Montecito Journal Glossy Edition Summer/Fall 2019 by Montecito Journal

montecito JOURNAL Summer/ Fall â&#x20AC;¢ 2019

4450 Via Alegre, Hope Ranch $6,400,000 4 Bed | 4.5 Bath | Âą6,015 Sq Ft | Âą2.39 Acres Unique and fabulous opportunity to own one of Santa Barbaraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s high quality modern/contemporary estate homes. Located in the prestigious Hope Ranch community and convenient to the multiple amenities that Santa Barbara has to offer. This home is situated on approx 2.39 acres with north facing city and mountain views; features 4 bedrooms 4.5 baths, and a grand master suite with an amazing view deck. The pool provides an exquisite entertaining area for friends and family. Enter thru the gates along a beautiful tree lined driveway that leads you to this private estate.

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Compass is a real estate broker licensed by the State of California and abides by Equal Housing Opportunity laws. License Number 01991628. All material presented herein is intended for informational purposes only and is compiled from sources deemed reliable but has not been verified. Changes in price, condition, sale or withdrawal may be made without notice. No statement is made as to accuracy of any description. All measurements and square footages are approximate.

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3. 1514 EAST MOUNTAIN DRIVE MONTECITO $6,450,000 4. 540 MCLEAN LANE BIRNAM WOOD, MONTECITO $5,750,000 ©2018 Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices California Properties (BHHSCP) is a member of the franchise system of BHH Aﬃliates LLC. BHH Aﬃliates LLC and BHHSCP do not guarantee

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9. 2029 BOUNDARY DRIVE BIRNAM WOOD, MONTECITO $4,475,000

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COLDWELL BANKER RESIDENTIAL BROKERAGE The property information herein is derived from various sources that may include, but not be limited to, county records and the Multiple Listing Service, and it may include approximations. Although the information is believed to be accurate, it is not warranted and you should not rely upon it without personal verification. Real estate agents affiliated with Coldwell Banker Residential Brokerage are independent contractor sales associates, not employees. Â©2019 Coldwell Banker Residential Brokerage. All Rights Reserved. Coldwell Banker Residential Brokerage fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Owned by a subsidiary of NRT LLC. Coldwell Banker and the Coldwell Banker Logo are registered service marks owned by Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC.

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montecito JOURNAL Volume 12 Issue 1 Sum m er/Fall â&#x20AC;˘ 2019

Publisher & Editor Tim Buckley tim@montecitojournal.net Art Director Trent Watanabe Copy Editor Lily Buckley Harbin Administration Christine Merrick Diane Davidson Account Managers Tanis Nelson: tanis@montecitojournal.net Susan Brooks: sue@montecitojournal.net Justine Hamilton: justine@montecitojournal.net Contributors: Natasha Benjamin, Hattie Beresford, James Buckley, Jerry Camarillo Dunn, Jennifer Blaise Kramer, Steven Libowitz, Kelly Mahan Herrick, Eva Van Prooyen, Hana-Lee Sedgwick, Megan Waldrep, Ted Mills, Briana Westmacott, Jeff Wing

Montecito Journal (glossy edition) is published by Montecito Journal, Inc. James Buckley, President Corporate Offices located at 1206 Coast Village Circle, Suite H Montecito, CA 93108 For distribution, advertising, or other inquiries: (805) 565-1860

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T E AM S C AR B OR OUG H Santa Barbara • Montecito • Hope Ranch

1 4 2 8 E A S T VA L L E Y R O A D | M O N T E C I T O WO R K

W I T H

U S

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1 4 8 0 C A N T E R A AV E N U E

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MONTECITO

ANN SCARBOROUGH 8 05. 33 1 .1 1 1 5 DRE#0150902

teamscarborough.com team@teamscarborough.com

JIM SCARBOROUGH 80 5 .331 .1 46 5 DRE#01182792

©2019 Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices California Properties (BHHSCP) is a member of the franchise system of BHH Affiliates LLC. BHH Affiliates LLC and BHHSCP do not guarantee accuracy of all data including measurements, conditions, and features of property. Information is obtained from various sources and will not be verified by broker or MLS. Buyer is advised to independently verify the accuracy of that information.

CONTENTS 32

THIS SIDE OF PARADISE

This time last year, the Four Seasons Biltmore had just reopened after five months of closure and the San Ysidro Ranch was still nine months away from opening after both were damaged in the January 2018 debris flow. Now, not only have the two resorts bounced back and flourished, they are joined by the reopening of both the Rosewood Miramar Beach and Montecito Club, two properties completely upgraded and desirable for different reasons.

46 CONVERSATIONS Steven Libowitz sits down with celebrated author and longtime Montecito resident T.C. Boyle in his Frank Lloyd Wrightdesigned home near Coast Village Road. Boyle’s seventeenth novel, Outside Looking In, explores human consciousness and centers around a grad student studying under famed psychedelic therapist Timothy Leary.

50 MONTECEATO Coast Village Road looks a lot different these days. If you take a stroll along the entirety of the bustling thoroughfare, you’ll find that it is bookended by two new restaurants: Scratch Restaurants’ 10-seat omakase Sushi|Bar that opened in April of this year, and fall 2018’s Bettina, a pizzeria with an impressive drink menu in the Montecito Country Mart. In between, you’ll discover other new eateries like Oliver’s and The Honor Bar, but some things haven’t changed: you can still stop in for coffee at Jeannine’s, a sandwich at Montecito Deli, and cashew chicken at China Palace.

60 THE WAY IT WAS

The Miramar has been a happening place in Montecito for more than a century. Hattie Beresford dives into the history of the first era of the iconic property, when it was owned by the Doulton family and became a resort almost by accident in 1889. Take a journey through its storied past via photographs and newspaper clippings that include tales of lively parties, visiting Hollywood stars, and one particularly odorous deceased whale.

(cover art by Amy Logsdon | www.momentmaps.com ) 22 |

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CONTENTS 76

MONTECITO WINEMAKERS

Family owned and operated, Babcock Vineyards started as 20 acres of varietals in the Santa Ynez Valley in 1978. It is now one of the most ubiquitous names in wine you’ll find in Santa Barbara and beyond. Winemaker Bryan Babcock has branched off from the traditional approach to growing vines, and is moving into Agristhetics, embracing the natural way a vine grows.

90 EUROLOG 2019

Sure, planes, trains, and automobiles are a fun way to explore Europe. But James Buckley and his family decided to see the continent another way: on the water. They boarded three cruises on the waterways of Europe: The Regent Seven Seas Voyager, taking them from Monaco to France, Spain, Italy, Greece, and more; the Après Tout canal barge along the Canal du Centre in the heart of Burgundy, France; and AmaWaterways’ AmaCerto river cruise to visit and eat their way through Central Europe’s Christmas Markets.

120 ON FINE ART

What was once a 1950s-style Union 76 gas station on Coast Village Road is now an attractive new development that houses the fifth location of Heather James Fine Art gallery. Experiencing last year’s debris flow in the middle of development might have scared some business owners off, but instead it made husband and wife team James Carona and Heather Sacre even more sure of their desire to be part of our intimate community.

130 THE ART OF MYSTERY

From his studio in the Funk Zone, Sol Hill creates pieces of art called metagraphs using light, but they are decidedly not photographs. He captures energy in ways that create mystery to the viewer, and uses the pieces as a form of social activism.

138 BASKE IN THE GLOW

With over twenty years of fashion experience, husband and wife team Dave Sumares and Nana Baek’s boutique Baske California offers handcrafted shoes and relaxed clothing from independent brands. Find the limited-edition items in their boutiques in the Funk Zone and on Coast Village Road in Montecito.

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142 REEF MADNESS

Manuel Cojuangco and Jacques Branellec joined forces in 1979 to create Jewelmer, in hopes of becoming the leading brand of golden South Sea pearl jewelry in the world. It ended up being much more than that. They founded the Save Palawan Seas Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated to introducing Palawan’s people to self-sustaining economic structures. Glenn Espig, owner of the upper village’s longtime Oliver and Espig Gallery, has become Jewelmer’s representative and partner in the U.S., and oversees its U.S. storefront presence in Palm Beach.

152 CURIOUS TRAVELER

Jerry Camarillo Dunn, Jr. takes readers on a tour of Old Québec, the historic and romantic city in eastern Canada. From seeing the impressive Château Frontenac, a historic hotel opened in 1893, to eating the Québecois specialty poutine and walking the picturesque streets, it’s easy to see why this walled city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a top destination for travelers.

166 MASTERPIECE MAKERS

Take a behind-the-scenes look at the team behind Montecito’s stunning estates, manicured lawns, and impressive gates. From architects to landscape designers, from tile experts to interior decorators, we profile some industry leaders that help make Montecito one of the world’s most desirable places to live.

184 OFF THE COAST

The ocean water surrounding the Channel Islands, eleven miles off the coast of Santa Barbara, is teeming with life, including kelp forests, marine critters, and elusive sharks. Much of it is unexplored, and Marine Applied Research and Exploration (MARE) is here to change that.

190 REAL ESTATES

With its perfect weather and idyllic scenery, it’s no secret that Montecito is one of the most sought-after locales for peaceful, sophisticated living. Take a look at some of the offerings on the market currently, from expansive ranches in the Santa Ynez Valley, to a Mediterranean villa in town designed by Don Nulty. If you’re looking to buy in Montecito, you will have no shortage of impressive properties from which to choose.

CONTRIBUTORS Briana Westmacott – A lecturer for writing

Hana-Lee Sedgwick – Fifth generation

Jeff Wing – Jeff is a besotted typist who finds

Hattie Beresford – Hattie is a native of the

courses at UCSB, her alma mater, Briana has been a columnist for the Santa Barbara Sentinel for seven years and a Santa Barbara local for over 20 years. When she isn’t teaching or writing, she loves to spend time on the beach, in the mountains, or anywhere with a good book. Summer is her favorite season, typically dedicated to traveling the world with her husband and two daughters.

everyone and everything interesting and emotionally stirring, sometimes to his discredit. He writes the State Street Scribe column for the Santa Barbara Sentinel and has otherwise written for both the university and a jittery, self-congratulating tech startup, with stops along whatever bumpy continuum connects the two. He came to California as a singer in a band an eon ago, speaks halting Dutch (through delightful marriage), adores Mancini, Morricone, Andy Partridge, Marc Chagall, Thomas McGuane, the vaguely extraterrestrial T.C. Boyle, and the churlish, exalting Philip Larkin. All he wants to do is write. Just about.

Jerry Dunn – Jerry’s Curious Traveler column

in Montecito Journal won the gold medal from the Society of American Travel Writers. His wanderlust began as a 22-year-old vagabond with a backpack, listening for the Oracle at Delphi (Greece) and acting as an extra in Bollywood movies (India). It has continued through 34 years with National Geographic, 11 books, and 600-plus articles – work recognized with three SATW Lowell Thomas Awards, the “Oscars” of travel writing.

Natasha Benjamin – Natasha is Marine

Applied Research & Exploration (MARE) Policy & Outreach Director. She has nearly 20 years experience working in marine science and policy, and has a strong dedication to ocean conservation. At MARE, she develops outreach and development strategies to support the organization’s deepsea research to inform ocean and fisheries policy. Natasha works closely with MARE Executive Director and Founder Dirk Rosen.

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Californian Hana-Lee is a writer and editor specializing in wine, food, and travel. Hana-Lee resides in her hometown of Santa Barbara and happily spends her downtime eating, drinking, and wandering, documenting it on her blog, Wander & Wine.

Netherlands and retired teacher of English and American history for the Santa Barbara School District. Besides writing a local history column for Montecito Journal for more than a decade, she has written two Noticias and co-edited My Santa Barbara Scrap Book, the memoir of local artist Elizabeth Eaton Burton, for the Santa Barbara Historical Museum. Her most recent book, The Way It Was ~ Santa Barbara Comes of Age, is a collection of a few of her nearly 300 articles written for the Journal. When she is not immersed in some dusty tome, she can be found on the tennis courts, hiking paths, or on the nation’s rail trails peddling with her husband, former Dos Pueblos volleyball coach Mike Beresford.

Kelly Mahan Herrick – Kelly is originally from

Newbury Park, California, moving to Santa Barbara 18 years ago to attend UCSB. She has written for Montecito Journal for nearly a decade, writing her weekly Village Beat column and covering a plethora of news items and real estate happenings. She is also a licensed realtor with Berkshire Hathaway and shares her love for Santa Barbara every step of the way. Kelly and her husband, Jason, live in Santa Barbara with their sweet dog, Pickles.

Ted Mills – Ted is a long-time writer on the

arts, a writer-director of film, artist, and currently host of funkzonepodcast.com, where he interviews artists and creative folks in, around, and visiting Santa Barbara. He fancies himself as a bit of a bon vivant and a mixologist, loves to emcee events, and would love to be on your trivia team.

Jennifer Blaise Kramer – Jennifer is a Santa

Barbara-based writer and editor who covers lifestyle, travel, home, and design for various publications, including House Beautiful, Condé Nast Traveler, C Magazine, Domino, and Sunset. As a California native, she’s fascinated with Montecito’s landmark hotels and iconic properties and examining how old meets new in our neighborhood and beyond.

Eva Van Prooyen – Eva is a licensed

marriage and family therapist, writer, relationship specialist, and self-professed wine geek. She moved from Truckee to Santa Barbara in 1989. Since then, she has been managing editor of Montecito Journal (weekly), became co-founder and co-owner of the Santa Ynez Valley Journal, worked for and received her master’s degree in clinical psychology and now runs a busy private therapy practice. She continues to write for various publications, enjoys her time on the yoga mat, and is in constant pursuit of a good laugh.

Steven Libowitz – Steven has reported on

the arts and entertainment for more than 30 years. He has published his work in daily and weekly newspapers in New Jersey and California, as well as in Santa Barbara Magazine and a nationally syndicated news service. When not at his computer or out on the town, you’ll often find him playing volleyball at East Beach, just a short jog from Montecito’s famous Butterfly Beach.

Megan Waldrep – Megan’s literary journey,

Barbara Sentinel.

since moving to Carpinteria in 2013 with a children’s book under her belt, has included freelance writing for several local publications such as Montecito Journal, Carpinteria magazine, DEEP magazine, and her most recent role as Creative Director of the Santa

PUBLISHER’S NOTE A REMARKABLE REVIVAL

t had to happen; after all, we’re talking about Montecito. And, if you zoom into the spaces between the letters “M” and “o” you’ll find not only history, seclusion, near-perfect weather (well, most of the time), polo, tennis, golf, swimming, bocce, and celebrity, but also MUS and Cold Spring schools, El Montecito, Mt. Carmel, Crane Country Day School, and Laguna Blanca. Looking even closer (between the “o” and the “n”) you’ll find resilience and perseverance. As mentioned before, we’re talking about Montecito.

It’s been more than a year and a half since the unfortunate incidents of December 2017 and January 2018. California’s largest wildfire (up to that point) led to a massive mud-and-debris slide that knocked Montecito down... but not out. Some prognosticators had us down for “up to ten years.” Others suggested it would take “four to seven years” to recuperate. More optimistic folk (and I’ll put us in this category) figured it might be “three to five years before the real estate market came back.” I am happy to report we were all wrong. Montecito lost 10% to 15% of its housing stock to the dual disasters, which seriously reduced the supply of desirable housing, creating a demand. Although some insurance companies considered removing themselves from our market, none did, though a few refused to consider taking on new clients... for a time. The rainy season is finally over (we think!) and yes, we had a couple of “evacuations,” but even those only served to point out how deep our creeks now are and how more capable they are of handling any overflow. Steel nets over three of our five major creeks are already installed and ready to capture and slow many more cubic yards of possible wayward debris. Debris basins are clear and at least one new one is being developed. The threat of wildfire has been seriously reduced, as it will take years, perhaps a decade, of growth (and, boy, did we have growth with this year’s abundant rainfall) before we have to worry about fire again. On top of all that, a bustling crop of new and vibrant businesses have sprouted up along Coast Village Road and in the upper village. Apparently the publicity – negative though it was – spotlighted the attractiveness of Montecito. Overnight, we have become what we’ve been predicting we’d be one day for some time: the culinary center of the Central Coast. People from not only Los Angeles and San Francisco are descending upon Montecito in greater numbers, but some days it seems half of Santa Barbara has decided to spend the day in Montecito. The re-opening of the Miramar, now Rosewood Miramar Beach, has brought new life, as has the resurgence of the Four Seasons Biltmore, Montecito Inn, the Montecito Club, and San Ysidro Ranch. Demand for retail and restaurant space has exploded and every chef worth his condiments is looking to open here. In effect, it took just over a year to recuperate. We’re not 100% yet, and some residents who lost so much may never fully recover, but on the whole, retail is back, real estate is strong, and demand is through the roof. So, whether you’re a newbie or you’ve lived here for half a century, we welcome you to the Montecito that was and remains: the best little village anywhere. Tim Buckley Publisher

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This Side of Paradise BY JENNIFER BLAISE KRAMER

Old meets new as Montecito shifts into a new era of hospitality.

rom one end to another, Montecito is making a lot of noise. The debut of the Rosewood Miramar Beach has brought a new wave of change that’s splashed up both wild excitement and wary hesitation, as change often does. On the other side

of town, the Montecito Club is sparking inquiry calls across the country with its brandnew bold look. During all this, the San Ysidro Ranch and Four Seasons Biltmore quietly reopened after repairing their properties from last year’s debris flow, and both remain Montecito anchors in this shifting season of hospitality and clientele. New, old, loud, quiet, modern, classic – the opposing ends present two different ideals. It’s almost a tale of two cities that has residents chattering about the best of it and the worst of it, while asking each other which side of paradise they most belong.

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(photo courtesy of Montecito Club)

Paradise

The Miramar: Open Door Policy

spoke of his 12-year love affair creating the hotel for the community. This is the first hotel project for Caruso, best known for developing The Grove in Los Angeles, who bought the property from Ty Warner in 2007. Carrying on through a recession and a debris flow, he took

n a windy, blue sky April morning, a well-dressed crowd of

these hurdles as opportunities to make the resort even greater. Taking

high heels, short skirts, and suits gathered on the circular

great to grand is part of Caruso’s M.O. He envisioned a modern resort

stone drive of the new Rosewood Miramar hotel. Any visions of

with throwback details and in turn he rebuilt the former boardwalk,

its many past lives – including the nearly 20 years it sat vacant

hung archival hotel photos in the lobby, and looked to Pantone to

– vanished while everyone stared at the Gatsby-esque manse of

recall the classic Miramar shade of blue.

a hotel. A cheerful Rob Lowe greeted everyone and spoke of his

“I was conscious to include some of those nostalgic and time-

childhood memories at the old Miramar-by-the-Sea, drinking

honored touches to acknowledge the beauty and rich history of this

milkshakes and watching the trains rush by.

site,” he says. “One of my favorite nods to the old are the blue crystals

While an Italian flag flapped in the wind, developer Rick Caruso

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we placed discreetly within our chandeliers in the ballroom, a reference

Paradise

(photos courtesy Rosewood Miramar Beach)

to the blue-tiled roofs of the Miramar that the locals remember so fondly.” After Caruso cut the large white ribbon, singers stepped in, crooning lyrics found from the old bar, “How I long to be there, where there’s love in the air.” The crowd sauntered into the marble lobby where six violinists were staggered along the winding staircase, then moved down the great lawn, across the railroad tracks, and over to the bar for a lavish spread of seafood, cheese, and Champagne.

Paradise The Miramar is every bit shiny and happy with crowds of good-

comfortable while also soaking in every luxury,” Caruso says, and to his

looking people at every turn and candy cotton pink jollies to shuffle

credit, it’s easy to run into many familiar faces during cocktail hour on

guests around. Gwyneth Paltrow set up shop inside with a permanent

any given evening as the Manor Bar fills up and crowds wander down

GOOP pop-up, as did the chic Malibu Farms restaurant. The bars

at sunset to the Miramar Bar, which was modeled after the owner’s

have become a hot local hangout and when Caruso’s restaurant opened

yacht. You may spot your neighbor sipping a Negroni by the piano

it almost instantly had a two-month wait for reservations. It’s a scene

or Rob Lowe outside with a milkshake. Adds Caruso: “In many ways

to be seen in and the undeniable energy is well documented on

Miramar will be an extension of your backyard.”

Instagram near and far. “I never build to sell, so getting to know the community and being good neighbors is a priority for me and for my team. Montecito has welcomed us warmly, and we have opened our doors for [neighbors and residents] in much the same way we have travelers,” Caruso says. Between launching community activities such as a bocce ball league and hosting an extravagant Easter Brunch, it’s clear that

San Ysidro Ranch: Privacy Please

he first wave of guests to sit on the shores of the original Miramar also had a choice to stay at the San Ysidro Ranch.

residents have an open-door policy to frolic at the resort. So much so

Built in 1892, the Ranch has an almost sacred history as a sanctuary,

that teenagers hit the lobby after school to grab an apple, creating an

farmland, and citrus grove – which is why the Plow & Angel restaurant

“Eloise at the Plaza” atmosphere.

has its saintly and perfectly pastoral name. Over the decades, famous guests including Lucille Ball, Winston Churchill, and Vivien Leigh

(photo by Edward Clynes)

“This was built to be like your home, where you can be incredibly

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LOS ANGELES | MONTECITO (323) 851-0395 | JOHNDD.COM

Paradise

(photos courtesy of San Ysidro Ranch)

visited the idyllic haven to rest, write, or retreat. Honeymooners John F. Kennedy and his wife, Jacqueline, stayed there and Gwyneth Paltrow and Chris Martin married there as the grounds offered not just beauty, but something almost more important: privacy. Ty Warner acquired the property in 2000 and remodeled the Ranch all while keeping the quiet, peaceful nature. He was determined to rebuild after the debris flow, which along with a ruptured gas line, hit the hotel hard, destroying half the 41 cottages. Rather than take an opportunity to create something different, Warner and his team

38 |

Paradise aimed to make it look like nothing ever happened. True enough,

the cellar – nothing formal, just a friendly neighborly act. Keeping

San Ysidro Ranch reopened after 15 months of intense repairs.

its international allure, the Ranch remains a relaxed, unassuming

Amenities were improved and the gardens were lovingly restored,

retreat, spanning 500 acres. Couples stroll the gardens and paths

with a memorial bench in place, but to an unknowing eye, the

after dinner, basking in privacy and peace, just as if it really was their

resort looks just as it did before.

own backyard.

“They tried to put it back exactly the way it was,” says Erinn Lynch of Blaze PR, who has worked with Warner for several years. The reopening itself was hushed; not even the website, which is more of a generic landing page, was retooled, forgoing the typical flash and frenzy of most hotel sites. At the Ranch, it seems as if time stands still, or history just keeps repeating itself in the very best way. In March, generations of repeat guests came back while neighbors, both relieved and enthused, poured into the Stonehouse

The Montecito Club: Global Appeal

oodbye Country. That’s what owner Ty Warner and his team decided to do when reimagining the Montecito Country

Club. For a man who is notoriously quiet and private, just like his San

and Plow & Angel restaurants. Inside, guests (with and without

Ysidro Ranch, he flipped a switch with this club, stunning private and

celeb status) frequently convene quietly as well-behaved kids

hopeful members when the doors reopened on March 29 this year. The

color on the paper tablecloths. A sommelier is always on hand to

great room off the entry is completely redone with Venetian plaster

recommend a secret bottle, once in a while offering a sneak peek at

ceilings, Swarovski crystal chandeliers, and solid African mahogany

(photo courtesy of Montecito Club)

40 |

Paradise

(photos by Peter Malinowski, courtesy of Montecito Club)

doors hand-carved in Morocco and handpainted on site to open up dramatically to the club’s original, 101-year-old floors. Aiming to marry the best of what was there with worldly décor, high tech features, and family-friendly hot spots, the new Montecito Club is many things. It’s a destination club, a social club, an exclusive club, and a dream club – just don’t call it a country club. “It’s so much more than a country club,” says Greg Villeneuve, club manager.

42 |

Paradise

“It’s more of a transformation than a renovation. We had one chance to change the name and we took it.” Redefining their look, name, and tone came with many upgrades. Spanning three and a half years and 75 million dollars, the new MC sports a par-71 Jack Nicklaus Signature golf course

The Biltmore: Modern Classic

or membership-based clubs, the Coral Casino is a classic with its cabana stripes and catalog cameos, and for long-rooted hotels,

with mature Monterey Cypress, live oak, and Sycamore trees and

the Four Seasons Biltmore is a local legend. Also hit by the mudslides,

challenging greens. It’s the first Nicklaus course in Santa Barbara

the 1927 resort closed for six months to renovate, enhancing guest

and golfers also enjoy tricked-out carts where they can play music

rooms and restoring all that existed from gold leaf to the lush gardens

and check scores. For the non-golfers, there’s the Rebound Ace

and grounds, which have been looked after by the same man for 20

tennis courts, a special surface that protects joints and enhances

years. With so much history behind the brand, the team (also under Ty

performance – and MC is the only club on the West Coast to offer

Warner’s management umbrella), carefully balanced how to keep the

the feature. There’s pickleball, lap pools, fitness, personal training,

Biltmore’s Old World appeal while also keeping up with the times.

and Moroccan-tiled locker rooms that will likely have builders busy replicating the concept on countless master bathrooms in town.

“In 2018 there was a lot of discussion, ‘Do we take the time to renovate and look different?’ Absolutely not. We’ve maintained our

“The response has been overwhelmingly positive” says Villeneuve. “From a sales perspective we’re in a very good place. We’ve had calls from all over the country.” Determined to be more family friendly, there’s a 22-seat Dolby theater where the entire ceiling is a speaker and kids kick back with candy bars. If not there, children and teens might be found Astroturf sledding, playing soccer, or at the batting cages. An arcade also has a black-lit, graffiti-lined bowling alley and the pool has underwater speakers and a splash zone for littles. “This is usually what you find at a destination club,” Villeneuve says. “You might spend a few weeks a year somewhere like this, but here you can live five miles away.” With all the painstaking attention to detail and luxe upgrades, down to the revamped bar and grill and the private, hand-plastered dining room, it’s the more casual feel that’s got people surprised. Jeans are allowed. Lycra-wearing moms, A-Okay. It’s about family

logo, the dress code had to change, too. “We’re not the old stuffy club up on the hill,” he says. “We want to celebrate the history. It’s a little new, a little old.”

(photo by Edward Clynes)

moving from one area of the club to another so like the modernized

Paradise

(photo by Edward Clynes)

Spanish Colonial look for ninety years,” says Emilie Plouchart, director

high season, the suite will be a test on where they land in the future

of public relations for the resort. “But, we are heading into a market

in terms of what guests want, be it old or new, quiet or loud, modern

with much more to offer than it did in the past, and we feel like we

or classic. “What we’ve seen with the Rosewood Miramar is that

have to evolve with the times.”

there is enough interest in this market for both types of clientele.

In an effort to modernize, this spring the Biltmore is rolling out the Anacapa Suite, 2,000 square feet of privacy, panoramic views,

Montecito is a destination and both hotels offer completely different experiences,” she says.

and the largest plunge pool on property. Complete with its own

Still a standby for holiday events and functions, the Biltmore

driveway, guests will soak undisturbed in an Italian bathtub and

remains one postcard in a growing collection of Montecito memories.

gaze at Butterfly Beach from the firepit. It’s a major resort upgrade

Local resident Carolyn Fitzgerald co-hosts annual fundraisers at the

that most guests will never see, but given that the suite is thoroughly

Biltmore, yet after-hours she often meets friends for cocktails at the

modern inside it represents a major detour that Plouchart says is

Miramar or shares a cozy dinner out with her family at San Ysidro

“totally out of our comfort zone and completely different than

Ranch. There’s no need to choose either/or in her book. As she says

anything the Biltmore has done.”

in a sing-song reminder echoing Plouchart’s words: “One is silver and

So far, the hotel is selling out every weekend. As it heads into

44 |

the other is gold.”

Conversations

T.C.

by Steven Libowitz

Boyle

“M

y passion is nature and the environment,” T.C. Boyle says, perhaps stating the obvious, as we’re sitting outside on one of the porches overlooking a thicket of trees amid

the wild yard outside the author’s Frank Lloyd Wright-designed

photo by Jamieson Fry

home, a historic example of the prairie-style organic architecture that sits not far above Coast Village Road in Montecito. “I’m fascinated by nature, and animals. If it weren’t for math, I would have been perfectly happy being a field biologist.” Thank goodness for calculus. Otherwise we might have been deprived of Boyle’s wicked world of black comedies replete with wordplay, wit, and heavy doses of irony, a catalog that now encompasses some 28 published books, including 17 novels and

Animal consciousness from a human perspective is also the subject

11 short story collections. Not surprisingly, the first was called

of his next novel, The Familiar, for which he was about 50 pages in

Descent of Man, originally published in 1979 while Boyle was still

when we spoke. “It’s about what other creatures know and what they

a Ph.D. candidate at the University of Iowa’s Writers Workshop,

could be thinking,” Boyle said. “I’m very intrigued by the intelligence

the title taken from Darwin’s work that applies evolutionary

of animals, and the language studies that have been done. It’s just

theory to human evolution.

always fascinated me, and I want to explore it again.”

46 |

Conversations Exploring, for Boyle, at least in his historical fiction works, means

“That’s exactly right,” he said. “I inhabit characters to see how the

diving deep into research, gathering facts and figures and personalities

world is put together and how other people might feel. With each of

to use as a springboard for his active imagination. It’s a formula that

them, I get to try on ‘What would that be like?’”

has worked for many of his novels, which weave his inventive scenarios

Outside Looking In, Boyle’s most recent book, about the early days

into situations from real life, with the reader left to guess about the

of LSD research and experimentation, published this past February,

departure points.

is populated by such historical figures as Timothy Leary and Richard Alpert, but the main character is an imagined graduate student at Harvard studying under Leary. “I’m fascinated by these guru figures like Leary – another in my

“When I create characters and the scenarios, I’m the one who decides what’s going to happen to them. It’s very controlled. I am the god of my universe. Out here, this (waves his arm), everything is chaos. It’s terrifying.”

Mt. Rushmore of American figures,” a list that also includes John Harvey Kellogg (The Road to Wellville), sex researcher Alfred Kinsey (The Inner Circle) and, much closer to home, architect Wright (The Women). “But I also wonder about the cost of being a follower, losing your individuality and ability to think freely,” he adds. A desire to think clearly is what kept Boyle from doing any firsthand experimentation to get closer to his subject before undertaking the writing. “I did every imaginable drug when I was a kid, including tripping several times,” he said dryly. “We were just crazy kids trying to get high. But I didn’t want to go back there again… I don’t want anything

“I find these bits of history that intrigue me, and I want to communicate them to you as they are,” Boyle explained. “But then I also want to find out what they mean. And the best way to do that is to inhabit a character who is part of the scene. You get both the facts that fascinate me, but also an interpretation. It’s free form. I don’t feel constrained by what actually happened to the historical characters. I don’t have to. I can have anything happen to them that I want.” Indeed, the Los Angeles Times recently said that “Boyle writes fiction as if he is conducting a laboratory experiment – testing how each of his characters responds to various events or conditions… an

“I’m completely fanatic about my routine. I walk the dog at 6 am and I always have classical music on when I’m writing. You want to assassinate me, you know where I’ll be every minute of every day.”

experiment in reality rather than a fabulist flight from it.”

Conversations to interfere with my work. My brain is just hanging on by a thread. I don’t want to mess with that.” Anyway, the high these days comes from the writing itself, Boyle said. “It’s always a puzzle, like any work of art, and it can be a pretty grueling process. It’s coming from some deep place in my subconscious, and I don’t know what it will be until it reveals itself, day by day and line by line. But it’s a very ecstatic experience to find your way to the end, have it come together and know that it’s right, and that it’s good.”

“Authors are usually introverts. I have that part of me when I’m writing. But I also used to front a rock and roll band. So, I love to read in public and turn people on to the stories.”

“I’m very amenable. I like everybody. And I approach life through That’s true even when the tone is dark via the exploration of the

humor because if you’re laughing you can’t be crying. But on the other

messiness of humanity that continues to intrigue Boyle no matter the

hand, there’s the human condition and the fact that life is not only

purported topic. That’s what the Times piece pointed to in referencing

mysterious but it’s irrelevant what you do, since we’re all under a death

Boyle’s writing about “the fathomless, inexpressible, heartbreaking

sentence anyway. Ever since humans had consciousness everybody has

loneliness of life on this planet.”

had to deal with that, which I do through my art… I keep re-working

“I’m telling it like it is,” Boyle agreed. “My stories are dark

the same themes about our place in the universe. What does it mean?

because that’s how I see life.” But then he smiles slightly when told he

What is it all about? That’s the essential question of human life, so

doesn’t seem so obsessed with existential darkness sitting out on the

that’s what I write about.”

porch, sipping sparkling water, nibbling on crackers and hummus,

Then he paused and a wry smile slowly crept across his face.

and noticing the swarm of bees that are buzzing about the flowers

“If I ever find the solution,” he said with a small laugh, “I can stop

blooming on the closest tree.

48 |

writing.”

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MONTECEATO:

THE FOOD SCENE ON COAST VILLAGE ROAD

BY HANA-LEE SEDGWICK

fresh crop of new restaurants has breathed new life into Coast Village Road and its surroundings, transforming the area into a Central Coast dining destination worth noting.

SCRATCH RESTAURANTS

will cherish and remember for many years.” Secure one of only eight coveted spots and expect to dine on

ne of the newer places to open is The Silver Bough, an

exquisitely plated food – prepared in front of you by Chef Lee and

intimate, eight-seat tasting experience inside the historic

team – highlighting some of the finest ingredients from around

Montecito Inn, launched and led by Chef Phillip Frankland Lee and

the globe, accompanied by optional wine (and in some cases sake)

his wife, Chef Margarita Kallas-Lee – the same team behind Montecito

pairings. “The Silver Bough is meant to be a restaurant that takes

Inn’s The Monarch restaurant and the newly opened, 10-seat omakase Sushi|Bar. The Silver Bough is fine dining with a nod towards opulence. Blending culinary theatrics with extravagant creations, The Silver Bough enchants and entertains with an over-the-top journey through 18 individually composed dishes, all of which align with the mythological story of The Silver Bough. “The Silver Bough is by far my most ambitious restaurant to date,” says Chef Phillip during a short interval between dishes. “The evening is meant to be an event – one we hope that epicurean pursuers and open-minded explorers alike

50 |

Monarch – photo by Jakob Layman

opened late last year. Owned by husband and wife team Brendan Smith and Rachel Greenspan, Bettina is built around the idea that a restaurant is as much about the vibe as it is the food. One step inside and it’s easy to feel welcomed by the cheery aesthetic of this neighborhood gem, from the curved marble bar to the pale pink window shades, but it’s the large pizza oven firing up Neapolitan-style pizzas (and the resulting mouthwatering aromas) that really draws one in. Sushi|Bar – photo by Christina Enoch

Bettina is the second venture in Santa Barbara County for the duo, who established their brick-and-mortar pizzeria following the

you out of your everyday

success of their mobile pizza-catering concept, Autostrada. Known

routine,” Chef Lee says,

for their wood-fired pizzas, with chewy crusts charred to perfection,

“and puts you into a world

Smith and Greenspan continue the tradition at Bettina, where pies

of luxury. The journey

are crafted using organic, naturally leavened sourdough that ferments

introduces you to some of

for at least 48 hours.

the rarest ingredients from

Pizza selections include elevated takes on classics, like the not-to-

all over the world.” From

be-missed Pepperoni with hand-pulled mozzarella, crushed tomato,

Live Spiny Lobster Tartare

chili oil, and a drizzle of Hollister Ranch honey. Farmers’ market-driven

with green tea, sea urchin,

specialties that change according to what’s in season (think Sunchoke

tomato aspic, salted cream, and puffed quinoa to Aged Venison Saddle

with cheddar and escarole and Spring Pesto with kumquat and feta) are

with brown butter, smoked chestnut, Chanterelle mushrooms, and

also placed in that not-to-be-missed category. Complementing the pies

Tokyo turnips, each dish corresponds to elements of the land and sea,

is a menu of antipasti and shareable plates, which Greenspan describes

with courses separated into three distinct “Acts.”

as “California cuisine with an Italian accent.” Adds Smith, “We’re most

With a hefty price tag of $550 per person (all inclusive) and seatings

inspired by Italian food culture and their mentality when it comes to

that are offered only once per evening, Thursday through Sunday, The

sourcing locally, and we take that ethos to conjure up Italian-themed

Silver Bough isn’t meant to be a weekly destination. Rather, it’s an

dishes that use local or domestic ingredients.”

extravagant experience that can be savored long after polishing off the last of Chef Kallas-Lee’s Tarragon-Buttermilk bonbons.

Accompanying the food menu is a well-curated beverage list featuring new and Old World wines, craft beers, and a large selection of spritzes, vermouth cocktails, and the like. Dinner reservations go

BETTINA

quickly, but walk-ins are welcome at either of the bars (a traditional bar faces the alcohol while another bar-top faces the pizza oven). Regardless of where you sit, the casually refined Bettina is an excellent

n the other side of Coast Village Road, tucked inside the

spot to eat lunch or dinner with family and friends, or to linger over a

Montecito Country Mart, is Bettina, a cozy pizzeria that

cocktail or two with your date.

KHAO KAENG

RENAUD’S & CA’DARIO

everal other new establishments have made Montecito’s lower

lso situated in

village their home, including some second, third, and sixth

the Plaza is Santa

Barbara staple Renaud’s

Jerry Lee, and Emre Balli – the folks behind Empty Bowl in the Santa

Patisserie & Bistro, which

Barbara Public Market – have opened sister restaurant Khao Kaeng, in

offers yet another location

Renaud’s – photo by Blake Bronstadt

restaurant ventures for local restaurateurs and proprietors. Nui Pannak,

the Coast Village Plaza. Dishing up many of the same noodle offerings that Empty Bowl has become known for, Khao Kaeng – which translates to “curry on rice” – also offers an expanded menu of elevated Thai food, including, as the name implies, rice and curry.

from which to enjoy owner Renaud Gonthier’s handcrafted French pastries, decadent cakes, and elaborate fruit tarts. Breakfast is served daily,

while a bistro menu offers traditional favorites like French Onion Soup and Croque Monsieur, as well as wine and beer. Next door, Dario Khao Kaeng – photos by Silas Fallstich

Furlati of Ca’Dario will soon be revealing his sixth Italian restaurant,

Embracing the vibrant and

occupying the former space of Giovanni’s.

CAFFE LUXXE & MERCI

ack at the Montecito Country Mart, Caffe Luxxe has opened its first venture outside Los Angeles, bringing a taste of the

European café culture to Montecito by way of handcrafted artisanal

diverse flavors of Chef Nui’s homeland, dishes are crafted using organic ingredients, house-made curry pastes, and natural and free-range proteins, served alongside a thoughtfully curated selection of wines complementing the bold (and often spicy) flavors of the dishes.

52 |

Cafe Luxxe – photo by Alicia Cho

ANDRIA KAHMANN Realtor® M: 805.680.8162 Andria.Kahmann@Elliman.com DRE# 00925548

elliman.com/california

150 EL CAMINO DRIVE, BEVERLY HILLS, CA 90212. 310.595.3888 © 2019 DOUGLAS ELLIMAN REAL ESTATE. ALL MATERIAL PRESENTED HEREIN IS INTENDED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY. WHILE, THIS INFORMATION IS BELIEVED TO BE CORRECT, IT IS REPRESENTED SUBJECT TO ERRORS, OMISSIONS, CHANGES OR WITHDRAWAL WITHOUT NOTICE. ALL PROPERTY INFORMATION, INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO SQUARE FOOTAGE, ROOM COUNT, NUMBER OF BEDROOMS AND THE SCHOOL DISTRICT IN PROPERTY LISTINGS SHOULD BE VERIFIED BY YOUR OWN ATTORNEY, ARCHITECT OR ZONING EXPERT. IF YOUR PROPERTY IS CURRENTLY LISTED WITH ANOTHER REAL ESTATE BROKER, PLEASE DISREGARD THIS OFFER. IT IS NOT OUR INTENTION TO SOLICIT THE OFFERINGS OF OTHER REAL ESTATE BROKERS. WE COOPERATE WITH THEM FULLY. EQUAL HOUSING OPPORTUNITY.

CAVA

ow celebrating its 22nd year

in business, Cava Restaurant & Bar is the longest-running Merci – photos by Studio Arna

restaurant on Coast

Cava – photos by Curtis Miller

Village Road. Owned by second-generation restaurateur Carlos LópezHollis and his wife, Amanda, Cava specializes in fresh, flavorful Latin coffee and delectable treats –

and Mediterranean fare and handcrafted cocktails that celebrate the

served by a team of professionally

Mexican and Spanish heritage of the López-Hollis family. “There is an

trained baristas. Also settling into

elegant simplicity to our cuisine and we constantly strive to maintain

new digs at the Country Mart

that simplicity,” shares López-Hollis, who explains that the key to

is Merci Montecito, a boutique

Cava’s longevity has been finding the right balance of authenticity

artisanal café created by pastry

and consistency without ever feeling stale. “While we know who we

chef, Elizabeth Colling. Here, breakfast and lunch showcase a menu of organic, simple, and tasty homemade food; the desserts are, naturally, not to be missed. ••• While an ever-growing list of new places to eat are turning heads near and far, “destination dining” wouldn’t be a thing along this stretch of Montecito without recognizing the restaurants that have helped put Coast Village Road on the map.

54 |

are and always remain conscious of staying in our lane, it’s important to continually add small dashes of inspiration – a new twist on fish tacos from a jaunt down to Mexico or a cocktail we fell in love with in Seattle, for example,” he says. “The key for us has been to weave said inspiration into the fabric of what we’ve established for over two decades versus pivoting too far into the latest trend.” Staying true to Cava’s roots has remained an integral part of the restaurant’s success over the years. “There’s no denying the restaurant business is arduous; there are so many moving parts, but we have a tight-knit staff that has become a large family – many of whom have been with us for fifteen-plus years – and customers who are like family,” López-Hollis notes. glorious black and white vintage photos. Founded by Gene Montesano

LUCKY’S

(of Lucky Brand jeans fame), along with friends Jimmy Argyropoulos and Herb Simon, Lucky’s was established as a neighborhood steakhouse serving quality food, great cocktails, and a good time. Today, the

ince 2000, Lucky’s has been a go-to destination in Montecito

tradition continues, and Lucky’s regularly attracts a mixed and generally

for its prime steaks and seafood, lively bar, and elegant ambiance

well-heeled crowd looking to quaff a strong martini, indulge in a 12 oz.

inside the 1920s building, whose walls are decorated with large and

filet or simply savor a well-crafted burger.

JEANNINE’S BAKERY

VIVA OLIVA

be a popular community gathering spot along Coast Village Road.

owner Andi Newville and her two daughters, Amanda and Ellie, stock

Customers regularly line up for simple, yet delicious breakfast fare and

the shelves with a large variety of gourmet olive oils and vinegars from

baked goods, from strawberry scones to Banana Kahlua French Toast

around the world. Sourcing the highest quality oils from California,

fter establishing Jeannine’s Bakery in 1987, owner Alison Hardey opened her Montecito location in 2000, which continues to

hough established in 2010, family-owned Viva Oliva moved to its existing location along Coast Village Road in 2015, where

and Lobster Benedict. “Jeannine’s has always been about the smell of fresh coffee, quality handmade warm baked goods, and the sound of our friends getting ready to take on the day,” says Hardey, who was drawn to the area to create a “respite from the bustle of downtown Santa Barbara.”

TRE LUNE

estaurateur and entrepreneur Montesano is also responsible for bringing the charming Tre Lune (“Three moons” in Italian,

a reference to the original three partners) to Coast Village Road in 2009, which has been a regular spot for diners due to its simple yet thoughtful Italian cuisine and white tablecloth setting. In a nod to its

Greece, Italy, Spain, and France, Viva Oliva also carries imported and

brother restaurant down the road (Lucky’s), vintage black and white

locally-made products, including pesto, jams, mustards, olives, crackers

photographs of Hollywood celebrities (featuring many from... or in...

and cheeses – essentially everything needed for a well-received picnic

Italy) festoon the walls and add a flavor of elegance and nostalgia.

basket or housewarming gift.

THE HONOR BAR

OLIVER’S

and a lively scene; on a weekend, tables are hard to come by but half

stylish, sophisticated crowd looking to enjoy healthy (and tasty) plant-

the fun at The Honor Bar is people watching (if you are fortunate, by

based fare from the beautiful outdoor patio. Whether you’re vegan or

the outdoor fireplace) while waiting to be seated. The Honor Market

not, it’s hard not to appreciate the colorful food while sipping equally

next door offers espresso drinks, curated home goods, and a menu of

vibrant, albeit more boozy, concoctions of high-end spirits mixed with

artisanal pizzas available for take away.

Juice Ranch juices within the airy indoor/outdoor space.

few years later, The Honor Bar of the Hillstone group opened its doors, luring people in for massive sandwiches, quality cocktails,

56 |

n late 2017, vegan lovers rejoiced when Oliver’s opened in the former (and completely remodeled) Peabody’s space, catering to a

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R E A L E S TAT E G R O U P

MONTECITO DELI

wner Jeff Rypysc has been selling and catering his unique blend of salads, soups (Chicken Tortilla is a house

specialty), piadinas, tri-tip sandwiches, and comfort food favorites such as smoked salmon on a bagel, or Jeff’s own veggie burrito (Feta or Provolone cheese, basil, mushrooms, tomatoes, Calamata olives, sautéed peppers and onions and all topped off with three egg whites) for two decades. Tucked into a small corner at 1150 Coast Village Road, Montecito Deli is open six days a week for breakfast and lunch.

CHINA PALACE

Los Arroyos – Silas Fallstich

Patterson create gelato and sorbet fresh from farmers’ market bounties; nd, what kind of restaurant retreat could be without a

affordable and delicious smoothie shop Blenders in the Grass; Panino,

fine Chinese restaurant? China Palace, at 1070 Coast

where you can choose from an extensive menu of sandwiches and salads

Village Road is a longtime popular eat-in and takeout option

to pick up on your way to the beach; and the popular Rori’s Artisanal

that serves a comfortable selection of Chinese food such

Creamery, featuring organic ice cream that attracts kids and adults alike.

as crispy fried shrimp, barbecued baby back ribs, steamed

“Coast Village Road is among the most special streets in this entire

dumplings and the like. Our favorites: cashew chicken and

state,” López-Hollis opines. “The street has changed tremendously in the

vegetarian chow mein.

time Cava has been in existence,” he says. And, while we miss the slowpaced charm of yesteryear,” he adds, “we also fully embrace the exciting

GROWN UP, YET MAGICAL

new verve on the street.” Indeed, much has changed along Coast Village Road over the years, including a “substantial growth of business, upscale stores, and a more cosmopolitan experience,” as described by Jeannine’s

ounding out Coast Village’s dining scene is Los Arroyos, where

owner Hardey, who is quick to point out that despite the changes, this

homemade Mexican fare has been a favorite since 2004; Sakana,

area of Montecito retains an undeniable charm. “Coast Village Road has

the small-no reservation sushi eatery offering traditional and fusion-style sushi along with a wide range of Japanese sake; Little Alex’s, a family-

grown up, but it has never lost its magic.” “All of us local merchants have a strong sense of communitas and

friendly Mexican eatery that just celebrated 30 years in business; the

it obviously continues to be reinforced by last year’s catastrophe,” adds

quaint Bree’osh, where pastries bring a taste of Paris to the California

López-Hollis. “We are entering an exciting new chapter here on Coast

coast; Juice Ranch, the fourth organic juicery for owners Scott Walker

Village Road. I love the direction and am eager to continue to be a part

and Erin Gomez; Here’s the Scoop, where owners Bob and Ellie

of this vibrant community.”

58 |

M E R C I M O N T E C I T O artisanal cafe serving delicious organic homemade food breakfast, lunch and desserts eat in or take on the go

Montecito Country Mart 1028 Coast Village Road | Montecito CA | 93108 follow us @mercimontecito

THE WAY IT WAS T H E D O U LTO N M I R A M A R

A sunny day at the Miramar circa 1920 (Courtesy Montecito Association History Committee)

60 |

BY HATTIE BERESFORD

he first inkling that Emmeline and Josiah Doulton’s Miramar-by-the Sea resort was fast becoming a successful enterprise was a brief

notice in a July 1892 edition of the Daily Independent, which noted, almost in surprise, “Miramar is getting to be quite a famed summer resort. About 40 or more persons are guests of that popular place.” By September, the paper was able to report, “Miramar has been the scene of fashion and life this summer. Equal were the number of belles and their votaries, and many were the romantic strolls on the winding beach of that Garden of Eden.” Small wonder that the newspapers had started taking an interest, for Miramar’s shingled and clapboard cottages – shaded by trees and embowered in roses – welcomed guests from far and near with open heart and homespun entertainment. A merry atmosphere of music, song, dance, games, and impromptu beach parties with driftwood fires and corn roasts occupied guests, who often spent the entire season. For a time, the Doultons’ daughter Ethel organized a dramatic troupe made up of younger guests and friends and presented rousing performances at Montecito Hall. There were also

Emmeline and Josiah Doulton created Miramar-by-the-Sea (Courtesy MAHiC and Peter Stott)

riding parties, excursions to the islands, tennis, 10-cent train rides to town, sailboat races, and, of course, swimming and sunbathing. At night, the music of the quiet sea upon the beach sang the cottagers to sleep, and when the day came to depart, they were showered with pink geranium blossoms. It’s difficult to believe this idyllic sanctuary was founded almost by accident. Josiah Doulton, native of England and son of John Doulton, founder of the pottery business that would become Royal Doulton China, had come to Santa Barbara via England, Australia, and North Carolina. The family hoped to find a more healthful climate for Josiah

Harold (Harry) Josiah Doulton, undeterred by his adventures with the Dashaway, steers another of the Doulton yachts in the 1920s (Courtesy Montecito Association History Committee)

and were drawn to Santa Barbara because of its hot springs and its reputation as a health resort. Arriving circa 1874, Josiah was soon involved in the musical life

on the farm he had purchased from Sara Stanton in Montecito. Together with his sons, he set about raising rutabaga, barley, corn,

of Santa Barbara. He sang solo and as part of a quartet for a concert

beans, and fruit. Home life out in the hinterland of Montecito

at the public library’s soirée, which also included an exhibition of

included entertaining neighbors and friends with evenings of music

Henry Chapman Ford’s oil sketches of local scenery and Hayward

and conversation, sometimes unintentionally. A December 1880

and Muzzall’s photographs of Yosemite and Santa Barbara. He was a

“News from Montecito” column in the Morning Press reported, “Last

founding member of the Philharmonic Society, a choral group, and

evening we had a great treat of music. We supposed Messrs. Harold

he sang in a concert on the three-year-old Lobero stage in 1876. The

and Bertram Doulton were practicing on their clarinets. As there was

Daily Press reported that he had a full, rich, deep-toned bass voice and

a gentle breeze coming up from the ocean, it carried the music along

had admirably rendered the opening solo.

up to the foothills and through the valley, to our ears. There is nothing

In April of 1876, Josiah and his wife Emmeline and their children moved from a rented house on Carrillo Street to the simple house

sweeter than such music, at night. We enjoyed it exceedingly, and call loudly for an encore.” Josiah and a friend, Orran Neal, also built a yacht, which the

The simple Doulton farm was quickly becoming a resort by 1890. The photo shows the original farm house and one of the first cottages. (Photo courtesy of Santa Barbara Historical Museum)

62 |

neighbors helped launch, and in which he hoped to make trips to the islands. The shallow bay of the farm, however, was not protection

THE WAY IT WAS

Sierra Vista Cottage is embowered with roses circa 1900 (Courtesy Santa Barbara Historical Museum)

enough for the Dashaway, which took its name seriously during a

through his property, thereby dividing his fields, had insisted that the

November storm and broke loose from its moorings. Spotting the

rail line run along the bluff on non-arable lands. It was a decision he,

escapee, Orran, Josiah, and Josiah’s son Harry took a small boat and

and we, would come to regret. Nevertheless, as reported in Emmeline’s

went after her. The Morning Press reported, “The sea ran so high as to

Memoriam years later, those who came were surprised that the joy,

make it dangerous for them, but they succeeded at length in getting

comfort, and contenting beauty and repose of Miramar was somehow

aboard the large boat and beaching her at Carpinteria. The men were

not marred by the frequent dash of heavy railway traffic through the

all drenched to the skin with sea water and had a very disagreeable

grounds and called these amenities the work of real and rare genius.

tramp home after dark.”

Becoming a Resort

It was also in 1887 that a friend of Emmeline’s had begged to spend the summer with them, and Emmeline had reluctantly agreed. At that time, there was only the old red farm house, but the summer

t soon became apparent that rutabaga and barley were not going

must have been a success, for the germ of an idea grew, and in 1889

to provide a reliable income. And even though he won “Best

the first separate cottage was built of shakes and cloth and space

Pen of Eight Pigs over Eight Weeks Old” at the County Fair, Josiah

was allotted for tent camping. Soon, other cottages were built, and

decided to open an insurance and real estate business, joining up

the main house, which also leased rooms, grew and grew again, as

with different partners over the years. As Desmond and Doulton,

it sheathed its red-painted tongue-and-groove simple façade with

they were the sole agents for 62 acres of Montecito lands that

shingles, added arched porticos, and sprouted a glass tea room.

included sulphur springs. Also in 1880, he passed an examination

Later still, a large separate dining room and kitchen was built,

to become a court reporter by proving his ability to write over 160

and the Doultons instituted boat service to Santa Barbara six times a

words a minute. Finally, a steady income.

day. Then came a tennis court, a livery stable, and servants’ quarters

In 1887, the rail line from Los Angeles arrived in Santa Barbara.

and more cottages. In those early halcyon days, guests gathered in the

Josiah, having objected when the County put the County Road right

old drawing room for an evening of music, pleasant conversation, and

THE WAY IT WAS games. They were entranced when Josiah Doulton read aloud or recited stories with that marvelous voice of his. In 1892, the Miramar held its own Independence Day Parade attended by guests of the hotel, neighbors, and many people from town. The procession, which included a lemonade wagon, marched along the Miramar “streets” of Stable Avenue, Green Corn Street, Tank Place, and Woodpecker Hill to Tennis Square where Josiah gave the oration in his rich basso voice, and music and song filled the day. That evening, Master of Pyrotechny Leslie Doulton provided fireworks for spectators assembled at the pavilion overlooking the beach. It was all topped off by a grand ball and collation, and

View circa 1895 toward what would become Edgecliffe Beach Club on the point (Courtesy Santa Barbara Historical Museum)

a grand time was had by all. When the farm progressed from family home to resort, Emmeline had searched for a name for their business. An early guest suggested the name “Miramar,” which means “Behold the Sea,” and so it was, and so it still is. Lauded for her hospitality and her character, which was best described as “wise, sane, and generous,” Emmeline was also responsible for the great beauty of the grounds, the sweeping lawns and flower borders, and the specimen trees that included an English oak. Many believed the attractive landscaping of the Miramar inspired the establishment of the neighborhood of charming cottages and houses that grew around it. In fact, Josiah Doulton became the sole agent for these homes and lots in 1893. Other evidence of the Miramar’s popularity was a whistle stop train station that the

The old farmhouse was looking quite elegant circa 1910 and enjoyed a loyal and notable patronage every summer (Courtesy Santa Barbara Historical Museum.)

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All Saints-by-the-Sea Episcopal Church opened its doors for the first time for the wedding of Ethel Doulton to Louis Stott in November of 1900. The Doultons had donated the land and supported the establishment of the church. (Courtesy Montecito History Committee)

THE WAY IT WAS Southern Pacific Railroad had placed on the grounds in 1892. In the early 1890s, pastors from Trinity Church in Santa Barbara traveled to Miramar-by-the Sea to hold Episcopal services for its guests and Montecito residents so they wouldn’t have to make the 90-minute buggy ride to town and back. In 1896, hoping to establish its own Episcopal church in Montecito, the congregation that met at the Miramar asked for and was granted a charter for such a church. In 1898, a temporary chapel was built on the Miramar property while funds were secured to raise the roof of the church and manse. Emmeline hosted beach teas in its cause, and Ethel’s troupe of players gave benefit performances. Soon, a beautiful stone church arose, and on November 28, 1900, All Saints-by-the-Sea opened its doors for the first time for the wedding of Ethel Doulton to Louis Stott of New York.

Trials and Tribulations

ife at Miramar was not always easy. Besides the low prices for farm produce and the Dashaway’s early run for freedom,

Harry and son Robert investigate the oil derricks at Summerland (Courtesy Montecito Association History Committee)

was naturally resented, and will be in much more effective manner if repeated as they are well known.” In 1899, another threat to Miramar emerged. This time in the form of an oil derrick erected on a stretch of beach below the Fernald

when the farm became a hostelry another set of problems arose.

place, which lay due east. In fact, out-of-town oilmen were scouring

In 1890, Josiah wrote a letter to the editor complaining of wild

the area due to the success of oil drilling at Summerland. Dozens of

shooting on the beach. One shot wounded one of his horses and

claims were filed, and locals sat up and took notice. They did not

another landed close to him while he was sitting on the veranda.

want their beautiful beaches to become besmirched with oily tar and

In a letter to the Morning Press, he wrote, “As the law gives me

inhabited by ungainly triangular towers. In the end, an early “Monkey

no redress, what am I to do? I feel strongly inclined to fortify my

Wrench Gang” dismantled the unwelcome derrick in the dark of night

place by a Gatling gun on the bank because I have precious lives to

and neatly laid its parts next to the railroad tracks. Hannah Fernald,

protect, both biped and quadruped.” He closed with the statement

widow of pioneer Judge Charles Fernald, stationed a watchman with a

that he was giving those responsible fair warning and that he would

rifle on the banks of her property should the oil speculators attempt to

not “mince matters” should there be any more shooting on the

resurrect the derrick.

beach in front of his house. Josiah’s threat served to quell the shooting for a time, but in 1893,

Some trials were rather amusing as the press reported in 1893. “A tramp with cheek that should secure him a place in the precinct of our

the press again reported shooting on the beach: “Four ‘sports’ from

county jail called at Miramar yesterday morning and asked for breakfast,

this city amused themselves Friday afternoon rifle shooting at the buoy

insisting on steak well done, coffee and eggs, remarking that he had

attached to the moorings opposite Miramar. As these mooring have

been to breakfast but it was his ‘custom’ to eat two and often four

been laid down at considerable expense, the conduct of the ‘sports’

breakfasts.” The reporter did not reveal whether he was actually served.

THE WAY IT WAS

Emmeline employed Wah and Han, seen here on the veranda, to cook for her guests in the ever-expanding dining room (Courtesy Montecito Association History Committee)

View of the dining room addition and first tennis court on the right, circa 1900 (Courtesy Montecito Association History Committee)

The Miramar dining room continued to expand over the years. Note the scrolled rafters, which are reminiscent of the beautiful rafters at All Saints-bythe-Sea Episcopal Church. (Courtesy Santa Barbara Historical Museum)

66 |

THE WAY IT WAS

Continued Growth

Angeles. By July, the Morning Press was able to report, “The Miramar

osiah died in 1903 at age 70, and Emmeline and her family

is a hotbed of racket experts.” The Southern Pacific helped out by

continued the business. In 1905, they began selling interests in the

dropping its rates from 10 cents a trip from Santa Barbara to 9 cents.

hotel and hired a new manager, C.E. Linzee. With the infusion of new

And for those wishing for excursions into the mountains, they could be

money and new ideas, the Miramar embarked on a revitalized era of

taken to spend the night at Cold Spring Tavern, which the Doultons

growth. In 1906, Linzee was able to report that the cottage hotel could

had recently acquired.

now serve 110 guests in 12 cottages owned by the hotel and another

Jessie Porter Whittaker, a summer visitor in 1906, described her

12 leased to add to the available rooms. These cottages were scattered

sojourn at the Miramar for her hometown newspaper, the Watertown

from Eucalyptus Lane nearly to Ortega Hill, and in inclement weather,

Times in New York.

guests were brought to the dining room in closed carriages. Two local

“An ornate cottage faces the sea, with open, central court,” she

trains stopped at the hotel each day when the whistle stop station

wrote, “and pillared veranda in which swings a sign-board with rustic

became an official train depot.

lettering – TAK IT IZI –, a motto which is faithfully followed by

Jessie Porter Whittaker talked about Tak It Izi in an article for her hometown paper in 1906 (Courtesy Montecito Association History Committee)

Interior of a bungalow cottage in 1918 (Courtesy Montecito Association History Committee)

In 1906, a 500-foot pleasure pier was erected, which a few years

most of the dwellers here. We sit around on the cool piazza or under

later would be extended to 1,000 feet. Linzee said the pier was for

the shade of the great trees and watch the tennis players work; go to

the convenience of those wishing to take boat rides and as a landing

the cliff and laugh at the bathers fighting the billows of cold ocean,

for power launches. Bridge and Whist tournaments were organized

or swing on a hammock under the pines and breathe the spicy odors

for the guests, and an additional tennis court was added south of the

while gazing with dreamy eyes at the purple mountain tops…

tracks so the Miramar could host tennis tournaments. In June, Ronald

“The chief interest in bird life here centers in the seabirds. A

Doulton beat Harold Doulton, 6-4; 7-5. At the second tournament of

graceful flock of curlews, in compact flight, circles over the water,

the season, Sherman Day Thacher, founder and principal of Thacher

lighting where – through our glass — we can see them stalk on long

School in Nordhoff (Ojai) took second place to a player from Los

legs at the water’s edge and probe the wet sand with their sickle shaped

THE WAY IT WAS bills. Sandpipers and sanderlings too find a lunch counter on this

A brilliant idea, indeed. They somehow managed to beach

beach. The former are aptly described by their common names of

the rotting corpse, as the reporter said, “within wafting distance of

“tweeters” or “tip-ups” while the sanderlings – running swiftly, with

Miramar and Montecito.” It took the Herculean efforts of captains

a movement like that of mechanical toys on the sidewalk – play their

McGuire and Vasques, a motley crew of sailors, and a midnight high

game of tag with the surf…

tide before the great stinking leviathan was removed from the beach

“We have the most unique poultry yard imaginable. Daily, when

and set adrift again.

the refuse from the hotel is dumped on the sand below the high water line, there gathers a motley crowd – hens and seagulls, pigeons and turkey vultures, all feeding together. The hens and pigeons flee from the in-coming tide but the gulls do not mind a foot bath.” There was something for everyone to enjoy at Miramar, and while Jessie enjoyed her repose, two young lads enjoyed their adventure with a whale. A 1907 Morning Press headline reports, WHALE A GUEST AT MIRAMAR. “Early yesterday morning,” the reporter wrote, “two lads, Earl Miller, who is staying with his parents at Miramar, and a stable lad rejoicing in the name of Johnnie, sighted a whale floating high out of the water near the Miramar pleasure wharf. They each secured a small punt and rowed out to the floating mass, uncertain whether life was extinct or not. Doubt on this head was dispelled by the evidence of their olfactory organs when they got within a hundred yards. Nothing daunted, the boys conceived the brilliant idea of towing the monster ashore.”

Miramar guests watch a moon boat flotilla from its pleasure pier circa 1920 (Courtesy Montecito Association History Committee)

68 |

The train made two stops a day at the Miramar Depot and charged 10 cents for a ride from Santa Barbara (Courtesy Santa Barbara Historical Museum)

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THE WAY IT WAS

A New Doulton Era

n 1910, Emmeline Doulton passed away and her son, Harold Josiah (Harry) Doulton, took over management of Miramar Enterprises. Harry

was very involved in area civic life and in 1906 was elected to the Santa Barbara County Board of Supervisors. He was instrumental in developing plans for the Santa Barbara breakwater, a project that would come to haunt the Doulton family. Harry also served on the Board of the Montecito Water District, becoming its president and being instrumental in the development of Juncal

Arthur Ogilvy (far right) and friends take in the sun and surf at the Miramar circa 1920. Note that the men wore tank tops to modestly cover their chests. (Courtesy Santa Barbara Historical Museum)

Dam and the Toro Canyon tunnel, which, completed shortly after his death, was named in his honor. Shortly after Harry took control of the Miramar, he became annoyed by the rising cost of electricity, so he installed an independent, private electrical plant, which, he claimed, could provide all the electricity he needed at 1/10th the cost. He also brought the popular bandleader, Cesar La Monaco, to play concerts at Miramar once a month. The terrible flooding of 1914 destroyed bridges and houses on Valley Road in Spanish Town. James Waldron Gillespie’s Greek temple, which sat on Montecito Creek, was swept away. (In 2018, the replacement bridges and temple were destroyed again by the terrifying debris flow.) Miramar lost one cottage and two others were twisted about on their foundations, but the main buildings withstood the 1914 attack and were back in shape by 1917 when silent film star Gail Kane, the American Film Company’s latest acquisition, started work on Whose Wife? Several of the scenes were filmed at the Miramar.

Marian Campbell (left) and Gladys Ogilvy (later Spaulding) sport the very latest in swimwear at the Miramar circa 1920 (Courtesy Santa Barbara Historical Museum)

The “Daily Round of Society” column in the Morning Press began keeping the town informed of the comings and goings at Miramar. Summer residents came from all walks of life and from all parts of the nation. To name a very few: Angelica (Brown) and Peter Cooper Bryce, who later built the George Washington Smith-designed Florestal in Hope Ranch; Arthur and Grace Murray Meeker and family, who hired Ambrose Cramer to design Constantia in Montecito and found that Cramer also had design on their daughters and was to marry two of them; King Gillette and family, businessman and inventor of the most popular version of the safety razor; and Theodore Roosevelt, Jr., who told the Santa Barbara paparazzi that he

70 |

The Miramar was the center for all sorts of water sports (Courtesy Santa Barbara Historical Museum)

hadn’t done anything to deserve all the attention they were

THE WAY IT WAS

bestowing upon him. Probably one of the most famous visitors to the Miramar was King Albert of Belgium in October 1919. During his short sojourn at Casa Dorinda, he began each day with a swim at Miramar beach. All through the 1920s, Miramar remained a favorite place for locals and visitors alike. Society columnist Jessie Mary Bryant wrote, “To see Miramar in its gayest summer guise, one must visit it at midday – any day will do. The winding drive through the garden will be found full of motor cars, whose Montecito and Santa Barbara owners are enjoying their diurnal dip in the surf.” The Roaring Twenties ended abruptly with the failure of the stock market, and the expansive sands of Miramar Beach ended abruptly with the completion of the Santa Barbara breakwater, both in 1929. The breakwater changed the littoral drift and stripped the southern beaches of their sand. Neither was good for business. After limping along through the great Depression, Harry’s son, Harold Stevens Doulton, was forced to sell the property in 1937, thus ending the first era of Miramar-by-the-Sea.

(Sources: I Remember by Harold Keeney Doulton; contemporary news articles; articles by Stella Haverland Rouse and Walker Tompkins; article by Lyman Abbot in The Outlook; files of the Montecito Association History Committee and the Gledhill Library at the Santa Barbara Historical Museum.)

One guest wrote, “This don’t look so fashionable does it? But it certainly is. That Teddie Junior cottage is $95.00 a week for two including board. Isn’t it awful!” (Courtesy Santa Barbara Historical Museum)

“...many were the romantic strolls on the winding beach of that Garden of Eden.” Morning Press 1892. (Courtesy Montecito Association History Committee)

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M O N T EC I TO WINEMAKERS B R YA N A N D L I S A B A B C O C K

(photo by Valentina Glidden) 76 |

B Y E VA VA N P R O OY E N

ituated on the western side of the Santa Ynez Valley, just nine

into the trash, and he felt it best to “check out the wine thing with mom

miles past Buellton and tucked off Highway 246 down a long

and dad.” As a result, he pursued majors in biology and chemistry from

drive, is Babcock Vineyards. Established in 1978, Mona and

Occidental College and applied to UC Davis to start a master’s degree

Walter Babcock purchased the 110-acre property, planted 20 acres

in enology.

of grapes including Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay, and

After spending two years on course work, Bryan says he was

yielded a first vintage in 1983.

supposed to return to Davis to put together a thesis for his degree in

In 1982 their son, Bryan, was having trouble getting accepted into the business schools of his choice. Bryan reports Harvard, Stanford, and Wharton had seemingly tossed his “modest undergraduate credentials”

the fall of 1984. “I started crushing Gewürztraminer that September and forgot about school altogether,” he admits. His studies clearly primed him for his first harvest, as he was awarded

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gold medals at the Los Angeles and Orange County fairs for his 1984

kids (Chloe age 17 and a senior in high school and Sean age 21 currently

Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc. Bryan notes one of his more memorable

at UCLA) went to Montecito Union. We are fulltime residents of

early career moments was being invited to lecture the business students at

Montecito, and I commute most every day, and during harvest I’m [in

Wharton a few years later on the “ins and outs of the wine industry.”

the Santa Ynez Valley] every day,” says Bryan. Bryan recalls the first house they moved to in Montecito was a

LANDING IN MONTECITO

“Mediterranean charming house” and then ten years ago they found another charming Mediterranean house, this time with a pool, right down the street and perfect for their kids at the time. “We basically

ryan grew up in Southern California in the Seal Beach area, and

moved down the street and Lisa turned that house into a really

met his wife, Lisa, when they were attending Occidental College.

spectacular short-term rental.” They call it Babcock Vintner’s House &

They married in 1992. Lisa was born in Redondo Beach; her father flew commercial planes as a flight engineer, which took the family around

Guest Cottage and it is available as a vacation rental. Babcock wines are found in all Montecito wine stores and on most

the world, and she ultimately came back to the States to finish out high

restaurant wine lists. “We are super well supported in Montecito. We

school in Washington.

tend to bounce around and eat at a lot of different places. We are really

“Lisa and I first moved to Montecito from San Roque over fifteen

to Pane e Vino or west two minutes to Tre Lune. We love what they did

(photo by Valentina Glidden)

years ago and at this point we kind of feel like we’re locals. Both of our

blessed in Montecito – if we want Italian we either go north two minutes

78 |

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WINEMAKERS

at the Miramar, and I just put a private label together with San Ysidro

collection of vinyl records, and an eye-widening assortment of mostly

Ranch. The sommelier came up to the winery, picked his favorite Pinot

vintage finds.

Noir, and we put a private label on it,” says Bryan, who also notes he and Lisa recently celebrated their wedding anniversary there. Lisa had a career in the fashion industry for more than 30 years. When asked about her role in the winery, she explains, “Among many

The original tasting room, just a few steps across the courtyard, is a mid-century modern “unique sipping lounge,” often dubbed a rock-nroll retro fantasyland, and formally named Soulstruck Lounge. “These are all found objects,” says Lisa, adding, “I really like that

other things, I’m the quirky mind behind the labels, the furnishings, and

feeling of reusing and repurposing, so almost everything you see here

tchotchke-laden landscape of Babcock Winery. Both of my parents

had a former life which is kind of fun. I think it helps to bring a good

were spirited, adventurous, and open minded. I grew up traveling the

energy to the space.”

world with them, and have grown to love open markets and the search

Lisa adds, “I wanted the space to feel really casual and open

for one of a kind items that inspire.”

to anyone and everyone to gather, connect, and relax. You can get

SOULSTRUCK VINTAGE

hundreds of people in here and it still works.” Quirky, colorful, and

“T

he big picture here,” says Lisa, motioning to their massive 5,000 sq ft high ceiling open floor plan barn-like tasting room

personal, “this is an eclectic array of vintage items to serve as a backdrop for my husband’s incredible wine.” Bryan says the change in the tasting room environment and

in an interview at Babcock Winery & Vineyards, “is that eight years ago

atmosphere was commensurate with the fact that at that point he was

we converted this from a production warehouse into our new tasting

making about 25,000 cases of wine and distribution had become “no

room. I decided to clear out this big warehouse for a party, and in doing

fun,” so he decided to cut production in half and, “focus on better wine.”

so saw this space could be cleared permanently.”

(Babcock currently produces roughly 12,000 cases each year.)

The new tasting room is organized into a variety of sitting area

“I’ve got some new ideas in farming and the development of

vignettes with “something for everyone” – spanning an array of items

Agristhetics,” says Bryan, explaining Agristhetics is a term he coined

to “amuse, entertain, and stimulate curiosity” including everything

– the concept, definition, and philosophy he’s given it thus far is, “the

from small books, cards, and candles, to signs, furniture, an impressive

treatment of an agricultural domain as a piece of art. I’ve been inspired

80 |

WINEMAKERS

by everything in this room, and once I immersed myself in its mojo for a few years, I started thinking, why can’t I do this on one hundred acres? Why not get the whole thing to be like this?”

GOING NATURAL

long with this evolution, Babcock has a new label. “We are going to start doing some Pét-Nat wines. It is the méthode

ancestral, where you have a wine and you bottle it just a little bit before fermentation is finished. Fermentation then finishes in the bottle and you cap it. It’s kind of the crude street version of Champagne,” says Bryan, explaining it is most likely the first way anyone made sparkling wine, probably by accident. “Stick a cork in it a little bit too soon and

(photo by Charles Fritzen)

the next thing you know you got bubbles. It’s fun, you don’t have to add any SO2, there’s no preservatives, so the wine is a little hazy and funky

most fine wine growers worldwide do. I did VSP for the better part of 25

which totally fits into what’s happening right now in this whole natural

years myself until I had my epiphany and started to think about ways to

wine movement.” Bryan reports they are also making rosé and the new

more or less work with gravity opposed to against gravity. You do VSP for

brand name is Love Garden. “In two words, Lisa has captured what this

25 years and you start to forget what a naturally growing vine looks like.”

atmosphere is really all about – it’s a big barn full of friends.” Bryan explains their branding is now built around different labels in addition to Babcock including Bright Fortune, Rita’s Earth, “a less expensive Pinot Noir – my daughter drew a beautiful pencil rose for us

Bryan reports ten years ago he spent hours simply standing in his vineyard looking at a grapevine to specifically explore what vitis (grapevines) would do naturally. He was looking at the vines for “its nature.” He explains VSP is a rigid system where you take vitis, which

for this label.” Bryan’s old FATHOM label has made a return, too – it

wants to grow in a fluid organic loose gently outward direction and you

was originally “a Bordeaux varieties blending program from our original

redirect it up into a wire trellis, which is expensive and forces the vine to

observations of Cabernet Franc that is back with some new mojo.”

do what it would not otherwise do naturally. “So, I moved my platform up. The starting point for all the growth is now up at about eye level. I

NATURE AND AGRISTHETICS

decided to start up higher and see if we could discover opportunities where just letting vitis be vitis actually gives us some advantages in terms of wine quality and certainly farming cost.”

ut in the vineyard, Bryan says, two things are going on with the

When asked if this farming technique is unique to him, Bryan says,

new farming: Agristhetics and Integrated Nature, which at this

“What this is, is a radicalization of the integration of vitis with the forces

point, is the name of his entire approach. “Basically what I’ve done is to

of nature that are in play – namely gravity, wind, wind direction, sun, sun

move away from Vertical Shoot Positioning (VSP), which is what you see

position vis-à-vis time of the growing season, and the average height

WINEMAKERS

of a human being. I don’t know anybody doing this. Nobody does this: Integrated Nature and Agristhetics. We’ve been farming this way now for five years.” Bryan continues to explain the idea of letting a grapevine start naturally and just grow is primitive, but he’s doing it in a way to take advantage of the nature of a grapevine and then position it in such a way to maximize what it can do naturally. “The really crazy thing that just hit me like a ton of bricks is in how lucky I am is, in my case, the wind runs the same direction as the

(photo by Donny Heddon)

sun which is huge because it creates an [even canopy dispersal] in September and October. “Because things are relatively loose, what is really nice is the breeze starts to push things around and the vines start to undulate and we call it ‘the dance.’ This is really good as far as allowing sun and air to penetrate deeper into the core of the canopy, which helps to mitigate mildew in the early part of the season when we do canopy work. And if we do canopy work… it’s all right here at eye-level. I’ll never farm down there again,” he says, motioning lower to the ground. “There’s a bigger fruiting zone because there is more room, and we can create more individual cluster architecture – free-floating ripening clusters – and if you have a natural canopy you can reach through at an [easy angle] knowing where the sun is going to be in August and September and pluck out leaves as the sun arcs across the side of the canopy. If you want fifty percent direct sun on your Pinot Noir – which is where my gut tells me it should be – then you can do it. With VSP the only thing typically between the cluster and the sun on an east-west row is one leaf – take it away and you have one hundred percent sun. Leave it on and you have one hundred percent shade. If you just let vitis grow, it will set you up.” With this farming innovation, there is natural frost protection as shoots are higher off the ground, which also mitigates negative effects of humidity. One aspect of mechanization Bryan says he is big on is mechanical harvesting, and because there is no pulling wires apart like

82 |

(photo by Donny Heddon)

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with VSP, which is essentially glued together with wire, pruning goes quickly. During harvest, “we now go twice as fast down the line and we’re twice as gentle.” Driving through the 100-acre vineyard, Bryan explains that at one point he was farming 80 acres, but due to Pierce’s Disease, a bacteria that prevents water being drawn up into the vines, he now has 25 acres planted and is hesitant to plant more until there is a clear remedy. The bacteria tend to survive through the warmer winter due to the proximity of the ocean.

A FOREST IN THE VALLEY

topping at the top of the vineyard’s long entryway and gesturing to a large cluster of 15-year-old oak trees, Bryan

states, “What I want is what you feel here with these trees. The idea is to create a periphery of forest around the property that you could

I’m looking for in a flower species: it is robust, they like it here, and of

hike through, walk through [with story signage along the way], and

course they attract butterflies. This has been blooming for a year – it

picnic tables up top where people can take a bottle of wine for lunch

never stopped. I call it the Terminator of flowers. It’s invincible.”

and enjoy the views. I have about 1,000 oaks in the nursery. My

Bryan looks forward to the day the oak trees look more mature

dream is to re-engineer the deer fence so the deer will come down

and says Agristhetics probably won’t be finished in his lifetime but

from the habitat into the forest so as to invite wildlife.” He adds,

“to get two hundred-year-old trees, you gotta start somewhere.”

“with a sign that says ‘Attention: You’re Now Entering a Wildlife

Continuing along, he notes an east-facing hillside will someday be

Zone. Please Close the Gate Behind You.’”

home to a meandering trail through a solid forest of trees spreading

Bryan describes his vision where the parking lot will be more of

out as it takes guests up to the top of the property. He is even playing

a forest and on a hot day you can park your car under a big, mature

with the idea of planting an English variety of oak that under the right

oak tree. In addition to the idea of a dense oak forest, he reports he’s

conditions will produce truffles and envisions a sign saying, “You Are

been researching flowers and milkweed to design butterfly sanctuaries

Now Entering A Truffle Forest.”

among the natural fields to create acres of color. Last year he looked

“Someday we’ll mix in some sheep or goats; it would be fun and

at three species of milkweed favoring a robust butterfly-loving Narrow

really cool to make some cheese. I’m toying with the idea of planting

Leaf Milkweed. Stopping at a “laboratory” on a hillside, Bryan reveals

cactus for the production of a beverage called Pulque. Agave makes

a surprisingly vibrant fragrant purple mass of Cedros Island verbena.

the spirit tequila and mezcal. There are other species of cactus where

“This is the star of the show,” he explains, adding, “This is exactly what

when the plant is mature it puts out a big flower stock – you cut off

84 |

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the main trunk and you scoop it out to create a bowl and the sap –

matter where you are it’s beautiful, and you start to have this feeling like

called aguamiel – oozes into the bowl and you ladle it out every day. It

when you’re experiencing art. Your senses are bombarded hopefully in

has an alcohol content of six or seven percent and is more like a beer,”

a good way and that you just have this really good feeling about life in

says Bryan, laughing as he tries to figure out the costs and time on a

general and that’s really the goal.”

project like that. On the one hand, Pierce’s Disease has been a nightmare. But as

Bryan was named as one of the “Top Ten Small Production Winemakers in the World” in 1995 by the James Beard Foundation

Bryan says, “I don’t know if it’s a blessing in disguise, but if there was

(the only American chosen) as well as both one of the “Ten Best

ever a time for me to feel like maybe I shouldn’t go run out and plant

Winemakers of the Year” and “Most Courageous Winemaker of

more grapes – if I know now as a business target I can make this place

the Year” by the Los Angeles Times. Babcock Winery & Vineyards

as beautiful as it could be, as fast as I can do it, I’ll be busy.

is located at 5175 East Highway 246. The tasting room is open

“The whole thing is just really fun. I don’t hold that when it’s all said

daily from 11 am to 5:30 pm. Some of Babcock wines are at the

and done the agricultural domain will be a piece of art. The challenge

Santa Barbara Wine Collective in the Funk Zone in Santa Barbara

for me is in designing something where we can weave the man-made

at 131 Anacapa Street, Suite C. For more information visit www.

– the industrial, the vineyard, the trellising – with the natural, so that no

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(photo by Valentina Glidden)

86 |

Being a guest on a water craft – whether it’s a 700-passenger ocean liner, a 150-person-capacity riverboat, or a 3-guestcabin luxury barge – means you bring your “hotel” along with you to every city, town, port, and village you visit

90 |

EURO LOG 2019 BY JAMES BUCKLEY

EUROPE ON THE WATER

he heart and soul of any country can be found in its smaller towns and villages and in the people who inhabit them. Heartland residents grow the grapes; produce the wine; tend the goats, sheep, cows, and chickens; make the cheese; harvest the apples to

distill the Calvados, and do the farming. They rise at 3 am to bake the breads, croissants, and éclairs that make – in this case – France such a delightful place to both live and visit. My wife is French and we’ve made many trips to France over the years, and I for one never tire of either revisiting hallowed sites such as the World War II landing beaches of Normandy, or exploring new areas where we’ve never been. As a car-renting, car-driving tourist, and with the magic of GPS, it has become easy to drive down even one-lane roads to reach that evasive and secluded VRBO (Vacation Rental by Owner) we’ve booked online.

EUROLOG 2019 However, getting into and out of the bigger cities has become...

easily take you to many places along these waterways; places where

let’s just say “more difficult.” Way more difficult. In reaction, the

cars are no longer feasible. Driving into Marseille, Barcelona, Rome,

last few times we’ve gone to France, for example, we avoided Paris

or Venice is... hellish, but coming in by cruise ship, riverboat, or

completely. Instead, we jumped into our Hertz rental at Charles de

barge, makes life simple.

Gaulle and headed for the countryside, never even passing through the City of Light.

And so, in the cause of research and making life simpler, I spent three and a half months in Europe last year (2018) and, yes, rented

Our itinerary hewed close to what was originally planned, but avoiding a once-in-a-decade Mediterranean storm called for a few changes; keeping up with your golf game (right) is just another aspect of a top-of-the-line sea cruise

But, Paris, along with London, Berlin, Frankfurt, Amsterdam, and

a car, on two different occasions. Upon landing, I hopped into my

Copenhagen, do have their charms and, frankly, a visit to any country

mini Mercedes SUV at Charles de Gaulle and headed directly to

without paying homage to its big cities and capitals is almost criminal.

St. Malo, in Brittany, where I had signed on to a three-week French

There is another way – other than by car – to peruse a country’s

language course with Alliance Française. Twenty-seven days later, after

rural areas and small towns, and take in its metropolitan areas at the

semi-successfully boning up on the language and driving my fellow

same time. It’s an alternative that has become the option of choice

schoolmates to remote villages in Brittany during the three-week

for more people every year: a cruise. Waterways have been important

course, I drove down to Nice where I picked up my wife at the airport,

traffic routes in most of Europe for centuries. A country’s canals

dropped the car off, and two days later boarded the Regent Seven Seas

and rivers connect the smallest of villages mostly for reasons of

Voyager in Monte Carlo, Monaco, for the first of three planned cruises

commerce. Be it by barge, ocean liner, or riverboat, various watercraft

on the waterways of Europe.

92 |

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EUROLOG 2019

FROM MONACO TO VENICE

ur twelve-day itinerary on board the Voyager was to take us from Monaco to Marseille (France), Palma de Mallorca and

front door from the outside patio. The ship’s passageways are a generous six feet wide. The observation deck, all the way forward, has a plethora of

Barcelona (Spain), on to Civitavecchia, Sorrento, and Taormina (Italy,

view windows on three sides, with upholstered chairs, couches,

Sicily), then Corfu (Greece), Kotor (Montenegro), Split (Croatia), and

and divans. It’s not only where we sit as we enter various ports of

Koper (Slovenia), before disembarking in Venice, Italy.

call (particularly the spectacular mountainous inlet at Kotor in

The Regent Seven Seas Voyager is a small ship as cruise ships go,

Montenegro), it is also where the daily trivia games are held and

with a capacity of 700 or so and perhaps 350 cabins: all with outside

where we enjoy a margarita (on the rocks, with salt) or glass of

patios. Our cabin suite (all accommodations are suites) is the smallest

Chardonnay. Nearby is the working bar, a grand piano, and a dance

offered, but still a roomy and comfortable 356 sq ft (Master Suites go

floor. Service is speedy. You’ll never sit for more than a minute before

up to 1,400 sq ft). The bathroom features marble counters and comes

someone asks if you’d like something. One deck above – the top deck

complete with both a tub and a good-sized shower; the spacious

– contains two putting greens, a golf “driving range,” a shuffleboard

walk-in closet, king-sized bed, LED Samsung wall TV, and outdoor

court, and croquet field. The jogging track is a 1/12th of a mile

patio make our suite a comfortable home base. In our “living room,”

circuit.

there is an entire wall of electric outlets, including a U.S.-compatible

The pool deck features a full-on restaurant and a buffet. Other

plug, as well as a plenitude of outlets elsewhere. The cabin measures

decks feature a card room; cigar room; office for Internet and

(these are my calculations) about 11 ft in width and 36 feet to the

computers; the casino has a roulette table, three blackjack tables,

Boarding the Regent Seven Seas Voyager in Monte Carlo was half the fun; the other half was the realization that our ship and our cabin was the equal of and better than any hotel in Monaco. The elegant central staircase and elevator bank (top right); our cabin (bottom right).

94 |

poker table, and craps table, along with a few rows of one-armed bandits. The Voyager lounge offers live music from 6:30 pm on and features an excellent bar, and karaoke and piano music; it’s intimate, with space for perhaps 50 people. Conversation pits abound on every deck. The handsome library has daily NY Times, Wall St. Journal, USA Today, and a couple of papers from England, including the London Times. The dominant language, if I haven’t mentioned it, is English.

LIFE ONBOARD THE VOYAGER

oarding goes on for most of our first day. At 6 pm, guests are assembled for a Captain’s Welcome &

Reception. The entire crew files in and, once on stage, sings “Anchors Aweigh” in the ship’s Constellation Theater. Then, crewmembers introduce themselves. Each has something charming to say, sometimes clever, often funny. The crew on

EUROLOG 2019 our ship, all 458 of whom spoke excellent English, were from 36

favorite). This elegant sit-down-service shipboard restaurant can

different countries.

accommodate 412 diners, but the acoustics and layout are such

Everyone – and I do mean everyone – on staff always has a big

that one could honestly feel one were in a small New York (or Paris)

smile and a big “Good Morning,” “Good Afternoon,” or “Good

Michelin-rated eatery. The only difference? Reservations are never

Evening” for all passengers. Wait staff and room-cleaning staff make a

needed. The other dinner options include Sette Mari at La Veranda,

big point of knowing each guest’s last name.

Prime 7 Steakhouse, and French-themed Chartreuse, in addition to a

At every port of call there is an abundance of free shore excursions, in addition to a few special trips that might cost an additional fee (never large) if one chooses to go. A shuttle bus for individuals wishing

number of lounges, the pool grill, and a lunch buffet. Room service is swift and served with élan. Recommended evening attire is “elegant casual,” and except for

to visit the town or city on their own where we harbor for the night is

jeans, one pretty much could choose to wear anything. The casino

always available.

is open every day (underway only) from 8:30 pm “until late.” Other

As for the food, well, if the Compass Rose Restaurant were on

amenities include various boutiques, the Canyon Ranch Spa, a fitness

land and within 100 miles, it would be my special-occasion restaurant

center, library, outdoor pool, hot whirlpools, self-service laundrettes

of choice. We ate there almost every night of our cruise (we did try

on passenger decks, and medical services. WiFi is available throughout

the other superb eateries, but Compass Rose was our hands-down

and in the cabins.

The Voyager’s 632-seat Constellation Theater boasts of a state-of-the-art production facility and sound system to match

96 |

A LITTLE ABOUT THE KITCHEN

tour of the enormous kitchen is eye-popping. “The cleaning process is more strict than a hospital,” we’re told as we pass

rows of sparkling stainless steel stations. Ninety-seven percent of everything eaten and/or served on the Voyager is cooked and prepared on board (approximately 450 to 500 dinners are served in an evening) and making pastry and baked goods is a 24-hour operation. Menus are made up two days ahead, for ordering purposes, as most food is ordered from local suppliers. The entire galley is thoroughly cleaned every four hours. Apparently, after only four hours, bacteria can potentially grow to half-level; hence the rigorous schedule and the reason all Regent ships have separate areas for preparation of virtually everything. There are 65 cooking on the line, and another 26 cleaning up. Servers are guaranteed to attend your table in less than two minutes after you first sit down. And, they always know your name. There is no need to go over the various menu items, as you’ll be offered the kinds of choices you’d find in the best restaurants anywhere in the world. And, the nice thing about perusing the menu is that not only don’t you have to wait for your food or drink, you also don’t have to look at prices; there is never a charge, as everything is indeed all-inclusive.

THE SHIP’S CAPTAIN

•••

Important food note: The Compass Rose Restaurant lists a Pan-Fried Foie Gras “on a pond of Balsamic vinegar, topped with a line of rock salt and crushed pistachio” as a starter, so I ordered it. After a first glorious pandemonium-in-mymouth bite of this heavenly essence, I was inclined to kiss the chef, the sous-chef, our server, the goose whose liver I had just bitten into, the supplier, the ship’s captain, anyone even remotely connected to this plate of edible reverie. If you take a cruise on a Regent ship and Pan-Fried Foie Gras is on the menu, order it. I had that same dish as a starter nearly every night of the twelve nights we were on the cruise and fell in love all over again at the first bite, every time. •••

he Voyager’s Captain – Felice Patruno – was born in Corato, Italy, a small town near the castle that appears on the back of a one-

cent (euro) coin. “It’s near Bari, on the heel of Italy,” he says. Captain Patruno has nearly 40 years experience at sea, beginning as a deck hand (at the age of 16, where he found himself making the captain’s bed, cleaning the galley, etc.) on a cargo ship in 1980. “It’s important to know all the jobs on a ship,” he says with a smile during our 20-minute conversation in the Coffee Connection lounge. Although he attended Nautical School, finding work in his chosen field was difficult at the time of his graduation. He has been with Regent since 2009.

EUROLOG 2019 During our talk, the captain praises the state-of-the-art stabilizers that reduce movement by 80%. “They are like airplane wings,” he explains, “and they are inside the body of the ship. When they come out it is six meters (less than twenty feet), one on each side; some ships have four.” “Regent always stays out of any storm, including the mistrals of

THE CRUISE DIRECTOR

ruise Director David Alistair Nevin’s job is to put together five musicians and a 12-person cast – no more, sometimes less – for

a different show every night of our cruise. The talent he assembled is both energetic and impressive. David proffers that “In a lot of ways, the cruise ship industry has

the season,” Captain Patruno says, explaining why we were not able to

kept singing and acting and dancing alive. When you think about it,”

stop in Capri as scheduled. “We went at full speed (19 knots) to avoid

he adds, “there are only so many spots on Broadway, so many spots on

the storm (dubbed Zorba).”

the West End (of London), regional theater and tours. But, there are so

Zorba was a once-in-a-decade-or-longer Mediterranean

many more performers. Some have made careers performing on ships.

The quietly elegant 428-seat Compass Rose; there is plenty of room on the pool deck too hurricane (they called it a “Medi-cane”) that had threatened the area.

So, when I hear [critics such as] Simon Cowell say, ‘Oh, you look like

“Another storm was moving westward south of Crete (rare at this

a cruise ship performer,’ my hackles go up.”

latitude) towards Sicily,” the Captain adds, “then it went to Greece and off to Asia.” Storms such as Zorba are so rare, they don’t start naming at “A”; they simply give it a name if and when one occurs. The Voyager stayed

David notes too that, “because of technological advances that have come along, some of the bigger ships now have full-on shows, and they pull performers from Broadway. For example, Andrea Bocelli performed at the launching of the Explorer, Regent’s newest ship.”

well north of the storm, and avoided any inclement weather. Although

Shore excursions range from: visiting the Caves of Drach in

disappointed in not being able to stop at Capri, my wife, who is prone

Majorca, where musicians play classical music on small boats on Lake

to sea sickness, found the ship so steady she declined to take her sea

Martel, one of Europe’s largest underground lakes; visiting Gaudi’s

sickness pills.

visionary public buildings in Barcelona (by simply walking down the

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EUROLOG 2019 gangplank and heading for the nearest broad avenue); a tour of the Vatican in Rome; wandering in the jewel-like town of Taormina in Italy; fourwheeling it to a small Greek taverna high in the hills of Corfu; a lake cruise and wine tasting in Kotor, Montenegro; a river cruise on an open boat up the Cetina River for lunch in Split, Croatia; a visit to Ljubljana near Koper, Slovenia; and sailing up the Grand Canal in Venice. And, if you simply want to relax on board and let your partner, mate, husband, or wife do the touring, you can spend your day helping put together one of the thousand-piece puzzles in progress in the puzzle room or driving golf balls into the top-deck net. Later, you can enjoy an Afternoon Tea while listening to live piano music and indulging in freshly baked pastries, followed by a team trivia contest on the observation deck. Dinner at the Compass Rose is a must (don’t forget the Pan-Fried Foie Gras), followed by a snifter of Calvados before catching a 9:30 show performed either by the 12-person cast, the songs of Helen Wilding, or the crazy comedy of Kristian Grey. Life should be filled with such choices.

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(top right) A handsome plaza in the medieval town of Kotor, Montenegro; (bottom) Taormina, on the outskirts of Messina, Sicily, has been a tourist destination for over 200 years, ever since Goethe highlighted its attractions in his 1816 “Italian Journey”

MONTECITO COMPOUND

erfectly positioned between the mountains and the sea, this remarkable estate captures the stunning grandeur of a fabled stretch of the California coast. Surrounded by Montecitoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most glorious mansions, it flawlessly integrates the ultimate in luxury with extraordinary elegance, warmth and timeless grace. The home offers a stunning Great Room with rich paneling and high cross-beamed ceilings, the kitchen is a contemporary take on the grand estate kitchens of Europe, and there is an unimpeachably chic master suite with the seductive romance of sweeping views. The family wing provides three bedrooms, a media room, and a bookcase-lined office/additional bedroom. Spectacular natural beauty defines the allure of the 2.5 acre gardens where the eye can wander uninterrupted to the Pacific Ocean. A fitness facility, three-bedroom guest house with a 2-car garage, and one-bedroom guest cottage complete the estate. $15,500,000

GARY GOLDBERG GRI, CRS Owner/Broker www.garygoldberg.net gary@coastalrealty.com DRE#01172139

EUROLOG 2019

LUXURY BARGING ONBOARD THE APRÈS TOUT

ur canal barge (the French call it a péniche) trip on the Après Tout is headed up by co-owner and Cordon Bleu chef

Caroline Macrae, co-owner/captain Rory Macrae, and tour guide Glen Moynan. It is the third canal cruise we’ve taken with the Macraes and this time we had our son Tim, his wife Jacqueline, and their two boys Deacon (7) and Kessler (5) with us. The Macraes’ hospitality has become a magnet and a central focus of our trips to France. Ordinarily, we’d have been picked up by a Mercedes mini-bus at our hotel in Paris and brought to Après Tout’s regular dock on the Canal du Centre in St. Jean de Losne, but we all arrived separately and met instead at the train station in Chalon-sur-Saône. When we board, we’re celebrated with a chilled Kir Royale, and later enjoy our first four-course dinner. This year’s cruise is a family cruise on the Canal du Centre in the heart of Burgundy, France’s center of culinary marvels and home of the best wines in the world – Montrachet (100% Chardonnay) and Romanée Conti (100% Pinot Noir). The French canal system is a brilliant technological achievement. It began with Louis XIV (between 1667 and 1681) and the construction of the Canal du Midi, which connected the 240 kilometers of waterways between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. “Nineteenth-century knowhow is what has perfected the system,” Glen (a history nut) says. “Hydraulics,” he adds, “is one of those innovations. Creating water reservoirs was another.” Today, most of the canals are used exclusively for recreational boaters such as Après Tout. “The French government,” Glen notes, “only recently has realized how important the system is and what a tourist draw the canals actually are,” and bemoans the lack of attention the system has received over the years. Péniches, sailboats, motorboats, and other craft negotiate the various locks through verdant countryside featuring the smallest of

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painting by David Napp www.davidnappfineart.com

| 103

EUROLOG 2019 typical French villages to the biggest cities in France. People from all

dark, our grandsons are served grape juice in the same kind of glasses we

over Europe use the canals to take their boats to various ports along the

use for tasting the various wines.

Mediterranean to avoid the notoriously difficult English Channel and the often turbulent Atlantic Ocean.

We find ourselves always moving, whether bicycling, walking, running, or hot-tubbing on board. We soak up the early fall light while downing a breakfast of espresso or tea, freshly baked pastries and bread from a local boulangerie, along with fresh fruit, yogurts, cheeses, meats, cereal, eggs, bacon, and saucisson. We enjoy our Cordon Bleu lunches on the sunny deck and don sweaters and scarves for al fresco dinners, also topside. We talk, we laugh, we revel in countryside and comfort.

We chartered a family outing on the Après Tout through the verdant Bourgogne countryside and enjoyed the company of our son, his wife, and two of our grandchildren We drift (at speeds as slow as 3 km per hour and as “speedy” as 7 km per hour) through Palinges and Génelard, the Rempart Madeleine, Morey, and Savigny-lès-Beaune. In Dijon, we and the boys prowl around the ramparts of the palace of the Dukes of This trip is likely to shape our grandchildren’s idea of what a travel

Burgundy, rivals to, and as powerful as, the Kings of France at one

adventure should entail. Going down into the wine cellars of a local

point. We visit the classic autos, motorcycles, and particularly the

winery, for example, was enjoyable for us adults, but the kids enjoyed

vintage WWII airplanes lined up outside the château in Dennevy.

it equally. Dark, deep, and cool, the vintner shuts the lights off briefly,

Back on the barge, the boys ride their bikes alongside as we lay back

creating a sincerely spooky pre-Halloween environment. In the near

and soak up even more countryside.

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Captain Rory Macrae and his crew see to it that your one-week cruise aboard the AprĂ¨s Tout includes scenic delights, delicious meals, and first-class accommodations

| 105

EUROLOG 2019

106 |

EUROLOG 2019 Next year (2020) Alsace is Après Tout’s targeted “virgin” route.

continue to research more. Creating specialized tours is their forte;

“We aim to do some funky stuff up there,” Rory says, “including

they arrange food tours, wine tours, and cycling tours. Coming up is

what is basically a giant lift [elevator]; the barge is placed on a lift

a cooking week during which participants will be deboning a quail,

and hauled up the side of a hill to the top, then we head towards

visiting outdoor markets with the chef, and a mushroom grower/

Strasbourg (in France), including going through two actual tunnels.

cultivator. They’ll make special desserts, meals, and salads. “With

We’re collaborating on research to plan out the voyages to build an

enough information ahead of time,” says Glen, “we can plan anything.”

itinerary. We want it to be really special.”

We do believe they can indeed “plan anything.” In every case,

Rory and Glen have arranged golf tours for 2019 (I don’t believe there are any more availabilities for this year) and into 2020 and beyond. They’ve signed up five different golf courses so far and

our weeks onboard the Après Tout have been the highlights of our European vacations. For more information, go to www.bargeaprestout.com.

Stopping everywhere and anywhere we want is one of the great attractions of a canal cruise on the Après Tour; the boys (5 and 7 years old) could ride alongside on bicycles or sit in the hot tub as we parents and grandparents revel in the late summer sun. Often, we’d all hop off to visit some of the more intriguing structures nearby.

| 107

EUROLOG 2019

AMA WATERWAYS

he main focus of AmaWaterways river cruises is Central Europe: the Danube, Rhine, and Maine, focused on seasonality. March

and April is tulip time in Antwerp, Bruges, and Amsterdam. In France, they cruise the Seine, Rhone, and Saône. “The appeal of focusing on river tours,” explains Kristin Karst, cofounder and co-owner of AmaWaterways with her husband, Rudolph (Rudi) Schreiner, “is that you always have your hotel with you. You

The 150-passenger AmaCerto can sail right into the heart of a city or town, as it does here in Passau, Germany on the Danube

never have to unpack, and you are always in the middle of the country you are visiting.” “The roadways are congested,” she says.

THE CHRISTMAS MARKETS

n September 1992, the Rhine was connected with the Danube, an idea that was at least 800 years in the making. Before that,

“The rivers are not.”

one could take a short cruise on the Rhine and a short cruise on

Our boat is the AmaCerto.

the Danube. But, soon after the connection, UniWorld and then

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EUROLOG 2019 Viking began offering longer river cruises going from the Rhine to the

Holland,” notes Rudi, “called Keukenhof Gardens, has the biggest

Danube. Less than eight years later, in March 2000, Rudi, who had

flower show imaginable.”

worked for UniWorld, was hired by Viking and helped them open a

We (I, Helen, Tim, Jacqueline, Deacon, and Kessler) didn’t board

Woodland Hills office. One of his first hires was Kristin, who at the

until late November, so our seven-day Danube cruise wasn’t focused on

time was teaching German to first-, second-, and third-graders at her

flowers; we had set our attention on the wonders of Central Europe’s

daughter’s school.

Christmas Markets.

Six years later, they launched their own company, first called Amadeus Waterways, but when denied the right to copyright the name “Amadeus,” which translates to “Love of God,” changed their name to AmaWaterways. Those first trips featured tulip cruises in Holland and Belgium from late March, April, until early May. “One area in

110 |

Jacqueline and Tim enjoy a freshly made Döner Kabab during a visit to various stalls along the Danube during Christmas Market season

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EUROLOG 2019

LIFE ON BOARD

World Heritage Site town of Cesky Krumlov in South Bohemia (where

ays on the river begin with morning stretches and gentle yoga

the boys were enthralled with their visit to the Medieval House of

(for those wishing to do so), and organic freshly squeezed

Torture), Durnstein in Lower Austria, Linz, just 30 kilometers from

juices. “The clients appreciate it,” says Kristin. The AmaCerto makes

the Czech border, Bratislava (a personal favorite), Budapest, and other

all its own pastries, and covers all allergies (“Ten percent of our

picturesque towns, villages, and cities along the Danube.

clients have some kind of allergy,” says Kristin). Full-on breakfasts are

In the middle of each city and town, we visit an array of

served up to 10:30 in the morning. There are 25 bicycles on board,

Christmas Markets (Vienna alone boasts of over 40 separate

wine (always local) is free-flowing and comes with the price of the

markets), wherein only locally made products are sold. Nothing can

cruise. Fish, too, is always local.

be imported.

It’s quiet now, but AmaCerto’s piano lounge is often alive with music and laughter until the wee hours; (right) the elegant central staircase

Every dish on every menu is classified by letters A through R

Servicing every booth and stall are the artisans whose creations

according to its ability to trigger an allergy or simply some kind

we examine. We gorge on Hungarian goulash served in loaves of

of intolerance. Wines, in addition to a few California staples, are

fresh bread and learn the practical reason it is served in bread rather

chosen according to the region the boat is traveling through. Dinner

than bowls: the stew remains hot longer. We drink warm beer, hot

choices are extensive and a large section of vegetarian dishes is always

cider, and mulled wine in the makeshift outdoor “pubs,” munch on

included. Menu items include everything from Crêpes Suzette

giant salted freshly made pretzels; in Vienna; Weiner Schnitzel is a

and Crème Brûlée to Poularde de Bresse, Carré d’agneau Roti a la

regular dinner offering, tiny kasekrainter sausages with cheese inside

Dijonnaise, to a GOP Striploin steak.

are another favorite.

Our seven-day “Christmas Markets” founders’ cruise features visits to Passau in Bavaria, Budapest, Vienna, the 12th century U.N.

112 |

Austrian pastries are not to be avoided. We touch and delight in delicate Christmas ornaments of blown

glass, clay, wood, and tin, stuffed elves, sleighs and Santas, hand-

Antoinette, one of the daughters of Maria Therese of Austria (who

made chocolates and sweets, sweaters, scarves, gloves, and hats sewn,

had 15, or was it 16 children?), married Louis XVI and introduced

stitched, and knitted, elaborate lamps, even furniture. The market

croissants to the French court. Rumor has it that when advising the

in Bratislava, Slovakia, for me, is the jewel in the crown, a glorious

peasants she knew so little about but who seemed not to have any

celebration of Eastern European ingenuity.

bread, she did not say, “Let them eat cake,” she said “Let them eat

Being Californians – and as much as we had prepared ourselves for the weather –, even with scarves, sweaters, coats,

and gloves, we are cold. It snows. The weather shifts from crisp fall days and nights to wintry freeze virtually overnight. And stays that way. We love it, and stop at teahouses, pubs, stalls, and

croissants.” We’ll never know.

THE AMAMAGNA

maWaterways’ newest ship, the AmaMagna (above), nearly double the width of other riverboats, was being built in Linz,

booths to stock up on hot chocolate, hot cider, and mulled wine

Austria and has now been launched. In addition to being twice the

to stay warm; street performers on stilts and Christmas carolers

width, its cabins are substantially larger too. It features Jimmy’s

are omnipresent.

Restaurant (the name of Rudi’s former partner), a Chef ’s Table, a

In Vienna, we learn that croissants are an Austrian invention,

demonstration kitchen, and an al fresco restaurant.

not French. When a baker working late in the night heard that the

The introduction of AmaMagna is likely to cause a radical

Austrian army had expelled the Turks from his country, to celebrate

transformation in the size of riverboats, especially those plying the

the victory, he created the half-moon bread/pastry. Later, Marie

Rhine and the Danube.

| 113

EUROLOG 2019

OTHER RIVER CRUISES

maWaterways has 20 ships (16 owned, two leased in Portugal and Africa, and two others 50/50) and are building three more

this year, so the breadth and numbers of tours available is substantial. There are wine cruises, chocolate cruises, beer cruises, painting cruises, cruises for sports clubs, hockey teams; Disney chartered 27 AmaWaterways cruises last year. Kristin has set up a golf program from Budapest to Vilshofen, taking in courses in Slovakia, Hungary, Austria, and Germany, and guests will be able to play in those four countries, either as individuals or in small groups. As for the rest of the world? “The Mekong,” Rudi says, “is a totally unique experience. Every time I do it – and I’ve done it nine times – I love it all again. Cambodia is great too, but it is getting busier and younger.” He also loves Phnom Penh. “There are a lot of rivers in the world but very few with a concentration of sights,” Kristin notes. “The Vietnam cruise is one of those places, as is the Nile,” she adds. “Europe

CEO Heather Schuyler Gray (right) and chief Travel Consultant Jessica Fisher of Robertson International Travel Consultants

too because there are so many small villages along the way.” They both agreed that a river cruise in Rwanda is “the ultimate travel experience.” For more, you are invited to visit www.amawaterways.com.

“drop-off” charge; so much for the single-market European Union!), where we were scheduled to board AmaCerto for our Christmas Market cruise on the Danube. But 2018 was a drought year and the Danube at Nuremberg

TRAVEL AGENTS

was too low for boarding; the embarkation point was changed to Vilshofen, Germany, some 250 kilometers further south. I

obertson International Travel Consultants helped us make the

was unable to make that change in drop-off location without

initial contact and we would not have been able to negotiate

permission of Hertz in Italy and spent a fruitless day trying.

our passage successfully with Regent or AmaWaterways were it not

One call to Kiona in the U.S., however, made the difference. She

for Robertson Travel.

collared a Hertz executive in New York who cut through the red

I rented my cars through Hertz and reserved them through

tape and made the arrangements. Without Kiona, I would have

Kiona Gross at AAA Travel (3712 State Street, Santa Barbara, CA

had to drive the extra 250 kilometers, board a train for another

93105 805-898-2870) to guarantee the booking.

250 kilometers back to Vilshofen and hope I’d make it before the

Good thing I did.

ship left. Because of Kiona, I was able to drop the car in Passau,

The little Audi (stick shift) I picked up outside Venice, Italy,

Germany and take a short 30-kilometer taxi ride back to the port

was contracted to be returned in Nuremburg, Germany (for a hefty

114 |

in Vilshofen.

Kyle Forsyth is now a partner with Compass. Kyle is an alumnus of UCSB and has more than 25 years of insight into the rich and charming character of the distinct communities spanning Santa Barbara County. Kyle brings extensive experience in private equity where for over 17 years he specialized in luxury single-family estates, acclaimed hotels, master-planned communities, and ranches. MonteAlegreDr.com

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Compass is a licensed real estate broker (01991628) in the State of California and abides by Equal Housing Opportunity laws. All material presented herein is intended for informational purposes only. Information is compiled from sources deemed reliable but is subject to errors, omissions, changes in price, condition, sale, or withdraw without notice.

EUROLOG 2019

ROBERTSON INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL

“W

hen you get into a situation, it’s good to have a human to turn to so that you’re not wasting time on your vacation

trying to unravel things yourself,” Robertson Travel owner Heather Schuyler Gray says in response to my Hertz tale. “An agent’s knowledge of the logistics and understanding of piecing elements of a trip together can help that become a seamless process just by the little details that you as the traveler might not have thought of in the first place,” adds Jessica Fisher, Heather’s chief Travel Consultant. Their affiliation with Virtuoso, a luxury traveling consortium, and personal contacts with general managers and sales managers at various

Santa Barbara Travel CEO Charles de L’Arbre and his brother/partner David de L’Arbre

hotels and outlets, often gives them potential “to clear inventory,”

way the websites approach it,” he notes. “We start with what the client

Heather says, “that doesn’t show up online.”

wants, as opposed to the available options out there to choose from.”

“We are experienced travel ambassadors,” offers Heather. “We

Mr. de L’Arbre says he arranges concierge service and luggage

can get you your down pillows, put you on the top of an upgrade list;

forwarding services. “We’ll send over four suitcases to Europe, for

you’ll have the name and telephone number of the driver that’s picking

example. You’ll need to pack and have everything ready two weeks

you up.”

before you depart, but your luggage will be there on your ship and in

“Many travelers,” adds Jessica, “don’t take into consideration the time cost of going on the internet and doing comparisons for their hotels, tours, cruises, car rentals, which can be considerable.” Robertson International Travel Consultants can be reached at 510 State Street, Suite 220, Santa Barbara, CA 93101 (805-969-3221).

your cabin when you arrive. “If you want to be met at the gate, whisked here or there, met at the plane in Paris and taken through lines with passports,” he says he can help, and often does. “Our seventy-two years in business speaks for itself,” he concludes. “Our advice is correct, service is good, pricing is fair, we don’t screw

SANTA BARBARA TRAVEL

hen we asked Charles de L’Arbre, CEO of Santa Barbara Travel, why one should use a travel agent, he responds that

his job is “to put together what is essentially a mathematical equation. I’ve been doing this for forty-five years, so I have a solution in mind, essentially, within the first two minutes, and often the solution is

people, and we have a great staff and a half-dozen agents that have been with us for thirty years.” Established in 1946, Santa Barbara Travel Bureau (sbtravel.com) is also a Virtuoso member with offices in Santa Barbara (805-966-3116) and Montecito (805-969-7746). ••• Those were our experiences traveling the waterways and shorelines

pretty simple. I know the type of hotels they’re looking for, I know the

of Europe. Whichever way you go – by ship, boat, or barge, allow me

airlines they want. The way we approach it is quite different from the

to wish you a great big Bon Voyage!

116 |

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DOWN ON THE CORNER

f you placed a camera on time-lapse at the corner of Olive Mill and Coast Village roads in Montecito, you would see constant veins of people and cars pumping through the heart of this intersection.

If you watched this camera over decades, a 1950s-style Union 76 gas station occupied a prominent corner post of the crossroads, opposite the iconic Montecito Inn. A few years ago, the old gas station was torn down and for

ON FINE ART

three years this corner was a construction site. In 2018, in the middle of the development and only for a brief few moments, you wouldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen a flash flood of mud flow come sweeping down Olive Mill Road. As the rainwater and debris swirled past, the project on the corner went almost unscathed. Shortly after the disaster and for over a year, you would have seen a large sign posted on a neighboring fence across from the intersection expressing gratitude and love for the first responders. Since March 21, 2019 a golden red sculpture by Robert Indiana has been prominently perched in the front of a curving wall of windows that wrap around the corner showcasing one word: LOVE. The sculpture is one piece in the Heather James Fine Art collection that is housed in a new gallery on this critical and most visible of corners.

120 |

BY BRIANA WESTMACOTT

| 121

ONFINEART

The Heather James Montecito location is the fifth gallery to be unveiled by husband/wife team James Carona and Heather Sacre. Twenty-three years ago, their first gallery opened in Palm Desert and was followed by Jackson Hole, New York, and San Francisco. Along with the galleries, the couple has art consultancies in Newport Beach, Los Angeles, Austin, Chicago, and Basel, Switzerland. What began as a passion for international antiquities has morphed over time. Heather James now showcases some of the world’s most prestigious artists’ works; Andy Warhol, Pablo Picasso, Roy Lichtenstein, Edward Hopper, and Jackson Pollock are currently displayed in Montecito while Claude Monet, Mark Rothko, and Joan Mitchell have previously graced those walls. Salvador Dali, Signature de Dali, c. 1955, oil on canvas

Claude Monet, Le Mont Riboudet à Rouen au Printemps, 1872, oil on canvas

122 |

ONFINEART

How did Heather James end up on the corner of Olive Mill and Coast Village? It all began when Jim and Heather vacationed in the Santa Barbara area and thought, “Wouldn’t it be great to have a gallery out here?” Jim says, “A lot of times, decisions to expand to different geographies are both personal and strategic.” Beyond the desire to spend part of the summer months in Montecito, Jim and Heather had a friend from the area approach them about the corner position in the Olive Mill project and as Jim emphasizes, “There could not be a better location than that corner.” Roy Lichtenstein, Reflections on Crash, 1990, lithograph, screenprint, relief, and metalized PVC collage

124 |

ONFINEART

The gallery is set up much like a museum. This has always been a goal for Heather and Jim. They have backgrounds in art, art history, education, and finance and they strive to impart knowledge through the art they bring to the walls of their galleries. “For us,” Jim comments, “it’s about sharing the remarkable art that we acquire.” The art in Heather James is eclectic; there are exquisite, modern pieces hanging next to global classics and local work. The prices vary immensely, with pieces for a few thousand dollars up to several million. This broad mix of inventory is unique for a gallery and provides for a wide range of genres within the price ranges. Sculpture, prints, and painting represent the depth of the collection. Gallery manager Monica Matula describes the artwork in the Montecito gallery as a “greatest hits spectrum of art.” She says they brought in many “heavy hitters to show the area what we have to offer.” I understand what Matula means by “heavy hitter” when I stand in front of a 5’10’’ tall Andy Warhol oil painting called Knives. My feet immediately glued to the floor, my mind went silent, and Matula stepped back to give me some space. She must see it often: the

Robert Rauschenberg, Bugle (Scale), 1979, solvent transfer, fabric, mirrored plexiglass, and acrylic on plywood with electric lights and objects

human reaction brought on when one finds oneself within an armsreach of masterwork. I could feel my heart beating with a sense of excitement mixed with mystery. After I admired and pondered Warhol’s work, I turned to find myself in front of Dali’s Signature de Dali. Matula explains that the bright red ink splashed across the canvas is, in fact, Dali’s signature and he had created the piece live on television. Adjacent to Dali, I was struck by Roy Lichtenstein’s 6’ wide Reflections on Crash. There is not a lack of masterpieces to be viewed and shopped at Heather James. Matula was an excellent guide and she emphasized the gallery’s wish to have the community stop by to visit. Whether you are looking to acquire a new piece for your collection or you would like to spend some time standing in front of one-of-a-kind art, Heather James is the spot. As Matula was telling her tale about how they landed on the corner of Olive Mill and Coast Village, she came to the part about the

Robert Indiana, LOVE, 1966-2002, polychrome aluminum

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ONFINEART

mudflow. My eyes widened and I inquired, “Experiencing this midway through the construction must have made you fearful about setting up shop here?” She didn’t hesitate, “Not in the least.” She went on to point out that the kindness, strength, and communal force that they felt through the disaster only made them more assured in their choice for the Montecito gallery, especially that corner. It’s a prime spot from which to keep their fingers on the pulse of Montecito. Gallery manager, Monica Matula, gallery director, Tom Venditti, and owners, Heather Sacre and Jim Carona

HEATHER JAMES FINE ART 1298 Coast Village Road, Montecito, CA 93108 (805) 845-5001 www.heatherjames.com

Pablo Picasso, Seated Female Nude, from “Diurnes”, 1962, linocut in Colors

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UNRIVALED

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THE ART OF MYSTERY ED BY TED MILLS PHOTOS EDWARD CLYNES

hen you look at Sol Hill’s pointillist works of art, you might think you are looking at a photograph. Sol Hill is here to correct you. “They are ‘camera-based work,’” he says. “I don’t call them photographs anymore, because strictly speaking photographs are recordings of light. It is light writing. What I’m working with is as much light energy as the recording of all the energies that a digital sensor will capture that aren’t light.” Reminiscent of Seurat, the pixelation of Chuck Close, the mysterious layers of Rothko, and that one cool

iPhone photo you saved because a glitch looked beautiful, Hill’s ambiguous visions of cities, people, and architecture comfort and unsettle in equal measure. Pushing digital sensors to the limit (think of how grainy low-light pics look on your iPhone, then multiply that by 1,000), Hill brings luck and uncertainty to his captures, which he calls metagraphs. So okay, you think, when you look at his work you are seeing technology. Sol Hill is here to correct you, again. “Remember on analog televisions, when a station would go off the air, there was just that snow?” he asks. “That snow is the remnant to the Big Bang. That’s the energy signature that pervades all of the cosmos. In a sense, that’s what is being captured in these works.” There are world altering ideas afoot in Hill’s work, whether that’s a comment on how we are changed by surveillance, social media, and fake news, or whether Hill himself is trying to change the conversation through confrontational and humorous work. To talk with Hill in his large Funk Zone studio on Santa Barbara Street is to go on a long, perambulatory journey, a holistic barrage of ideas and concepts, along with a running bibliography of articles and books to check out.

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THEARTOFMYSTERY Visitors to his studio often want to know exactly what they’re looking at. He’s the wrong person to ask. “My intention is that mystery is really and truly important,” he

exposures are very long, and at every step Hill finds himself beholden to the vagaries of the process. Hill shows in town, but he finds he sells to out of town folk,

says. “Mystery is what drives science forward. Scientists are curious and

including a lot of East Coasters. “It seems that contemporary art has a

they realize we don’t understand everything. Mystery always brings

harder sell in Santa Barbara,” he admits. This year he showed at major

forward an evolution of consciousness… There are always more layers

art shows in Los Angeles and Palm Springs, and will be showing in

of the onion to move through. If you follow both arcs of science and

Gallery 825 in Los Angeles and down in Culver City.

spirituality, ultimately they’re going to wrap around to the same place.” He calls his creative process with the metagraphs the opposite of

Both Hill’s parents were artists. They divorced when he was young (“they couldn’t stand to be on the same side of the Mississippi,” he

Ansel Adams’ way of working. Unlike that famed photographer, there is

jokes). One was affluent and unstable, he says. The other was less

no previsualization. “It’s a dance with the moment, time, and place.” The

affluent but more stable. The father became the head of several art

- ca

di sopra -

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SUSAN BURNS

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ÂŠ2019 Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices California Properties (BHHSCP) is a member of the franchise system of BHH affiliates LLC. BHH Affiliates LLC and BHHSCP do not guarantee accuracy of all data including measurements, conditions, and features of property. Information is obtained from various sources and will not be verified by broker or MLS. Buyer is advised to independently verify the accuracy of that information.

THEARTOFMYSTERY departments in higher education. The mother kept operating their art gallery in Santa Fe, New Mexico (the city’s first contemporary gallery, by the way). Hill remembers moving a lot. Sol Hill uses his studio to work and to show, and he’s been a good neighbor to other artists. He’s opened shows for assemblage master Michael Long, hard abstract painter Chad Avery (which produced a few amazing collaborative pieces), collagist Sue Van Horsen, and others. His direct neighbor, Marlyn Daggett, has used Hill’s huge walls to show her large format works as well. Other times, you can see works in progress. That was the case for several months as he worked on his large anti-Trump works, fake gold painted quotes from the commander-in-chief in his own writing font, surrounded by a hard, bumpy, lacquered surface made from thousands and thousands of glowing orange Cheetos. (Woe betide those at his art opening who confused the bowl of lacquered Cheetos with the snack tray.) He also created an installation about attacks on privacy, with lightboxes containing sheet after

THEARTOFMYSTERY sheet of redacted government documents on its domestic GPS surveillance policy. Other works in the installation offer up data and footage of the gallery’s visitors in real time. His upcoming installation work is on gun violence. “Since Columbine, I’ve been horrified at these mass shootings, and I always wondered what I can do as an artist,” he says. “I don’t want to give anything away just yet, but it will be an interactive community work, a projection chamber, where all images are from those who have lost loved ones to gun violence.” He wants the project to be portable so communities that experienced such trauma can host it free of charge. “I’m not suited to be a non-profit director,” he says about these social critique sides to his art. “But the arts form and inform and affect culture. And if culture changes then everything changes. At the very least they will stand as a testament and record of the time. So hopefully we can learn from our mistakes.”

For more information and to see Hill’s work, visit www.solhill.com

Labor Day Weekend

Open Studios Tour SB Studio Artists to Host 18th Annual Event Labor Day weekend, Aug 30-Sept 2, 2019 Opening Reception Aug 30 at Santa Barbara Fine Art Santa Barbara Studio Artists’ Open Studios Tour is the oldest and most prestigious event of its kind on the Central California Coast, drawing national and international collectors, decorators, and gallery owners for a weekend devoted to viewing and purchasing exceptional art. This year’s tour features 45 acclaimed artists, including Dorothy Churchill-Johnson, Kathleen Elsey, Karen Fedderson, Francine Kirsch, Cynthia Martin, Larry Rankin, Lena Savage, Richard Schloss, Francis Scorzelli, and many more.

Each year this exceptional group of artists opens its members’ studios to the public for a sought-after chance to visit the artists in their work environment. The opening night reception is Friday, Aug. 30, from 5:00 – 8:00 p.m. at Santa Barbara Fine Art Gallery, 1324 State Street, Suite J (in the Arlington Plaza), where tour maps and tickets are available. Tickets and details are also available online: www. santabarbarastudioartists.com. The gallery will display selected works from the tour throughout the month of August.

www.santabarbarastudioartists.com

Proceeds from the event benefit William Sansum Diabetes Research Institute, a leader in diabetes treatment and research.

BASKE IN THE GLOW

BY MEGAN WALDREP PHOTOS BY EDWARD CLYNES

ow often do you walk into a shop in Santa Barbara to discover products created by the owners themselves? Enter Baske, the fashion child of husband and wife team, Dave Sumares and Nana Baek, who are actual shoe designers with over twenty years of experience. For Nana – who holds

a degree from Parsons School of Design and a background as a fashion designer in NYC – this kind of hands-on expertise equals a deep understanding of fashion, the importance of personal style, and what it means for each client to feel confident. Visiting both store locations, or clicking the website, you will discover many shoes with a signature look: a combination of a boot plus sandal with the style benefits of both. “Being shoe designers, we have new styles coming in every few months,” Dave said. He then describes a new seamless ankle bootie with a sandblown feeling like you’ve visited an exotic desert. Sign us up.

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BASKE

If you have yet to experience Baske, co-owner and designer Dave describes the relaxed and friendly space as “a place where people can discover a fun, curated selection of our own footwear collection, as well as clothes and accessories from independent brands with their own unique story.” Baske often receives limited amounts of new items from these small brands, such as “easy, breezy” clothing and accessories they think customers will love. It seems each time you stop by, you’re in for a limited-edition treat. “We love the idea of the return of the neighborhood boutique, operated by owners who enjoy engaging with the community,” Dave said. “We hope customers leave happier, more confident and rewarded with the feeling of acquiring something with great value and that will last over time.”

BASKE SANTA BARBARA Shops @ Waterline, 120 Santa Barbara Street MONTECITO 1268 Coast Village Road (805) 324-4194 www.baskecalifornia.com

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IN THE HEART OF MIRAMAR BEACH 15 MIRAMAR AVENUE | MONTECITO, CA 93108

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115 MIRAMAR AVENUE | MONTECITO, CA 93108 DRE 01499736/01129919 Â©2019 Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices California Properties (BHHSCP) is a member of the franchise system of BHH Affiliates LLC. BHH Affiliates LLC and BHHSCP do not guarantee accuracy of all data including measurements, conditions, and features of property. Information is obtained from various sources and will not be verified by broker or MLS. Buyer is advised to independently verify the accuracy of that information.

REEF MADNESS

photo by Romain Rivierre 142 |

1979 I t was a very good year (to paraphrase

UPPER VILLAGE TO PALM BEACH TO PALAWAN ISLAND: GLENN ESPIG’S UNLIKELY JOURNEY TO THE GOLDEN PEARL

Sinatra). Beaded handbags swung from every shoulder, people said “boogie” without irony, and the

Sony Walkman introduced the practice of

dazedly shimmying into rush hour traffic to Gloria Gaynor’s “I Will Survive.” 1979 was also the year Filipino entrepreneur Manuel Cojuangco and French pearl farmer Jacques Branellec joined forces to found Jewelmer, a plucky little perliculture business whose compassionate intuitions would in time embrace the South Sea home of the vanishing Gold-Lipped Oyster. In the course of their commercial venture, the

BY JEFF WING

two far-seeing Jewelmer founders would all but adopt an island in the Philippine chain – a place called Palawan – and invest

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REEF MADNESS

themselves emotionally and otherwise in the indigenous community there, lavishing resources and education on the South Sea idyll. Finally, in that perfect entrepreneurial storm that combines good business and environmental common sense, the partners would throw their arms around embattled reefs that today comprise a robust 36% of the Philippine archipelago’s living coral. It hasn’t been easy.

“Reefs in the area are still being threatened by a number of things – dynamite fishing, cyanide fishing,” says Glenn Espig, late of Montecito’s Oliver and Espig Gallery in the upper village, and more recently a parttime habitué of Palm Beach, Florida. “You can’t say to somebody ‘stop making a living,’” Glenn rightly points out. Palawan’s coastal locals were once one of the main threats to reefs, pulling sustenance from land and

pearl not only fulfills its owner’s desire for beauty, but also gives back to

sea by any means necessary. “People have a right to make a living any

the reefs, the community, and sustainable practices.”

way they can. But you can help redirect their efforts and still provide

The momentous project begun by Cojuangco and Branellec is

for their families.” Glenn pauses. “I have to tell you, these two guys

now being carried forward by the younger generation, which includes

have done a wonderful thing. They are committed to the nature and

the daily operational involvement of Executive Vice President and

the community and they have the most humane work practices, and

Deputy CEO Jacques Christophe Branellec, and Gayle Branellec, head

as a result of all that they are able to offer to the world this beautiful

of the design department for the company.

and unique and very rare golden gem that fits perfectly the sustainable luxury qualification. When acquired,” Glenn continues, “the golden

144 |

This is the Jewelmer story: sustainable luxury with a terrific topspin.

REEF MADNESS

A PURVEYOR OF GOLDEN PEARLS AND HOPE

self-sustaining economic engine. But whence the resources that made all this possible? Ah, yes. In the still center of this 40-year swirl of positivity lies – quite appropriately – a Golden Pearl. The South Sea Golden Pearl, to be exact. Why is it called the South Sea Golden Pearl? Because it is

hat began in 1979 as a sound business plan to cultivate

found in the South Sea and radiates the jaw-dropping luster of polished

golden pearls – and, by the way, rescue the endangered bivalve

gold. Okay? No two golden pearls are exactly alike, but harvest enough

jewelers that produced them – morphed into something the two

of them and, over time, mathematically implausible riches may be hung

founders likely didn’t foresee. In the fullness of time and entrepreneurial

about the neck.

benevolence, Jewelmer’s South Sea perliculture practices would join

“One of the things you’ll notice here is that there are no matches

commerce, cultural uplift, and ecological stewardship in a showcase

of color,” Glenn says, gesturing casually at stuff grown miraculously

instance of what Adam Smith might have called Enlightened Global

between the golden lips of unspeakably fragile marine creatures. “So

Interest. Once having saved the endangered Gold-Lipped Oyster from

the most famous gold strand took thirty-seven years to produce. It’s

oblivion, Jewelmer would pivot to the nearby island of Palawan (located

called The Palawan.” The perfectly graduated sizes of the strand’s

about 500 miles southwest of Manila) and reframe the culture there as a

gorgeously arrayed golden pearls, the uniformity of texture and hue –

REEF MADNESS

KNIGHTS OF THE SOUTH SEA

orking with local Philippine government entities and likeminded private individuals, Save Palawan Seas Foundation

has focused efforts on deeply embedding on the island a culture of renewable economics that has long since been adopted by a generation of the Palawan people. Chop-and-burn forestry and reef-destroying fishing practices have been replaced by such island industries as beekeeping (SPSF introduced 20 colonies of Apis mellifera bees to help with fruit pollination and honey production on the island), a profitable cashew-growing enterprise, and the raising of herbally detoxified organic free range chickens, to name but three initiatives. SPSF sees that health workers visit the island and – working with the Northern Palawan Provincial Hospital – dispense free check-ups, procedures, and medicine to these disparate rural communities. Youth in island schools partake of SPSF-sponsored Youth Environmental Workshops that inculcate in Palawan’s kids an appreciation for, and determination to one grows dizzy contemplating the stretch of nautical miles over which

sustainably nurture, their home island and marine environs.

these pearls were dispersed in their shadowed submarine beds, and over what stretches of time collected, and that thanks to the determination of artisans they should now be gathered in one place. The Palawan is an objet de vertu one can drape across two hands, and whose rare elements were once scattered across the South Seas. This Golden Pearl is Jewelmer’s commercial raison d’être, if not necessarily the spirit that wholly animates the company. Jewelmer – in the persons of Manuel Cojuangco and Jacques Branellec –

For these and other efforts underwritten by the South Sea Golden

has in the course of its business evolution reinvested in the island

Pearl, in 2017 Manuel Cojuangco and Jacques Branellec received the

of Palawan and her indigenous people. Following many years of

Chevalier dans l’Ordre National de la Légion d’ Honneur, an honorific

engaging Palawans in both perliculture and the building out of self-

Knighthood established by a certain Napoleon Bonaparte to recognize

sustaining economic structures, in 2005 the two gentlemen made

examples of grand civil merit. Jewelmer’s South Sea Golden Pearl

their love of the place public, founding the non-profit Save Palawan

is commensurate with the vast and humane successes of the many-

Seas Foundation (SPSF) – an organization dedicated to introducing

splendored Jewelmer mission. Lives have been changed, renewable

Palawan’s people to non-destructive, sustainable livelihoods that can

prosperity taken up and modeled by a once-beleaguered indigenous people

continue in perpetuity.

– and a rare marine gem brought to bear on doing good. Radiantly.

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REEF MADNESS

IN THE SUNSHINE STATE

“T

his is what communities used to do,” says Glenn Espig earnestly. He’s wearing that lightly suppressed smile familiar

to those who know Glenn by his habits. “They would get together and say, ‘How do we fix this?’” Never one to crow, Glenn finds himself – as Jewelmer’s anointed representative and partner in the U.S. – at the quiet center of the company’s positive maelstrom. Glenn oversees Jewelmer’s flagship boutique in Palm Beach, Florida, a scant 2,762 miles away from Montecito’s cozy upper village, where the Oliver and Espig Gallery still holds court. “I’m excited I’ve been given this path to walk,” Glenn says. “It’s been a gift.”

Jewelmer’s flagship U.S. store in Palm Beach has blossomed. “Not only has it been a success – it’s allowed me to keep my Santa Barbara staff, keep the Oliver and Espig gallery open through difficult times, and allowed me to put a nursery in the back so my Montecito employees could have their kids at work. I’m concerned about the ocean, the reef, and the oysters, but I’m also concerned about my staff and my family. I can only save a little bit of my community,” Glenn says, referring to the events of early 2018, “but I’m grateful to have In the wake of the tragic debris flow that so devastated Montecito in January 2018, Glenn was presented a road less traveled that would take him far afield. His Oliver and Espig staff would remain in Montecito and masterfully oversee his upper village gallery while

been given the opportunity to do that.” Jewelmer’s Golden Pearls are working overtime for communities all over the globe. They seem up to the challenge. Montecito’s Oliver and Espig continues to exhibit unusual fine art,

Glenn would head to far-flung Palm Beach and have a chat with a

sculpture, and a large collection of deliciously-vibrant gemstone jewelry

couple of celebrated oyster magnates. “The gallery had closed for

by artists from all over the world. Gallery manager Marcia Ribeiro has

more than a month,” Glenn says. “I foresaw the difficulty in doing

traveled to the South Sea Jewelmer operations and can speak to the

business in the wake of that awful event and I started casting about for

harmony and balance whose fruits comprise the upper village’s in-store

ideas. Because we were already successfully representing Jewelmer in

Jewelmer boutique. Here you have a destination treasure chest stuffed

Montecito, opening the first Jewelmer boutique in America seemed to

with the carefully curated riches of land and sea, including a variety of

be the right thing to do. It was a gift from God.”

stunning golden pearl gems that’ll reshuffle your chakras.

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REEF MADNESS

PINCTADA MAXIMA: FABERGÉ EGG OF THE SEA

he Pinctada Maxima oyster is, contrary to its Roman Imperial title, a fragile thing. Its more colloquial name – the Gold-Lipped

Oyster – conveys more accurately the Zsa-Zsa Gabor eccentricity of this likable and rare South Sea mollusk. It lives in the ocean – cradle of all Earthly life, after all – but like a gourmand surrounded by Tater Tots®, the Pinctada Maxima fussily eats only 10 or so of the 400 varieties of protozoa that drift (quite calmly, we can suppose) through its neighborhood. It seems fitting that so delicate a creature should produce as rare a gem as the South Sea Golden Pearl. Each pearl takes five years to cultivate, at which time it is as gently removed as a billionaire’s wisdom tooth, each Gold-Lipped Oyster laid carefully back in its aquatic boudoir, new pearl seedlings already fomenting the next round of breath-stealing beauty.

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REEF MADNESS

Add the fact that very slight changes in the ocean’s pH balance or temperature can send the Pinctada Maxima to Oyster Hereafter – and one gets a sense of the scale of Jewelmer’s ongoing environmental achievement, to say nothing of the economic and social resuscitation of Palawan Island itself through the efforts of Messrs. Cojuangco and Branellec, and their families. And now Montecito’s own Glenn Espig oversees their U.S. storefront presence in tony Palm Beach. This is a happily complicated world, made better where people with resources and vision determine to make it so. Glenn among them. “It’s a wonderful partnership,” Glenn says, “and it’s an amazing thing for me to be able to share my knowledge and the Jewelmer story – and to play a part in doing this work for the globe.”

OLIVER AND ESPIG GALLERY OF FINE ARTS (805) 962-8111 | 1482 East Valley Road, Suite 50, Montecito, CA 93108

Aiana Espig & Marcia Ribeiro photo by Edward Clynes

| 151

CURIOUS TRAVELER by Jerry Camarillo Dunn, Jr.

OLD QUÉBEC LIKE FRANCE, BUT CLOSER! A TRAVELOGUE

’m in eastern Canada, where people speak French (and I don’t). Join me, s’il vous plaît, on a petit tour du Vieux-Québec. (Thank you, Google Translate.) Old Québec is an almost ridiculously romantic place. It looks more

French than France. That castle-looking building on high is the world-famous Le Château Frontenac hotel, built during the 19th-century Romantic movement that was inspired by the Renaissance and Middle Ages.

152 |

CURIOUS TRAVELER

Architect Bruce Price dreamed up a design both elegant and refined.

Before arriving, I had done a background check on Old Québec.

(Not incidentally, he was the father of American etiquette expert

Its name sounds quintessentially French but actually comes from a

Emily Post.)

Native word, “kebec,” which means “narrowing of the river.” (French

Commercially speaking, the grand hotel was intended to attract railroad passengers for luxury stopovers.

Canadians are much nicer than Parisians when you make a hash of their language, but here’s a tip: The first syllable of Québec is pronounced like “kay” in “Okay.”)

Québec dates back more than 400 years to a settlement founded by Samuel de Champlain. (Amazingly, this French navigator, cartographer, soldier, and diplomat made as many as 29 Atlantic crossings – in the early 1600s!) He struck a deal with the local Algonquin people that allowed him to build a small fort and trading post. This tiny enterprise was the seed of New France. Today the site of Champlain’s settlement is occupied by the houses and shops of Place Royale. On the very spot where the city began stands Notre-Dame-des-Victoires, the oldest stone church in North Today the Château Frontenac is said to be the most photographed hotel in the world. My wife, Merry, and I dutifully did our part.

America, built in 1688. This general area is known as the Lower Town, because it’s down below the Upper Town (doh!). Just as Paris lies on the Seine, Old Québec lies on the St. Lawrence River. This historic waterway,

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Serene Montecito Compound 3 Be d ro o m / 2.5 Bath / 4-Fl a t A cres wit h Hor se Fa cil it ies / $ 7,995 ,000

S A L LY H A N S E T H 805.570.4229 Âˇ hanseth1410 @ gmail.com CalRE#00902225 COLDWELL BANKER RESIDENTIAL BROKERAGE The property information herein is derived from various sources that may include, but not be limited to, county records and the Multiple Listing Service, and it may include approximations. Although the information is believed to be accurate, it is not warranted and you should not rely upon it without personal verification. Real estate agents affiliated with Coldwell Banker Residential Brokerage are independent contractor agents and are not employees of the Company. ÂŠ2019 Coldwell Banker Residential Brokerage. All Rights Reserved. Coldwell Banker Residential Brokerage fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Owned by a subsidiary of NRT LLC. Coldwell Banker, the Coldwell Banker Logo, Coldwell Banker Global Luxury and the Coldwell Banker Global Luxury logo service marks are registered or pending registrations owned by Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC.

CURIOUS TRAVELER

Right. Or maybe it’s just a really funny idea.

THAT PIECE, by artist Brandon Vickerd, prompted us to seek out more Canadian creativity. At Québec’s Museum of Fine Arts, we discovered Jean Paul Lemieux’s masterful minimalist painting, The Express Train (1968).

sparkling in summer, choked by ice in winter, was a navigation route for early explorers like Jacques Cartier in 1535 – as, of course, we all remember (?) from sixth-grade geography. French charm surrounded us everywhere, especially in the Quartier Petit Champlain, the heart of the Lower Town. But not everything in Old Québec is Old World. On a leafy street we came across a piece of contemporary public art.

Exploring the museum, we saw that snow and ice are common themes in this far northern land. One example: the Inuit art collection. Our favorite sculpture was a polar bear standing on its own reflection in the ice.

A replica of the Canadian satellite Alouette appeared to have

In the end,

crash-landed on a parked sedan. A placard said that the piece is “a

we came to see

metaphor for the unfulfilled promise of scientific advancement once

Old Québec itself

heralded by modernism” and that the satellite “evokes a modern-day

as a work of art,

Icarus whose blind faith in technology led to his swift demise, sending

particularly in the

him falling back to earth.”

rain.

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CURIOUS TRAVELER

Canadian and contemporary, with more than one hundred restaurants. Whenever we dined out, our language skills served us well. Waiter: “Madame has ordered a stuffed couch. Oui?” Our first goal was to try a Québecois specialty called poutine: French fries, cheese curds, and hot gravy. A local resident, raising her eyebrows, had warned us: “Poutine is like something you eat when you’re drunk, at three in the morning!” But we discovered that Old Québec offers less artery-clogging At night, the town lights itself up in an imaginative way.

variations. At an innovative fast-food spot called Le

A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE, Old Québec is the only

Chic Shack, we ordered

walled city north of Mexico. Nearly three miles of stone ramparts

Poutine Forestière, made

surround the historic core and separate it from larger, newer Québec

with roasted Yukon Gold

City. The walls are pierced by strategically placed gates.

potatoes, wild mushroom ragout, parmesan, shallots, cheese curds, and fresh herbs. A knockout for about $10 American. I also ordered a salted maple caramel milkshake. Like some Jekyll and Hyde character, I transformed into one of those pitiable creatures who take pictures of their food. Another regional dish, Pouding chômeur or “poor man’s pudding”

During the 18th century, the English and French fought over this

(literally, “unemployed pudding”), isn’t actually pudding. It is white

part of the New World. Although the Brits won the territory in 1759,

cake layered with cream and brown sugar sauce and baked. Mine was

the French carried the day in important ways – language, culture, and

accompanied with vanilla ice cream, thus including all the healthy major

cuisine. (Otherwise, Québec restaurants today would be serving kippers

food groups.

and mushy peas.) Old Québec is now a top destination for great food, both French

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Omnivores in Old Québec can try exotic meats from local livestock farmers, including boar, caribou, and even emu. Being

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CURIOUS TRAVELER

vegetarian/pescatarian types, we welcomed Québec’s wild salmon and

We also spotted a talented caricature artist working the sidewalk.

organic vegetables, creatively presented at fine restaurants such as Legende and Chez Muffy. At contemporary Chez Boulay we split two entrees: Atlantic cod poached in vermouth, and pearl barley croquette with herbs – both accompanied by green vegetables with sweetgale (a bog shrub with fragrant leaves), pea purée, and sauce vierge (olive oil, lemon juice, chopped tomato, and basil). Shamelessly, we mopped up the sauce with pieces of French bread. “Your plate,” Merry observed at the end, “looks like it had no food on it, ever.” Dessert was a profiterole ball with caramel, spice ice cream, and maple. “I just want one bite,” Merry said before I ordered. “Let me write that down,” I replied, “and have you sign it.”

NOT SURPRISINGLY, given its cuisine, beauty, and historic

ONLY EIGHT MILES from town awaited a natural wonderland – Parc

charm, Québec City is a major tourist destination. The Upper

de la Chute-Montmorency, a waterfall that’s higher than Niagara by

Town’s main square, the Place d’Armes, was jammed during our visit,

more than one hundred feet. We walked above the thundering cataract

like Disneyland on a summer day. Over a long holiday weekend,

on a suspension bridge.

cruise ships disgorged an astonishing 56,000 passengers into the narrow streets. (Tip for travelers: Time your visit; summer and winter are busiest.) On the plus side, shops sell some excellent tourist tee shirts.

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GIANNETTI HOME

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CURIOUS TRAVELER

At the bottom, locals create fleeting graffiti using logs that spill over the falls.

Winter visitors to Old Québec can hurtle down a toboggan slide, 800 feet long and 200 feet high, near the Château Frontenac – turning the deep-freeze weather into fun. And in winter, experienced ice climbers find the cascade transformed into a mountain of frozen white.

Resolved: Merry and I will have to come back to Old Québec during snow season. February brings Winter Carnival, where we might visit an ice palace, watch canoes race across the frigid river, and skate amidst the twinkling magic of the old town.

In fact, winter is a huge deal in Old Québec. The Hôtel de Glace, made entirely of ice and snow, is the only one of its kind in North America. You can sip a cocktail in a bar at minus 5°C, sleep in a room made entirely of ice, and tie the knot in a frost-covered chapel. There’s even an ice crystal chandelier.

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CURIOUS TRAVELER

COMPASS POINTS

95 individually designed rooms and suites, some with river views. Spa,

STAY

Rooms CAN$259-489, suites CAN$560-1450.

yoga studio, Chez Muffy restaurant, archaeological artifacts displayed.

FAIRMONT LE CHÂTEAU FRONTENAC: 1 Rue des Carrières, (418) 692-3861, reservations (866) 540-4460, https://www.fairmont.

EAT

com/frontenac-quebec. In Upper Town, with 611 rooms and suites;

CHEZ MUFFY: 10 Rue Saint-Antoine, (418) 692-1022, www.saint-

famous guests from Queen Elizabeth to Paul McCartney. Spa, indoor

antoine.com/chez-muffy. Farm-to-fork restaurant where classical

pool, casual and gourmet dining. Rooms CAN$189-$599, suites

French meets Canadian cuisine in dishes such as caramelized Cipollini

CAN$450-$3,000.

tart, grass-fed ribeye, Gaspé Peninsula lobster. Occupies an 1822

In our tower room, my name was printed on the amenities bottles,

maritime warehouse.

making me feel like a prestige guest. On the TV’s welcome screen, I noticed that my name was slightly jumbled, but hey, I don’t speak French so good either.

LEGENDE: 255 Rue Saint-Paul, (418) 614-2555, http:// restaurantlegende.com/restaurant-legende-quebec-city. Boreal (northern) cuisine; tasting menu of creative small dishes (e.g., smoked In 1952, the Château Frontenac appeared as a looming noir

arctic char, seared venison, asparagus-carrot-goat cheese salad) with

presence in Alfred Hitchcock’s highly miss-able movie I Confess,

wine pairings. Cocktail menu features mix-and-match gins/vodkas and

starring Montgomery Clift and Anne Baxter. In one scene, the two stars

tonics.

meet on a dock below the hotel.

LE CHIC SHACK: 15 Rue du Fort, (418) 692-1485, lechicshack.ca/en.

To show the scale of the Château Frontenac, there are 7.5 miles of

Burgers, poutines, salads, shakes, homemade sodas.

corridors and nearly 2,000 windows. (A plus: All room windows open for

CHEZ BOULAY BISTRO: 1110 Rue Saint-Jean, (418) 380-8166,

fresh air.) The hotel hosted crucial wartime strategy meetings in 1943

chezboulay.com/en. Nordic cuisine – e.g., elk, trout, vegetables, with

and 1944 between Franklin D. Roosevelt, Winston Churchill, and the

such flavorings as elderberry flower, Labrador tea.

Canadian prime minister.

PAILLARD: 1097 Rue Saint-Jean, (418) 692-1221, https://www.paillard.

AUBERGE SAINT-ANTOINE: 8 Rue Saint-Antoine, (418) 692-2211,

ca. Marble-counter boulangerie, great for breakfast coffee and pastries;

www.saint-antoine.com. Artistic boutique hotel in the Lower Town;

try Fougasse (chewy bread stuffed with olives and feta).

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CURIOUS TRAVELER

homes. Outside town we visited Champignons Charlevoix;

GETTING THERE: Air Canada offers one-stop service to Québec

friendly mushroom wrangler Danielle Ricard showed us

City from Los Angeles.

how they grow oyster mushrooms (pleurotes in French) in

VISITOR INFORMATION: www.quebecregion.com/en. Visitor

a mixture of sawdust, coffee grounds, straw, and grain. We

center: 12 Rue Sainte-Anne.

bought packets of dried mushrooms to take home for pasta

MUSÉE NATIONAL DES BEAUX-ARTS DU QUÉBEC (Fine Arts

and soup.

Museum): 179 Grande Allée Ouest, (418) 643-2150, www.mnbaq.org. Historical, contemporary, Inuit, decorative arts.

That night we stayed at Le Manoir Richelieu, a grand 1929 hotel. With its décor of browns and dark wood, the hotel reminded me of a gentlemen’s club of the last century.

SIDE TRIP: CHARLEVOIX

Before breakfast I walked a trail through the woods. Fall

n the St. Lawrence River north of Québec City lies the

leaves lit the way, and below me the river rolled by – neatly

Charlevoix region, Canada’s first resort area, with fjords, maple

summing up the lovely, rugged Charlevoix region.

and birch forests, tidal flats, and bays. Its green valleys produce a gourmet’s dream of foods for agritourism, ranging from cheeses and

IF YOU GO

meats to a unique tomato wine (oddly, white).

TRAVEL INFORMATION: tourisme-charlevoix.com/en.

We drove an hour to our first stop, the tiny village of Baie-Saint-

Hôtel & Spa Le Germain Charlevoix: https://www.

Paul, with its arts and crafts galleries and cafés. (Recommended: Café

legermainhotels.com/en/charlevoix, (418) 240-4100.

des Artistes for La Grande Bleu pizza: bleu cheese, Grenoble walnuts,

Urban feel in the countryside. Spa, pools, in-house dining

spinach.) We overnighted at Hôtel & Spa Le Germain Charlevoix, a

(tip: book the breakfast package). Rooms and suites

striking collection of contemporary buildings set on farmland.

CAN$199-$445.

Then we headed to La Malbaie, a popular vacation spot since the 1800s, where Americans including President Howard Taft built summer

From mid-June through October, the adjacent depot is a stop for the tourist Train de Charlevoix (http:// traindecharlevoix.com), running from Québec City to La Malbaie. Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu (left): fairmont.com/ richelieu-charlevoix, (418) 665-3703. Elegant château hotel overlooking the St. Lawrence River, with 405 rooms and suites, 27-hole championship golf course, heated pools, casino, health club and spa, fine dining, winter sports and carriage rides. The G7 summit of world leaders was held here in 2018. Rooms and suites CAN$250-$2,000.

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Congratulations to Adam and Penny Bianchi on their return home after the devastating debris flow. Thank you to the talented team at Giffin & Crane, to Dan Seibert and to our wonderful clients for commissioning Grace Design Associates to restore your gardens.

The Art of Outdoor Living gracedesignassociates.com | (805) 687-3569

MASTERPIECE MAKERS BY HANA-LEE SEDGWICK

I T TA K E S A T E A M

hanks to its picturesque setting and sophisticated yet laid-back vibe, Montecito has become one of the most desirable places to live along the California coast. Behind the manicured hedges and grandiose gated

entrances lie hundreds of impressive mansions and stunning estates, adding to the allure of this beautiful seaside community. So, what does it take to make an architectural masterpiece? Simply put, it takes a team. Whether looking to rebuild, renovate, redecorate, add on, or start from scratch, there’s a wide range of talented architects, builders, interior designers, landscape designers, decorators, and stone and tile experts to choose from. We’re highlighting a few industry leaders who specialize in constructing, creating, and transforming homes into spectacular, inspiring and – maybe most importantly – livable spaces in which to enjoy for years to come. (This feature is paid content)

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MASTERPIECE MAKERS

AGOURA SASH & DOOR

or over 30 years, Agoura Sash & Door, Inc. has been serving homeowners, designers, builders, and contractors with quality windows, doors, and finish materials throughout Los Angeles,

Ventura, and Santa Barbara counties. Known for building and maintaining lasting relationships with clients and customers, Agoura Sash & Door strives for excellence in service, support, and customer satisfaction. Their team of experienced sales consultant specialists seeks to continually provide hassle-free service and technical guidance to ensure each customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s individual needs are met, time and time again. The Agoura Sash & Door design center is located in Westlake Village, California, offering over 12,000 square feet of complete displays and products from quality manufacturers of windows, doors, and home hardware. As one of the largest design showrooms in Southern California, featuring everything from top-of-the-line products to value-priced offerings, Agoura Sash & Door aims to be a go-to place for homeowners and developers to successfully transform a house into a home. More information can be found at www.agourasash.com.

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MASTERPIECE MAKERS

GRACE DESIGN ASSOCIATES

race Design Associates is a landscape design-build firm based in Montecito, specializing in what they refer to as “The Art of Outdoor Living.” Founded by Margie Grace in 2000, the company has

designed and built over 350 projects throughout California and the western states. In 2018, Grace was named Designer of the Year by the Association of Professional Landscape Designers (APLD) – the most prestigious honor in her field. “Comfortable, elegant, inviting outdoor spaces and gardens draw people beyond the walls of their home,” says Grace. “The ultimate Santa Barbara lifestyle – a seamless connection between indoors and out, with outdoor spaces that can be enjoyed any time of day, any time of year – is what ‘The Art of Outdoor Living’ is all about.” Grace’s designs are an artful synthesis of the unique character of the land and the practical needs of the people who use it. Projects range from intimate gardens to large estates and run the gamut from naturalistic to bold and urban in every design style – traditional to contemporary, romantic to whimsical, restrained to unapologetically exuberant. Visit Grace Design Associates’ blog, The Art of Outdoor Living, for ideas and inspiration for simple, elegant outdoor living. Grace’s first book, Private Santa Barbara Gardens, is due out in Spring 2020. More information can be found at www.gracedesignassociates.com and www.theartofoutdoorliving.com. (Photos by Holly Lepere)

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2176 EAST VALLEY ROAD, MONTECITO $1,495,000 JOSIAH HAMILTON (805) 284-8835 Josiah@TheHamiltonCo.com www.TheHamiltonCo.com

Top 1% Berkshire Hathaway Nationwide 5th Generation Santa Barbara Real Estate Co-Founder Santa Barbara Bucket Brigade

Â© 2019 Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices California Properties (BHHSCP) is a member of the franchise system of BHH Affiliates LLC. BHH Affiliates LLC and BHHSCP do not guarantee accuracy of all data including measurements, conditions, and features of property. Information is obtained from various sources and will not be verified by broker or MLS. Buyer is advised to independently verify the accuracy of that information.

MASTERPIECE MAKERS

ANN JAMES INTERIOR DESIGN

nn James is a custom interior designer residing in Santa Barbara, with over thirty-five years of experience creating exceptional homes.

Ann uses her design skills and extensive knowledge of industry

resources to create warm, livable spaces that are as diverse as her clients. “I believe designing a home should always be a collaborative endeavor between the client and the designer,” says Ann. “My goal is to design unique homes that reflect the individual tastes and lifestyles of the people that live in them.” Ranging from the latest in contemporary design to more traditional interiors, Ann shares that her sophisticated sense of style and keen attention to detail are what allow her to transform homes into timeless spaces that are beautiful, distinctive, and inviting. “Combining style, comfort, and appropriateness in beautiful personalized environments is the ultimate reward.” More information can be found at www.annjamesinteriors.com.

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MASTERPIECE MAKERS

M E N E L L I T I L E & S TO N E

enelli Tile & Stone is a family-owned business with decades of experience working with tile and stone. Based in Montecito, Menelli Tile & Stone offers a curated selection of

design materials, including quartz – such as Caesarstone, Cambria, Pental, and Silestone for kitchens and baths – and French limestone, hardwood flooring and porcelain “wood” tiles, marble, mosaic, and custom tile. “Our clients are mostly architects, designers, contractors, and homeowners,” says Jeff Menelli, owner. “They expect great craftsmanship at a fair price with timely installation and that’s what we do.” Their Montecito retail store and trade showroom on Coast Village Road offers a wide variety of design elements for the home, estate, and commercial projects. “Our showroom features design materials for any interior and our outdoor courtyard features a map of various stones and terra-cotta options so people can see and touch something they’ll be living with,” shares Menelli. “We also have fountains, terraces, and fireplaces for outdoor living. Our staff is super knowledgeable and we all take pride in our work and contribution to our community.” photos by Jim Bartsch

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More information can be found at www.menellitileandstone.com.

MASTERPIECE MAKERS

BROWN DESIGN GROUP

stablished in 1998, Brown Design Group is a residential and commercial interior design firm with offices in Los Angeles and Santa Barbara. Led by Ryan Brown and Diego Monchamp, experienced real estate developers and

designers, Brown Design Group is focused on creating stylish, organic, and contemporary spaces that draw inspiration from the California lifestyle. “Brown Design Group embodies thoughtful design by living in a way that rejuvenates and inspires us,” says Brown. “We pride ourselves on being well versed with an array of architectural principles and approach each space with an understanding that design leaves a lasting mark.” With experience in full-scale building and design, Brown Design Group uses what they refer to as “daring eclecticism” to create warm and approachable spaces, combining rustic elements with modern, clean lines. They design custom furnishings, amenities, and fixtures, and source from within the industry and throughout Europe and South America. Adds Brown, “Our passion for creating stylish, contemporary spaces is matched by the efficiency and creativity we bring to every project.” photos by Matt Wier

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More information can be found at www.browndesigninc.com.

Allow us to put our combined 214 years of expertise to use in supporting your goals. Our team of highly experienced independent professionals can help answer your questions or direct you to those who can. We look forward to being of service. JANET CAMINITE

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M C K E A N CO N S T R U C T I O N

or more than twenty years, McKean Construction has been creating custom homes, remodels, and home additions throughout Santa Barbara County. Built on a foundation

of honesty, integrity, and respect, McKean Construction has earned a reputation for approaching each project with a keen eye for detail and mindfulness of budget to bring every idea and vision to fruition. Owner Aaron McKean, who has over 34 years of industry experience, takes pride in continually going above and beyond to deliver in quality and customer satisfaction. “Our passionate team of skilled carpenters, along with our close relationships with vendors and subcontractors in our area, are the keys to our success,” says McKean. “We’ve been able to build on our stellar reputation by over-delivering in quality and affordability.” Specializing in building and remodeling in all styles of architecture, including Cape Cod, Victorian, Spanish, and Contemporary, McKean has worked on homes throughout Cape Cod, San Francisco, and Santa Barbara County. The company has been featured in Design LA, Dwell Magazine, Residential Design Magazine, and The Architect Tours of 2012 of Santa Barbara. Aaron McKean has also served on the Board of Directors for the Santa Barbara Contractors Association. photos by Jessica Dalene Photography

More information can be found at www.mckeanconstruction.net.

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LEONARD UNANDER A S S O C I AT E S, I N C .

eonard Unander Associates, Inc. (LUA) is a custom home builder, founded by Leonard Unander Sr. in 1977. The Unander family has been building in Santa Barbara for four generations. Specializing in residential construction

only, LUA offers full-service construction from preconstruction through the complete building process. As a family-owned and operated firm, Unander reveals that the key to their success is working closely and openly with clients and every member of the project team. “Our focus on teamwork, communication, and integrity are essential for creating the best possible outcome for each project,” shares Unander. “Our goal is always to provide a custom home building experience that exceeds the expectations of our clients, using our attention to detail and meticulous organization skills to transform vision and design into reality.” By committing to high standards of quality and craftsmanship, and working with clients to come up with innovative ways to problem solve without breaking the budget, LUA seeks to ensure that the building process is an enjoyable experience for each and every client. Visit their website to view virtual tours of completed projects and to stay up to date on existing works in process. More information can be found at www.unanderconstruction.com.

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MASTERPIECE MAKERS

YO U N G CO N S T R U C T I O N

oung Construction was founded in 1978 by brothers Dave and Bob Young. For over forty years, Young Construction has remained dedicated

to building quality commercial and residential buildings throughout Santa Barbara County. Committed to providing clients with the best possible building process from start to finish, Young Construction says they approach each project with a detailed eye and willingness to find the most cost-effective building solutions. “Our comprehensive approach ensures functional quality design and compliance with budgets and schedules to continually exceed client expectations,” shares Bob Young. “Our personal involvement in each project, along with the dedication of our highly skilled team and industry leading trade partners, allow Young Construction to produce award-winning homes and buildings for our clients.” Young Construction has been featured in Architectural Digest, Sunset Magazine, Angeleno, and Luxe Interiors + Design. More information can be found at www.youngconst.com.

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photos by Jim Bartsch and Jon Sorrell

PORTICO FINE ART GALLERY

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G I F F I N R E N TA L & S A L E S

stablished in 1929, Giffin Rental is the oldest continuously operating business in Goleta Valley, offering a one-stop destination for buying, selling, and renting of construction equipment and contractor supplies. A certified woman-owned small business, Giffin Rental is owned by Amanda Twining, who along with her experienced sales team, have helped make Giffin a go-to spot for new and used building equipment for 90 years and counting. Backed by their commitment to providing honest, quality service, “Giffin

is also 100% dedicated to supporting the Santa Barbara County community,” shares Twining. After donating their full inventory of equipment to aid in the clean-up of the Montecito mudslide of 2018, Giffin Rental has continued to help the Montecito community with donations to the Bucket Brigade and other volunteer groups to assist in their efforts to restore and rebuild. “Giffin has been a fixture in the area for over ninety years and we’re proud to call this place our home,” says Amanda. “Our goal has always been to be a valuable resource to the people around us, whether that means offering the best equipment at the best price or thinking beyond sales to make a difference to our community.”

More information can be found at www.giffinrental.com.

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What Happens After a Disaster? Response needs are met in minutes. Relief needs are met in hours. Recovery takes years. And preparedness is needed every day. The Santa Barbara Bucket Brigade is dedicated to helping neighborhoods prepare for and recover from natural disasters and community crisis

What your support dollars do:

• Enable communities to take responsibility for their own recovery • Empower local leaders who know what’s best for their community • Assist neighbors helping neighbors Santa Barbara Bucket Brigade By The Numbers: 3000+ Volunteers 1000+ Donors 100+ Structures Cleaned 100+ Acres Cleared 500+ Trees Saved 10 Trails and Walkways Restored 1 New Public Pathway Installed 12+ Community Partnerships and Workforce Initiatives 13 Awards including The California Non-Profit of the Year New North Jameson Lane Walking Trail connecting businesses, schools and community. (photo by Macduff Everton).

Please consider a donation to the Santa Barbara Bucket Brigade www.sbbucketbrigade.org Follow us @SantaBarbaraBucketBrigade All donations are tax-deductible as allowed by law 501(c)(3).

OFF THE

COAST BY NATASHA BENJAMIN

OUR OCEAN BACKYARD

MAREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Executive Director Dirk Rosen and a humpback whale

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isitors from all over the world are captivated and inspired by Santa Barbara’s coastlines. Yet there is an even richer, more vibrant landscape lying just beneath those mesmerizing ocean

waves. Eleven miles off our coast, beyond the Santa Barbara Channel, lies California’s Galapagos, a breathtaking chain of islands that brings together a rare convergence of warm and cold currents creating some of the most productive waters in the world teeming with life. Towering kelp forests are home to over 1,000 species of animals and plants down to the deeper rocky reefs that explode with marine critters from elusive sharks to the endangered giant black sea bass. The ocean is our last great frontier, with less than 3% of it explored. We know more about Mars than about our deep sea. Right here, in our ocean backyard, a team of deep sea scientists, engineers, and explorers are on a mission to change that. Marine Applied Research and Exploration (MARE) was founded 15 years ago to explore beyond where researchers had gone before. MARE began this journey around the Channel Islands in 2003, and has returned at regular intervals to see how the deep sea environment is changing and adapting over time. A trip out to the islands is a remarkable experience – a true marine mammal and seabird extravaganza, including noisy sea lions lounging on buoys, and pods of dolphins dancing in the bow wave. The waters around the islands are known for unforgettable encounters with whales including breaching humpbacks and blue whales – the largest animal ever known to live on Earth. Recognizing a need to take action to preserve one of our state’s most precious resources, California implemented a network of marine protected areas (MPAs) in 1999 to protect small areas along the coast from fishing. MARE was able to illustrate the utility of MPAs through regular monitoring over time. In waters around the Channel Islands, MARE documented a 270% increase in fish populations inside and outside protected

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areas after 12 years of protection. This kind of success helps promote similar conservation efforts around the world. The MARE Deep Sea Team also explored some of the Channel Islands’ deep sea corals, which are threatened by bottom trawl fishing. These corals can live hundreds, even thousands of years, and are found at depths devoid of sunlight. Unlike their shallow water cousins Strawberry anemones with copper rockfish and vermillion rockfish

(that use sunlight to produce photosynthetic food), they feed on the constant flow of nutrients raining down to the seafloor. These coral gardens are the “old growth forests” of the sea and are critical for many fish populations. In partnership with the Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary, MARE deploys robotic submarines to map where these deep sea coral gardens exist – before they are lost forever by bottom trawl fishing nets. Collecting this critical data and navigating the depths and currents along the California coast is no small feat. First, equipment is loaded aboard a research ship; this includes the 600-pound Beagle submarine, a 1,000-meter fiber optic umbilical control system with video and data

Giant Pacific octopus in a deep sea coral garden

monitors, and geo-positioning systems. The operational team is led by a remotely operated vehicle (ROV) pilot who is seated inside the cabin

NOAA’s research vessel Shearwater with the Channel Islands in the background 186 |

of the boat with eyes glued to a set of screens and hands on a remote control to maneuver the vehicle thousands of feet below the surface. The robotic submarine uses an array of cameras, sonars, and sensors to navigate the seafloor. This technology allows MARE to access areas that have never been seen, and every time the team dives to the seafloor they see something new. Rick Botman, MARE’s Operations Engineer, navigating the ROV during deep sea expedition

The vibrant marine life around the Channel Islands is home to some of the most astounding collections of marine life on the planet. As the islands continually change in response to natural conditions and human impacts, our understanding of stewardship of this resource must also respond. By putting valuable, actionable information into the hands of those who are able to make a positive impact on the Dirk Rosen, MARE’s Executive Director, waiting to deploy ROV while a humpback whale visits the research ship

health of the Channel, MARE brings critical information and imagery to light, illuminating the deep sea. This data provides a critical reference point for conservation efforts, demonstrating what can be done along the California coast and beyond to protect the ocean for

us and for future generations. ••• MARE Founder and Director Dirk Rosen (who signs his letters “Best Fishes”) reminds us that he and his group will be holding an Open

House on Saturday, June 29 from 1 to 4 pm at 1230 Brickyard Cove Road # 101 in Point Richmond, California, where you can pilot the ROV. For more information go to: www.maregroup.org

Giant sea bass that are listed as critically endangered can live up to 70 years and grow seven feet in length

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Natasha Benjamin, MARE’s Policy and Outreach Director, with Beagle ROV rated to 1,000 meters

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REAL ESTATES

BY KELLY MAHAN HERRICK

ontecito, with its sleepy semi-rural landscape, tepid microclimate, and ideal location relatively close to Los Angeles, is the perfect backdrop for quiet, sophisticated living. Here we present

a smattering of gorgeous estates and homes in Montecito and beyond, including a romantic estate in the heart of Riven Rock, a Mediterranean masterpiece on Lilac Drive, Caâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; di Sopra on Cold Spring Road, and other magical properties on Santa Barbaraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Riviera, the San Marcos foothills, and in the expansive Santa Ynez Valley. (This feature is paid content)

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RISKIN PARTNERS m o n t e c i t o â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s t o p p r o d u c i n g r e a l e s t a t e t e a m M O N T E C I T O V I E W E S T A T E . C O M

DINA LANDI

SARAH HANACEK

cal dre 01206734

JASMINE TENNIS

ROBERT RISKIN

cal dre 01815307

REAL ESTATES ARCHITECTURAL M A S T E R P I EC E

ontecito conjures images of verdant foothills gracefully reaching to the coastal plains and beaches, peppered with historic

architectural estates, each enveloped by pristine lush gardens of mature trees, family orchards, and abundant cutting gardens to supply their occupants with a continuous supply of fresh flowers. When the famous Swift family arrived from Chicago in the early 1920s, they acquired 1,500 acres in Montecito from which they selected the ideal setting to create their fabulous Serrania Estate. Now commanding an unobstructed panorama of ocean and island views from nearly four very private acres, the original design by the respected Soule Hastings architects has been masterfully restored and designed by John Saladino, sparing no expense for quality and taste and with reverence and respect for a true Montecito treasure. Entering the gates one encounters a magical world of quintessential Montecito gardens with a veritable compound of the main residence, private guest house, large swimming pool and spa, north/south tennis court with cabana, a free-standing “Tree House” playhouse for little ones, a detached media/game room, office, gym, plus a barn with studio and another guest suite. Such an offering is rarely available in a community where few remain and their owners are loath to give them up.

895 Buena Vista Drive is listed for $22,500,000 by Randy and Deanna Solakian of Coldwell Banker

photos by Gavin Carter

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Montecito & Santa Barbara Real Estate

SantaBarbaraBrokers.com

REAL ESTATES H I S TO R I C R I V E N R O C K

iven Rock is an enclave consisting of extraordinary properties known for noteworthy architecture, lush

landscaping, and rich history. This impeccable home on 1.90 acres in the heart of Riven Rock embraces the romance of Santa Barbara’s past with its red-tile roof and mature oaks, and celebrates the present with its refined contemporary design. Most rooms share stunning vistas of the colorful gardens with a backdrop of gorgeous ocean and island views that enhance the casual indoor/outdoor lifestyle of this coastal community. Fumed French Oak flooring, custom cabinetry, Riviera Bronze doors and windows, and an oversized marble island in the chef’s kitchen are some of the extraordinary finish details of this tranquil four-bedroom haven. A wonderfully designed main level master suite combines the comfort of luxury with the decadence of a secluded terrace for lounging. Stroll along paths by rock-lined flowerbeds of camellias, roses, plum colored hydrangeas, wisteria, and warm sunset hues of bougainvillea in gardens, which envelop the home. Experience the peaceful ambiance of a Mediterranean setting for alfresco dining under a canopy of majestic oaks and relax on sunny terraces complemented by a pool, spa, barbecue, and bocce court. Beautiful stone terraced gardens are planted in varieties of vegetables, herbs, and fruit trees, which provide an abundance of homegrown produce.

760 Riven Rock Road is offered for $8,750,000 by Susan Burns, Janice McGlashan, Dana Zertuche, and Lori Bowles, all of Coldwell Banker Residential Brokerage

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photos by Todd Goodman

U NAN DER C ONSTRUCTION.COM PRE-CONSTRUCTION, PROJECT MANAGEMENT, CUSTOM HOMEBUILDING & REMODELING

REAL ESTATES A YO U T H F U L S P I R I T LIVES HERE

rafted from a singular vision, Ca’ di Sopra (meaning “House Above the Clouds”) is a modern day heirloom estate embracing the style,

design, and romance of the “Golden Age” of architecture from the early 1900s. Architectural pedigree and authenticity marry graciously with modern sensibility and luxe amenities for living the much sought-after California way of life. With a nod to the past and a step into the present, this revitalized Mediterranean residence, located on a prominent lane of world class estates, stands alone as an enviable property on over six ocean-view acres. The intimate main level is anchored by a central atrium in the heart of the home, surrounded by a sumptuous master suite, two additional bedrooms, formal dining room, gourmet kitchen, and living and family rooms all

opening to the outdoors. The lower level embraces the essence of indoor-outdoor living, with four spacious bedrooms, a game room, home theatre, wine cellar, tasting room, and a second family room with French doors opening to numerous ocean-view patios and entertaining terraces. Ca’ di Sopra is not just a home, but a lifestyle.

1050 Cold Spring Road is offered at $11,950,000; listed by Nancy Kogevinas of Berkshire Hathaway Home Services and Susan Burns of Coldwell Banker Residential Brokerage

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photos by Jim Bartsch and Eric Foote

REAL ESTATES S T E E P E D I N H I S TO RY

his exquisite and deeply historic property is being offered for the first time in 25 years: known as El Hogar, this was the first home designed by famed architect

George Washington Smith for his own personal residence and studio. This 1918 home sits on .66 acre, has six bedrooms, four and a half bathrooms, and eight fireplaces. The living room includes classic G. W. Smith features including the original terracotta floor tiles from Tunisia, large timbered beams, and arched French doors that open to the garden and terrace. The family room, which began as Smith’s personal art studio, includes a vaulted two-story ceiling, an enormous multi-pane north-facing window, French doors, and fireplace. The home is perfect for entertaining, with a large living room, family room, dining room, and master suite all opening to the stunning Smith-designed gardens, complete with pool, patio, and dramatic mountain views. The lush grounds include beautiful specimens and fruit trees, benches covered in vintage glazed tile, boxwood hedges, roses, and large brick patio with a lovely central fountain. Between 1918 and his death in 1930, Smith designed over 60 residential and nonresidential structures in Santa Barbara and Montecito. Architectural historians have continued to cite this residence as a standard by which the best work of the 1920s Spanish Revival style can be judged. This residence was, and is, appreciated as a work of art, resulting in decades of projects that came to define the architecture of Santa Barbara. Not a mere copyist of earlier styles, Smith’s attention to detail, ability to fuse modern needs with ancient styles, and his own original touches made him a master of revival architecture. This is an incredible opportunity to own a quintessential Montecito

estate, which is conveniently located close to Montecito’s lower village shops, restaurants, and beaches. 240 Middle Road is offered for $4,925,000 by Sally Hanseth of Coldwell Banker

photos by Jim Bartsch and Matt Walla/Appleton Partners LLP-Architects

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Luxury Estates Represented and Sold By

Sandy Lipowski SandyOnTheBeach.com

For Lease

Hope Ranch 8+/-Acre Estate | $45,000 Per Month

New Listing

Riven Rock Opportunity | Offered at $2,995,000

Just Sold

Montecito Ocean Estate | Offered at $8,900,00

Coming Soon

Majestic Montecito Oceanview Masterpiece | Price Upon Request

Just Sold

Hope Ranch “Tara” Estate | Offered at $7,900,000

Yo u r Pe r s o n a l R e a l E s t a t e Ne g o t i a t o r Representing Exquisite Estates & Clients Call Me for an Introduction

Sandy Lipowski

sandy.lipowski@sothebyshomes.com 805.403.3844 | SandyOnTheBeach.com Sotheby’s International Realty and the Sotheby’s International Realty logo are registered (or unregistered) service marks used with permission. Operated by Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. Real estate agents affiliated with Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. are independent contractor sales associates and are not employees of Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. Equal Housing Opportunity. Sandy Lipowski DRE: 1355215

Montecito - Upper Village Brokerage 1482 East Valley Rd. Suite #44, Montecito | sothebyshomes.com/santabarbara

REAL ESTATES S A N M A R CO S PRESERVE

oming soon to the Santa Barbara foothills: the San Marcos Preserve,

an enclave comprised of 14 luxury estates on three- to twenty-seven acre homesites, each

5 min. Walk

with the design sophistication and personal expression of a fully custom residence.

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400

600

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1000

1400'

1" = 200' at 24" x 36"

SA N M A RCOS PRESERV E ÂŠ 2018 H A RT HOW ERTON. The designs and concepts shown are the sole property of Hart Howerton. The drawings may not be used except with the expressed written consent of Hart Howerton.

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February 14, 2019

Each estate within San Marcos Preserve has been strategically positioned to maximize views while emphasizing its intimate and immediate relationship to the natural world. Each estate not only reflects a high level of individuality, but an enhanced stewardship of the land as it seeks to seamlessly integrate into the natural landscape and surrounding terrain with as little disruption as possible. The property is being developed by the renowned Chadmar Group, with the homes designed by famed California architect Mark Scheurer. The Preserve is maintained by Channel Islands Restoration, a non-profit organization dedicated to its stewardship, and offers extraordinary views of the Santa Ynez Mountains, Pacific

Ocean, and distant Channel Islands. There are walking trails that meander along ridgelines, rise up over the hills, and lead to beautiful vistas, where light and shadow play, ensuring no two days are ever alike.

San Marcos Preserve is exclusively represented by the Bartron Real Estate Group of Berkshire Hathaway Home Services; homes are offered from the low $3M mark

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REAL ESTATES E A S T VA L L E Y E L EG A N C E

deally located in the heart of Montecitoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Golden Quadrangle sits this elegant contemporary Mediterranean estate on 1.26 acres of lushly

landscaped grounds. The natural beauty begins to unfold as you arrive through the private gates to a grand circular drive. Once inside, the elegant formal entry immediately allows your eye to travel outside to the glistening pool, private back patios and gardens beyond. The expansive formal living room with vaulted ceilings and dramatic full-scale windows opens to formal dining room, which is ideal for entertaining. The well-appointed kitchen is the true heart of the home with center island, breakfast area, Viking stove, and generous butlerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pantry. Adjoining the gourmet kitchen, recently remodeled in 2019, is a spacious family room with dramatic vaulted ceilings, walls of glass and an impressive fireplace that anchors the room. Glass doors lead to the pool and terrace where all daydreams await offering a seamless indoor/ outdoor lifestyle. The spectacular ground level master suite is a perfect respite from the busy world. Read by the fire or relax in the soaking tub of the 2019 remodeled master bath, which opens to its very own spa. The large upstairs office/game room offers vaulted beamed ceilings, versatility, and refined comfort. Additionally, there are two bedrooms, each with their own bath. The fourth bedroom is ideal for guests, looking out to the pool, patios, and verdant grounds. Soak in the ever-evolving lifestyle that exemplifies Montecito by taking a stroll through the bountiful gardens, towering trees, and mature fruit-bearing orchard. Walled and gated for privacy, there is also a spacious 3-car garage with generous motor court offering lots of additional parking.

Team Scarborough of Berkshire Hathaway Home Services

offers 1428 East Valley Road for $3,995,000

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Photos by Jason Rick

REAL ESTATES RICHLY HISTORIC 4,600-ACRE SANTA YNEZ RANCH

acking up to the Los Padres National Forest, Latigo Estate was one of the original Spanish land grants, La Laguna, given to Soldier Don

Octavio Gutierrez in the early 1800s; it has only been owned by a select few since. This gorgeous plot of earth is considered an environmental

treasure. The 4,600+ sprawling acres have been cultivated into a sanctuary, away from the public eye, into a world all its own. The 13,000+ square foot main residence offers everything from a movie theatre, expansive wine cellar, library, and six spacious bedrooms all with en-suite bathrooms. The master bedroom, complete with dual bathrooms and walk-in closets, has its own private outdoor balcony situated perfectly to take in the surrounding mountain views. The large patio area off of the home features an outdoor fireplace with sitting area, a gorgeous pool adorned with boulders for diving, and plenty of entertaining spaces. The property offers several accessory buildings from a three-bedroom, two-bathroom guesthouse and a large workmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s garage, to one-of-a-kind equestrian facilities with a 10,000+ square foot barn, several grazing paddocks, an oversized arena and fieldstone watering pools. Also on the property is a separate workout studio, four-car garage, a picturesque tennis court, and helipad for easy travel. With two private wells and water cisterns included in the acreage, there is ample water for all improvements and livestock. This vast parcel of land is ideal for the future wine maker or anyone looking to own a piece of history and enjoy the peacefulness and privacy that this ranch has to offer.

3420 Brinkerhoff Avenue is offered for $29,750,000 by Kerry Mormann of Berkshire Hathaway Home Services

Photos by Eric Foote

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REAL ESTATES LIFE ON THE AMERICAN RIVIERA

ust minutes from Montecito, on Santa Barbara’s famed Riviera, sits a prestigious estate on Loma

Media, where the ocean, island, harbor, and city views are truly breathtaking. With a modern Spanish design, the four-bedroom main house boasts high vaulted ceilings, plentiful windows, and several outdoor verandas on which to watch the swell arrive. An additional two-bedroom guesthouse is the perfect opportunity for dual living. Set on a fully landscaped .65 acre, the home’s vistas allow its owners to marvel at the multi-colored masts that speed across the Pacific on “Wet Wednesdays.” Enjoy the sparkling vistas of the city as the sunlight dances off the buildings. Located on a prestigious point on America’s Riviera, 108 Loma Media is ready for the Lover of Life.

Troy G Hoidal of Santa Barbara Brokers offers this estate for $3,685,000

Photos by Eric Foote

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REAL ESTATES B U I L D YO U R D R E A M H O M E

ust south of Montecito, this incredible nine-acre level parcel in the gated and exclusive Rancho Monte Alegre offers expansive ocean

and mountain views. A proposed house and barn have been designed by Shubin + Donaldson, with the building pad for the primary residence and for the barn having been cleared and designated. A new 50-gallonper-minute well has been installed, along with a 1.5-inch domestic water meter from Carpinteria Water District. The fire hydrant is in place, and the conduit for electrical, cable, and telephone have been brought to the property line. The property is planted with approximately six acres of avocados that are three years old and are flourishing under watchful eyes.Â This beautiful land borders a wonderful riparian corridor, with access to 2,800 acres of deeded open space, hiking and riding trails. This parcel is ready for its new owner to build their dream. Proposed plans include a 7,500 sq. ft., four-bedroom, 4.5-bath home with media room and office; there are also plans for a barn for six stalls, a tack room, feed room, two-car garage, and 1,200 sq. ft. apartment. For those who enjoy riding or hiking, this is the place to be.Â 1937 Rancho Monte Alegre Drive is listed for $4,000,000 by Kyle Forsyth and Suzanne Perkins of Compass

Photos by Jim Bartsch

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REAL ESTATES MEDITERRANEAN M A S T E R P I EC E

ocated on one of the most desirable streets in Montecito, charm and grace abound in this casually elegant

Mediterranean villa. Comprised of approximately 6,000 sq. ft. of alluring living areas, the property features an impressive main house with four bedrooms, four full baths and two half baths, two romantic loggias, a separate guest suite with its own bath and kitchenette, a stunning pool cabana with full bath, and a three-car garage. The estate was built with exceptional design and quality, with the design pedigree of architect Don Nulty. Carefully selected materials include Venetian plaster walls, limestone pavers and 150-year-old French Oak flooring, and ceilings adorned with 200-year-old beams repurposed from a Virginia farmhouse. Additional amenities include a saltwater pool and spa, an outdoor Viking kitchen, state-of-the-art Control4 home automation system, grey water catch system, and six zones of heating and air conditioning. Enticing mountain and ocean views are found throughout various vantage points of the home and property, and lush-yet-manicured landscaping provides absolute privacy despite being just minutes from the upper and lower villages of Montecito.

799 Lilac Drive is represented by Luke Ebbin of Compass, offered for $8,740,000

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photos by Eric Foote

REAL ESTATES NEVERLAND NO MORE

ith its sweeping vistas, dramatic mountain ranges, and pastoral farmlands, Santa

Ynez Valley has long been the refuge for many of

California’s most illustrious families. Famous names from finance, film, and sport have chosen to call this peaceful valley home. Set in a quintessential California landscape of flaxen-colored fields watched over by century old Live Oaks is Sycamore Valley Ranch, formerly known as Neverland Ranch; an oasis that offers the utmost in privacy, serenity, and beauty. With the San Rafael and Santa Ynez mountains as backdrops, this approximately 2,698-acre property extends as far as the eye can see. Located on Figueroa Mountain Road, five miles north of the quaint village of Los Olivos, well known for equestrian estates and sprawling vineyards, this property offers a wondrous retreat in a secluded valley. Sycamore Valley Ranch is the ultimate ranch retreat and gated estate. The main residence of approximately 12,598 sq. ft. offers six bedrooms, including a large first-floor master suite with a private loft and two master baths. The home was designed by Robert Altevers for William Bone in a French Normandy style and meticulously crafted to perfection in 1982. The home is nestled between extensively landscaped gardens and a fouracre lake complete with a waterfall, pastoral views to the south and majestic mountain views to the north. An expansive covered outdoor barbeque area is perfect for entertaining and is located adjacent to the inviting pool and nearby pool house and tennis court. There are multiple structures on the property including three separate guest homes, a 5,500 sq. ft. movie theater with a stage, several barns, animal shelter facilities, corrals, and a maintenance shop. 5225 Figueroa Mountain Road in Los Olivos is listed

by Suzanne Perkins and Kyle Forsyth of Compass for $31,000,000

photos by Jim Bartsch

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REAL ESTATES P E AC E & P R I VAC Y IN SUMMERLAND

t the top of the quaint seaside village of Summerland, just east of Montecito, sits a stunning 18.9-acre ranch and polo property

reached by a charming private residential road. In the past, this property was utilized as a practice polo field with some residential structures along with some horse facilities. On site now is a two-bedroom, two-bathroom home designed in the style of the San Ysidro Ranch, with a free-standing two-car garage. The home and its patio enjoy beautiful, white water ocean views and a sense of complete privacy. It is surrounded by large properties that are comprised of estate homes built within extensive avocado ranches. The horse trails of the Montecito Trails Foundation network of trails is immediately accessible to the property, offering a rich equestrian lifestyle where a daily ride is an easy option. The current owner has made a significant investment in both the infrastructure of the property and horse facilities, in addition to bringing the health back to some of the existing landscaping along with planting new landscaping throughout the property. He has created a beautiful entry onto the property with hand-built post and rail fencing along the perimeter. In addition, there are active permits available for another home on the property: a 2,000 sq. ft. cottage on a separate building site, which also enjoys white water views. A larger home on the site would also be possible. A very large part of the beauty of this property lies in its total privacy and the amount of absolute quiet and peacefulness of the location. When you are on the porch of the existing main house you look out at the water and the waves, the passion fruit hanging from the fencing to the side and hear nothing but birds singing. You are completely tucked away but only five minutes from dinner at Luckyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s or the Plow & Angel at the San Ysidro Ranch, or a drink by the sea at the Rosewood Miramar Beach.

400 Asegra Road is listed by Sandy Stahl of Sothebyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s for $9.2 million

photos by Eric Foote and David Palermo

208 |

REAL ESTATES IN THE HEART OF MIRAMAR

truly once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to own your very own coastal retreat located immediately next to the newly opened, five-star

Rosewood Miramar Beach Montecito Resort. This charming beachside compound that sits on nearly a half-acre of secluded grounds with four charming beach cottages, each nestled within lush landscaping, is just steps to the beautiful sand of Miramar Beach and the Rosewood Miramarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s world-class restaurants, bars, and spa. This generational opportunity is perfect for full-time living, for a family summer compound to make lasting memories, or rent out one or more of the cottages as an investment with long-term leases or short-term vacation rentals. This property and its perfect location provide for endless possibilities. This one-of-a-kind compound has four light and airy beach cottages including a main cottage with two bedrooms and two full baths in addition to a charming loft space the kids will love! The main cottage is clad with white shingles, has Douglas fir floors, and has a

decorative water tower that oozeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Montecito nostalgia of an era gone by. Further on the property is a white board-and-batten duplex cottage with two one-bedroom and one full bath units with charming kitchens and living areas. A third, one-bedroom, one full bath cottage, also styled with board and batten, features a vintage kitchen, exuding charm and history. The tranquil outdoor spaces provide privacy with each cottage, but also provide for easy flow across the estate. The property boasts plenty of private off-street parking, as well as a stand-alone garage. The property evokes the desire for owners and visitors to stroll over to the Rosewood Miramar Beach to enjoy all the resort has to offer, including two world-class restaurants, a stunning beachside bar, and all the understated grandeur of the Manor House, home to the handsome Manor Bar, which has quickly become the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s go-to for cocktails and company. The property is just steps to Miramar Beach, as well as the charming and bustling seaside village known as Coast Village Road, which is home to beautiful clothing and jewelry boutiques, art galleries, plentiful retail shops, and gourmet restaurants.

15 Miramar Avenue is offered by the Calcagno & Hamilton Team of Berkshire Hathaway Home Services for $5,100,000

Photos by Rafael Bautista and Eric Foote

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