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Travelsindangerzones We’ve all had our fair share of thrills, spills and close shaves but, for these three hardy readers, travel took a more perilous turn
shnikovla a K y b p u ld I was he its in Ethiopia d n a b g in h is d bran Name: Ben Adeline Age: 25 Job: Composite engineer Danger profile: South Africa by truck, and rafting Ethiopia’s whitewater rapids Going next: Mongolia
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n search of a real African adventure, Ben Adeline joined a Scientific Exploration Society expedition charting the Beschillo River – a remote tributary of the Blue Nile that carves a path through Ethiopia’s highlands. Ben was one of four skilled boatmen guiding a team of scientists through the crocodileinfested rapids. Little did he know that the chief helmsman would fall ill and that he would be faced with turbulent events, both on and off the water. Three weeks into the seven-week project, the team was forced to leave the river.“We got a call from the embassy to say that Addis Ababa had gone into meltdown as politicians wrangled over election results. Critically for us, we lost access to our support helicopter – without this safety net, we couldn’t go any further.” The team retreated into the mountains where disaster struck: vomiting, diarrhoea and, worst of all, malaria. Several members of the team became so ill they were transported back to Addis.“Splitting the group was awful”recalls Ben.“Morale was at rock bottom.”
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Above: As if crocs and rapids weren’t enough, Ben had bandits to reckon with too
Ten days later the tension eased. A replacement helicopter was found and Ben was made chief helmsman. “Each day a scout canoe would travel ahead of us to radio back advice on which part of the riverbed to steer through. One morning, the scout canoe message was much more serious – they were being shot at by bandits wielding huge Kalashnikov rifles. At the next rapid, we found the river barricaded. There was no way forward.” Negotiators tried to calm the situation but the team was marooned for a terrifying 24 hours.“We managed to secure our kit on the shore and we huddled together as night fell, surrounded by the bandits who had now demanded huge amounts of cash. We managed to contact the embassy using our satellite phone and they dispatched a rescue team. With the help of night-vision goggles, I could radio them information about the location of our captors around the camp. It took
them 12 hours to reach us in the base of the ravine, but just before dawn they stormed the camp and took the bandits by surprise.” Ben concludes that navigating such hostile places is possible, but not without a strong team, support for when things go wrong and a healthy dose of respect for your environment. “You need a complete understanding of the risks involved, and you need to be equipped to cope with all eventualities. Between us, we had a lot of experience and everybody kept a level head. Panicking would have jeopardised everybody’s safety.”
BEN’S ADVICE O Approach travel with the right frame of mind, assess the risks and stay calm. O Get to know local customs and foster good relationships with the people you meet – many problems are caused by fear and panic, on both sides.
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diaries I drove a truck
war-torn Afg hanistan
Brent was shaken by his experience but he believes that the targets of violence are military, not civilian.“Do your homework and learn which bits to avoid. Heading even a few kilometres south of Kabul into Taliban-ruled territory would be insanity, but the multicultural north is free of fighting and it is possible to visit as an independent traveller. “I explored Mazar-i-Sharif before heading into the Hindukush where spectacular views across the desertlike landscapes leave the few visitors that make it this far with a feeling of stupendous insignificance. The war up here is between man and the elements.”
through
Name: Brent Lewin Age: 26 Job: Logistics manager Danger profile: Kashmir, Nepal and Afghanistan Going next: Home to Canada
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anadian Brent Lewin’s first impression of a danger zone that had dominated TV screens for months was surprisingly positive. “While it is far from normal, life goes on in Afghanistan. Armed police hover at street corners, barbed wire decorates the buildings and a thick layer of dust covers everything. But there are bars and restaurants and, like most other cities, Friday night is a big night out. It is sometimes hard to meet people, especially women, but I didn’t come here looking for romance”.
Instead, Brent’s motivation is to help with the reconstruction of the Above: Ben knows the city – he drives an unmarked pickup dangers but loves truck around the region to deliver aid what he does and materials.“I knew of the dangers of being on the front line, but it means that I can see the results first hand too. Most BRENT’S ADVICE of the time you forget that you’re in a O Maintain a low profile – it can help you stay out of trouble. war zone, but you must keep reminding You can’t just wander around a danger zone. yourself of the dangers. Last week I O Many danger zones have very little infrastructure but joined a line of vehicles entering a limited travel may be possible if you prepare in advance. military base. The sniffer dog stopped at Call ahead to make contacts, book drivers, obtain permits the truck in front of me; the bomb it and plan the best – and – safest, route. found was metres from my windscreen.”
ing e photograph il h w e p a c s e I had a narrow radise a troubled pa Name: Suzanne Porter Age: 36 Job: Photographer Danger profile: Fiji, Mauritania, Sierra Leone, Zimbabwe and Burkina Faso Going next: 5,200m up in the Peruvian Andes to photograph alpaca
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uzanne Porter was boarding a flight for Fiji as the New Zealand government handed out papers advising against travel to the islands. “The prime minister had just been kidnapped in a coup and the army were struggling to regain power on the islands. What on earth was I thinking?” Brushing aside her reservations, Suzanne stepped onto the plane.“My friends back home will tell you that I’m no hero, and I don’t put myself in overtly dangerous situations, but I’d
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Above: Suzanne followed her instincts during her trip to volatile Fiji
spoken to some key contacts in Fiji and decided to go ahead with my plans to photograph the island. The word on the ground was that only parts of Fiji would be affected so I booked accommodation on the opposite side.” A curfew was imposed soon after her arrival.“I met a lot of people – locals and foreigners – who were all drawn closer by the situation. As the curfew lasted all night, we ended up having some wild parties as we couldn’t return to our hotels or homes until the morning.
Did the situation test the nerves of a not-very-heroic person? “Making friends on the island allowed me to get closer to the heart of the problem with my camera and I ended up extending my one-month ticket five times. But eventually the conflict hit a popular honeymooner island. I kept on top of the political situation while I was there and at that point, my instincts told me it was time to go. On the day of my flight, Air New Zealand refused to stop on the island but luckily I managed to find a seat on a local airline. It seems that my instincts were right”.
SUZANNE’S ADVICE O Find the right people to talk to and make a judgement.
O Even if you are fearless, others may not be.
O Keep in contact with your hosts, and with friends and family, and don’t underestimate your environment.
WE WANTYOUR TRAVEL STORIES! We’re need your tales of travelling as a familyor travelling in an unusual way (three-legged, by unicycle, etc). Send your story and details toovertoyou@wanderlust.co.ukor Wanderlust (Over to you), PO Box 1832, Windsor SL4 1YT
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