56 minute read
Geeky Ganja Gardening ››
from 1205
by SoftSecrets
Growing marijuana is part art and part science. In some ways, gardeners are very artistic: like a conductor in front of an orchestra they guide their plants from start to harvest, listening for off notes signaling something isn’t right. On the more scientific side, there are ways to take written notes to show how productive a garden is, and some simple math can be helpful. Grubbycup
The most basic form of record keeping is noting what varieties were grown. Which strains have you attempted, and which are your favorites? When sitting down and making a wish list for the season, it’s helpful to know which varieties you’ve
tried. For instance, I’ve had good luck in the past with Blue Widow, which is a White Widow and Blueberry cross, so I know to at least take a look at those crosses – even if they are named something else (such as Berry White or Blueberry Widow). When looking for new varieties, you can select something similar to a known favorite, or intentionally try something completely different than you have in the past.
A somewhat more labor intensive and scientific record is how much was harvested; for example, 57 grams (two ounces) of Purple Lady, or 170 grams (six ounces) of Super Critical Haze. Even if individual plants aren’t tracked, calculating how much each plant averaged is simple: just divide the amount harvested by the number of plants. If two Super Critical Hazes produced 170 grams, then they averaged 85 grams (three ounces) apiece.
This information can be used next season when selecting how many seeds to plant. If the goal is to have eight ounces of
smoke at harvest, and your garden tends to produce two or three ounces per plant, then you would need four similar plants taken to harvest. If using standard seeds about half will be males and discarded, so double that number to eight. I recommend planting a couple more as a safety net, as harvesting extra plants tends to be an easier issue than not having enough.
Figuring out how many standard seeds you need to plant in order to get at least one female can be important when ordering from seed banks. It all focuses on probability. A single seed usually has two possibilities: to either be male or female (with the exception of hermaphroditism and inter-sex plants). Thus, each seed has an approximate 50/50 chance of being female. those combinations have a female plant in them, and three divided by four is 0.75, there is a 75 percent chance of one of them being female.
Three seeds have eight combinations: MMM, MMF, MFM, MFF, FMM, FMF, FFM and FFF. Seven out of the eight combinations result in a female plant, and seven over eight is .875, or 87.5 percent.
Four seeds have 16 combinations, 15 of which include a female for 93.7 percent. Five seeds is 31/32 for 96.8 percent, six is 63/64 for 98.4 percent, seven is 127/128 for 99.2 percent. Eight is 255/256 for 99.6 percent, and nine is 99.8 percent. Finally,
ten seeds will result in at least one female 1,023 times out of 1,024 or 99.9 percent. This is one reason why a standard breeder pack has at least ten seeds.
For expert level gardeners, here is a tip: gender and Mendelian genetic traits occur as one of two states, which make them very well-suited for binary mathematics.
Growing seasons in outdoor gardens can be easily compared, and harvests can be analyzed from year to year. Climates that allow for a spring and autumn harvest can be noted as simply ‘Spring 2012’ and ‘Fall 2012’, for example, with variety names and harvest quantities.
Indoors, seasons are a bit more arbitrary. Summer and autumn are set with lighting timers and other environmental controls. Short dark periods (six hours or less is
Grubbycup’s Stash is late-flowering, a cost consideration indoors
common) mimic the long days of summer, and long dark periods (usually twelve hours or so) reproduce fall lighting. Indoor growing seasons may be as short as nine weeks, or extended to several months – depending on how long the plants are
kept in growth, and how long the variety requires to flower.
To account for these differences, a time factor can be included into the calculations. Grams per day (GPD) allows for plants of different growing periods to be compared. Take the planting date and subtract the harvest date to find the number of days between. If plants were started
5/23/12, and harvested 9/29/12 the season would be 130 days (nine days left in May, 30 in June, 31 in July, 31 in August, plus 29 days into September).
If the Purple Lady example were used, then its average weight of 57 grams per plant could be divided by the 130 days it took to grow them, to show a GPD of 0.438 g (57 grams/130 days = 0.438 GPD). In the Super Critical Haze example, if it hadn’t ripened until sixteen days later, on October 5th, then the 85 grams would have taken 146 days. That would give a GPD of 0.582 (85 grams/146 days = 0.582 GPD). the harvest is spread out over a longer period of time. This is especially common in personal gardens that can produce small amounts for consumption every couple of weeks. By tracking individual plants, they can be compared against an
overall average; in that way performance can be tracked quantitatively.
In an outdoor garden, day efficiency concerns have more to do with working around the seasons: having plants with enough growth before flowering starts, getting a fast-flowering strain to harvest before the weather turns foul, etc. Indoors, however, lighting generally causes a high-
er operating expense, thus each day of electricity is a cost. Indoors, GPD is a valuable tool in comparing the efficiency of the grow (although art is still required to judge the quality of the flavor and effects). Production isn’t the only factor to consider – preference and quality should also be taken into account. If the flavor of a poor producer is preferred, then more plants may be needed to meet harvest goals.
Individual plants with high production rates are often particularly good candidates for breeding. Although production should not be the only factor in selecting parent plants, as long as there is not a reduction in quality, quantity is often considered a desirable trait. Once the base rate of production is calculated, it can be used in conjunction with other pieces of data for a variety of useful purposes – nutrients, growing media and other expenses can be taken into account.
A little math also comes in handy when making nutrient selections. The N-P-K listing on nutrients indicates the percentage by weight of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P) and Potassium (K). The ‘P’ actually indicates how much equivalent phosphorous pentoxide, and the ‘K’ how much equivalent potassium oxide, but usually that makes little or no difference.
What this means is that a nutrient solution made with a fertilizer having a value of 5-0-0, applied at fifteen mL per liter, should have the same nitrogen content as one with a value of 15-0-0, applied
at five mL per liter. It is the final amount of nitrogen in the nutrient solution that counts, not how concentrated the original nutrient was.
If nutrient A comes in a liter (1,000 mL) bottle, and is applied at a rate of five mL per liter, then there are 200 one-liter treatments in the bottle. If the bottle costs $20, then each treated liter costs ten cents. If nutrient B comes in a four-liter (4,000 mL) jug, and is applied at thirty mL per liter, then there are 133 treatments in a bottle. If the jug costs $40, then each treatment costs thirty cents. A difference of twenty cents per liter may not sound like much, but that is a dollar every five liters, which can add up over the course of a season, even feeding only once a week.
When deciding which to use in the future, it will come down to whether nutrient B is worth an additional twenty cents per treated liter. To find out, test a few plants using each nutrient. Record the nutrient expenses used to grow both sets, and calculate the GPDs at harvest. The more expensive nutrient should produce more – enough to cover the additional expense – to be considered worthwhile.
The same can be calculated for electricity and lighting costs. An examination of your electric bill should tell you at what rate you are charged, and that can be used to
calculate how much it costs per day to run the lights. Each additional 1000-watt light adds one kilowatt-hour (kWh) in electrical expense, plus the cost of the equipment and bulb replacements. If a change in gardening techniques improves something, keep the change. If it doesn’t, consider discarding it and returning to previous methods. To be cost-effective, improvements to the garden should result in document-able improvements in production or quality.
Purple Lady, putting on weight
Purple Lady, mid-flowering
reusing media. To find out how much, take the total expense for the garden during the grow, divide by the number of days in the grow, and compare to the GDP. Obviously the expense rate should be less than the value of the harvest, can be compared to cost, and future plans fine-tuned accordingly.
Although the finer points of rating a plant are largely artistic and subjective, responses don’t have to be. To set up a simple or have a friend do it. Mark each container with an arbitrary number or letter.
While smoking each sample, keep track of reactions from the weed in each container. Questions should include “Which do you like the best: A, B, C or ‘cannot decide’?” and “Describe the flavor of each”. Record and tally the results from all participating testers. After the tests have been completed, the envelopes can be opened and ‘top shelf’ tends to influence the reactions of the people who smoke it. Relabeling the smoke into something boring helps minimize the influence. If possible, the person handing out the weed shouldn’t know either, as their behavior can have an influence as well, which is why identical envelopes and containers are important.
The benefits of home growing include peace of mind, and knowledge of the
Long ‘daylight’ hours keep indoor plants in the veg phase
or serious changes are in order. While only the most avid of gardening geeks may calculate every plant in the garden, double-blind test, first find opaque, identical containers for each variety to be tested. Write the name of the variety on
this type of information can be valuable when comparing successes, and determining the value of a change in the garden. By comparing production rates before and after a change, improvement a piece of paper, and seal in an unmarked envelope. Put the sealed envelope into the container, with the matching (manicured) weed. Either mix up the containers until you no longer know which is which, Track your garden’s performance by calculating GPD
associated with their corresponding letter, revealing the true identity of each sample.
Why go to the trouble of a blind or double-blind test? Because humans are very suggestible, and some variety names sound better than others. Weed labeled conditions under which the crops were cultivated, but that doesn’t mean that they can’t also be grown with a nod to efficiency and expense concerns.
Peace, love and puka shells, Grubbycup
Dutch General Elections, 2012
On September 12th, 2012, the Netherlands electorate voted overwhelmingly for the two main parties, the VVD and the PvdA, effectively dis-empowering the anti-Europe fringe parties, including Geert Wilders’s Party for Freedom (PVV). The two parties combined have a majority in the lower house, but must invite other parties to the coalition to achieve a majority in the Senate; neither party wishes to be allied with the deeply controversial PVV. Kali Mist
The majority gained by the country’s largest party, the VVD (People’s Party for Freedom and Democracy), gives new uncertainty to the campaign to curtail the infamous Wietpas (‘Weed Pass’) law before it comes into full effect in January, 2013. The VVD specifically advocated for the Weed Pass in its election manifesto, and was behind its introduction in the first place. However, there is some hope that the anti-Wietpas PvdA may ally itself with smaller coalition members in an effort to halt the legislation, possibly by ‘trading’ with other disputed policies.
The Association of Dutch Municipalities (VNG) announced its opposition to the Wietpas the day after the election; two days later, the city of Rotterdam also expressed deep concerns, citing a fourfold increase in drug-related crime in Maastricht and other southern cities in which the Pass is already enforced. It remains to be seen whether these objections can achieve the desired result of suspending the unpopular legislation. Public support for the pass is low (© Ivesone)
Blue Fruit by Dinafem
The Marvels of Silicon
What does the word ‘silicon’ make you think of? Computer chips or, more likely, porn star tits? How about a beneficial supplement for your plants – one that will make them bigger, stronger, more resilient to pests and disease and capable of yielding more bud? There is more to this element than you may have thought.
The Benefits of Silicon
The addition of silicon to your feeding schedule can have an incredible effect on the growth, yield and overall health of your beloved ladies! But, how does it actually benefit your plants? Let’s break this process down into bite-sized chunks:
* Improved Plant Cell Development: Once your plant uptakes silicon, it is permanently deposited into the
cell walls within twenty-four hours. These deposits form a silica-cellulose framework that is stronger and can be created more quickly than it could have been without the inclusion of silicon. Overall, the plant can develop faster and grow more rapidly when it uptakes silicon. Put simply, plant cell walls are like brick walls in a house. When silicon is taken in by the plant, it is used like cement in a brick wall. So, the walls are built faster and stronger.
Once the ‘cement’ is in place, it cannot be transported elsewhere within the plant, so it is important to continue to add silicon throughout the entire growth cycle. This will ensure that all new growth in the plant benefits from the effects.
* Balancing Uptake of Elements: The presence of silicon in a nutrient solution can positively affect the uptake and absorption of several macro- and micronutrients. Silicon increases zinc uptake, an essential element in growth and photosynthesis.
In soil, silicon increases the availability of nitrogen to the plant, as its application will reduce the loss of nitrogen to ammonia – a naturally-occurring process in dirt. Nitrogen is key in the vegetative stage of plant development as it promotes healthy new foliage growth.
What is Silicon?
Here is the science bit, so pay attention: silicon is the second most-common element in the Earth’s crust – only oxygen is found in a greater abundance. silicon takes the form of sand (silicate dioxide) and more commonly as sheet silicates. These are compounds containing silicon, oxygen and an additional metal or mineral, and there are literally hundreds of different variations of them forming over ninety percent of the Earth’s crust.
Silicon extracts itself from these sheet silicates in the form of monosilicic acid; this is how it is made available to plants. Soil water – runoff from naturally occurring soils – can contain around 400 ppm of silicic acid, which is absorbed by plants. Studies of tissue taken from plants grown in naturally occurring soil show a silicon content of up to ten percent of their dry weight. In some cases, silicon can be found at the
same percentage as calcium, magnesium and phosphorus. Certain grasses can even contain silicon at a higher percentage than any other mineral.
It is widely regarded and agreed that plants require seventeen key elements to successfully develop. These are comprised of macronutrients: nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, calcium, magnesium and sulfur; and micronutrients: iron, manganese, boron, copper, molybdenum, zinc, chlorine and nickel. The obvious elements are carbon, hydrogen and oxygen.
However, with silicon being found in such abundance in plant tissues, there is now an argument that it should be considered as a relevant macronutrient. Silicon: Don’t leave your plants without it
Growing Without Silicon
First of all, let’s avoid confusion and get one thing straight: it is widely accepted amongst the wider growing community (by that, I mean our community and that of commercial horticulture) that silicon is not deemed an essential element for healthy plant development. As stated earlier, it is not one of the seventeen key elements that are required for healthy growth and bloom.
However, when plants are grown without silicon, they run the risk of being structurally weaker than plants grown
with it. They may be more open to attack from fungal pathogens and pests, and can also be more vulnerable to any toxic metals that build up in the root zone.
If you have ever grown hydroponically and thought that your plants seemed a little weaker or more susceptible than previous crops grown in soil, it may be due to a lack of silicon. Hydroponic feeds do not contain silicon in any viable quantity, if at all. The reason for this is that for silicon to stay soluble, it requires a high pH – greater than seven. Therefore, it cannot be included in a normal, hydroponic two-part feed as it would react with
the other elements present, and this would be very likely to lead to a nutrient deficiency.
For silicon to be used as a viable additive for your plants, it needs to be kept separate from the basic feed. You could even think of it as your ‘third’ part, to go alongside your usual twopart feed.
How Does a Plant Use Silicon?
Plants can only absorb silicon in the form of monosilicic acids; these occur naturally as mineral silicon (silicate sheets) are broken down and dissolved into water. In hydroponic applications, the most common form of silicon additive is potassium silicate.
Once absorbed, silicon is transported to where it is required by the plant’s transpiration system. It is deposited as either hydrated silicon dioxide (which effectively stores water molecules within the plant) between the plant cells, or as silica (a gel-like substance) within the walls of the individual plant cells.
Silicon effectively ‘builds’ the plant, acting as the cement between the bricks in the cell walls or between the actual cells themselves. It increases the structural integrity of the plant, making stems and branches thicker and stronger, and leaves greener and tougher.
White Rhino on day 49, grown with Plant Magic Bio-Silicon
Silicon also balances the uptake of phosphorus, reducing the risk of toxic levels being taken in by the plant. This is a particularly helpful characteristic to all you home growers who like to use
a concentrated bloom stimulator – or root stimulator, for that matter – with a high P-K value.
* Protection Against Metal Toxicity:
Silicon is known to compete for uptake against certain metal elements that are made available to the plant. These metals include aluminum, manganese and iron, all essential for plant growth, but an excess of availability of any of the three elements can be problematic for your plants.
If there is a silicon deficiency around the roots, then plants can uptake these metal elements to toxic levels. This can lead to problems that are not only detrimental to yield, but are also quite difficult to diagnose. So, you could go all the way through your grow without rectifying the problem, and be seriously depleted on yield at harvest time.
By increasing the dose of silicon available to your plants, there will be a corresponding increase in the deposits of silica in the cell walls and silicon will compete against the metals available in the nutrient solution, preventing toxic build-ups. Therefore, adding silicon to your feeding schedule protects against metal toxicity. * Maintain Cell Integrity and Plant Strength: This is one of the more obvious effects of adding silicon. Your plants will be visibly stronger, with wider, thicker stems and branches.
The wider the stem, the more uptake and transpiration of water and nutritional elements is possible. In theory, the plants will grow bigger and at a faster pace.
Also, from a practical point of view, the thicker branches will be able to hold more weight without the need of additional supports. How many times have you gotten to the fourth or fifth week of flowering and realized that you haven’t put enough support in place to keep your buds stable? This will be less of a problem when using silicon.
* Protection Against Pests and Disease: This is a really fantastic benefit – particularly for home growers who prefer not to spray their plants with pesticides or fungicides. The protection that silicon offers against fungal pathogens is two-fold: 1. The silicon that has been deposited in the cell walls effectively toughens the outer ‘skin’ of the plant. This makes it far more difficult for pathogens to penetrate the plant in the first place. The toughened outer skin also reduces the risk of infestation from sucking insects. 2. If a plant is attacked by a pathogen (for example, powdery mildew or pythium) the plant will transport and deposit any silicon that it uptakes to the area of attack. This then stimulates the production of anti-fungal compounds that halt the infection process.
* Overall Increase in Weight and Bulk:
Plants grown with silicon will have leaves that are darker green, increasing their potential for photosynthesis and better growth. This, together with wider, stronger branches and stems and resilience to disease and pests will ultimately lead to bigger yields.
How to Apply Silicon to Your Plants
Like most feeds and supplements, silicon can be administered to your plants in two ways. You can mix it with your
regular nutrient feed and administer to the roots. This is relevant to the soluble silicate additives. Or, spray onto your plant as a foliar feed.
Worldwide, there are a number of silicon supplements and additives available. Most good and knowledgeable grow shops should be able to point you in the right direction if you are after a silicon product. Keep an eye out for the following products, as they may be available in your area.
Technology and probably the most
well-known and widely available silicon additive in the UK. Commonly used as ‘pH up’ with added benefits. additive that can be added to hydroponic nutrient solutions. tive from the Canadian company,
Advanced Nutrients. Soluble enough to be used in a hydroponic nutrient application. ic silicon additive from a UK-based company, suitable for organic growers. Too thick to add to a hydroponic nutrient solution; however, can be used as a foliar if you are growing hydroponically. actual growing medium. Made from fossilized shells of algae (diatoms) it consists of up to ninety-four percent silica, which is released throughout the full growth cycle. No need to add a silicon supplement with this medium.
Now that you’re aware of the powers of silicon, don’t ignore its value. Regardless of your growing technique, you will benefit from using a silicon compound as an additive. As a soil grower, you may be introducing silicon to your plants in the form of silicates found within your soil mix anyway, but by feeding an additional silicon compound either directly into the soil as a drench, or as a foliar spray, you will give your plants extra protection against fungal infection and pest attacks – not to mention thicker, stronger stems and branches.
Hydroponic growers, using a straight A+B feed, plus root and bloom stimulators, are unlikely to be feeding their plants any silicon whatsoever, as regular hydroponic feeds do not contain it. This lowers protection against fungal and pest problems, as well as your plants being potentially weaker and less stable than a plant that has been provided with silicon. If you have concerns about adding a soluble silicon compound to your nutrient solution (blocking drippers and delivery sys-
tems, and increasing the pH of your solution) simply feed it as a foliar spray.
Remember, silicon is the cement that that sits between the bricks in the cell walls of your plants. Once it has been deposited it will not move around inside the plant, so it’s important to continuously feed silicon throughout the entire life cycle. This will ensure that all new growth in your plants benefits from the effects.
FOR PHOTOSYNTHESIS AND BETTER GROWTH.
Munchie Hunting: Trying New Things
It happens to many vipers: they roll a nice, fat joint, inhale deeply... and a while later the idea of food sounds incredibly good. This phenomenon is known as ‘the munchies’, and is an oft-cited benefit of Cannabis for those with diminished appetite problems. Exotic foods in particular can be very sensual, exciting – and occasionally, very funny. As with all food, moderation is the key, so spread out indulgences responsibly. Much of the enjoyment of food comes from the first and last bites; most of the calories come from the bites in between. Grubbycup
While there are plenty of American foods that can meet the salty, sweet, crunchy and chewy needs of a mellow hungry human, there are also delights from foreign lands that can be discovered with a little effort and daring. Some exotic munchie hunts may require a degree of bravery. For example, one of my favorite munchie hunting grounds is a fantastic nearby Asian market. When I visit, it is as if I am in a foreign land, where I am not only illiterate but unable to speak the simplest of phrases. Gentle reader, if you haven’t tried it, I highly recommend a well-mellowed visit to the largest local ethnic market in the area. Every country has its own peasant-junk food, so why not expand your palette as you expand your mind? My local Asian market has an entire aisle dedicated to ramen of various flavors – some delightful, some horrific – and little or no English printing to guide the uninitiated shopper. Racks hold bags of inviting sweet and salty treats, the likes of which have never graced the shelves of the average American supermarket chains. Discover chocolates and sweets of unusual forms and flavors, plus new meats and vegetables to try and explore (albeit occasionally necessitating Internet research to learn how to prepare). One tasty favorite of mine was found during such a trip: there is a wonderful grape juice with grape chunks in it that I have a weakness for, only sold in Asian markets, and of which I buy a case when I find it. There is a Russian market near my house that makes an exquisite halva, and delightful hunter’s sausage. At a nearby shop, wonderful Polish walnut cookies can be had for those who know to ask for them. I know what you are thinking, and yes, I’ve encountered my fair share of flavors that did not agree with me. You have to take the bad with the good; however, embracing the best from other cultures was an American tradition long before ‘billions and billions’ of the same burger was served.
With all the standardized fare that makes up so much of the average American diet, it is nice to occasionally break out of current habits and try something new. For those brave enough for a little adventure, go out of your comfort zone by trying some new way to sate your hunger. Stop off at an interesting-looking ethnic market, and hold a munchie hunt of your own.
Peace, love and puka shells, Grubbycup
Roadrunner II
Dinafem
by Grubbycup
Environment: Indoor room Grow Light: 1,000-watt MH Flower Light: 1,000-watt MH Method: Passive hydro Nutrient: FoxFarm Days in Growth: 35 Days in Flower: 36 Harvest Weight: 36 g wet, 12 g dry Grams Per Day: 0.169 Structure: Single cola Bud: Tight Scent: Mild, spicy, peppery Rating: 7 / 10
can be helpful when growing outdoors out of season or if using indoor lighting without a timer, and is also a way to grow some smoke in your vegging room.
However, be careful you do not waste any time during growth, as if they have not grown to a fair size during veg, flowering will be disappointing. It isn‘t difficult, but you can‘t let them go an extra week or two before flowering if they are a bit small, as you can with non-auto (or normal-flowering) plants, so there is less margin for error in a slow start.
Roadrunner II is an improved version of the well-known Roadrunner line. Dinafem sells its seeds neatly packed in Eppendorf vials. The seeds I received were all plump and healthy-looking, and sprouted quickly in starter plugs. Since I did not want to delay growth by transplant shock, I planted the plugs directly into their final containers.
Roadrunner II has the auto-flowering trait, which causes the plants to flower even when not exposed to a long dark period. Thus, there is no need to alter the lighting from the growth part of the cycle in order to trigger flowering. This Roadrunner II on day 70 Regardless, for a fast path to some very smoke-able weed with a minimum of fuss, this strain is worth taking a look at trying. The good news is that Roadrunner II is an easy cultivar to grow, so I didn‘t have any trouble getting them up to size before they started to flower.
The plants were grown in perlite, and fed the ‚FoxFarm‘ line of nutrients. Pots were placed in trays and watered by hand.
Roadrunner II grows thick stems, with consistent form, and a natural tendency for a single large cola. The first flower appeared at 35 days; the buds were firm and tight, with a nice regular structure. Both growth and flowering were done under a 1000-watt metal halide bulb. Roadrunner II on day 76
Finished height was 40.2 inches (102 cm). Dinafem advertises 65 to 75 days from seed to harvest – my sample took 71 days. It is the fastest auto-flowering cultivar I‘ve grown so far, well-suited for an impatient grower.
The flavor was mild and pleasant, without the unpleasant taste some of the older cultivars with the auto-flowering trait have. Smoking it results in a mellow high, with a nice balance between ‚up‘ and ‚couch-lock‘.
Dinafem‘s seeds are feminized, so there is no worrying about having to sex the plants. Overall, Roadrunner II is a nice experience and a worthwhile grow.
Cloning for Beginners
Ever wished that your new crop behaved in the same way as your last? Or wondered if there was a way to predict how they will react and develop within your specific growing environment? There is a way: cloning.
Unlike humans, plants have the ability to grow missing parts, because every cell within the plant contains the genetic information required to re-grow any part of the plant. Given the right conditions, stems can grow new roots, leaves can
grow stems and roots, and roots can grow stems and leaves – incredible!
You will have experienced plants regrowing missing parts whenever you
have pruned or topped your own plants. Pruning creates stress for the plant that triggers a hormonal response, leading to a flurry of new growth.
Cloning is commonly done by taking cuttings. A small portion of stem and leaf is cut from the mother plant; then, the cut stem is dipped in a rooting hormone – usually a powder or gel – and grown on.
A healthy, rooted clone
IF YOUR CROP IS MADE UP ENTIRELY OF CLONES FROM ONE PLANT, THEN THEY SHOULD GROW IDENTICALLY AND BE READY TO HARVEST AT THE SAME TIME.
How Plants Reproduce
Plants can reproduce in two ways: sexually and asexually. Sexual reproduction involves growing plants from seed. The seed will contain genetics from two or more plants. Just like in humans, the dominant genes will win out and the new plant will contain characteristics from the ‘parent plants’. In humans this dictates eye color, facial features and height. In plants it dictates resistance to disease, yield capability and growth rates.
Cannabis seed banks work long and hard to ensure that positive characteristics – such as strong growth, THC content and uniformity – are dominant amongst the seeds that they sell. This ensures that the seeds you buy yield plants that are close to the description on the packet. Ultimately, though, each seed has the potential to be slightly different to another.
Asexual reproduction involves making an exact copy of the main host. Plants produced asexually will contain exactly the same characteristics as the mother plant, because they are a genetic copy of that plant. A well-known example of asexual reproduction occurring in nature is strawberries. Strawberry plants can reproduce by sending out ‘runners’: a long, vine-like branch that produces nodes and eventually roots itself near to the mother plant. Lots of plants that don’t send out runners (including our favorite plant!) can also reproduce asexually. This is done by cloning.
So, what exactly does cloning involve? Put simply, it involves taking cuttings from the mother plant which, when rooted and grown, will replicate the same genetic characteristics as the mother. If you have a plant that is displaying favorable characteristics like strong horizontal growth, resistance to disease – or you simply want to grow another crop of that plant again because it is reacting favorably to your
growing environment – then take some cuttings, and clone it.
The Benefits of Cloning
with a particular plant and take cuttings from that plant, you know that the clones will
react to your growing environment and input in the same way as the original plant. You will be more likely to replicate your previous success. entirely of clones from one plant, then they should grow identically and be ready to harvest at the same time. There is no need to move them around under lights because they are all at different heights, or postpone your harvest date as you wait for a few plants to mature. rooted out, it is ready to transplant and go into the vegging room. Propagation time is far shorter than when growing
from seed; you can save yourself up to two weeks. In fact, some growers using hydroponic techniques such as aeroponics or NFT will take large numbers of clones, root them, place them into the hydro system and give them a couple of days to adjust, then switch straight to flower for a ‘Sea of Green’ (SOG). tain strain and don’t want to risk losing it, keep a mother plant from which to take cuttings. Some original strains are clone-only and (if you want the original) therefore must be raised from clones.
How to Clone with Cuttings
Cloning is far simpler than you might think, and it is as relevant to the smallscale gardener cultivating four plants for him- or herself as it is for the commercial grower with 50 lights.
First, select the plant you want to clone. The plant needs to be in good health and free from pest infestation or disease. If you pick an unhealthy plant to clone from, you’re screwed from the start! Remember that clones taken from a diseased plant will be carrying the same disease as the mother.
Once you have selected your plant, look for areas of new growth. New growth is the best for cloning as it tends to be softer and less ‘woody’, and so should root quick-
er – although any healthy stem with a couple of leaf sets will work. Also, ensure that the mother plant is well hydrated, as plants that are dry will not yield a healthy cutting.
Another important factor is the stage of growth. When you take a cutting, that cutting is at the exact same stage of the plant life cycle as the mother plant it was taken from. If you take a cutting from a flowering plant, then that cutting is in the flowering stage and will continue to flower! It’s possible to switch the plant back to the vegetative stage by growing it under 18 hours of light (or preferably more); however this can stress the plant and lead to growth issues. It is much better to take cuttings from plants in the vegetative stage before they are switched to flowering or, even better, keep a mother plant in a perpetual state of vegetation and use this as your source of clones.
Don’t take cuttings from, or attempt to clone, an auto-flowering plant; it will be flowering as it roots out, which causes developmental issues and – more importantly – it can yield very little.
One of the most important factors in taking cuttings is hygiene. A new cutting is vulnerable to pathogens entering through the open tissue at the base of the stem. Using dirty tools or working in a dirty environment is a surefire way of introducing fungal or bacterial pathogens to your clones. Make sure that you spend an extra few minutes cleaning your cutting tools and cutting area and you will be rewarded with healthy cuttings that root quickly.
then it is very important to maintain the correct levels of moisture in the medium and humidity in the air. Use some form of propagator, even if it’s just small plastic bags placed over each
plant. A heated propagator with a lid is best, as the warmth stimulates root growth and the lid maintains humidity and prevents the medium from drying out. Use the vents in the lid to ensure that the environment isn’t too moist as this can cause rot or ‘damping off’. It is a balancing act, but give it a few tries and you’ll master it!
Hydroponic cloning machines maintain the moisture balance for you and take out some of the guesswork. They involve placing the cuttings into neoprene collars and then into small baskets, which are suspended above a nutrient tank. The stems are misted with the nutrient solution and root out faster than in traditional propagation methods. You can save yourself three to five days using a cloning machine. They can range in size from spaces for a few clones to over 100, and the better ones on the market come with a lid.
Cloning Top Tips
spray with a nitrogen-based foliar feed, one or two weeks before you are due to take your cuttings. This will ensure that there is plenty of healthy, new growth from which to select your clones. your main growing area. This will prevent any airborne pathogens present in the main room from entering your new clones. Remember that healthy, mature plants may not show any sign of disease, but pathogens may still be present. pel or razor blade, a container of water at pH 5.5 - 6, rooting hormone, a clean mat and your propagation medium or cloning machine.
complete with a few leaves; cut just below where the leaves join the stem (this ‘internode’ is where your clone will produce roots) and place the cutting into the container of water. Repeat until you have all your cuttings. join the stem and just leave a few leaves at the top of the cutting. Remember that the leaves require energy to maintain them, and you want the majority
of the cuttings’ energy to go into root growth. So, if the leaves on the cutting are quite large, cut off the tip, about halfway down the leaf. Less leaf area requires less energy to maintain it. base of the stem diagonally, ensuring the blade is very sharp – this will avoid crushing the stem. pour an amount of powder or gel into a small container (or lid) to dip the cuttings. Don’t dip into the main container or you may contaminate your entire supply of hormone. Throw any excess gel or powder away, do not pour it back into the main container. gation medium and place it into a propagator. Roots will develop with three to
seven days. If using a cloning machine, slip the cutting into the neoprene collar and turn on the pump. Do not add nutrients to the reservoir until you see the first signs of root development, usually after three to five days.
So, there you have it – cloning is an easy way to ensure your crop is healthy, develops at the same pace and is ready to harvest at the same time. Plus, it’s good fun! Happy cloning!
Rooting hormones speed up the cloning process
How to Keep a Mother Plant
Maintaining a mother plant is fairly inexpensive and straightforward. A well-tended mother can be kept for a couple of years if treated correctly. plants need to be kept in the vegetative stage of growth on 18 hours (or even 20 hours) of light; this means they’ll need to be kept out of the flowering room. Grow tents are a great option as several plants can be kept in a light-tight environment close to, or even within, your main room.
ing that is at the blue end of the spectrum encourages vegetative growth, so if using an HID lighting system choose a metal halide bulb. If you’re only keeping one or two mother plants, a blue CFL lamp or large T5 propagation lamp will be more than adequate and will cut down on heat.
You can keep a mother for a long time if you wish, but long term plants will need a healthy root zone. If you want to hand-water, choose a light and aerated medium that won’t compact over time – such as cocos or a light potting soil. If you wish to use a hydroponic system, go for one that allows you to use inert clay pebbles – a drip feed system or ‘ebb and flow’. This will ensure that there is plenty of oxygen around the roots. rich grow formulation will be required as your base nutrient. Make sure you use an enzyme product periodically to break down old roots and keep the root zone clean.
Blow to Go
O’Riodon
A while back, I was working in India during monsoon season. A volunteer was needed to fly to Europe to pick up equipment; I jumped at the chance. My destination was London, but using an existing ticket I flew first to Amsterdam. As it was a lot of equipment, I called a friend and arranged for him to meet me with a rental car.
I arrived at six A.M. on Air India, all curried out and severely jet-lagged – certainly not in any mood to drive. I asked my friend if he would like to be my chauffeur, and he agreed.
A couple of hours later we were heading south to the cross-channel ferries. It was a nice sunny morning and I was sitting in the passenger seat surrounded by newspapers, watching the Dutch countryside pass by. In need of a little relaxation, I pulled a small ball of Afghani hash I’d picked up in India out of my pocket, and fired up a pipe. My chauffeur asked me in horror, “You’re not carrying dope, are you?”
I replied, “Don’t worry, it’s only a couple of grams.” Actually, it was ten.
We shared the pipe, and by the time we reached the French border we were pretty ripped. I dozed for a while and woke up close
to the ferry terminal. I handed my friend the passports and he arranged the tickets, then it was off to the loading dock. I settled in my seat, sipping a coffee and reading the newspaper. Suddenly the car stopped.
I looked up: in front of us was a row of French customs agents. A large, fat one gestured for us to get out the car. A little jet-lagged and still stoned, I really didn’t sense any potential danger and was only annoyed at the delay. I rolled out of the car amid a tsunami of newspapers and chocolate bars and stood up.
At that moment a young trainee appeared with a Doberman on a leash. Moving forward, the dog leaped into the car; my immediate reaction was to whack the dog with a rolled-up newspaper. “Hey, get it out, it’s got dirty feet!” The dog snarled at me and a uniformed arm reached out and pulled me back. Then the penny dropped. “Shit,” I thought, “this is a drug dog – I wonder how good it is?” I apologized and stepped back. I now had the ball of Afghani in my hand and was searching for a place to get rid of it.
My friend opened the hatchback of the car as instructed; the dog, meanwhile, had reached the back seat. It paused in its search and fixed its eyes upon me, the long, sleek head pointing in my direction, nose twitching. I worried, “Oh shit, is the hash that good?” and made yawning gesture, at the same time bringing my hand up to my mouth. In a not-so-subtle move, I popped the ball in. With a throat drier than a desert canyon, I swallowed. It took a huge effort, but fear played a large part.
Unfortunately, one of the customs agents saw me do it and lunged in my direction. Grabbing me by the throat, he forced my mouth open, but the ball was already heading south. Then all hell broke loose. The routine search turned into a vendetta, and when they discovered I’d arrived that morning from India, they started having orgasms. Panels started coming off of the car, and we were stripped to our underwear. I was getting some seriously dirty looks from my friend.
“What did you swallow?” they kept asking. “Nothing,” was my reply.
“Well, we’re not letting you go until you tell us.”
With the ball safely in my stomach, I called their bluff. “Okay,” I said. “Then I want the Consul and a lawyer.” Having found nothing, they had no choice but to let us go. Back in line for the ferry, I was desperately trying to make myself vomit. It had to come out – otherwise I’d soon be in orbit. Exhausted and sweating I wound the window down and flopped back in the seat, arm hanging out the window. At that moment the
dog handler came along the row of cars with his Doberman. Reaching our car, the dog smelled the Afghani residue on my hand and jumped straight through the window onto my lap! Having already searched us and found nothing, the red-faced handler had no choice but to pull the excited Doberman out of our car and walk away – in front of everyone. He was livid.
When we were loaded on the boat I headed straight for the restaurant. I had to vomit, so I ordered the greasiest meal they had, covered it in ketchup, mustard, vinegar, mayonnaise and ice cream and ate it really fast with a spoon, then washed it down with a quart of cola. The effect was almost immediate and explosive; I only just made to the restroom.
As I vomited in the sink I searched the puke, looking for the ball. Between violent fits of retching, I fished out lumps and held them up for inspection. The other passengers in the restroom must have thought me insane. Alas, I only found half of the ball, so by the time we landed in Dover the other half was starting to kick in. When we reached the hotel I could barely speak.
The next two days were a blur highlighted by lots of laughter, but somehow we got the equipment. We thought it better to return through Belgium, because the French didn’t have a sense of humor. It would be years before I traveled through a French ferry port again.
One of the pleasant things about a long journey is arriving and smoking nice, relaxing joint. Often, this means taking a little something with you, but if you’re cool it’s usually not a problem. Then again, when it does go wrong the consequences can be disastrous.
Welcome to France
Nice doggy... uh-oh Swallow this!
How to Care for Seedlings
Growing from seed is great: there are a vast range of seed banks to buy from and, unlike growing from clones, you get to choose the exact variety you want to grow – rather than relying upon whatever cuttings are going around at the time. Learning about germination over the winter will help to prepare you for springtime sowing.
The first ten days after germination can be the most crucial of your plant’s life. Just like a newborn baby, your girls are vulnerable to the elements and are totally dependent on you to give them the best start. Lots of growers (both new and experienced) lose plants at this stage, get disheartened and move away
from using seeds altogether. However, taking care of seedlings does not have to be difficult. Just follow a few simple rules and you will raise healthy seedlings, time after time.
Pre-Germination Tips
Some of the problems associated with bringing up seedlings can stem from the fact that not all of your seeds will germinate at the same time. For example, keeping the vents on a propagator closed while you wait for all your seeds to show can lead to the germinated seedlings rotting or ‘damping off’.
To avoid these problems, you may
choose to germinate or ‘pop’ your seeds before you plant them in their growing medium. This way you can be sure that you have selected the healthiest seeds, and will not be waiting around for the weaker ones to germinate.
There are a couple of tried and tested pre-germination methods: 1. Cup of Water: Take a cup of mineral water and leave it for a few hours to bring it up to room temperature. Put your seeds into the water and break the surface tension with a (clean) finger so that the seeds sink. Place the cup in a dark place that stays at a constant temperature, preferably between 66° to 75° F. Within 24 to 48 hours the seeds will have cracked and the tap roots will show. The seeds can be left in the water until the tap root protrudes a few millimeters, and can then be planted out. 2. Paper Tissue Method: Sandwich the seeds between pieces of damp tissue or paper towels and place them in an airtight container, zip-close bag or between two dinner plates, the top, upturned plate acting as a lid. Place in a warm, dark environment – an airing cupboard or on top of a fridge or DVD player – where warm air is constantly vented out. The seeds should germinate within 48 hours and can then be planted.
Ensure that you plant the seeds a few millimeters under the surface of your chosen growing medium with the tap root pointing down. Within a couple of days the seedlings will break through and you won’t be left waiting around for any runts.
Choose the Correct Environment
Without a doubt, the absolute best environment for a young seedling is a propagator. Seedlings need consistency in order to grow healthily; that means consistent temperature, humidity and air flow. A propagator provides this consistent environment. Any changes to these environmental factors need to be done as gradually as possible, to prevent shock, and it is easy to do this with a propagator.
In its simplest form, a propagator can be made from any material that allows light to reach the seedling and maintains a constant environment by trapping heat and humidity inside it. A clear plastic bag, set over the top of a pot and attached with an elastic band, forms a cheap-yet-effective propagator!
Your local hydro shop will stock inexpensive plastic propagators that comprise of a seed tray and a clear plastic lid or humidity dome. The lids often have adjustable vents that allow you to control the airflow and humidity levels inside the propagator. When seeds first germinate, you need to maintain humidity of around eighty percent – this is done by keeping the humidity vents
closed, which stops airflow and prevents moisture from escaping.
Once all seedlings are showing, gradually open the vents a little each day. This will increase the airflow and decrease the humidity (a process known as ‘harden-
ing off’), and gets the seedlings ready to be moved into the main room. It also prevents damping off. After ten days, the lid should be fully removed and your seedlings will be ready for transplanting.
The ideal root zone temperature for seedlings to develop is between 66° and 72° F. Keeping temperatures uniform across all seedlings will ensure that they develop at the same rate and are ready to transplant at the same time. This can be achieved by placing your propagator onto a heat mat or, if you are germinating lots of seedlings, investing in a heated propagator.
Use the Correct Light
Once your seeds have germinated and have broken through the surface of the growing medium, they will begin to photosynthesize and must have light for a minimum of eighteen hours per day.
Although it is certainly possible to start Cannabis plants on the windowsill using natural sunlight, this method has its problems – the main one being that the sun is not as consistent as a grow lamp. A hot, sunny day is difficult to plan for and you could return home to a windowsill full of wilted plants. Seedlings are vulnerable and can wilt within hours if the conditions are wrong. Direct sunlight can fry them!
If natural light levels are poor, the seedlings will stretch for light, leaving you with long, spindly plants that only develop small yields. Remember, if you are growing indoors, you need to maximize the available headroom under your lights. You need to keep plants short and squat until they are ready for flowering; otherwise, you are wasting space on long stems, rather than long buds! Why spend good money on seeds and then risk losing all of your plants on the windowsill? It makes sense to invest in some indoor lighting.
When plants are very small, excessive heat and light can stunt their growth or even kill them. For this reason it is not practical to start them under an HID lamp; you will certainly be wasting money if you do, as you will need to place the lamp a good distance away from the seedlings (so heat and light are not used efficiently and are, therefore, squandered). able for very young plants. The propagation lighting available from your local grow shop, such as T5 propagation strips or CFL ‘eco-lights’, will have an output in the blue-white spectrum; this encourages plants to develop roots and grow outwards rather than upwards,
and will see your plants through the propagation phase and into the early vegetation stage of growth.
These fluorescent lamps are cheaper to purchase and operate than HID lighting and, because they give off much less heat, they can be placed closer to your seedlings – so you waste very little light. A single, 24-watt T5 strip light will not cost very much from your local grow shop. This would cover ten to fifteen seedlings in a small propagator. Bargain!
Feed at the Right Times
Before planting your seed, your growing medium should already be moist, but not completely saturated. Peat or cocos plugs should be soaked in water until they are fully expanded and then allowed to drain overnight. If you are using rockwool cubes to propagate, soak them in a solution of quarterstrength nutrient that has had its pH adjusted to 5.5, and allow them to drain overnight before using. As discussed, the main objective when propagating your seedlings is to quickly establish a healthy root zone. To do this, it is good to understand the effects of watering the root zone.
Roots grow in response to depletion zones (i.e., outward to search for water and food). When a root has absorbed all of the available water and minerals in one area of growing medium, it grows outward to find more. This is how the plant fills the growing medium with roots. Therefore, it is essential to allow the growing medium to dry out before re-watering. This allows the roots to use up the majority of the food and water present.
When water and food is always available, the roots do not need to search out for them and the root zone will be underdeveloped. Obviously, it is very important not to over-water seedlings; however it is a balancing act, as underwatering will cause the roots to die back – this also limits development.
It is worth remembering that seedlings are tiny, and are unlikely to need any additional food or water for the first three to five days after germination. If in doubt, you can purchase a soil moisture meter to double check. A healthy little sprout in the dirt
develops after germination. Do not feed stronger than an EC level of 1.2, including background EC. Always stay on the cautious side with your feed, as it is easy
to give additional food if your plants need it, but very difficult to correct overfeeding with very young plants.
Learn to read your plants. As a general rule, if the lower leaves start to yellow,
they are hungry. If the edges of the leaves are brown or curling, they are over-fed.
Index of Ads
Name Page
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Dinafem Seeds 2
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Paradise Seeds 1
Pasquini Bini 31
Plagron 32
Seeds of Life 11
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As leaf sets develop, the plant exits the germination phase (© Shutterstock)
Transplant with Care
If you have started your seeds in a propagation medium such as rockwool cubes, peat or cocos pellets, then within ten days of germination they should be ready to transplant on towards the next stage. Even seeds started in a small
three-inch pot of soil or cocos will probably be ready to move up a pot size within two weeks of germination. The seedlings will still be vulnerable at this stage, so the main goal is to minimize transplant shock. For best results – and to minimize shock – transplant into the same growing medium that you started in: for example, seeds germinated in soil should be transplanted
to a soil pot, cocos to a cocos pot. This will speed up the time the seedling takes to root after transplanting.
The exception to this rule is rockwool, which provides an inert, sterile starting
block that can be transplanted to any medium. Each block is completely uniform to the next, so each seedling will grow consistently and will be ready to transplant at the same time.
Contrary to popular belief, when transplanting into a new medium, it is a good idea to not water on the day of transplanting. It is likely that the seedlings will have suffered some root damage when they
were transplanted; watering immediately can introduce pathogens into the damaged roots. It is best to wait until the next day and then water with a dose of plant stress reliever, such as SuperThrive. This will also help to prevent damping off. It is also worth mentioning that you can bury a plant up to the first node (or branch) when transplanting. This allows you to shorten the height of individual plants and ensures an even canopy. This technique can be done at every stage of potting-up.
Timing is key for successful transplanting – you want the roots of the seedling to have appeared on the outside of the propagation medium. Transplant too early and you can stunt top growth as you wait for the roots to fill out the medium. Transplant too late and the seedling may become root-bound in its cube, become dehydrated or begin to develop deficiencies. If your seedlings begin to yellow then they are in need of food, and need to be transplanted up and given additional nutrients.
Once seedlings have been transplanted into their new pots or cubes, they can be put back into the propagator for a couple of days before hardening off and going into the main grow room.
Label Up!
Labeling your seeds when you sow them is really a must. When growing more than one strain at a time, one thing that catches out even the most experienced of growers is forgetting which plant is which! No matter how good your memory is, after a couple of joints, that stoned visit to your grow room will inevitably lead to the seedlings getting mixed up.
Different strains may need different levels of feed, so it is well-worth remembering which is which. Use plastic stake labels rather than wooden ones, as they are easy to clean and reusable. In some instances, damp wood can harbor the larvae of certain grow room pests.
Colophon
Editor-in-Chief: Kristie Szalanski Editorial E-mail: Kristie@softsecrets.nl Contributors: Grubbycup, Kali Mist, Sativa Diva, O’Riodon, Little Lebowski, The Professor, et al.
Cover Photo: Macro shot of MK Ultra trichomes (special thanks to www.berkeleypatientscare.com) Comic: Hy’s Deli by oz.
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A word from the publisher:
To the chagrin of the US Federal Government, almost half of the states have embarked on a process of relative liberalization towards the use of Cannabis, and Cannabis activists are engaged in broadening this progression. Some townships, mayors and police chiefs – on a local level – now actively support a ‘compassion club’ distribution system as a way of separating recreational stoners from the people who legitimately need therapeutic help, simultaneously decreasing the number of unnecessary arrests.
Whether they are finding their way to the local medical distribution point or growing for personal stash, Cannabis users are a menace to no one and are causing no discernible social problem. Some politicians, and even more non-users than ever, are calling for the outright legalization of marijuana. Taxpayers are frustrated with funding the incarceration of first-time, non-violent drug offenders (read: pot smokers) as well as the social toll that high numbers of imprisonment brings to some towns and neighborhoods. Now we must be patient and see how the debate develops during a period of relative peace between both sides.
In the meantime, the publisher hopes Soft Secrets will expose the positive aspects of the normalization of Cannabis use to the public, and is excited to offer a forum to both pro- and anti-legalization advocates. Soft Secrets forums operate under the assumption that the publisher does not necessarily agree with the views and opinions expressed in articles and advertisements therein. The publisher therefore distances himself explicitly from statements or images that might give the impression that an endorsement is being made for the illicit use or production of Cannabis. Soft Secrets does not advocate breaking any laws, whether local-, state-, Federal or international.
Nothing from this publication may be copied or reproduced in any format without prior permission from the publisher and other copyright holders. The publisher is not responsible for the content and/or point of view of advertisements. The editors take no responsibility for unsolicited submissions.
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