NOSH TOWN
by Claudia Schou
SUMMER’S ALL-AMERICAN (PANDEMIC) COOKOUT
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ummer is officially underway, so what better way to celebrate the season than to embrace the summer tradition of backyard grilling with family and friends? A cookout is the perfect way to practice social distancing with loved ones while satiating your gustatory appetites. Whether you’re in the mood for burgers, marinated meats, grilled tofu and veggies, it’s time to fire up the grill. Over the coming weeks, Montecito Journal will run a series of articles featuring culinary experts and businesses that we hope will inspire your grilling adventures all summer long.
ANTHONY ENDY EXECUTIVE CHEF AT ALISAL GUEST RANCH
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hough he’s been executive chef and full-time pit master at Alisal Guest Ranch & Resort for two years, Anthony Endy, a Santa Ynez Valley native and former corporate chef at Paul Martin’s American Grill, has already earned a reputation for sophisticated Coastal Ranch-style barbecue, cooked over an open fire and charred to perfection. Endy’s slow-cooked-to-perfection approach to mouthwatering barbecue draws aficionados near and far to the ranch for a seasonal BBQ Bootcamp, where guests learn techniques such as spice blending and smoking meat to grilling desserts and lighting a fire over an open pit. We asked Endy to share some of his summer grilling tips with our readers.
What is your BBQ flair? I cook Bold California BBQ. I not only have a fresh approach to Santa Maria-style, local oak wood fires in open pits, but I also slow smoke and grill with fresh ingredients. I honor tradition and promote innovation to the cuisine that surrounds the fire. What are you listening to when you’re grilling? Blues: Muddy Waters; Country: Eric Church; Americana: Ryan Bingham; Rock: Gary Carter Jr.; Hip Hop: anything from the ‘90s – Juicy, The Notorious B.I.G. LOMPOC VALLEY PINQUITO BEANS INGREDIENTS 1 lb. dry pinquito beans, see sources below Water to cover beans 2 cups Applewood smoked bacon, diced 1/2 cup smoked cooked ham, diced 1 cup white onion, diced 1/2 cup roasted Anaheim chilies, diced 2 tbsp. garlic, minced 1 tsp. ancho chile powder, optional
Q. What is your meat or seafood choice at the moment? A. I have so many, but right now I’m focusing on my roots with Tri-Tip. Growing up here on the Central Coast, Tri-Tip has always been an integral cut of beef to grill over an oak fire. Be sure and always buy high quality beef, for Tri-Tip I like to stick to Prime Angus or Wagyu breeds. What is your favorite go-to summer marinade? During summer I like bright acidic and fresh marinades with a touch a spice. You can’t go wrong with a classic chimichurri. You will need fresh herbs (cilantro, parsley, oregano) along with fresh garlic, lemon juice, white balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and chiles (I like fresh Fresno chiles or dried chile de arbol). In a blender, puree all the ingredients with salt and pepper to taste to bring the marinade together. This marinade is very simple to make yet packs a flavorful punch that can be added to pretty much everything – meats, vegetables, or used as a sauce on seafood. What is your favorite herb and seasoning for grilled fish? It really depends on the fish and my mood of the day. I generally like a fresh piece of white flaky fish simply prepared with sea salt, fresh lemon, extra virgin olive oil and touch of oregano and dried chile de arbol. I also love a classic Cajun blackening spice that toasts over a high heat fire (great for a seared tuna) finished with extra virgin olive oil. What are your favorite summer side dishes? Wow that’s like going to your favorite steakhouse and choosing one side. I love Lompoc Valley Pinquito Beans braised with bacon, onion, garlic, green chiles, ancho chile powder, lager, Worcestershire sauce, beef stock, and BBQ trimmings. You also can never go wrong with creamed corn, I add grilled poblano chilies to mine to give a needed smoky spice balance to the sweetness. What is your favorite condiment? My favorite goes in hand with the marinade – a classic chimichurri. I also don’t mind a good BBQ sauce – yes I said that. There is a time and place for a sweet, spicy sauce that is not too thick. I do at times crave a Roasted Tomato Salsa with a steak, a combination of flavors that speaks to my youth here in the Santa Ynez Valley. What are you grilling for dessert? Right now I am loving the peaches from Buttonwood Farms that are in season. They are great on the grill served with grilled pound cake and freshly whipped vanilla bean whipped cream. And I’m a chocolate guy that also loves mezcal sticky toffee pudding off the grill. This dish speaks volumes to when great products handled correctly and executed simply over the grill can be spectacular.
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Favorite BBQ tool? A good pair of tongs is always essential. There are a lot of gadgets out there but stick to the basics.
1 tsp. brown sugar 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. dry mustard 1 tsp. paprika 2 cups tomato puree 1 cup Worcestershire sauce 1/2 cup water
Rinse and check through the beans for small stones. Place the beans in a pot and cover with cold water and soak overnight. Drain the beans and return to the pot. Cover the beans with fresh, cold water by three inches and simmer over medium heat for 1.5 hours, or until tender. While the beans are cooking, make the sauce. Over medium high heat, sauté bacon in a saucepan over medium heat until lightly browned. Add the ham, onion, Anaheim chilies, and garlic and sauté two minutes longer. Add the ancho chile powder, brown sugar, salt, dry mustard, and paprika and sauté for another minute to toast the spices. Add the tomato puree, Worcestershire sauce, and water. Bring the mixture to a simmer and reduce to low heat and cook for 30 minutes while stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and reserve. When beans are cooked tender, drain all except for one cup of the cooking liquid. Return the beans and cup of liquid to the pot and stir in the sauce. Simmer on low heat for 30 minutes. Where to find Central Coast grown pinquito beans: Lompoc Beans, Lompoc Valley Seed •MJ & Milling 805.736.2517; lompocbeans.com
TASTING NOTES WITH SANTA BARBARA WINE COLLECTIVE MANAGER WYATT DAVIDSON
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anta Ynez Valley’s Storm Wines has been making some of the most elegant wines in Santa Barbara County since as early as 2006. Ernst Storm grew up in South Africa, where he studied winemaking and worked in both the Stellenbosch and Walker Bay regions. He settled in Santa Barbara County to explore the cooler growing areas and to focus on Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc from sites that embody elegance and show personality in their vintage. And the climate is not unlike the Western Cape, where his curiosity for winemaking began. Storm’s passion for wines with character shines through his 2019 Storm Sauvignon Blanc. The fruit for this Sauvignon Blanc was sourced from six vineyards at different corners of Santa Ynez Valley. Tropical notes and grapefruit dominate the nose that leads you to a palate filled with refreshing citrus, guava, melon, and a long delicious finish. Crisp and refreshing, this Sauvignon Blanc is a personal favorite for a warm summer day at the Santa Barbara Wine Collective, alongside a house-made cheese board and a freshly sliced baguette from our sister company, Helena Avenue Bakery. Or pick up a bottle to-go and enjoy at home with dinner. I love to enjoy mine with local Santa Barbara sea bass and grilled vegetables. •MJ
“If you have a secret, people will sit a little bit closer.” – Rob Cordry
9 – 16 July 2020