Shape & Form Construction Manual by Sarah

FA107A Introduction To Shape and Form Assessment 3: Garment Construction Folio and Design Outcome Sarah Ho

CONTENTS PAGE

PAGE NO.

Glossary ..................................................................................................................................................................... 3 Shirt Image (Front and Back) and Description .................................................................................................... 4 Shirt Technical Drawing (Front and Back) ........................................................................................................... 5 Third Scale Drawings and Inter-Relationships (Front) ....................................................................................... 6-7 Third Scale Drawings and Inter-Relationships (Back) ........................................................................................ 8-9 Third Scale Drawings and Inter-Relationships (Sleeve) ...................................................................................... 10-11 Shirt Construction Workflow:

I) Preparation ............................................................................................................................................... 12

II) Insert Leather Trimmings To Front Waist Panel (C) ........................................................................ 13

III) Attach Front Vest Panel (B) to Front Waist Panel (C) .................................................................... 14

IV) Attach Front Side Panel (A) to Front Vest Panel (B) ....................................................................... 15

V) Attach Front Waist Panel (C) to Front Peplum ................................................................................. 16

VI) Insert Leather Trimmings To Back Waist Panel (C) ....................................................................... 17

VII) Attach Back Vest Panel (B) to Back Waist Panel (C) .................................................................... 18

VIII) Attach Back Side Panel (A) to Back Vest Panel (B) ...................................................................... 19

IX) Attach Back Waist Panel (C) to Back Peplum .................................................................................. 20

X) Attach Front To Back At Shoulder ...................................................................................................... 21

XI) Attach Leather Trimming To Neckline ............................................................................................. 22

XII) Construct Collar ................................................................................................................................. 23

XIII) Attach Invisible Zipper ..................................................................................................................... 24-25

XIV) Finishing The Collar ......................................................................................................................... 26-27

XV) Sleeve Placket ...................................................................................................................................... 28

XVI) Sleeve and Side Seams ...................................................................................................................... 29-30

XVII) Sleeve Cuff ........................................................................................................................................ 31-32

XIII) Finishings ........................................................................................................................................... 33

Contents Page

GLOSSARY:

Backstitch: This stitchline is sewn in reverse then forward over the same stitches to secure it from unravelling. It is normally sewn at the start and end of a stitch. Basting Stitch: This stitch uses the longest stitch length on the machine and is used as a temporary stitch to hold the fabric layers together. It does not have backstitching. Ditch stitch: This stitch is used as a reinforcing stitch that is sewn over the original stitch line to catch the fabric on the wrong side. Edge stitch: This stitch has a seam allowance of 0.1cm and is used as a decorative stitch. Overlock: With the use of an overlocker machine, this is the most common type of seam finishing which involves trimming any raw edges and binding thread around them, to prevent fraying. Plain Seam: This is the most common type of seam that consists of a straight stitch, starting and ending with backstitch. Right Side (of the fabric): This is the side of fabric that would be viewed externally, without any visible seams, apart from decorative stitches, showing. Seam: Line of stitching used to join the edges of fabrics together. Seam Allowance: The distance between the seamline and the edge of the fabric. Seam Finish: The treatment of securing and neatening the raw edges of a plain seam to prevent unraveling. Topstitch: Using a 0.2-0.3 seam allowance, this stitch helps to secure any edges or seam allowances. Wrong Side (of the fabric): This is the side of fabric that would be viewed internally, with all visible seams showing.

Glossary

SHIRT IMAGE (FRONT AND BACK):

FRONT

BACK

SHIRT DETAILS: • Size 8 • Main Body: 100% Cotton (Perfect White; $29/m, 148cm Width, Tessuti Fabrics) • Vest Panels: 100% Cotton (Cream Mondello Tweed; $59/m, 145cm Width, Tessuti Fabrics) • Leather Fringing: 100% Leather (Cream Leather; $-m, -cm Width, NSW Leather Co. Pty.) • Mandarin Collar • Centre Front (On Fold) • Centre Front Vest Panel (On Fold) • Centre Back Vest Panel • Centre Back Invisible Zipper • Centre Back Hook and Eye • Leather Fringing Along Neckline and Vest Panels • Business Shirt Sleeve • Business Shirt Cuff • Sleeve Placket with 1 Tuck on Each Sleeve • Peplum At Waist • Rolled Hem Shirt Image and Details

SHIRT TECHNICAL DRAWING (FRONT AND BACK):

FRONT

BACK

Shirt Technical Drawings

THIRD SCALE DRAWINGS (FRONT) :

CUT x 1 FRONT VEST PANEL (B) [CONTRAST FABRIC]

CUT x 2 FRONT SIDE PANEL (A)

CUT x 1 FRONT WAIST PANEL (C)

CUT x 1 FRONT PEPLUM

Third Scale Drawings (Front)

INTER-RELATIONSHIPS (FRONT) : A B B

FRONT BODICE

BACK BODICE

C C

1. Pattern Piece Name: Front Panel A Description:  Front Side Panel at Armhole Connects To:  Front Vest Panel B, with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Back Side Panel A at side and shoulder seams with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Sleeve at armhole with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Structural Purpose: Design: Creates curved lines around the sides of the upper chest, which creates visual interest. Technical: Covers and keeps the wearer warm. 2. Pattern Piece Name: Front Panel B Description: Front Vest Panel Connects To:  Mandarin Collar at neckline with an enclosed plain seam and ditch stitched. One row of leather trimming at neckline with a straight stitch. Two rows of leather trimming at bottom curve of vest panel with straight stitching. Front Side Panel A, with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Front Waist Panel C, with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Back Vest Panel B at side seam, with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Structural Purpose: Design: Creates contrast (tweed fabric), giving an interesting feature. Technical: Covers and keeps the wearer warm. 3. Pattern Piece Name: Front Panel C Description: Front Waist Panel Connects To:  Two rows of leather trimming at top curve of front waist panel with straight stitching. Front Vest Panel B, with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Front Peplum, with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Back Waist Panel C at side seam, with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Structural Purpose: Design: Creates curved lines around the abdomen, which creates visual interest. The leather trim also creates textural interest. Technical: Covers and keeps the wearer warm. 4. Pattern Piece Name: Front Peplum Description: Front Flared Peplum Connects To:  Front Waist Panel C, with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Back Peplum at side seam, with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Structural Purpose: Design: Gives wearer a flared silhouette and volume at waist. Technical: Covers and keeps the wearer warm.

Inter-Relationships (Front)

CUT x 2 BACK PEPLUM

CUT x 2 BACK WAIAST PANEL (C)

CUT x 2 BACK SIDE PANEL (A)

CUT x 2 BACK VEST PANEL (B) [CONTRAST FABRIC]

CUT x 4 COLLAR CUT x 2 INTERFACING

THIRD SCALE DRAWINGS (BACK) :

Third Scale Drawings (Back)

INTER-RELATIONSHIPS (BACK) : 5. Pattern Piece Name: Collar Description: Mandarin Collar Connects To: Front Vest Panel B at neckline with an enclosed plain seam and ditch stitched. One row of leather trimming at neckline with an enclosed straight stitch. Back Vest Panel B at neckline with plain seam an enclosed plain seam and ditch stitched. Structural Purpose: Design: Frames the face, enhancing garment and wearer’s appearance. Technical: Protects neck and provides warmth.

A B B

FRONT BODICE

BACK BODICE

C C

6. Pattern Piece Name: Back Panel A Description:  Back Side Panel at armhole Connects To:  Back Vest Panel B, with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Front Side Panel A at side and shoulder seams with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Sleeve at armhole with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Structural Purpose: Design: Creates curved lines around the sides of the upper chest, which creates visual interest. Technical: Covers and keeps the wearer warm. 7. Pattern Piece Name: Back Panel B Description: Back Vest Panel Connects To:  Mandarin collar at neckline with an enclosed plain seam and ditch stitched. One row of leather trimming at neckline with a straight stitch. Two rows of leather trimming at bottom curve of vest panel with straight stitching. Back Side Panel A, with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Back Waist Panel C, with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Front Vest Panel B at side seam, with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Structural Purpose: Design: Creates contrast (tweed fabric), giving an interesting feature Technical: Covers and keeps the wearer warm. 8. Pattern Piece Name: Back Panel C Description: Back Waist Panel Connects To:  Two rows of leather trimming at top curve of front waist panel with straight stitching. Back Vest Panel B, with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Back Peplum, with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Front Waist Panel C at side seam, with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Structural Purpose: Design: Creates curved lines around the abdomen, which creates visual interest. The leather trim also creates textural interest. Technical: Covers and keeps the wearer warm. 9. Pattern Piece Name: Back Peplum Description: Back Flared Peplum Connects To:  Back Waist Panel C, with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Front Peplum at side seam, with a plain seam, overlocked closed. Structural Purpose: Design: Gives wearer a flared silhouette and volume at waist. Technical: Covers and keeps the wearer warm. Inter-Relationships (Back)

CUT x 2 SLEEVE CUFF CUT x 2 INTERFACING

CUT x 2 SLEEVE PLACKET

CUT x 2 SLEEVE

THIRD SCALE DRAWINGS (SLEEVE) :

Third Scale Drawings (Sleeve)

INTER-RELATIONSHIPS (SLEEVE) : A B B

FRONT BODICE

BACK BODICE

C C

10. Pattern Piece Name: Sleeve Description: Business Shirt Sleeve with one tuck Connects To:  Front panel A at the armhole with a plain seam overlocked closed. Back panel A at the armhole with a plain seam overlocked closed. Sleeve Placket at slit opening, with enclosed straight stitching and ditch stitched. Sleeve Cuff with an enclosed plain seam and ditch stitched. Structural Purpose: Design: Gives wearer a smart casual look. Technical: Covers the wearer; allows for movement & comfort at the arms. 11. Pattern Piece Name: Sleeve Placket Description: Business Shirt Sleeve Placket Connects To: Shirt Sleeve with enclosed straight stitch and ditch stitch. Sleeve Cuff with enclosed plain seam and ditch stitching. Structural Purpose: Design: Smart casual shirt opening. Technical: Covers the raw edges of the placket slit. Gives more room for the wearer’s hand to go through. 12. Pattern Piece Name: Sleeve Cuff Description: Business Shirt Sleeve Cuff Connects To: Sleeve with enclosed plain seam and ditch stitching. Sleeve Placket with ditch stitching. Structural Purpose: Design: Gives sleeve a professional finished look. Technical: Covers and keeps the wearer’s wrist warm. Pulls in the volume created by the tuck on the sleeve.

Inter-Relationships (Sleeve)

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn.

SHIRT CONSTRUCTION WORKFLOW (PREPARATION): Before Sewing.. Interface the glue (textured side) of interfacing onto the wrong side of the necessary pattern pieces (refer to Third Scale Drawings, pages 6-8 for details).

interfacing wrong side of fabric

Note: **Plain seam allowances are 1.5cm unless otherwise stated and they start and end with backstitch. **As leather cannot be pinned, use doublesided tape to temporarily lay it flat when inserting into seams.

Sew a basting stitch (using 1cm seam allowance) to insert tear away facing onto curved edges of the appropriate pattern pieces (Refer to diagram below). Remove tear away when each step of sewing a plain seam and pressing the seam allowance is complete.

side dart press down

FRONT BODICE

BACK BODICE

Shirt Construction Workflow: Preparation

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn.

SHIRT CONSTRUCTION WORKFLOW (INSERT LEATHER TRIMMINGS TO FRONT WAIST PANEL (C)):

3cm width 4cm width

1cm basting stitch

3cm width 4cm width

1cm basting stitch 1cm basting stitch

1. Using 1.2cm-width double-sided tape, tape the

wrong side of the 3cm-width leather trimming to the right side of the 4cm-width leather trimmings, edges flushes. Run a 1cm basting stitch through both layers of trimming and remove the double-sided tape.

0.3cm trims

3. Using the double-sided tape again, place1cm thebasting wrong stitch 3cm width 4cm width

1cm basting stitch

side of the 4cm-width leather trimming to the right 0.3cmoftrims side of the top curve front waist panel (C) of the front bodice. Ensure that the edges are flushed.

1cm basting stitch

3cm 2. width Starting with0.3cm the bottom trims layer of trimming (4cm-

4cmwidth), width snip the leather into 0.3cm trims, leaving 1cmThis basting 1.2cm seam allowance from the edge. creates the stitch

fringing. Repeat for the top layer of trimming (3cmwidth).

1cm basting stitch 0.3cm trims

4. Sew a straight stitch with 1cm seam allowance,

inserting of leather trimming to front 1cm seamthe two rows backstitch allowance waist panel (C).

1cm seam allowance

backstitch

0.5cm seam allowance

1cm seam allowance

backstitch

0.5cm seam allowance

Shirt Construction Workflow: Attach Leather Trimmings To Front Waist Panel (C)

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn.

SHIRT CONSTRUCTION WORKFLOW (ATTACH FRONT VEST PANEL (B) TO FRONT WAIST PANEL (C)): front vest panel B

overlock seam allowance closed

1. With right sides facing together, use double tape

to stick front vest panel (B) to front waist panel (C) and sew a plain seam. Remove all double sided tape (including those1.5cm fromseam the previous step) and basting backstitch allowance stitches. front vest panel B

1.5cm seam allowance

backstitch front waist panel

front vest panel B

4. Press the overlocked seam allowance upwards, in the direction towards front vest panel (B).

1.5cm seam allowance front vest panel B

1.5cm seam allowance

1.5cm seam

front vestallowance panel B

backstitch

front vest panel B backstitch

backstitch

trim half of leather seam allowance

2. Trim the1.5cm seam allowance of the leather trimmings front vest panel B seam backstitch down to halfallowance the original width. trim half of leather front waist panel C seam allowance front vest panel B 1.5cm seam allowance front vest panel B

1.5cm seam allowance front vest panel B front vest panel B

front vest panel B

Press up towards B

backstitch trim half of leather seam allowance overlock seam

backstitch allowance closed trim half of leather seam allowance

5. Snip into the seam allowance at 1cm intervals, along the curve, so that the seam sits flat.

overlock seam allowance closed front vest panel B

overlock seamand press 3. Overlock the seam allowance closed allowance closed

upwards, in the direction towards front vest panel front vest panel B (B).

front vest panel B

overlock seam allowance closed

Snip in at 1cm intervals front waist panel C

front vest panel B

Snip in at 1cm intervals

front vest panel B

front waist panel C

Snip in at 1cm intervals

front vest panel B

Shirt Construction Workflow: Attach Front Vest Panel (B) to Front Waist Panel (C)

front waist panel C

front vest panel B

1.5cm seam allowance

SHIRT CONSTRUCTION WORKFLOW (ATTACH FRONT SIDE PANEL (A) TO FRONT VEST PANEL (B)):

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn. backstitch backstitch 1.5cm seam allowance

overlock seam close 1.5cm seam overlock seam close allowance

1.5cm seam allowance

1. With right sides facing together, pin left-front side

panel (A) to front vest panel (B) and sew a plain seam.

3. Press the seam allowance towards centre front.

backstitch

1.5cm seam allowance 1.5cm seam allowance

backstitch

front waist panel B 1.5cm seam allowance

1.5cm seam allowance

2. Overlock the seam allowance closed. overlock seam close

1.5cm seam allowance 1.5cm seam allowance

overlock seam close

front waist panel B

Press towards centre front

Press towards centre front side panel A front

4. Snip front side panel A into the seam allowance at 1cm intervals, along the curve, so that the seam sits flat. Repeat for the right-front side panel (A).

Snip in at 1cm intervals

front waist panel B 1.5cm seam allowance 1.5cm seam allowance Press towards centre front Press towards centre front

front waist panel B

Snip in at 1cm intervals

Shirt Construction Workflow: Attach Front Side Panel (A) to Front Vest Panel (B)

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn.

SHIRT CONSTRUCTION WORKFLOW (ATTACH FRONT WAIST PANEL (C) TO FRONT PEPLUM):

1.5cm seam allowance

backstitch

front peplum

1. With right sides facing together, pin front waist

panel (C) to the front peplum and sew a plain seam.

1.5cm seam allowance

backstitch

front peplum

overlock seam allowance closed

front peplum 1.5cm seam allowance

backstitch

3. Press the seam allowance upwards, in the direction towards front waist panel (C).

front peplum front waist panel C

overlock seam allowance closed

front peplumthe seam allowance closed. 2. Overlock

front peplum Press up towards C

front peplum

overlock seam allowance closed

front waist panel C

front waist panel C front peplum Press up towards C Shirt Construction Workflow: Attach Front Waist Panel (C) to Front Peplum

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn.

SHIRT CONSTRUCTION WORKFLOW (INSERT LEATHER TRIMMINGS TO BACK WAIST PANELS (C)):

3cm width 4cm width

1cm basting stitch

3cm width 4cm width

1cm basting stitch 1cm basting stitch

1. Using 1.2cm-width double-sided tape, tape the

0.3cm trims

3. Using the double-sided tape again, place1cm thebasting wrong stitch 3cm width 4cm width

1cm basting stitch

side of the 4cm-width leather trimming to the right 0.3cmoftrims side of the top curve left-front waist panel (C) of the front bodice. Ensure that the edges are flushed.

1cm basting stitch

3cm 2. width Starting with0.3cm the bottom trims layer of trimming (4cm-

4cmwidth), width snip the leather into 0.3cm trims, leaving 1cmThis basting 1.2cm seam allowance from the edge. creates the stitch

fringing. Repeat for the top layer of trimming (3cmwidth).

4. Sew a straight stitch with 1cm seam allowance,

inserting of leather trimming to left1cm seamthe two rows backstitch allowance front waist panel (C). Repeat steps for right-front waist panel (C).

1cm basting stitch 0.3cm trims

1cm seam allowance

backstitch

0.5cm seam allowance

1cm seam allowance

backstitch

0.5cm seam allowance

Shirt Construction Workflow: Attach Leather Trimmings To Back Waist Panel (C)

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn.

SHIRT CONSTRUCTION WORKFLOW (ATTACH BACK VEST PANEL (B) TO BACK WAIST PANEL (C)):

back vest panel B

overlock seam allowance closed

1. With right sides facing together, use double tape to stick left-back vest panel (B) to left-back waist panel (C) and sew a plain seam. Remove all double sided tape (including those from the previous step) and 1.5cm seam backstitch basting stitches. allowance

back vest panel B seam 1.5cm allowance

backstitch

back vest panel B

back waist panel C 4. Press the seam allowance upwards, in the 1.5cm seam allowance

1.5cm seam

back vest panel B allowance

1.5cm seam back vest panel B allowance

direction towards left-back vest panel (B).

backstitch

backstitch backstitch

back vest panel B

trim half of leather seam allowance vestthe panel B seam 2.back Trim seam allowance of the leather trimmings 1.5cm backstitch down to halfallowance the original width. trim half of leather seam allowance back vest panel B back waist panel C 1.5cm seam allowance back vest1.5cm panelseam B

allowance

back vest panel B back vest panel B

back vest panel B

Press up towards B

backstitch

trim half of leather seam allowance

trim half of leather seam allowance overlock seam allowance closed overlock seam allowance closed

5. Snip into the seam allowance at 1cm intervals, along the curve, so that the seam sits flat.

Repeat for the right-back vest panel (B) and rightback waist panel (C).

3. Overlock the seam allowance closed. back vest panel B

back vest panel B

overlock seam allowance closed

back vest panel B Snip in at 1cm intervals

overlock seam allowance closed back waist panel C

back vest panel SnipBin at 1cm intervals

back waist panel C Snip in at 1cm intervals

back vest panel B

back vest panel B back waist panel C

Shirt Construction Workflow: Attach Back Vest Panel (B) to Back Waist Panel (C)

back vest panel B

Snip in at 1cm intervals

**Forbackstitch illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn.

1.5cm seam allowance

SHIRT CONSTRUCTION WORKFLOW (ATTACH BACK SIDE PANEL (A) TO BACK VEST PANEL (B)):

1.5cm seam allowance

backstitch

1.5cm seam allowance

overlock seam close

1.5cm seam allowance

1. With right sides facing together, pin left-back side panel (A) to left-back vest panel (B) and sew a plain seam.

3. Press the seam allowance towards centre front.

backstitch

1.5cm seam allowance 1.5cm seam allowance

backstitch back waist panel B 1.5cm seam allowance

back waist panel B 1.5cm seam allowance

2. Overlock the seam allowance closed. overlock seam close

1.5cm seam allowance 1.5cm seam allowance

overlock seam close

Press towards centre front

back side panel A

Press towards centre front

4. Snip into the seam allowance at 1cm intervals,

back side panel alongAthe curve, so that the seam sits flat.

Repeat for the right-back side panel (A) and rightback vest panel (B). Snip in at 1cm intervals

back waist panel B 1.5cm seam allowance 1.5cm seam allowance Press towards centre front Press towards centre front

back waist panel B

Snip in at 1cm intervals

Shirt Construction Workflow: Attach Back Side Panel (A) to Back Vest Panel (B)

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn.

SHIRT CONSTRUCTION WORKFLOW (ATTACH FRONT WAIST PANEL (C) TO FRONT PEPLUM):

1.5cm seam allowance

backstitch

back peplum

1. With right sides facing together, pin left-back waist panel (C) to the left-back peplum and sew a plain seam.

1.5cm seam allowance

backstitch

3. Press the seam allowance upwards, in the direction towards left-back waist panel (C).

back peplum 1.5cm seam allowance

back peplum

overlock seam allowance closed

backstitch

Repeat for the right-back waist panel (C) and the right-back peplum.

back peplum back waist panel C

overlock seam

2. Overlock the seam allowance closed.closed allowance back peplum

back peplum

overlock seam allowance closed

Press up towards C

back waist panel C

back waist panel C back peplum Press up towards C

Shirt Construction Workflow: Attach Back Waist Panel (C) to Back Peplum

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn. backstitch

SHIRT CONSTRUCTION WORKFLOW 1.5cm seam (ATTACH FRONT TO BACK AT THE allowance SHOULDER):

1. With right sides facing together, pin frontseam side overlock

closed panel (A) to back side panel (A) onallowance both right and left 1.5cmseam seamon each shoulder. shoulders. Sew a plain allowance

1.5cm seam allowance 1.5cm seam allowance

backstitch backstitch

3. Press the seam allowances towards the back bodice.

2. Overlock the seam allowances closed. 1.5cm seam allowance 1.5cm seam allowance

overlock seam allowance closed overlock seam allowance closed

Press towards back bodice

Shirt Construction Workflow: Attach Front To Back At Shoulder

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn.

SHIRT CONSTRUCTION WORKFLOW (ATTACH LEATHER TRIMMING TO NECKLINE):

1. Snip into the leather at 0.3cm increments, leaving

0.3cm seam allowance from the edge. This creates the fringing.

2.1cm width

2.1cm width 0.3cm trims

0.3cm trims

2. Using 0.3cm-width double-sided tape, tape the wrong side of the 2.1cm-width leather trimming to the entire neckline (front and back), edges flushes. Run a 0.3cm basting stitch through both layers of trimming and fabric and remove the double-sided tape.

BACK BODICE stitch

BACK BODICE

stitch

BACK BODICE

FRONT BODICE

Shirt Construction Workflow: Attach Leather Trimming To Neckline

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn.

SHIRT CONSTRUCTION WORKFLOW (CONSTRUCT COLLAR):

Fold up 0.6cm seam allowance under collar stand

1. Press the 0.6cm seam allowance of the neck edge of the under collar upwards.

0.6cm seam allowance backstitch

3. Matching at the shoulder and centre front

under collarnotches, stand

sew a plain seam, attaching the outer collar to the neckline and press the seam allowance up.

Fold up 0.6cm seam allowance

Repeat this step for the right collar. backstitch

under collar stand

2. With right sides of the collar facing each

Press seam allowance up

other, pin and sew a plain seam, with 0.6cm seam Fold up 0.6cm allowance, seam allowanceon the top edge. 0.6cm

under collar outer collar

seam allowance

under Press the seam allowance up, towards the under backstitch collar stand collar.

centre back

1.5 cm seam allowance

0.6 cm seam allowance

shoulder notch pin under collar stand over original stitchline centre front edge stitch

under collar stand

0.6cm seam allowance

backstitch

1.5 cm seam allowance

backstitch pin under collar stand over original stitchline Press seam allowance up under collar outer collar

under collar stand

edge stitch

centre back 0.6 cm seam allowance shoulder notch

backstitch

centre front

Shirt Construction Workflow: Construct Collar

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn.

SHIRT CONSTRUCTION WORKFLOW (ATTACH INVISIBLE ZIPPER):

2 cm seam allowance

**Change from a straight stitch foot to an invisible zipper foot.

1. Sew a plain seam with basting stitch (with 2cm seam allowance) along the entire centre back.

1cm away from overlocked edge

backstitch 0.5cm below top edge of collar

Collar

backstitch

1cm away from Back Bodice overlocked edge

3. Open the zipper. Place the right side of the zip to 2 cm seam allowance

0.5cm below top

Collar the right side garment (0.5cm below top edge edgeof of the collar of collar), with zipper coil on seam line (1cm away from edge) and pin. Roll zipper coil open flat with Back Bodice finger, leaving only zipper tape visible. 2 cm seam allowance

1cm away from overlocked edge

0.5cm below top edge of collar

2. Press the seam allowance open. Overlock the seam allowance open.

Collar Back Bodice

Remove the basting stitch.

1cm away from overlocked edge

Collar

0.5cm below top edge of collar

Collar

Back Bodice

Collar

Back Bodice

1cm away from overlocked edge 0.5cm below top edge of collar

Collar

Back Bodice

Collar Back Bodice

Shirt Construction Workflow: Attach Invisible Zipper

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn.

4. Centre needle over unrolled coil. Lower foot (with

coil in groove of foot) and starting with backstitch, stitch down to the base of the zip. Back stitch to finish. Snip threads.

5. Close the zipper. Close the remaining centre back by sewing a plain seam (using 2cm seam allowance).

Repeat for other side of garment and zip. 1cm away from overlocked edge

5cm below top edge of collar backstitch 0.5cm below top edge of collar

Collar

1cm away from overlocked edge Collar Back Bodice

Collar

Back Bodice

Collar

Back Bodice

eam ance

2cm seam allowance

Collar Back Bodice

Shirt Construction Workflow: Attach Invisible Zipper

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn.

SHIRT CONSTRUCTION WORKFLOW (FINISHING THE COLLAR):

**Change from the invisible zipper foot to the right or left zipper foot (according to which side the collar is being sewn).

1. Place the right collar rightBack sides together Bodice

slash the corner 3. Trim the corner. slash the corner slash the corner

Back Bodice Back Bodice

Back Bodice

Back BackBodice Bodice slash the corner Back Bodice

Back Bodice

4. Turn the collar through with a point turner. 2. Close the centre back with a plain seam (2cm seam

Repeat for the left collar (using left zipper foot).

allowance). backstitch backstitch

2cm 2cmseam seam allowance allowance

backstitch

2cm seam allowance

backstitch

2cm seam allowance

Turn Turncollar collarthrough through Turn collar through Back BackBodice Bodice

Back BackBodice Bodice Back Bodice

Back Bodice Turn collar through

Back Bodice

Shirt Construction Workflow: Finishing The Collar

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn.

5. On the right collar, pin the under collar past the

original stitchline on the wrong side of the garment. Sew an edge stitch above the collar seam (at neckline) on the right side of the outer collar. Repeat for the left collar. Outsource the hook and eye opening at the top of the collar, above the invisible zipper head. 1.5 cm seam allowance

pin under collar stand over original stitchline

edge stitch

p under collar outer collar centre back

am ce

Shirt Construction Workflow: Finishing The Collar

0.6 cm seam

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn. allowance backstitch SLEEVE SHIRT CONSTRUCTION WORKFLOW (SLEEVE PLACKET): OPENING

placket

1. Carefully slash towards the stiletto hole on the sleeve. This is the placket opening. stilettostiletto hole hole

backstitch

0.7cm seam allowance

0.7cm seam basting stitch allowance tuck

slash towards stiletto hole

stiletto hole

basting stitch

fold over tuck over so that the right side 4. Turn the sleeve 0.6 cm seam

slash towards stiletto hole

faces up. allowance Fold the placket under, just passing the original stitchline and ditch stich the placket on 2. Place the sleeve on the table, wrong sides0.7cm up.seam allowance 0.6 cm seam the right side of the fabric. allowance Place the right side of the placket to backstitch the rightbasting side stitch stiletto hole slash towards tuck of the sleeve opening. Spread stiletto hole open the slashed part SLEEVE of the sleeve and pin both pieces together. Sew a OPENING backstitch 0.6 cm seam plain seam with 0.6cm seam allowance. allowance backstitch 0.7cm seam

allowance

SLEEVE OPENING

slash towards

placket stiletto hole

basting stitch

0.6 cm seam tuck allowance backstitch

ditch stitch

SLEEVE OPENING

placket

0.6 cm seam backstitch allowance backstitch

SLEEVE placket OPENING

5. Press the placket in the final position for it to be attached to the cuff. The placket on the front sleeve folds over that of the back sleeve.

3.Press the seam allowance towards the

placket and press up 0.6cm of the unsewn seam placket allowance. fold over backstitch 0.6 cm seam allowance

fold under, past original stitchline

backstitch

FRONT SLEEVE

backstitch

ditch stitch fold over 0.6 cm seam allowance

backstitch

fold over fold over 0.6 seam cm seam 0.6 cm allowance allowance

FRONT SLEEVE FRONT SLEEVE

ditch stitch ditch stitch backstitch

fold under, past original stitchline backstitch

BACK SLEEVE

FRONT SLEEVE BACK SLEEVE

BACK SLEEVE ditch stitch Shirt Construction Workflow: Sleeve Placket

BACK SLE

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn. basting stitch

SHIRT CONSTRUCTION WORKFLOW (SLEEVE AND SIDE SEAMS):

FRONT BODICE

1. On the sleeve, match the 1st notch to the 2nd,

1.5cm seam allowance

having the tuck face towards the placket and pin to hold. Using the longest stitch on the machine, baste in the tuck with a 0.6 cm seam allowance. FRONT SLEEVE

FRONT BODICE

allowance

basting stitch

tuck

1.5 cm seam 1.5cm seam allowance allowance

tuck

1.5 cm seam allowance

BACK BODICE

2. On the right side of the sleeve, sew a basting basting stitch

seam allowance overlocked closed

Press armhole seam allowance towards bodice

1.5 cm seam allowance

stitch along the upper armhole.

Press armhole seam allowance towards bodice

Press side seam allowance towards back bodice

basting stitch

tuck

backstitch

press towards

Press side seam allowance towards back bodice bodice

SHIRT SLEEVE

0.6cm seam allowance basting stitch

SHIRT S

3. Sew a plain seam along the armhole.

BACK SLEEVE ditch stitch 0.6cm seam 0.6cm seam allowance

press to bod

Press side seam allowance towards back bodice

allowance towards 4. Press the seam allowance towards bodice the bodice Press armhole seam

overlock seams closed

and overlock the seam closed. basting stitch

overlock seams closed

FRONT BODICE overlock seams

BACK BODICE

closed

1.5cm seam allowance

press towards BACK bodice BODICE

FRONT BODICE

SHIRT SLEEVE

1.5cm seam press towards allowance FRONT BODICE bodice SHIRT SLEEVE

FRONT BODICE

1.5cm seam allowance

press towards bodice

press towards

backstitch BACK BODICE

backstitch

seam allowance overlocked closed

seam allowance overlocked closed backstitch

bodice BACK BODICE

SHIRT SLEEVE Shirt Construction Workflow: Sleeve Side Seams seamand allowance overlocked closed backstitch

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn.

5. With right sides of the sleeves and shirt bodice facing each other, respectively, sew a plain seam, starting from the peplum hem, working all the way along the side seam and up the sleeve seam. Press the seam allowance to the back and overlock the seam closed.

1.5 cm seam allowance

Press side seam allowance towards back bodice Press armhole seam allowance towards bodice

overlock seams closed

FRONT BODICE

1.5cm seam allowance

BACK BODICE

press towards bodice SHIRT SLEEVE

backstitch

seam allowance overlocked closed Shirt Construction Workflow: Sleeve and Side Seams

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn. 1.5 cm seam allowance

SHIRT CONSTRUCTION WORKFLOW (SLEEVE CUFF):

backstitch

1. Press seam allowance of inner cuff up 1.5cm.

Fold the cuff over, in half, right sides facing each other. fold cuff over in half

fold cuff over in half Press 1.5cm seam allowance up on fold cuff over in half inner cuff Press 1.5cm seam allowance up on inner cuff Press 1.5cm seam fold allowance cuff over up on in half inner cuff

4. Using a point turner, turn the cuff right sides out and press.

1.5 cm seam allowance

2. Sew a plain seam on both short edgesPress of the 1.5cm seam folded cuff.

allowance up on 1.5 cm seam inner cuff allowance 1.5 cm seam allowance backstitch 1.5 cm seam allowance backstitch backstitch

ditchstitch

ditchstitch under cuff ditchstitch

outer cuff

under cuff

5.under Pin cuff the right side of cuff the outer cuff to the right outer sideditchstitch of the sleeve, with edges flushed. Spread out outer cuff the ease on the sleeve and pin. Sew a plain seam using a 1.5cm seam allowance. under cuff

backstitch

outer cuff

3. Trim the corners away. 1.5 cm seam allowance

1.5 cm seam allowance 1.5 cm seam allowance

1.5 cm seam allowance Shirt Construction Workflow: Sleeve Cuff

m seam e up on ner cuff

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn.

6. Turn the cuff, pinning the under cuff (with 1.5cm

seam allowance folded under) over the original stitch line (on the wrong side of the sleeve). Ditch stitch on the outer cuff, through all layers, catching the under cuff seam allowance. Outsource the buttonholes and buttons for the cuff.

ditchstitch

under cuff outer cuff

1.5 cm seam allowance

Shirt Construction Workflow: Sleeve Cuff

**For illustration purposes, sections of the garment are drawn.

SHIRT CONSTRUCTION WORKFLOW (FINISHINGS):

Fold up 0.7cm (first time), fold up 0.8cm (second time)

Folding under gives a clean finish

1. Fold the hem upwards 0.7cm and press. Fold the hem again, upwards 0.8cm and press.

2. Topstitch using a 0.6cm seam allowance on the right side of the fabric. 0.6cm topstitch

Fold up 0.7cm (first time), fold up 0.8cm (second time)

Backstitch

Folding under gives a clean finish

3. Do a final press and quality check. 0.6cm topstitch

FRONT

Backstitch

BACK Shirt Construction Workflow: Finishings