EMBROIDERIES OF INDIA
I would like to show my gratitude to my mentor, Ms. Jui Karhadkar who guided me throughout in the process of craft documentation. I would also like to acknowledge all the people who have directly or indirectly helped me to compile my research and provide me with valuable resources. My heartfelt thanks to my college, ITM Institute of Design and Media for giving me an opportunity of undertaking craft documentation project, as a part of the curriculum for the forth semester.
ACKNOW LEDGEMENT
PREFACE This documentation is a result of an in-depth research on the craft form, Embroidery. It elaborates about the history of embroidery in India, techniques, materials, tools, etc used while doing embroidery. This documentation gives detailed information about different types of embroideries found in different parts of the country, along with some motifs and pictures related to them. Some embroidery designs are designed on adobe illustrator .
INTRODUCTION
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INDIA
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EMBROIDERY & ITS HISTORY
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TOOLS
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COLOURS & ITS SIGNIGFICANCE
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STITCHES EMBROIDERIES OF INDIA CHIKANKARI EMBROIDERY
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BIBLIOGRAPHY CONCLUSION
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PHULKARI EMBROIDERY
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KANTHA EMBROIDERY BANJARA EMBROIDERY AARI EMBROIDERY ZARDOZI EMBROIDERY
INTRODUCTION India is the only country in the world with an unbroken, living vibrant tradition of crafts. Indian art and craft culture is a vast accumulation of talent, skills, stories and teachings. These rich heritage and legacy made its way down from generations to generations with every generation adding its own aesthetic sense to it. Each and every art and craft form have their unique identity in the way it communicates a community’s identity and realm.Crafts have been interwoven with the culture of the people in India from the beginning of human history. Crafts have been an integral part of daily life in villages, towns, courts and religious establishments. Indian Craft forms have given employment to many across the country. The variety of crafts and craft skills available in India and their continuous development throughout the centuries make India a unique country.
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The craft form I decided to research, document and study is, Embroideries of India. Embroidery is the craft of decorating fabric or other materials using a needle to apply thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as pearls, beads, quills, and sequins. In modern days, embroidery is usually seen on caps, hats, coats, blankets, dress shirts, denim, dresses, stockings, and golf shirts. Embroidery is available with a wide variety of thread or yarn colour. Some of the basic techniques or stitches of the earliest embroidery are chain stitch, buttonhole or blanket stitch, running stitch, satin stitch, cross stitch. Those stitches remain the fundamental techniques of hand embroidery today. Embroidery in India includes dozens of embroidery styles that vary by region and clothing styles.
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INDIA India (Hindi: Bhārat), officially the Republic of India, is a country in South Asia. It is the second-most populous country, the seventh-largest country by land area, and the most populous democracy in the world. India is one of the oldest civilizations in the world with a kaleidoscopic variety and rich cultural heritage. It has achieved all-round socio-economic progress since Independence. India stands apart from the rest of Asia, marked off as it is by mountains and the sea, which give the country a distinct geographical entity. Bounded by the Great Himalayas in the north, it stretches southwards and at the Tropic of Cancer, tapers off into the Indian Ocean between the Bay of Bengal on the east and the Arabian Sea on the west. There are 28 states and 8 Union territories in the country. From the largest to the smallest, each State/UT of India has a unique demography, history and culture, dress, festivals, language etc.
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GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES The Himalayan mountain
Indo-Ganga plains
The geological regions broadly follow the physical features, and may be grouped into three regions: the Himalayas and their associated group of mountains, the Indo-Ganga Plain, and the Peninsular Shield. The Himalayan mountain belt to the north and the Naga Lushai mountain in the east, are the regions of mountain building movement. The Indo Ganga plains are a great alluvial tract that separates the Himalayas in the north from the Peninsula in the south. The Peninsula is region of relative stability and the occasional seismic disturbances aroung its region.
Peninsula
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CULTURE OF INDIA Indian culture is the heritage of social norms, ethical values, traditional customs, belief systems, political systems, artifacts and technologies that originated in or are associated with the Indian subcontinent. India is a country that boasts of a rich culture. The culture of India refers to a collection of minor unique cultures.
LANGUAGES Languages spoken in India belong to several language families, the major ones being the Indo-Aryan languages spoken by 78.05% of Indians and the Dravidian languages spoken by 19.64% of Indians. Languages spoken by the remaining 2.31% belong to the rurals. India has the world's fourth highest number of languages (447 languages).
Indian Languages
FESTIVALS
Ganesh Chaturthi
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India is a land of festivals and fairs. Being a multi cultural, multi-ethnic and multi-religious society, celebrates holidays and festivals of various religions. Each festival pertains to different occasions, some welcome the seasons of the year, the harvest, the rains, or the full moon. Others celebrate religious occasions, the birthdays of divine beings and saints, or the advent of the New Year. Popular festivals include Navratri, Janmashtami, Diwali, Maha Shivratri, Ganesh Chaturthi, Durga Puja, Holi, Ugadi, Vasant Panchami, Rakshabandhan, Dussehra, Pongal, Makar Sankranti, Onam.
INDIAN ART Indian art consists of a variety of art forms, including painting, sculpture, pottery, and textile arts such as woven silk. The origin of Indian art can be traced to prehistoric settlements in the 3rd millennium BC. On its way to modern times, Indian art has had cultural influences, as well as religious influences such as Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, Sikhism and Islam. Cave paintings from Ajanta, Bagh, Ellora and Sittanavasal and temple paintings are great examples. Indian architecture encompasses a sea of expressions over space and time.
Warli Painting
CLOTHING
Kurta and Saree
Clothing in India is dependent upon the different ethnicity, geography, climate, and cultural traditions of the people of each region of India. Male and female clothing has evolved from simple garments like kaupina, langota, salwaar kameez, lungi, sari, gamcha, and loincloths to cover the body into elaborate costumes not only used in daily wear, but also on festive occasions, as well as rituals and dance performances. India also has a great diversity in terms of weaves, fibres, colours, and material of clothing. Sometimes, colour codes are followed in clothing based on the religion and ritual concerned. The clothing encompasses a wide variety of Indian embroidery, prints, handwork on the clothes. 06
DANCE
Classical dances of India
Dance in India has an unbroken tradition of over 2,000 years. Its themes are derived from mythology, legends and classical literature, two main divisions being classical and folk. Classical dance forms are based on ancient dance discipline and have rigid rules of presentation. Important among them are Bharata Natyam, Kathakali, Kathak, Manipuri, Kuchipudi and Odissi. Indian regions have a strong free form, folksy dance tradition like Lavani, Garba, Bhangra, Bihu, etc.
THEATRE Theatre in India is as old as her music and dance. Classical theatre survives only in some places. Folk theatre can be seen in its regional variants practically in every region. There are also professional theatres, mainly cityoriented. India has a rich tradition of puppet theatre, prevalent forms being puppets, rod puppets, glove puppets and leather puppets (shadow theatre).
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Puppet theatre
MUSIC
Indian classical music
Owing to India’s vastness and diversity, Indian Music encompass numerous genres, multiple varieties and forms which include classical music, folk (bollywood), rock, and pop. It has a history spanning several millennia and developed over several geo-locations spanning the sub-continent. Music in India began as an integral part of socio-religious life. Music continues to survive through oral tradition being passed on by teachers to disciples.
CUISINE Food in India is wide ranging in variety, taste and flavours. Being so diverse geographically, each region has its own cuisine and style of preparation. Indian cuisine, renowned for its exotic gravies seems complicated for any newcomer. In Indian cuisine, food is categorized into six tastes – sweet, sour, salty, spicy, bitter and astringent. A wellbalanced Indian meal contains all six tastes, not always can this be accomplished. This principle explains the use of numerous spice combinations and depth of flavours in Indian recipes. Side dishes and condiments like chutneys, curries, daals and Indian pickles contribute to and add overall flavour to dishes.
Indian Cuisine
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Embroidery Work
EMBROIDERY & ITS HISTORY
Embroidery is done for making a fabric beautiful with colourful designs with the help of needle and threads. The word embroidery comes from the French word broderie, meaning embellishment. It may be used to embellish almost everything, from the smallest handkerchief to big home furnishing like even curtains or bedcovers. Different types of garments including that of children, furnishings, such as bed sheets, pillow covers, table cloth, wall hangings, etc. are embroidered to give a rich look. It is an art to express the creativity using different types of techniques, like beadwork, metal thread work, appliqué work, decorative thread work, cutwork, patchwork, zardozi work, etc. Embroidery is also known as ‘a painting with needle’. The art of embroidery is practised on different kinds of pliable materials, like cotton, linen, silk, wool and leather, which can be pierced with the sharp needle. History - In various forms, embroidery has existed since the production of fabric. While embroidery is practiced across the world, its origin stems from China and the Near East. It is the rich, worldwide tradition of embroidery which makes it such a fascinating craft. People have been decorating fabrics with ‘stitches’ for centuries which reiterates that embroidery is perhaps one of the most ancient needle crafts. Mostly, embroidered clothing, religious crafts and household textiles have been a mark of luxury and status in many cultures including ancient Persia, India, China, Japan, and Europe. In many different cultures, traditional folk methods of embroidery were passed from generation to generation. Many embroidery tools like needles have been found in excavations Embroidery was important and in the Medieval Islamic world because it was a sign of high social status in Muslim societies. In cities such as Damascus, Istanbul, and Cairo, embroidery could be found on items such as handkerchiefs, flags, uniforms, robes, horse trappings, pouches, and covers.
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COLOURS AND ITS SIGNIFICANCE According to Hindu tradition, colours are divided into Tamasic or that which arouses passions and Satvik or that which purify the soul and remove all desires. The dark colours are used to convey negative ideas, while light colours denote the positive feelings. The colours mostly used in folk embroidery are red, yellow, green, white, blue and black.
Embroidery Patchwork
Red is the dominant Tamasic colour and its varying shades of saffron to maroon are most popularly used. It is the colour of passion and fertility and is indispensable for the proper completion of day-to-day rituals. The figure of the Mother goddess due to its association with creative energy or Shakti is painted vibrant red. It is an auspicious colour worn by brides all over India. Yellow is the colour that gives most light. The golden yellow suggests radiance, being the colour of the sun. It is symbolic of supreme wisdom, enlightenment, and divinity and is commonly combined with red colour. Blue is a passive colour in contrast to red and it causes introversion as it is a contractive colour. The blue shade is regarded as a symbol of vastness, infinity, and depth. That is why lord Krishna and lord Shiva or the Neelkanth are always depicted in blue colour. Green is the central colour in the chromatic phenomenon and is created by the mingling of yellow and blue. It is the colour of fruitfulness, contentment, tranquillity and hope. White is associated with pure light and mystic illumination, which comes from ecstasy and intuitive knowledge. The intensity of white colour gives vibrant strength to other colours. Black is used as a colour of totemic rites and magical treatments. It is rarely used as a dominating colour in embroidery and is used instead to define other colours.
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STITCHES
Running Stitch: Poke the needle back down through the fabric next to where you just came up, and pull the thread down into your first stitch. Now poke your needle back up through the fabric leaving a space from the previous stitch.
Back stitch: The back stitch belongs to a class of individual stitches that are made backwards to the general direction of sewing. Back stitches are normally worked from right to left. The needle is brought out a short distance from the beginning of the line to be.
Stem Stitch: also know as stalk stitch, is an embroidery technique creating a cabled effect along the line of the embroidery design.
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Whipstitch Stitch: The whipstitch is a simple stitch usually used to sew together two separate pieces of material with flat edges.
Chain stitch: It is just as useful for filing in shapes as it is for outlining, as its chained structure makes it flexible enough for following curves and spirals.
Blanket Stitch: This stitch is used for working the edges of table-covers, mantel valances, blankets, etc. or for edging any other material, including clothing.
Herringbone stitch: Which is sometimes also called mossoul stitch, is worked along parallel lines in hand embroidery, creating a decorative border or edging.
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Embroidery floral design
EMBROIDERIES OF INDIA
Embroidery in India includes dozens of embroidery styles that vary by region and clothing styles. Designs in Indian embroidery are formed on the basis of the texture and the design of the fabric and the stitch. The dot and the alternate dot, the circle, the square, the triangle, and permutations and combinations of these constitute the design. Among the handicrafts of India which have been acclaimed the world over is the embroidery. It has occupied an important place among Indian exports. With Kashmir as an exception, the stitching was done exclusively by the women. Until recent times this was one of the first arts taught to the young girls at home. Among other Indian folklore and songs, the art of embroidery has also lived in the hearts of the people and has been handed down from generation to generation. Like other handicrafts, it is a manifestation of man’s yearnings for beauty, introducing grace and elegance into the monotony and drabness of everyday life. The charm has remained constant and explains the fascination for embroidery through the ages. The Indian embroidery has been considered as richest in design and most varied in stitches, with a striking colour combination and an elaborate range of motifs.
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CHIKANKARI Origin Rumored to having been introduced by Noor Jahan, wife of Jahangir, Chikankari originated from Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh. It began with white embroidery on a white cloth, but today, it is available in all colours imaginable. Chikankari is a very delicate and intricate shadow work type of embroidery. Initially, the embroidery was done using white yarn, on colorless muslins known as tanzeb. However, today, georgette, chiffon, cotton and other fine fabrics are also being used. From being an embellishment used primarily for decorating clothes, Chikankari embroidery work of India has now spread to cushion covers, pillow covers, table linen.
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Motifs: The motif which are used in Chikankari embroidery of Lucknow are based on Natural, Geometrical, Stylized Abstract forms. These are inspired by Persian themes that’s why can witness huge fondness for natural forms. Chikankari Embroidery
Chikankari Motif
Method of Chikankari Embroidery Work The stitches used in Chikan Kari work of Lucknow are basically of three categories, namely (i)Flat Stitches (Subtle stitches that remain close to the fabric) (ii) Embossed Stitches (they give a grainy appearance) (iii) Jali Work (Created by thread tension, it gives a delicate net effect) Indian Chikan work basically consists of a number of processes, namely cutting, stitching, printing, embroidery, washing and finishing. Cutting and stitching are done by the same person. Then, printing is undertaken with wooden blocks dipped in dye. After this, embroidery is done, usually by women. The last step in the Chikankari embroidery work is washing and finishing, which may take from 10 to 12 days and involves bleaching, acid treatment, stiffening and ironing. There are 32 stitches of chikankari, which are broadly classified into Raised stitch, Embossed and Flat stitch and Open Trellis. Requiring patience and skill, this embroidery is done by stitching on patterns traced on a variety of cloth materials like muslin, silk, chiffon, net, cotton, velvet, linen, etc. Style From sarees to suits, lehengas to palazzos, chikan embroidery is chosen by women to showcase elegance which comes guaranteed with the intricacies of the stitches and patterns. Suitable for both daily wear and special occasions, you can make a distinguished style statement whenever you wear chikankari.
Chikankari Anarkali Dress
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ZARDOZI Origin Zardozi is believed to be one of the oldest and most lavish embroidery styles in India. Today it is popular in the Indian cities of Lucknow, Farrukhabad, Chennai and Bhopal. Zardozi (Zari) comes from two Persian words: zar or zarin meaning ‘gold’, and dozi meaning ‘sewing’. Metallic threads were used on silk and velvet. Originally, Zardosi embroidered clothes used gold or silver threads with precious stones and pearls making them luxury items, exclusively worn by the rich. Zardozi work is chiefly used on wedding attire, the colours used are bright red for a marriage ceremony, maroon, turquoise, royal blue, mauve, pink and bottle green for a more regal look. Motifs: When the Persian invaders brought Zardosi to India, the motifs and colours were primarily Persian like Baloch’s Souzan-douzi, Rasht’s Qollab-douzi, and Kerman’s Pate-douzi, even animals and flowers are used motifs in Zardozi. 21
Zardozi Motif
Zardozi Embroidery
Many craftsmen left Delhi and went to the courts of Rajasthan and Punjab in search of work. With the 18th and 19th century bringing industrialization, the craft suffered another setback. It was only after receiving independence in the year 1947 that the Indian government undertook steps to promote Zari embroidery. Method of Zardozi Embroidery Work The process of doing Zardozi embroidery starts with the craftsmen sitting crosslegged around the Addaa, the wooden framework, with their tools. The techniques, tools and raw materials used to create Zardozi are the same across India and adhere very closely to the original and ancient techniques. The basic technique is 4 fold: Designing, tracing, setting the frame, embroidery. The tools include curved hooks, needles, salmaa pieces (gold wires), sitaaras (metal stars), roundsequins, glass & plastic beads, dabkaa and kasab (thread). Next, trace out the design on the cloth, if possible fabrics like silk, satin, velvet, etc. The fabric is then stretched over the wooden frame and the embroidery work begins. Style While previously this embroidery was a mark of the rich, nowadays gold-coloured plastic threads are used, making this form of art more affordable. Available on sarees, suits, blouses, and lehengas, Zardosi gives you the rich look which brings with it confidence and glamourous royal look. Zardozi Dress
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AARI Origin The name of this embroidery comes from the hooked, sharp needle, which is used for this technique. Aari owes its origin to the Mughals and is practised in Rajasthan, Lucknow, and Kashmir. Aari work is a type of embroidery which is done on a stretched fabric and stitching the design with a long needle which has a hook in the end. The needle technique origins from the mocha community who use this type of needle to stitch intricate patterns on leather footwear. A pen like needle which resembles the shape of a crochet needle, gives rise to an intrinsic form of artwork called the ‘Aari work’. In this artwork beads and ‘muthia’, a sharp edged needle is put to work, which creatively gives rise to chain stitch kind of imprints. This work is popular for its delicate and finest threadwork which enhances the essence of hand embroidery. Motifs: The motif which are used in Aari embroidery are flowers and animal based. The most used motif is of our national bird, Peacock. Aari may also include decorating materials like pearls, beads, stones and sequins. 23
Aari Embroidery
Aari work began with a simple procedure of using a lead pencil to sketch the design on the fabric, after which a needle was put to use which pierced holes along the lines of the design. Then the threaded needle was inserted into the fabric, and when it came up, it emerged with a loop. Through this procedure, the fine stitched pattens led to the evolution of Aari work as an individual art form. Method of Aari Embroidery Work The fabric is first stretched over a frame to remove uneven, loose folds in the fabric texture. The frame comprises four wooden spars resting on wooden posts. Next, using thick cotton thread, the fabric is sewn on to the wooden frame. More often than not, Zari, Cotton or Silk threads are used in embroidery.
Aari Motif
One of the main features of Aari work is the fine embroidered patterns on the fabric. At times, artisans embellish the outfit or cloth with sequins, stone etc in between the embroidered patterns. Aari work has always been considered one of the most tedious forms of needle work. Today, with the help of advanced stitching procedures, it takes lesser time to complete the work. Style With highly detailed designs inspired by nature, Aari stands apart in its richness. Oftentimes focussing on the body of the saree, the blouse is left plain, which adds to an unparalleled style statement. Easy to maintain and style, any material with Aari embroidery provides comfort with fashion. Crediting its ‘all seasonal’ convenience, this fabric has increased the demand meter across the globe. Aari is also used on various products like handbags, footwears, curtains, bedsheets, etc. Aari Embroidered Handbag
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BANJARA Origin The nomadic tribes of Banjara (Lambadi) did not limit themselves to a single geographical location which allowed this style of embroidery to disperse across various regions, facilitating variations in the technique and designs. Tribes from Rajasthan migrated long ago to the hilly region in Hyderabad. The local banjaras still make their living by weaving colorful embroidery work by using mirrors and beads embroidered artistically on clothes. The tribal wear dresses of bright color, combinations of red, green, yellow and black with mirrors knitted on cloth in intricate patterns.
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Motifs: The motifs are simple and basic like square, lines, rhombus, circles, trainangle, rectangle, dash, cross. Nowadays even floral motfis are used. Colours like black, red, blue, pink, maroon, yellow, orange are mostly used. Banjara Embroidery
Banjara Motif
Method of Banjara Embroidery Work The garments of women’s are stitched with full colorful geometric patterns. Small, round and square mirrors, beads, coins, cowrie shells and colored cotton tassels hangs from the edges of the embroidered garments. The use of red, green, yellow, black and white colors is prominent among them. The Poplin fabric is cut into required measurement and size with the help of a measuring tape. Lines are drawn on the cloth with the help of a ruler and chalk piece, on which the threads are stitched to form as a pattern or design. The main fabric is placed on sponge and stitched. Sponge is used to maintain the stiffness. These three items are stitched together to acquire the required product. After this, embroidery work is done. The sponge even helps the embroidery work to stitch the design stiffly, which outstand and makes it look attractive. The cloth is embroidered with varieties of beads, glass and shells in beautiful patterns and design. Glass and shell embroidery is very famous. Style Banjara apparel with excessive mirror work and pleasing color combinations in perfectly balanced and blended way is a treat to the eyes. With blend of patchwork and Mirrorwork, the Banjara gives vibrance to the everyday ethnic look. It is included in both modern garments as well as the traditional ones. You can find Banjara embroidery on dresses, suits, lehengas, blouses, jackets and bags. Banjara Embroidery Jacket
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KANTHA Origin From East Indian states like West Bengal, Odisha and Tripura and Bangladesh, comes Kantha embroidery, chiefly practiced by rural women. Kantha is a centuries-old tradition of stitching patchwork cloth from rags, which evolved from the thrift of rural women in the Bengali region of the subcontinent. One of the oldest forms of embroidery originating from India, its origins can be traced back to the pre-Vedic age (prior to 1500 BCE). Types of Kantha - 1) Archilata Kanta- Covers for mirrors or toilet accessories with wide, colorful borders. 2) Lep Kantha- these are wraps which are heavily padded to make warm quilts. 3) Baiton Kantha- Square wraps used for covering books. 4) Durjani/Thalia- are quilted wallets made out of rectangular Kantha pieces. 5) Oaar Kanthaare used pillow covers. 6) Rumal Kantha- are used as plate coverings. 7) Sujani Kantha- are decorative quilted Kantha used as blankets or spreads.
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Kantha Embroidery
Motifs: Motifs used in Kantha embroidery are human and animal figures, floral symbols which cover the surface from the corner. Sometimes mythological stories also depicted using threads.
Method of Kantha Embroidery Work The process of making kantha embroidery is quite simple but it allows for a vast range of expression. Now a day’s people have used Kantha embroidery form in several ways from cutting-edge contemporary to classic traditional. The motif is first drawn on paper by hand. The outline is then hunt down on to a tracing paper. The edges of the pattern are incised with a needle with a distance of 1 mm between each prick. Colored embroidery threads are chosen in accordance with the pattern.
Kantha Motif
All of the threads have code numbers that are eminent for future reference.Cane frames may be used to lengthen the fabric. Larger plastic frames may also be used. Usually a simple outline is first made on the pattern.Sometimes the patterns are more abstract and are finished all over the fabric, usually to hold 3 or more layers of cloth. Artisans are skilled enough to stitch evenly spaced spirals or lines. In kantha embroidery there are numerous patterns for borders as well as ‘butis’ or dots to pervade a fabric. Style With Kantha embroidery now available on kurtas and suits, fashion with comfort has reached new heights. Giving the appeal of leisure, Kantha embroidery can be chosen for its richness that completes any look on its own without much need for accessories. The fabric is easy to maintain and style, adaptable to numerous occasions, trendy. Kantha Coat
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PHULKARI Origin Mentioned in the folklore of Heer Ranjha, Phulkari comes from a rural embroidery tradition in Punjab. Its present form can be traced back to Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s reign in the 15th century. Its first mention is in Punjabi folklore of the romantic protagonists Heer and Ranjha. The main characteristics of Phulkari embroidery are use of darn stitch on the wrong side of coarse cotton cloth with coloured silken thread. Punjabi women create innumerable alluring and interesting designs and patterns by their skilful manipulation of the darn stitch. According to Kehal (2009), a cloth where only a few flowers are embroidered is called a Phulkari. It is a representation of the dear and sundry values of Punjab.
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Phulkari Motif
Motifs: The motifs are a reflection of the life and household of ladies. Everything that they see from the flowers they grow, the vegetables that they eat, to the animals and birds that exist around them.
Phulkari Embroidery
Method of Phulakri Embroidery Work Traditional phulkari embroidery is done on coarse cotton fabric called ‘khaddar’ which is manually spun and naturally dyed. The coarse weave makes it easy to run the thread to it in order to make the intricate designs. The thread that is used for the embroidery is called ‘pat’ in Punjabi. It is untwisted floss silk yarn that is sourced from Afghanistan or China. The thread is glossy and adds a brilliant sheen to the finished work. The base cloth is dull, often handspun khadi, which is then completely covered with bright coloured embroidered design leaving no gaps. Each motif follows a geometric pattern with motifs of nature (chiefly flowers) using darn stitch for easy vertical, horizontal, and diagonal threadwork. Since phulkari work is guided by symmetry of designs, the embroiderer has to count the number of stitches on each side before proceeding with the design, this makes the process tedious. Counting stitches on a light fabric is easier than doing it on a dark one. Khaddar being a tough cloth, thick and coarse, getting the delicate silk floss through and forth is a telling task. Style With a phulkari suit, mixing and matching is a bet you can’t lose. With oxidized silver jewelry, you can easily achieve the right ethnic look. Phulkari Kurtis can be paired with jeans for a contemporary look while lightly embroidered suits can be used for daily wear. Traditionally a bridal outfit, Phulkari can also be chosen for a cheerful festive look in a wide range and shades of colours. Phulkari Cluth
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Embroidery (vibrant colours)
CONCLUSION
A remarkable thing about the art of embroidery is the fastidiousness of the worker to avoid wasteful ornamentation and therefore there is never a single unnecessary stitch. The embroidery never forgets the purpose that the design has to fulfil. The entire composition displays the admirable skill in the arrangement of the form and colour, producing beautiful combinations that are pleasing to the eye. The art of embroidery reflects the personal expression of the artist, whether it is the cultivated art or embroidered out of sheer instinct. In today’s world where the man is distracted from nature, and where the artwork may not give an adequate sense of fulfilment, the decorative designs of handicrafts, traditional customs and embroidery have become an essential medium of expression.
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Embroidery - Mirrorwork
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Research Documents History of Indian Embroideries Embroidery Stich Library by Michelle Galleta The Fading Art of Indian Embroidery and its Impact on Luxury Fashion Reminiscing the Supremacy of the Traditional Embroideries of India Books Traditional Embroideries of India by Shailaja D Naik Indian Embroidery by Rosemary Crill Internet and picture sources www.utsavpedia.com www.britanica.com www.wikipedia.com www.mapsofindia.com www.pinterest.com
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Sanika Yeole