PNW: TWO CITIES, ONE LONG WEEKEND Explore

Autumn Seattle

BY NORA HESTON TARTE / D SELECTED PHOTOS BY TRAVEL PORTLAND ANGELA RUDOLPH & JUSTIN KATIGBAK

Escaping to the northwest for a wintery weekend away sounds like a dream come true. And within the region there are two major destinations for travelers—one quirky and offbeat and another brimming with big city attractions. What if we told you, it’s easy to both enjoy the oddball experiences and fusion cuisine Portland is known for while also indulging in the sleek city streets and high-end nightlife those who frequent Seattle applaud? Call upon Amtrak to be your PNW chariot, and it’s possible to immerse yourself in two destinations at once.

Eccentric Portland

Catch a flight to Portland to start your adventure. While here, you’ll want to embrace the city’s unique flair and killer cuisine. One way to do that is with a donut tour (yes, you heard that right). Underground Donut Tours offers a two-hour, two-mile guided expedition to find the city’s best donuts. Each tour provides a mix-up of four favorites to explore. Highlights include lavender donuts at Coco Donuts and Nola Doughnut’s version of a cronut in various flavors, like s’mores. If you’re lucky, the tour will stop at the infamous Voodoo Doughnuts, known for its quirky lineup of available tastes, including

the voodoo man who bleeds red jelly when you poke him with a pretzel stick. Each location chops their favorites into quarters so you can taste at each without getting full—well, maybe. (844) 366-8848

Most come to Portland for the beer, but if you want to stray from the obvious, trade that afternoon brew for another beverage at Abbey Creek Winery. The epitome of an urban winery, if you’ve ever sipped vino while humming along to Snoop Dogg, this is the place for you. Instead of a menu, you’re handed “a playlist,” with wines all named with hashtags and served by a Carhartt ambassador, who just so happens to own the place. 912 SW Morrison St.

Our last truly off-kilter experience to have in Portland is sure to give you

Portland-Mercado

a fright. Raven’s Manor is a themed bar (with an escape room and mixology experience) that doesn’t cut any corners. Staff is dressed to the nines in gothic costumes (think lace bodices, platform boots, and lots of leather) and they seat you at tables with blood splatter facing Haunted Mansion-style photos that play tricks on your eyes. Visit the bathroom—if you dare—and spend time walking around enjoying the details. The cocktail list is decidedly sweet, but you won’t want to miss the glowing green drinks served in frosty beakers. 235 SW 1st Ave.

Shop the Weird

Every neighborhood of Portland boasts quaint shops between restaurants and high-rise apartments. The oversized Powell’s Books is a must, and lesser-known Paxton Gate (specializing in fossils, taxidermy, and framed insects) is a cool place to get an appropriate souvenir. Other suggestions: Downtown’s West End features fun home décor shops and clothing stores and My People’s Window Shop (near Abbey Creek Winery) boasts BIPOC-owned stores.

Where to Eat

Looking to grub? We’ve got you covered for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Gracie’s steps outside of the abnormal, instead embracing a more opulent experience. Inside of Hotel deLuxe—an art centric hotel is the heart of Portland—the menu is overflowing with decadent cuisine perfected by Chef Benjamin Waterman. The avocado toast is everything you could ask for but it’s the dish of grilled peaches and cornbread that does it for us—a combo that makes us want to sing songs by 112 as we dine. Expert Tip: Come back for cocktails at the recently reopened

Hotel DeLux

Driftwood, a romantic half-heart shaped bar, home to high-end cocktails and infamous for first date stories. 729 SW 15th Ave.

For lunch, Lardo is in the thick of the action, a common spot for nearby workers to grab a hearty sandwich midday or a beer for happy hour. Fries are a must when dining in, especially if you order them dirty (pork scraps, marinated peppers, fired herbs, and Parmesan) and the chef’s Nashville hot chicken is spicy and filling. After you eat, sit outside and sip a beer on the picnic style tables—it’s a good locale for people watching. 1212 SE Hawthorne Blvd.

Decidedly Portland, dinner is served at Oma’s Hideaway. If the weather is nice, a seat on the patio is ideal. If you want to sit inside however, proof of vaccination is a must. Ultra-hip and trendy, the best way to enjoy the fare here is family style. Oma’s Corn Fritters (served with sweet chili peanut sauce) are crispy and delicious with a sweet, warm center. The Coconut Rice is fragrant with lemongrass and lime leaf. Another fried side worth the calories are the Sweet Potato Dumplings with green curry, cilantro oil, and shallots. To drink, the menu has a few fun-to-say signatures, such as the Singapore Sing (a cultural favorite from Singapore) and the One Thing Led to Another, a refreshing blend of tequila, lime, pickle brine, and cucumber. Expert Tip: this is one of Portland’s best neighborhoods for exploring. 3131 SE Division St.

If you’re looking for cocktails only, there’s no better place to catch a cool vibe than Abigail Hall. The bar resembles more of an oversized living room at your richest, coolest friend’s house. Almost speakeasy style, it’s tucked around the corner of the Woodlark Hotel and each table feels like its own corner of the room. The space was once the library of the Ladies Reception Hall in the Cornelius Hotel and it cleverly nods to its history as the meeting place of suffragettes of Abigail Scott Duniway’s time, known as Oregon's "Mother of Equal Suffrage." The cocktail names all nod to musical influences, so order a Good as Hell (cognac, Averna, pineapple, honey syrup, lemon, cava, and a Saffron sugar rim inspired by Lizzo)

Donut Tour Hotel DeLux

Seattle Chocolate Tour

On the outskirts of town, the Seattle Chocolate tour is one of the city’s most delicious experiences—and one of my personal favorites by far. Every tour starts with a little history and chocolate tasting before donning hairnets to venture onto the floor and eat through samples as you learn how Seattle Chocolate Company treats are made. Before you leave, snap photos in front of the insta-worthy wall and load up on truffles and chocolate bars to take home. 1180 Andover Park W. Location is everything when sleeping in Seattle. Hotel Theodore is the apex of boutique hotels. Inside, the navy walls and modern touches offer an air of modern luxury that will have you feeling as swanky as the free drinks served at cocktail hour. Inside, MADE provides coffee and to-go pastries to fuel you for a day in the city, and once you step outside, you’ll be in the thick of it all. Across the street is a Starbucks, next door is a bar/ arcade, and just blocks away you’ll find yourself at the wharf, ready to take a tour around the Puget Sound, peruse the infamous Pike Place Market, or slip onto the Seattle Great Wheel where you can get a stellar view of surrounding Seattle in an enclosed vessel before perusing local shops, finding your inner child at the arcade and carousel, or diving into a creamy bowl of clam chowder at Pike Place Chowder. 1531 7th Ave.

Woodark

or let a colorful (and decidedly nottoo-sweet) concoction of vodka, apple pucker, green chartreuse, cucumber syrup, lemon, and sparkles known as the Party Favor (Billie Eilish) bewitch you. 813 SW Alder St.

Transit

Amtrak takes you from Portland to Seattle with ease. Just shy of 3.5 hours onboard and your settings will do a complete 180. Snacks and beers help pass the time, while (sometimes spotty) Wi-Fi is available, but your surroundings are clean—no city bus feel here. All in all, it’s more cost effective than booking a flight and, for some, more leisurely.

Where to Sleep

Woodlark is a renovated dream come true. This modern space boasts Abigail Hall, Bullard (the first restaurant from Top Chef alum Doug Adams), and a sleek and spacious coffee bar. The rooms are small but well-appointed with whimsical décor (think leafy green tropical touches and big windows boasting city views). With 151 rooms, it gives all the feels of a boutique hotel without sacrificing amenities. 813 SW Alder St.

Scenic Seattle

The sights of Seattle are easiest to view with a CityPASS, a common offering in many places but only worth their weight in some. All in, the pass grants guests access to five attractions—the Space Needle and Seattle Aquarium plus three of four others: Argosy

Cruises Harbor Tour, Woodland Park

Zoo, Museum of Pop Culture (MoPOP), and Chihuly Garden and Glass. Not on the pass is the Museum of History & Industry; and if you ever wanted to feel old, the dated technology displays should do the trick.

MoPOP is a colorful building impossible to miss just near the Space Needle. The nonprofit museum explores music and movies with exhibits dedicated to Pearl Jam, Nirvana, and Jimmie Hendrix, including a collection of funky guitars played by some of the greatest names in music. For movies, rooms separated by genre provide interactive spectacles that walk guests through horror film’s most treacherous villains, transformative fantasy based in faraway lands, and the stuff sci-fi dreams are made of. Upstairs, a temporary exhibition titled Heroes & Villians: the Art of the Disney Costume includes a lineup of Cinderella dresses worn through the decades as well as many of Cruella De Vil’s best coats. 325 5th Ave. N, Seattle

Once you’ve finished admiring what’s inside, choose between a jaunt through Chihuly Garden & Glass, a collection of glass-blown pieces created by Dale Chihuly, or the Space Needle—once the tallest building in the world, created for the World Fair. Expert Tip: If you’re venturing to the top, book a table in advance where you can clink glasses of champagne as you rotate slowly above the city perched 605-feet in the air.

Washington Wine

For a midday pick-me-up, a visit to the Browne Family Vineyards Tasting Room provides truly delicious vinos made from Browne Family vines. One of three tasting rooms in Washington, this one plays to the characteristics of the city where you can watch the rain pour down large glass windows while tucked inside the cozy yet airy space. 413 First Ave. S Downtown Seattle is bursting with places to chow, but the neighborhoods across the city are perhaps the best places to sit for a meal. Away from the touristy hustle and bustle, Chef Brian Clevenger’s Autumn provides upscale meals with a casual air. Dine on house made farfalle pasta finished with squash, corn, and summer beans or slice into a tender, juicy breast of duck complimented by potatoes and swiss chard. The cocktails here allow it to serve as both your special occasion dinner reservation and a late-night drinks spot. 6726 Greenwood Ave. N

Near Chef Mitch Mayer’s Sawyer, you’ll discover a new part of the city. A little more residential, it doesn’t lack charm or nightlife. Start with a dinner of shareable plates in an airy eatery on the water. Dim lighting highlights the romance of the venue as you make your way through large Duck Fat Tater Tots served with dipping sauces; Potato Gnocchi amplified by sweet corn brodo, poblano, pecorino, and chives; Lamb Meatballs boasting a house ricotta, grilled stone fruit, cherries, and chorizo chimichurri; and Potato Piroshky, a pull-apart bread dipped in mustard cream cheese (and perhaps the best part of the entire meal). The cocktails here are worthy of fine dining. My personal recommendation? The Passarelle de la Peach—a cognac-based drink finished with calvados, Benedictine, and peach syrup. For something more delicate, the Traveling Magician is made with butterfly pea blossom gin and perfected with chareau aloe liqueur, citric acid, and prosecco. 5309 22nd Ave. NW, Ste. A.

Gracies

RESTAURANTS | WINE | DRINKS | SWEETS wine dine 209

Papapavlo’s Lands in Lodi

THE MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT IS EXPANDING WITHIN SJC

BY NORA HESTON TARTE / D DAN HOOD

The Mediterranean bistro that has long served Lincoln Center residents opened a second location this year for many reasons, amongst those to cater to a new clientele with the same proven menu of high-end yet casual cuisine. The differences between the two spaces— the Lodi location built at the corner of Lockeford and School streets—is in style and design. The Lodi restaurant is small but mighty—not the grandiose building with multiple meeting spaces you may be accustomed to. Instead, the vibe is more intimate, focused on family dining, without skimping on experience. An outdoor patio, cozy tables, and bar stools allow for multiple dining options and spaces much like the Stockton restaurant.

Ultimately, if you’re coming in to dine at Papapavlo’s in Lodi, expect the same cuisine as the flagship location in Stockton; the menu is identical for dinein service, where the focus is on hearty steaks, fresh seafood, and lighter soups and salads. Owners (and husband-wife team) Andy and Jennifer Papas make it possible by splitting time managing each business. The goal, eventually, is to expand the Lodi building into a larger restaurant, but currently two other shops rent out space in the building—Trail Coffee Roasters and a mortgage company.

We have long loved coming to Papapavlo’s to catch up with friends over shareable plates. The truth is the menu here is gargantuan—a long list of mouthwatering dishes sure to send you over-ordering. “We have a lot of diversity with our menu,” Andy says. The Apple & Brie Triangles are buttery and flaky all at once, made with filo dough and stuffed with sauteed apples and triple cream brie, good enough to eat as dessert. The Grilled Artichoke is also done well, all crispy edges and soft insides made for dipping in the provided remoulade. Traditional Mediterranean appetizers include Mushroom Triangles (mushroom pitas), Stuffed Grape Leaves (dolmathes), and Flaming Cheese (saganaki) served tableside and on fire. For dinner, Andy is a fan of the stellar steak selection. The menu features ribeyes, porterhouses, filet mignons, and more, topped with melted bleu cheese butter, portobello mushroom merlot demi glaze, or Cold Water Maine lobster tail. A full rack of lamb is decadence on a plate, while Calamari Steak and Pistachio Crusted Salmon play to the chefs’ strengths.

If you want to truly indulge in the culture, order a brochette—a skewer typically donning chunks of grilled meat. Served with rice pilaf, vegetables, pita bread, and soup or salad, the centerpiece is skewered zucchini with red and green bell peppers, mushrooms, and charbroiled onions; marinated angus sirloin with onion and bell peppers; a lean leg of lamb accompanied by onion and mushroom; mahi mahi rich in flavors of lemon, olive oil, and oregano; or five marinated prawns skewered with onion and red bell pepper. HOLIDAY CATERING

While dining in for a casual meal is the easiest way to enjoy Andy and Jennifer’s fare, it’s not the only way. A secret menu is unlocked when you choose to cater an event—large or small—perfect for the holiday season. “We cater everything on the menu,” Andy says. However, he mentions some appetizers that aren’t available for dine in to compliment events well, such as antipasta platters, fresh veggies, and fruit and cheese plates. “We have numerous menus online.”

The best part is if you have a favorite dish from the Papapavlo’s menu, it’s available for catering; there’s nothing on the menu you can’t get for a party, even the large steaks Andy says are a must.

PAPAPAVLO’S (LODI)

217 N. School St., Lodi (209) 625-8677 Papapavlos.com