ISSUE - #1 Model REBECCA EVERETT
Y O U
Photos SARAH YOUNG
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Spring 17
YouthXi-D Rebecca wears ADIDAS
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the p or ni f i c a t i on o f f a s h i on p ho to g r a p h y The proliferation of hyper-sexualised imagery featuring underage models in high culture fashion magazines, and in the advertisement of some of the world’s most loved fashion brands has led us to question, where do we draw the line?
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TEXT SARAH YOUNG It’s hard to ignore the conspicuous rise in how young model’s bodies and sexuality have been fetishized in the media. Flick through any fashion editorial and you’re sure to come across advertisements where the intended focus is more-so directed at a young girls’ buttocks, rather than the skirt being modelled. In some cases, it’s hard to distinguish what clothes (if any) are being advertised. The iconography of pornography has become stylish as it is adopted by the world of fashion and advertising. Our visual culture has become crowded with explicit images of sex, giving a whole new meaning to the notion that ‘sex sells’. This has left us with an industry that is slowly transforming into a platform for misogyny as it overflows with naked adolescent girls. American Apparel’s notorious reputation is something we’ve all become accustomed to hearing about in the news. Whether it’s regarding the booting of their sex pest CEO in 2014 or their risqué ad campaigns starring underage models and porn stars. We’ve heard it all before. However, with their UK business going into administration earlier this month for the final time, resulting in the closure of their UK stores and online presence, could this be a sign that as consumers of the industry we no longer wish to be faced with images of sexualised pre-pubescent teens, everywhere we turn? Let this be a subtle hint that we’re not buying into this particular image anymore. It’s time for industry creatives to stop blurring the line between pornography and fashion photography. More so now than ever, there have been copious cases re-surfacing in regards to global fashion brands using underage models for extremely provocative and exploitative advertisements. When 12-15-year-old girls are sexualised and treated as disposable goods by adults, there is infinite potential for the situation to go awry.These young models have to deal with being presented and viewed as sexual objects, a difficult concept to understand at their age. Worryingly, many models’ voices are not heard when it comes to discussing their experiences due to reluctance or anxiousness, or fear of losing clients.
“The iconography of por nography has become stylish as it is adopted by the world of fashion and advertising” Sar ah Young
Back in 2012, 15-year-old American model, Hailey Clauson, was persistent enough to make sure her voice was heard. She commenced proceedings in the New York federal court against fashion photographer, Jason Lee Parry, and three US retailers for the misuse of a selection of provocative photos taken of her without her consent, while still underage. Underage models will soon gain increased protection in the United States, after a bill laying out federal expectations for their treatment was passed earlier this year in 2016. This legislation is the first step within a crucial and necessary movement. In 2012 all 21 international Vogues signed a pack pledging they would not use models under the age of 16. This was influenced by a request from the Council of Fashion Designers of America, who argue that models should be no younger than 16 in order to have the maturity to respond to rejection from designers or being treated indecently by photographers. Non-Profit organisations such as The Model Alliance are also aiming to create better working conditions for young models by providing a forum that allows them voice their concerns (modelalliance.org). While this is all very promising news, fashion’s obsession with all things youthful continues to thrive regardless of any signed packs or forums. The scouting of young teen models has only recently come under scrutiny in correlation with the rise of this pornographic style of fashion photography. London model and blogger, Chantelle Pidgely (chantellepidgly.com), was keen to voice her opinion on the matter. Growing up with her mum as a model and with an interest in fashion photography, she has noticed first-hand how trends in modelling and fashion photography have changed.
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“The spotlight has moved from the once genuine appreciation of clothes, tailoring and fashion, to the worshiping of youth, sexuality and the naked body”. ”. Introduced to the world of modelling at the age of 16, Chantelle says “I wish I had known to take casting directors opinions of myself with a pinch of salt, but at that age you don’t prepare yourself for the criticism”. Unfortunately for Chantelle there didn’t exist forums like the Model Alliance, where models could talk about their negative experiences in front of the camera, “when I first started modelling, surrounded by others so much older than myself, I didn’t have the confidence to voice how I felt. I stayed quiet and held it all in, it was a self-destructive blow to my confidence”. Chantelle spoke of the countless occasions where directors would pass cynical, and often inappropriate remarks on her teenage body. “I would like to think that those who have the control and authority over some of the industry’s most influential culture magazines would never allow this kind of indecent exploitation to continue”. Agreeably, these magazine have such a strong influence on the younger generation, it makes you question what kind of example they’re setting to their prime target audience. “Fashion photography is an art form. I would hate for it to continue to be tarnished in this way.” Despite the push for older, more iconic models over the past few seasons, designers will likely still want youthful, thin girls on their runways and in their ad campaigns. Therefore, it’s simply quixotic to dream of a world where the fashion industry would cease to make use of underage models altogether. We must start taking a lot more consideration for the younger generation of models who are fuelling the modern world of fashion photography. It is pivotal that we allow these young individuals to mature at a natural rate, both mentally and physically, instead of launching them into an industry that forces them to mature far beyond their years. Let’s make this photography fetishisation, a fashion faux pas of the past.
“The spotlight has moved from the once genuine appreciation of clothes, tailoring and fashion, to the worshiping of youth, sexuality and the naked body” Chantelle Pidg ley 5
w ha t a r e yo u star i n g at? 7
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this is youth.
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“We need taking more consideration for the younger generation of models who are fuelling the modern world of fashion photography� Chantelle Pidgley
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Y O U th. Spring 17