ISLAND DREAM

THE MALDIVES, WHERE OPULENCE AND MARINE WONDERS CONVERGE

BY Ottocina Ryan

The moment I wake up, I slip on a bikini and jump into the private plunge pool on our deck. I gingerly fold my arms on the ledge and gaze out at the Indian Ocean, where the water gains vibrance the further you look, transforming from clear tap to Gatorade blue. A bright green parrotfish darts beneath the overwater bungalow, luring me in for a snorkel. I descend the ladder beside the pool and dive into an ecosystem that surpasses an aquarium. Neon clamshells illuminate the reef as triggerfish, angelfish, and reef sharks swim around me. A docile turtle floats by, as curious about me as I am about it.

After working up an appetite exploring Kagi Island’s house reef, my boyfriend and I head to a breakfast as world-class as the snorkeling. I expected the spectacular marine life from the Maldives, yet the impressive culinary offerings are a welcome surprise. My high expectations of the island nation have already been surpassed, and it’s only day two of a weeklong vacation to three islands—Kagi, Hurawalhi, and Kudadoo. The one-resort islands pair the best of both worlds: the pristine beaches and reefs flourishing with life only available in remote places and a major city’s culinary diversity, theatre, and masterpieces.

Our first stop, Kagi Maldives Spa Island, is a wellness-focused resort in the Malé Atoll that’s a twenty-minute seaplane flight from Malé

(the capital city housing the international airport). The property has fifty rooms, yet walking along the powdered sugar beaches and dining at the four restaurants, we rarely see other guests and feel like we have the island to ourselves. Even the staff is hands off, yet always a WhatsApp message away.

The epicenter of the island is the Spa Circle. Each door of the circular overwater building reveals a health-oriented haven. A gym looking out to the crystal waters, a healthy lunch spot, a sound healing room, sauna, nail salon—there’s no shortage of ways to relax here. We waste no time, starting with massages followed by one of the daily meditation and yoga classes.

Blissed out from the day, we walk to dinner; a train of bungalows silhouetted against pastel skies acts as our backdrop. One night we dine at Nonna, where classic Italian dishes reign supreme, and the next at Ke-Un, which expertly mingles Asian flavors with international fair. On our last morning, we forgo the decadent buffet and opt for a floating breakfast in our pool. Thanks to the photogenic presentation, it’s nearly cold by the time we put away our phones and eat. Practical? Not quite. But beautiful? Absolutely.

After a few days of wellness and indulgence at Kagi, we take a two-hour boat to Lhaviyani Atoll and check into Hurawalhi Island Resort, an

“The one-resort islands pair the best of both worlds: the pristine beaches and reefs flourishing with life only available in remote places and a major city’s culinary diversity, theatre, and masterpieces.” all-inclusive adults-only property known for its underwater restaurant 5.8. We opt for a beach villa with its own pool and more privacy than the iconic bungalows.

We kick off our first night at Champagne Pavilion, scenically located at the end of the overwater bungalow line. The sun sets behind bubbling flutes and canapés, painting the sky and sea with strokes of saturated orange, purple, and pink. Next, we stroll along the beach to Kashibo for a teppanyaki dinner. I question if Chef Su Jan went to comedy school after his culinary training because our meal is exceptionally entertaining—he jokingly narrates the preparation of each dish as he plates it. On our way back to the room, we wander through the main restaurant, Canneli, where the buffet attendants, always eager to please, offer us ice cream. Never ones to turn down dessert, even after a seven-course meal, we sit beneath the stars spooning ice cream before it melts in the warm evening air.

As I did every day, I awake in awe of the serenity and natural beauty of the Maldives. I take an early swim in the pool, as one does here. We walk the lush winding pathways back to Canneli for breakfast, passing guests playing tennis on bougainvillea-lined courts. Along the way, I spot a couple of bats dangling from palm trees—a novelty, to say the least. The buffet has at least 20 sections, including stations for fresh sugarcane water with added superfoods, eggs Benedict, tropical fruits I’ve never seen before, and pastries that taste like they’re from a patisserie—my hands magnetize to the caramel cruffins. It’s impressive by any standards.

The rising heat calls for a languid morning on the beach. The combination of relaxation and blinding white sand makes me want to close my eyes, yet I don’t want to miss a second of the delectable view. The flat, clear water lapping at the powdery sand looks like a dream…the pinnacle of which is Dream Island—the most pristine sandbank you can imagine, just offshore. The friendly staff takes us there with a picnic in tow, and we spend a few hours with the sandbank all to ourselves. It’s like we’re on a remote private island—romantic doesn’t begin to cover it. The experience replays in my mind as a beautiful daydream to this day.

Our boat docks back on Hurawalhi just in time to dress up for lunch and descend to 5.8—the resort’s famed underwater restaurant. It’s one of the coolest experiences (dining or otherwise) I’ve ever had. And it’s not one bit kitschy. The service and tasting menu are flawless, while gazing at fish through the glass dome provides constant entertainment. We watch clown fish hide in dancing anemones, and cleaner wrasses enter the gills of larger fish, all while savoring a menu of delicacies like Patagonian toothfish and Beluga caviar. At one point, another guest and I are crouched on the floor, mesmerized by fish territorially chasing one another—memorable, to say the least.

Saving the best island for last (if you can imagine), we transfer to Kudadoo, a few minutes away by speedboat. The private island houses just 15 residences—the change in the air from 90-room Hurawalhi is palpable; it’s even more intimate and thoughtful. Our butler (yes, butler!) shows us the lay of the land. As I’ve gathered, sustainability is innate when you’re a speck in the middle of the ocean. Kudadoo, however, takes it a step further—984 solar panels that power the entire resort cover the roof of The Retreat, which houses the restaurant, spa, and main pool.

Our residence is jaw-dropping. The clean Japanese architecture allows the surroundings to speak for themselves. The lofty interior opens to a deck with a 475-square-foot pool, swinging daybed,

“A gym looking out to the crystal waters, a healthy lunch spot, a sound healing room, sauna, nail salon—there’s no shortage of ways to relax here.” and lounge chairs. I launch myself onto the floating pillow in the pool. With amenities like sunscreen, sleeping masks, and gourmet snacks beneath glass domes, they’ve thought of everything—and anything you can think of is available…anytime. From jet skiing to parasailing to diving—it’s a playground. What’s not included is a shorter list than what is.

The extensive menu alone makes us want to extend our stay to a month to try everything: pizzas, sushi, seafood, Buddha bowls, lobster… There’s even a cheese cellar, which is adjacent the wine cellar and equal in size, as it should be. We order a buildyour-own salad (welcome at this stage of the trip), sashimi, truffle pizza, and beef tartare. Of course, saving room for dessert. I settle on earl grey tea, pink dragon fruit, and honeycomb from the twenty ice cream options.

To occupy ourselves between meals, we detox in the Lonu Cave (a Himalayan salt room) and snorkel off our residence. Sea urchins the size of basketballs punctuate the coral reef. We spot a mesmerizing array of reef sharks, bannerfish, rays, and clams that look like they could glow in the dark.

Night two’s dinner melts in my mouth like cotton candy; wagyu truffle cream tortellini and Atlantic black cod entertain my tastebuds, as sleeping nurse sharks just beyond the deck offer an unforgettable scene. Speaking of, sleep is not an afterthought at Kudadoo. I quite literally sink into the most cloudlike bed I’ve ever experienced. Though I initially raised my eyebrows at the pre-arrival bedding menus, they could not make more sense as I drift off atop a lavender-infused pillow to the sound of waves lapping at pillars.

Breakfast brings smoothie bowls, lime mascarpone french toast, and a honey menu listing a dozen options. We savor our meal and the last of the view while our butler fills out our immigration forms for the journey home.

From culinary experiences to marine activities, the entirety of our Maldives trip was a highlight reel. Of course, the sea life alone is enough to make the vacation. Yet, the menus—reading as if there’s a prize for the resort with the most Beluga caviar and truffle shavings—created an unparalleled mix of natural wonder meets opulence. After a week immersed in the best of the best of island life, I leave realizing that no matter what you desire— rest, romance, or riveting adventure—this paradise delivers just that, and more.*