HOT SPOT Moon and Turtle

story KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

Lauded as one of the hottest restaurants in the state and one of the “can’t miss” Asian restaurants in Hawai‘i, Moon and Turtle continues to amaze guests with their international menu infused with Pacific flare. This intimate restaurant exudes the vibes of a beloved neighborhood haunt, where guests enjoy the purposefully small menu that allows Chef Mark Pomaski to focus on executing each dish without sacrificing quality.

Born and raised in Hilo, Hawai‘i, Chef Pomaski’s journey to kitchens officially began in Eugene, Oregon at a Japanese restaurant called Shiki where he met Tetsuya Ozaki. Under Ozaki, a third-generation sushi chef from Osaka, Pomaski learned the fundamentals of sushi and basic knife skills that gave this Hawai‘i boy a solid culinary foundation. From Oregon, Pomaski worked in Seattle before returning to the islands—imbued with all the knowledge and training he gained in the kitchen and from his mentors. In 2007, he was hired as the head sushi chef for Roy Yamaguchi’s newest restaurant, Roy’s Waikīkī, and later became the corporate sushi chef for all of Roy’s Hawai‘i restaurants.

Pomaski now enjoys a full-circle moment by participating in the thirteenth annual Hawai‘i Food and Wine Festival which was co-founded by his former boss, Chef Roy Yamaguchi. This year, Pomaski joins the over 150 internationally renowned chefs participating in this three-weekend-long epicurean experience which showcases the diversity of Hawaiian agriculture and homegrown culinary talent. One festival event that Pomaski will be participating in is the Indigenous World Cuisines event which will be held on October 20, 2023 at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. This outdoor evening event will bring together ten esteemed chefs who will highlight their diverse cultural heritages via indigenous ingredients and traditional cooking preparations.

Pomaski will be representing his own restaurant, Moon and Turtle, which he and his wife took over in 2013. At that time, the menu featured Thai dishes; but with dedication, attention to detail, and a thoughtful eye, Pomaski reinvented the menu to better reflect the flavors found in the islands. He also worked to create connections with local farmers, ranchers and fishermen to incorporate more local ingredients and give the menu a better taste of place. Over the past ten years, the restaurant has evolved, blending aspects of fine dining with the ease of comfort food while gaining a loyal following.

The menu is small—offering a handful of tapas-style plates and about three larger plates each night—all meant to be shared family style. The reasoning for the highly curated menu is that it allows Chef Pomaski to fine-tune and master each dish, sending out culinary masterpieces with each order placed. Another quirk of the location is that the menu changes frequently allowing the chef to serve the freshest produce, fish and island-grown products creating a menu that reflects the variation of season.

While the menu does change regularly, there are crowd-favorite dishes that are must tries. One all-star dish is the Smokey Sashimi which starts with tender filets of local ‘ahi topped with kiawe-smoked shoyu (soy sauce), Hawaiian chili pepper water and extra virgin olive oil. Deceptively simple, this dish blends the smoky saltiness of the shoyu with the sweet briny flavors of the sea to capture an umami flavor within each bite. Another signature dish of Chef Pomaski’s repertoire is his Mushroom Risotto which begins with grains of Koshihikari rice, a short-grain varietal known for its natural sweetness and chewy consistency. The rice is slowly cooked with white wine, Hāmākua Ali‘i mushrooms and earthy shiitake mushrooms before being finished with nutty parmesan cheese and a drizzle of truffle oil.

An exquisite drink menu complements the menu options, much of which is chosen by Chef Pomaski’s wife and Moon and Turtle co-owner, Soni. Many of the red, white and sparkling wines were selected for their pairing versatility and ability to play well with the bold flavors of each dish. Aside from their divine wines, another lure for many customers is the handcrafted cocktails, many of which feature produce and hand-squeezed fruit juices made from products sourced from the islands. As with the food menu, the drink menu also changes frequently but there are a few crowd favorites to look for. One is their Li Hing Preserved Lemonade which starts with a serving of Pinnacle vodka, fresh lemon juice and house-made simple syrup. Their house-preserved lemon syrup and li hing (preserved plum) seed are added, resulting in a mouth-puckering sour drink balanced with a kiss of sweetness.

In 2022, Chef Pomaski earned the high honor of being named a semifinalist for the James Beard Award in the category of Best Chef in the Pacific Northwest and Pacific. Despite this esteemed nomination, the unassuming atmosphere, fivestar service and attention to detail continue to shine each night at Moon and Turtle. As Pomaski’s star continues to rise, his attention to detail and thoughtful dishes persevere, making Moon and Turtle a must-visit restaurant on the Big Island.

The Moon and Turtle is located at 51 Kalākaua Street in Hilo; (808) 961-0599; Open Tuesday to Saturday from 5:30 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.