welcome home

BY Laura Hupp | PHOTOGRAPHY Silas Fallstich

Iam not sure if it’s the company, the flickering candle light, the black and white photographs captured by owner Tara Peinke’s father, or the soft chatter filling the air, but the ambience of Gala emits a comfort that puts me at ease.

Gala may be new to Santa Barbara, but owners Tara Peinke and Jaime Riesco (who doubles as head chef) are experts in the field. The husband-wife duo’s first venture, Picnic, took the Barcelona brunch scene to another level with their American-Chilean cuisine. After nearly twenty years, Tara, an American Rivera native, decided it was time to bring her family and her talents home. Thus, Gala was born.

The name is an ode to artist Salvador Dalí’s muse, his wife. As the evening progresses, I come to understand the choice of title. The entire experience mimics Dalí’s painting style—surreal.

We opt for a seat at the bar where the open arched window offers a clear view of lively Anacapa Street, perfect for people watching and catching the coastal California breeze. Perusing the menu, there are two avant-garde choices that describe Gala’s environment better than any explanation I could give: one to “buy the table next to you a glass of cava” and another to “buy the kitchen team a beer.” Here, no one is a stranger, and that’s exactly how Peinke and Riesco intended.

Tara describes their menu as a combination of what's in season, local, and loved by their family and diners. The rotating selection offers something new every time, but favorite dishes stay put. “We wanted to do a bit of a mix,” she says regarding the style of cuisine. “Much to people’s surprise, the Spanish don’t eat paella every night,” Peinke jokes.

Gala’s Beet Margarita and Ysidro Spritz accompany the serious food decisions that are to be made. The margarita’s perfect deep pink hue comes from the house hibiscus and beet syrup, which is fused with lime and fresh agave to satisfy every single taste bud. The Spritz is a quintessential summer cocktail—refreshing with a bit of a kick.

We begin the culinary portion with the Tempura Zucchini Flowers and Alaskan King Crab, both recommended and both living up to their acclaim. The in-season blossoms stuffed with haloumi cheese sit atop a romesco sauce. With a light crunch, the soft cheese filling levels the salty tempura beautifully, while the tomato puree offers a slight zip. Despite my Maryland origins, the Alaskan King Crab dish at Gala reaffirms my belief that this catch takes the crown. Stuffed in a canelone, baked with marinara and fresh parmesan, and topped with additional crab meat, the combo of tomato compote and crustacean is a match made in heaven.

Tara stops by to check in as we are practically scraping our appetizer dishes clean. Before I can ask for entree recommendations, she hints that you can’t move on from the first course without trying the fried green tomatoes and crudo. Who am I to deny a woman in her own home? Good thing we listened. The Fried Green Tomatoes give tastes of the South while elevated with corn salsa and a sweet chili sauce. There seems to be a theme—take a classic food loved by most and make it better. Thinly sliced local halibut crudo soaking in a layer of Leche de Tigre decorated with fresh wildflowers follows. The sauce’s lime flavor and earthy undertones partnered with the fish reminisce on the dish’s past home both on land and in sea.

The time has come for entrees, and after much consultation with our server, the couple sitting next to us, and Tara herself, we settle on the Mushroom Risotto and Branzino a la Plancha. The aroma of the vegetable rice dish arrives before the plate, as if to prepare us. Butter, thyme, and parmesan dance with oyster and portobello mushrooms putting on quite the performance. Once I start, I can’t stop. Cheesy, creamy, and comforting, the perfect risotto combination.

The neighboring table wonders, “What is that?” with wide eyes as the branzino floats in front of us. Settled between a fennel apple slaw and grilled polenta, the fish is a sight. It’s a melt in your mouth sea bass that emits a light salty flavor balanced by the sweetness of the fruit. The buttery polenta piques my interest—it’s amazing how something so simple provides so much texture and warmth, finishing the dish beautifully.

No meal is complete without something sweet. To preface what I am about to say, I have always been anti-cheesecake (controversial, I know). I do not like it—well did not like it. Gala’s cheesecake has me questioning all sorts of things I thought I knew about myself. It’s traditional in all senses: graham cracker crust, cream cheese-based filling, finished with the sweetest berries and compote. My usual denial of the dessert comes from the sourness, but this slice is mellow and complements the sweet crust instead of overpowering it. In case I still wasn’t sold, a slice of the carrot cake follows. The decadent sweet has mastered the fluffy cream cheese frosting to cake ratio and serves as another reminder that cheese absolutely belongs on the dessert menu.

As we finish our final bites, I survey the restaurant for Tara, who at this point in the evening feels like an old friend. She’s found sitting at a small table directly in front of the kitchen windows with her two young daughters, watching her husband prepare the dishes he and his family love for the people of Santa Barbara. On my way out, I stop by to say thank you for such a wonderful evening. She gives me a hug and expresses her gratitude for us joining them for dinner. We leave with a full stomach, full heart, and a promise to return to a place where not only can you feel the love, you can taste it.*