PLACE OF REFUGE

Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park

Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park emerges into view as a vibrant green oasis in a land of barren, sun-scorched lava. This pristine park just south of Kona invites guests to find sanctuary below mighty stonewalls, gently swaying palm trees, and humble thatched roof huts. Despite its lush appearance, it’s important for visitors to realize it was once much more than a reprieve from the elements.

The name of the park stamps its ancient purpose as pu‘uhonua means “place of refuge.” It is believed that for over 700 years, Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau served as both a favored residence of Hawaiian kings, and a sanctuary for the exiled and doomed. In ancient Hawai‘i, the kapu (sacred laws) system strictly governed every aspect of society. Infractions as simple as touching the property of ali‘i (royalty) led to certain death, as it was believed the gods would unleash natural disasters for unpunished offenses.

A pu‘uhonua offered sanctuary to anyone facing execution under the kapu system. During times of war, these compounds also provided a safe haven for families on the run, and offered defeated warriors a place to rehabilitate. Even those guilty of serious crimes could find shelter inside a pu‘uhonua, but first they would have to avoid capture and secure safe passage to their destination.

Though not the only place of refuge, PPu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau was considered the most significant given its remarkable architecture, and no simple place to enter. A palace complex inhabited by ali‘i forbid trespassers from the east, towering stonewalls blocked all other land entry, and only ali‘i could land their canoes at the bay’s small, protected cove. To reach safety, asylum seekers were forced to plunge into the uncertain waters of Hōnaunau Bay and swim their way to sanctuary. If a lawbreaker survived the swim and entered the pu‘uhonua, they were granted a ceremony absolving them of their crimes and allowed to return back to society.

According to ancient Hawaiians, the sacred site’s powers came from the bones of 23 deceased chiefs buried within the temple and mausoleum, Hale o Keawe. It was believed the bones of these chiefs contained mana, or spiritual power, that would protect the lives of the village’s inhabitants from the fury of the gods.

For many centuries, in addition to being a home for kings, a bustling village sat just outside the sanctuary’s walls. Abundant fish inhabited the bay while inland farmers grew taro, sweet potatoes, bananas, sugar cane and breadfruit. Nearby freshwater springs gave consistent drinking water and the bay offered a calm landing spot for canoes. Once the traditional seat of power for the chiefdom of Kona, ali‘i and their council lived in the Royal Grounds at the edge of the refuge. Hōnaunau was also known the ancestral home of the Kamehameha dynasty.

After the arrival of European settlers in the late 1700s, Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau slowly began to lose its esteem as a cultural and political epicenter of Hawai‘i. The shallow bay could not host the large trading vessels of the outsiders, and ali‘i chose to move to the more booming ports of Kailua and Honolulu. Much of the refuge began to fall into disrepair, and it was finally abandoned with the fall of the kapu system in 1819. For decades, the city crumbled under the harsh forces of sun, wind and sea. Although initial reconstructions began as early as 1880, it wasn’t until after the designation as a National Historic Park in 1961 that full-scale restoration effort brought new life to the once grand ruins of the Place of Refuge.

Today, Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau is considered one of the most sacred and culturally significant sites in the state and is well worth a visit. The masterfully maintained park grounds encompass a total of 182 acres and encourage visitors to get in touch with the intriguing and powerful history of the region. Stand in front of the nearly 1,000-ft long aptly named Great Wall and try to imagine how long it took to create this engineering marvel. Believed to have been first constructed around 1550, the wall measures nearly 12’ tall and 18’ wide and is composed entirely of meticulously stacked and unmodified chunks of lava rock.

The site’s famed Hale o Keawe is the most intact Hawaiian heiau (temple) still remaining, and haunting ki‘i (carved wooden statues) surround its walls. Visitors also have the chance to view Polynesian-style paddling canoes, wander among authentic thatched roofed structures and play traditional Hawaiian games. The south end of the park encompasses the remains of former Ki‘ilae Village, accessible by a scenic 2-mile round-trip coastal trail. Keep an eye out for the park’s other inhabitants, the gentle honu (sea turtle), flocks of colorful birds and plots of edible and medicinal plants.

As a bonus, the protected waters of Hōnaunau Bay offer some of the best snorkeling and diving conditions on the Island. Nicknamed “Two Step” for a moderately easy shoreline access near the boat launch, the waters here are teeming with vibrant coral plumes and schools of colorful reef fish. At the north end of the bay, the reef ends and a deep sandy bottom hosts acrobatic spinner dolphins more often than not. Stay out of the water if the seas are rough and keep your distance from the dolphins no matter how hard they beg you to come play.

Fortunately, accessing Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau no longer requires a swim. The nearly 420-acre National Historical Park can be found by heading roughly 20 miles south of Kona on Highway 11. Turn makai (toward the ocean) between milepost 103 and 104 onto Highway 160, before cruising the final 3.5-mile stretch. Turn at the Pu'uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park sign and make your way in.

Self-guided tours are made easy with a highly informative park map; be sure to stop by the visitor center to grab one. Park hours are from 8:15 a.m. to sunset every day, and entry fees are $20 for a car and $10 on foot. For up-to-date information on cultural demonstrations and guided talks, call the visitor center at (808) 328-2326, extension 1702. You may also find information online at www.nps.gov/puho/ index.htm. Hōnaunau is a great place to be immersed in Hawaiian and Polynesian history, so allow at least an hour or two for proper exploration of this sacred site. Please be respectful of the cultural significance of this extraordinary place and follow all rules and regulations. Bring plenty of water, wear sunscreen and a hat; and step into history.