The Land of Mañana

There is this inexplicable feeling, a pit at the bottom of your stomach, some call it butterflies, when your plane departs the ground. Energy and potential are all present, you’re excited. It’s the limitless opportunity that exists at the beginning of every trip that elevates the flying experience. The opportunities are endless, the possibilities only restricted by our imaginations. A sea of travelers all bound for unique experiences yet sharing this immense feeling. We all have travel companions, but once this year, leave the buddy pass at home. Find your own destination and see what the wide world holds for you and your predilections. I’ve chosen to rest my toes on Medano Beach at the Hacienda Beach Club and Residences, for three rounds I’ve been teeter tottering with myself over frozen or on the rocks, which is the better margarita? This philosophical inquest only hampered by my waning sobriety, the glowing sunset behind Land’s End and the Cabo San Lucas Marina, and of course last call at the beach bar.

Photographed & Written by Silas Fallstich

My rumination has been replaced by an appetite and before long I’m tucked into a corner booth at Hacienda Cocina y Cantina. The cast of evening light leaves the sky, replaced by a midnight blue in the low-lit dining room. I order a Tamarindo Margarita, in the blink of an eye the bar man’s lighting hands have my drink table side. In one sip my debate is answered—on the rocks or frozen isn’t of importance, what matters is the flavors, and this margarita owns flavor. Tamarind puree, fresh squeezed lime, sugar cane syrup, and a chile dust rim all molded together in a perfect balance of fresh, full flavors.

I order the Hacienda Salad, with tamarind dressing. Like the margarita, I’m wowed. Crisp and fresh ingredients accented by the sharp sweet and sour tamarind dressing. The spiced pecans elevate it from lukewarm to Mexican picante. For my main course I have the Tinga de Pollo (chicken gorditas) and a final margarita. The last taste of the evening is much like the first, I’m contented on Mexican fare and regional specialty margaritas. My eyes are bigger than my appetite and as I’m leaving I remind myself to return for the chocolate churros.

In the morning I’m up early, having coffee poolside, the cast of light a sun salutation offering before a day exploring the town. I have a soft goal of movement, other than that I want nothing more than a spontaneous day. After a quick swim in the pool and an egg white omelet at the Cantina I’m exiting the Beach Club into downtown— you can’t beat this location. My destination: the marina and anywhere else my feet can carry me.

The marina is for anyone who appreciates yachts and the people watching is top notch. I wander aimlessly in awe, not only with the yachts but the endless line of luxury shopping, dining and tour offerings. The marina is unlike any other I’ve set foot on. There are street vendors and storefronts every other step. If you have a buoyant imagination you could find any experience needed just a few steps away from the Beach Club entrance.

I tend to hide behind my camera when I travel, I’m not sure if it’s the margaritas coursing through my veins from last night’s debate or the general comfort and ease of Cabo, but I feel social. I interact with almost every vendor, buckets of beer offered one step and full-day fish tours the next. The day can go in any direction. I end up wading through booths full of handmade trinkets, landing on colorful skull salt and pepper shakers for a SB collector and cactus shot glasses for my mom’s growing collection. The vendor adds gifts to my basket when I’m not looking, I’m her only patron at the moment and she’s all in for a big sale.

I wander down side streets marveling at the developments and the overall cleanliness of every square inch. I’ve never set foot in a cleaner part of Mexico. I meet an American transplant who has been vacationing in Cabo for over 30 years. He walks me up and down a few of the local avenues and tells me about his personal Cabo timeline. Many of his details are lost on me as we meander through shops with authentic wooden masks, everyday bobble-heads and an endless assortment of Cabo Ts. He’s friendly beyond belief and when we part ways I feel inspired to begin my own Cabo history book.

I stop at Giggling Bean Coffee and supplement my caffeine needs with a tall iced coffee. I’m on a tourist buzz and find a street side taco and beer special. I venture further than intended down side avenues and end up marveling at the architecture, an inactive amphitheater and murals by local artists. I wind up near the Marina Mercado, a labyrinth of overstocked vendors with anything and everything you could imagine. After this I realize I’ve shopped too much and beeline for the coast.

I wander past fishermen filleting their catch, a window taco shop that only accepts pesos, and eventually reach the Mt. Solmar hike trail head. I’m full of energy and hit the trail running. Upon cresting the first hill I’m rewarded with a Land’s End view worth its weight in margaritas. The trail starts as an unused road and tapers into a rustic single track. The final accent is steep and requires a bit of scrambling but with the summit, adorned with a white cross, in sight I quicken my pace, out of breath I crest the rise. The ocean breeze cools my face, a few sips of water and I’m perched on a rock slab looking across the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula. I can make out ant sized people meandering across the vast beach that stretches before me.

I befriend a few fellow hikers. We take turns pointing out our hotels and favorite dining locations, Hacienda Beach Club and Residence is easy to spot with its yellow stucco walls, tiered pools and beach front position. There are only three groups at the summit, we share an uninterrupted panoramic view that goes on forever.

It takes me no time at all to venture back to Hacienda Beach Club. I’m tempted to hail a water taxi but instead retrace my steps from earlier in the day. The leisurely happiness of the other tourists is contagious and by the time I’m back in my room I feel refreshed. I spend the late afternoon reading on the beach and swimming in the ocean. The water is a crushing color of blue I’ve never experienced before, the intensity of the color only matched by the refreshing feel of crisp water.

Seeking out a unique dinner experience, the concierge recommends a private in-room dining. A few hours later, with a knock at my door I’m in my residence being treated to a yellow fin tuna dinner by Chef Raul. Every ingredient spread across my kitchen counter is from local farms and the fish is fresh caught. He begins with an heirloom tomato salad with tuna sashimi. Every dish is hand prepared while Chef Raul and I discuss the hotel and other hobbies. Following the salad is tuna tartare with mashed avocado, coriander, lemon zest, and lemon juice mixed with salt and olive oil. He uses many of the same ingredients in each dish and I marvel at his ingenuity and the wide array of flavors. The final course is a seared tuna steak with a sesame crust. This is the meal I’ve been imagining since landing in Mexico.

For dessert Chef Raul treats me to an in-residence mezcal tasting. In a short yet informative hour I learn more than can be recorded about mezcal and taste six variations. The first lesson I learn is that if you treat mezcal right, mezcal will treat you right. Every plant produces a different flavor. We try “Amores” with a mild yet full flavor and a subtle sweetness, next “Wahaka”—very smooth with a lingering bitterness, followed by “Amaras” which is green and crispy with an intense body and spice forward nose. I’m quickly getting lost in the flavors as Chef Raul interjects with interesting knowledge about each label. By the completion of the tasting my palate has done somersaults and is appeased to no end.

In the morning I fully enjoy my residence. Taking the time to read and have leisure time on my personal veranda with one eye constantly on the incredible view. The residence offers a never ending sliding glass door that tucks into the wall, once it’s out of sight you have an unblemished panorama before you. Until now I haven’t fully appreciated the master suite’s handcrafted furnishings and natural finishes. I could stay here all day but the margarita mixer is calling.

I have a longer than usual breakfast at the Cantina, I make the mistake of requesting a “picante” sauce, which is like fire. Tread lightly on the hot sauce, I promise you will be impressed more with the flavor of the mild. My morning is spent in a leisurely capacity. I shake hands with some of the beachside vendors, looking over their wares half heartedly (my suitcase is already brimming) and before long half the day has been offered to the sun.

My afternoon appointment is at the on-property spa for a stone massage treatment. I’ve received quite a few massages in my lifetime but nothing like this. She immediately expands the range of motion of my shoulders with waves of stone and hand pressure. The timing and intricate balance of palm and stone is perfect. I’m in a trance, captivated by the soothing presence of hot stones, falling water and exotic aromas. I exit the massage feeling rejuvenated and full of life.

I’m back in residence, torn between ventures on the town and the sanctuary of relaxing in my room. I dine a la carte from the room service menu. Calamari and ice cold Tecates are all I need. The evening is spent watching party goers come and go on a florescent sail boat. I haven’t been this content in a long time and that’s the exact feeling I needed from this southern excursion.

I’m not one for lounging on the beach for endless hours. I get restless. I want to hike to the summit of the nearest peak, or search out some hidden taco bar. However at Hacienda Beach Club and Residences an immense feeling of mañana sets in. A land of tomorrow feeling, where nothing is better than lounging on the beach, debating the questions of life, margarita in hand of course, and an explicit sunset cast across the sky.

haciendacaboresort.com

Photographed & Written by Silas Fallstich