098-100_CyclingRoundup_SO
3/7/07
12:18
Page 98
THE WORLD’S
GREATEST CYCLE TOURS Feeling inspired by the Tour de France? Dust off your saddle, grab a yellow jersey and get into gear with our roundup of the most scenic and rewarding rides worldwide
F
rom Hanoi to Havana, Delhi to Dakar, bicycles rule the roads. Environmentally friendly? Tick. Cost effective? Tick. And not only do they keep you fit, but they also help you fit in. Across Asia, Africa and beyond, it’s the way the locals get around. Whether you’re haggling over the handlebars or racing children home from school, you’ll be experiencing the real destination – at ground level. Nothing beats that feeling of freewheeling the last big downhill of the day, thighs tingling, lungs bulging, wind in your hair
(and flies up your nose). But best of all, cycling means you can sample the region’s delectable delicacies without a twinge of guilt. While buses and trains hurtle from city to town and back again, bikes open up the world in between. Travel at your own pace, pause for a picnic or take an impromptu swim as you stumble upon hidden spots. Biking offers hands-on, independent adventure. Whether your idea of bike bliss is a gentle morning pootle followed by a bottle of burgundy, or a bone-rattling marathon of mighty peaks, we’ve picked our favourite trips to suit every fitness level, pocket and persuasion.
TANZANIA Best for: Getting close to wildlife You might feel safer in a 4WD while you’re gazing at big game, but getting to those wildlife wonderlands by bike is an exhilarating alternative. From the base of Kilimanjaro, pedal across the baobab-studded steppes of the Great Rift Valley, dipping into village life and camping under the starry African sky. From Lake Manyara, climb the rift escarpment to Lake
98 Wanderlust August/September 2007
NEW ZEALAND Best for: Big scenery The wide roads of New Zealand lure cyclists from around the planet, and it’s easy to see why – the jaw-dropping scenery, topnotch pit stops and absence of traffic make for some of the best cycling in the world. As well as the glaciers, geysers, rainforests and wineries, New Zealand has also mastered the art of service. Your bags can be transported between comfy lodges and rustic farmstays, leaving you free to pedal on and enjoy the scenery. For a great South Island overview, ride a spectacular swoosh from Christchurch to the raw grandeur of Milford Sound. Try to pick up a copy of Cycling New Zealand (Lonely Planet, 2000, currently out of print) for more ideas.
Eyasi and the Ngorongoro Crater, packed with Africa’s Big Five. You won’t be able to cycle here, so give your legs a rest and let a good guide drive you past the lions and rhinos. Although not a technically difficult ride, this route across northern Tanzania tackles offthe-beaten-track areas, taking you beyond the boundaries of a static safari. The International Bicycle Fund site (www.ibike.org/africaguide) has an excellent section on Tanzania.
098-100_CyclingRoundup_SO
3/7/07
12:19
Page 99
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY Best for: High achievers
GUATEMALA Best for: Meeting the locals Tackling Central America on two wheels offers a different perspective on the jungle landscapes, Mayan ruins and bubbling volcanoes. Antigua is the best launching point, with plenty of agencies offering equipment, maps and a variety of tours. Freewheel through the Guatemalan highlands, passing colourful market towns and coffee plantations on the way to Lake Atitlán, a tranquil spot overlooked by three towering volcanoes. From here you can head north to the remote Cuchumatanes mountains to rub shoulders with the local Amerindians, or strike out to Tikal National Park, where quetzals trill from the undergrowth and a trek through this pre-Hispanic world of Mayan temples, engulfed by rainforest, makes a magical departure from dirt roads.
For serious scenery, the Himalaya takes some beating. The lonely Karakoram Highway (KKH) links Pakistan with Kashgar in western China; its 1,300km are entirely paved, with surprisingly gentle gradients – ideal for adventurous cyclists, who can also explore remote lands surrounding the highway. From Islamabad, bus or fly to Gilgit, an excellent base – head east to scale the road to Skardu, west over the challenging Shandur Pass, south to catch a glimpse of Nanga Parbat (8,125m) or north into the breathtaking Hunza Valley. With views to take your breath away, wonderful wild camps and remote shepherd villages, this is extreme cycling at its best. Bring your own bike, cold-weather camping gear, plenty of spare parts and a puncture repair kit. Sign up with the UK-based Cyclists’ Touring Club (www.ctc.org.uk; £34/year), which has useful information on cycling in this challenging but immensely rewarding region.
JAPAN Best for: Aprés-cycle
SOUTH AFRICA Best for: Drink drivers Why take a car when you could tackle wine country on two wheels? Cycle the scenic route from Cape Town to Stellenbosch to sample the region’s finest drops, pottering lazily among vineyards, enjoying bibulous picnics between neat rows of juicy grapes. Once you’ve drunk your fill, head east on peaceful roads to explore the interior’s national parks before hitting the coast, rounding Cape Agulhas – Africa’s southernmost point – and spotting whales and penguins all the way back to Table Mountain. www.sa-cycling.com is a great starting point, with route suggestions and useful advice about local clubs and bike shops.
Delve into the delights of old Japan, snaking around the coast of littlevisited Shikoku, with sea views and Shinto temples to adorn your ride. This volcanic region makes for challenging ascents, but road surfaces are good and the rewards fantastic – volcanic spring water is tamed at onsens (communal baths) where you can scrub, soak and steam your aching muscles. Cross to neighbouring Kyushu for the big push up brooding Aso-san, the world’s largest active caldera, before gliding down to the Pacific Coast, pausing for breath at tiny fishing villages and sampling real Japanese living in a traditional ryokan (inn). Check out the Kan-cycling website (www.kancycling.com) for ideas on riding the Land of the Rising Sun.
Wanderlust August/September 2007 99
Brian Horisk/Alamy; Beth Wald/Getty Images; Peter Adams/Getty Images; LOOK Die Bildagentur der Fotografen GmbH/Alamy; Lanz von Horsten/Getty Images; Jamie Marshall – Tribaleye Images/Alamy
CYCLE THE WORLD
098-100_CyclingRoundup_SO
3/7/07
12:20
Page 100
CYCLE THE WORLD
JORDAN Best for: Architecture hotspots Give the camels a break and opt for a bicycle – not only are they more comfortable, but bikes are easier to control and far less flatulent! Ride south from Amman for a cross-section of Jordan. Bike to Biblical Mount Nebo and the Byzantine mosaics of Madaba, explore the rosered city of Petra and conquer majestic desert landscapes at Wadi Rum. There are plenty of places to escape the heat as you glide through ancient olive groves and sleepy Bedouin villages. Finish your trip with some water therapy – enjoy a relaxing float in the Dead Sea, or descend into the fish-rich waters of the Red Sea. With smooth roads, most signs in English and major places of interest less than a day’s ride apart, cycling is firmly on the up – although infrastructure is still in its infancy. Accommodation is readily available, so there’s no need for tents or stoves, but bring your own bike and spares, or consider travelling with a specialist UK operator.
NORTH AMERICA
SRI LANKA Best for: Sheer variety Bite-sized Sri Lanka is a satisfying stop for cyclists – a diverse mix of ancient Buddhist culture, verdant tea plantations and wheel-welcoming tarmac that is delightfully traffic-free. From the cultural triangle of ancient cities, glide along quiet backroads, past rock fortresses and fascinating cave temples, inhaling sweet spice-infused air as you go. Dip south through the rolling estates of tea country and park your bike at Yala National Park. Here you might spot leopard, elephant, wild boar and abundant birdlife in the jungle before treating your sore limbs to a chill-out on some of the planet’s best beaches. Colombo’s National Mountain Biking Association (+94 11 269 1505) has information on routes and can arrange guides and advise on purchase or rental options.
LYCRA & LUBRICATION A BEGINNERS’ GUIDE TO CYCLE TOURING Select the right steed A gentle afternoon ride and a fortnight’s cycling expedition are a world apart – and so are the bikes you need. Touring bikes are created for long-distance cycling, with greater frame strength, superior stability and, most importantly, more comfort. Brooks’ (www.brookssaddles.com) wide leather touring saddles offer much better long-term comfort than
regular soft ones. Tyre choice depends on your destination but, as a general rule, go smooth for tarmac and knobbly for everything else. A small rear-view mirror is also handy.
Getting it there Regulations for flying with your bike vary between airlines and airports – call ahead and box your bike if possible. Some airlines charge excess for handling,
100 Wanderlust August/September 2007
some don’t, but weight limits are usually 20-30kg.
Look the part Lycra shorts are the way forward – avoid underwear to prevent chafing. Layers will help you maintain a comfortable temperature and a combination of fabrics (including windproof, waterproof and warm) maximises flexibility. A helmet is a must
(compulsory in many countries), and you should carry enough water to stay hydrated, especially in remote areas – a backpack water bladder is ideal.
Learn the basics You need to know how to repair a puncture. Checking the three Bs (bolts, brakes and bearings) and cleaning the chain regularly will help avoid hold-ups on your trip, and you won’t regret
investing in a good toolkit including a Leatherman, spoke key and bike multi-tool.
Fitness Training before the trip is important. Short daily rides at least six weeks in advance will help prepare your body for what’s to come so be sure to build up gradually. But remember, it’s a holiday – so take it easy and enjoy the ride!
Stephen Studd/Getty Images; Paul Morrison; Whit Richardson/Getty Images
Best for: Off-roading If you’ve got the stamina, North America has certainly got the scenery. Pedal a section of the Continental Divide Trail, which stretches 5,000km along the Rocky Mountains from the top of Montana to the bottom of New Mexico. Too rugged? Plump for sea views from Vancouver, Canada, to Tijuana, Mexico on the Pacific Coast Highway. But the best biking is around Moab, Utah – against a sandstone backdrop, test your nerve on the Poison Spider, Porcupine Rim and Slickrock, some of the region’s top off-road tracks. Biking is big here and it’s easy to pick up advice – visit a local bike shop or check out www.bicycling.com and www.adventurecycling.com for know-how, routes and ride-outs.