The future of fashion: are bioengineered materials the next big trend? Rain Speake

The future of fashion: are bioengineered materials the next big trend?

Rain Speake discusses biomaterials start-ups that are utilising synthetic biology to develop sustainable materials for the fashion industry.

The textile industry is the one of the and do not reintegrate into the earth largest polluting industries in the once disposed of. Similarly, naturallyworld. Fabric fibres derived from un- occurring fibres can also negatively imsustainable raw materials are one of the major culprits in fashion’s ever“Through genetic engineering, scientists can alter the genetic growing pollution prob- makeup of these microorganisms lem. For instance, to produce biodegradable yet plastic-based synthetic hard-wearing fibers which are fibres such as polyester, subsequently made into nylon, and acrylic are all garments." extracted from non-renewable fossil fuels like petroleum. Their pact the environment. Protein-based reliance upon the petrochemical in- fibres such as wool and leather contribdustry is partic- ute to the rising methane output, ularly whilst plant-based fibres such as cotton unfavourable, as require toxic pesticides which seep into this sector is notori- the soil and contaminate water sources. ous for catastrophic In the last decade, synthetic biology oil spills and its role has been utilised to design and develop in biodiversity loss. more eco-friendly material alternatIn addition, synthetic ives. Synthetic biology is described as the construction of completely new biological systems and parts or the process of redesigning existing organisms for useful purposes. But this branch of science is not new. Humans have been harnessing its effects for centuries—just think of cheese, bread, beer, and even insulin. In the textiles industry, microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi, and yeasts act as fibres add to the mini “laboratories” or “factories” for global plastic pan- biomaterials to grow. Through genetic demic as they are engineering, scientists can alter the genon-biodegradable netic makeup of these microorganisms

to produce biodegradable yet hardwearing fibers which are subsequently made into garments.

Listed below are some examples of biomaterial start-ups that are currently combining the fields of biology, engineering, materials science, and design to develop sustainable products for future commercial use.

Modern Meadow produces ZOA™, an animal-free leather alternative made using collagen proteins derived from genetically engineered yeast. This material is more environmentally friendly compared to its traditional leather counterpart as its production does not require livestock rearing or farmland. This consequently reduces the greenhouse gas emissions and waste associated with cattle farming.

Bolt Threads currently has two trademarked textile biomaterials: Microsilk™ and Mylo™. Microsilk is fabricated through the bioengineering of yeast cells to produce spider silk proteins. When isolated and purified, the silk proteins are then spun into biodegradable fibres which have shockingly similar characteristics to acrylic and rayon. Unlike Microsilk, Mylo does not use genetic engineering technology. Instead, this bio-based leather is made from mycelium that is grown, processed, and dyed in indoor vertical farming facilities.

Spiber has developed a protein fibre called Brewed Protein™ using a microbial fermentation process that is also based on the DNA used to produce spider silk. This fibre boasts uses in a variety of applications, from delicate, silk-like filaments and cashmere-like yarns to resins imitating animal horn and tortoiseshell. AlgiKnit creates yarns derived from kelp which do not rely on harmful pesticides and fertilisers. Moreover, kelp is regarded as one of the most renewable organisms on the planet and is also known to combat global warming by sequestering CO2. As kelp is a natural resource, the yarns biodegrade under the correct composting conditions. However, outside these humid compost environments, they retain their durability and practicality which make them suitable for everyday wear.

For fashion designers, synthetic biology and biofabrication offer exciting new opportunities to create materials possessing specific textures and properties. For the planet, these biomaterial innovations hopefully signal the beginning of a greater and greener revolution within the textiles industry and beyond.

Modern Meadow

Bolt Threads

Spiber