Trend Report

Perfume: An Edible Scent/Superfood Skincare Sarah Young

Perfume: An Edible Scent / Superfood Skincare Food and Drink 1

Issue design by: Sarah Young ÂŠ 2016 Fashion Communication Northumbria 2

Perfume: An Edible Scent

PERFUME: AN EDIBLE SCENT

1:0 Liquid Intelligence Innovations are rapidly emerging within the food and drink industry, which are slowly helping to transcend the boarders of fragrance and mixology. The following trend research is inspired by the recent work of Tony Conigliaro. Coniglario is the first bartender to work the principles of science to mix drinks. He was the one who started to experiment with culinary and perfumery techniques and methods to make his cocktails. Tony started to study perfumery to marry this idea of perfumes and cocktails. Once he understood that the art of mixing fragrance notes to create a perfume was very similar to the mix of spirits and ingredients to create cocktails, he developed this idea of creating a champagne cocktail, inspired by Chanel’s number one fragrance. It was the marriage of an iconic fragrance with an iconic cocktail.

This has led to the emergence of ‘Fragrance Bars’, dedicated to the art of cocktail perfumery, cropping up across European cities in 2017. The first bar of this kind was established in Berlin, at the Ritz Carlton, and was aptly named ‘Fragrances’. Fragrances invites guests to take a culinary trip into the world of aromas, offering cocktails inspired by world famous perfumes. Cocktail bars are soon to be transformed from a location where you would simply go for a drink, into a truly sensorial experience, and Bartenders will soon become practitioners of mixology alchemy. A key element to this trend is ‘sensory overload’. Not only are your taste buds thrilled, your olfaction and eyes are in for a treat too.

OPPOSITE: “Liquid Intelligence”, a book wrote by David Arnold, sits on the shelves behind the bar, at The Alchemist in Newcastle. This adds to the ‘science lab’ theme within this bar. Photo taken by Sarah Young.

BELOW: “Science lab” themed glasswear is stacked neatly behind the bar. This includes test tubes and cronical flasks. These are used by the bar staff when making up the cocktails. This adds to the consistant lab theme that runs consistant within The Alchemist bar and restaurant, Newcastle. Edit and photo by Sarah Young.

PREVIOUS PAGE (LEFT): A heated rum concoction is poured from a cronical flask into a tall cocktail glass containing dry ice. This creates a dramtic smoke effect. Edit and photo by Sarah Young. PREVIOUS PAGE (RIGHT): A heated rum concoction is poured from a cronical flask into a tall cocktail glass containing dry ice. This creates a dramatic smoke effect. Once the liquid fills the glass, the dry ice begins to bubble. This is a truely â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;avant-gardeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; cocktail experience. Edit and photo by Sarah Young.

OPPOSITE (RIGHT): Miniature cronical flasks and measuring cylinders filled with alcoholic substances, begin to create a dramatic smoke show, once dry ice is added. This is one of the many scientific methods used by the bar staff when creating these incredibly avant garde cocktails. Edit and Photo by Sarah Young.

1:1 Alchemy The term “Alchemy” can be defined as, “A power or process that changes or transforms something in a mysterious or impressive way” - Merriam Webster. This is a perfect term to decribe the magic that the bartenders of The Alchemist, perform when creating cocktails. Working behind their chic ‘science lab’ themed bar, they transform what should be an average cocktail, into an avant garde work of art in a truely theatrical and scientific way.

“Bartenders will become practitioners of ‘mixology alchemy’, leading way to a cocktail experience with a sensory overload...” This term can also be applied to the new and exciting ways that the drinks industry are incorporating scent and perfumery in to their trade. Cocktail bars are soon to be transformed from a location where you would simply go for a drink, to a sensorial experience. These aptly named ‘Fragrance Bars’ are slowly emerging across European cities such as Berlin. Bartenders will soon become practitioners of mixology alchemy, leading way to a cocktail experience with a sensory overload.

OPPOSITE (RIGHT): “MOLECULAR MIXOLOGY” collage realting to the trend and science behind edible fragrances and perfumes. Edit and photo by Sarah Young.

MOLE CULAR MIXOL OGY... 15

BELOW: Science lab themed props sit by the bar-side. These cronical flasks and beakers contain alcoholic substances, which are used within the cocktails. This adds to The Alchemist’s consistant science lab theme. Photo by Sarah Young.

ABOVE: Science lab themed props sit by the bar-side. This includes syringes filled with alcoholic substances, which are used within the cocktails. This add’s to The Alchemist’s consistant science lab theme. Photo by Sarah Young.

1:2 Neurogastronomy Neurogastronomy can be defined as, “the study of how the brain creates the perception of flavour”, and a perfect example of how the frangrance industry carries out neurogastronomy can be seen at the Jo Loves store, in Belgravia London, also popularly named as a fragrance brasserie. This fragrance brasserie bar offers guests a unique fragrance tapas’ experience, often cited as “tapas for the nose”, and implements neurogastronomy in order to allow guests to find their perfect scent.

“...the Jo Loves store offers an experience which can only be decribed as tapas for the nose...” Here guests are presented with three main sensorial experiences for example, bath colognes warmed in a tagine and then opened up to allow you breathe in the scented steam and a cocktail shaker used to foam up cleanser which is then poured into a martini glass. This is a truely innovative experience which helps to bridge the connection between the fragrance and drinks industry. ABOVE: Jo Malone in her ‘Jo Loves’ fragrance pattisarie, situated in Belgravia, London. Jo is demonstrating the different methods they use in store, that allow guests to explore the true depths of the fragrances in-store in a truely sensorial and neurogastonomical way. Image source - nytimes. com.

OPPOSITE (LEFT): Dry ice reacts with the alcoholic substance which leads to a dramatic bubbling effect at the bottom of a science lab measuring cylinder. This is just one of the techniques used behind the bar at The Alchemist, when creating their extreamly avant garde cocktails. Edit and Photo by Sarah Young.

1:3 Edible Perfume Danish chef, food writer and photographer, Kille Enna, has created handcrafted edible perfumes called “The Taste of Scent”. The perfumes are made from flower extracts, roots, herbs, seeds and bark. Designed to be consumed after a meal, or enjoyed as a “natural cocktail” the elixers can be puffed into a glass and inhaled, or combined with spring water to create a refreshing drink. Varieties include liquorice root, green cardamon and lavander flowers and damask rose and heather flowers. The four edible aromas are presented in attractive glass spray falcons, that evoke traditional perfume packaging.

“...our sense of smell is inextricably linked to our sense of taste...” Illuminum London have also produced a similar product, called the 95% series. The name comes from the fact that scent accounts for 95% of our taste. The 95% series celebrates the relationship between scent and taste in a collaboration with three highly individual chefs from around the world. In curating the 95% series, Illuminum invited innovative chefs Jackson Boxer, Yuki Gomi and Tom Wolfe to create three destinctive fragrances. This cross-disciplinary collaboration with three practioners is a unique opportunity to trancend the boarders of experience, expectations and practice in order to fashion the new.

PREVIOUS (LEFT): Experimental photography and collage representing the science behind the trend of fragrance bars and fragrance cocktails, which is slowly emerging across European cities in 2017. Edit and photo by Sarah Young.

ABOVE: Cocktail glasses hang neatly from the shelves behind the bar of The Alchemist, Newcastle. Photo by Sarah Young. BELOW: Cocktail glasses hang neatly from the shelves behind the bar of The Alchemist, Newcatle. Photo by Sarah Young.

ABOVE: A collage representing the detail and technicality involved in alchemy and mixology. Edit and photo by Sarah Young.

1:4 Scent Dinners Chandler Burr, a writer for the New York Times, has introduced an experience which acts as the intersection of fragrance and fine dining. Scent dinners combine fine dining with a stimulating interactive master class in scent and perfum. They involve two parallel dinners, one olfactory and essentially invisable, and the second gustatory and edible. Scent dinners are highly creative experiences, created in collaboration with world renowned chefs. During these dinners, Burr passes round professional-grade gourmand perfumery raw materials such as essences and absolutes of fresh mint, brazillian cacau and Indian saffron.

“...Scent dinners act as the intersection of fragrance and fine dining...” Popular culinary perfumes are also passed around such as Guerlain’s 1925 Shalimar and Tom Ford Black Orchid. Teaming with the chef, they generate a menu which reflects in each of the culinary edible courses with the gourmand perfume used in the olfactory dinner. ABOVE: Guests enjoying a “Scent Dinner’ hosted by Chandler Burr, involving two parallel dinners. One olfactory and essentially invisable, and the second gustatory and edible. Image source, chandlerburr.com.

ABOVE: Brown sugar is added to a miniature copper pan, which is then heated on a bunsen burner. This acts as the base of the cocktail, before the alcohol is added. Edit and photo by Sarah Young.

ABOVE: Rum is added to the pan, which continues to be heated on a bunsen burner. This scientific method of creating cocktails is extreamly avant garde, and adds a ‘theatrical’ touch to the bar experience. Edit and photo by Sarah Young.

OPPOSITE (RIGHT): All of the ingredients for this particular cocktail are added to the miniature copper pan and heated on top of a science lab bunsen burner. This is a theatrical method used by the bar staff at The Alchemist, and adds to the highly consistant ‘Science lab’ these that runs throught the whole bar. Edit and photo by Sarah Young.

ABOVE: Demonstrating the close link in appearance between gourmand perfume bottles and liquor bottles, representing the growing trend of â&#x20AC;&#x153;Perfume: An Edible Scentâ&#x20AC;?. Edit and photo by Sarah Young.

Superfood Skincare

TREND: SUPERFOOD SKINCARE

Superfood Skincare Superfood skincare is on the rise, and for very good reason. Not only are these miracle workers staple within your favourite post workout smoothie, but they’re also making their way into skin care products such as serums, oils, and creams. A new brand called ‘Youth to the People’ recently launched products that contain superfoods such as kale and spinach injunction with the infamous hyaluronic acid. This brand seems to believe in taking the most natural and organic approach to skin care as possible. Their ingredients are 100% vegan with packaging that’s 100% recyclable. As for the associated benefits, superfood skin care can help deliver an abundance of antioxidants. These foods are packed with vitamin C and A. Using them over an extended period of time can help improve your skin. Some people think that this superfood skin trend is nothing more than marketing departments taking advantage of health trends. Whatever the reason might be, if it works and it’s trending, then companies might as well take advantage of it.

The superfood skincare trend is real and it’s here to stay. More and more people are turning to it nowadays for great reason – superfoods are great for our health and overall well-being, both on the inside and on the outside. And that’s exactly what makes them so desirable in the beauty industry too. Two-thirds of women believe that what they eat directly impacts on how their skin looks, so expect to see edible ingredients increasingly listed on your creams and serums. From superfoods such as chia, broccoli and kale to fermented supplements and even turmeric, the latest products could just as easily be found in your kitchen as the bathroom. A continued cross-pollination of healthy superfood consumables and topical ointments on the basis that: if it’s safe enough to eat then it’s safe enough to use on your skin. Ingredients to look out for include chia seed oil, matcha leaf powder, blueberries, chlorophyll and kale. Look for brightly coloured products with the inclusion of plant pigments and antioxidants.

OPPOSITE (LEFT): Experimental photography exploring the trend of “Superfood Skincare” which has exploded onto the health and wellbeing industry, in 2017. This series of photos focuses on the idea of ‘Multi-Masking’ - using superfood face masks. Edit and Photo by Sarah Young. Model, Abi Scott.

BELOW: An extream close-up shot of an image which demonstrates the most recent trend in the health and well-being sector - â&#x20AC;&#x153;Superfood Skincareâ&#x20AC;?. Edit and photo by Sarah Young.

ABOVE: Experimental photography exploring the trend of superfood skincare, within the beauty sector. Edit and photo by Sarah Young.

OPPOSITE (RIGHT): Experimental photography exploring the trend of superfood skincare. This series of images focus specifically on the sub-trend of “MULTIMASKING” within the superfood skincare trend (targeting different areas of your face with different skincare products). Edit and photo by Sarah Young.

ABOVE: Extream close-up shots of experimental photographs exploring the trend of superfood skincare, which has exploded onto the health and well-being scene this year. Edit and photo by Sarah Young.

ABOVE: Close up shot of an image that dipicts a sub-trend within the superfood skincare - “MULTI-MASKING”. Photo by Sarah Young.

OPPOSITE: Extream close up shot of an image that dipicts a sub-trend within the superfood skincare trend - “multi-masking”. Photo by Sarah Young.

BELOW: Experimental photography exploring the trend of superfood skincare within the health and well-being industry sector. Edit and Photo by Sarah Young.

OPPOSITE (LEFT): Experimental photography exploring the trend of superfood skincare products which have become increasingly prominant accross the health and well-being industry, this year. This image focuses specifically on the poppy seed, often found on the ingredients list of superfood skincare products. Edit and photo, Sarah Young.

ABOVE: Experimental photography focusing on chai seeds, helping to explore the trend of superfood skincare products, within the beauty industry. Edit and photo by Sarah Young.

OPPOSITE (LEFT): Extream close-up shot of eperimental photography, exploring the recent trend of superfood skincare products in the beauty industry. Edit and Photo by Sarah Young.

OPPOSITE (LEFT): An extream close-up shot of experimental photography exploring the trend of superfood skincare products, with particular focus on chai seeds (a common ingredient found in many superfood skincare products). Photo by Sarah Young.

OPPOSITE (LEFT): Experimental photography exploring the trend of superfood skincare products. This series of images focuses specifically on the growing popularity of tumeric and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s increasing appearnce within the ingredients list of some of the industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best superfood skincare products. Edit and photo by Sarah Young.

ABOVE: Extream close-up shot of experimental photography exploring the trend of superfood skincare within the health and wellbeing sector. Focusing on tumeric. Photo by Sarah Young.

ABOVE: An extream close up shot of the increasingly popular, tumeric. Tumeric can be seen listed within the ingredients list of many of the industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best superfood skincare products. Photo by Sarah Young.

OPPOSITE (LEFT): Experimental photography exploring the trend of superfood skincare within the health and wellbeing industry. This series of images focus specifically on the benefits of tumeric. Edit and photo by Sarah Young.

ABOVE: Experimental photography exploring the trend of superfood skincare, featuring acai berries (a popular superfood frequently found on the ingredients list of skincare products. Edit and photo by Sarah Young. OPPOSITE (RIGHT): Geometric hand sketch outline. Source, clipartlibrary.com. Edit by Sarah Young.

OPPOSITE: Experimental photography exploring the trend of superfood skincare, which has exploded into the health and wellbeing industry in 2017. Edit and photo by Sarah Young.

ABOVE: Experimental photography focusing on the increasingly popular acai berry, helping to explore the trend of superfood skincare. Edit and photo by Sarah Young.

REFERENCES JO MALONE AT THE JO LOVES STORE IN BELGRAVIA, LONDON (PAGE 16 - 17) SOURCE - HTTPS://WWW.NYTIMES.COM/2016/10/03/FASHION/PERFUME-JO-MALONE.HTML

CHANDLER BURR SCENT DINNER (PAGE 26 - 27) SOURCE - HTTP://WWW.CHANDLERBURR.COM/SCENTDINNER.HTM

GEOMETRIC HAND SKETCH (PAGE 56 - 57) SOURCE - HTTP://CLIPART-LIBRARY.COM/HAND-DRAWING-OUTLINE.HTML