In the Neighborhood

Mouthwatering melts, craft coffee and more at Cafe Ana

There’s just something about stepping into Cafe Ana’s bright, airy space on a rainy day that instantly lifts my mood. I’ve visited this “all day cafe” before, both for coffee and for weekend brunch (can’t get enough of that breakfast platter), but it’s my first time in for lunch. As I take off my coat, I see my lunch date hustle in from the rain behind me.

We’re greeted by Katherine, who coowns Cafe Ana with her husband, Julian. Katherine happily helps us narrow down our long list of potential choices, directing us to some of her favorites at the moment since the menu changes regularly. Avocado toast or eggplant toast? Radicchio Caesar or warm Brussels sprouts salad? It all looks so good. Settling on what will no doubt be too much food, we place our order then head to a corner table by the window.

We bask in the cafe’s inviting glow—a result of the natural light pouring in through the windows. It feels so cozy in here. My friend says that we should have brought our laptops so we could stay here all day and work. Indeed, the place has a neighborhood hangout type feel, with a chic yet warm atmosphere that would make it easy to post up from breakfast all the way through happy hour.

As we nosh on a buttery chive biscuit while we wait, I ask my friend if she ever came here when it was occupied by Coffee Cat, which you’d never recognize to be in the same location thanks to a complete renovation by the Cafe Ana team—one that Katherine mentions was a two-year process. Before my friend can answer, I see her eyes light up as our eggplant toast is delivered to the table.

Topped with hummus, onion, pickled turnips and eggs, plus a thick layer of roasted eggplant, the toast is almost too pretty to eat. Looks aside, we immediately dig in, enjoying each bite of thick, lightly toasted bread, the char of the eggplant, and a nice contrast of flavors from the pickled egg and subtle smear of hummus. Before polishing it off, cups of spring green soup arrive, followed closely by our chicken salad sandwich.

Showcasing a vibrant green color—a puree of English peas and broccoli—this soup commands that spring is here.

I dip my spoon in, making sure to get a fried olive and a drizzle of yogurt with my bite. It’s light and refreshing, like spring in a cup. With each spoonful, I like it more and more, appreciating the texture and that welcome hit of salt from the olives—a nice counterbalance to the brightness of the greens.

Although I’m not quite finished with the soup, I bite into my half of the sandwich, savoring the creamy avocado and tender roasted chicken that’s encircled by a thin layer of herbed mayo. I’m happy to see this is not a mayo-laden chicken salad you’d find at a potluck; rather, this is an elevated, sophisticated version that has just the right proportion of chicken to mayo. But that’s not surprising. Chef Ryan Whyte-Buck seems to have mastered the art of restraint in his food, so nothing ever seems out of place or overwhelming.

Too full to finish the last few bites, we order coffees to go, as we’re both in need of a jolt of energy before getting back to our days.

Heading toward the door, we notice several people sitting with their laptops at the communal table, and we make a pact to meet up here to work one day soon. Scratch that, let’s just meet for snacks and wine.

From modern takes on classics (like tomato soup served with a scoop of burrata in the middle) and unexpected combinations (such as the mezze breakfast platter with soft egg and baba ganoush), Cafe Ana serves up a welcome dose of deliciousness in the neighborhood. *

cafeanasb.com

Photographed by Silas Fallstich

Written by Hana-Lee Sedgwick