards but you can’t make it bigger. 3. Pin the fabric to the collar. 4. Now there are two ways of attaching the fabric to the collar. The first option is to glue the fabric to the collar with fabric glue, if so it is recommended to use copydex. Lightly cover the fabric as if it is applied too thickly it will seep through the fabric. The alternate way is to sew the fabric to the collar, pin the fabric and sew around the edges of the collar. Choose whatever you feel most comfortable to you.
Let's talk hemlines: No matter whether they're dropping down low or riding high, your skirt obsession can be satisfied with this skirt edit.
1. To begin, turn the trousers inside out and cut to the length that you desire for your skirt. This method works best for a knee-length pencil skirt or a shorter skirt. Remember to cut a few centimeters below the chosen length to leave room for adjustments. 2. Unpick the hem around the crotch area and inside leg. The trousers that are used in this tutorial didn’t have a zip but if your trousers or jeans have a zip unpick and cut up to the zip. 3. Iron out the seams so that the fabric is as flat as possible, and over lap them. 4. Pin the fabric together and try it on. By doing this it means that you can see the fit of the skirt and eliminate any weird bulges in the fabric to get a perfect fit. 5. After making any adjustments if needed, sew the seams back together. It would be recommended a straight stitch and zigzag stitch to stop the material from fraying. 6. Once you have sewn the seams it is time to pin and hem the bottom of the skirt. Who would of thought that you could find a use for those pair of trousers or jeans. Whether it is a pencil or mini skirt that you have gone for, dress up for an evening look with a smart top and a pair of heels, alternatively wear with a oversized t-shirt for a casual look.
‘A GOOD SERMON SHOULD BE LIKE A WOMAN’S SKIRT: SHORT ENOUGH TO AROUSE INTEREST BUT LONG ENOUGH TO COVER THE ESSENTIALS.’ ~ Ronald Knox.
Snip snip.. No this isn’t about the new hair do, can’t decide on what do to with that maxi dress? Don’t throw it away and buy that dress which is the right length. Fashion is going back and forth from maxi to midi so here is a simple option to use that unworn dress. The perfect solution, chop the maxi dress into a midi dress or even shorter and then use the excess material for a skater skirt. Ideal for a new season wardrobe staple.
1. Get a section of elastic and measure around your waist or hips depending on where you want the skirt to be on your body. Make the elastic slightly tighter than you need it, as it will be holding up the material. 2. Fold the edges of the material inwards to have a clean finish to the skirt and pin. Depending on the width of the elastic that you are using depends on how much you fold over the material. 3. Once folded pin and sew, but make sure that there is enough room to thread through the elastic. Remember to leave a gap to allow you to thread the elastic and sew. 4. To thread the elastic through the skirt pin one end of the elastic to the skirt and then with a pencil attached the other end of elastic and secure with sellotape and thread. 5. Push the elastic all the way through until it reaches the other end. To secure both ends of the elastic it is recommended not only to straight stitch but also sew a zigzag stitch to make sure that the ends are fully secured. 6. With the gap that was left to thread the elastic through you need to sew up the gap so you can’t see the elastic running threw the inside of the skirt. If you prefer to have a longer skirt or a maxi skirt you can still follow these steps to create the style that you want. Or go all out with leather material to make a pencil or skater skirt. If your feeling daring you could also incorporate pleats in midi and mini style. You now have a perfect handmade item of clothing for summer, with a pair of sandals for a cute look or for the colder months wear it with a pair of tights and ankle boots.
Check-mate Tartan is a girl’s best friend, update your wardrobe with checks. Never going out of fashion as checks are a classic. Whether their mellow greens or vibrant reds, go preppy with a pinafore for this season look.
One-piece, two-piece Oh so easy-to-wear all in ones, but want to take it to a whole new level? Go two piece with a pair of super cute floaty shorts and a sassy cropped top.
1. Firstly unpick the sides of the dress where the elastic is attached to the top part of the playsuit. 2. Using crimping scissors cut above the elastic where you have unpicked the sides to separate the shorts from the top of the playsuit. If your playsuit doesn’t have an elastic waist all you need to do is cut the fabric where you want the shorts to sit on your waist. 3. Once separated fold over the edge of the shorts and pin ready for sewing. Do the same to the top of the playsuit edge if you would like to wear it as a top. 4. Sew to create a clean finish.
‘UP-CYCLING, REMAKING SOMETHING TO A SUPERIOR VALUE. I EITHER EMBELLISHED EXISTING ITEMS, SUCH AS CROCHETING AROUND A HOLE IN A CASHMERE CARDIGAN, OR I CHOPPED OLD GARMENTS INTO SOMETHING ORIGINAL.’ ~ Orsola De Castro
Super soft touch Silky and soft to touch this material is to die for. An item that is never warn but is going to be transformed into a new item that is desirable and wanted.
1. Separate the layers of the skirt. 2. Using crimping scissors cut the layers so that you have three separate pieces of material. 3. Fold over the edge where you used the crimping scissors and pin. Sew up the edge to create a skirt. 4. Using a white t-shirt pin the fabric to the t-shirt and try it on. Measure it up against you to make sure you get it in the right position that you want it to be. 5.Once you have got the bottom section of material in the right position sew together with a straight stitch. Now you have made your very own tea dress out of an old skirt material and a t-shirt.
WE LIVE IN A DISPOSABLE SOCIETY. IT'S EASIER TO THROW THINGS OUT THAN TO FIX THEM. WE EVEN GIVE IT A NAME - WE CALL IT RECYCLING. ~Neil Labute
Trash is treasure Make use of those scraps of materials that you have by using them to make a skirt. This is a perfect example of not throwing away any odd pieces of material as you can always make something with them.
The scraps of material that are being used are material from the maroon trousers and from the white oversized shirt. With the maroon material it was not wide enough to make into a skirt so used the sleeves of the white t-shirt as side panels to increase the width so it would fit. 1. For this skirt it is going to have side panels, which will be using the spare white t-shirt material. 2. Fold over the edges of the material and pin. You should use a zigzag stitch to secure the material to have a clean edge and this will eliminate any frayed edges. 3.Now the edges of the material have been sewn with a zigzag stitch, line up the material and slightly overlap and pin. To secure the materials together to create one whole piece of fabric sew the sections together with a straight stitch. 4. Once the separate pieces have been all attached try the skirt on. If it fits then that’s great if not you need to alter it. Depending on how you want your skirt to look there are many options that you can do to alter it. Ways that you can secure your skirt is that you can use a button and create a buttonhole, add a zip in or use elastic to create a elastic waist. The choice it totally up to you!
Bibliography Lovingly cut and altered from the following sources: Asos magazine Sustainable fashion and textiles, Kate Fletcher Fashioning fabrics, Polly Leonard Textiles and fashion, Jenny Udale