-TRACKSS c e n i c Tr a i n R i d e s •
Cutting-Edge Art • Unique Shopping and Dining
PRESENTED BY
April 23, 2015 NOW 7
-TRACKScontents 1 Publisher’s Note 2 Showtime: The Railyard Comes Alive with Vibrant Performances 3 Map of the Railyard and Guadalupe Districts 4 Contemporary Art Scene: The Railyard’s Galleries Champion Forward-Looking, Boundary-Breaking Artwork 6 Shop till You Have to Stop: The Railyard and Guadalupe Districts Make for a Can’t-Miss Treasure-Hunting Experience 8 From the Archives: Historic Photos— and a Very Brief History—of the Santa Fe Railyard 10 New Mexico Rail Runner Express: Hop Aboard Santa Fe’s Local Commuter Train
Photo: © Wendy McEahern for Parasol Productions
12 Eating and Drinking: Savor the Food and Ambience at the Railyard and Guadalupe Districts’ Quirky Cafés, Sophisticated Restaurants, and Bustling Institutions
bruce adams b.y. cooper EDITOR amy hegarty CONTRIBUTING EDITOR whitney spivey WRITERS eve tolpa, whitney spivey GRAPHIC DESIGNER whitney stewart ADDITIONAL DESIGN michelle odom, sybil watson hannah reiter GRAPHIC DESIGN INTERN cameron blickensdorf SALES REPRESENTATIVES david wilkinson, amy ingram OPERATIONS MANAGER ginny stewart PUBLISHER
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER
A PUBLICATION OF BELLA MEDIA, LLC Pacheco Park, 1512 Pacheco St, Ste D-105, Santa Fe, NM 87505 Telephone 505-983-1444; fax 505-983-1555, info@santafean.com
SantaFeTracks.com
DAVID ROBIN
WELCOME TO TRACKS MAGAZINE, a special supplement to Santa Fean NOW magazine. Dedicated to the fascinating shops, restaurants, galleries, markets, and more of Santa Fe’s Railyard and Guadalupe districts, TRACKS will help guide locals and visitors alike through the neighborhoods’ many offerings. During the past 15 years, the Railyard District has found its own identity thanks to the kind of art it displays, its funky bars and restaurants, and its unique shops that sell a variety of treasures. The Railyard is unlike any other area of Santa Fe, yet it’s so much a part of our community. More and more, events are held here because of its accessibility, especially for those of us who travel by bicycle. As you savor the open space, the community gardens, the farmers market, and the handmade creations by talented local artisans, know that you’re part of Santa Fe’s history as well as its present and future, all of which the Railyard represents. All this and access to an efficient and scenic train ride to BRUCE ADAMS Albuquerque—there’s nothing like the Railyard, so enjoy. Publisher
On the cover: Santa Fe’s Railyard District is filled with restaurants, shops, and galleries, plus it hosts markets, festivals, concerts and more. Photo by Chris Corrie.
get on board! imm e r se your se l f in the historic and modern-da y o f f eri n gs of Sa nta F e ’s fu n-filled R ailyard and Guadalupe d i s tri c ts THE ARRIVAL OF THE RAILROAD in Santa Fe in 1880, courtesy of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway Company, signaled an era of historic growth and change in the area, as travelers no longer had to endure the perils of the Old Santa Fe Trail to reach the city at the trail’s end. In addition to passengers, the trains brought building materials such as brick and galvanized tin; the resulting metal roofs and Victorian structures gave the Railyard neighborhood a different architectural character from the one found downtown. Meanwhile, the adjacent Guadalupe District, one of the city’s oldest communities, shifted its focus from farming to commerce, in conjunction with the rise of the railroad. The area was a thriving locus of community well into the 1940s, when rail travel began to take a back seat to motoring. By 1987, the Railyard had fallen into disrepair, and the city embarked on a massive redevelopment initiative spanning decades and incorporating ideas from residents, nonprofits, and businesses. In 2008, the revitalized Railyard District opened to great fanfare. Today the area has regained its status as a community meeting place. Possessing a decidedly modern flavor, it offers shopping, dining, and performing arts plus galleries and a designated walking and biking trail that extends through Railyard Park. The Baca District, at the southern end of the Railyard, is known for its contemporary live/work spaces, while the historic Santa Fe Depot is the northern terminus for the New Mexico Rail Runner Express commuter train. At the heart of it all is Railyard Plaza, a gathering space that hosts concerts and events and is only a 15- to 20-minute walk from Downtown’s Plaza.
|O V E R H E A R D | Q: What’s the most exciting thing to you about the Railyard District? “Because of the wonderful mix of contemporary art, the park, the farmers market, and now a movie theatre [that’s opening in early May], the Railyard District is a dynamic destination and meeting place where people from all parts of our community gather.”—Irene Hofmann, Phillips director and chief curator, SITE Santa Fe
Q: What makes the Railyard/Guadalupe area unique to you? “The Railyard/Guadalupe area is unique because there are many locally owned businesses in a historical setting where people can shop, dine, and socialize. At Teca Tu, we feel this area is perfect for our business because we serve locals and tourists who appreciate the uniqueness of our products. The Sanbusco Center especially exemplifies this sense of community.” —Mira Lopez, manager of Teca Tu “It’s all homegrown! Growers and ranchers at the farmers market, creative expression at Warehouse 21 and El Museo Cultural, lots of locally owned restaurants and shops, and a progressive vibe that infuses the whole cityscape!” —Nicholas Ballas, owner of Cowgirl BBQ TRACKS 2015
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showtime the Railyard comes alive with vibrant performances THROUGHOUT the summer and fall, locals and visitors flock to Railyard Plaza and Railyard Park to catch a wide range of outdoor concerts and special events. Heath Concerts brings big-name talent to the stage from the worlds of rock, folk, country, blues, and more, while other offerings include ZozoFest, created in conjunction with Fiesta de Santa Fe, the AHA Festival of Progressive Arts, and the concert to kick off the annual Santa Fe International Folk Art Market. Dedicated to the preservation and proliferation of Hispanic traditions, El Museo Cultural de Santa Fe presents flamenco concerts, belly-dancing workshops, and plays by local playwrights. In June it will host the main event of Parallel Studios’ Currents: The Santa Fe International New Media Festival, a yearly showcase for installation art and multimedia performances. El Museo is also the rehearsal space for the children’s after-school theater program Pandemonium Productions. Next door is the Railyard Performance Center, a live music and dance venue at the epicenter of Santa Fe’s African and Haitian dancing and drumming scene. Acting, singing, songwriting, hip-hop, improv, spoken-word poetry, and concert production are just a handful of the opportunities that Warehouse 21, on Paseo de Peralta, has been offering the city’s youth since 1997. The organization’s purpose-built facility boasts two performance spaces, plus studios accommodating a multitude of media, and its programming encompasses live music, plays, and weekly open-mike nights. Second Street Brewery hosts live music weekly, from folk rock and gypsy jazz to country and Americana. If your taste tends to be eclectic, head to author George R. R. Martin’s Jean Cocteau Cinema, which hosts movies, art openings, magic shows, book readings, live concerts, and much more.
HEATH CONCERTS CONNECTING COMMUNITY IN NEW MEXICO THROUGH CONCERTS AND EVENTS!
Chalet • Habitat • Sympli Sanbusco Market Center 500 Montezuma Ave #114 Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 505 984-9836 2
santafetracks.com
FOR TICKETS AND MORE CONCERT INFORMATION VISIT HEATHCONCERTS.ORG
The Railyard and Guadalupe Districts
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1. Andiamo! 2. Array 3. Artichokes & Pomegranates 4. Bubbly Heart Studio 5. Cowgirl BBQ 6. El Tesoro 7. Get Framed Inc, Robb Rael 8. Kioti 9. Le Bon Voyage 10. Second Street Brewery
DeVargas Center
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ADRIAN WILLS
The diversity of performing arts in the Railyard makes the area one of Santa Fe’s most culturally vital neighborhoods.
Pas eo de Per alta
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contemporary art scene
EFRAÍN M. PADRÓ
the Railyard’s galleries champion forward-looking, boundary-breaking artwork
SITE Santa Fe
Joan Watts, Untitled 33, oil on canvas, 36 x 36". Courtesy of Charlotte Jackson Fine Art. Nanami Ishihara, Yama Onna, Japanese pigment and acrylic gouache on cotton mounted on panel, 76 x 154". Courtesy of Zane Bennett Contemporary Art.
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CONTEMPORARY ART ISN’T NEW TO Santa Fe, but it’s taken on its own character in the Railyard District. The area’s rich artistic legacy dates back to the 19th century, when the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway Company hired painters and photographers to create images of Northern New Mexico that would entice travelers in the east to make the trip west. Today, art lovers perusing the Railyard District are treated to a visual feast that includes photography, ceramics, Japanese bamboo pieces, and Incan textiles, in addition to 2-D and 3-D works by some of the world’s most accomplished painters and sculptors. Ethnographic art, which has been well represented in Santa Fe’s galleries for decades, has a strong presence in the Railyard, but a handful of galleries have taken to displaying it alongside contemporary works—a juxtaposition that pays homage to the City Different’s heritage as a cultural crossroads while also revitalizing and recontextualizing both genres. The Railyard’s industrial history and character, as well as the open, expansive feel and large scale of its buildings, make the area ideally suited to display bigger—and sometimes more interactive—works of art. The architecture, too, differs from what’s found in other parts of the city. Rather than a landscape of traditional adobe and Spanish Colonial structures, you’ll find a variety of building materials with a more urban feel: corrugated metal, poured concrete, and various colors of stucco. The Railyard is also home to the Bubbly Heart Studio, which offers painting parties, private art lessons, and more. Friday nights are particularly great for visiting the Railyard. SITE Santa Fe, an internationally renowned exhibition space that opened in 1995 and helped define the neighborhood as a contemporary art destination, offers free admission from 10 am until midnight. The Railyard Arts District (RAD), a neighborhood organization comprising 10 galleries in the area (as well as SITE), hosts Last Friday Art Walks, held on the last Friday of every month from 5 to 7 pm . All participating stops are within easy strolling distance of each other.
Judy Tuwaletstiwa, Ruah Flame 2, graphite on burned paper and glass, 12 x 12". Courtesy of William Siegel Gallery.
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The Railyard not only joins Canyon Road and Downtown as one of the city’s premier art districts, it’s also regarded as a statewide focal point for cutting-edge projects and exhibitions. Oli Sihvonen, Elegy (017), oil and acrylic on canvas, 60 x 69". Courtesy of David Richard Gallery.
328 S. Guadalupe
TECA TU
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Santa Fe
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986-1260
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LBVBAGS.com
A Pawsworthy Pet Emporium Santa Fe’s Unique Shop for Pets and Their People Visit us at Teca Tu for gourmet food, travel accessories, comfy beds, stunning pet apparel, incredible neckwear, joyous toys, and yummy fresh-baked treats! Inside Sanbusco Market Center 500 Montezuma Ave 505-982-9374 tecatu@gmail.com
tecatu.com TRACKS 2015
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DESIGN CENTER
Extraordinary flowers for not so ordinary people
FLORAL DESIGN STUDIO
{ring} 505.820.0044 {web} www.artichokesandpomegranates.com {blog} www.artichokesandpomegranates. blogspot.com
All day breakfast lunch * sweets caffeinate * refresh Drive up to the window or come inside!
shop till you have to stop the Railyard and Guadalupe districts make for a can’t-miss treasure-hunting experience
WHEN SHOPPING IN the Railyard and Guadalupe districts, you’ll find a little bit of everything: funky Western wear (Kowboyz, Double Take at the Ranch), sophisticated women’s attire (Cupcake Clothing), retail and resale items (Double Take), international furnishings and folk art (Casa Nova by Natalie), home and gift items (Array), luggage and travel accessories (Le Bon Voyage), floral arrangements (Artichokes & Pomegranates), local foods (Santa Fe School of Cooking, ChocolateSmith), outdoor equipment (REI, The Reel Life), and much more. Anchoring the neighborhood is the track-side Santa Fe Farmers Market Pavilion, a purpose-built structure that hosts the Santa Fe Farmers Market and the Railyard Artisan Market. Here you’ll find delicacies like heirloom poultry and local honey as well as crafts in a variety of materials, including fiber, hand-blown glass, and Casa Nova by Natalie ceramics. The nearby Sanbusco Market Center, on Montezuma Street, opened in the late 1800s as a building supply warehouse for businesses that sprang up in the wake of the railroad coming to town; today it’s an emporium that puts the “special” in specialty shops. Santa Fe Pens offers calligraphy pens, limited edition pens, stationery, and more, while pet boutique Teca Tu stocks gourmet treats and stylish accoutrements like turquoise-studded collars. Contemporary jeweler Eidos and local goldsmith Dell Fox Jewelry propose two very different ways of getting your bauble fix, and On Your Feet is a local favorite for comfortable, stylish footwear. Women’s clothing
SYBIL WATSON
AT THE
505-982-0048
Get Framed Inc, Robb Rael
Teca Tu
Art - Objects - Textile Framing Mirrors - Shrink Wrapping www.robbrael.com
418 Cerrillos Road 6
santafetracks.com
GABRIELLA MARKS
505-424-6996
Cupcake Clothing
by designers such as Nanette Lepore and M. Missoni are on offer at Bodhi Bazaar, while Kioti provides foreign-accented wearable art in the form of women’s clothing and accessories. Op.cit sells new and used books and signed first editions, and Pandora’s carries textiles for the home made by top-notch artisans from New Mexico and around the world. At the far north end of Guadalupe Street is the DeVargas Center, where stores run the gamut from practical to luxe. Las Cosas Kitchen Shoppe is a little bit of both, with its classic kitchenware lines (All-Clad, Le Creuset) and eclectic cooking classes. The same goes for Indigo Baby, featuring organic and natural items for young children and expectant mothers. But the vintage furs at Queen’s Ransom or the chile-piñon brittle at Señor Murphy? Those fall squarely on the side of indulgence.
SYBIL WATSON
Double Take
SYBIL WATSON
The Railyard and Guadalupe districts lure shoppers with their quirky and elegant stores that sell everything from funky Western ware to high-end gold jewelry.
(818) 286-3162
Marc Howard, handcrafted 18-kt gold ring set with 6.45 cts, oval peridot, and two round fancy light yellow diamonds. Available at Marc Howard Custom Design Studio.
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from the archives historic photos—and a very brief history—of the Santa Fe Railyard by Whitney Spivey
To see more images from the Palace of the Governors photo archives, visit pogphotoarchives.tumblr.com.
ON FEBRUARY 9, 1880, the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway Company pulled the first train into the Santa Fe depot, marking a new era of travel to this part of the Southwest. No longer forced to arrive via horseback, wagon, or stagecoach along the Santa Fe Trail, tourists and new residents—including artists, craftsmen, and Harvey Girls—unloaded onto the platform, eager to experience Santa Fe and the surrounding area. With the arrival of the automobile less than a half-century later, the popularity of railroad travel began to decline. In 1987, the Santa Fe Railyard was declared a blighted area in need of revival. In February 2002, 122 years after that first train arrived, the Railyard Master Plan was approved, and the Santa Fe Railyard Community Corporation began to oversee improvements to the 50-acre site. The resulting development is the vibrant Railyard District we know and enjoy today.
The Railyard ca. 1928, looking west down Manhattan Avenue
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COURTESY OF THE PALACE OF THE GOVERNORS PHOTO ARCHIVES; NEGATIVE NUMBER 117224 (DEPOT; PHOTO BY ARTHUR TAYLOR) AND 092244 (RAILYARD)
The Santa Fe Depot ca. 1976
Seen Around
photographs by Stephen Lang
There’s always something going on in Santa Fe’s Railyard District!
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New Mexico Rail Runner Express save money and miles on your car—plus take in stunning local scenery—by hopping aboard Santa Fe’s commuter train by Whitney Spivey WHETHER YOU’RE a jogger loping along the Rail Trail, a driver stopped at a flashing intersection, or a loyal patron of the Saturday farmers market, the New Mexico Rail Runner Express has surely become a familiar sight as it lumbers through downtown Santa Fe. Consisting of four or five cars plus a locomotive, the Rail Runner travels from Belen to Santa Fe every day, 128 times per week. Albuquerque resident Julia Walley, who works full time at Outside magazine, is one of the approximately 3,800 people who commute to Santa Fe via train each week. Walley prefers the train over driving for several reasons; avoiding wear and tear on her car and saving money are two of the biggest. “I’ve estimated that I can save about $1,000 a year taking the train,” she says. “The savings will, of course, vary for everyone, but I’d be hard-pressed to imagine that there still wouldn’t be savings.” A day pass from downtown Albuquerque to Santa Fe is $10; an annual pass is $1,100. “Even with lowering gas prices, it will still cost more to drive,” says Allyne Clarke, the Rail Runner’s advertising sales manager. “In addition, it’s less stress. You’re leaving the driving to someone else, and that gives you time to relax, read, or 10
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NMRRX by the numbers (since 2006) 400 million: Miles taken off area roadways 8,625,355: Passengers on the train 295,281: Bicycle boardings 128: Number of times the train travels the corridor each week 14: Stations from Belen to Santa Fe 10%: Reduction of a household’s carbon emissions by a single commuter using public transportation (according to the American Public Transportation Association)
use an electronic device.” Or you can just look out the window—the 100-mile ride through the high desert is certainly a scenic one. Although commuting may take longer by train than by car (the ride adds roughly an extra hour to Walley’s round-trip excursion), you can put that extra time to good use, thanks to a (usually) quiet work car and free Wi-Fi. “On my train
need to know Reduced fares are available for seniors, students, kids 10–17 years old, Medicare cardholders, and people with disabilities (with proper documentation). Children 9 and younger ride free. Through December 2015, Veterans with a VA Card can get a free train pass. The train corridor has 14 stations and operates seven days a week, but with limited hours. “The Rail Runner is a commuter train, so its primary focus is to get people to and from work,” says Allyne Clarke, the Rail Runner’s advertising sales manager. Check riometro.org for complete schedules. Bicycles are allowed on the train, which means commuters can have a means of transportation once they arrive at their destinations. A Rail Runner ticket also allows riders free access to both Santa Fe and Albuquerque city buses. Visit riometro.org for more.
commute, I’ve designed everything from logos to wedding invitations,” says Walley, who, in addition to working her day job, owns a letterpress and graphic design studio. “When I have a lot of freelance work to do,” she adds, “I’m more inclined to take the train because that opens up ‘dead time’ I can now make into productive time.”
The Bubbly heArt Studio Painting Parties & Classes
Making Memories & Masterpieces 2 hrs only $35 You take home your very own masterpiece!
Find us @ the Artyard
505-306-7286 703 Camino de la Familia #3102
Calendar @ BubblyheArtStudio.com
See ya at the Zia! Saturday and Sunday Brunch from 11 am Build your own Bloody Mary Bar! Make your own Mimosa Bar! Beautiful Patio Dining Great Food - Great Drink - Great Fun!
326 S. Guadalupe • 988-7008 • www.ziadiner.com TRACKS 2015
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Cowgirl BBQ
eating and drinking GABRIELLA MARKS
savor the fo od and ambience at the Railyard and Guadalupe districts’ quirky c afés, sophisticated restaurants, and bustling institutions
Andiamo!
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Second Street Brewery
SYBIL WATSON LISA LAW
THE RAILYARD AND Guadalupe districts are home to some of the city’s most beloved dining institutions, as well as a variety of specialty eateries. In the former category are Tomasita’s, serving up traditional New Mexican enchiladas, sopaipillas, and margaritas for some 40 years; Andiamo!, making Italian-inspired dishes with local ingredients and influences for two decades; and Zia Diner, doling out generous helpings of comfort food with a twist—such as its signature green-chile meat loaf and strawberry-rhubarb pie—since 1986. Sanbusco Market Center’s El Tesoro and Pranzo Italian Grill have earned legions of followers for their Salvadoran delicacies and reimagined Mediterranean classics, respectively. On the more casual end of the spectrum, the Santa Fe Farmers Market takes place Tuesday and Saturday mornings; guests can sample local fare from dozens of vendors or indulge in breakfast burritos, baked goods, and organic coffee from the Pavilion Cafe. There’s no shortage of nightlife in the area.
DOUGLAS MERRIAM
Acclaimed Broadway pianist David Geist performs regularly at Pranzo Italian Grill.
The Railyard and Guadalupe districts’ eating and drinking scenes reflect Santa Fe’s culture of blending the old with the new, the traditional with the innovative.
COURTESY OF ZIA DINER
Come celebrate TWENTY years at your Come celebrate TWENTY years at your beautifully remodeled neighborhood trattoria! beautifully remodeled neighborhood trattoria! Lunch M-F 11-2 · Dinner Nightly at 5 Lunch M-F 11-2 · Street, Dinner Nightly at 5 322 Garfield Santa Fe 322 Garfield Street, Santa Fe 505.995.9595 • AndiamoSantaFe.com 505.995.9595 • AndiamoSantaFe.com Andiamo – Established 1995 Andiamo – Established 1995
Zia Diner’s Santa Fe Sunset Martini
Cowgirl BBQ 319 S Guadalupe, 505-982-2565, cowgirlsantafe.com Outstanding BBQ and modern American comfort food since 1993! Home of “The Mother Burger,” the People’s Choice winner of Best Green Chile Cheeseburger in Santa Fe! Vegetarian specialties, great steaks, salads, seafood, and seasonal, regional American specials round out the menu. A terrific array of craft brews from the TapRoom plus nightly live entertainment make the Cowgirl the best small club this side of Austin. Open seven days a week: 11:30 am –11 pm during the week and 11 am to midnight on the weekends. Bar open until 1 am Friday and Saturday.
El Tesoro Cafe
500 Montezuma #104, 505-988-3886
El Tesoro Cafe offers delicious New Mexican and Central American cuisine to all of Santa Fe, NM. We serve food made from the freshest and finest ingredients available. Our courteous staff is always ready to provide you with the prompt and friendly service you deserve. We have been serving Santa Fe for 11 years. Breakfast entrees, fresh soups and salads, great coffee and pastries, a variety of popular entrees, and fun desserts.
1607 Paseo de Peralta, 505-989-3278 secondstreetbrewery.com
Home to the local favorite and award winning Alien Burger, Second Street Brewery at the Railyard is the perfect place to bring friends and family to enjoy traditional pub fare and craft beer. Brewmaster Rod Tweet uses traditional brewing techniques from England and Germany, and hops that are hard to get from all over the world, making Second Street’s beers the most unique you’ll find in Santa Fe.
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
Second Street Brewery at the Railyard
the dining car
Second Street Brewery at the Railyard offers locally brewed craft beers and live music almost every night, in addition to pub fare such as fish-and-chips and pulled-pork sandwiches. Across the tracks, the soon-toopen Violet Crown restaurant, part of a luxurious, multilevel cinema, will offer gourmet pizzas and 30 rotating selections of craft beer, wine, and cider—all of which can be consumed in-theater. Nearby Junction calls itself “Santa Fe’s dedicated sports bar,” and with 11 flat-screen TVs it more than lives up to that description. (Check the online calendar for which games are on tap any given day.) Then there’s Cowgirl BBQ, which—between its bar, main dining rooms, catering kitchen, billiard parlor, and private dining spaces—takes up almost an entire block of Guadalupe Street. Live music, a hopping patio, and menu standbys such as brisket nachos, buffalo burgers, and Frito pies make this restaurant a year-round local favorite.