CUTTING WORKBOOK
Sassoon’s unique education programme is based on 50 years of industry leadership and is intrinsic to Sassoon’s respected cut and colour techniques. This book, when used in conjunction with the ABC Men DVD series forms a comprehensive training programme that, together with practical experience, will give you the tools to establish your technical expertise and develop your own cutting style.
MARK HAYES International Creative Director
C ONTENTS KEY 06 BONE STRUCTURE 07 MALE SKULL SHAPE 07 KEY PRINCIPLES 08 THE PHASES 09
INTRODUCTION TO SHORT HAIR A1: FINGER LENGTH CROP A2: SHORT CROP A3: SHORT LAYER A4: SHORT BACK & SIDES
21 29 37 45
SUITABILITY 10 PROPORTIONS 11 TECHNIQUE 12 OUTSIDE AND INSIDE OF THE FINGERS 12 SCISSOR OVER COMB 13 CLIPPERS 14 THE BEARD 15 PARTINGS 16
INTRODUCTION TO LAYERS & GRADUATION B1: LAYERS INTO GRADUATION B2: GRADUATION WITH DISCONNECTION B3: GRADUATION WITH LAYERS B4: GRADUATION WITH LAYERS & A PART
55 63 71 79
INTRODUCTION TO LAYERS & EXTERNAL LINES C1: LAYERS WITH AN OUTLINE C2: LAYERED BOWL C3: LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION C4: LAYERS WITH A NATURAL OUTLINE
89 97 105 115
TERMINOLOGY 122
KEY STARTING POSITION CUTTING SECTION SEPARATION OF PANELS EXTERNAL CUTTING LINE EXTERNAL CUTTING LINE (CONCEALED) PARTING LINE DIRECTION HAIR IS COMBED SHOWS NO OVERDIRECTION SHOWS OVERDIRECTION POINTING DEEP POINTING CLIPPER AREA OF SCISSOR OVER COMB
06
KEY
BONE STRUCTURE PRONOUNCED BROW RIDGES
HEAVY EYEBROWS
SMOOTH FOREHEAD
ARCHED EYEBROWS
ANGULAR CHEEKBONES
CURVED CHEEKBONES
SQUARE CHIN
DELICATE CHIN
WIDE NECK
SLIM NECK
MALE SKULL SHAPE SLIGHTLY SLOPING OR RECEDING FOREHEAD
VAULT IS ROUNDED
BROW RIDGES ARE WELL DEMARCATED VAULT IS ROUNDED SUPRAORBITAL MARGIN IS ROUNDED
OCCIPITAL BONE IS LARGE AND PROMINENT
ZYGOMATIC BONE IS PRONOUNCED
LARGE MASTOID PROCESSES
CHIN IS SQUARE AND PROTRUDES FORWARD
BONE STRUCTURE
07
KEY PRINCIPLES Name four important aspects when cutting men’s hair 1.
Working without or with product
2.
Determining the right length for the hair
3.
Working in phases
4.
The use of vertical and horizontal sections
Conduct extra research about the history of men’s hair
08
KEY PRINCIPLES
*Students to research the history of mens hair*
THE PHASES Describe the phase system and its use
Working in phases uses the principles of classical sculpture, establishing
basic proportions, then continually refines and defines the shape before working on the detail.
What are five things to look for while working in phases?
The exterior shape and external proportions
The optimal length, texture and internal proportions Crosschecking Graduating the external shape into the internal lengths Definition and finish The most frequent mistake in time management is:
The most frequent mistake is to not to adhere to the phase
theme, for example using crosschecking to re-cut length rather than repeating the correct phase.
Conduct research on pareto and other disciplines where this principle is used
*Students to research pareto principle*
The 80 - 20 rule - states that 80% of all work produces 20% of the result, and 20% gives 80% of the result. in our case its the final 20% of the work during the definition and finish phase that will produce 80% of the result, giving the look it’s individuality and helping train the eyes to see detail.
THE PHASES
09
SUITABILITY What features of the bone structure and face shape are important to consider?
Be aware of the head in three
dimensions. The nose, forehead and chin are more apparent when studied in the profile. The width of the forehead, cheekbones and jawline are more evident from the front. Assess the head shape, paying attention to the occipital bone, mastoid process, parietal bone and frontal bone.
Why is the square significant in mens work?
Generally mens haircuts look better when they are based on the
square shape which flatters the masculine features of the male skull and face shape.
Why is beveling important?
EXAMPLES OF BEVELLING
10
SUITABILITY
Beveling off the corners will help make the look appear less wide or heavy.
PROPORTIONS List important features to take into consideration when working on the front
The shape and contour of the front hairline
should enhance the shape of the forehead. The distance from the front hairline to the top of the shape, should be in proportion to the overall width. The length of the sideburn will affect the length and width of the face. List important features to take into consideration when working on proportions on the side profile
To achieve a balanced
profile, the distance from the crown to the front hairline and the crown to the back hairline should visually correspond. The distance from the temple hairline to the occipital bone should be balanced with the distance from the crown to the nape hairline. List important features to take into consideration when working on proportions on the back
The distance between the
crown and the nape hairline length and the widest point of the back of the head. The hairline length should balance with this in relation to the overall proportion of the look. DIAGRAM EXAMPLES OF SHORT AND LONG HAIR PROPORTIONS
SHORT HAIR PROPORTIONS
LONG HAIR PROPORTIONS
PROPORTIONS
11
TECHNIQUE INSIDE AND OUTSIDE THE FINGERS
Draw and describe what happens when hair is cut outside of the fingers
There is a natural tendency to lift the hair
when working outside the fingers. This will produce more layered silhouette.
OUTSIDE THE FINGERS
Draw and describe what happens when hair is cut inside of the fingers
There is a natural tendency to pull the hair
down when working inside the fingers. This will produce a more graduated silhouette.
INSIDE THE FINGERS
12
ABC PRINCIPLES | TECHNIQUE
TECHNIQUE SCISSOR OVER COMB
Name three important steps to take into consideration when working with scissor over comb techniques
How to hold and control the scissors How to hold and control the comb How to work with the scissor and comb in unison Name at least two important points to remember when holding and controlling the scissors
Keep the ring finger static while moving only the thumb Rest the thumb gently in the scissor ring
Name at least two important points to remember when controlling the comb
Control the comb with the either the forefinger and the thumb securing the comb or resting the comb on the thumb whilst gently wrapping the fingers over the teeth.
Describe how to work with the scissors and comb in unison
While the comb makes its upward and outward
movement the scissors follow the comb with the bottom blade parallel to the stem.
General points to remember when using scissor over comb
Work in the opposite direction of hair growth - keep
the scissors and comb moving in unison - tilt the comb outwards to achieve more length - work only on dry hair - use the wide teeth of the comb first and then the fine teeth to take the hair shorter - keep the bottom blade of the scissors parallel to the spine of the comb - move only the thumb - work in vertical channels that are the width of the scissor blade.
ABC PRINCIPLES | TECHNIQUE
13
TECHNIQUE CLIPPERS
What is the purpose of using clippers?
Clippers are used to further refine and finish, remove neck hair and
refine sideburns.
Name two techniques the clippers are used for
Clipper over comb technique
Blending skin into hair
Important points to remember while working with clipper over comb
Keeping the clippers and comb moving in
unison - moving the clippers in an upwards and outwards movement - moving in small vertical channels using the previously cut hair as a guide.
Important points to remember white blending from skin into hair
Having the blades closed will take the hair the
shortest - setting the clipper blades open will leave slightly more length - careful adjustment between closed and open can assist with the blending of hairlines.
14
ABC PRINCIPLES | TECHNIQUE
THE BEARD & PARTING What two issues occur when a parting is not taken into consideration?
The longer parting side would have a layered
look that lies flat. The shorter parting side would have a graduated effect which looks heavy.
What facial features can the beard emphasize or improve upon?
Improvements can be made to the face shape by
emphasizing the cheekbones, the chin, jawline and eyes.
What are some general points to remember when creating a suitable beard shape for a client?
The outline should be
gently faded and the lips should be free, but look natural. Reducing the hair under the chin will enhance the shape of the jaw. Improvements to the face shape can be made by emphasizing the cheekbones, the chin, the jawline and eyes. What three types of hair need to be taken into consideration when working with partings?
Fine straight hair Hair with a slight wave Thick, wavy hair
THE BEARD
15
PARTINGS Draw a diagram below for when a parting is taken into consideration
16
PARTINGS
PARTINGS DIAGRAM EXAMPLES OF THE CORRECT LENGTH FOR EACH OF THE FOLLOWING TEXTURES
FINE STRAIGHT HAIR
HAIR WITH A SLIGHT WAVE
THICK WAVY HAIR
PARTINGS
17
a SHORT HAIR THE SHORT HAIR SERIES FOCUSES ON THE CONTROL OF WEIGHT BUILD UP WHILST WORKING WITH THE CONTOURS OF THE HEAD SHAPE AT A VERY SHORT LENGTH. THE SERIES DEMONSTRATES SCISSOR OVER COMB AND CLIPPER WORK WITH A VARIATION OF HAIRLINES AS WELL AS ESSENTIAL DETAILS OF FINISHING AND REFINING . AS THE SHAPES ARE AT A SHORT LENGTH MAKE A THOROUGH ASSESSMENT OF THE HAIR TEXTURE, HAIR GROWTH AND HAIRLINE PATTERNS PRIOR TO SHAMPOOING. PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE CONTOURS OF THE HEAD AS WELL AS CHECKING FOR ANY SCARS OR RECEDING HAIRLINES AS THESE WILL NEED TO BE ALLOWED FOR THROUGHOUT THE TECHNIQUE.
FINGER LENGTH CROP This look introduces the A series and forms the foundation of controlling and layering short hair with precision and finesse.
SHORT CROP The next step of the A series shows how to work with extremely short hair lengths. The shape is layered, scissor over combed and refined with clipper work.
SHORT LAYER The short layered look continues the A series by demonstrating how to combine layers with a natural outline shape that is transferable onto many lengths and textures.
SHORT BACK & SIDES This shape concludes the A series and illustrates the combination of internal layering with an extremely short outline to produce this iconic men’s look.
SHORT HAIR FINGER LENGTH CROP
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I
DETERMINING THE CORRECT LENGTH PROPORTIONS AND TEXTURE
22
a
FINGER LENGTH CROP
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II
CROSS-CHECK USING HORIZONTAL SECTIONS
FINGER LENGTH CROP
a
23
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III
GRADUATING THE EXTERNAL SHAPE IN THE FINGERS
24
a
FINGER LENGTH CROP
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE IV
DEFINITION OF THE OUTLINE SHAPE
FINGER LENGTH CROP
a
25
FINGER LENGTH CROP
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Growth patterns
2.
Head shape
3.
Density
4.
Texture
5.
Face shape
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
Length desired
2.
Maintenance
3.
Product use
4.
Details of hairlines
5.
Length of sideburns
26
a
FINGER LENGTH CROP
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
Layers
Round
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
Top - Horizontal / Sides and back - Vertical
Top - Crown
HAND AND BODY POSITION:
Hand position - over the fingers / Body position - standing in the back for the
top and sides and standing at the shoulders to cut the back. FINISHING PRODUCTS:
Based on suitability
FINGER LENGTH CROP
a
27
2
SHORT HAIR SHORT CROP
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I
DETERMINING THE CORRECT LENGTH PROPORTIONS AND TEXTURE
30
a
SHORT CROP
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II
DEFINING THE INTERNAL SHAPE WITH SCISSOR OVER COMB TECHNIQUE
SHORT CROP
a
31
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III
DEFINITION OF THE OUTLINE SHAPE
32
a
SHORT CROP
SHORT CROP
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Head shape
2.
Density
3.
Texture
4.
Growth patterns
5.
Moles or scars
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
Length desired
2.
Product use
3.
When was last haircut
4.
Maintenance
5.
Length of sideburns / facial hair
34
a
SHORT CROP
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
Layers
Round
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
Top - Horizontal / Sides and back - Vertical
Top - Crown
HAND AND BODY POSITION:
Hand position - over the fingers / Body position - standing in the back for the
top and sides and standing at the shoulders to cut the back. FINISHING PRODUCTS:
Based on suitability
SHORT CROP
a
35
3
SHORT HAIR SHORT LAYER
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I
DETERMINING THE CORRECT LENGTH PROPORTIONS AND TEXTURE
38
a
SHORT LAYER
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS
PHASE II
CROSS-CHECK USING HORIZONTAL SECTIONS
SHORT LAYER
a
39
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III
DEFINE AND FINISH THE OUTLINE SHAPE
40
a
SHORT LAYER
SHORT LAYER
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Texture
2.
Density
3.
Face shape
4.
Head shape
5.
Growth patterns
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
Product use
2.
When was last haircut
3.
Length desired
4.
Maintenence
5.
Details of hairlines
42
a
SHORT LAYER
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
Layers
Square
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
Top - Horizontal / Sides and back - Vertical
Top - Crown
HAND AND BODY POSITION:
Hand position - over the fingers / Body position - standing in the back for the
top and sides and standing at the shoulders to cut the back. FINISHING PRODUCTS:
Based on suitability
SHORT LAYER
a
43
4
SHORT HAIR SHORT BACK & SIDES
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I
DETERMINING THE CORRECT LENGTH PROPORTIONS AND TEXTURE
46
a
SHORT BACK & SIDES
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II
CROSS-CHECK USING HORIZONTAL SECTIONS
SHORT BACK & SIDES
a
47
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III
DEFINING THE INTERNAL AND EXTERNAL SHAPE WITH SCISSOR OVER COMB AND CLIPPER TECHNIQUES
48
a
SHORT BACK & SIDES
SHORT BACK & SIDES
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Head shape
2.
Growth patterns
3.
Moles or scars
4.
Density
5.
Texture
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
Length desired
2.
Length / details of hairlines
3.
Product use
4.
When was last haircut
5.
Maintenence
50
a
SHORT BACK & SIDES
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
Layers and graduation
Round
SECTIONING PATTERN:
First section on top - Vertical then diagonal sections / Sides and back -
Vertical sections
START POINT:
Center top
Hand position - Top - over the fingers sides and back - Inside the fingers / Body position - Top - standing at the side for the vertical section and standing at the back for the diagonal sections. Back and sides - Standing in front of your sectons. HAND AND BODY POSITION:
FINISHING PRODUCTS:
Based on suitability
SHORT BACK & SIDES
a
51
b
LAYERS & GRADUATION
THE B SERIES FEATURES DIFFERENT EXTERNAL GRADUATIONS THAT CAN BE INTERCHANGED WITH THE INTERNAL LENGTHS. VERTICAL SECTIONS ARE USED TO WORK WITH THE MOVEMENT OF THE HAIR AND ARE COMBINED WITH VARIOUS FORMS OF DISCONNECTION, WHILE FLAT GRADUATION IS USED TO SLIM THE SHAPES. AS WITH ALL SASSOON TECHNIQUES A THOROUGH ASSESSMENT OF THE EXISTING LENGTH OF THE HAIR, THE NATURAL MOVEMENT AND THE CONTOURS OF THE HAIRLINE AND HEADSHAPE SHOULD BE CONCLUDED PRIOR TO COMMENCING THE SHAPE.
LAYERS INTO GRADUATION This essential shape introduces the layers and graduation series and demonstrates how to combine these techniques in a classic, contemporary way.
GRADUATION WITH DISCONNECTION The second technique in the series shows how disconnection is added to produce a modern shape that forms the basis for many variations.
GRADUATION WITH LAYERS The next look in the B series combines graduation and layering at a slightly longer length and gives a wide spectrum of short to mid length options.
GRADUATION WITH LAYERS & A PARTING This cornerstone salon technique concludes the B series and shows how to blend a graduated outline with internal layering whilst retaining a strong external shape.
LAYERS & GRADUATION LAYERS INTO GRADUATION
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I
DETERMINING THE CORRECT LENGTH PROPORTIONS AND TEXTURE
56
b
LAYERS INTO GRADUATION
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II
CROSS-CHECK USING HORIZONTAL SECTIONS
LAYERS INTO GRADUATION
b
57
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III
GRADUATING AND DEFINING THE EXTERIOR SHAPE
58
b
LAYERS INTO GRADUATION
LAYERS INTO GRADUATION
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Head shape
2.
Growth patterns
3.
Texture
4.
Density
5.
Face shape
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
Do they wear their hair back or forward
2.
Length desired
3.
Product use
4.
When was last haircut
5.
Maintenance
60
b
LAYERS INTO GRADUATION
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
Layers and graduation
Square
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
Vertical
Center top at front hairline
Hand position - Layers - Over the fingers / Graduation - Inside the fingers Body position - Top - Standing at the sides - Sides - Standing behind the chair - Back - Standing at the shoulders. HAND AND BODY POSITION:
FINISHING PRODUCTS:
Based on suitability
LAYERS INTO GRADUATION
b
61
2
LAYERS & GRADUATION GRADUATION WITH DISCONNECTION
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I
DIVIDING THE TOP LENGTHS NOTE: THE TOP LENGTHS CAN BE COMPLETELY DISCONNECTED FROM THE UNDERNEATH SECTIONS OR CONNECTED THROUGH THE BACK.
DISCONNECTED
64
b
GRADUATION WITH DISCONNECTION
CONNECTED
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II
CUTTING THE UNDERNEATH HAIR
GRADUATION WITH DISCONNECTION
b
65
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III
CUTTING THE TOP LENGTHS INTO THE TOP OF THE BACK
66
b
GRADUATION WITH DISCONNECTION
GRADUATION WITH DISCONNECTION
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Growth patterns
2.
Density
3.
Head shape
4.
Texture
5.
Face shape
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
Length desired
2.
Length of sideburns
3.
Do they like the top completely disconnected or connected through the back and disconnected at the sides
4.
Product use
5.
How do they style their hair
68
b
GRADUATION WITH DISCONNECTION
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
Graduation with disconnection
Square
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
Horizontal and vertical
Sides
HAND AND BODY POSITION:
Hand position - Sides and back - Inside the fingers - Top - Over the fingers /
Body position - Sides and back - Standing in front of your sections - Top - Standing on the sides of the chair. FINISHING PRODUCTS:
Based on suitability
GRADUATION WITH DISCONNECTION
b
69
3
LAYERS & GRADUATION GRADUATION WITH LAYERS
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I
THE OUTLINE SHAPE
72
b
GRADUATION WITH LAYERS
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II
TOP INTO THE BACK, DIVIDING THE TOP AND CUTTING THE SIDES
GRADUATION WITH LAYERS
b
73
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III
CROSS-CHECK USING HORIZONTAL SECTIONS
74
b
GRADUATION WITH LAYERS
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE IV
DEFINITION AND FINISH
GRADUATION WITH LAYERS
b
75
GRADUATION WITH LAYERS
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Face shape
2.
Head shape
3.
Texture
4.
Density
5.
Growth patterns
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
Length desired
2.
When was the last haircut
3.
Product use
4.
Do they blow-dry
5.
Hairline details
76
b
GRADUATION WITH LAYERS
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
Graduation with Layers and disconnection
Square
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
Horizontal and vertical
Sides at front hairline
Hand position - Inside the fingers and Over the fingers / Body position Sides - Standing in front of your sections and standing behind Top - Standing on the sides of the chair - Back - Standing at the shoulders. HAND AND BODY POSITION:
FINISHING PRODUCTS:
Based on suitability
GRADUATION WITH LAYERS
b
77
4
LAYERS & GRADUATION GRADUATION WITH LAYERS & A PARTING
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I
DETERMINING THE CORRECT INTERNAL PROPORTIONS AND TEXTURE
80
b
GRADUATION WITH LAYERS & A PARTING
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II
CROSS-CHECK USING HORIZONTAL SECTIONS
GRADUATION WITH LAYERS & A PARTING
b
81
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III
DEFINITION AND FINISH
82
b
GRADUATION WITH LAYERS & A PARTING
GRADUATION WITH LAYERS & A PARTING
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Density
2.
Texture
3.
Natural parting
4.
Head shape
5.
Grawth patterns
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
Where do they part their hair
2.
How do they style their hair
3.
Product use
4.
Desired length
5.
Maintenence
84
b
GRADUATION WITH LAYERS & A PARTING
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
Graduation and layers
Square
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
Vertical and horizontal
At the parting
Hand position - Over the fingers and Inside the fingers /Body position - Top - Standing at the side of the parting and standing at the back - Sides - Standing at the back Back - Standing at the shoulders. HAND AND BODY POSITION:
FINISHING PRODUCTS:
Based on suitability
GRADUATION WITH LAYERS & A PARTING
b
85
c
LAYERS & EXTERNAL LINES
THE C SERIES FOCUSES ON VARIOUS OUTLINE SHAPES WITH INTERNAL LENGTHS THAT GIVE MOVEMENT AND TEXTURE. ALTHOUGH EACH SHAPE IS DEFINITIVE THE OUTLINE CAN BE INTERCHANGED TO PROVIDE A RANGE OF SHAPE OPTIONS. ONE OF THE KEY LEARNING AREAS IS THE CONTROL REQUIRED TO LAYER AN INTERNAL SHAPE WHILE MAINTAINING LENGTH AND DEFINITION IN THE OUTLINE SHAPE. PRIOR TO COMMENCING ANY OF THE C TECHNIQUES PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE RECESSION AREA AND THE HAIRLINE PATTERNS AS THE TECHNIQUE WILL NEED TO ALLOW FOR ANY FINENESS IN THIS AREA.
LAYERS WITH AN OUTLINE This look forms the foundation upon which all further applications of this technique are based by showing how to build a layered shape from an outline.
LAYERED BOWL Continuing the C series, this technique demonstrates the combination of a deep fringe with a strong external line and minimal layering.
LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION The third technique in the layers and external line series illustrates how to create an effective combination of layering with a disconnected top.
LAYERS WITH A NATURAL OUTLINE This extremely commercial hair shape concludes the C series and shows how to combine a layered interior with a natural looking outline.
1
LAYERS & EXTERNAL LINES LAYERS WITH AN OUTLINE
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I
THE OUTLINE SHAPE
90
c
LAYERS WITH AN OUTLINE
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II
DETERMINING THE CORRECT LENGTH PROPORTIONS AND TEXTURE
LAYERS WITH AN OUTLINE
c
91
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III
CROSS-CHECK USING HORIZONTAL SECTIONS
92
c
LAYERS WITH AN OUTLINE
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE IV
DEFINITION AND FINISH
LAYERS WITH AN OUTLINE
c
93
LAYERS WITH AN OUTLINE
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Texture
2.
Density
3.
Head shape
4.
Growth patterns
5.
Face shape
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
Length desired
2.
Product use
3.
Maintenance
4.
Styling
5.
When was last haircut
94
c
LAYERS WITH AN OUTLINE
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
Layers and a line
Square
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
Horizontal for the outline and vertical
Sides over the ear
Hand position - Inside the fingers and Over the fingers / Body position Outline - Standing in front of your sections - Top - Standing at the sides - Sides - Standing at the back - Back - Standing at the shoulders. HAND AND BODY POSITION:
FINISHING PRODUCTS:
Based on suitability
LAYERS WITH AN OUTLINE
c
95
2
LAYERS & EXTERNAL LINES LAYERED BOWL
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I
THE OUTLINE SHAPE
98
c
LAYERED BOWL
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II
DETERMINING THE RIGHT INTERNAL AND TEXTURE
LAYERED BOWL
c
99
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III
CROSS-CHECK USING HORIZONTAL SECTIONS
100
c
LAYERED BOWL
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE IV
REFINING THE OUTSIDE SHAPE WITH MINIMAL GRADUATION
LAYERED BOWL
c
101
LAYERED BOWL
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Density
2.
Texture
3.
Face shape
4.
Head shape
5.
Growth patterns
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
Length desired
2.
Styling
3.
Product use
4.
When was last haircut
5.
Maintenance
102
c
LAYERED BOWL
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
Layers and a Line
Outline - Round / Layering - Square
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
Outline - Horizontal and following the hairline / Horizontal and vertical
Front hairline
Hand position - Outline - Inside the fingers - Layering - Over the fingers / Body position - Outline - Standing in front of sections - Top and sides - Standing at the back Back - Standing at the shoulders. HAND AND BODY POSITION:
FINISHING PRODUCTS:
Based on suitability
LAYERED BOWL
c
103
3
LAYERS & EXTERNAL LINES LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I
SECTIONING THE TOP LENGTHS AND CUTTING THE OUTLINE SHAPE
106
c
LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II
DETERMINING THE RIGHT TEXTURE AND INTERNAL PROPORTIONS USING VERTICAL SECTIONS
LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION
c
107
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III
CROSS-CHECK USING HORIZONTAL SECTIONS
108
c
LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE IV
REFINING THE OUTLINE SHAPE WITH GRADUATION
LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION
c
109
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE V
CUTTING THE TOP LENGTHS
110
c
LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION
LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Density
2.
Head shape
3.
Texture
4.
Growth patterns
5.
Face shape
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
Length desired
2.
Product use
3.
How do they style
4.
Texture desired
5.
When was last haircut
112
c
LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
Layers with an outline and disconnection
Square
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
Outline - Horizontal following the hairline / Layering - Over the fingers
Sideburn / sides
Hand position - Outline - Inside the fingers - Layering - Over the fingers / Body position - Outline - Standing in front of sections - Sides - Standing in the back - Back Standing at the shoulders - Top - Standing at the sides of the chair HAND AND BODY POSITION:
FINISHING PRODUCTS:
Based on suitability
LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION
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LAYERS & EXTERNAL LINES LAYERS WITH A NATURAL OUTLINE
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I
FINDING THE RIGHT INTERNAL LENGTH, PROPORTIONS AND TEXTURE
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LAYERS WITH A NATURAL OUTLINE
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II
CROSS-CHECK USING HORIZONTAL SECTIONS
LAYERS WITH A NATURAL OUTLINE
c
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TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III
DEFINING AND FINISHING THE OUTLINE SHAPE
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LAYERS WITH A NATURAL OUTLINE
LAYERS WITH A NATURAL OUTLINE
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Head shape
2.
Texture
3.
Face shape
4.
Growth patterns
5.
Density
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
When was last haircut
2.
Product use
3.
Length desired
4.
Hairline details
5.
How do they style
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LAYERS WITH A NATURAL OUTLINE
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
Layers
Square
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
Horizontal and vertical
Crown
HAND AND BODY POSITION:
Hand position - Over the fingers / Body position - Top and sides - Standing
at the back - Back - Standing at the shoulders FINISHING PRODUCTS:
Based on suitability
LAYERS WITH A NATURAL OUTLINE
c
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TERMINOLOGY BEARD AREA
Growth of hair on the chin, lower cheeks of the face and neck area under the jawline which is styled and cut into a shape.
CLIPPERS
Electrical tool that cuts hair at different lengths by oscillating one blade next to another. In some situations guards can be used.
CONTOURS
The outline of the head. It is the edge or the lines that define the shape of the skull.
JAW
Broadly used term to describe the whole structure of the bone that opens and closes the mouth.
PARETO PRINCIPLE
Often referred to as the 80/20 rule and named after the Italian economist vilfredo pareto (1848-1923). This principle is used in barbering to describe that 80% of the work done only produces 20% of the result. It is the last 20% of the haircut that produces 80% of the result.
PARTING The area on top of the head where the hair separates and falls which is always determined by the crown area. PROPORTIONS
The area or size of the haircut in relation to the size and shape of client’s face and skull.
S.O.C
Abbreviation for scissor over comb. The process by which the hair is taken shorter than finger’s length. This technique can be used to create graduated shapes, flatter shapes or as a refinement technique.
SQUARE
This shape is often created within a men’s haircut to compliment the male bone structure.
SUPERFLUOUS
A surplus or unneeded amount of hair that should be removed.
UNISON
Used to describe the scissors and comb working together to cut the hair.
VAULT The space in the skull occupied by the brain. The vault is formed by the frontal, parietal, occipital and temporal bones.
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