The English Gentleman is on leave. Before The English Gentleman went away we followed him around Savile Row and St James’s in search of a selection of Cool Wool bespoke clothes for his holiday wardrobe.
Captured in both moving image and stills to create a story of his holiday planning, directed by Sean Thomas.
Mayfair & St. James’s. Budd (1910) Cutler and Gross (1969) Edward Green (1890) Emma Willis (1987) Foster and Son (1840) Globe Trotter (1897) Holland & Holland (1835) James Lock & Co (1676) John Lobb Ltd (1866) Leica (1849) Turnbull & Asser (1885)
Savile Row.
Anderson & Sheppard (1906) Chittleborough & Morgan (1974) Ede & Ravenscroft (1689) Edward Sexton (1969) Gieves & Hawkes (1785 & 1771) Henry Poole & Co (1806) H. Huntsman & Sons (1849) Kathryn Sargent (2012) Richard Anderson (2001) Richard James Bespoke (1992) Welsh & Jefferies (1917)
PASSPORT @WOOLMARK @SAVILEROWCOLLEC #COOLWOOL #THEENGLISHGENTLEMAN #TEGABROAD
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The English Gentleman this season takes the form of a series of images and a film featuring Ed Stoppard as The English Gentleman and his friends, dressed by Savile Row’s tailors and the gentlemen’s houses of Mayfair and St. James’s. Organising and Styling Committee: Anda Rowland, Sammy Aki, Audie Charles & Lloyd Almond. Credits: Produced by Anda Rowland, Sammy Aki and Lloyd Almond Directed by Sean Thomas The English Gentleman: Ed Stoppard The English Gentleman ‘Friends’ Emmanuel Lawal and Toby Wilkinson Daniella: Katerina Smutok Dancing Partner: Rebecca Szulc Café Royal Dukes Land Rover Rights free images, video and text will be available to download on: www.savile-row-london-collections.com Please send all press requests to: press@savile-row-london-collections.com Artwork concept by Jerome Faillant Dumas – www.agencelove.com Artwork production Hot Mash - www.hot-mash.com All images and films produced by Sean Thomas
LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN London Collections: Men emphasises both the creative and commercial importance of British brands and emerging talent as well as the rich cultural landscape that contributes to the inspiration and success of this huge sector. All events on the schedule are designed to showcase the breadth of British fashion talent, from the world’s most innovative emerging talents to global menswear brands and of course our inimitable Savile Row tailors, whose influence continues to spread around the world. Season five of London Collections: Men promises to be the very best one yet, as it has such a vast array of great shows, presentations, events, dinners and parties. LC:M has already become a staple of the menswear calendar, and is a fabulous way to kick off the season. In London for season five there are over one hundred different events, each one offering a completely different view if British menswear. We have all been overwhelmed by the enthusiasm for the project, and the scale and ambition of all the many designers who are now showing here is incredibly infectious. Not only does LC:M continue to attract British brands back to the UK using London as a platform, but it is also increasingly appealing to designers who previously showed in Milan, Paris or New York. This season for instance we welcome the likes of Moschino, Joseph and DKNY. London is truly the home of menswear! - Dylan Jones, OBE, Editor-In-Chief of GQ, Chairman of London Collections: Men
INTRODUCTION We are very grateful to Ed Stoppard, Sean Thomas and his production team, Emmanuel Lawal, Toby Wilkinson, CafÊ Royal, Dukes hotel and Land Rover for assisting in the production of this film and images. This season The English Gentleman is on leave. We see him prepare for his trip visiting the tailors of Savile Row and commissioning the bespoke pieces that he will need. The five items produced in the film for The English Gentleman include a multi pocket and versatile travel jacket by Holland and Holland in Holland and Sherry wool fabric, a lightweight Cool Wool dinner suit by Henry Poole in Charles Clayton fabric, wide leg Scabal Cool Wool trousers in the season’s bright colours by Kathryn Sargent, a navy blazer by Richard Anderson and a cream suit with patch pockets by Anderson and Sheppard. Each of these essential items create the all important capsule collection to accompany his extensive Cool Wool wardrobe.
THE WOOLMARK COMPANY As a supporter of London Collections: Men, The Woolmark Company continues to expand and develop their activities and designer partnerships during the shows, installations and events as a way to highlight the relevance of wool across the seasons within menswear and especially within the British fashion and textile manufacturing industry. As in previous seasons The Woolmark Company will join forces once again with Savile Row to present The English Gentleman in lightweight Cool Wool outfits whilst he is on his mission to prepare for holiday. It is a journey through the different facets of British men’s style during the preparation for his travels abroad, as he and his friends meet up to discuss the forthcoming travels and he enhances his travel wardrobe with bespoke key Merino wool items from the tailors of Savile Row. The English Gentleman images and film that have been created will celebrate the authentic English approach to menswear, highlighting lightweight Merino Wool yarns, fabrics and garments produced by some of the world’s most prestigious manufacturers and tailors which demonstrate the craftsmanship and heritage. The collaboration seeks to raise awareness of wool’s natural performance properties and versatility across the seasons and product categories. Merino Wool naturally ‘breathes’, effectively regulating the wearer’s body temperature keeping them cool in summer and warm in winter. Wool naturally absorbs moisture, and nullifies odour, resists static electricity and provides natural UV protection, does not ignite so is safe to wear. Merino Wool has a natural elasticity due to the fibre crimp which helps garments resist creasing and retain their shape, and are less likely to pill due to the longer fibre lengths used in manufacture to ensure guaranteed garment performance.
Delivering a Spring/Summer message of Wool is Cool for Summer, a series of images and a film have been created by Sean Thomas to remind consumers of the versatility, drape and softness wool has in lightweight fabrics and knitwear. They show the true versatility of Merino Wool and its abundance in garment uses, richness in colour and textures. Extreme gratitude is expressed to the luxury weavers, spinners, knitters and merchants who have supported this project supplying fabrics to the tailors for the creation of the range of iconic Merino Wool and wool blend garments. For Merino wool information please visit www.merino.com/coolwool
GARMENTS AND OUTFITS At Home Bespoke Merino wool dressing gown by Budd, pyjamas by Turnbull and Asser. Visiting the Tailors Richard James single breasted Cool Wool mohair, unlined backed, notch lapel suit with slanted pockets, four button cuff and side vents. Shirt by Emma Willis, tie and cufflinks by Budd, pocket square by Anderson and Sheppard, glasses Cutler and Gross and shoes Edward Green. Chittleborough and Morgan bespoke single-breasted 9oz Merino wool flannel three-piece combination suit. Plain jacket, checked waistcoat and striped trousers. Shirt by Budd, tie and umbrella by Anderson and Sheppard, shoes by Edward Green and sunglasses by Cutler and Gross.
Drinks at Dukes Ed Stoppard Gieves and Hawkes single breasted, three- piece Merino wool suit, slanted pockets, notch lapel cufflinks and pocket square by Budd, shirt and tie by Emma Willis, shoes by Edward Green and glasses by Cutler and Gross. Emmanuel Chittleborough and Morgan bespoke Cool Wool boating coat with antique military buttons worn with bespoke summer Cool Wool flannel pleated trousers with brace tops and wide turn-ups. Emma Willis tie and shirt, Budd cufflinks and pocket square, shoes by Edward Green. Toby Edward Sexton single-breasted cream Cool Wool three-piece suit, one button peak lapel, center vent, straight pocket with ticket pocket, worn with Turnbull and Asser Shirt, Budd pocket square and Emma Willis shirt and shoes by Edward Green.
Lady Dancing Edward Sexton bespoke cream Cool Wool suit and shirt, cufflinks by Emma Willis. Coffee at Café Royal Ed Stoppard Huntsman bespoke brown Cool Wool single-breasted blazer with single vent, unlined back, worn with Anderson and Sheppard trousers. Tie and pocket square by Anderson and Sheppard, scarf by Richard James and shoes by Edward Green. Emmanuel Anderson and Sheppard bespoke single-breasted notch lapel Cool Wool blazer worn with Anderson and Sheppard Cool Wool trousers, shirt, pocket square by Budd and shoes by Edward Green. Toby Anderson and Sheppard bespoke single-breasted blue Cool Wool twobutton notch lapel blazer with flap pockets, 4 button cuff with side vents worn with Huntsman bespoke cream Cool Wool trousers. Shirt by Turnbull and Asser, pocket square Anderson and Sheppard. Shoes Edward Green. Rio de Janeiro, Brazil - Daniella Johnstons of Elgin knitwear, lightweight Merino Wool men’s cricket jumper. The five items produced in the film for The English Gentleman include a multi pocket and versatile travel jacket by Holland and Holland in Holland and Sherry wool fabric, a lightweight Cool Wool dinner suit by Henry Poole in Charles Clayton fabric, wide leg Scabal Cool Wool trousers in the season’s bright colours by Kathryn Sargent, a navy blazer by Richard Anderson and a cream suit with patch pockets by Anderson and Sheppard.
SAVILE ROW TAILORS
Anderson & Sheppard Since 1906, Anderson & Sheppard has had the honor of dressing some of the world’s most elegant and famous men. At Anderson & Sheppard we follow the traditions of Savile Row and dress the individual client. We neither license nor produce any made-to-measure or ready to wear suits or sports coats. Anderson & Sheppard has been a leading Savile Row firm from its beginnings in 1906. The fluid style of Per Anderson, trained by the great Frederick Scholte, was from the start the distinguishing feature of the house. Concern with easy movement and natural body line continues into the 21st century thanks to an unbroken transmission of skills. Today, many icons of male elegance rely on Anderson & Sheppard. Chittleborough & Morgan Chittleborough & Morgan are a traditional bespoke tailors of Savile Row, London.Roy Chittleborough and Joe Morgan are the skill and craftsmanship that gave life to the glorious suits of the legendary Tommy Nutter at NUTTERS of Savile Row. Now at their own firm, they are the only place that has a direct link to this iconic piece of sartorial history. Roy and Joe are still personally involved in each and every suit tailored at Chittleborough & Morgan. Ede & Ravenscroft For 320 years Ede & Ravenscroft has upheld its reputation as tailors of distinction. Meticulous craftsmanship has rewarded the company with commissions from royalty to the judiciary. Ede & Ravenscroft enjoys the privilege of being the tailors and robe makers of choice for twelve coronations. We provide ceremonial robes for all occasions, dress the judiciary (including providing handmade wigs) and ensure that graduates from all over the world look their best at graduation ceremonies. Personal clientele entrust Ede & Ravenscroft to deliver tailoring that’s fashionably stylish whilst remaining elegantly enduring. A new range of contemporary and traditional men’s tailoring offers enduringly fashionable clothing with a perfectly tailored modern twist.
SAVILE ROW TAILORS Edward Sexton Edward Sexton bespoke suits are individually hand cut, sewn and finished by our specialist team of tailors - many of whom have trained and worked with Edward for decades in our in-house workrooms producing garments to the highest attainable standards. Edward hand cuts a paper pattern for each client, which is then meticulously adjusted with each fitting. You will find him in the thick of the workroom ensuring each garment is constructed to his own refined system. He checks the harmony and elegance of his lines throughout the process. Edward reveres the close longstanding relationships with his team of trusted and experienced craftsmen. The understanding and shared experience within the team guarantees the elegance and sophistication of an Edward Sexton garment. Gieves & Hawkes Savile Row during the second half of the 19th century began to gain its reputation for tailoring and style. It came as no surprise therefore that Hawkes, the most prestigious military and court tailors in London, bought the building at No. 1.With the arrival of Hawkes in 1913 and the company’s later partnership with the great naval house of Gieves there begins a story extraordinarily intertwined with that of its previous owners. Four hundred and fifty years of shared experience and knowledge; one amazing location. The customer entering Number 1 Savile Row, seeking the finest levels of craftsmanship and personal service, discovers a world of quality, attention to detail and passion for the sartorial arts. Henry Poole We have occupied our current premises at 15 Savile Row since 1982. Our showroom and cutting room are situated on the ground floor with our tailoring workshops and Livery Department in the basement. Our
showroom offers an extensive variety of over 6,000 cloth swatches which range from luxury worsted wool suitings originating from mills in Huddersfield, Yorkshire, to rich flannels from the West Country and pure cashmere, together with fine tweeds from the Islands and Scottish Borders. We continue to maintain our long tradition as eminent tailors to overseas clients. We make regular visits to France, Germany, Luxembourg, Switzerland, Austria, Japan and ten major cities in the USA. Henry Poole & Co was the first Savile Row tailor to enter the Japanese market.
H. Huntsman For over 160 years Huntsman has dressed a veritable Who’s Who of customers, from royalty and heads of state through to stars of stage and screen. The company houses over eighty ledger and visitor books, as well as patterns and photographs, all testifying to a fascinating customer history. This rich heritage and inspiring client portfolio has made Huntsman what it is today; a supreme tailor that continues to create iconic clothing in the distinct Huntsman house style. Huntsman was founded in 1849 by Henry Huntsman and was originally located just around the corner from our present location in Albermarle Street. The entire bespoke process takes place here on the premises, with the cutting room and workshops at its heart. At Huntsman we use tailoring techniques that have remained unchanged for hundreds of years, much like our values; our hands-on passion for tailoring remains at the very heart of our business. Holland & Holland Holland & Holland was founded by Harris Holland (1806-1896) in the year 1835 and offer a bespoke tailoring service to ensure our clients can enjoy custom made clothing, in the styles and textures they desire. Holland & Holland constantly strive to create new and unique products which are not available anywhere else in the world. These special project showcase our finest gifts and accessories and are either created as worldwide one-offs, or as part of an extremely limited edition.
SAVILE ROW TAILORS Kathryn Sargent With 15 years of Savile Row training and experience to draw upon, Kathryn Sargent provides a luxury bespoke tailoring service for men and for women. A devotee of fine British tailoring, she is based at No.6 Sackville Street, near Savile Row, in the premises of legendary tailoring firm Meyer & Mortimer, whose clients included the English dandy Beau Brummell in the late 1700s. Skilled in the finest traditions of hand-made clothing, Kathryn was the first female head cutter of a Savile Row firm and is one of the most admired cutters of her generation. Having established her own business in January 2012, she has the freedom to create, cut and make the most beautiful garments to the highest quality with passion, great care and meticulous attention to detail. From beginning to end, the Kathryn Sargent Bespoke Tailoring process is a creative collaboration between the client and Kathryn, who hand-cuts the pattern of each and every garment herself. By employing traditional Savile Row tailoring techniques in a fresh and contemporary approach, she ensures that the finished garments are always unique and are always a stylish compliment to the individual wearer. Richard Anderson Producing only the highest-quality garments, Richard Anderson clients have come to expect excellence as a given. Richard Anderson’s clientele many of whom are leaders in their own fields - are uncompromising in their demand for quality. Richard Anderson Ltd is dedicated to producing the finest handcrafted British products for its clients. The company is living up to the vision held by its founders: to draw on the tradition and craftsmanship of Savile Row to create suits of life-long quality for modern men and women. Customers recognise this dedication, and although the company travels abroad several times a year, many customers travel great distances to visit the Savile Row showroom. Richard Anderson draws discerning customers from all over the world to the English Institution that is Savile Row.
Richard James Since 1992 Richard James has quickly established a reputation for itself as a leading luxury brand that has set the standard for contemporary tailoring and menswear. The first of the ‘New Establishment’ tailors on Savile Row, Richard James is proud to have contributed to revitalising what has long been acknowledged as the world centre for tailoring with its bold, progressive take on the timeless and traditional. Richard James opened with one small store on Savile Row, a London address that has an incredible history and tradition of tailoring and men’s style spanning almost 200 years. Savile Row is renowned the world over as the byword for the best British tailoring, to the extent that even the Japanese word for suit is ‘Saburo’, a derivation of the street’s name. We recognise and respect the traditions of Savile Row, but do so with boldness and vibrancy and an eye for the individual. Our philosophy is to produce classic clothing of unsurpassable quality, but to push the boundaries through design, colour and cut. Welsh & Jefferies Welsh and Jefferies opened in the early twentieth century on Eton High Street, and during the First World War the company built a reputation as a formidable military tailor. The firm made uniforms for the officers of many regiments, such as the Rifle Brigade and Coldstream Guards. Welsh and Jefferies is a small but neat shop situated at number 20 Savile Row. In January 2012 the business was taken over by James Cottrell who has been working at Welsh and Jefferies for 7 years and his partner Yingmei Quan. James Cottrell started his career in Kilgour at the age of 16. In the early 1980s James left Kilgour for a position in Tommy Nutter’s workshop which lasted 5 years. He then spent 18 years working at Henry Poole before accepting the position as head Cutter at Welsh and Jefferies. Yingmei Quan is a junior partner at Welsh & Jefferies. In 2011 she won the Golden Shears competition which enhanced her reputation as one of the better female cutters on Savile Row. She then started to attract her own female client base to the company and to this day it is evergrowing.
LOCATIONS Café Royal True to its original glamorous spirit, Café Royal has reopened as a 21st century luxury hotel in the heart of London. Ideally located on Regent Street, in the beating heart of the West End Café Royal is perfectly positioned for exclusive shopping or exploring London’s landmarks. To the west is glamorous Mayfair and to the east Soho’s fashionable nightlife. Paying homage to the heritage of the building, grand historic areas have been sensitively restored, while 160 serene new guest rooms and suites (including 6 historic suites) have been created in a refined style by world-renowned David Chipperfield Architects. Combining contemporary bedrooms with historic spaces reminiscent of Café Royals fabled past gives the hotel a calm, assured and distinctive aura. Already one of London’s most fashionable destinations Café Royal offers an eclectic mix of restaurants and bars, including the glamorous Louis XVI style Grill Room, featuring vintage Champagne and live entertainment. Capture Café Royal’s decadent past with Absinth cocktails in the Bar, feel the pulse of London in the Ten Room restaurant or unwind in the urban retreat of the in-house Akasha Holistic Wellbeing Centre.
Dukes Hotel The historical courtyard at Dukes St. James’s Place has been traced back to 1532 when King Henry VIII bought a convent at the bottom of the hill. In its place he built St. James’s Palace as a hunting lodge and refuge from the feckless gossip which pervaded court life at the Palace of Whitehall. St James’s Palace remained a royal residence until the mid19th Century when Queen Victoria made Buckingham Palace her home. During Charles II’s five year reign from 1660, St. James’s Place became the highly fashionable area that still is nowadays. After the King’s death, the courtyard was known as Cleveland Court and the two houses which
it contained formed a small inn. These buildings became Dukes in 1908. Awarded “AA Hotel Of The Year London 2013/2014” and «England’s Leading Hotel 2013» Dukes London is a hidden gem in the heart of St. James Mayfair, where quintessential British charm and cosmopolitan luxury blend to create a timeless, hospitable atmosphere. Dukes London provides a superior service that will make you feel as if you never left home whilst you enjoy the outstanding comfort of exclusive 5 star deluxe service. Unwind in the legendary Dukes Bar where we blend one of the best Martinis in the world and experience the culinary excellence awarded 3 AA Rosettes in ‘Thirty Six’ restaurant. If you prefer embrace true English chic with champagne afternoon tea in the opulent Drawing Room or stylish Champagne Lounge. Dukes London creates personalised experiences and it promises an unforgettable, luxurious experience steeped in heritage.
Sotheran’s Founded in York in 1761, established in London in 1815, Henry Sotheran Limited has a long and distinguished history. For over 200 years we have been offering unsurpassed opportunities to collectors and enthusiasts, from the purchase of the libraries of Laurence Sterne in 1768, and Charles Dickens in 1870; the complete stock and copyright of the ornithologist and publisher John Gould; to the successful bid in 1980 for the final draft manuscript of Gilbert White’s Natural History of Selbourne, bought on behalf of the Gilbert White Museum. The great American collector of Shakespeare, H.C. Folger, acquired much of his collection, including the Halliwell-Phillipps library, through Sotheran’s, and we were agents in the purchase of the world-famous Althorp Library from Earl Spencer for the John Rylands Library in 1892. Throughout our history we have prided ourselves on the quality and condition of our books, and our friendly service. Our premises just off Piccadilly in the heart of London’s West End are spacious and elegantly appointed, and we welcome regular clients and passers-by alike to wander in and browse our stock in a relaxing and convivial atmosphere.
SHIRTS AND ACCESSORIES Budd Located in the Piccadilly Arcade since the company’s inception in 1910, Budd has been making bespoke, made to measure and ready to wear shirts from its Mayfair and Hampshire workshops for over 100 years. As well as shirts, the company specialises in gentlemen’s haberdashery, carry an extensive range of dresswear, nightwear, ties, exceptional bows, socks and braces. The company is passionate in celebrating and supporting British craft and workmanship with all of our product sourced in the UK. We are proud to stock many menswear items that are tricky to find today, such as waistcoat slips, stiff bibbed shirts, detachable collars and the softest chamois gloves.
Emma Willis Emma Willis, English shirt maker in London, trained at the Slade School of Art before starting her business in 1987, designing and making mens luxury shirts, all made in England. In 1999 she opened her elegant and intimate shop in Jermyn Street, on the corner of St James’ and in 2010 her English shirt making factory opened in the centre of historic Gloucester. Her philosophy is to adhere to traditional English shirt making techniques, using luxurious Italian and Swiss Cottons, Silks and Linens, many of which are exclusive to her collections.
SHIRTS AND ACCESSORIES Turnbull & Asser Turnbull & Asser was established in London in 1885 and has stood proudly as Britain’s leading shirt maker and men’s outfitter since that time. Our shirts are crafted by expert, skilled craftspeople, all of whom are based in England. Unlike others who might claimthe same thing, ‘Made in England’ means exactly that for Turnbull & Asser, and always will do. We carefully select fabrics and use traditional techniques to ensure fit, comfort, style and durability. We established our shop on Jermyn Street in 1903 and since then we have retained everything that makes this distinctive area of London. Turnbull & Asser now has stores in four locations, including one in New York, and a global presence but has never lost sight of the inimitably British style and sense of luxury that stands it apart. Throughout our 130-year history our customers have come from the very highest echelons of society and our clientele is as illustrious now as it ever has been. A proud holder of a Royal Warrant from the Prince of Wales for shirt making, we have dressed world leaders, politicians, royalty, film stars, and style icons – including James Bond.
SHOES Edward Green Edward Green have been making the finest goodyear welted shoes in Northampton since 1890. Meticulously crafted from hand-finished natural burnishing calfskin for their signature handsome patina, Edward Greens are a perfect accompaniment to the best of Savile Row. Through the years Edward Green shoes have been chosen by the Duke of Windsor, Ernest Hemingway, Cole Porter and Lord Mountbatten. Today Edward Greens are available in leading boutiques from Tokyo to Honololu, as well as their own shops in St James and Paris. John Lobb - Bootmaker The first John Lobb was a lame Cornish farmboy whose mastery of the Gentle Craft of last and awl brought him golden awards in the Great International Exhibitions of Victorian times. He became the proud holder of a Royal Warrant as Bootmaker to Edward, Prince of Wales. The Prince, as King Edward VII, was to give his name to a whirling Edwardian era of opulence and splendour; an era in which Lobb shoes became a synonym for quality and elegance. The firm today proudly holds two Royal Warrants to His Royal Highness The Duke of Edinburgh and His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales. In the strongest possible contrast to the factory-made article, a pair of Lobb’s handmade shoes are a work of art, unique to their owner. They are created by the close teamwork of a number of specialized craftsmen, all of whom have served long apprenticeships to acquire their particular skills.
HATS Lock & Co Hatters Established in 1676, James Lock & Co. Ltd. is the oldest hat shop in the world, as well as being one of the oldest family owned businesses still in existence. Over the years, Lock’s have supplied headwear to many tens of thousands of people from all walks of life who have sought out quality and service as well as many historical figures including Sir Winston Churchill, Charles Chaplin, Sir Anthony Eden, the Duke of Wellington and Admiral Lord Nelson. Today they hold the royal warrants for His Royal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh and His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales.
GLASSES Cutler & Gross Cutler and Gross was founded in 1969 by Graham Cutler and Tony Gross who opened their optician in Knightsbridge stocking handmade bespoke frames. Through their mutual passion for innovative design, they spearheaded the revolution that turned eyewear from medical necessity into a key fashion accessory. Their fashion-forward designs, which were ahead of their time, became an instant success when launched in 1982 during Paris Fashion Week. Since then the wholesale collection has developed from a purely sunglasses collection to also incorporating optical designs. By tapping into that elusive British eccentricity, Cutler and Gross maintain that they never try to impose a fashion on their clients. They are innovative but never complicated and are motivated only by the innate desire to make people look and feel good. Though their ideas are far reaching, Mr Cutler and Mr Gross have always remained rooted in London. They have never hidden the fact that they ‘love the British for their non-conformity’ and it is in Britain where they fuse their cutting edge design with the excellence of master opticians.
CAMERAS Leica Camera Leica Camera, the legendary German camera and sport optics brand, has been taking its discerning clientele on a journey of connoisseurship for 99 years. Designed with a passion for perfection and a focus on optical experience, Leica products are heralded throughout the world by photography enthusiasts and design aficionados alike. From classically designed compact cameras and premium leather cases, to superior binoculars and iconic rangefinder equipment, the full Leica photography and sport optics product portfolio can be discovered at the Leica Store Mayfair, located at 34 Bruton Place, just off Berkeley Square. For more information: www.leica-storemayfair.co.uk.
LUGGAGE Globe Trotter Globe-Trotter is a modern heritage brand established in 1897. Founded by Englishman, David Nelken, in Saxony Germany, the company soon returned to the UK in 1901 where it has remained ever since. Today, Globe-Trotter products are style icons adopted by purveyors of traditional craftsmanship and a timeless aesthetic. Globe-Trotter cases have been used over the last 100 years by an enviable client list. Captain Robert Falcon Scott travelled with Globe-Trotter on the infamous Antarctic expedition in 1912. Sir Winston Churchill used a Globe-Trotter Dispatch Case whilst he was Chancellor of the Exchequer in 1924. HM Queen Elizabeth II chose Globe-Trotter for her honeymoon luggage in 1947 (and continues to use her cases to this day). Sir Edmund Hilary ascended to first base camp with Globe-Trotter during his conquest of Everest in 1953.
Foster & Son Foster & Son are long established makers of leather goods and luggage. Manufactured from the finest English bag hide and bridle leathers, we offer both made to order and off the shelf pieces. Our signature Racing Green canvas and London Tan Bag Hide suitcases have been a popular choice for over 40 years, whilst our traditional Attach. cases, Briefcases and Gladstone bags are the perfect complement to our range of traditional bespoke shoes. In the upcoming months, we hope to build on our traditional line of leather goods and introduce several pieces that will inspire the contemporary gentleman whilst preserving the craftsmanship that goes into each product.
MILLS & MERCHANTS Merino Wool - Fibre, Spinners, Weavers, Knitters The traditions in the production of Merino wool knitwear, fabric and garment manufacture have long-lines of family heritage and craftsmanship that have been in existence for over 450 hundred years. There are many kinds of wool produced in many countries, and all of it is natural, biodegradable and renewable, but most of the soft, fine Merino wool used in the fashion and fine apparel industry comes from Australia, whose pristine environments have the precise combination of sunshine, grass and rain needed to keep Merino sheep happy and healthy. Many of the Merino farms have been in the same families for over a century, and their expertise and dedication have resulted in breeding programs producing ever finer, softer fleeces. An individual Merino sheep yields 18kg of wool each and every year of its adult life. Specialists in wool grading and sorting select these fine fibres, much akin to a Michelin star restaurant, it is this selection of the ingredient fibre that determines the resulting softness and fineness and end use of the garment. Innovations in processing techniques and modern machinery extends these traditional techniques and procedures to enable finer, lighter and, in some cases, with additional finishing practices softer, loftier, brushed surface fabrics or knitwear; or smooth, clean and pristine tailoring fabrics to be produced. Today the traditional-looking tweeds can be much softer and lighter to wear, making them more appropriate for today’s lifestyle and daily environments, and Merino wool can be used in non-wool traditional fabrics as in the case of Merino wool blend corduroys where the wool is used for increased comfort, reduced creasing and fabric performance and recovery. The whole industry pipeline is committed to innovation and development, each adding an important ingredient to the mix, bringing their knowledge and legacy into the craftsmanship and refinement of the bespoke tailoring.On the following pages are some of the industry’s leading suppliers of fine, luxurious Merino wool cloths, knitwear and yarns.
MILLS & MERCHANTS Abraham Moon & Sons Ltd Founded by Abraham Moon in 1837, Abraham Moon & Sons Ltd is one of the few remaining totally vertical wool mills left in the UK. We control the entire manufacturing process from the initial design, through dyeing, spinning, and weaving before finally finishing and despatching. We pride ourselves on a balance between modern, innovative design and traditional craft and we are very proud to be part of this exceptional heritage. For many years our ranges have continued to offer the assurance of luxurious quality and a unique understanding of the ever-changing needs in the clothing industry. The traditional fabrics combined with innovative and modern use of colour and design have helped us to continue to serve leading fashion labels, designers and retail customers across the world. Manufacturing Merino wool, Lambswool, Shetland and Cashmere blend fabrics in tailoring and outerwear weights, we design for men and ladies wear with equal emphasis and care. Please contact marketing.dept@moons.co.uk for further information. Butterworh & Roberts Established as merchants in 1864, Butterworth & Roberts took the direction to design and produce their cloth in-house in 1868. Since that day they have been producing high quality traditional cloths for suits, skirts, kilts and jacketing. Butterworth & Roberts typify the tradition of excellence for which the Yorkshire textile industry is famous for worldwide, and remain resolute in their effort to promote tradition whilst refraining from modernist approach. The collection includes beautiful jacketing designs in lambswool and cashmere blends, rustic country tweeds and classic coatings in hopsack, cavalry and covert qualities to name a few. The company’s aim is to draw strength from the past and to be steadfast in upholding the British tradition of classic design and manufacture with an emphasis on quality. Please contact cloth@butterworthroberts.co.uk for further information.
Charles Clayton By weaving the finest count yarns, often mixing the highest quality merino wool with other luxury noble fibres such as cashmere and silk, we bring you some of the finest, most luxurious worsted cloths. Cloths that are subtly stylish, a pleasure to work into garments, perform consistently and drape well. Garments tailored from Charles Clayton cloth are uplifting and inspiring to wear. Charles Clayton is now part of Luxury Fabrics and the SIL Holdings group of companies. Our ethos is completely in line with that of the group – Textile Excellence. The Charles Clayton brand will keep its individuality and design independence whilst being able to serve customers like you better through financial strength as well as the ability to buy effectively, manufacture efficiently and make available the extensive range of collection and stock service fabrics at such accessible prices. Dormeuil In 1842, Jules Dormeuil created a family business that would soon become world leader in supplying luxury fine cloths. For 170 years, The House of Dormeuil has developed timeless and iconic fabrics that have cemented the Company’s reputation across all five continents. From Kings to Presidents, Hollywood to connoisseurs, Dormeuil continues to dress the world’s elite with timeless British elegance. Today, Dormeuil fits comfortably into the world of contemporary luxury, pioneering innovative cloths using the world’s finest and rarest natural fibres. Dormeuil’s collections include the exquisite Haute Couture range that continues to tempt leading fashion houses of our time while also offering limited edition cloths for the extraordinary. These exceptional fabrics are developed by Dormeuil’s own design team and manufactured in non-other than England, using traditional methods that are blended with the very best of modern technology.
MILLS & MERCHANTS Dugdale Bros The last remaining cloth merchant based in Huddersfield town centre, the home of finest English cloth, Dugdale Bros & Co Ltd have, quite literally, been at the centre of cloth making since 1896. The cloth making heritage of the town has been a constant source of inspiration to Dugdale, employing highly skilled designers, weavers and finishers has meant their cloths have always found favour with the finest tailors, couturiers, designers and garment makers worldwide. Acquiring Fisher & Co, latterly Thomas Fisher, in 1961 allowed Dugdale to enhance their archive, already preserved over several generations. This combined with unbroken sales in most global markets has allowed the company to develop a very wide offering of cloths from luxurious wools and cashmeres, lightweight mohairs and cottons, and wool blend corduroys, to their speciality worsted and iconic White Rose tweeds and Countrywear. Dugdale Brothers purpose will always remain to define the .Englishness in their cloths. Please contact enquiries@dugdalebros.com for more information. Hield Brothers Hield Brothers was established in 1922 during the reign of His Majesty King George V. The company was founded by entrepreneurs David and Hugh Hield as a symbol of perpetual British quality, to this day supplying the finest quality English cloth to some of the fashion world’s most exclusive labels. Today whilst constantly drawing inspiration from the past, innovative finishing and dyeing techniques enable Hield Brothers to give a modern twist keeping the collection both fresh and up-to-date. Along with seasonal collections of cloth, Hield supports an extensive classic collection for both suits and jackets in a variety of compositions. In addition to the manufacturing of cloth Hield Brothers is supported by furnishings and lifestyle divisions with the former recently supplying cloth used in Her Majesty the Queen Elizabeth II’s state limousine. Please contact sales@hieldbros.com for further information.
Holland & Sherry From its conception, over 170 years ago, Holland & Sherry has continued to supply prestigious tailors and luxury brands with the finest cloth. In 1836 Stephen George Holland & Frederick Sherry began the business as woollen merchants at 10 Old Bond Street, London, specialising in both woollen and silk cloths. 1886 saw Holland & Sherry moved premises to Golden Square, at the time the epicentre of the woollen merchanting trade. By 1900 the firm was exporting to many countries. By 1982 the business moved to Savile Row, and remains as our registered head office. In 1968 Holland & Sherry bought Scottish cloth merchant, Lowe Donald, based at Peebles, in the Scottish Borders and located their distribution to the purpose built warehouse there. Of all the cloth merchants of Golden Square which were established in the late 1800’s, only Holland & Sherry remains. Holland & Sherry kindly donated the fabric that was used for the exclusive 100 ties made in celebration of The English Gentleman event as gifting for leading journalists, buyers and invited guests, as well as being worn by models in the presentation. For further information contact enquiries@hollandandsherry.co.uk. John Foster John Foster built an entire community for his highly skilled workforce around the famous Black Dyke Mills in the heart of the West Yorkshire textile industry. He was an innovator, winning awards for his fabrics at the Great Exhibition of 1851. Today our business continues to innovate and to create fine worsted Merino wool and mohair fabrics that deliver that British look and are easy and efficient to work with. Taking advantage of new yarns, latest weaving techniques and innovative finishing skills, John Foster fabrics are renowned and recognised for their quality around the World. John Fosters is now part of Luxury Fabrics and the SIL Holdings group of companies. Our ethos is completely in line with that of the group – Textile Excellence. Escorial has partnered with Reid & Taylor and John Foster who have developed a traditional technique to bring out the best in the Escorial fibre to produce an extraordinary Escorial cloth. Available in over 100 designs in 3 stock supported books, the collection reflects classic British style and integrity.
MILLS & MERCHANTS Johnsons of Elgin Johnstons of Elgin is located alongside the River Lossie in Scotland Highland, near Inverness. Since its establishment in 1797, it has been using the most luxury wool in producing the high quality fabric, knitwear and accessories. All knitwear from Johnstons is produced in Hawick, the boundary area of Scotland. Since 1920s, the brand is famous for its outstanding quality Supplying finished knitwear products to many of the world’s leading fashion brands, and to patrons of the world’s most exclusive tailors and department stores, the name Johnstons of Elgin will not be unfamiliar. Johnston’s have been working with fine wool for over 200 years, and their long traditions of craftsmanship are evident in every garment or fabric they produce. Insisting on only the best wool fibres, and committed to using only natural, sustainable materials wherever possible. Johnstons of Elgin, the largest independent producer of Scottish Woollens and Fine Cashmere products were granted The Royal Warrant of Appointment to The Prince of Wales with effect from 1st January 2013. For further information visit www.johnstonscashmere.com. Moxon Moxon, a prestigious British textile manufacturer of luxury woollen and worsted cloth, recognised for its antiquated manufacturing process and considered to be one of the finest cloth makers in the world. Established in 1556, it is without question the oldest in existence today. The Moxon cloth collection is exclusively designed in limited quantities, using only rare wool and noble fibres in qualities ranging from ultra-light wools through to heavy antiqued flannels. Boasting an extensive archive of woollen and worsted samples, the Moxon ‘library’ houses every swatch dating back to its origin, and suit lengths are taken from each piece with historical bearing and stored in vaulted atmospheric conditions. Moxon’s priority has been to uphold traditional methods in the creation of handmade cloth, which in the age of mass production, are of bygone
eras, and the attention to detail is evident from the careful sourcing of raw material, through to the finishing process where even the water supply is taken from private reservoirs to ensure the water is soft and untreated, proving that quality across all stages in production dating back to its origin, and suit lengths are taken from each piece with historical bearing and stored in vaulted atmospheric conditions. Moxon’s priority has been to uphold traditional methods in the creation of handmade cloth, which in the age of mass production, are of bygone eras, and the attention to detail is evident from the careful sourcing of raw material, through to the finishing process where even the water supply is taken from private reservoirs to ensure the water is soft and untreated, proving that quality across all stages in production is paramount. Please contact info@moxon.co.uk for more information. is paramount. Please contact info@moxon.co.uk for more information.
Reid & Taylor The Reid & Taylor collection is a distinctive and exciting range of twist suiting and jacketing, that set the standards that others aspire to. Providing you with a unique look, our range of high quality twist suiting delivers depth, colour and exceptional performance. Alongside we produce a top quality jacketing collection of striking individual designs in a range of weights, to provide you with fabrics with which you can create garments of style for every occasion. Our talented in-house designers innovate, season after season, to create the cloths that are chosen by fashion houses and designers around the world. Reid and Taylor is now part of Luxury Fabrics and the SIL Holdings group of companies. Our ethos is completely in line with that of the group – Textile Excellence. Escorial from Reid and Taylor is the name given to an ancient pure breed of small sheep and its wool. The Escorial distinction is in the fibre. This resilient naturally coiled fibre creates unsurpassed luxurious fabrics with a natural crease resistance. Escorial has partnered with Reid & Taylor and John Foster who have developed a traditional technique to bring out the best in the Escorial fibre to produce an extraordinary Escorial cloth. Available in over 100 designs in 3 stock supported books, the collection reflects classic British style and integrity.
MILLS & MERCHANTS Scabal Scabal is world renowned as the most superior fabric supplier for men’s clothing. Its production and operation covers 65 countries and regions worldwide. Ever since its establishment, Scabal has dedicated itself to offering the fine fabric for all top Bespoke brands globally. It also has its own brand of ready-to-wear and accessories. In 1939, Scabal was established in Brussels, mainly engaged in the apparel fabric production, ready-to-wear design & making, as well as the customized services. The brand helps its customers express themselves perfectly with well-selected fabric and exquisite design. All of its apparel fabric is produced in either Britain or Italy. The binding part of all its product has the logo of Scabal, which is the symbol of quality and status. For further information visit www.scabal.com. Taylor and Lodge Since 1883, Taylor and Lodge have been weaving fine worsteds in Huddersfield, England. Its reputation for quality fabric comes from over a century of experience. In 2004 Taylor and Lodge became part of the Bulmer and Lumb Group which was looking to expand the group’s potential into luxury products. The production consists of two comprehensive collections annually aimed at our most important markets, which are: the Far East, Europe and the Middle East. These seasonal collections consist of superfine worsted suiting, jacketing, overcoating and dishdasha fabrics with weights ranging from 165gms to 700gms/mtr. The prestigious collection of Taylor and Lodge offers a range of fabrics which focuses on the yarns produced by the group. It is a specialist fabric company that uses the finest wool, mohair, silk and linen available to create a range of fabrics with differing weights and designs for both suiting and jacketing. The design team create contemporary fabrics manufactured using traditional production methods. Please contact headoffice@taylorandlodge.com for more information.
William Halstead William Halstead is based in the historic textile city of Bradford, West Yorkshire and are weavers of luxury suiting fabrics for many of the top fashion houses. Today the company enjoys an unrivalled worldwide reputation for designing and weaving some of the world’s finest speciality mohairs and fine worsteds for both mens and ladieswear suitings. The company was founded in 1875 in Bradford by William Halstead (18151924). Late in 1889 with the business expanding rapidly, William built Stanley Mills to which the company transferred in 1890 and still operates from today. William continued to work at Stanley Mills until he died in his office at the mill in 1924 after 53 years in the business. Since then the business has been run by a further five members of the family until in 2006 the company was acquired by SIL Holdings Ltd, another Bradford based family textile business. SIL are one of the largest speciality fibre manufacturers and merchants in the world. Z. Hinchliffe & Sons Ltd Z. Hinchliffe & Sons Ltd are a family owned and operated business based in Yorkshire and Scotland. Spinning was first recorded in 1766 and successive generations have mastered and improved this trade whilst embracing the latest innovative production methods and controls. Over 200 years of experience allow Z. Hinchliffe & Sons Ltd to provide the softest and most luxurious yarns on the market today to satisfy their discerning customers who value quality. On receipt of scoured Merino lambswool ‘state of the art’ technology allows Z. Hinchliffe and Sons to process in-house; from dyeing to spinning. Products are 100% UK produced yarns, using 100% electronically controlled mule spinning, setting the world’s benchmark standard. With dyeing and colour matching as a forte, the care taken in processing is essential to retaining the soft handle of premier natural fibres to maintain the luxury product. World renowned as setting the benchmark for the best Merino lambswool yarns, they pride themselves as being an important supplier to international brands both in the UK and worldwide. For further information contact office@zhinchliffe.co.uk.