17 minute read
Lewis
from Not For Sale
NOSH TOWN Grenadier is one of the most under-loved species we see. This fish is often caught as bycatch from the black cod fishery and is an excellent clean-tasting whitefish fantastic for tacos. It also happens to have one of the largest biomasses in our oceans, making it not just tasty but sustainable. FRESH CATCH: by Claudia Schou For salmon novices, what is the difference between king salmon, Scottish salmon, and SUMMER’S SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD Atlantic salmon? Which is best on sushi night? King salmon is wild. Regardless of what you see on any menu, all Scottish and Atlantic S ummer is a great time of year for grilling fish, and Santa Barbara salmon are farmed. Both Scottish and Atlantic salmon are the same species; they are just grown in different areas of the world. Wild salmon are loaded with the complexities of the life Harbor, with its fleet of 200 smallit lived, the food it ate, the ocean it lived in, and the way it was caught, and this all adds to its boat commercial fishing vessels, unique flavor. The uncontrolled variables make for one hell of a bite. Since European farming boasts a bounty of seafood this seastandards are more strict than Canada and Chile, which produce the majority of Atlantic son. Wild king salmon, ahi tuna, salmon, Scottish is a better option for raw applications. When you see raw salmon at your halibut, white sea bass, black cod and favorite sushi spot, it’s usually Scottish salmon due to the fact that it carries raw consumption spiny lobster are just a few. If you’re certification while most Atlantic salmon does not. already in the mindset of shopping for produce that’s in season then Let’s talk sea urchin, which intimidates some people. apply that to your seafood selection. Uni, the edible part of the sea urchin, is the taste of the sea – sweet, briny, creamy and You will be reducing your carbon with a nutty finish. Santa Barbara sea urchins are known throughout the globe as being the footprint while supporting local busibest in the world. You just have to try it and you will see why these spiky sea creatures get nesses. all the hype.
While global fish markets have been hard-hit amid the COVIDDo you have an elevator pitch for salmon? 19 pandemic, the local demand has Salmon are anadromous. They have a natural GPS in their head which navigates them increased, according to Commercial back to the exact river they were born. It’s one of the most amazing miracles of the sea. So Fishermen of Santa Barbara, a nonnext time you have a bite of wild king salmon, remember their journey. profit that advocates on behalf of local fishermen. The organization is workFor more information about Santa Barbara Fish Market or to inquire about free delivery, visit ing to create a “Maritime Collective” sbfish.com. to meet the growing demand for local seafood. The harbor has seen a doubling of vendors at Saturday’s Fisherman’s Market and household delivery services like Get Hooked Seafood, a Community Supported Travis Riggs, VP of Santa Barbara Fish Market, says when it comes to grilling fish, “look for steak-y or firm fish such as swordfish, yellowtail, tuna, opah and white sea bass” TASTING NOTES WITH JOHAN DENIZOT, EXECUTIVE CHEF OF BELMOND EL ENCANTO S ummertime calls for outdoor picnics, lighter fare, and crisp regional wines. I love a classic Maine Lobster Roll this time of the year; it pairs best with wine from our Santa Ynez Fishery program, have taken off this year, according to Executive Director Kim Selkoe. neighbor, Sunstone Vineyards, and another Central Coast favorite of ours, DAOU Vineyards
You can still buy fresh catch straight from the boats in the harbor every Saturday from 7:30 in Paso Robles. am to 11 am. Santa Barbara Fish Market is shipping boxes of frozen local fish to households Belmond El Encanto’s Maine Lobster Roll is dressed with lemon mayo, romaine, tomatoes, regionally and nationwide. We recently spoke with Travis Riggs, VP of Santa Barbara Fish and scallions on a warm soft roll. These bright flavors are brought forward in a bottle of Market, to get the rundown on the best environmentally friendly fish to cook during the dog Sunstone’s Belmond Sauvignon Blanc, Charming Vista and a full-bodied DAOU Cabernet. days of summer. We launched a partnership with Sunstone Winery for this bottle as we appreciate the organic growing that is inherent within the Santa Ynez vineyard. The impeccable structure and acidity
Q. Where does SB Fish Market source from? of the Charming Vista Sauvignon Blanc pairs perfectly with the lobster roll. The DAOU
A. Our bread and butter is the fish that hits the dock, a stone’s throw from our shop here Cabernet can be seen as an unlikely pair with a seafood-forward dish, but the wine’s rich and in the Santa Barbara Harbor. We have long-lasting relationships with hard-working fishermen voluptuous aromas of chocolate, plum, and black fruit flavors balance out the buttery lobster and women that supply healthy, tasty and sustainable fish year-round. and compliment the spices nicely. The winery also does an excellent job of showcasing the Central Coast’s rare soil that makes for the perfect Cabernet Sauvignon.
Has the price for seafood increased during the pandemic?
Yes and no. Seafood markets are unstable due to the ever-changing pandemic, restaurant closures, as well as issues with flights coming in from abroad and export restrictions. Though CHEF JOHAN DENIZOT’S SUMMER LOBSTER ROLL there have been some pricing declines locally, fishermen are still getting fair prices. INGREDIENTS:
Serves 4
What’s in season at the moment? 8 oz cooked lobster meat
Right now we are having another amazing king salmon season. Santa Barbara fishermen 4 large leaves of celery, rinsed and patted dry are following salmon just north of Santa Barbara up to Bodega Bay. Our local fleet is also 1 tomato working hard targeting white sea bass, a delicious whitefish unique to our area in California. 2 scallions Other fish regularly hitting the dock right now are halibut, rockfish, yellowtail, bluefin tuna, 2 celery stalks black cod, ocean whitefish, and rock crab. 2 slices of thinly sliced red onion 4 soft brioche hot dog roll
What’s best for grilling? Lemon aioli
Look for steak-y or firm fish such as swordfish, yellowtail, tuna, opah, and white sea bass. These will hold up on the grill without breaking or falling apart. INSTRUCTIONS: The Maine lobster roll at Belmond El Encanto 1. Boil lobster in large pot for 10 to 12 min. pairs best with Sunstone’s Belmond Sauvignon
Care to share some tips for seafood grilling? 2. Remove lobster from pot and let it cool down Blanc, Charming Vista and a full-bodied DAOU 1) Pull your fish out of the fridge at least ten minutes before cooking. This will help the fish 3. Crack the lobster shell and remove meat, Cabernet cook evenly. including claws 2) After seasoning your fish with salt, pat dry before cooking. This will keep it from sticking 4. Cut lobster meat into 1/2 inch pieces to the grill. 5. Make lemon aioli by combining 1/4 cup of mayonnaise, 2 tbsp. of lemon juice, lemon 3) Get your grill hot. Fish will stick to your grill if it’s not hot enough. zest, sliced scallions (reserve a few sliced scallions for garnish) 1/2 tsp. sea salt and fresh 4) Season your grill. Once your grill is hot, rub grill grates with a rag or paper towel with oil. ground pepper to taste
This will help your fish from sticking and will give you those beautiful grill marks. 6. Mix lobster meat with lemon aioli 5) Don’t move your fish. Once you place your fish on the grill give it a few minutes to build 7. Assemble brioche buns on a large platter, add a few celery leaves along the outer edges, a crust before moving it. This will get you a nice char as well as prevent it from sticking. sliced tomato, and lobster aioli mixture. Garnish with chopped celery and a few slices of
What’s an underrated fish that you absolutely love? thinly sliced scallion. •MJ 42 MONTECITO JOURNAL “As long as the world is turning and spinning, we’re gonna be dizzy and we’re gonna make mistakes.” – Mel Brooks 6 – 13 August 2020
The Carriage House patio is now open for dining “I’m in town. These are big money sales and the last thing I would be thinking of is selling at any price. There is no price I would sell the Biltmore at for any reason.” The same thing goes for the Montecito Club. “I am trying to make the Club the best club in the United States, and the Biltmore the best hotel. To say we are for sale is the furthest thing from my thinking.”
San Ysidro Ranch Opens Three Outdoor Restaurants to Public
Warner said he had kept the San Ysidro Ranch open throughout the pandemic because the 41-cottage property is well suited for social distancing. The only time the hotel has been closed since Warner purchased it in 2000, was in the aftermath of the January 8, 2018 mudslides, which destroyed half the property.
Unlike his other properties, Warner’s San Ysidro Ranch, with its scattered cottages and plentiful outdoor space, is tailor-made for social distancing. “Obviously the Ranch is different than the other hotels,” Warner explained. Until recently, the Ranch’s two dining options, the Stonehouse, an intimately lit gourmet restaurant, and Plow & Angel, a cozy bar and bistro, were closed to the public and only serving guests via room service. Now, both restaurants are open to the public and offer outdoor patio seating – options include the upper terrace, lower garden, and wine cellar-adjacent locations. Warner said the Organic Soup Kitchen Founder Anthony Carroccio Ranch had added a third outdoor option for both guests and the public. and we hermetically seal the soup in a container so no pathogens can get in.”
“We added another place up there, the Carriage House,” Warner continued, Organic Soup Kitchen expanded its operations when the pandemic began so referring to the historic building that used to be known as the Hydrangea that its 20 or so volunteers could prepare and deliver meals to more than 600 Cottage. “So now there are three outdoor restaurants. Anybody can eat there. low-income seniors, chronically ill individuals, and cancer patients. The longer It’s outside. But you’re not eating on the street like on Coast Village Road. We the health crisis continues, the more isolated its already vulnerable clients have had two hundred people up there this past weekend.” become, the organization has said.
Warner has remained apprised of the goings-on at his various hotels, be they The kitchen has now added a free call-in helpline to provide its clients with a open or closed during the pandemic. “We’re always trying to be up to date,” he direct connection to its staff. “Handing food to the masses is not what we do,” concluded. “And yes, we’re involved.” said Andrea Slaby, Organic Soup Kitchen’s chief operating officer. “Our clients are not statistics who receive a brown paper bag lunch. We develop a relationOrganic Soup Kitchen Unveils New Helpline ship with our clients starting with the intake form we require.” Before the pandemic, the kitchen’s volunteer drivers would check in face-to
Since 2009, the Organic Soup Kitchen has been the only organization in Santa face with each client during meal deliveries. Because that is no longer an option, Barbara County to deliver nutrient-rich soup meals to low-income families and the helpline provides what the organization calls “an alternative opportunity homeless individuals. What started as a homespun effort to provide healthy to break the cycle of isolation.” Slaby said soup meal orders had tripled since meals to the homeless in local parks, has gradually become a successful, the pandemic started. “Ninety-five percent of our clients are struggling with self-sustaining enterprise with its own kitchen that works with cancer specialserious medical and financial challenges,” she said. “We want to provide extra ists to create recipes that help strengthen the immune system, increase energy, emotional support during this time of extreme fear and stress.” and promote body healing. The helpline will operate as a two-way resource and will be available for any
As the Montecito Journal reported in March, the kitchen hand-selects organic client to call in for specific support or simply to talk. Slaby said kitchen staffproduce and adds healthy fats, oils, and non-irradiated spices. Even the salt is ers would make weekly calls to check on each client’s emotional and physical Himalayan, which contains more nutrients than typical table salt, creating a health. The information is then uploaded onto each client’s personal chart to unique soup base full of essential vitamins and minerals. The meals go out to help the kitchen better meet each individual’s immediate needs; any needs that clients once a week in sealed packages that are hand-delivered throughout the fall outside the kitchen’s area of specialty are referred to outside agencies and county. services who can respond appropriately.
“It has to be a very sterile product,” founder Anthony Carroccio told us at For more information, visit www.organicsoupkitchen.org or call 805-364-2790. the time. “All our produce is organic; all the herbs and spices are non-radiated, To make a donation, simply visit www.organicsoupkitchen.org/give-once. •MJ 44 MONTECITO JOURNAL “Life literally abounds in comedy if you just look around you.” – Mel Brooks 6 – 13 August 2020
VILLAGE BEAT (Continued from page 12) California’s beautiful coast enjoy a quieter lifestyle, and while he had no intention of buying a salon, the Salons were ordered to close mid-March, and were allowed to reopen for indoor services on May 26, only to be shut down again on July 14. A week later, State guidelines were modified to allow for some personal care services to take place outside. “We’ve been through the ringer, having to close and then able to reopen, only to be told to close again. At this point we are grateful to be able to serve our customers in this way,” Ramirez told us earlier this week through his face mask, adding that several other salons and barbershops have chosen not to reopen at this time, for various reasons.
Ramirez and his team are open for business on the shop’s back patio, overlooking the parking lot on Coast Village Circle. With three of his five barber chairs in use outside, Ramirez says they are keeping busy, and are at about 45% of normal business. The back patio allows for more privacy and to maintain hygienic standards, rather than being on the front patio next to restaurants, who are also under restrictions to only serve food outside. “This is the perfect place for us to set up shop,” Ramirez said.
To schedule a haircut, call (805) 280-5521.
Lucky’s to Open at Malibu Country Mart
Lucky’s owner Gene Montesano announced this week that his iconic Montecito steakhouse will boast a second location at the Malibu Country Mart and opening up in such an iconic destination,” said Montesano in a statement. “The Malibu Country Mart is truly the heart of this wonderful community and we are honored to be joining it.” An integral part of The Montesano Group, founded by Montesano of Lucky Brand fame – and in collaboration with longtime partners Jimmy Argyropoulos In addition to announcing the impending opening of a secand Herb Simon – Lucky’s ond Lucky’s Steakhouse location in Malibu, the eatery has has honored the classic relaunched lunch service American steakhouse tradition since its 1999 opening in Montecito. The acclaimed restaurant is beloved by locals and celebrities alike for its USDA Xavier Scordo and team have taken their hairstyling and nail services outside, in order to adhere to lar, warm and friendly atmosphere, and unparalleled service, led by General state guidelines Manager and Executive Chef Leonard Schwartz. stations on the front patio of his nameThe new Malibu restaurant, led by Executive Chef Michael Rosen, will feasake salon, offering four hairstyling ture a classic steakhouse menu, similar to the Montecito location. The space stations and one manicurist station, has been designed by Montecito’s The Warner Group Architects, and is both as well as a special shampooing stacomfortable and glamourous, similar to Montecito’s location. It will be open for tion on the side of the building. “It both lunch and dinner, and is expected to open mid-September. didn’t make sense for us to open if we The Montesano Group includes Lucky’s Steakhouse, Tre Lune Restaurant, couldn’t offer color and shampoos, as D’Angelo Bakery, and Joe’s Café, along with retail clothing store Civilianaire, that is the majority of our business,” located in Montecito. Malibu Country Mart encompasses six acres of prime real he said. “We wanted to make the space estate in the heart of Malibu, with a mix of high-end and luxury retail, dining, look beautiful, and feel as normal as and service offerings. The buildings are complemented by gardens, unique possible.” The space feels complete sculptures, outdoor dining and picnic areas, and the popular children’s playwith planters, mirrors, electricity for ground (www.malibucountrymart.com). hair drying, and more. Here at the Montecito Lucky’s, the eatery recently relaunched lunch ser
Scordo, who hails from Paris, moved vice, the first time offering it from their newly built parklet terrace. The menu to Montecito about five years ago to includes small plates and starter salads, main course salads including a Cobb, work for Jose Eber at the Four Seasons Richie Ramirez of Richie’s Barber Shop is open for the Tuna Niçoise, and Poached Salmon Salad, sandwiches like the Lucky Resort the Biltmore. With over 27 years business on his back patio Burger, Reuben Sandwich, Maine Lobster Roll, and more, and an array of other of hairstyling experience, Scordo has worked in television and print styling, and dishes and sides. Lunch hours are Monday through Friday, 11 am to 2:30 pm. owned his own salon in Paris for many years. He says he came to Montecito to For more information, please visit www.luckys-steakhouse.com. opportunity arose to purchase Belle de Jour. “My life has always been about opportunities, so I decided to take it!” he said. Suzani Feature Event at Kathryne Designs
Scordo and his team, which includes former Belle de Jour owners and stylists Kathryne Designs on Coast Village Road currently has a limited time offering Michele Mallet and Joel Mallet, as well as stylist Emily Miller and nail techniof Suzani tapestries and textiles, featuring a collection from Uzbekistan. cian Bobbi Younce, are ready to serve their clientele in the fresh air. Clients and Suzanis are one-of-a-kind hand embroideries using silk threads on cotton, stylists are required to wear face coverings, and have their temperature taken silk, or linen foundations. The designs are inspired by ancient Ottoman, East before services. Scordo says they are prepared to continue to work outside, Indian and some classic Chinese motifs. They reflect the beauty in nature with as long as the weather permits. Xavier Scordo Salon is located at 1236 Coast vines, flowers, trees, animals, and orbs representing the sun and moon. The Village Road. motifs symbolize joy, long life, prosperity, fruitfulness, and hospitality, and the
Over at Richie’s Barber Shop in Coast Village Plaza, owner Richie Ramirez tapestries can be used for upholstery, framed to create an amazing work of art, is relieved that Governor Gavin Newsom has allowed barber shops and salons draped over sofas, tablecloths or bed toppers. to offer their services outdoors, following in the footsteps of restaurants, who Kathryne Designs is located at 1225 Coast Village Road; visit www.kath were allowed to expand into outdoor space and parking areas back in May. rynedesigns.com for more information. •MJ
prime steaks and fresh seafood, classic cocktails and award-winning wine celthis fall. “From Santa Barbara to Malibu, we are thrilled to be expanding down Kathryne Designs has a special Suzani textile event happening now 6 – 13 August 2020 • The Voice of the Village • MONTECITO JOURNAL 45