CULINARY Q&A

Born and raised in the South, Chef Michael Patria’s passion for cooking developed at a young age when he learned about the love that goes into cooking in the kitchens of his grandparents. As a Southerner of Italian heritage, food played a large role in his family where gatherings always centered around food and sharing dishes. At the age of 14, he got his first job as a dishwasher but was suddenly pulled onto the kitchen line after a prep cook got injured and he was hooked—from the intense atmosphere of kitchens to the family-like camaraderie between chefs, he was enamored with cooking and the life of a chef. After a brief stint as a cowboy in Wyoming, he has dedicated his life to the art of cooking and today, serves as the Executive Chef of the Four Seasons at Wailea, working to refine and enhance dining experiences of his guests.

What are some of your fondest memories that deal with food, cooking or being in the kitchen? One involves my granddad who lived in Kentucky. He had a beautiful farm and I remember taking walks there with him as a child. Behind the house, they had an amazing garden and I remember he always wore these beat-up, dirty overalls and, while we would walk through the garden, he would grab tomatoes off the vine or pull up a radish from the ground. On his overalls, he had this dirt patch on the right side, just above the knee, where he would rub a tomato or radish to clean it off. Then, he would reach into his front pocket where he always kept a pocketknife and small salt and pepper shakers. I remember eating these fresh veggies with him right there in the garden. Another memory involves my grandmother, who was Italian. She lived in Michigan, and I remember at Christmas time there were always a lot of cookies being made which is common in Italian households. I remember spending hours in the kitchen with her making cookies and getting to lick the whisk or the spoon or eat whatever cookie batter was left in the mixing bowl.

Who were notable figures along your culinary education or early culinary path?

I would have to say it all started with two chefs in Atlanta who motivated me to take cooking and being in a kitchen to the next level. I was working for a company called the Buckhead Life Restaurant Group and met chefs Kevin Rathbun, who was their Corporate Chef, and Thomas Lee, who was the Executive Chef of the restaurant. Both chefs took me under their wing and motivated me to take my skills to the next level. After I moved to San Francisco, Chef Bradley Bennick and Chef JeanPierre Dubray also had a major impact on me. JeanPierre was a classically trained French chef who helped me refine my cooking. Chef Bradley Bennick was a creative force in the kitchen so working with both in San Francisco was a real game changer. I feel like they all played key roles in getting me where I am now.

What are some highlights that you have had along your culinary path?

Early on, when I started working with Chef Kevin and Chef Thomas, I set some goals for myself to become a sous chef before the age of 25 and an executive chef before the age of 30—both of those goals I met, and I am very proud of this. I’ve opened restaurants in LA, in particular one called Cara, which I was extremely proud of regarding what we were able to do there. Just getting to the place I am now, being the Executive Chef of the Four Seasons at Wailea, which is such a notable, iconic property and the pinnacle of luxury, just being where I am is probably one of the proudest moments in my career.

What are some things that make the Four Seasons at Wailea stand out from other places where you have worked at?

One of the first things that come to mind is our staff. It is truly an ‘ohana (family) here. That stood out to me when I visited the property to do my tasting during the application process. Everyone’s passion for raising the luxury bar also stands out. I think we are constantly innovating and thinking about how we can take people’s experiences, dining and activities to the next level. Our general passion for continually raising that luxury product is something that separates us from the competition.

What are some of your favorite local ingredients to work with?

One ingredient I really like right now is pohole. Living in San Francisco, I was exposed to the Pacific Northwest Fiddlehead Fern so when I got here and learned about the pohole which is a local fern, it was exciting for me to learn how local chefs prepare and cook it. It is a fun ingredient that many are not exposed to on the mainland or other places. Local fish is something that I have fallen in love with, onaga (long-tail red snapper) in particular. I’m a big fan of charcoal and fire cooking so I’ve taken to cooking the onaga as a whole fish roasted over charcoal. I add a bit of lemon juice, some Hawaiian sea salt and pepper. It is just an amazing ingredient that speaks for itself.

If you could plan an entire day at the Four Seasons at Wailea, what would your perfect day look like?

I would start my day early with paddleboarding or a swim in the ocean. I think beginning the day in the water is a great way to start the day. This would work up my appetite so I would head to DUO Steak and Seafood which has an amazing breakfast buffet where we are doing a lot of fun things. I love their omelets made-to-order and their pancake station. After a hefty meal, I would enjoy a stroll on the beach walk and take in the beautiful scenery. Then I would head to the pool where I would order a Classic Trader Vic Mai Tai and take a dip in the pool. Lunch would be at Ferraro’s where we have exciting menu renovations underway. In the early afternoon, I would spend time in the serenity pool area which has a calmer atmosphere and an amazing view before heading to my room for a quick nap and shower before heading down to the Lobby Lounge for pre-dinner drinks and pupus.

Deciding where to eat dinner would be a toss-up and probably the most difficult decision of my day! After deciding between DUO Steak and Seafood and Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante, I would head back to the Lobby Lounge for after-dinner drinks and unwind there while I listened to their live music.

As Chef Michael and his team work to refine menus and incorporate more offerings from local farmers, he continues to connect all aspects of food and beverage service at the Four Seasons at Wailea. For Chef Michael, working in a beautiful location takes the backseat to being able to deliver quality experiences to his guests with his incomparable team. “What got me into the culinary field was the camaraderie that we have in kitchens. Once you start working in a kitchen you almost have an automatic new family, and you have each other’s backs. I also love the excitement of talking with guests or seeing people in the dining room that are completely amazed by the meals in front of them.”

Four Seasons Resort Maui: 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Kīhei; fourseasons.com/maui; (808) 874-8000.