Project Realisation.
S A M U E L
S H E P H E R D
Project Realisation • 1
Lascivious.
Nichole de Carle
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Extracting shape and structure from contemporary lingerie design.
Marlies Dekkers
Project Realisation • 2
Brainstorm.
Habitat Charley Harper
Pheasant
Eric Stanton
Taxidermy
In Art
Anatomy
Designer Collections Historical References
Bird Illustration
Lingerie
Birds Markings
Game Shooting
Richard Lindner
Inspiration.
Trainer Court
Species
Shoe boot Range.
Key Dates.
Ballerina pump Brogue style Sandals
Hand In: 23rd May 2011
Spring Summer 2012 2011.
Attainable
Brand.
Project Realisation
Humour Quality
Peep Toe
Develop Opportunity
Experimentation 2D - 3D
Contemporary Wearable British Distinguishable
Material Development
Inform Design Two Single Prototypes (min)
Engage with PPD’s Realised Final Product
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Nichole de Carle
Zimmermann
Marlies Dekkers.
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Marlies Dekkers
Marlies Dekkers Project Realisation • 5
Marlies Dekkers
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Like the idea of a double strapped back piece
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Manipulating extracted lingerie forms on the last with initial ideas.
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Loose fit straps and straps as details.
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Asymmetric designs.
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Curved rounded lines meets sharp and straight.
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Sleek block shapes and round curvaceous lines meet straight sharp line.
Richard Lindner - Erotic Pop Artist.
Lines from the upper continue into the heel to give the look of continuation.
Project Realisation • 17
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Strap details taken from Lindner’s paintings. (See sample box for sample).
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Suspender fastenings are unique detail, but are not really suitable for footwear. A Sam Brown style fastening would give a similar effect.
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An oversized plastic bra clip offers another interesting detail. There is little space for adjustment however.
Appliqué pieces stitched onto the upper add striking shape and angular lines. Your eye is drawn in various directions.
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Leather lacing.
Cross laced style.
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Lingerie lace detailing from corset styles.
Multi directional detail lines and leather lace.
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Suspender belt with multiple straps and Sam Brown fastening.
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Sam Brown fastening stud. Metal loop adds to the saddlery style.
Fleet Ilya
Stitch-less appearance, piece could be held together with rivet studs.
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Leather bondage wear from London based Fleet Ilya. Saddlery style finish in heavy stitch-less less veg tan leather.
Fleet Ilya - corset.
Gum Tragacanth - Burnished.
Suede and Nubuck require an acrylic dye as burnishing can damage the upper. Acrylic dyed edging is show below in this Michael Kors example.
Red Spirit dye - Gum Tragacanth - Burnished.
Mustard spirit dye - Gum Tragacanth - Burnished.
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Veg tan leather with burnished edges polished and treated. (see product development file for samples).
Black spirit dye - Gum Tragacanth - Burnished.
Project Realisation • 21
John Brill - Modernist Bird’s.
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Layered uppers with contrasting round lines and sharp straight edges.
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Shoes with tails.......
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Wing shaped.
Double layered.
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Natural History Museum Tring.
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Last and toe shape development.
John Spinks - Photographer
Project Realisation • 25
Heel pitch and angular lines gives the appearance that the shoe leans back.
Heel manipulation, playing with positive and negative space to give the appearance of a slanted pitch without affecting wearability.
Sharp angles direct the eye to the back of the shoe.
Heel within a heel.
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Heel extends off the back.
Clay prototype heels experimenting with form and pitch on the last.
Heels drawn to scale to help mould the shape over existing heels.
Sharp square cut.
Sleek 10mm platform, adds height but remains wearable.
10mm
Heel extends off the back of the shoe adding to the extreme angle.
Positive and negative space in contrast colour will highlight sharp lines and angles.
Project Realisation • 27
Heel, wedge and platforms.
Changing the angle of the seam between the two contrasting pieces either draws the eye forward or back. Heel covering in contrasting colour to highlight select areas.
Straight lines down the wedge give a higher appearance.
Angles are fluent throughout the shoe.
Project Realisation • 28
Photographs of taxidermy Pheasants for colour and pattern research.
Pantone Pantone Pantone Pantone Pantone 4365C 5265C 703C 1685C 498C
Pantone Pantone Pantone Pantone 7510C 1265C 618C 7403C Selection of colours taken from the Pheasants plumage.
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Pheasant feathers plucked from the birds will be used to form patterns and choose colour ways.
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Photoshop created patterns.
* Too patchy.
* Too smaller detail.
* Too complex, loose the feather detailing. Project Realisation • 33
* Like this print. It’s sleek and sharp meaning it will fit well with the current concept.
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Nice subtle print.
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Pantone 517C
Pantone 310C
Pantone 166C
Pantone 512C
Pantone 34995C
Pantone 636C
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Pantone Pantone Pantone Pantone Pantone Pantone Pantone Pantone Pantone 4365C 5265C 703C 1685C 498C 7510C 1265C 618C 7403C
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The Deep Print Movement are a London based studio who specialise in printing on leather. They agreed to sponsor the project with the selected prints initially printed as samples on a variety of leather types. (SEE DEVELOPMENT FILE FOR ACTUAL SAMPLES)
1. BROWN CHROME TANNED LEATHER 1.Effective look, but colour is overwhelmed by the actual brown colour of the leather.
2. CREAM CHROME TANNED LEATHER 2. Works well with colour showing through and pattern definition.
3. PATENT BROWN LEATHER 3. Patent leathers do take the ink effectively, however the ink does run slightly giving a slightly blotted appearance.
4. Suede is not effective as the ink absorbs to easily into the skin and the pattern is faint. Deep Print advised that final prints should be done on a non treated leather such as veg tan as the ink can penetrate the skin. A sealant is placed on top to preserve the pattern and stop it reacting with glues and heat etc.
4. BROWN SUEDE.
Project Realisation • 37
Patterns to go through to colour up the selected final range. I like the repeated, sleek appearance of this print fitting with the sharp lines of the initial ideas.
Marked patterns represent colours that are working for me initially.
This sample print was tested for the effects of glues such as neoprene and heat that it will go through in the making process. The finishing coat that is added to the prints stops any effect that might occur. As the print is ink based, it is absorbed into the skin meaning there is no distortion when pulled and lasted.
Project Realisation • 38
Last Development -
Natural History Museum Tring.
John Spinks - Photographer
Last 105123 - Fariforme Italy Heel- 110mm Sourced Lineapelle
Last is too extreme for the Samuel Shepherd brand. The heel height is too high and the toe a very elongated point. Need to source a last that resembles a beak shape but more wearable and commercial for a mid market customer.
Project Realisation • 39
Last 1514 - Spring line Northampton Heel - 90mm
Last 1514 was sourced on a trip to Spring Line last manufacturers in Northampton. Taken from their stock of lasts the style is more commercially viable for the Samuel Shepherd brand. It has a wearable heel height that supports the customer research within the concept development. The toe resembles a beak shape that is pointed but is not too extreme so not to affect wearability.
Last SL2286 - Spring line Northampton Heel - 10mm
Last SL2286 is a formal shaped last from Spring Line. This continues the beak shaped style. The mid market price point of the Samuel Shepherd range means the most cost effective way to source lasts is from a suppliers stock as having own designed lasts made has high development costs which will significantly affect the final price.
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Trainer Last suitable for vulcanised sole unit. Slender feminine toe.
Last Fashion Sport - Spring line Northampton Heel - 10mm
Last SL9679 - Spring line Northampton Heel - 96mm
Versatile last for sandal or closed style. Wearable heel height.
Mid height last with slender rounded toe.
Last Amy - Spring line Northampton Heel - 70mm
Last 1091 - Spring line Northampton Heel - 10mm
Sandal last for flat styles.
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Initial Ideas.
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Range Selection and edit.
Sandal Selection.
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Court Selection.
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Boot selection.
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High Sandal Selection.
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Work / Peep Toe Selection.
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Trainer Selection.
Formal Selection
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Further Range Development.
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Further Trainer development.
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Print is common.
High tops are versatile pieces for both summer and winter.
Not subtle design.
Developing a trainer for a fashion conscience consumer is something many luxury brand and high street brands are currently doing. They generally have a mix of trainer styling like vulcanised sole units, but with a high fashion element, such as the material, print or embellishment choice.
Project Realisation • 74
Range Edit 2. Formal Sandal - mid, high, wedge.
* Make this style and develop as a prototype.
Formal - 1 x closed style.
* Edit straps to looped Sam Brown Style.
Range needs to be further edited to a final collection of 12.
* Remove brogueing from formal style as it doesn’t work wit the rest of the range.
Trainers - 1 x high top.
* Select one style and refine further, Project Realisation • 75
Boots - 1 x ankle.
Courts - mid, high, wedge, work.
* Change strap to looped Sam Brown fastening.
Flat Sandal- 2 x flats .
Project Realisation • 76
* Edit back detail and slot.
Colour Realisation.
Pantone Pantone Pantone Pantone Pantone Pantone Pantone Pantone Pantone 4365C 5265C 703C 1685C 498C 7510C 1265C 618C 7403C
Pantone 517C
Pantone 310C
Pantone 166C
Pantone 512C
Pantone 34995C
Pantone 636C
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Colour palette from the initial research shown on sketches in order to edit a more refined palette.
Deep Print Samples.
Black and brow mix, Pheasant inspired.
Too much colour affects wearability.
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Works effectively on just the platforms and heel.
Highlighting the back section.
Colour contrast to highlight varying areas of the style.
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Print within the upper will be kept minimal as it is quite intense.
Tonal styles work well, particularly in a formal style with more subtle details.
More elaborate styles don’t work as well, although the highlight sole is a nice feature.
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Highlight colours draw attention to the strong angular lines giving the appearance that the shoe slants backwards.
Shoes all in one colour add a commercial aspect to the range and should be included in colour options for each style.
Colour variation can occur with leather manipulation such as polishing and adding a wax finish.
Project Realisation • 80
Colour edit and Leather sourcing. After experimenting with colour on some of the styles, the palette has been edited down as there were too many options. Leather samples are sourced from various suppliers to match the palette. A fresh grey colour has been added as the color ways are heavy and needed lifting with a clean tone.
Pantone 729C
Alma
Pantone 110 U
A&A Crack
Pantone 1815C
Stefania
Stefania
Too blue, needs to be more muted to fit with the rest of the colours.
Pantone 7526C
Del Chienti
Pantone 611C
Del Chienti
Pantone Cool Grey 4C
W.R - Nubuck
Pantone Black
Tempesti
The highlight palette will be kept and used only as highlights for the feather print.
Like this veg tan leather, has a nice natural quality. Source more Tempesti for a more cohesive leather selection
Edited highlights.
Pantone 517C
Pantone 310C
Pantone 166C
Pantone 512C
Pantone 34995C
Pantone 636C Project Realisation • 81
Pantone Black
Pantone Black 2C
Pantone 533C
Pantone 7526C
Pantone 731C
Pantone 729C
Pantone 110 U
Less harsh blue.
Nubuck
Conceria Stefania
Walter Reginals
Suede
Back of the leather resinated to order by Tempesti.Means the shoe can be unlined with a well finished backing.
The colour palette has been refined by sourcing the majority of the leather from Tempesti in order to have a cohesive look that runs through the range. I like the natural quality of the veg tan leather then supply and the ability to treat it with finishes, in order to change it’s appearance. Softer Nubucks and suedes add more delicate options that can be combined with the veg tan to give contrast. The palette is now more muted in appearance so not to be too outlandish. The prints add an interesting element to the collection in the highlight colours to give more energy in what is a Spring Summer collection.
Project Realisation • 82
Nubuck
A&A Crack
Alma
Tempesti Maine Liscio (veg tan, cow shoulder)
Linings. Anilux Stefania.
Lining Nappa from supplier Stefania. Darker article 4724 for darker upper styles.
4724
Lighter article 4720 for lighter styles.
4720
Samuel Shepherd brand identity colour ways. Lining materials to go with these tonal greys.
Pantone Cool Gray 4U
Pantone 110 U
Pantone 7526 C
Pantone 310 C
Pantone 166 C
Pantone 453U
Pantone 729 C
Tonal brandy brown and dark sand colours have been added to the feather print in order to allow for more subtle print options.
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Product Realisation.
The sections where the lace is threaded need tough stay tape behind them in order to keep the shape.
Inside.
Initially one whole cut piece. Loops added to stop distortion when strap is adjusted.
Outside.
Project Realisation • 84
The low cut of this style means that the counter stiffener could be damaged when the shoe is put on.
Back section added to make the strap more secure and stop the low cut upper from collapsing at the counter.
The strap on the inside is too loose and would not hold the shoe on without the additional back piece.
Project Realisation • 85
Sleek feminine style with delicate two eyelets.
Closer cut toe cap.
Wider cut.
The original drawing doesn’t work on the last.
This issue is resolved with a slotted looped section in which the straps comes through.
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Concealed elastic on both sides.
The shoe is fitted with elasticated straps.
Could be elasticated in this section.
This strap needs securing to the upper as it fits quite loose.
Project Realisation • 87
These design features need to be backed with tough stay between the upper and lining in order for them to hold their shape.
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Beak Shaped toe pieces.
John Spinks - Photographer
Contrasting colour highlights lines and shape.
Double layered piece. Last looses some of its shape due to the bulk. Top piece would need to be a split quite thin in order to retain shape.
Project Realisation • 89
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Sandal development from original sketch to final prototype.
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Shoe boot prototype colour ups with print and colour positioning experimentation.
Brandy print and veg tan with polished toe cap.
Black and brandy veg tan with vermillion orange print.
Black and brandy veg tan with brandy print.
Polished brandy veg tan upper and contrast non polished toe with vermillion orange print.
Brandy veg tan, polished toe and vermillion orange print.
Brandy and black veg tan with vermillion orange print.
Brandy and veg tan with polished toe and brandy print.
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Sandal prototype colour ups with colour and print placement experimentation.
Mustard cow hide, sand Nubuck and mustard print.
Mustard cow hide and sand Nubuck.
Mustard cow hide and sand Nubuck and blue printed cowhide.
Black veg tan, mustard cowhide and mustard print.
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Sock Samples (see product development file for actual samples)
Stitching is wider at point 8 in order to highlight the detail.
3D prototypes all have logo’s printed using Magic Touch heat transfer paper.
The logo rotated on its side looks awkward.
In order to keep within the clean, sleek and minimal stitching used in the uppers I think this sock version works best.
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Square sharp lines meet the curved lines of the sock in keeping with the cut of the uppers.
Printed sock patterns are an interesting feature but I want to keep the pattern print minimal.
S A M U E L
S H E P H E R D
An embossed logo is actually not possible due to the over lapped letters in the logo emblem.
S A M U E L
S H E P H E R D
Project Realisation • 94
S A M U E L
S H E P H E R D
The Samuel Shepherd brand is about the finer details and these sock details add to this.
Nero Woody.
The soles were chosen as they are high quality resin with the feel and appearance of leather. They are more practical than leather and more cost effective.
‘Ghost sole’ when using an abrasive wax the top darker layer is removed revealing a lighter contrast colour underneath. Colour options work well with the colour palette as they are muted tones.
Noce Cinnamon.
Ghost Natural
Ghost style sole.
Ghost Ghiaia
Ghost Brandy.
Prialpas is an Italian based sole supplier which was sourced in Lineapelle.
Noce Talco.
For production Prialpas can pre shape and finish the soles and send them to the factory using the patterns produced for each individual style.
Project Realisation • 95
Laser cut details into the resin.
Various cut shapes.
Stitch detail and lines that follow the structure of the shoe.
Split two part sole joined with resin stitch.
Project Realisation • 96
Formal styles require qualities that are generally found from such styles. At the price point they will be produced at, it is unlikely a authentic welted shoe construction will be obtainable. Therefore blank stitching where the stitch is merely for detail achieves the same appearance.
Strong sharp lines are repeated in the sole ideas.
As the trainer is a less formal style I think it would be interesting to have a quirky design that adds to the selling features of the shoe.
The feather print on the sole works quite effectively in the trainer, but would not consider it in the rest of the range, particularly in the higher heels where the sole would be on show.
Project Realisation • 97
un
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.
s ec t
ion. Blank or false stitching gives the appearance of a higher quality finish.
i Natural resin sole with res
. detail
n. io sect ed
ch tit s n
d logo.
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Las e
Laser cut sole units show how trainer or flat styles may look.
with geomet resin ric ut d e tai rc l an
Stitched sole follows previous stitched details in the uppers taken from the lingerie and corset ideas.
Resin sole with laser cut
Strong lines follow the contours of the soles.
k stitch fo r f o blan rmal styles.
Resin sole with
ith blanked
ole in s res
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Resin
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stit c
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Final Line up and colour stories. Monal.
Amerherst.
* Brandy. Ruffed.
Bar-tailed.
* Papaya. Ringneck
Imperial
* Naturale. Argus
Cheer
* Nero. Project Realisation • 99
Cape.
Crested.
Hume.
Mikado.
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As there are a number of colour ways, the range features three colour stories. Other colour options are available for each style with a mix of commercial and more elaborate colour choices. Two colour options will be available to the client/ buyers in order to provide them with options and create an appropriate range for their customer and image. Samples and press pieces will be made in the colour ways shown in the line up in order for the customer to see the range and colour ways available.
Project Realisation • 100
Shoe boxes and marketing material.
Colour ideas.
300mm
110mm
* Standard shoe box size.
Size will vary depending on style particularly in winter with long boots. In keeping with the initial Samuel Shepherd brand concept, nothing is too heavily branded.
180mm
Pantone 446U Gravel.
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Shoe box lid above with printed logo. Each box will be made from recycled card in keep with the companies positive approach to stainability.
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Each pair of shoes comes with a non branded shoe bag. These are produced by Grafitex, an Italian based company who produce eco dust bags. Cost price - â‚Ź0.68 Pantone 453U
(Prototype dust bag will differ in colour.)
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