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TELLURIDE IS CALLING
telluride is Step out of the ordinary and into the most authentic mountain community calling
“F or some Telluride is a hideout, for some it’s absolute freedom. For me it’s both,” states Chef Patrick Laguens of Sidework restaurant. I graze on what’s left on the table—a charcuterie board of houseWritten by Ottocina Ryan made bread, meats and quince paste, a whole branzino, and the remnants of eight different cocktails. It’s towards the end of a meal that was equal parts delicious food, classic cocktails…and poetry recital. Over the course of dinner the chef with a master’s in philosophy slid into our booth twice to dramatically recite poems he wrote. To say Telluride gives him the freedom to create an unconventionally amazing dining experience would be an understatement. Patrick is just one of the many characters I meet over this crisp fall weekend in Telluride. The first was Tom Watkinson, my tour guide.
Earlier that day, Tom picked me up from Telluride Airport. At 9,070 feet it’s the highest commercial airport in the US, and now easier than ever to visit with new Denver Air Connection flights from Denver. Tom was raised in Telluride and has lived there ever since. He is on town council, knows everyone, and wears a ring engraved fuck yeah Telluride on his middle finger. How many people do you know with that level of hometown pride? Thought so.
The short drive to the Mountain Village area of Telluride is lined by fiery yellow and orange aspen trees. I check into Madeline Hotel and Residences, An Auberge Resort. The vibrant view of the pool and valley contrasts my earth-toned residence. Modern chalet decor is enhanced by faux fur pillows and large horse portraits hanging on the walls. The state-ofthe-art kitchen and dining room table for six make me feel right at home, except better. I cozy up on the couch by the fireplace and watch the sunset until it’s time to take the scenic 15 minute gondola ride over the mountain to meet my tour guide for drinks and dinner in town.
Fancy cars are lined up on Main Street, in celebration of this weekend’s Cars & Colors Festival (one of Telluride’s weekly summer/ fall festivals, most notable is the Telluride Film Festival). Tom and I walk past shiny Maseratis, classic Cadillac convertibles, and a Ghostbusters vehicle. We climb the stairs to New Sheridan Hotel’s rooftop bar for a better view. Everyone seems to know each other and the abundance of beautiful, well-dressed people rivals Southern California. Sipping on a New Sheridan Flatliner Martini—a perfected espresso martini, Telluride’s signature drink—I chat with a woman named Sandy who moved to Telluride from Montecito.
She never thought she’d live in a small town again, but Telluride is special. It reminds her of better days. “People actually want to make each other’s lives better,” she explains. “Everyone is looking out for each other.” She shares that the sheriff called her earlier to alert her that her car was about to get towed so she could get it.
Despite the small mountain town geography, Telluride residents are much more driven than your average ski bum. Sandy goes on, “There are people from all over the world and everyone has interesting stories. People move here and start businesses and foundations. We’re strong people.” Walking downstairs through the hotel, she points out the old photographs of Telluride on the walls. The town is still recognizable. “Telluride has managed to not change that much, but thrive,” she says.
For a change of pace, the next morning I find myself clinging to metal rungs on the face of a cliff. Nothing but a 500 foot drop below me. I’m clipped in to Telluride’s via ferrata climbing route with an unparalleled view of the box canyon and Bridal Veil Falls. To take my mind off of the fact that there’s air beneath my feet where the trail was a minute ago, I focus on conversation with the Mountain Trip guide. The climb is exhilarating, but after a certain point my fear of heights is completely dissolved by the beauty of the view.
For activities that offer equal immersion in the fall scenery and no sweaty palms, may I suggest a Jeep tour up the mountain with Telluride Outside. Early one morning a few other visitors, a couple locals, and I pile into the back of a Jeep, wrapped in blankets. Our guide Matthew explains the town’s mining history as we drive by run-down structures that once housed hundreds of workers. He points out abandoned mines, fuzzy marmots, and
wild raspberries on our way up the mountain. Another option: go for a hike. The golden aspen trees are mesmerizing in the fall. A light breeze makes yellow leaves flutter down and land on pine trees like ornaments. Or rent mountain bikes at Box Canyon Cycles and bike to Telluride Brewing Co. No matter how you explore, there is no wrong way to enjoy the vibrant fall foliage.
Madeline Hotel & Residences, An Auberge Resort
After working up an appetite, I head to dinner at 221 South Oak, owned by Top Chef contestant turned cookbook author Eliza Gavin. The culinary talent in Telluride is surprisingly exceptional for a small town. The meal is a reminder of what food is supposed to taste like. The house made sausage appetizer is notably flavorful. Soups of the day are swirled in a bowl like yin and yang. Then there’s the only dish Tom craved that one time he did a detox: 221’s Rocky Mountain Trout with Duo of Ravioli. I was skeptical but one bite and I understood why.
We end the night, like every other night of the trip, at New Sheridan Historic Bar. Tom knows what seems like every single person, as usual. And tonight I see familiar faces too, after chatting with them a couple times throughout my stay. Even visiting for a few days you feel like a part of the community. Tom explained early on in the trip, you’ll run into people more often in Telluride than you see in your neighbor at home. It proved to be true. * visittelluride.com
