THE P RO C E S S O F
COUTURE
“You’re a marvel, Sarah.
The dress is breathtaking and the process was priceless.” –Angie, mother-of-the-bride
2
CONTENTS Introduction to Couture
4
Couture Process: The Five Phases
6
1. Planning Phase
8
2. Design Phase
10
3. First Prototype
12
4. Second Prototype
14
5. Final Garment
16
Couture Examples
18
Contact
28
Introduction to Couture
1 4
Introduction to Couture The couture creative process is inspiring for the client and the designer. Your vision plus the designer’s expertise will co-create a beautiful garment that will allow you to feel elegant and confident. It will be a reflection of you inside and out. The creation that will be designed just for you is more than wonderful fabric and excellent fit. It will become part of you and express your personality. A true uplifting experience!
Couture Process: The Five Phases
16
Initial Consultation Design Ideation Materials Sourcing Pricing Estimate Second Consultation
Client’s Body Measurements Taken
2 | DESIGN PHASE
Draping
Digitizing Patternmaking
3 | FIRST PROTOTYPE
Cut & Sew
First Prototype Fitting on Client
4 | SECOND PROTOTYPE (if needed) Patternmaking Changes
Cut & Sew
Second Prototype Fitting on Client
5 | FINAL GARMENT
Patternmaking Changes
Cut & Sew
Final Fitting on Client
Alterations (if needed)
Hand Finishing Details
Couture Process: The Five Phases
1 | PLANNING PHASE
1 | PLANNING PHASE STEPS Initial Consultation Design Ideation Materials Sourcing Pricing Estimate Second Consultation Body Measurements Taken
The beginning of the couture project is very exciting! What is it that you are dreaming of? Something you have always wanted but couldn’t find on-the-rack? Or maybe it is a special garment for a once-in-a-lifetime occasion. The Planning Phase of the Process begins with these ideas and talking through possibilities together. At our first consultation, it is encouraged to bring inspirational images to convey your ideas. Once there is a firm direction in the vision of the garment, and an idea of what materials will be used, a preliminary pricing estimate will be created. With ideas in mind, materials will be sourced and sample swatches ordered.
What to wear for body measurements? • Please wear tight leggings and a tight fitting top so we can get the measurements as accurate as possible.
At our second consultation, we will review the sample swatches, firm up design details and review the pricing estimate. At this appointment we will also conduct comprehensive body measurements.
8
1 | Planning Phase A Couture Wedding Gown for Erica • The bride collected many inspirational images with different elements she was looking for in her dream gown • A slim silhouette with long statement sleeves • Non-traditional color palette of golden yellow and ivory • Open back feature with a demure neckline
2 | DESIGN PHASE STEPS Draping Digitizing Patternmaking
The design of a couture garment begins with draping fabric on the form. This tactile technique utilizing fabric the garment will be made from (or a fabric of similar quality) is the best way to achieve the design and silhouette of the garment. Sarah learned and honed her draping skills at the London College of Fashion, one of the premier schools for couture fashion design. Once the draping has been completed, markings are made directly onto the fabric. The draping is then removed from the form and flattened out. From there, the pieces are placed on a digitizer mat and the design is inputted into the computer. Utilizing pattenmaking software (StyleCAD), Sarah then cleans up the digital pattern, adds additional details and readies the pattern for production. The aid of the digital system (digitizer, software and a large-scale plotter printer) makes the design process faster and more efficient. Pattern changes can easily be made in the system, while keeping copies of previous versions.
10
Flat pattern drafted in StyleCAD and printed to scale on the plotter printer
2 | Design Phase
Draping the silhouette on the dress form
3 | FIRST PROTOTYPE STEPS Cut & Sew First Prototype Fitting
What to bring to the first fitting? • Shoes of the approximate height you would wear with this garment. • Appropriate undergarments, specialty bras and/or shapewear.
The pattern is done and now we are ready to cut the first prototype. Usually a test fabric, like a muslin or something of similar quality to the final fabric will be used to conserve cost. We can also opt to cut directly into the final fabric if preferred or recommended due to the nature of the fabric qualities. The first prototype is cut and sewn into the first sample. Usually the first prototype does not have finishings like hems or closures. Think of the first prototype as the first iteration of the masterpiece. During the first prototype fitting we will look at the overall fit and pin changes in place. We note the appropriate hem length and discuss any design or fit changes. If there are no major changes to the pattern/ design we can proceed to Phase 5: The Final Garment. If there are some issues or redesigning to do we will proceed to the Second Prototype Phase.
12
Decided on the wing shape instead of the fitted sleeve in this sleeve sample
3 | First Prototype
First prototype has two different sleeve shapes as requested by the client and is sewn in a test fabric
4 | SECOND PROTOTYPE STEPS Patternmaking Changes Cut & Sew Second Prototype Fitting
What to bring to the second fitting? • The actual shoes you will be wearing with this garment. • The actual undergarments you will be wearing with this garment including specialty bras and/or shapewear.
Design changes and adjustments are made to the pattern. The revised pattern is printed and cut out. The garment is usually cut in the final fabric in this phase so we can see how it will look and drape in its final state. During the second prototype fitting we will make sure that all design changes have been implemented to our satisfaction and pin any additional minor adjustments. If the garment is cut from the final fabric we can finish the garment as the final rendition. If there are additional pattern/design changes we will proceed to Phase 5: The Final Garment.
14
Second prototype is sewn without sleeves attached in order to test out a single vs. double layer sleeve as requested by client
4 | Second Prototype
Pieces cut and ready to be sewn together
5 | FINAL GARMENT STEPS Patternmaking Changes Cut & Sew Final Fitting Alterations (if needed) Hand Finishing Details
What to bring to the final fitting? • The actual shoes you will be wearing with this garment. • The actual undergarments you will be wearing with this garment including specialty bras and/or shapewear.
All adjustments and changes from the previous fitting(s) are made to the pattern. If the changes are very minor they can be made to the prototype and finished as the final garment. During the final fitting we will make sure the garment fits perfectly. Some hand finishing details may be saved until after the fitting to ensure there are no final changes. Couture finishings may include: hand sewing sequins, hand sewing lace appliques, covered buttons, covered hook & eye closures, invisible hems and other techniques. All of these hand finishings can be time consuming but put the couture finishing touches on this very special one-of-a-kind garment.
16
Final fitting with hems pinned and some hand finishing details to be completed.
5 | Final Garment
Final Garment Cut & Sewn
Danielle Nicole at the GRAMMYs
1 18
Number of Hours: 97 First Prototype Second Prototype Final Garment
Couture Examples
Inspired by Danielle’s blues/rock music, we decided on a dark blue gown with lots of texture in the form of lace and feathers, with gold accents.
Jennifer at the Golden Gala
1 20
Number of Hours: 98 First Prototype Second Prototype Final Garment
Couture Examples
We created a very regal two piece couture look for Jennifer’s inaugural Golden Gala: a sheath dress in crinkled silk chiffon paired with a sequined cape in rose gold tones.
Camille’s Special RED Event
1 22
Number of Hours: 61 First Prototype Final Garment
Couture Examples
Camille was hosting a very special fundraiser with an interesting caveat: there was a color theme, RED! This couture jumpsuit combined an alluring. overlapping neckline with contrast sequins.
Gabrielle in “Dancing with the Stars”
1 24
Number of Hours: 96 First Prototype Second Prototype Final Garment
Couture Examples
Gabrielle’s “Dancing with the Kansas City Stars” couture costume was a reflection of her personality and style. The dress was made from stretch black velvet with ivory silk cuffs and a completely removable collar/sash.
Gabrielle’s Red Carpet Look
1 26
Number of Hours: 36 First Prototype Final Garment
Couture Examples
Channeling the mirror ball trophy, Gabrielle wanted a statement look to wear prior to her big performance. This couture silver sequined jumpsuit brought out her star qualities.
“You, my sweet beautiful friend,
are the magic maker—You not only made extraordinary outfits for all the special events this year — YOU also were with me to encourage and support....Thank you is only the beginning!” –Gabrielle
28
Contact GET STARTED CREATING THE GARMENT OF YOUR DREAMS! Email sarah@sarah-nelsen.com Phone 816 714 6683 Website sarah-nelsen.com Studio 1600 Genessee Street Suite 520 Kansas City, MO 64102