DISH

Elevated Takes on Comfort Food Classics

Home cooking hacks plus 5 indulgent San Antonio dishes

BY CLARISSA R. ABREGO

hile sales of organic and unproW cessed foods were on an uptick in recent years, the pandemic has proven one thing: comfort is king.

According to Food Industry Executive, a food industry news site, snack food consumption was up 8 percent this spring (compared with only a 1 percent increase during the Great Recession), sales of frozen foods like pizza had increased by as much as 80 percent in March and data indicates packaged food sales—things like mac and cheese, desserts and soup—will have risen by as much as 30 percent from 2019.

But just because you may be reaching for a convenient comfort food option a little more often, doesn’t mean there aren’t still plenty of ways to serve an elevated entrée.

Chef Sofia Tejeda, who represented San Antonio in Food Network’s Girl Scout Cookie Championship, says when it comes to baked goods, home cooks can substitute milk for water and butter for oil in boxed cake mixes to achieve a fluffier, tastier dessert. Or, experiment with zests or extracts—lime, lemon or orange into a vanilla cake mix—to make your pre-packaged treat stand out.

When it comes to savory foods that consumers often reach for as the weather turns cooler, Tejeda says the most important thing to think about is your “anchor ingredients.” That means if you’re adding veggies to your mac and cheese or brisket to your bag of Fritos, opt for fresh, high-quality ingredients. And when your creativity runs dry, consider one of these elevated comfort food options from local restaurants.

Jalapeño Mac & Cheese at Myron’s Prime Steakhouse

It’s creamy, cheesy and has just the right amount of South Texas jalapeño and New Mexico green chile. Rather than shells, Myron’s uses elbow pasta, which means cheese oozes from inside of the shell with each bite. General manager Patrick Ross says it’s their No. 1-selling side and also stands just fine on its own. It’s never too hot, never too weak and always has the same great taste. 10003 N.W. Military Hwy. 210-493-3031, myronsprime.com

Poblano Soup at Picnikins Cafe & Catering

General manager Brianna Esmeralda says Picnikins poblano soup features a cream base mixed with roasted poblanos and chicken stock for a perfect balance of kick and velvety smoothness. Order it alongside a classic grilled cheese for the ultimate comfort food feast or take it home and use it as a salsa or topping for green enchiladas. Esmeralda says it’s meant to be versatile, so you set the limits. 5811 University Heights Blvd., 210-2365134; 6901 Blanco Road, 210-616-0954, picnikins.com

Bacon Wrapped Quail Poppers at Boiler House Texas Grill & Wine Garden

Few things spell comfort like bacon. In this dish, chef Jarrad Gwaltney wraps it around house-made pickled jalapeños and quail on a mini-skewer before topping it with the restaurant’s house Green Goddess dressing and a touch of chili oil. It warms the body during cooler months and is refined while still plenty indulgent. 312 Pearl Pkwy., Bldg. 3, 210-354-4644, boilerhousesa.com

Chopped Beef Frito Pie at Alamo BBQ Co.

When you can’t decide between a snack or a meal, the crew at Chef Jason Dady’s Alamo BBQ Co. deliver. Fritos are loaded with top-of-the-line chopped beef, sour cream, cheese and chives. Order it to go or dine-in while listening to live music every Friday and Saturday. 511 E. Grayson St., 210-994-8099, alamobbqcompany.com

Buttermilk Biscuits by Chef Sofia Tejeda

Whether a slider, biscuits and gravy or simply with jam, nothing elevates breakfast entrees like a well-made biscuit. Chef Sofia Tejeda, whose baked goods are available for order online, says she uses just six ingredients—butter, buttermilk, sugar, flour, salt and baking soda—to make the simple yet classic staple. “When they’re warm, they just break apart in your mouth. I mean they are so, so, so good,” she says. They’re fluffy, buttery and so tasty you won’t be able to stop with just one. sofiatejeda.com