CUTTING TERMINOLOGY

AREA A specific place on the head e.g. the nape area.

ASYMMETRIC

A non-identical balance of length or weight in a haircut . BALANCE A harmony of design and proportion. Areas are matched with each other to give equilibrium . BEVEL / BEVELLING A rounding of a sharp edge to give a crafted smoothness. The action of turning the ends under after the blow-dry. BIAS CUTTING Cutting diagonally across the hair (inspired by the 1930s fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet who bias cut cloth).

BLEND CHEVRON CONCAVE To combine or mix different elements both technically and visually. A V-shaped section predominately used in colour. An inwardly curving line that is shorter in the centre and longer on the outside. Runs in opposition to the contours of the head.

CONVEX

A line that follows the shape of the head or can bow outward to accentuate it. CORNERS Used to work against the natural roundness of the head shape. Can be placed anywhere within the overall hair design. CROSS-CHECKING A system used to ensure the hair design is technically proficient. Checking is carried out in the opposite direction in which the design was created. CROWN The area at the top of the head where the growth pattern of hair originates. CUTTING ANGLE After determining the bone structure and the final hair design, this is the angle at which the hair is cut. DEFINITION To add strength of line or definite structure to an existing shape or finish. DEPTH The degree of lightness or darkness of a colour. DIAGONAL Any section taken across the head on an angle of between one and ninety degrees. DIFFUSE 1 To blend different / complementary colours / tones / textures to create a subtle visual mix. DIFFUSE 2 To blow dry textured hair using an attachment on the dryer. DISCONNECTION An area within a haircut where the lengths are not connected technically. ELEVATION A technique used to lift the hair away from the head shape. EXPANDED FORM The shape revealed when the hair is displayed at 90° out from the head. FADING The gradual blending of hairlines into the neck area. FLAT 1 Creating corners where the head naturally rounds to create a square shape. FLAT 2 Drying to create the minimum amount of volume. FREEHAND Cutting the hair without the use of club cutting to give a more textured look to the hair design. Colouring techniques can also be applied freehand. FRONTAL BONE The bone that forms the forehead and roof of both eye sockets. A focal point for deciding the best hair shape. GLOSS Denotes the lustre and shine of hair. GRADUATION A technique that builds up weight in hair. The amount of graduation is determined by the use of elevation / tension and can create both internal and external shapes. GROWTH PATTERN The natural direction in which the hair grows. GUIDE LINE The section of the hair from which lines flow in a haircut. The guide line determines the length of subsequent sections.

HAIRLINE HORIZONTAL The boundaries of significant hair growth on the head. Used in techniques of line and graduation. Horizontal sections are used to build up more weight in a hair design.

INTERNAL LAYERING The shape within the outline of the haircut. Technique used to remove the weight in a cut so that the movement and texture of the hair can be controlled.

LINES Hair that is cut to follow the fall of its natural growth without the use of elevation. MASTOID PROCESS A bone, located behind the ear is taken into consideration when determining the appropriate hair design particularly in shorter haircuts. NAPE The area of the neck below the occipital bone. OCCIPITAL BONE Bone situated at back and lower part of cranium. Key area to focus on when determining a short hair design. OUTLINE The external edge of a haircut. OVERDIRECTION To direct the hair away from its natural fall, which will define the shape being created. OXIDANT An agent that supplies extra oxygen to a tint or bleach. PARIETAL BONE Bones that form the roof and sides of the cranium and run between the frontal and occipital bones. PARALLEL A line or section that mirrors the angle of the previous one. PLANE Any flat/level surface to which the hair is directed when cutting. ROUND The fullness of the hair is directed towards the back of the head and away from the face leaving. flatter planes to complement the natural shape of the scalp, as well as disguise narrow bone structure.

REFINE SECTION

SLICE SQUARE SYMMETRY TECHNICAL TECHNIQUE TEMPLE TENSION

TEXTURE To add the finishing touches and detailing to a hair design after a visual evaluation. Denotes the specific area of hair to be cut / coloured. The shape of the section taken in some ways determines the final shape. A fine unbroken section of hair that has been / will be coloured. To take away the roundness of a hair shape by creating corners of equal length. An equal balance of weight and/or length. A structured and precise method that achieves a specific result. The specific processes and principles used to cut and colour hair. The flat portion that lies either side of the head above the cheekbones. The degree of stress that can be placed on the hair. Tension is a key factor in determining the characteristic of a line. The natural movement of the hair.

TRIANGULAR TONE A shape that descends progressively from the back to the front. The quality of a given colour when placed next to another colour. Can be a warm or cool tone depending on the hue used.

VERTICAL VOLUME WEIGHT Upright sections that when used in their simplest form have a tendency to remove more weight. The amount of fullness within a shape. An area of heaviness in a haircut which tends to be blended into the shape.

WEIGHT LINE

A band or edge of heaviness in a haircut that can be used either to define a haircut or round it off. WRAP DRY To dry the hair around the head shape following the natural growth patterns of the hair. ZYGOMATIC BONES Form cheekbones at upper and lateral part of the face.