IN THE STATE OF LEI

story RINA MAE JABOLINA

I watched Aunty’s fingers move gracefully, yet swiftly, as she spun the softened ti leaves, braiding each strand while intertwining silky red torch ginger petals. Her hand movements resembled a perfectly choreographed dance. She didn’t speak or instruct me in any of the steps. As the sweet floral fragrance delighted my senses, I watched quietly and in admiration of the intricate arrangement lengthening. Aunty Jocelyn is a lei (floral garland) artist, and she is teaching me the cherished art of lei making.

This beloved art was introduced to Hawai‘i by Polynesian voyagers. Ancient Hawaiians wore lei for adornment and to distinguish rank, royalty and wealth Flowers, leaves, shells, seeds, nuts, feathers and even bones and teeth of various animals were used as craft materials. As a tangible representation of Hawai‘i’s aloha spirit—love, warmth, hospitality, respect and peace—the lei will always remain a cultural identifier of Hawai‘i, and the art of lei making is a treasured tradition that continues to endure.

The art is taught in Hawai'i’s school system, public and private workshops, and often at hotels and resorts that offer lei making as a guest activity. If you have not yet treated yourself to a lei making experience, you should. The pleasant atmosphere and tropical scents relaxes your mood, but awakens your inner creativity. In creating your lei, you’ll have a vast assortment of vibrant flowers and natural foliage to choose from. No official meanings are tied to the different colors of Hawaiian lei, but the materials selected create special meanings and are often chosen for specific occasions. Though there are countless beautiful lei designs, it’s worth familiarizing yourself with some of the most popular lei you’ll find throughout the Hawaiian Islands.

Lei

Ti plants grow abundantly in Hawai‘i, especially on the Big Island. Since green ti leaves are easily obtainable, it is used in many lei creations. A common ti leaf lei design is a simple braid, which can be accented with tropical flowers. Believed by Hawaiians to bring good fortune and ward off evil spirits, lā‘ī lei were at one point reserved only for Hawaiian royalty. Over time, however, the lā‘ī evolved into a lei appropriate for all to wear and for any given occasion.

Lei

The maile lei is said to be the noblest of lei. Maile is a native shrub that boasts an unforgettable woodsy vanilla scent. Thick leafy strands are knotted and then twisted together to form an open-ended garland. Maile lei are also believed to protect the wearer and bestow luck. In ancient Hawai‘i, this lei of royalty was exchanged by chiefs as a symbol of peace. The maile lei continues to symbolize peace, respect, friendship and love. Though maile lei can be worn by anyone, they are often reserved for males during special occasions and ceremonies. Grooms will often sport this elegant garland below the belt line, often down to the knees.

Lei

The kukui tree, or candlenut tree, is the state tree of Hawai‘i, and grows everlasting sleek dark nuts that are painstakingly sanded down, polished, punctured, and strung to form a kukui nut lei. In the past, kukui nut lei were only worn by royalty. Like lā‘ī and maile lei, kukui nut lei can be worn by anyone today. Because of its popularity, kukui nut lei are commercially produced in many colors and imported into the state of Hawai‘i. Regardless of origin, however, the kukui nut lei is usually given in the islands as a sign of respect and appreciation.

Lei ‘Okika (Orchid Lei)

These delicate, long-lasting lei, often found in hues of purple, white, and green, are usually crafted using Dendrobium orchids, which grow favorably on the Big Island, also nicknamed the Orchid Isle. There is an amazing array of methods of stringing orchids that new designs appear in competitions and lei shops every year. Available year round, ‘okika lei are usually given as an expression of thanks or welcome to visitors.

Lei Pīkake (Peacock or Jasmine Lei)

Pīkake (meaning peacock) lei are made from Arabian jasmine and not peacock feathers as one would think. This lei dedicated to women received its name by Hawai‘i’s beloved Princess Ka‘iulani who named it after her favorite bird. In creating a pīkake lei, the buds, rather than fully bloomed flowers, are strung together, and several lei strands are combined to create a “rope lei.” The sweet-smelling pīkake lei has taken on a romantic meaning in the Hawaiian Islands. According to custom, one lei strand or two could symbolize friendship; three or four—a romance; five or six—“I love you;” more—you are the bride.

Lei Po‘o (Head Lei)

Lei po‘o, a lei worn on the po‘o (head), has recently increased in popularity, which may be attributed to Bohemian trends and social media flower crown filters. You’ll often see male and female hula dancers wearing this style of lei. A masculine lei po‘o is generally made only with greenery, while a lei po‘o worn by a woman often incorporates beautiful flowers. Lei po‘o is often worn by brides on their wedding day and on other special occasions. A lei po‘o should never be mistaken simply as a flower crown or accessory, however. Like all other lei, each lei po‘o is created and worn with intent and meaning.

Lei Of The Island

Perhaps you received one of these treasured lei as a gift on a special occasion or will be greeted with one on your next visit to the islands. Though its beauty and scent will captivate you, remember that the meaning of the lei is of greater significance. You are wearing a living wearable piece of art capable of touching emotions. This truth is often reminded to the people of Hawai‘i every May 1st, which is official Lei Day. Lei Day festivities include hula dancing, Hawaiian music, lei making competitions and royal courts representing each island. In fact, each island is represented by a designated lei.

The pink lokelani (Damask rose) lei is Maui’s official lei. The rose is especially loved for its beautiful form and gratifying scent. Lokelani is the only appointed island flower not endemic to Hawai‘i.

The official lei of Hawai‘i Island is made with red lehua blossoms, which grow on the native ‘ōhi‘a lehua tree, the first daring tree that sprouts through a new lava field. Resembling a volcanic eruption due to its many vertical streaks of bright red, the lehua fittingly represents the Big Island.

The golden ‘ilima is the official flower of O‘ahu’s lei. ‘Ilima is a native Hawaiian plant, and its paper-thin flowers resemble mini hibiscuses. It takes hundreds of blossoms to form a single elegant strand.

Representing the island of Kaua‘i is the mokihana lei. The mokihana is a citrus tree and found only in Kaua‘i on Mount Wai‘ale‘ale. Its bright green berries are strung together to form a long-lasting, fragrant lei that resembles the scent of anise.

The kauna‘oa lei symbolizes Lāna‘i. The endemic kauna‘oa plant is a parasitic vine with yellow-orange stems, which grow like webs over the sands of Lāna‘i’s beautiful beaches. The thin vines are twisted into a unique lei, and were once worn by ancient Hawaiians when visiting the seashore.

The island of Moloka‘i recognizes the white kukui blossom as the official lei material. Unlike the popular everlasting kukui nut lei mentioned earlier, this lei is made using the small blossoms of the tree as well as the tree’s leaves.

The official lei of Kaho‘olawe is made using hinahina, a plant that once grew profusely out of the sand dunes of Kaho‘olawe’s beaches. The hinahina plant’s unusual silvery gray leaves and white fragrant flowers make hinahina a choice material for lei.

The official lei of Ni‘ihau is actually made using pūpū shells, which are commonly found on the rocky island’s pristine shores. The shells are pierced and then strung on cords to create the Forbidden Island’s official lei. This is the most expensive lei and can easily cost thousands of dollars and is deeply treasured.

LEI ETIQUETTE & TRADITIONS

The wide range of lei is quite significant! If you would like to bestow someone with a lei, there are a few traditions to keep in mind. A lei is customarily presented with a smile and kiss on the cheek, hug or handshake. According to tradition, you should never give a closed or tied lei to a pregnant woman, because a closed lei is believed to symbolize the umbilical cord tied around a baby’s neck. Also, avoid gifting an ill person a plumeria lei. Plumeria, with its varied colored blooms, pleasant fragrance and abundance makes it a popular choice, but it was once considered a “dead man’s lei” because plumeria trees flourished at cemeteries and were often presented at funerals. Though plumeria lei are the perfect lei to welcome and endear visitors or celebrate a friend’s birthday, they are believed to bring bad luck to a person with poor health. Remembering that certain flowers, materials and designs used in a lei can have significant meanings will save you from accidentally offending others. If in doubt, ask a knowledgeable local or do a little research on the web to help you make the right selection.

Since a lei is an expression of one person’s affection towards an individual, you should always accept a lei. It is considered very disrespectful and rude to refuse one, or even remove a lei in front of the giver. If, for any reason, you must remove a lei in the presence of the giver, do so discretely; and set the lei in a place of honor. For example, when musicians remove a lei to perform, they usually display their lei on their microphone stand.

After a lei has wilted, it should be disposed of in a respectful manner. Never throw a lei in the trash as it is seen as throwing the giver’s affection away. Hawaiians always returned their lei to the land or ocean. Legends say that if you toss your lei into the ocean and it returns to shore, you are destined to return to the islands (just remember to remove the string). In modern times, it is common for people to keep their dried lei, often displaying them in their homes.

Though a lei that is placed on you may only last a short time, the gift of having a lei placed on your shoulders or crown is a precious, lasting memory. So, the next time you’re given a lei, embrace the experience and significance in itself. Look past the aesthetics, and find meaning in each beautiful strung flower, woven petal or braid of leaves, and remember to honor the hands of the artist.

Make Lei

At Haku Maui, you’ll find lei that’s been handcrafted for a variety of occasions—weddings, graduations, baby showers, birthdays, anniversaries, et al. They even offer lei made of silk flowers and foliage to cherish long after its received. Regardless of style, there’s no wire, ribbon or floral tape used, often it’s dried banana leaf that they grow and gather themselves. Haku Maui uses native plants and supports local farmers, and even grows some of the specialty flowers and foliage themselves, too.

The shop’s experience is much more than simply picking up lei. Owner Britney Texeira and her team (which includes her mom and lifelong friend) pride themselves on getting to know their customers. They want to be sure that the flowers and foliage used and the style chosen, is right for you.

To try your hand at making these beautiful and meaningful garlands, Haku Maui hosts workshops every Wednesday and Saturday. Workshops are held in a quaint, private studio behind the boutique in Makawao, which also happens to be Texeira’s hometown.

Texeira and her team exude pure aloha and take pride in this tradition and their craft. They don’t see this as a job, but a calling, of sorts, to teach the next generation to love and appreciate lei as much as they do. Therefore, these special workshops are not only enjoyable but truly educational. When you walk back through the lush gardens and into the studio space, it feels like you’re being welcomed into the team’s home. There, you’ll learn the art of traditional lei making, the meaning of lei in Hawaiian culture—including protocols that they themselves adhere to—as well as intentions to set while you’re making your lei. You’ll leave having experienced true aloha spirit and of course your very own piece of wearable art.