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Happy Birthday to Taste magazine on your 15th birthday! Bravo! www.airfrance.co.za

BEST-EVER PARTY MENUS BY ABIGAIL DONNELLY, HANNAH LEWRY & PHILLIPPA CHEIFITZ

October 2018 R39.50 incl. VAT Other countries R34.35 excl. VAT taste.co.za @WWTaste “The new carrot cake” (page 29)

COLLECTOR’S EDITION

WOOLIES GIFT CARDS WORTH

000

Cookbook exclusive! Ottolenghi does simple food p. 104

Vanilla “box” cake with caramel frosting (page 29)

BIRTHDAY

A D V E R T I S I N G

P R O M O T I O N

SUPER SPEARS Ilona Schabort has been supplying Woolies with asparagus for 25 years from her farm in the Free State, where picking begins in the early morning to ensure fresh, bright green spears hit the shelves. Use them in salads, tarts, canapés and breakfasts. Adding greens to your poached eggs? Opt for baby asparagus; their thin, tender stems add just the right amount of crunch. Midweek dinner need brightening up? Grab a mini pack. Planning a party? Buy a bulk pack and make a showstopping centrepiece. Even better? Right now, you can buy two packs of asparagus spears, tips or bundles for R50. woolworths.co.za

Serving suggestions ASPARAGUS TART Preheat the oven to 200°C. Place 1 sheet frozen all-butter puf pastry on a baking tray. Using a sharp knife, score a border around the edge of the pastry and brush it with a little melted butter. Crumble 170 g sheep-and-goat’s milk feta into the centre. Top with 150 g asparagus spears, drizzle with olive oil and season. Bake for 15–20 minutes, or until the pastry is golden and crisp and the asparagus just tender.

Asparagus tips, R33.99 for 100 g.

ASPARAGUS SOUFFLÉ OMELETTE Separate 3 large free-range eggs. Place the egg yolks, 3 T cream, salt and pepper in a bowl and whisk to combine. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites until stif peaks form. Carefully fold the egg whites into the egg yolk mixture. Halve 50 g asparagus spears and fry in a little olive oil over medium heat. Spoon over the egg mixture, and cook for 3 minutes. Top with 120 g ricotta and fold over. Season with pepper, sprinkle with Parmesan and garnish with basil.

Asparagus spears, R33.99 for 170 g.

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION JACQUELINE BURGESS FOOD ASSISTANT ALEX LEVETT

45491

Dulux Luxurious Silk in Moon Grey Staircase Moon Grey Make Your Home A Masterpiece

OCTOB E R 2018

CONTENTS O

FEATURES

CAKES IN BLOOM

Celebrate spring (and our birthday) with every cake you can think of – from cupcakes with royal wedding frosting to an easy sponge starring Strawberry Pops (cake for breakfast, anyone?). 16 15 PARTY TRICKS

Save time and banish stress with readymade ingredients, assembly food and expert advice on how to master the stove-totable showstopper. 68 BY INVITATION ONLY

Plan a chilled, but still decadent, lunch party and treat your favourite people to special-occasion ingredients – prawns, roast duck, chocolate candles – in a totally informal spread. 80

PARTY SPIRIT

These are the only seven cocktail recipes you’ll ever need to host a great night out at home. (And yes, there is an old-school punch bowl in there.) 88 MANY HAPPY RETURNS

Make Phillippa Cheiitz’s ultimate sharing menu and transport your guests to Latin America. If the paella doesn’t do it, the ceviche-style summer squash will. 96 THE OTTOLENGHI EFFECT

Try our exclusive recipes from Yotam Ottolenghi's brand-new, must-have cookbook, Simple. 104 GREI ANATOMY

Chef Candice Philip’s artistry with herbaceous ingredients creates a feast for your eyes and palate at the Saxon hotel’s Grei restaurant. 112

COVER PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY FOOD ASSISTANTS JACQUELINE BURGESS AND KELETSO MOTAU

MELBOURNE: THE INSIDER’S GUIDE

Where to eat and drink in the capital of Victoria, according to a well-fed South African who’s getting to know her new home one dish at a time. 118

FIRST TASTE

33 The way we ate: 15 years of trends in TASTE 40 Your favourite TASTE covers 42 15 iconic Woolies products, from rotisserie chicken to Chuckles 46 The top 15 recipes at taste.co.za 51 Bubbling under: we catch up with former winners of the TASTE Eat Out bursary 54 What I know now: TASTE food editor Abigail Donnelly

REGULARS

8 Editor’s letter 10 The writer of our winning letter gets a bottle of Monks Mary Jane gin, plus a R500 Woolies gift card 12 Find recipes and competitions at taste.co.za 14 Subscribe to TASTE and you could win a Le Creuset hamper worth R1 250 38 Enter and stand a chance to win a food-and-wine experience at La Motte worth R20 000 128 Final tidbit: Sumien Brink’s signature dessert

COLUMNS

58 15 TOP BOTTLES Cape Wine Master Allan Mullins chooses 15 iconic wines, from a best-selling Chenin to an award-winning bubbly, you have to try this party season. 64 TASTES THAT BIND The garish and gorgeous velvet cupcakes that win the hearts of the little ones at Sam Woulidge’s son’s birthday parties.

page 68 page 80 page 96 page 29 page 8 page 104

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E DI TO R'S LE T T E R

FIFTEEN CANDLES tell me where we were going until the cab pulled up outside the restaurant. She told me to open my eyes and above the door were the immortal words “Heston Blumenthal”. My fate was sealed. So when I came back to Cape Town I knew that what I really wanted to do was to write about food. And meet Heston Blumenthal. And interview Jamie and Nigella. And maybe work with South Africa’s great food creatives.

advertising history. It was also the moment that I took the path that brought me here. I knew I had a lot to learn. So I bought every issue of TASTE. The ones I missed, my mother bought. I pored over them. I formed some opinions. I learnt the art of menu-making from Phillippa Cheiitz – who I also got to work with when I edited House & Leisure. I loved Abigail’s covers – an ingenious mushroom tarte tatin, a showstopping Christmas wreath of salmon and shaved greens, a towering milk stout-chocolate-butterscotch cake. I was a TASTE voyeur for many, many years: I watched as the team brought Woolworths food to life with the seasons, with new ingredients, with

“I WAS A TASTE VOYEUR FOR MANY YEARS: I WATCHED AS THE TEAM BROUGHT WOOLWORTHS FOOD TO LIFE WITH THE SEASONS AND TRENDS”

WIN A R3 000 BONUS!

To celebrate this momentous birthday, we’re giving away ive Woolworths gift cards worth R3 000 each to our most dedicated food nerds. Visit taste.co.za to see how to enter, then keep an eye on Facebook and Instagram throughout October for our clues. You could end up with the Christmas bonus to beat them all!

global trends – sweet chilli cream cheese dips replaced by Ottolenghi’s hummus; macarons moved over for cronuts. While I was watching, I was also making some of my own food dreams come true. I did get to meet Heston Blumenthal and also Anthony Bourdain (sob) and Ferran Adrià; I interviewed Nigella and ate at El Bulli and St John and Chez Panisse. And, in between, I threw crazy-elaborate dinner parties and cooked recipes from TASTE. There was a moment this month – possibly as I used a piece of chocolate cake to scoop a large blob of caramel right of the TASTE kitchen counter – that I felt a wave of gratitude. It may have taken 12 years and three other magazines, but when I’m in our kitchen watching South Africa’s greatest food creatives work their magic, I know I took the right path. So, here’s to the next 15 years of food – whatever it may look like – I know it will taste good.

Follow me on Instagram @KateWilsonZA

PORTRAIT JAN RAS

FIFTEEN YEARS AGO, I was in my 20s, had three magazine jobs behind me and had just come home to South Africa from London. I was less buoyant than when I left – the Big Smoke can do that to you. So can heartbreak and a horrible job, so I came home thinner, a little scarred and absolutely determined that my next job would make me happy. I was already a food nerd, having taught myself to cook irst from my mother’s cookbook collection (Phillippa Cheiitz, Ina Paarman, Reader’s Digest ) and then from the incredible abundance of cookbooks and chefs and newspaper columns I discovered in London (it wasn’t all bad.) As a farewell, my best friend – Polly – who still lives in London, took me out for a surprise lunch. We caught the train out of the city and she wouldn’t

So I pitched an idea for a food magazine to a former colleague, Irna van Zyl, editorial director and one of the founding partners of our publisher, New Media. I was hopelessly unqualiied and I knew it – I may even have winced as I showed her my cover mock-up – but I igured it was part of the journey. Irna was incredibly gracious. She also had a knowing look on her face, like she wished she could tell me something. A few weeks later, New Media announced the launch of TASTE, to be published on behalf of Woolworths, a client brave enough to put its faith in content a decade before “content marketing” was actually coined. A client brave enough to give its customers a magazine full of ideas and inspiration rather than a catalogue of products. It was a groundbreaking moment in South African publishing and

Introducing the time-saving, veggie-prepping Veggie Bullet. The worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first cyclonic spiraliser, shredder and slicer â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all in one. It will completely change the way you look at vegetables, and the time you spend preparing them.

THE TEAM SAYS: What’s your ultimate birthday cake? EDITORINCHIEF Kate Wilson kate.wilson@newmediapub.co.za FOOD EDITOR Abigail Donnelly GROUP MANAGING EDITOR Liesl Nicholson liesl.nicholson@newmediapub.co.za FEATURES EDITOR Michelle Coburn michelle.coburn@newmediapub.co.za SENIOR COPY EDITOR Lynda Ingham-Brown ASSOCIATE EDITOR Katharine Pope COMMERCIAL PROJECTS EDITOR Jeanne Calitz MULTIMEDIA FOOD EDITOR Hannah Lewry MULTIMEDIA FOOD STYLIST Jacqueline Burgess ONLINE EDITOR Amy Ebedes HEAD OF CREATIVE Mark Serra ART DIRECTOR Alistair Fester JUNIOR DESIGNER Rugshaana Abrahams WINE CONSULTANT Allan Mullins CONSULTING DIETICIAN Mariza van Zyl

“I really love Abi’s pistachio-and-yoghurt bundt cake. The pistachios give it a lovely green tinge – like ‘green velvet’. I make it as a doublelayer cake, and ice it with rose-water and cream-cheese icing.” – Jeanne Calitz

“My favourite is a good old-fashioned, homebaked chocolate cake, with jam in the middle and chocolate butter icing. I ﬁrst baked one at the tender age of eight. My mom taught me everything I know about baking.” – Yvettte Samaai

“My chocolate mayonnaise cake. The secret ingredient is divisive, but it’s never failed me – not once.” – Liesl Nicholson

“They’re called ‘Lynde Dicks’ brownies’, from the recipe ﬂip-ﬁle that my mom made me when I left school. I’ve never bothered with any other brownie recipe!” – Amy Ebedes

SUBSCRIPTIONS & DISTRIBUTION Subscriptions hotline: 087 405 2005 Contact centre team leader: +27 21 530 3179 PUBLISHING TEAM Group Account Director: Kelly Cloete Account Manager: Cecilia du Plessis Production Manager: Shirley Quinlan ABC Manager: Roxanne Holman 021 417 1218 EXECUTIVE TEAM Managing Director: Aileen Lamb Commercial Director: Maria Tiganis Content Director: Andrew Nunneley Chief Financial Oﬃcer: Mark Oaten Chief Executive Oﬃcer: Bridget McCarney Executive Director: John Psillos Non-Executive Director: Irna van Zyl Repro by: New Media Publishing Printed by: Novus Print Solutions

“My mom made the best cakes for us kids. My favourite was a replica of our park with green coconut grass. Hannah’s citrus polenta cake is a close second!” – Katharine Pope

WOOLWORTHS EDITORIAL BOARD Head of Brand Communications: Elizka Ferreira Editorial Lead: Raphaella Frame-Tolmie Brand Manager Foods: Hieba Solomon ADVERTISING & MARKETING Head of Advertising and Sales: Jeanine Boshoﬀ +27 21 417 1104 jeanine.boshoﬀ@newmediapub.co.za Key Account Manager: Yvette Samaai +27 21 417 1156 yvette.samaai@newmediapub.co.za Key Account Manager: Tharien Nel +27 21 417 5168 tharien.nel@newmediapub.co.za Advertising Co-ordinator: Julian Petersen +27 021 417 1220

“My friends call me the pavlova queen, but for the kids’ school cake sales, I make gooey brownies topped with Woolworths vanilla bean icing. Every year, the teachers ask me for the recipe.” – Abigail Donnelly

FEEDBACK Email taste@newmediapub.co.za, tweet @WWTaste, or visit facebook.com/wwTASTE.

Published on behalf of Woolworths by New Media Publishing Pty Ltd, New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town, 8001. PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town, 8051. Telephone: +27 (021) 417-1111 info@newmediapub.co.za newmediapub.co.za

28 913 April–June 2018

THE TASTE KITCHEN IS PROUDLY EQUIPPED BY

WINNING LETTER Dear TASTE, I found myself grinning fondly through each page of the September issue. My dad passed away in 2016 (the spearhead of my love for all things food) and a braai has never felt the same again. I laughed along with Sam Woulidge and her irresistible condensed milk potato salad (clearly it wasn’t only me lifting the edge of the clingwrap to sneak a bite). I remembered my dad’s Friday night braai ritual of mieliepap with tamatiesous, vinegary ive-bean salad and boerewors. In the morning, we would wake up to creamy, sugary leftover mieliepap and strong moerkoﬃe. Thank you for reminding me of my dad, and encouraging me to whip up his beloved potato salad, throw some wors on the coals and savour the leftover mieliepap (maybe this time with a dollop of maple butter sauce!) – Shirley Erasmus THE WRITER OF OUR WINNING LETTER WINS A BOTTLE OF MONKS MARY JANE GIN, FOUR GLASSES AND GARNISH, VALUED AT R550,

plus a R500 Woolies gift voucher.

commercial interior architecture

Monks Mary Jane gin is South Africa’s irst hemp-infused gin. Made in the Breede Valley, it's double-distilled in small batches and features nine botanicals, blended with mountain water.

* Woolworths products featured are subject to availability and may not be available at all stores. All prices include VAT and were correct at the time of going to press. Ofers available while stocks last. Not all products and ingredients featured are available from Woolworths. While all precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of information, neither the publisher and editor, nor New Media Publishing, can be held liable for any inaccuracies, injuries or damages that may arise.

taste.co.za What's happening online?

@WWTaste

ALL STACKED UP We asked, you answered: these are just a few of the images readers sent us of their TASTE collections. We’re honoured – and proud – to have been part of your kitchens for 15 years

“My TASTE stack’s better than yours! These magazines are illed with inspiration I found incredibly useful as a young chef.” @katy703

“I love my TASTE mags! I have them back to 2012. I’d never throw them away and I often refer back to them for inspiration!” @ashleighnorris2012

“Just showing off my #wwtastestack #collectingsince2012 #wineanddine” @danielle_p89

“I love my stack!! We’ve come a looonnng way since issue 24.” @estramandy

“My stack of fabulousness. The oldest is 2004. Lots with my own notes on the spines, LsVE @WWTaste inspiration.” @givemecakeforbreakfast

“A new issue of TASTE magazine is always a monthly treat.” @sindimba

JOIN THE CONVERSATION! “My stack of go-to inspiration!” @sandrabakenmake

“Love my TASTE magazines!” @allsortsofhappy

ASK QUESTIONS AND SHARE YOUR ADVICE AT TASTE.CO.ZA/COMMUNITY-QUESTIONS.

SUBSCRI BE R’S O FFE R

SUBSCRIBE & WIN Look forward to a sorbet summer! Subscribe to TASTE for just R30 an issue and you could win one of four hampers containing new plates and tea mugs from Le Creuset’s Sorbet collection, worth R1 380

Le Creuset’s best-selling Sorbet collection has expanded! Now on ofer: more mouthwatering, retroinspired stoneware sets, perfect for summer entertaining. New pieces include lower plates, tea mugs, side plates and bowls – all in beautiful pastel tones such as coastal blue, cool mint, chifon pink and mimosa. Packaged in candy-striped gift boxes, they also make whimsical Christmas gifts. Find the Sorbet collection at a Le Creuset boutique store or online at lecreuset.co.za.

WIN!

Each hamper contains a Sorbet collection set of four plates and two tea mugs.

AN EASY, NEW WAY TO GET YOUR ISSUE

Three easy ways to subscribe

Want to get the subscribers’ discount, but don’t want to wait for the postman? TASTE subscribers can now choose to collect their magazine at a Woolworths store near them. To sign up, email subs@magsathome.co.za or call 087 405 2005 to click and collect your issue. Find out more at taste.co.za/click-collect.

1. Call 087 405 2005 2. SMS "Subs Tast" to 40573 (R1 per SMS) 3. EMAIL subs@magsathome.co.za. For digital subscriptions, visit mysubs.co.za, zinio.com or magzter.com.

*Offer limited to SA; ends 28 October 2018. Please allow time for processing and delivery. Please call 021 045 1809 for international subscription rates.

A playground of fun this Summer

oneandonlycapetown.com +27 21 431 5800 | reservations@oneandonlycapetown.com

CE LE BRAT I O N CA K E S

CANELÃ&#x2030;S R6 PER SERVING

PHOTOGRAPHS MYBURGH DU PLESSIS RECIPES AND PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY FOOD ASSISTANTS KAREN VAN WYNGAARDEN AND KELETSO MOTAU

CE LE BRAT I O N CA K E S

, l-

COCONUT BIRTHDAY CAKE R16 PER SERVING

CE LE BRAT I O N CA K E S

ROYAL TEA

The frosting for these vanilla cupcakes was inspired by the spring ﬂavours of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s wedding cake by Violet Bakery in London (we used lemon and rose-water rather than elderﬂower). Delicious with a pot of Earl Grey.

CUPCAKES WITH WHIPPED BUTTERCREAM R9 PER SERVING

CEREAL MILK CAKE (STRAWBERRY POPS CAKE) R13 PER SERVING

CE LE BRAT I O N CA K E S

MAKE A DOUGHNUT CONE

LIME-AND-PISTACHIO DOUGHNUT CAKES R21 PER SERVING

You could serve these doughnuts on a platter but we say your dessert table needs them as a centrepiece. Simply spread Wooliesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; readymade meringue over a polystyrene cone, stick on the doughnuts, and secure each one with a wooden skewer, then blowtorch.

CE LE BRAT I O N CA K E S

VANILLA CAKE R24 PER SERVING

CE LE BRAT I O N CA K E S

To frost or to ice? You’re going to lick the bowl, so what’s inside had better be good… BUTTER CREAM FROSTING

It’s so easy to make: cream butter in the bowl of an electric mixer before adding sifted icing sugar and a touch of vanilla. Perfect for spreading over cupcakes and cakes.

COFFEE-AND-CHOCOLATE MOUSSE MERINGUE CAKE

CREAM-CHEESE FROSTING

This is the delicious reason why we love carrot and red velvet cakes. The thick, creamy, tangy frosting is made by creaming cream cheese in the bowl of an electric mixer, then adding sifted icing sugar and vanilla before spreading it onto your cake of choice. ICING Usually made with icing sugar,

milk and vanilla or a lavouring of your

choice, it’s generally thinner than frosting but thicker than glaze. Icings (including ganache) set quickly and harden as they dry, while glazes don’t because they contain less sugar. Drizzle over cakes and other confections. GLAZE This mixture of icing sugar and milk, lemon juice, rose-water or water can be made to the consistency you prefer and drizzled over cakes and Chelsea buns.

CE LE BRAT I O N CA K E S

“MY CAKES ARE NEVER PERFECT, THEY’RE SOMETIMES A LITTLE WONKY. THAT’S WHY FROSTING IS MY BEST FRIEND!” – ABIGAIL DONNELLY

CE LE BRAT I O N CA K E S

CANELÉS

coconut lakes, to decorate

Makes 12 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 15 minutes, plus 2 days’ chilling time Baking: 1 hour

For the icing: cream ½ cup rose-water 1 T unsalted butter 190 g icing sugar 600 g lemon juice 1 t

milk 2 cups butter 50 g vanilla paste 1 t lour 100 g icing sugar 250 g salt 1 t free-range eggs 2 free-range egg yolks 2 rum (or rose-water) 4 T

1 Preheat the oven to 160°C and grease and

1 Place the milk, butter and vanilla paste in

a saucepan and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and cool slightly. 2 Sift the lour, icing sugar and salt into a large bowl. 3 Place the eggs and egg yolks in a bowl and beat lightly. 4 Pour the milk mixture and the eggs into the dry ingredients and whisk until it forms a smooth batter. 5 Strain the batter into a clean bowl. 6 Stir through the rum or rose-water, cover the bowl with clingilm and refrigerate for 2 days or longer to rest. 7 Preheat the oven to 240°C. Place a greased silicone canelé pan on a baking tray and heat in the oven for 5 minutes. 8 Remove the batter from the fridge and mix gently. Pour the batter into the moulds until it reaches 1 cm from the top. 9 Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 190°C. Bake for a further 45 minutes, or until golden. 10 Remove from the moulds immediately and cool on a wire rack. WINE: Fairview Straw Wine 2016

COCONUT BIRTHDAY CAKE Serves 8 to 10 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 20 minutes Baking: 1 hour 15 minutes butter 175 g, softened sugar 300 g free-range eggs 3, beaten lour 245 g baking powder 1 t ine salt ½ t coconut milk ¾ cup desiccated coconut 5 T edible lowers, to decorate

line 1 x 25 cm and 1 x 11 cm springform cake tins. 2 Cream the butter and sugar until pale in colour. 3 Slowly add the beaten eggs while beating at a low speed. Beat until well combined. 4 Sift the lour, baking powder and salt together. 5 Add half the coconut milk and half the lour mixture to the egg mixture, mixing at a low speed. 6 Once combined, add the remaining coconut milk, lour and the desiccated coconut. 7 Pour the mixture into the cake tins and bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until a skewer comes out clean. 8 Remove the cakes from the oven and cool on a wire rack. 9 To make the icing, mix the cream and rose-water and set aside. Beat the butter and 195 g icing sugar until smooth. Gradually add the cream and mix, scraping the bottom of the bowl occasionally. Add the remaining sugar, a spoonful at a time, while beating. Add the lemon juice. 10 Once the cakes have cooled completely, spread or pipe the icing onto the cakes and sandwich together. Decorate the cakes as desired; we used carnation petals and coconut lakes. Cook’s note: We made more than two layers to create a tower. Make as many as you need and decorate as you like.

Top of the tier Display your masterpiece on one of these cake stands available at Woolies

This two-tier stand includes two marble plates and a copper rod and stand. Use it to create a tower of desserts or appetisers. Studio W two-tier marble and copper cake stand, R599

A beautiful statement piece handpain nted in India, so no two platters are alike. e Ethos hand hand-painted painted cake stand, stand R350 R35

Crafted in solid oak, the Theo C ll ti ffeatures t d il collection a modern proile with soft, curved edges. Pair this stand with other pieces from the range. Countryy Road Theo timber cake stand, R498.99

WINE: Villiera Jasmine White 2018

CUPCAKES WITH WHIPPED BUTTER CREAM Makes 12 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 25 minutes Baking: 15 minutes butter 115 g, softened caster sugar 165 g free-range eggs 2 lour 210 g baking powder 1 t salt ½ t milk ½ cup vanilla paste 1 t 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C and line

This handmade cloche is perfeect vering cheeses and small ccakes. for covering Handmade glass cloche, R479

a 12-hole muin pan with cupcake cases. 2 Cream the butter and sugar until light and lufy. Add the eggs one at a time until the mixture is well combined. 3 Sift the lour, baking powder and salt and stir into the egg mixture. 4 Slowly add the milk and vanilla while stirring until a thick batter forms. 5 Spoon the batter into the cupcakes cases and bake for 12–15 minutes until golden in colour. 6 Remove the cupcakes from the oven and cool completely before icing. 7 Make the icing as you would for

CE LE BRAT I O N CA K E S

the coconut birthday cake (see page 25). Spread or pipe the icing onto the cupcakes. WINE: Graham Beck Méthode Cap Classique Brut NV

CEREAL MILK CAKE (STRAWBERRY POPS CAKE) Serves 10 to 12 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 30 minutes, plus 1 hour’s standing time Baking: 35 minutes lour 120 g baking powder 2 t bicarbonate of soda 1 t ine salt ¼ t free-range eggs 4, separated sugar 200 g full-cream milk ¼ cup For the cereal milk: Strawberry Pops 1 cup Ideal Milk 1 cup

For the whipped cream frosting: cream cheese 100 g icing sugar 60 g cream 1 cup raspberries 80 g

make sure that everything is combined. 9 When all the cream has been added, increase the speed to high and beat until stif peaks form. 10 Place the raspberries in a bowl and crush using a fork. Strain through a sieve to remove most of the liquid and fold the raspberries into the cream. Ice the cake as desired. Cook’s note: Make as many cakes as you like to create a tower.

2 x 15 cm cake tins. Sift the lour, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and salt. Set aside. 2 Beat the egg yolks and sugar using an electric mixer until light and creamy. Add the milk and mix until well incorporated. 3 Whisk in the lour mixture until well combined. 4 Beat the egg whites until soft peaks form, then fold them into the batter in 3 stages. 5 Pour the batter into the prepared tin and bake for 35 minutes, or until the top of the cake is golden. Allow to cool in the tin to room temperature. 6 To make the cereal milk, combine the cereal and Ideal Milk and allow to stand for 30 minutes. Strain the mixture and discard the cereal. 7 Poke holes into the cooled cakes with a skewer and pour the milk mixture over the cake. Allow the cake to stand for 30 minutes until all the liquid has been absorbed. 8 To make the icing, beat the cream cheese and sugar at a medium speed using an electric beater until smooth. Reduce the speed and slowly pour the cream down the side of the bowl. Scrape the bottom of the bowl occasionally to

package instructions. Divide the batter between 2 x 20 cm cake tins and bake according to package instructions. 2 Make the icing according to package instructions, then use to sandwich the cakes together and decorate the sides and top. WINE: Steenberg Chardonnay Méthode Cap Classique NV

WINE: Woolworths Weltevrede Vanilla Chardonnay 2017

COFFEE-AND-CHOCOLATE MOUSSE MERINGUE CAKE

LIME-AND-PISTACHIO DOUGHNUT CAKES

Serves 8 EASY Preparation: 50 minutes, plus 2 hours’ cooling time Baking: 1 hour

Makes 12 A LITTLE EFFORT GREAT VALUE Preparation: 30 minutes Baking: 15 minutes unsalted butter 150 g caster sugar 165 g lime zest 1 T vanilla extract 1 t free-range eggs 4 almond lour 180 g pistachio lour 130 g icing sugar 2 T, for dusting ground pistachios, for dusting 1 Preheat the oven to 160°C. 2 Cream the

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C and line

1 Prepare the cupcake mix according to

butter, sugar, lime zest and vanilla until light and lufy. 3 Scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the eggs one at a time while beating until well combined. 4 Fold in the almond and pistachio lour. 5 Spoon the mixture into a lightly greased silicone or metal doughnut pan and bake for 15 minutes. 6 Allow to cool on a wire rack. 7 Dust the doughnuts with icing sugar and ground pistachios before serving. WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE WINE: Paul Cluver Close Encounter Riesling 2017

VANILLA CAKE Serves 8 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 25 minutes Baking: 35–45 minutes Woolworths Easy to Bake vanilla cupcake mix 2 x 680 g boxes Woolworths vanilla bean icing 2 x 260 g sachets

For the meringue: cornlour 1 T almond lour 100 g free-range egg whites 4 icing sugar 195 g, sifted boiling water ½ t For the cofee-and-chocolate mousse: cream 2 cups instant cofee granules 2 T milk chocolate 400 g dark chocolate 400 g free-range egg yolks 4 free-range egg whites 2 1 To make the meringue, preheat the oven to 120°C. 2 Mix the cornlour and almond lour and set aside. 3 Beat the egg whites

using an electric beater until stif peaks form. 4 Gradually add the icing sugar, scraping the sides of the bowl to combine all the ingredients. 5 Add the lour mixture and water and whisk until combined. 6 Draw 2 x 21 cm circles on 2 pieces of nonstick baking paper and place the paper on baking trays. Divide the mixture between the circles and spread using a palette knife. 7 Bake the meringue for 1 hour until just crisp, turn of the oven and allow to cool inside the oven for 2 hours. 8 To make the mousse, place ½ cup cream and the cofee in a metal bowl and stir over a double-boiler until all the granules have dissolved. Add the milk and dark chocolate in batches and stir until the chocolate is melted and combined. Remove from the heat and cool slightly. 9 Add the egg yolks one at a time, stirring until well combined and smooth. Beat the egg whites until stif peaks form and fold into the chocolate

CE LE BRAT I O N CA K E S

Divide and conquer The triangle or the rectangle? How do you make sure everyone gets their slice? Slicing a cake into equal slices doesn’t have to be a mission. If you’re from the triangle school of slicing, ﬁrst use a knife to lightly mark out evenly spaced slices before you start cutting them using a thin-bladed knife. But an easier way is to cut the cake into horizontal slabs about 2.5 cm thick (you can support each slab with a cutting board as you slice it) then cut each slab into evenly spaced rectangles to serve.

PEA CAKE WITH LIME ICING R25 PER SERVING

“THIS IS THE NEW CARROT CAKE! IT’S UNUSUAL, BUT I REALLY LOVE THE GREEN HUE OF THE PEA-AND-LIME CAKE THAT’S REVEALED WHEN I CUT THE FIRST SLICE. THE RASPBERRY POWDER ADDS A LOVELY POP OF COLOUR” – ABIGAIL DONNELLY

HOT-MILK SPONGE CAKE WITH LEMON CREAM-CHEESE ICING R35 PER SERVING

CE LE BRAT I O N CA K E S

mixture. Beat the remaining cream and fold into the chocolate mixture. Chill for 2 hours, or until set. 10 To assemble, line 1 x 21 cm springform baking tin with baking paper. Placing a meringue disc on the bottom of the tin, then spread some mousse on top of the meringue. Top with the remaining meringue disc. Freeze until irm. 11 To serve, remove the rim of the cake tin and the baking paper, then place the cake on a serving plate. Cook’s note: Triple the ingredients to make a whopper of a cake like the one we photographed. Freeze in batches, wrap in clingilm and store in the freezer until ready to assemble your tower. WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE WINE: Monis Medium Cream Sherry NV

PEA CAKE WITH LIME ICING Serves 8 to 10 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 30 minutes Baking: 1 hour 10 minutes frozen peas 4 cups unsalted butter 400 g, softened sugar 300 g

free-range eggs 6 vanilla paste 4 t lemon 1, zested and juiced lour 485 g baking powder 2 t ine salt 1 t dehydrated raspberry powder, for dusting For the frosting: icing sugar 225 g lime juice 4 t 1 Preheat the oven to 160°C and grease 1 x 24 x 11 cm bundt cake tin. 2 Boil the

peas until thawed, strain and refresh under cold water. Purée until completely smooth, then set aside. 3 Cream the butter and sugar in a mixer until light and lufy. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, until well combined. 4 Beat in the pea purée with the vanilla, lemon zest and juice. 5 Sift the lour, baking powder and salt together and stir into the pea mixture until combined. 6 Spoon the mixture into the prepared tin and bake for 1 hour and 10 minutes. Cool the cake in the tin. 7 To make the frosting, sift the icing sugar and stir in the lime juice until the icing is smooth. The amount of lime juice you add will determine how thick your icing will be. Pour the icing over the

7 steps to baking perfection

top of the cake to create a drip efect on the sides. Dust with dehydrated raspberry powder before serving. Cook’s note: Find dehydrated raspberry powder at speciality food stores. WINE: Woolworths Cape Point Sauvignon Blanc 2018

HOT-MILK SPONGE CAKE WITH LEMON CREAMCHEESE ICING Serves 8 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 30 minutes Baking: 30 minutes free-range eggs 12 caster sugar 850 g cake lour 640 g baking powder 3 T ine salt 1 t lemon zest 3 T lime zest 3 T milk 3 cups butter 375 g vanilla paste 1 T For the icing: unsalted butter 125 g, softened Woolworths plain medium-fat cream cheese 225 g icing sugar 300 g, sifted lemon 1, zested and juiced

The key to a beautifully moist cake with the perfect crumb is to follow these expert tips Don’t use cold eggs, milk or butter Get them to room temperature before you start baking. Pop eggs into a bowl of tepid (not hot) water for 15 minutes to speed things up. Make sure your baking powder, yeast and lour are fresh To check that baking powder is fresh, pour a little boiling water over a spoonful – if it bubbles, you’re good to go. Measure the lour the right way Don’t scoop it out of the bag with the measuring cup as it’ll become compacted, giving you more than you need. Rather spoon the lour into a measuring cup and level it out using a knife. Grease the pans Forget that crumpled piece of baking paper covered in butter (so messy). Rather use non-stick cooking spray or brush a pastry brush over soft butter, then brush

it onto the pan or the baking paper lining the pan. Give the pans enough oven space Place them in the centre of the oven, away from the top, bottom and sides, and any other pans. If your oven isn’t wide enough to put pans side by side, put them on diferent racks and slightly ofset them to allow air to circulate. Ensure even baking Do this by rotating pans, but only about two-thirds of the way through the baking time to prevent the cakes from collapsing. Cool them upside down If you’re layering your cakes, turn them out of the pans onto wire racks, which can help level out domed tops. If they still aren’t lat enough to stack, use a serrated knife to slice the top of each layer. A great way to ensure they bake with a lat top is to make a slight indentation in the centre of the batter using a spoon.

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C and grease

the cake tins. We used numbers but you can use 3 x 30 cm round cake tins instead. 2 Cream the eggs and sugar until light and lufy. 3 Sift the lour, baking powder and salt together. Fold the lour mixture and lemon and lime zest into the egg mixture. 4 Heat the milk, butter and vanilla paste until the butter has just melted. 5 Stir the milk mixture into the batter until smooth. 6 Pour the batter into the tins and bake for 25–30 minutes. Allow the cakes cool on a wire rack before icing. 7 To make the icing, beat the butter and cream cheese until smooth in an electric mixer. Gradually add the icing sugar until well incorporated. Stir in the lemon juice and zest. Spread or pipe the icing onto the cooled cakes as desired. Cook's note: We used Russian piping nozzles to create the roses on this cake. Find them at baking stores. WINE: Woolworths Rooiberg Spumante Doux Sparkling Wine NV

A D V E R T I S I N G

P R O M O T I O N

JAM SESSION

Serving suggestion SCONES WITH FRESH CREAM AND JAM Preheat the oven to 200°C. Sift together 560 g cake lour, 2 T baking powder and 1 t salt. Rub in 250 g softened butter using your ingertips (do not let the butter become warm or you will end up with hard, lat scones), until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Beat together 3 free-range eggs and ¾ cup plus 1 T buttermilk. Add to the lour mixture. Using a butter knife, gently cut in the liquid to form a soft dough. Place the dough on a lightly loured surface and gently pat to a thickness of 2 cm. Cut out rounds using a cookie cutter. Place the scones on a greased baking tray and bake for 10–15 minutes, or until pufed up and golden. Serve split open while still warm with butter, cream and lashings of your favourite Woolworths jam.

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION JACQUELINE BURGESS FOOD ASSISTANT KATE FERREIRA

Eating seasonally means flavourful, more tasty fruit and veg, but what happens when your favourite fruit isn’t available? Our grandmothers came up with the perfect solution: making jam using seasonal fruit at its best, so you can have punchy jams all year round. Woolworths’ jams are locally produced and come in a range of delicious flavours. Choose from classics like smooth apricot jam, chunky strawberry, blueberry, or plum-and-strawberry. Available at selected stores. woolworths.co.za

A D V E R T I S I N G

P R O M O T I O N

EGG TO DIFFER l

y y

l w

Serving suggestion PHYLLO EGG CUPS Preheat the oven to 200°C. Cut phyllo pastry into squares and line a muin tin with 3 layers, brushing melted butter between each layer. Crack a jumbo egg into each pastry cup and season. Bake for 12–15 minutes, or until the egg is cooked to your liking.

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION JACQUELINE BURGESS FOOD ASSISTANT ALEX LEVETT

15 YEARS OF FOOD

PHOTOGRAPH MYBURGH DU PLESSIS PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY FOOD ASSISTANTS JACQUELINE BURGESS AND SAXON KINNEAR

EDITED BY KATHARINE POPE

CUT THE CAKE 15 years ago, in the summer of 2003, we published our very irst issue of TASTE. We – and South African food – have come a long way since then.

T RE N DS

The way we ate The year was 2003. Finding Nemo debuted, Arnold Schwarzenegger became a politician, Freshlyground released Jika Jika, we wore camo pants and Ugg boots, and TASTE's first issue was published

Sweet chilli Philly The dip at every dinner party: a whole block of Philadelphia cream cheese, slathered in Wellington’s sweet chilli sauce. FOOD TRENDS Tramezzinis, tagines, asparagus, red cappuccinos.

34 2003

2004

2005

2006

TASTE’s ﬁrst issue is published With editor-in-chief Sumien Brink at the helm, the goal is to produce a new kind of food magazine. Food editor Phillippa Cheiitz promises “impressively easy dinners with friends and great fuss-free meals for the family”. For our irst issue, we serve some pretty avant-garde dishes: strawberry soup, pasta with vanilla bean and crème fraîche, and smoked salmon sushi rolls. Abigail Donnelly shares her recipes for avocados (to be honest, her avo-andpancetta toast still sounds pretty great) and Philippa teaches us how to make nachos, guacamole, and salsa. Woolworths wine expert Allan Mullins appears in his debut wine feature, pairing Neil Ellis Chardonnay with salmon, Brut rosé with oysters and suggesting Zesty White for braais. Also in the irst issue: an advert for the Nokia 3310. FOOD TRENDS Fillet with chocolate-chilli sauce, gourmet cupcakes, the Atkins diet, foams and gels, chocolate fountains, energy drinks, glutensensitivity begins to get press, elaborate cocktails, Mexican food.

Reuben Riffel The celebrity chef opens his eponymous irst restaurant in Franschhoek. Its best-selling dishes? Salmon ish cakes, squid-and-chorizo risotto, and duck pie. FOOD TRENDS Carpaccio, rocket, balsamic reduction. TASTE is voted best SA magazine. SASSI is founded.

Baked Camembert Invariably served with cranberry sauce. Also see baked Brie and deep-fried Camembert. Basically, we’re really into cooking cheese. FOOD TRENDS Peppadews on everything, single-dish restaurants. Abigail Donnelly becomes TASTE food editor

T RE N DS

Gourmet burgers Roast veggies After steaming our veggies religiously for a few years, we decide that whacking them in the oven is much easier. FOOD TRENDS Sous vide, verjuice, chocolate vodka, couscous. Michael Pollan’s The Omnivore’s Dilemma is published.

Thanks to the recession, the gourmet burger emerges as an afordable way to eat out. Hudson’s opens its irst branch. FOOD TRENDS Locally roasted cofee, meat-free Mondays. We fall in love with ClemenGolds (technically they’ve been around since the nineties), but they’re now becoming a lunchbox staple.

Macarons The brightly coloured, almond-based cookies replace cupcakes as the sweet treat du jour. Flavours range from lavender and rose, to Earl Grey and red velvet. FOOD TRENDS Dim sum, pomegranate rubies, guinea fowl, Jerusalem artichokes.

35 2007

2008

Chilli poppers Tex-Mex restaurants start appearing around SA. Nachos, burritos, enchiladas – we’re converts! FOOD TRENDS Sweet potato fries, wraps, smoked chicken.

2009

2010

Pork belly Every bistro worth its salt is serving it – generally with a sweet-and-sticky sauce. FOOD TRENDS Nordic cuisine, Pinterest, shakshuka eggs, taste.co.za launches. Ottolenghi’s Plenty is published. (See page 104 for an extract from his new book.)

2011

2012

Fresh mozzarella The availability of ior di latte, burrata and bufalo mozzarella means Caprese salads are all the rage at restaurants. We’re just relieved that the Greek salad is not the only option any more… FOOD TRENDS Chorizo, cake pops, food trucks, quinoa.

T RE N DS

Cronuts Baby marrow spaghetti With the publication of Tim Noakes’s The Real Meal Revolution, South Africans become obsessed with baby marrows. Also suddenly popular: caulilower, pumpkin and coconut oil. FOOD TRENDS Matcha, pulled-pork everything, The Freakshake. Kate Wilson becomes editor of TASTE.

Avo toast An Australian millionaire’s complaints about millennials’ breakfast of choice only serves to cement the popularity of avo toast. Avo roses and avo restaurants also sweep the globe. FOOD TRENDS Kombucha, pickling, gourmet chicken, doughnuts, charcoal, edamame.

36 2013

2014

Sriracha sauce Liam Tomlin introduces South Africans to the Thai sauce through Chefs Warehouse, which opened as a restaurant on Bree Street in 2014. Soon, it was in Woolworths stores and fridges around the country. FOOD TRENDS Craft beer, coconut oil, exotic tomatoes, naked cakes.

2015

2016

Poké bowls The Hawaiian diaspora converges with the fast-casual restaurant trend to bring the world this dish. Traditionally made with raw ish, a soya-based marinade and rice or leafy greens, poké caught on in SA in 2016. FOOD TRENDS Unicorn cakes, honey, agave and maple syrup, turmeric, chia seeds, Thai ice-cream rolls.

2017

2018

Plant-based eating Environmental concerns are driving more people to reduce their meat consumption. Vegan menus sprout at restaurants around the country, and our grocery cupboards ill with exciting new ingredients. FOOD TRENDS Waterless cooking, baked chips, violet, bee pollen, tahini, za’atar.

PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS, GERDA GENIS, WILLEM LOURENS, DIRK PETERS, SHANE POWELL, TOBY MURPHY, MICHAEL LE GRANGE, CLAIRE GUNN, DONNA LEWIS, CHRISTOPH HEIERLI, MYBURGH DU PLESSIS

By frying his croissant dough, Dominique Ansel creates a monster, birthing not only the cronut, but also the whole genre of Instagram food trends. In SA, bakers follow suit with their own crazy croissant creations. FOOD TRENDS Quinoa, red velvet cake, trule Parmesan fries, ish tacos at The Pot Luck Club, black garlic, chicken wales, gourmet ice cream.

A D V E R T I S I N G

P R O M O T I O N

COCONUT DREAM

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION JACQUELINE BURGESS FOOD ASSISTANT KATE FERREIRA

The hardest thing about cutting out dairy? No swirled yoghurt parfaits, no dollop of raita with curry and no rich, creamy dressings. Fear not: Woolworths’ dairy-free range of creams and yoghurts has you covered. Made with coconut milk and no added preservatives, they’re the answer to dairy-free creaminess. Choose your favourite from plain cultured, mango-andpassion fruit cultured coconut made with live vegan cultures, and coconut cream. Spoon over vegan banana and buckwheat pancakes with blueberries, pistachios and a drizzle of maple syrup. You won’t even realise you’re missing dairy! rt

Look out for this icon in store to ﬁnd what you need for your plant-based lifestyle.

CO MPE T I T I O N

WIN,WINE AND DINE A lucky TASTE reader, plus seven of their closest friends, will win a luxurious food-and-wine experience at historic La Motte wine estate in Franschhoek, worth R20 000! You know who your friends are…

La Motte wine estate in Franschhoek boasts a noble heritage of wine-making, which started when vines were irst planted on the farm in 1752. The Rupert family has continued this proud tradition and the estate now comprises the wine cellar, a museum showcasing the works of renowned South African artist Pierneef, the stylish Pierneef à La Motte restaurant headed by executive chef Eric Bulpitt, a hiking trail, farm shop and various historical buildings. Visitors are treated to wine-and-food pairings, or vinotheque tastings where they are able to taste older vintages or a special selection of Syrah styles. la-motte.com

THE PRIZE: Welcome refreshments; a tutored vinotheque wine-tasting; a guided tour of the La Motte museum; a three-course lunch with wine pairing at Pierneef à La Motte restaurant; exclusive La Motte gifts, including La Motte wine, Arômes de La Motte body products, wine-and food-tasting vouchers. TO ENTER: Visit taste.co.za, or turn to page 126 for SMS entry instructions. QUESTION: When were vines irst planted at La Motte? KEYWORD: La Motte

BE ST SE LLE RS

Cover stars What do our best-selling issues have in common? Some really beautiful covers. (And for some reason, tomatoes!)

TASTE 79 Dec 2012

Marmalade-glazed gammon

TASTE 76 Sep 2012

Chargrilled lamb with nectarines

TASTE 73 June 2012

TASTE 91 Jan/ Feb 2014

Our top seller ever featured this bright-and-beautiful green tomatoand-watermelon salad, Siba Mtongana’s Valentine’s spread, Mariana Esterhuizen’s mussels, and strawberry ice-cream sandwiches

TASTE 101 Dec 2014

Oak-smoked trout salad wreath 9

TASTE 61 May 2011

Slow-roast pork with apple

TASTE 124 Jan/Feb 2017

Greek salad with halloumi

TASTE 88 Oct 2013

Milk stout cake with butterscotch

TASTE 80 Jan/Feb 2013

Halloumi-and-tomato salad

TASTE 58 Jan/Feb 2011

Greek salad reloaded

PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS, TOBY MURPHY, CHRISTOPH HEIERLI, DAWIE VERWEY, MARK SERRA, MICHAEL LE GRANGE PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY FOOD ASSISTANTS HANNAH LEWRY, CLEMENT PEDRO

MasterChef SA mac-and-cheese

EVERY DETAIL MAKES A N MSC CRUISE NOT JUST A N Y CRUISE . Every detail on an MSC Cruise makes you live a unique experience. Like each of the strawberries dipped in 30g of sumptuous dark chocolate and 5g of white chocolate that we offer to welcome the most loyal guests, which is just one example of many delicacies handmade on board by our select chefs using only the freshest ingredients. Another meticulously crafted touch of class. Developed with you in mind.

NOT JUST ANY CRUISE ms c c rui se s . c o . za

BASK E T HE RO E S

Our history is also the story of 15 years of working with Woolies’ iconic product Here are some of the team’s favourites that t you'll always ﬁnd in our shopping ba ets

Ayrshire milk The rBST-free essential that makes our matcha lattes, lat whites and Mexican hot chocolate creamy and full of lavour. 6

Chuckles malted puffs

Prawn cocktail chips

“I W PR C CH TH I EV AT AB

Chuckles malted pufs We dare you to eat just one! 1

Beef lasagne Comfort in a bowl! Serve with exotic tomatoes, olives and pea shoots. 2

Tenderstem broccoli Add it to a stir-fry, or sauté and toss through fettuccine with pecorino. 3

E WORT N COC S. THEY FIRST T R BOU OOL E AI O

S TAIL E NG G T – NELLY L

lemenGolds Our ther secret fridge staple? Woolies’ freshly squeezed ClemenGold juice. 14

Tin Roof ice cream

Prawn cocktail chips That sizzle on the tongue! 4

Rotisserie chicken The s dwich we The best thing abou make using lef vers the next da witth lashings sriracha mayo and avo. 5

s Our pairing? With one of Abi’s owstopping cakes (see page 16). s The other way to our hearts.

T Tin Roof ice cream Is it st us who dig for the chocol

Stone fruit

Cofee Kenyan single-origin beans or Colombian instant: either way, we can’t function ithout our ix. 11

vocados Rev avo toast with anchovies, ves, capers nd lemon, or crispy P a ham. Ston fruit Eat them f h w the juice running down to your elbows.

Cherries and berries

JAN RAS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEEWRY

D ASSISTA ASSISTANT KATEE FERREIRA RREIRA

Fresh butternut soup Our winter saviour. Top with chorizo, ffeta and pesto for a slap-up dinner.

TOGRAP

Cherries and berries The ultimate cheesecake toppe 7

A D V E R T I S I N G

P R O M O T I O N

HERITAGE HEROES

Since opening in 2010, Pierneef à La Motte restaurant has been renowned for its exceptional cuisine, innovative wine experience and authentic Cape winelands hospitality. Newly appointed executive chef Eric Bulpitt is embracing global culinary trends and shining a new light on heritage cuisine. The sophisticated à la carte menu showcases seasonal, sustainable and locally sourced ingredients, paired with wines from the estate’s cellar, as well as those from other South African and international farms. A summer garden sharing menu will be introduced in October allowing guests to make the most of the estate’s beautiful grounds in a relaxed environment. la-motte.com

Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18

LIQUID GOLD South African extra virgin olive oils are glowing! Local producers overcame challenging weather conditions to excel at the 2018 SA Olive Awards, presenting oils with C pYQPFGTHWN CTTC[ QH CTQOCU CPF ƃCXQWTUq CEEQTFKPI VQ both local and international judges. A whopping 93 extra virgin olive oils were entered into the competition, and the panel awarded an impressive 21 gold, 34 silver and 26 bronze medals. For more information visit saolive.co.za.

THE CTC SEAL MEANS YOU’RE GETTING THE BEST OLIVE OIL It guarantees that the oil is 100% locally produced. The year of the harvest is displayed so you can see how fresh the oil is. It shows that the producer is committed to the SA Olive codes of practice, based on international quality standards. Extra virgin olive oils have Lii ÛiÀ wi` >Ã ÃÕV by a panel of expert taster .

SERVING SUGGESTION There are three styles of extra virgin olive oil: delicate, medium and intense/robust. Everyone has a personal favourite, but try using a delicate v À L> } > ` wÃ Æ medium for salads and À >ÃÌi` Ûi}iÌ>L iÃÆ and intense for grilled or roasted meats and tomato dishes.

I N T E RN E T STA RS

Greatest hits

We can’t tell you for sure how South African tastes are changing, but the 15 recipes getting the most traffic on taste.co.za might just give you a good idea

Banana loaf Clement Pedro’s classic banana loaf recipe is a real winner. Add chopped pecans or walnuts for crunch, or a cup of chocolate chips for something a little sweeter. 5

1 Dombolo

Stiff pap Making great pap is an art, and Siba is an artist. The secret’s in allowing the pap to steam with the lid on for 10–15 minutes over a low heat at the end, and inishing it with a pat of butter. 6

No-bake cheesecake This fridge-set cheesecake is a recipe to bookmark. Top with blueberries, raspberries and sliced plums – or any seasonal fruit. 7

Dombolo Steamy hot bread on a saucy stew? You have our attention! Our version of the traditional recipe uses a mix of mielie meal and cake lour for more texture. You can also add canned sweetcorn. 1

Flapjacks Whether you call them drop scones, lapjacks or crumpets, these doughy treats are a South African favourite. This recipe was created by TASTE reader Stephanie Abrahams. It’s an evolution of her mother’s version and includes sliced banana dropped into the batter while it cooks. Genius!

“MY MOTHER WOULD MAKE THE DOUGH FOR THE DOMBOLO IN THE MORNING AND PUT IT IN A WARM SPOT TO RISE WHILE SHE WAS AT WORK” – SIBA MTONGANA

Traditional malva As far as we can tell, Abigail Donnelly’s malva pudding is a staple in many South African households. Serve with custard or risk the wrath of the nation.

Cape Malay pickled ﬁsh No surprises that traic for this recipe spikes at Easter. Make it two days ahead to allow the ish to absorb all that lavour.

Cape Malay pickled ﬁsh

Home-baked scones So you think scones need to be sweet? Think again! Abigail’s gloriously simple scones are perfect every time, and contain no sugar, so you can top them with lashings of butter, raspberry jam and cream and feel no guilt. 8

A D V E R T I S I N G

P R O M O T I O N

SODA SIPPERS

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION JACQUELINE BURGESS FOOD ASSISTANT KATE FERREIRA

Planning a party, need a new mixer for your gin or just want a refreshing, tasty way to end the day? Keep things interesting with Woolworths’ range of sodas, now available in two new flavours: litchi and coco-pine. Made with spring water, and boasting new, improved recipes, Woolworths’ regular sodas contain no artificial sweeteners. Serve chilled with a slice of lime, fresh pineapple or granadilla pulp, and plenty of ice. Cheers! woolworths.co.za

I N T E RN E T STA RS

DOMBOLO

1 Mix all the dry ingredients in a large bowl. 2 Pour in the water and mix until you have a pliable dough, adding more water if necessary. Knead for about 10 minutes, or until soft and smooth. Place in a lightly oiled bowl or plastic bag and leave in a warm place to rise for about an hour. 3 Divide the dough into small pieces and roll into balls. Place on a lightly greased baking tray, cover with a clean tea towel and leave in a warm place for 10 minutes. 4 Place the dumplings on top of your stew, cover the pot and cook for 20– 30 minutes, or until pufed up.

No-bake cheesecake

Creamy garlic mussels This simple recipe features the classic ingredients: garlic, cream and white wine. What’s non-negotiable? Hot, crusty bread to soak up that magniicent sauce.

Classic Peppermint Crisp tart Want to make this uniquely South African dessert feel fancy? Make individual tarts for each guest and top with a cloud of candyloss.

Sticky malva with brandy sauce Hannah Lewry’s take on malva pudding includes apricot jam, vinegar, plus a dash of brandy or orange juice. Served with vanilla custard, it’s a winner.

Buttermilk rusks This classic rusk recipe was passed down from a grandmother – so we know it’s the real deal. It uses yeast, which means it takes a little longer to make, but the crumb and lavour are far superior.

Classic Peppermint Crisp tart

Pork sausage sweet tomato and potato tray bake

Oxtail stew with dumplings This unctuous stew is loaded with lavour from chermoula, thyme, bacon and leeks. The steamed dombolo make it irresistible. 13

Pumpkin fritters You can use pumpkin or butternut for these easy fritters. Dust with icing sugar and cinnamon and eat them while they’re still hot. 14

Pork sausage sweet tomato and potato tray bake All hail the tray bake! This iveingredient version features crispy potatoes, sweet tomatoes and juicy pork sausages. 15

Find all the recipes at taste.co.za.

PHOTOGRAPHS WILLEM LOURENS, JAN RAS, TOBY MURPHY PRODUCTION AND RECIPES ABIGAIL DONNELLY, MONCHÉ MULLER, HANNAH LEWRY, SIBA MTONGANA, LENÉ ROUX FOOD ASSISTANTS CALLAN ARTUS, BRAD BOTHA, JACQUELINE BURGESS, CHIARA TURILLI, JALAUN BEUKES, CLAIRE FERRANDI, CHAD JANUARY

cake lour 125 g mielie meal 125 g instant dry yeast 1 t sugar 4 T salt ½ t warm water 1 cup

Imagine the

possibilities

NQtac CORPORATE Contact: Irene Smith Tel: +27 (0) 44 873 4771 Email: irene@nqtac.co.za Website: www.nqtac.co.za

NQtac HOTEL SCHOOL Contact: Lisa Schewitz Tel: +27 (0) 44 873 4771 Email: lisa@nqtac.co.za Website: www.nqtac.co.za

BUBBLI N G UN DE R

Flying high To date, the Woolworths TASTE Eat Out Bursary has helped 12 talented young chefs receive training at a top cooking school. We caught up with some of the past winners to find out where they are now

Ayanda Matomela, 2016 winner “I’m in my second year at Silwood School of Cookery in Cape Town. It’s tough, but worth it! I recently did a stint at La Petite Colombe in Franschhoek and I learnt a lot of new recipes and techniques, including a delicious fermented caulilower dish. Now I’m at La Colombe in Constantia. Here’s a pic that I took in the kitchen (right). It’s going to be a busy service!” Damien Stemmet, 2012 winner “I work at Escoier Catering in Cape Town. I have an amazing boss who has allowed me to grow so much. Tomorrow night we’re catering a dinner for 125 people and will serve beef illet and ish. People always ask for our pumpkin fritters – we have to make extra because everyone takes three or four each! No number of people scares us, whether it’s 10 or 1 500 guests. The key is not to stress, keep your head and ‘MAP’ – make a plan!”

Pumpkin fritters made by Damien at Escoffier Catering.

Ayanda with the La Colombe team

“THE KEY IS NOT TO STRESS, KEEP YOUR HEAD AND ‘MAP’ – MAKE A PLAN” – DAMIEN STEMMET Charlton de Ruiter, 2015 winner “I’m now in my third year at Silwood and I’m doing my practical at Overture in Stellenbosch. I started in the cold section, went on to pastry, and now I’m sending out mains. Bertus [Basson] is very strict but I love it. I like to be pushed. My favourite dish is the yellowtail served raw with cucumber and tomato cubes, roasted macadamia nuts, and a sauce of onion and tomatoes infused with garlic.” @charltonderuiter

Amanda Manyatshe, 2013 winner “I’m a private chef and am currently working on an exciting project that’s still under wraps. Working as a private chef has given me the freedom to be able to do a lot of networking and research. In the new year, I’m going to start a photography course. I’ve also had time to seek out a mentor, develop recipes and add to my food photo library. There’s a lot of learning going on!” @rvelvetcreme

BUBBLI N G UN DE R

The butcher bird’s pantry at Greenhouse.

Thozamile Mgumane, 2014 winner “After completing my studies at Silwood School of Cookery last year, I started working at Greenhouse at the Cellars-Hohenort Hotel in Constantia at the end of February 2018. I’m really happy – I’m working on canapés at the moment and learning a lot. My favourite dish on the menu is the butcher bird’s pantry (above).” @thozamilemgumane

“WHEN I TOOK THAT CHANCE BACK IN 2010 AND APPLIED FOR THE BURSARY, I HAD NO IDEA WHAT IT WOULD BRING” – ZIYANDA MVUSI

Nkululeko Bryan Mlotshwa, 2017 winner “The Jackie Cameron School of Food and Wine is fabulous. Every day I learn new skills and techniques. The most diicult recipe so far has been pain au chocolat – it asks for perfection in every step. My favourite dish? I love cooking spicy lamb curry, because before chef school I had never cooked a curry before.” @nkululeko_mlotshwa4

Joy Mavi, 2009 winner “Silwood was fantastic – it opened a lot of doors for me. I inished in 2012 and worked at Woolworths for four years in product development. Now I’m working as a private chef for Sol Kerzner in Hout

MAKING IT HAPPEN Carianne Wilkinson, Silwood School of Cookery “We are honoured to have been the training school selected for nine of the bursary recipients, and are proud of the mark our bursary graduates have made thus far in the food industry. Their success is proof that their training has equipped them to succeed in their chosen food careers.” Jackie Cameron, Jackie Cameron School of Food & Wine “Nkululeko Bryan Mlotshwa, the 2017 bursary winner, is an inspiration and I cannot wait to see how well he does in the industry. I thank TASTE for bringing him into my life and my school. He has made so many delicious things – from artisanal bread to cake icing, and gives his all to everything he does.” Reinette Geldenhuis, Woolworths “I have been involved since the irst bursary award. It’s been a humbling experience to see the determination that the entrants show to take this chance and make their dreams come true. Some of the winners have truly excelled and I am so impressed with the talent they have displayed.”

Nkululeko’s bean soup with marrow and dumplings

Entries are closed for 2019 but keep an eye on taste.co.za for the 2020 bursary, which will open for entry in May 2019.

THE BUTCHER BIRD'S PANTRY PHOTOGRAPH GREENHOUSE NKULELEKO BRYAN MLOTSHWA PORTRAIT KAREN EDWARDS

Ziyanda Mvusi, 2010 winner “When I took that chance back in 2010 and applied for the bursary that changed my life, I had no idea what it would bring. Silwood was an experience that I will never forget. Since then, I have worked at some of the best restaurants and catering companies, and now work as a private chef. I’ve had the opportunity to cook for local and international celebrities and politicians. Cooking reminds me of my late mother, Nontobeko Mvusi, and grandmother, Lillian Mvusi, and today I have a company named after her – Lillian’s Table – what a blessing! Thank you Woolworths and TASTE!” @privatechef_zee

BUBBLI NG UN DE R

Bay. My favourite dish right now? One that worked out well was a melanzane – baked brinjal with caulilower and nutritional yeast to give it that cheesy lavour. I’ve been experimenting with a lot of vegan dishes lately.” @mavi_mzwabantu_joy Zahir Isaacs, 2011 winner “After inishing at Silwood, I did some private cheing, then worked at several restaurants. I was head chef of RUA in Wembley Square in Cape Town, and designed the menus for Brick Lane Eatery and Orphanage. Now I’ve moved to an agency. I work in quality control as a hot foods co-ordinator and am learning new oice and management skills. I’d like to thank Woolworths for the opportunity they gave me.”

“I’D LIKE TO THANK WOOLWORTHS FOR THE OPPORTUNITY THEY GAVE ME” – ZAHIR ISAACS

Zahir's beef tacos

WHAT I K N OW N OW

Abigail Donnelly In the 12 years that Abigail has served as TASTE’s food editor, she has created, tested and styled over 2 000 unique recipes. She’s also won awards, mentored a generation, and eaten more than her fair share of raspberry jelly national service in Springs. We met in a club called Heaven in Hillbrow. I followed him to Cape Town.

TASTE food editor Abigail Donnelly

My irst job in the Woolworths building was on the sixth loor, doing insurance claims. All I wanted to do was to be one of the people wearing hair nets, preparing food in the canteen downstairs. Terry told me to quit, and for the irst time, I had space to explore. I did a correspondence course in hospitality, and waitressed at a hotel at the same time.

“MY FIRST JOB AT WOOLWORTHS WAS ON THE SIXTH FLOOR DOING INSURANCE CLAIMS. ALL I WANTED TO DO WAS WORK IN THE CANTEEN”

When I was growing up in Zimbabwe I wanted to be an air-hostess. It was the eighties, and it seemed so glamorous. My gran was English and an amazing classical cook. She would cook ofal, rich rice puddings, bread-andbutter puddings, and dripping on toast. I spent a lot of time with my grandparents in the school holidays. I still remember shelling peas with her by the pool.

The irst thing I cooked was spaghetti Bolognese. And when my younger brother had sleepovers, I would set the breakfast table before I went to bed. I think I’ve always loved beautiful things. When I left school, there was no money for me to study, so I became an insurance broker. I met my husband, Terry, when I was 20, when he was doing his

I ran a cofee shop called The Tea Pot in Long Street. We never made money, but we made beautiful things. Fairlady’s beauty editor used to come in to order food and after a big shake up at the magazine, I got the food editor job there. I always wanted to work at TASTE. But when they were looking for a food editor Phillippa Cheiitz got the job. I was devastated. But then I was ofered

PORTRAIT JAN RAS INTERVIEW KATHARINE POPE

I won a newspaper bread-making competition with my tomato-andgreen peppercorn loaf. The manager where I was waitressing saw the article in the Argus, and he moved me into the kitchen. One day, the chef had a tantrum and the owner ired him. We had a wedding on the next day, and I remember doing orange segments and black olives with a fennel curl as starters. The owner thought it was amazing!

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION JACQUELINE BURGESS FOOD ASSISTANT KELETSO MOTAU

A D V E R T I S I N G

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WHAT I K N OW N OW

Abi’s éclairs with lemon custard and caramelised white chocolate

Abi’s Asian sticky shortribs

the position of Eat Out editor. I was terriied. I was there a month before I found out I was pregnant with my second child; then Terry was retrenched. It was a very diicult time. I was soon ofered the TASTE food editor position, as well as the Eat Out job.

My waters broke on a TASTE brinjal shoot. We were in the Bo-Kaap with photographer Neil Corder. But everything worked out okay: Matthew is 11 and I still love brinjals! Working with Woolies is an absolute luxury; we really are lucky. We have so much freedom on an editorial level. We have a small team, and their support is amazing. When I was younger, Vogue Entertaining and Donna Hay magazines were my inspiration. Now it’s young people. Chefs inspire me, too. I remember when Margot Janse (chef of the former Tasting Room) made a beautiful piece of ish with a granadilla reduction. It was a complicated dish, but I was so inspired by the lavour that I developed a recipe for fresh granadilla dressing on a piece of hake.

We go to great lengths to get the best picture. There’s a lot of pressure to get it right. The worst was an infamous braai shoot. My editor had said to me that only Maranda Engelbrecht could shoot a braai, but I was convinced I could do better. I live in a little wooden

“YOU NEED TO CHALLENGE YOURSELF AND BE SCARED. I’VE BEEN SCARED FOR THE PAST SIX MONTHS!” cottage by the sea in Glencairn and we shot in my garden. I kept saying to the photographer, “I don’t want dead coals, I want the food to be bubbling.” I was bringing out a tray of prawns from the kitchen and as I walked outside, I saw lames licking the side of my cottage! We never found those prawns! I threw them and myself onto the ire. To get more lames, my assistant had thrown the whole bottle of parain into the ire and the lames had engulfed his arm and started to burn the house. I put it out with my body. It was crazy to think how

ridiculously stupid we were. But that’s what you do to get the pictures.

Curry is my favourite food. I love going to the Britannia Hotel in Durban to have tripe and trotters, or bean curry. I’ve always been known as the messy stylist, but it’s in a considered, contained way. It makes an emotional connection with the reader: if a cake is crumbly and the icing is smudged, they know they can do it, too. You’ve got to be brave to be messy. We always have raspberry jelly in the fridge at home. And homemade miso mayo, Parmesan, lemons, sparkling water, and a lot of Asian ingredients. Anchovies are my salt. Next, there are two cookbooks in the pipeline – a collaboration and my own. I now split my time between TASTE and Woolworths – I love it and it’s a challenge. It makes me to do better work and push boundaries. You need to challenge yourself and be scared again. I’ve been scared for the past six months! Follow @donnellyabi on Instagram.

PHOTOGRAPHS DONNA LEWIS, CHRISTOPH HEIERLI PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY FOOD ASSISTANTS CLEMENT PEDRO, CHARLENE PRETORIUS, ROSALIND MCONIE

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15 I CO N I C WI N E S

15 top bottles Allan Mullins has been TASTE’s wine expert since 2003. He’s spent 28 years working with Woolworths and SA’s best winemakers, so when he says these are the 15 wines you need to taste in your lifetime, you'd better start drinking

The 28-year-old award-winner 1

Neil Ellis Reserve Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2016, R99.99

The irst time Neil blended this wine with me was back in 1990. It was awarded ive stars in the Platter’s wine guide that year and it’s still a winner on our shelves. Neil is one of SA’s wine pioneers and he – and now his sons – have always brought a free-thinking approach to winemaking. Pair this bottle with roasts or game – and lengthy discussions about life, wine and rugby, as we always did in the cellar.

The affordable Bordeaux blend 2

La Motte Grand Rouge 2016, R62.99

The 1989 Grand Rouge was my irst Woolworths red blend and it was made with La Motte’s irst winemaker, Jacques Borman. These days, our staf often ask me about “that Grand Rogue” wine – I’m not sure if they are referring to me or him! It’s now made by Edmund Terblanche, who was Jacques’ assistant when we started all those years ago.

The Pinot that scales mountains 3

Catherine Marshall Pinot Noir 2017, R139.99

In 1997, Catherine Marshall strode boldly into the male-dominated world of winemaking, then fell in love with the diicult-tomake grape, Pinot Noir. “It’s taken me on an incredible journey on which I have met extraordinary people. I even took a bottle of my Pinot to Everest base camp!” She says of her 2017 vintage for Woolies: “It’s from Elgin, a valley that relects the pure, bright, fresh and expressive character with restraint and classic Burgundian charm that I look for in a perfect Pinot Noir.”

The unwooded Chardonnay 4

De Wetshof Limestone Hill Chardonnay 2018, R92.99

International wine critic Robert Parker says this unwooded Chardonnay “possesses far better balance and sheer drinkability, not to mention more inesse, than 99% of the world’s Chardonnay I have experienced at its price.” Little wonder that it’s been a regular Veritas doublegold winner since Danie de Wet and I irst started blending it in 1998.

The Sauvy you can age

Cape Point Cape Town Sauvignon Blanc 2018, R99.99

In 2006, Duncan Savage and I debuted th as a limited release. The irst three vintagees were awarded Platter’s ive-star ratings, r r in those days. Current winemaker Riandri Visser says 8% Semillon adds richness and texture, making it an interesting one to age 6

The classic Merlot

The complex Pinotage 7

La Motte Platinum Collection Merlot 2016, R84.99

Woolworths Beyerskloof Reserve Collection Pinotage 2017, R84.99

There are two schools of Merlot winemakers: those who want it ripe for the plummy richness, colour and heavy body to produce blockbuster wines, and those who prefer more berry fruit in a lighter style to make classic, perfumey Merlots. Winemaker Edmund Terblanche says the latter approach results in a wine that outperforms the blockbusters in the long run, and this one is juicy, elegant and extremely drinkable.

The king of Cabs

Spier Private Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, R169.99

Spier is one of Woolies’ key producers and this phenomenal wine has been on the shelves for 11 years (in 2017, the 2014 vintage was crowned Grand Cru National Champion in the Top 100 SA Wine Awards). Fruit drives it, while subtle spiciness, oak and ine tannins complement the richly textured mid-palate.

Beyers Truter and his son, Anri, who took over as chief winemaker in 2007, say there’s been exceptional growth in the popularity of SA’s national grape locally and overseas. Beyerskloof is where Pinotage rules and it’s been a privilege to work with this multiaward-winning farm for years, especially to produce this one, which has soft tannins.

The subtly oaked Chardonnay 9

De Morgenzon Reserve Chardonnay 2016, R374.99

This wine by cellarmaster Carl van der Merwe has raked in the awards, including the Chardonnay Trophy and Best White Wine Overall at the 2017 Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show. You can keep it for up to eight years – if you manage to resist the temptation of its delicate oak lavours with layers of white peach, apricot, grapefruit and vanilla.

The risk-taking MCC

Simonsig NSA Méthode Cap Classique Brut Rosé 2016, R129.99

The 2016 vintage won the trophy for the best Rosé MCC at the 2017 Amorim MCC Challenge, amazing considering how challenging it is to work without sulphur dioxide, which protects against oxidation. This one’s exclusive to Woolworths.

15 I CO O N I C WI N E S

The timeless Bordeaux blend 11

The legendary Chenin Blanc 12

Jordan Cobblers Hill 2013, R399.99

Ken Forrester The FMC Chenin Blanc 2016, R399.99

I lectured Gary and Kathy Jordan at the Cape Wine Academy and they blame me for their decision to study winemaking in California. I take no credit, however, for their success in producing award-winning wines. The Cobblers Hill is one of Woolies’ most awarded wines and it’s the epitome of a richly structured Bordeaux blend, with black berry lavours from the Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), dark plum from the Merlot (30%) and spiciness ciness on the palate from the Cabernet Franc (20%).

Ken is South Africa’s undisputed king of Chenin and the FMC, made with Martin Meinert, lies the lag for local white wines – it’s listed in some of the world’s top restaurants, including Per Se in New York and The Test Kitchen in Cape Town. Incredibly, this year we celebrate the 18th vintage of a wine that’s the ultimate example of what can be achieved with this grape.

The exclusive French Champagne 14

e The prestige cuvée

Villiera Méthode Cap Classique Vintage Reserve Brut 2011, R189.99

Woolworths and the Grier family have been making wines together since 1986 and this MCC – Woolies’ house bubbly from the word go – has always been a highlight. A prestige cuvée is produced whenever conditions favour the production of ine sparkling wine, and this one is fantasticc as an apéritif with oysters, or as an accompaniment to salmon or mussels. 15

The perfect food wine

Haute Cabrière Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2017, R99.99

Achim von Arnim is by any measure an extraordinary man and in his cavalier style has initiated and driven new w ways of working in the wine industry. His mantra is that wine must be enjo oyed with food, so when the Woolworrths team went to taste this new winee in 1994, he had laid on a feast at 10 am. Needless to say, the wine went onto our shelves and customers still lo ove it.

Champagne Comtesse Alexia Brut Non Vintage, R349.99

Woolworths is the only local retailer to have its own French Champagne label, courtesy of this superb non-vintage supplied by the Alexandre Bonnet House of Champagne. It’s a classic blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Meunier and I love the lively, ine bubbles and delicate loral aromas.

“WOOLIES IS THE ONLY LOCAL RETAILER TO HAVE ITS OWN FRENCH CHAMPAGNE LABEL – COMTESSE ALEXIA”

A D V E R T I S I N G

P R O M O T I O N

THE FAST SNACK

Serving suggestions Top a pizza with sliced smoked free-range chicken breast, Peppadews and rocket; build a Dagwood sandwich with pastrami, shaved cucumbers, guacamole, sundried tomatoes, BBQ chicken breast and pesto; or create a platter of laked, smoked salmon with pickled red onions, exotic tomatoes, fennel and cucumber shavings.

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION JACQUELINE BURGESS FOOD ASSISTANT KATE FERREIRA

Need to upgrade a desk lunch or create dinner out of odds and ends? Grab one of Woolies’ Simply Add deli products and you’ll be ready to feast in no time. Choose from a range of sliced chicken, beef, turkey or flaked smoked mackerel or salmon. They’re all you need to transform a snack into a spread worth sharing. woolworths.co.za

TAST E S T HAT BI N D

PIECE OF CAKE The elaborate cakes SAM WOULIDGE orders for her son’s birthday parties are to indulge her own childhood birthday fantasies, because it’s her lurid home-made velvet cupcakes that he really loves PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT KATE FERREIRA

enormous blue-and-red, three-tier spaceand-astronaut cake was perfect in every way, especially once I’d rubbed some instant cofee onto the astronaut’s skin. Birthday Four delivered an exquisite dinosaur-and-train cake to tie in with the venue – The Blue Train Park in Mouille Point – and because four-year-old boys are dinosaur-obsessed. I made myself a necklace out of plastic dinosaurs and made Jacques wear a ridiculous T-Rex T-shirt that said “If you’re happy and you know it clap your hands”. This year was a Lollos en Lettie afair (Afrikaans Barney-type dancing dinosaurs who have quite the cult following among ive-year-olds), so the cake was an enormous Table Mountain with Lollos and Lettie sliding down a rainbow. It was an architectural and artistic feat. Glorious, like all the others, until the knife cut through the thick fondant icing. And then it’s all gone. Much like the party budget once the cake has been paid for. So it’s a good thing that all kids really want to eat at parties are Flings, Fizzers and a Chomp. And sour worms. Apparently sour worms are non-negotiable. Another staple are the velvet cupcakes –

ANY-COLOUR-YOU-LIKE VELVET CUPCAKES

buttermilk 1 cup free-range eggs 2, at room temperature canola oil 1½ cups white vinegar 1 t red food colouring 5 t (if you want traditional red velvets but I like to play around with the amazingly coloured gel food colouring that you get at speciality baking shops) vanilla extract ½ t

This recipe was given to me by my friends Callie Maritz and Mari-Louis Guy – both brilliant bakers and fabulous food stylists. Please note that they are in no way responsible for the garish colours I use when baking these. Makes 18 to 24 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 25 minutes Baking: 20 minutes For the cupcakes: cake lour 300 g sugar 300 g bicarbonate of soda 1 t cocoa powder 1 t salt 1 t

For the cream-cheese frosting: plain full-cream cream cheese 250 g butter 250 g, softened icing sugar 260 g, sifted vanilla extract ½ t food colouring (optional) 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line

2 muin pans with 18–24 paper cases

“IT’S A GOOD THING THAT ALL KIDS REALLY WANT AT PARTIES ARE FLINGS, FIZZERS AND A CHOMP. AND SOUR WORMS. APPARENTLY SOUR WORMS ARE NON-NEGOTIABLE” made garish with too much food colouring – that Seb and I make the night before his party. Seb “drives” the ire-engine-red KitchenAid while I pour in the buttermilk and we talk. About the party. And dinosaurs. Or trains. Or space ships. And the day of his birth. And I tell him as much as we know. Then, while licking the cream cheese icing from the bowl, I hold my son and the woman who made me a mother in my heart. And I know, with absolute certainty, that it’s the memory of these lurid cakes, which leave stains on our ingers and icing on our clothes, that will stay with him long after the others have been forgotten. W confessionsofahungrywoman.com; @samwoulidge

(depending on how big you prefer your cupcakes). 2 Sift the lour, sugar, bicarbonate of soda, cocoa and salt into a mixing bowl. 3 In a separate large bowl, combine the buttermilk, eggs, oil, vinegar, food colouring and vanilla extract. Gradually add the lour mixture to the buttermilk mixture. 4 Divide the batter evenly between the paper cases and bake for 18–20 minutes. Allow to cool on a wire rack before icing. 5 To make the frosting, beat the cream cheese and butter in an electric mixer using the paddle attachment until light and lufy. Add the icing sugar and beat well. Add the vanilla extract and beat until just combined. Allow the frosting to rest for 20 minutes in the fridge before using. Ice the cupcakes and decorate wildly.

PORTRAIT MICHAEL LE GRANGE

’m now living my very best birthday life. And no, I haven’t had a birthday party in years. I still mark the occasion (gifts and high-thread-count hotel sheets are always welcome) but I have no interest in planning my own parties. Why would I, when I’m having so much fun Pinteresting my son’s? It is in the Pinteresting and the planning that my joy lies. What I may lack in artistic talent and practical know-how, I more than make up for with enthusiasm and my ability to ind the very best matchy-matchy paper plates, serviettes and Chinese paper lanterns at discount shops. And I always outsource the lavish birthday cakes. My mother – who favoured the home-made, but practical birthday cake – would be appalled. I know I’m indulging my own childhood party fantasies, but I also love seeing my son’s response to these delicious dioramas. The irst cake, for Seb’s second birthday, was an orange-and-green Go Dog Go! confection based on the PD Eastman book about dogs in fast cars and fancy hats, which I loved as a child. Admittedly, the cake was more for me than it was for him, but we seemed to love it equally. His third birthday party was space-themed and the

TAST E S T HAT BI N D

E ASY E N T E RTA I N IN G

CREAM CHEESEAND-CHIVE DIP

HUMMUS

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PART Y TR ICKS

ROASTED ONION DIP

PHOTOGRAPHS SADIQAH ASSUR-ISMAIL RECIPES AND PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANTS KATE FERREIRA AND JACQUELINE BURGESS

E ASY E N T E RTA I N I N G

HOW TO COOK TUNA TO PERFECTION

Entertaining doesn’t have to mean table settings and napkin swans. Keep things casual with a communal platter so guests can serve themselves

Want to get perfectly cooked tuna portions? When cooking from frozen, allow the portions to thaw only partially, not all the way through. That way, they won’t overcook when you sear them.

Dressed-up dips ROASTED ONION DIP

Make a batch of tofee onions from the recipe on page 74 and serve on top of a swirl of roasted onion dip with a sprinkling of microherbs. CREAM CHEESE-ANDCHIVE DIP Garnish with a selection

of micro veggies and grate over pink or purple radishes to add texture and colour. HUMMUS Bake 1 x 400 g can drained

and rinsed chickpeas under a hot grill on a dry baking tray. When they start to pop, toss them in a dash of smoked paprika, sliced garlic and a drizzle of olive oil. Season, and return to the grill for a few minutes, until crunchy. Sprinkle over the dip with pomegranate rubies and good-quality extra virgin olive oil. Be sure to use the chickpeas on the same day.

Mexican-style seared tuna nacho salad Partially thaw 1 x 400 g pack Woolworths frozen yellowin tuna portions. Meanwhile, toss the segments of 3 grapefruit (save any juice to dress the salad), 2 cubed avocados, the kernels of 2 charred mielies, 1 x 25 g tub Woolworths baby herb leaves, a squeeze of lime juice and a drizzle of olive oil. Season to taste. Preheat a griddle pan over a very high heat. Brush the tuna generously with Woolworths Clarks Kitchen chipotle chilli sauce and sear for 30 seconds to 1 minute on each side, basting. Slice and layer with the salad, Woolworths multigrain nacho chips, and chopped chilli. Serves 4 HEALTHCONSCIOUS, WHEAT- AND GLUTENFREE • WINE: Woolworths Catherine Marshall Pinot Noir 2017

MEXICAN-STYLE SEARED TUNA NACHO SALAD

“SOMETIMES AL A SPREAD OF DIP , BREAD, A BIG SAL – HANNAH L WRY

Choose a selection of Parma ham, prosciutto crudo, speck, or salame Napoli.

Griddled halloumi adds a new texture.

Score the top of 1 x 250 g Woolworths Camembert cheese in a box, drizzle with a little syrup from Woolworths green ďŹ g preserve and bake until oozy.

Use roasted and salted nuts, seed crackers, or oven-baked heatand-eat breads to add crunch.

Finish with a selection of black and Kalamata olives.

Scatter microherbs over the platter to add a pop of colour.

The ultimate cheeseand-charcuterie platter The key to the ultimate cheeseboard? Balancing sweet and salty lavours, soft and crunchy textures, and rich and fresh ingredients.

Swap the traditional grapes for blueberries and torn ďŹ gs for colour and sweetness.

CHICKEN POTSTICKER SOUP DUMPLINGS

TA K E I T E A S Y Not all dinner party dishes require loads of TLC. Casual get-togethers call for quick, ﬂavour-packed eats that won’t keep you tied to the stove.

I OFTEN S TASTY RE LIKE PIZ MIXES –

SING TS IT

E ASY E N T E RTA I N I N G

CAPRESE PIZZA

MAKE YOUR OWN PIZZA BASES Mix 2 x 10 g packets yeast with 2 cups lukewarm water and 1 T sugar. Set aside for a few minutes. Place 840 g flour and 2 t salt in a large bowl or on a clean surface. Make a well in the middle and pour in the yeast mixture. Using a fork or blunt knife, slowly stir the liquid into the flour to make a dough. As it comes together, knead for 10 minutes, or until smooth and springy. Cover and set aside until doubled in size. Tear off balls, arrange on a tray and allow to rise again until ready to bake. This dough can be used as a thick, foccacia-style base or for thin pizza bases. For thick bases, pull out the dough balls to make rough oval shapes, or roll out to make a thin pizza base. Place on a lightly floured baking tray, drizzle with olive oil and season. Bake at 200°C for 10 minutes, or until light golden. Continue with the Caprese pizza recipe (see below), doubling the quantity of soffrito paste. Makes 6–8 bases (depending on size and thickness)

Chicken potsticker soup dumplings Gently fry 1 cube each Woolworths prepared crushed chilli, ginger and garlic in 2 T canola or sesame oil over a medium heat until fragrant and lightly golden. Add 2 x 500 ml boxes Woolworths organic liquid chicken stock and simmer for 10 minutes. Microwave 2 x 12 packs Woolworths chicken potstickers according to package instructions. Fry in 2 T canola oil in a hot, non-stick pan until a crust forms on the bases, add the accompanying sachets of sauce and shake to coat and caramelise the potstickers. Remove from the pan and fry 1 x 300 g pack sliced exotic mushrooms until golden. Divide the potstickers and mushrooms between 4 bowls, pour over the broth and add a dash of soya and ish sauces. Serve topped with radish sprouts and sesame seeds. Serves 4 FAT-CONSCIOUS, DAIRY-FREE • WINE: Woolworths Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc 2017

CHICKEN POTSTICKER DUMPLINGS

These hand-formed dumplings are ﬁlled with succulent chicken and spring onion and come with a soya-and-sesame p g sauce. R62.99 for 12 dipping

THIN & CRISPY PIZZA BASES

Woolies’ pizza bases are made with a “biga” – an Italian pre-fermented starter dough – and topped with Italian tomato sauce. R54.99 for two

EASY TO BAKE CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE MIX

Made with UTZ Certiﬁed cocoa, these American-style cookies could be yours in just 25 minutes. R42.35 for 270g.

Caprese pizza Spread 1 T each Woolworths tomato paste with vegetable sofritto onto 2 Woolworths thin and crispy pizza bases (or make your own, see above). Top with 300 g torn mozzarella and bake for 7–8 minutes at 200°C. Top with sliced exotic tomatoes, basil and black pepper. Drizzle with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Makes 2 MEAT-FREE • WINE: Black Oystercatcher Sauvignon Blanc 2018

Easy giant chocolate chip cookie Preheat the oven to 180°C. Prepare 1 x 270 g box Woolworths Easy to Bake chocolate chip cookie mix according to package instructions. Spread into a 10 cm circle on a silicone baking mat or baking paper to make one big cookie. Bake for 15–20 minutes. Cool and serve with Woolworths Clark’s Kitchen chocolate marquise dessert sauce. Serves 4 to 6 WINE: Woolworths Diemersfontein Chocolate Pinotage 2018

EASY GIANT CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE

E ASY E N T E RTA I N I N G

The worst thing about entertaining? Washing up, hands down. Do yourself a favour and serve these winning suppers in the centre of the table, straight out the pan

Butter chicken with garlic naan bread Pan-fry 4 cubed free-range chicken breasts in 2 T olive oil until just golden. Pour over 1 x 400 g sachet Woolworths butter chicken cook-in sauce and simmer over a medium to low heat for

15 minutes. Brush 2 Woolworths naan breads with 2 T melted butter, sprinkle over 2 cloves sliced garlic and a few black mustard seeds, then place under the grill for a minute or until golden brown. Serve straight from the pan with fresh coriander and steamed basmati rice on the side. Serves 3 to 4 • WINE: Woolworths Neil Ellis Elgin Chardonnay 2017

Puttanesca baked fish Fry 1 T capers, 4–6 anchovy illets, 3 cloves chopped garlic, 70 g halved olives and 1 chopped chilli in 2 T olive oil in a large ovenproof pan over a medium to low heat. When fragrant, add 2 x 400 g cans cherry tomatoes and bring to a simmer. Add 1 T tomato paste and a little water if necessary to loosen. Meanwhile preheat the grill, grease a baking tray and arrange

HOW TO SEASON A BRANDNEW SKILLET

BUTTER CHICKEN WITH GARLIC NAAN BREAD

Cast-iron skillets can be used on the stovetop, in the oven or even on a braai – plus they look great on the table. Before using a new one, season it by coating it in a thin layer of oil and baking it in the oven. Start in a cool oven and turn up the heat to 180°C. Leave in the oven for 30 minutes, then turn oﬀ the heat and allow to cool completely before removing. Alternatively, opt for an enamel skillet, which doesn’t require seasoning.

PUTTANESCA BAKED FISH

1 x 600 g pack Woolworths frozen hake illets on the tray. Season and grill for 5–7 minutes. Place the ish in the sauce and grate over 50 g Parmesan, then grill until golden and bubbling, 3–5 minutes. Serve hot topped with chopped exotic tomatoes, pickled red onion, basil leaves and orzo, cheesy polenta or Woolworths frozen mash. Serves 4 FAT-CONSCIOUS, HEALTH-CONSCIOUS • WINE: Woolworths Ken Forrester Viognier 2017

Pan-seared thick-cut steaks with toffee onions Preheat the grill. In a very hot cast-iron, ovenproof pan, fry 4 free-range thick-cut sirloin steaks in 2 T olive oil, fat side down irst. Set aside to rest. Add 4 quartered baby onions to the pan, sprinkle with 2–3 T brown sugar and place under the grill for 15–20 minutes. Return the steaks to the pan with a knob of butter and some sage until the butter has melted. Serve with shoestring chips. Serves 4 WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE • WINE: Waterford Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

“IT'S REALLY WORTH INVESTING IN EXCELLENT COOKWARE THAT CAN GO STRAIGHT FROM THE OVEN TO YOUR TABLE” – HANNAH LEWRY

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UP THE STEAKS For a perfectly caramelised crust, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t crowd the pan. Fry a maximum of 2 steaks at a time after you render the fat to avoid a build-up of moisture, which will steam rather than fry.

PAN-SEARED THICK-CUT STEAKS WITH TOFFEE ONIONS

CHEATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S SLOW-COOKED LAMB SHANK LATTICE PIE

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TERIYAKI SALMON

NOODLE BOWLS

Showstopping dishes needn’t take hours of prep or be ﬁendishly diicult. Here are some of our favourites

Cheat’s slow-cooked lamb shank lattice pie Roast 4 Woolworths Easy to Cook slow-cooked lamb shanks according to package instructions. Cut 2 sheets Woolworths all-butter frozen puf pastry into even strips while still frozen. Arrange the pastry in a loose lattice over the warm lamb shanks, brush with egg wash, sprinkle with sea salt and black mustard seeds or sesame seeds. Return to the oven and bake for a further 20– 30 minutes at 200°C until the pastry is golden and cooked through. Serve with garlic mash and garnish with rosemary. Serves 4 • WINE: Woolworths La Motte Shiraz Grenache 2016

Teriyaki salmon noodle bowls Cube 4 portions Woolworths Norwegian salmon leaving the skin on. Toss in 1 T olive oil, sprinkle with sea salt and cook in batches, skin side down, in a smoking hot pan. Don’t overcrowd the pan. Only turn when the ish moves easily in the pan and does not stick – this ensures crispy skin. Cook on the other side for 30 seconds. Remove from the pan and set aside. Toss 2 x 250 g sachets Woolworths Easy to Cook fresh egg noodles in the same pan with Woolworths prepared crushed ginger, garlic and chilli to taste and 1 x 125 ml sachet Woolworths Easy to Wok teriyaki stir-fry sauce. Divide the noodles between 4 bowls, with 120 g sliced blanched mange tout or sugar snap peas and 150 g Woolworths sautéed purple lower sprouts. Serve with the salmon and remaining teriyaki sauce and a sprinkle of toasted sesame seeds to garnish. Serves 4 DAIRY-FREE • WINE:

ADD A KICK Make a boozy version by swirling a dash of Aperol or Campari through the sorbet. Balance the skins on cocktail glasses with Champagne, gin and tonic or Aperol spritz and serve as guests arrive.

Woolworths DMZ Chardonnay 2018

Sorbet citrus skins Halve 1 grapefruit or orange. Cut out the lesh (reserve and use for the nacho salad recipe on page 70) and ill with Woolworths lemon or mixed berry sorbet. You could also use both, and swirl them into one for a two-tone efect. Freeze overnight and cut into wedges to serve. Serve as a palate cleanser before dessert or with a cheeseboard. DAIRY-FREE, WHEATAND GLUTEN-FREE

SORBET CITRUS SKINS

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MARSHMALLOWS WITH TOFFEE SAUCE

INSTANT MAYO

TRENDING TRICKS What’s trending on Pinterest and the ‘gram? EDIBLE FLOWERS on everything from avo toast bites to steak. FROZEN WHITE WINE We’re on board with frosé, but the newest chilled beverage has us stuck for a portmanteau. Chardé or sauvigné? EDIBLE TABLE RUNNERS Heirloom tomatoes, pomegranates, baby pumpkins, pineapples, artichokes and bunches of grapes are popping up on party tables. Arrange them by colour for an ombre eﬀect and nail two trends in one.

BRING Instant mayo Planning a pot-luck supper or bring ‘n’ braai? Show off with one of these tasty contributions

Marshmallows with toffee sauce Prepare 1 x 200 g box Woolworths marshmallows according to package instructions. When set, pour over Woolworths tofee dessert sauce. Serve with hot drinks at the end of the night, or scorched on skewers over the braai. Serves 4. WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE

Place a pinch of salt, the juice of ½ lemon, 1 t Dijon mustard, 1 free-range egg, taking care not to break the yolk, and 1 cup canola oil into the jug of a stick blender. Lower the stick blender into the jug, making sure the basket of the blender is directly over the yolk and begin to blend. Once ribbons of mayo start to appear, pull the blender up to emuslify the remaining mayonnaise. Cook’s note: To make a garlic mayo, add 8 whole roasted garlic cloves. CARB-CONSCIOUS, DAIRY-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE

Lemony garlic marinated baby marrows Slice 2 x 400 g packs Woolworths mixed marrows very thinly using a mandolin or

NACHOS IN A BAG Save on washing up by letting each guest choose a small packet of chips and assemble their own mix of toppings inside the bag. RETRO DISHES SUCH AS MELON BALLS AND PRAWN COCKTAIL are making a comeback. Choose sustainably sourced prawns like Woolworths ASC-approved frozen prawns.

grater. Toss with the juice of 1–2 lemons, 2 cloves crushed garlic, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and season to taste. Before serving, toss and scatter over Parmesan shavings, toasted seeds or pine nuts. Also try chopped Italian parsley, radishes and sliced exotic mushrooms. Serves 8 CARB-CONSCIOUS, FAT-CONSCIOUS, DAIRY-FREE • WINE: Woolworths Jordan Unwooded Chardonnay 2017

79 LEMONY GARLIC MARINATED BABY MARROWS

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“P.S.” ROASTED WHITE CHOCOLATEAND-POPCORN TART R21 PER SERVING

r i

By invitation only PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY FOOD ASSISTANTS KELETSO MOTAU AND KAREN VAN WYNGAARDEN

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Birthday feast menu STARTERS AND SIDES

Prawn salad with black sesame tahini Asparagus with nectarines, goat’s cheese and truﬄe vinaigrette MAINS

Crusted lamb ribs with anchovy-and-parsley salsa Slow-roasted duck with cherry sauce DESSERT

Vanilla soft serve with praline dust Roasted white chocolate tart Chocolate candles with coﬀee

“P.S.” ROASTED WHITE CHOCOLATE-ANDPOPCORN TART

Serves 8 to 10 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 30 minutes, plus 2 hours’ chilling time Cooking: 45 minutes butter 114 g, at room temperature icing sugar 3 T, sifted free-range egg yolk 1 lour 150 g For the illing: Lindt white chocolate 200 g cream 2½ cups microwave buttered, salted popcorn 6 cups, popped 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Beat the

butter and icing sugar until pale and creamy. 2 Mix in the egg yolk, then add the lour and beat until combined. The mixture should form a ball, if it’s too crumbly, add some milk. Flatten the dough into a disc, wrap in clingwrap and chill for 1 hour. 3 Roll out the dough and press into a greased 26 cm loosebottomed pie dish, then chill for 30 minutes. 4 Line the dough with baking paper and dried beans and bake blind for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven, remove the paper and beans and allow to cool. Keep the beans to use again. 5 To make the illing, preheat the oven to 120°C. Place the white chocolate on a silicone baking mat on a baking tray in the oven. After 10 minutes, stir and spread the chocolate. Repeat this

process until the chocolate has turned a light golden colour. The chocolate will become quite crumbly, but once caramelised it will become smooth and shiny. It should take around 45 minutes. 6 Heat 1 cup cream, then remove from the heat, add the popcorn and infuse for 30 minutes. Strain well, scraping the bottom of the sieve to remove all the cream. Stir the popcorn-infused cream into the roasted white chocolate. 7 Beat the remaining cream until thick, then fold into the chocolate mixture. Scoop into the tart shell and freeze for 1 hour. Slice to serve. WINE: Woolworths Ken Forrester Noble Late Harvest 2016

SLOW-ROASTED DUCK WITH CHERRY SAUCE Serves 6 EASY Preparation: 40 minutes Cooking: 7¼ hours Woolworths free-range ducks 2 lemons 4, peeled grapefruit 2, peeled and halved sea salt 2 T For the cherry sauce: Woolworths cranberry sauce 2 x 150 g jars fresh cherries 400 g, stoned 1 Preheat the oven to 120°C. Place the ducks on a rack on a baking tray. 2 Score

the skin of the breasts, taking care not to cut into the lesh. 3 Stuf the lemons and grapefruit into the ducks, then rub the skin with salt. 4 Roast for 6–7 hours, then turn up the heat to 200°C and roast for a further 10 minutes. 5 Meanwhile, make the cherry sauce. Melt the redcurrant sauce in a pan, then add the cherries and simmer until soft. 6 Remove the ducks from the oven and allow to rest for 15 minutes. Break apart and serve with the cherry sauce. Cook’s note: Pour the duck fat and juices into a glass jar or jug. Keep in the fridge and use for roasting potatoes. DAIRY-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE WINE: Woolworths DMZ Pinot Noir 2017

CRUSTED LAMB RIBS WITH ANCHOVY-AND-PARSLEY SALSA

Serves 6 to 8 EASY Preparation: 30 minutes, plus cooling time Cooking: 2 hours 20 minutes Woolworths free-range farm-style lamb ribs 1.2 kg carrots 2, peeled and cut into chunks celery 2 sticks, cut into chunks leeks 2, cut into chunks Woolworths organic beef stock 2 litres sunlower oil, for deep-frying lour 120 g free-range eggs 3, beaten panko breadcrumbs 200 g For the anchovy-and-parsley salsa: anchovy illets 12 garlic 2 cloves, chopped lemons 2, juiced extra virgin olive oil ¼ cup Italian parsley 30 g, roughly chopped 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the

ribs into a deep ovenproof dish with the carrots, celery and leeks. Pour over the beef stock making sure that everything is covered. 2 Cover the dish with foil and braise in the oven for 2 hours, until soft. 3 Remove the dish from the oven, set aside and allow the ribs to cool completely in the liquid. 4 Once the meat is cold, remove it from the liquid and portion into individual ribs. Heat the oil in a deep saucepan. 5 Dip the ribs into the lour, then into the egg and the breadcrumbs. Deep-fry each rib until golden brown. 6 To make the salsa, place all the ingredients into a blender and process until chunky. Serve with the ribs. DAIRY-FREE WINE: Waterford Kevin Arnold Shiraz 2016

CHOCOLATE CANDLES Makes 4 A LITTLE EFFORT Preparation: 30 minutes Marie biscuits 200 g, inely crushed dark chocolate 400 g, melted bay leaves 4 1 Stir the biscuits into the chocolate until well combined. 2 Divide the mixture

into quarters and pour each batch onto a sheet of baking paper in an even line.

“STUFFING THE DUCK WITH LEMON AND GRAPEFRUIT CUTS THE RICHNESS OF THE SUCCULENT MEAT” – ABIGAIL DONNELLY SLOW-ROASTED DUCK WITH CHERRY SAUCE

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POP ALL THE CORKS Sparkling wine – stock up on local Méthode Cap Classique – is versatile enough to take you from welcome drinks through mains, to a cheese course and dessert. Serve it chilled to 8-10°C in tulip-shaped, white wine glasses.

C E LE BRAT IO N TA BLE

CRUSTED LAMB RIBS WITH ANCHOVY-AND-PARSLEY SALSA

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5 ways to guarantee hasslefree hosting Be organised, plan ahead, and banish the pre-party jitters 1 COOK IN ADVANCE by choosing recipes that incorporate some elements that can be made ahead. On our menu, the cherry sauce, chocolate candles, vanilla soft serve and praline dust can be made the day before, along with the tahini paste and dressings. Most salads can be assembled a few hours in advance, with ﬁnal warm ingredients such as prawns added right at the end. 2 PLAN YOUR SERVEWARE

by gathering your utensils, platters, plates, glasses and table linen in advance to check that you have everything you need. Feel free to mix and match diﬀerent textures – a combo of wooden boards, marble, ceramics and stoneware always looks great. 3 POSITION THE SERVING TABLE away from walls and other

furniture so that guests can easily access it from all sides.

4 PUT DRESSINGS AND CONDIMENTS in jars and dishes so

that guests can help themselves. Group them together on a tray or platter to prevent drips and splashes. 5 SET UP SEPARATE DRINKS AND DESSERT STATIONS,

including glasses, serving bowls and spoons, where everyone can serve themselves (less running between the kitchen and dining area for you). Start the party with a cocktail for everyone (see page 88 for ideas) and make sure there’s a good bubbly and a versatile red and white wine for the meal (ﬁnd inspiration on page 58). Dessert options including ice cream, chocolate and something fruity, plus a variety of toppings guests can add themselves, will keep them all happy.

3 Gently fold over the baking paper and

shape the chocolate into a cigar shape. 4 Place the chocolate into the freezer and allow to set slightly. 5 Remove from the freezer before completely set and shape to your desired thickness. Return to the freezer and allow to set completely. 6 Remove the candles from the freezer. Warm the tip of a metal skewer and make a small hole in the top of each candle, just big enough for the bay leaf stem to it. 7 Secure the leaves onto the candles using more melted chocolate. 8 The

candles can be displayed on a plate using melted chocolate to secure them. Cook’s note: Place extra melted chocolate in a piping bag to create drip efects down the length of the candles. WINE: Woolworths Cape Sweet Red 2017

PRAWN SALAD WITH BLACK SESAME TAHINI Serves 6 EASY Preparation: 20 minutes For the tahini: black sesame seeds 100 g, toasted sesame oil 1 T sea salt, to taste For the dressing: ish sauce 3 T rice vinegar 8 T palm sugar 4 t limes 3, juiced Woolworths bulk baby herb leaves 2 x 60 g packets prawns 36, cleaned and steamed fresh coconut 100 g, grated peanuts 100 g, toasted 1 To make the tahini paste, place all the

ingredients except the salt in a blender and blend until smooth, then season to taste. 2 To make the dressing, whisk together all the ingredients and the tahini. 3 Toss the salad leaves in the dressing, then pile the prawns onto a plate and top with the leaves. Garnish with the coconut and peanuts. CARB-CONSCIOUS, DAIRY-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE WINE: Jordan Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2017

VANILLA SOFT SERVE WITH PRALINE DUST Serves 4 to 6 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 20 minutes, plus freezing time Cooking: 10 minutes cream 3 cups milk 1 cup icing sugar 130 g, sifted vanilla paste 1 t

DESSERT FOR ALL Home-made vanilla soft serve is a great recipe to have in your party arsenal. Serve in a large bowl so everyone can help themselves, or pipe individual portions into small bowls and freeze until ready to serve for a special touch.

For the praline dust: caster sugar 1 cup vanilla paste 2 T 1 Whisk the cream, milk, icing sugar and vanilla paste together. 2 Place the mixture

into an ice-cream machine and process until the consistency of soft serve. 3 Place into a piping bag itted with a large star nozzle and freeze. 4 To make the praline, place the sugar into a heavy-based saucepan and melt until golden. Stir in the vanilla paste, then pour onto a sheet of baking paper. Allow the sugar to cool and harden. Beat using a rolling pin until it forms a light dust with crystal-like pieces. 5 Thaw the ice cream slightly, then pipe into dishes and sprinkle over the praline dust. WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE WINE: Woolworths Weltevrede Vanilla Chardonnay 2018

ASPARAGUS WITH NECTARINES, GOAT’S CHEESE AND TRUFFLE VINAIGRETTE Serves 6 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 20 minutes For the vinaigrette, mix: Dijon mustard 1 t lemon juice 2 T Woolworths trule oil 3 T freshly ground green peppercorns, to taste sea salt, to taste asparagus spears 24, blanched white-lesh nectarines 3, cut into wedges Chavroux smooth goat’s cheese 2 x 150 g 1 Place the asparagus and nectarines

onto a serving platter and drizzle with the vinaigrette. 2 Serve with the goat’s cheese. CARB-CONSCIOUS, FAT-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE WINE: Iona Sauvignon Blanc 2017

MAKE EDIBLE CANDLES

CHOCOLATE CANDLES

You only need three ingredients – and just a little patience – to make these chocolate “candles” as statement décor pieces for your dessert table. Bonus: your guests can break them after the meal to enjoy with coﬀee.

PRAWN SALAD WITH BLACK SESAME TAHINI

ASPARAGUS WITH NECTARINES, GOAT’S

VANILLA SOFT SERVE

CHEESE AND TRUFFLE

WITH PRALINE DUST

VINAIGRETTE

R27 PER SERVING

R40 PER SERVING

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PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREA VAN DER SPUY RECIPES AND PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT KATE FERREIRA

LITCHI-ANDROSE FAUX FIZZ

VANILLA VODKA PASSION

PARTY SPIRIT Start the Whatsapp group, download the playlist and stock your drinks cabinet – the party’s at your house. Make ours a bottomless tequila-and-rosé punch,

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NEGRONI-STYLE SCORCHED GRAPEFRUIT SMOKE

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glasses, add a drop of rose-water, and top up with sparkling wine. Garnish with rose petals.

VANILLA VODKA PASSION WHISKY BRU

“This is a wonderfully refreshing drink to mark the start of summer. I enjoy it with Asian-inspired food.” Makes 1 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 10 minutes dehydrated blueberry powder, to garnish granadilla 1, halved Woolworths lemongrass-lavoured syrup 1 T vanilla vodka 2 tots soda water, for serving 1 Moisten the rim of a cocktail glass with

sugar water or a wedge of lime, then dip into the dehydrated blueberry powder. 2 Mix half the granadilla pulp with the lemongrass syrup, then pour into the prepared glass. Add the vanilla vodka and stir gently, then add crushed ice. 3 Top up with soda water and garnish with the remaining grandilla half. Cook’s note: Find dehydrated blueberry powder at specialty food stores.

MIX YOUR DRINKS Shaken or stirred? The general rule is that cocktails made with juice, simple syrup, dairy, cream liqueurs or egg white should be shaken to create a frothy eﬀect and fully mix in the ﬂavours of the ingredients. Cocktails containing only spirits, such as martinis, just need a gentle mix and should rather be stirred.

NEGRONI-STYLE SCORCHED GRAPEFRUIT SMOKE “Put on a show by burning a sprig of fresh rosemary or thyme when you serve this cocktail. Who doesn’t love a little drama on a Saturday night?” Makes 2 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 10 minutes

LITCHI-AND-ROSE FAUX FIZZ “Beautiful to look at, even better to drink. You won’t even miss the alcohol, but if you do, use real sparkling wine instead. Delicious with freshly shucked oysters.” Makes 6 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 20 minutes

litchis 1 x 565 g can rose-water a few drops Woolworths non-alcoholic sparkling wine, to taste rose petals, to garnish 1 Drain the litchis and reserve ½ cup

syrup. Blend the litchis with the reserved syrup to make a smooth purée. Strain to remove the pulp. 2 Divide between

ruby grapefruit 2–3, juiced gin 4 tots Campari 2 tots rosemary 2 sprigs, to garnish

Shake all the ingredients in a shaker with ice cubes. Pour into chilled tumblers with oversized ice blocks and garnish with a slice of grapefruit and a sprig of rosemary. Light the rosemary as you serve the cocktail.

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Your basic mixology kit Buy a few basic bar accessories and start mixing like a pro. Here’s what you need and why COCKTAIL SPOON: A long

mixing spoon used to stir and layer drinks in jugs or glasses. JIGGER: This hourglass-shaped,

double-sided tool is used to measure diﬀerent quantities of spirits and mixers (usually in tots). MUDDLER: Use it like a pestle

to mash herbs, spices and fruit to release their ﬂavours. STRAINER: It’s placed over the RAINBOW PEPPERCORN AND BASIL-SPICED GIN CLOUD

Country Road carafe, R249.

glass to remove large pieces of ice and solid ingredients like mint leaves and fruit pieces. SHAKER: Use it to shake

alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails (see box opposite) to aerate them, with ice added for quick cooling.

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“I LOVE A GOOD NIGHT OUT AT HOME. PLAN A FEW EASY SNACKS, SET UP YOUR DRINKS TABLE AND MIX SOME SHOWSTOPPING COCKTAILS AS THE NIGHT UNFOLDS” – HANNAH LEWRY

92 WHY ADD EGG WHITES? If you want to make a rich, silky cocktail with a foam cap, egg whites are your best friend (you could also experiment with aquafaba, see our gin cloud recipe opposite). Egg whites won’t aﬀect the smell or aroma of your drink, but have a big impact on texture.

CALVADOS-AND-BLUEBERRY HAZE

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WHISKY BRU “I think this is a fabulous little number for the whisky fans in the crowd.”

BRANDY-SPIKED PIÑA COLADA

Makes 4 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 5 minutes, plus steeping time good-quality Earl Grey tea leaves 1 T whisky 4 tots fresh lemon or orange juice, to taste dehydrated cirtus slices, to garnish 1 Steep the tea leaves in 4 cups boiled

water, then set aside to infuse and cool completely. 2 Divide the whisky between 4 chilled tumblers with large ice cubes, then top up with the tea. Add a squeeze of lemon or orange juice. Garnish with deydrated citrus slices.

RAINBOW PEPPERCORN AND BASIL-SPICED GIN CLOUD

“I love the subtle spice and herb ﬂavours of this gin cocktail. Try using chickpea brine (aquafaba) instead of egg whites. It works, I promise.” Makes 2 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 10 minutes Cooking: 10 minutes For the pink pepper-and-basil syrup: sugar 4 T water ½ cup basil leaves 10 rainbow peppercorns 2 T, plus extra to garnish pink pepper-and-basil syrup 2 T Woolworths ClemenGold juice 4 T chickpea brine 2 T, strained gin 4 tots micro basil leaves, to garnish

The award-winning mixologist says... Marshall Siavash from Cause Effect Cocktail Kitchen in Cape Town talks spring/summer drinks trends, plus the party advice he gives his friends DRINK FOR THE SEASON Balmier weather means leaving the warming, spicy drinks

of winter behind for refreshing cocktails starring local herbs and fruit. 1 To make the syrup, simmer all the

MAKE GIN-BASED PUNCH Gin’s still big, so when you’re having people over, make things easy

ingredients until reduced and slightly thickened, crushing the basil and peppercorns to release their lavours. Cool and strain. 2 Shake all the cocktail ingredients except the micro basil leaves with a few ice blocks in a shaker. Double strain into a chilled glass, allow

by placing an old-school punch bowl on the table containing a mix of fruit, juice, tea and gin. EXPERIMENT WITH FLAVOUR Use a perfume atomiser (for kitchen use only) to spritz a mist

of bitters or aromatics over a glass to add a hint of aroma and ﬂavour without being overpowering. TRY SOMETHING NEW You don’t have to serve drinks in glasses. Think about using mugs, vases,

bowls, beakers, jugs and ceramics to suit your drink of choice. Would you have guessed the “glasses” on page 89 are tealight holders (R99.95 each) from Woolworths? (Find Insta inspiration at @CauseEﬀectBar.)

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“MAKING YOUR OWN COCKTAILS IS A REALLY COST-EFFECTIVE WAY TO ENTERTAIN. STOCK YOUR CUPBOARDS WITH THE BASICS AND YOU’RE ALL SET” – HANNAH LEWRY Cook’s note: Store leftover syrup in an

airtight container or bottle in the fridge.

BRANDY-SPIKED PIÑA COLADA “The classic version of this tropical island sipper is made with rum. Add two tots of brandy for extra kick. Because why not?” Makes 1 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 10 minutes brandy 2 tots rum ½ tot pineapple juice 1⁄3 cup coconut cream 2–3 T

Shake all the ingredients in a shaker with ice. Pour into a chilled glass over crushed ice and garnish with pineapple leaves. Cook’s note: Blend with more ice or add a scoop of coconut ice cream for a frosty version.

TEQUILA-AND-STRAWBERRY ROSÉ PUNCH

CALVADOS-ANDBLUEBERRY HAZE “Apple brandy, tequila and blueberries make a heady combination that looks as gorgeous as it tastes.” Makes 1 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 10 minutes Cooking: 10 minutes For the blueberry syrup: sugar 4 T water ½ cup frozen blueberries 200 g ice fridge-cold free-range egg white 4 T blueberry syrup ¼ cup

SET UP A DRINKS STATION Your guests can help themselves from a drinks table set up with cordials (use jugs, jars, cloches and even beautiful vases); a big bowl of punch, fennel, mint and other greenery for garnishes; plus a frozen centrepiece that can be bashed into shards for the ice bucket (make it with water, leftover syrup and strained fruit pieces from your pre-party cocktail experiments).

honey 1 T lime 1, juiced Calvados 2 T tequila 1 T 1 To make the blueberry syrup, simmer all

the ingredients until reduced and slightly thickened, about 10 minutes, mashing the berries. Cool and strain. 2 Shake the egg white with a few blocks of ice in a shaker. Add the remaining ingredients and shake again. Strain into a chilled glass and allow the foam to settle before serving.

TEQUILA-ANDSTRAWBERRY ROSÉ PUNCH “Welcome drinks don’t have to be a hassle to serve – just mix up a big bowl of punch to get the party started.” Makes 6 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 10 minutes lemon 1, juiced honey 1 T tequila 6 tots rosé wine 1 x 750 ml bottle strawberries 200 g, chopped pink Himalayan salt, to garnish

Place all the ingredients except the strawberries and salt into a large punch bowl and stir. Serve with ice cubes and strawberries in pink salt-rimmed glasses.

EXTRA SOURCES SAVEUR.COM; SERIOUSEATS.COM

the foam to settle and garnish with pink peppercorns and micro basil. Cook’s note: Store leftover syrup in an airtight container or bottle in the fridge.

BE ST E VE R: SHA RI N G FO O D

The best way to please the masses (a.k.a. a lunch party of eight) is with Phillippa Cheiﬁtz’s easy Latin American-inspired feast. Serve the paella, the tostadas and coffee-cream jellies separately (cue applause), or spread them all out on the table for a casual celebration with friends

MEXICAN-STYLE CHORIZO AND SEAFOOD PAELLA

GREEN SALAD WITH ROAST WALNUTS AND AVOCADO OIL DRESSING

PHOTOGRAPHS TOBY MURPHY PRODUCTION BRITA DU PLESSIS RECIPES PHILLIPPA CHEIFITZ FOOD ASSISTANT MARCELLE VAN ROOYEN

BE ST E VE R: SHA RI N G FO O D

TOSTADAS WITH BLACK BEAN PÂTÉ

BE ST E VE R: SHA RI N G FOO D

How to entertain the easy way Having friends and family around doesn’t mean you’ll have to spend hours in the kitchen before the irst knock at your front door. Here’s how Phillippa Cheiitz keeps things simple and memorable 1. COOK WHAT YOU KNOW I rarely try a new dish for the irst time when a group of people are coming

over. Rather, choose recipes you know and love – simple everyday food – such as paella, slow-roasted lamb or a knockout pie – made in larger quantities for everyone to share around the table. 2. DON’T FORGET THE SNACKS Whet their appetites with oferings such as spiced roasted nuts, assorted olives and crisp vegetables. Nibbles before the main event shouldn’t be too illing, but should take

the edge of before everyone sits down to your feaast. 3. TOP UP THE DRINKS Have a rosé, a light, vversatile red and an easy-drin nking white wine on stand d-by to serve with the meal after your welcome drink. I usu ually make a Campari spritzer or o simply ofer sparkling water with bitters when people e arrive. Always with lots of ice.

I’m all for taking the easy route with a tried-and-tested dessert from your favourite neighbourhood supplier. A cheese platter featuring a Brie, a blue and an aged Gouda served with a dessert wine is also a great choice.

4. BUY DESSERT T If you’re time-presseed,

CEVICHE-STYLE SHAVED SUMMER SQUASH

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MEXICAN-STYLE CHORIZOAND-SEAFOOD PAELLA “A Mexican paella is spicier and soupier than a Spanish version. It doesn’t use saﬀron, and uses fresh chorizo and beer instead of wine. Though parboiled white rice is usually used, I’ve stuck to risotto rice, which I love.” Serves 8 EASY Preparation: 30 minutes Cooking: 1 hour

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chorizo 400 g olive oil 4 T medium onions 2, thinly sliced garlic 3 cloves, crushed sweet peppers 3, thinly sliced risotto rice 400 g beer 1 cup whole peeled tomatoes 1 x 400 g can chicken, ish or vegetable stock 4 cups cayenne pepper ½ t tightly closed fresh mussels 1 kg, cleaned medium prawns 300–400 g, deveined Woolworths spicy calamari rings 1 x 170 g punnet sugar snap peas 80 g baby corn 80 g fresh coriander, to garnish

1 In a large paella pan or suitable large, heavy pan, brown the chorizo in 1 T olive oil, then remove and set aside. 2 Reduce the heat and pour a thin ilm of olive oil into the pan. Add the onions and cook gently until softened. Stir in the garlic. Add the peppers and cook gently until softened, adding more oil if necessary. 3 Add the rice and stir for a few minutes, then pour in the beer and stir until absorbed. 4 Blend the tomatoes with 2 cups stock. Pour in 1½ cups of this stock, then bring to a bubble. Add the cayenne pepper and stir until the liquid has been absorbed. Pour in the remaining tomato stock. 5 Stir in the chorizo and cook for 5 minutes, stirring, adding more stock if necessary. Add the mussels and cook, covered, for 10 minutes or until the mussels have started to open. 6 Add the prawns, calamari, peas and corn. Pour in more stock. 7 Cover and cook for a further 5 minutes, or until all is just cooked and the mussels have opened (discard any that do not open). Add more stock at any stage

if necessary. Check the seasoning and add salt if needed. Serve hot, or at room temperature, garnished with coriander. HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, DAIRY-FREE WINE: Woolworths Signature Series Danie de Wet Chardonnay 2017

GREEN SALAD WITH ROAST WALNUTS AND AVOCADO OIL DRESSING “A simple green salad combining crunchy and creamy textures with a ﬂavourful dressing is a must on any sharing table.” Serves 8 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 20 minutes Cooking: 10 minutes walnuts 50 g Romaine lettuce hearts 2–3 irm, ripe Hass avocados 1–2, thinly sliced asparagus tips 100 g, steamed For the dressing, mix: sherry vinegar 2 T avocado oil 1⁄3 cup garlic 1 clove, crushed sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Preheat the oven to 160°C. Roast the walnuts for 10 minutes, then break roughly. Arrange the salad on a platter, top with the walnuts and spoon over the dressing. CARB-CONSCIOUS, FAT-CONSCIOUS, DAIRY-FREE, MEAT-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE WINE: Woolworths Ken Forrester Longmarket Chenin Blanc 2018

TOSTADAS WITH BLACK BEAN PÂTÉ “To make tostadas (which means ‘toasted’), crisp up corn tortillas in a little vegetable oil. I like to top them with a black bean pâté.” Serves 8 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 30 minutes Cooking: 20 minutes vegetable oil, for frying fresh corn tortillas 18

BE ST E VE R: SHA RI NG FO O D

COFFEE-CREAM JELLIES WITH MERINGUE SHARDS

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“I LIKE A GENEROUS MAIN COURSE AND A TINY DESSERT LIKE THESE PANNA COTTAS – BUT BY ALL MEANS, DOUBLE UP IF YOU HAVE A BIG SWEET TOOTH”

BE ST E VE R: SHA RI N G FO O D

For the black bean pâté: black beans 1 x 400 g can olive oil 2 T garlic 1 clove, inely chopped ground cumin ½ t vegetable stock ½ cup feta 100 g, crumbled Woolworths Monterey Jack cheese 100 g, grated (or torn if sliced) freshly squeezed lime juice 1 T smoked paprika ½ t sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste chilli powder, to taste (optional) radishes 4–5, thinly sliced, to garnish spring onions 1–2, shredded, to garnish inely chopped red chilli, to garnish (optional) thick sour cream, for serving lime wedges, for serving

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1 Heat the oil in in a medium-sized saucepan. Fry the tortillas on both sides until golden and crisp, then drain on kitchen paper. 2 To make the black bean pâté, rinse the beans and drain well. Gently heat the olive oil and garlic in a suitable pan, but don’t let it brown. Stir in the cumin, then add the beans and stock. Simmer for about 5 minutes, then mash coarsely using a potato masher. 3 Allow to cool, then add the cheeses and lime juice. Mash with the potato masher, then blend until fairly smooth and slightly textured. Season to taste and turn into a shallow bowl. Swirl a deep groove, then ill with thick sour cream. Add the radishes and shreds of onion. Serve at room temperature. 4 To serve, pile the pâté onto the tortillas, garnishing with the radishes, spring onion and chilli. Add sour cream and a squeeze of lime. Try adding some of the lightly pickled vegetables or a lettuce leaf and slice of avo from the salad. MEAT-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE WINE: Woolworths Beyerskloof Pinotage 2017

CEVICHE-STYLE SUMMER SQUASH “Forego the usual raw ﬁsh that’s used to make ceviche and rather marinate marrows and gem squash in a zesty, spicy dressing for a versatile side that goes well with meaty and seafood dishes.” Serves 8

EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 30 minutes mixed marrows 400 g For the dressing, mix: mini Rosa tomatoes 100 g, inely chopped baby salad onions 6, inely chopped fresh red chilli 1, seeded and inely chopped olive oil 4 T freshly squeezed lime juice 4 T white wine vinegar 1 T coriander 1 T inely chopped sea salt, to taste

1 Use a mandolin to shave the marrows paperthin. Slice the baby marrows lengthways, and the patty pans and baby gem squash across. Pile onto a platter. 2 Spoon over the dressing and toss lightly. Serve at room temperature or chill before serving. CARB-CONSCIOUS, FAT-CONSCIOUS, DAIRY-FREE, MEAT-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE WINE: Woolworths Delaire Cape Rock Sauvignon Blanc 2017

COFFEE-CREAM JELLIES WITH MERINGUE SHARDS “I like a generous main course and a tiny dessert such as these panna cottas – but by all means, double up if you have a sweet tooth.” Serves 8 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 20 minutes, plus overnight chilling time Cooking: 2 hours gelatine leaves 4, soaked hot, strong espresso 1½ cups brown sugar 70 g cofee liqueur ¼ cup cream ½ cup For the meringue shards: free-range egg whites 2 cream of tartar a pinch sugar 100 g white wine vinegar ½ t

1 Squeeze the excess water out of the gelatine leaves and stir into ½ cup cofee until dissolved. Add the remaining cofee. 2 Add the sugar and stir until dissolved, then mix in the liqueur and cream. Ladle into 8 short, espresso-sized glasses and chill for a few hours or overnight until set. Serve with the meringue shards. 3 To make the meringue shards, preheat the oven to 110°C. Beat the egg whites with the cream of tartar until soft peaks form. Gradually beat in the sugar, then beat in the vinegar. Continue beating until very stif and glossy. 4 Line a large baking pan with baking paper. Use a spatula to thinly spread the meringue onto the baking paper. Bake for 2 hours, then turn of the heat and leave to cool and crisp. Break into large shards. FAT-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE WINE: Woolworths Spier Natural Sweet White Blend 2018

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PAPPARDELLE WITH ROSE HARISSA, BLACK OLIVES AND CAPERS

PHOTOGRAPHS JONATHAN LOVEKIN RECIPES YOTAM OTTOLENGHI, WITH TARA WIGLEY AND ESME HOWARTH INTERVIEW KATE WILSON

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THE OTTOLENGHI EFFECT 105

No chef can coax drama out of vegetables – or use as many exotic ingredients in a single dish – quite like Yotam Ottolenghi. But with his latest book, Simple, he brings his signature style to pared-down plates that might just change the way you eat

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Want to feed a crowd? Make an Ottolenghi-style feast.

106 B Y C E L E B R I T Y chef standards, Ottolenghi’s repertoire is modest: he’s been cooking for 15 years and “only” has four delis, two restaurants and seven books to his name. But, thanks, in part, to his column in The Guardian “The New Vegetarian”, which began in 2006, his inluence far exceeds the sum of these parts. Known among the food literati as “the chef who made veggies cool”, Ottolenghi‘s name is often accompanied by an eye-roll and a reference to obscure ingredients (harissa, tahini, sumac), but it has also become a happy household adjective for heavily spiced, veg-focused dishes that are designed to be shared. Born in Jerusalem, Yotam is of ItalianGerman Jewish descent, which explains the myriad cultural traditions that infuse his recipes. His latest book, Simple, is no exception, featuring dishes that promise the same “drama in the mouth” typical of all his food, just with fewer ingredients. He was famously accepted into the “genius” academic programme at Tel Aviv University, from which he graduated with a Masters degree before swapping cooking for academia. His books have now sold over a million copies collectively, and without ever having set out to do it, he has joined the ranks of the pioneering chefs who have changed the way we eat.

“When people say Ottolenghi I think they mean vegetableheavy cusine, which is bold in lavour – with a lot of herbs and spices. They mean something that doesn’t necessarily belong to one food tradition but takes inspiration from diferent parts of the world, while still focused on the food of the Middle East and the Mediterranean. I also think they mean food that is not fussy, but also thoughtful – there’s a lot of thought that goes into a dish; it’s very vibrant in terms of colours and textures and contrasts. When I was growing up in Israel, vegetables were often the centre of the meal. So for me it’s a very natural way to eat. I didn’t set out to make it [my sole purpose]. It’s also because I am aware that people are keen to focus their diets on plants. So it’s both considerations, both what people want and also what I like to do and the way I grew up eating and still eat to this day. Almost all my memories of growing up are food-related. Maybe that’s why I ended up in food, I can always remember things that are food-related. My paternal grandmother was a great Italian cook and I still remember her semolina dumplings,

which I inally managed to sneak into one of my books. For years I tried to replicate them and I think some lavours are impossible to replicate, so still when I eat them I don’t think they are half as good as hers.

Nothing tastes as it did in childhood, they are such strong memories that are hard to beat. Growing up in Jerusalem, young school children could still walk home without

“IT’S QUITE TELLING ABOUT ME THAT I AM MORE OF A CAKE PERSON THAN A FOOTBALL PERSON” anybody worrying. It was a diferent time. So I was only about ten or 11 and we would walk home from school and stop at the falafel stand, get our lunch, eat it along the way and arrive home at 1 or 2 o’clock. They would make the pita pockets fresh with freshly fried falafel and, ah, it was so good.

My favourite meal in Cape Town was at Chefs Warehouse. My god, that was a fantastic meal. Liam Tomlin

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WHOLE-ROASTED CELERIAC WITH CORIANDER SEED OIL

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HOT CHARRED CHERRY TOMATOES WITH COLD YOGHURT

For kids, it’s not about ﬂavour, it’s about the power struggle. I think the idea is not to fuss too much, just put it there and give them time. People often say they cook my recipes for things like chargrilled broccoli or caulilower or caulilower fritters or a bean salad from the irst book with hazelnuts and orange. Then there are dishes like tray bakes – chicken with za’atar and lemon or with hazelnut and rose-water – that are pretty straightforward, but really strong on lavours.

“PEOPLE SHOULD EAT WHAT THEY LIKE TO EAT. THE NUMBER ONE CONSIDERATION IS THE AMOUNT OF JOY YOU GET FROM A MEAL”

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is a great chef. We had a selection of small dishes – one of them was a beautiful mackerel – but everything was sensational, such strong lavours, a bit of curry going on … Really one of the best meals I’ve had all year. I took one of Liam’s books home with me to remind me of that meal. I was on a short break, a beach holiday away from London in the late winter, which was fantastic. We also had great meals at Bread & Wine in Franschhoek and at The Black Sheep in Kloof Street.

I’m not a big sports fan or football fan, but everyone was watching [England play in the semiinal] so I was watching, but while I was watching I was thinking about cakes. It’s quite telling about me that I’m more of a cake person than a football person. I’m not a massive visitor to very high-end restaurants. I think life is too short. I don’t want to spend six hours in a restaurant eating 18 courses and not remember any of them. I’m fascinated

by that food but I don’t end up eating it very often because I always ind I am disappointed. I end up enjoying simpler restaurants much more.

My memory sucks, so I take little notes on where I’ve eaten. I travel less than I used to. I have two young kids now so it’s more complicated to travel. Those long, food-focused holidays are a lot more diicult with kids. The one thing I make for the children very often is mejadra – rice with lentils and fried onions. It was in the book Jerusalem, but over the years I have published a few recipes of the same ilk. It’s really delicious served with cold yoghurt and they love it. Kids like simple lavours. They always want a plate of pasta if they can help it, but if you give them mejadra they get the same level of joy as from pasta, but it’s a bit more interesting. Because they are like most kids, they prefer carbohydrates to vegetables.

There is a parpadelle pasta in the book that delivers a lot of ﬂavour with minimal effort. It does everything people would associate with Ottolenghi cooking but really simply and quickly. It’s a pasta with harissa, capers and olives – something you can create in 20 minutes. You sauté the onions and add the harissa and tomatoes and then you are more or less done with things that you already have in the fridge, but it’s still in line with my kind of food – strong lavours, spicy and hot, chilled by yoghurt, mixing an Italian tradition with a North African tradition. People often ask “Why England?” But I don’t know that [my style of food] would have worked in a country where there was a very strong national pride in their own food. Maybe they wouldn’t have been so happy to take what I have to ofer. The Brits have always been importers of culture and food and anything else they’ve come across all over their empire when it was still there. There is a tradition of being very open to foreign cusine. Dishes like kedgeree and other Indian curries, for example, and then later, European traditions of cooking French and Italian.

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Something I’ve been cooking a lot is a quick custard served with roasted strawberries and rhubarb. People love it. I made it for some friends over the weekend and it’s just ive or six ingredients to make the custard, and then the fruit. You need to set the custard, but it really is something you can knock out in 20 minutes and it feels like a lot of efort has gone into it in terms of the result. So those two – the pasta and the dessert – are very typical of the book. They may not be the absolute simplest, but they give you the most for your time and money. When you open a new restaurant there are always problems. It takes a few months to settle. At our new restaurant, Rovi, it’s still a very vegetable-focused menu, but it’s a more pared-down attitude to vegetables. We’ve always grilled a lot, but it’s the irst time we’ve had a dedicated woodired grill. So we’re doing more stuf from the grill to the plate, lots of seasonal vegetables. At the moment we have peas and broad beans and all sorts of string

OTTOLENGHI’S FOOD HEROES Nigella Lawson (UK) “She’s always been about putting the focus on the joy and on the food in real life, rather than on other lofty ideas. It’s a light-hearted approach.” Alice Waters and the Chez Panisse alumni (US) “Alice started a way of thinking about food that has shaped the way we think about everything.” Samin Nosrat (US) “She wrote Salt Fat Acid Heat, which is a really fun book to read, very informative.” Stephanie Alexander (Australia) “She has written a whole encyclopedia on cooking, The Cook’s Companion, which is a really useful book to have. I also like her thoughtfulness when it comes to creating dishes and meals. She’s very clever. Nigel Slater (UK) “He is a great writer who evokes emotions and places really beautifully.”

beans, so those literally go on the grill and are inished of with garlic and olive oil and chilli, so very lightly treated.

In South Africa you have been cooking with ﬁre for a very long time, but in London and other big cities, I see more and more cooking on open ire. Really it’s nothing new for me, because we’ve been doing a lot of it, but now it feels like there is more openness to experience that in restaurants. So we’ve really put it in the centre – the [wood-ired oven] is the focal point of the restaurant. I’ve never supported using vegetables too much out of their natural season. So, in the new book, for spring there is a recipe for fresh asparagus with capers and laked almonds that is a really beautiful simple dish, and Tenderstem broccoli with a teriyaki-style sauce with peanuts and orange, very lavoursome, super quick to make and absolutely delicious. Perfect for spring. People should eat what they like to eat. The number one consideration is the amount of joy and satisfaction you get from a meal. I’ve never been a purist and I’ve never been a preacher. I think it’s good to eat vegetables because they are so great, because of their own merits, not for any other reason. And once someone has experienced a good way with vegetables – including things like seeds, grains and legumes – there really isn’t a need to eat that much meat or ish. You can easily eat way less of it, which is the right thing to do in terms of how we think about the future and sustainability. Change is a big word. The way people eat has changed, many people have changed their diets and if I have inluenced it, that’s a great thing. But for me it has just been about spreading the word. It’s such a shame not to be able to enjoy great ingredients and get the most out of them, and if you can get people to catch your bug and enjoy grilling butternut and dousing it with lemon-infused oil and conit garlic and harissa and all those wonderful things that I use, then that’s great. So I love the idea that something I cook becomes a staple for others. I can’t think of anything better.”

PAPPARDELLE WITH ROSE HARISSA, BLACK OLIVES AND CAPERS “Pappare means ‘to gobble up’ in Italian, which is the destiny of this dish. I like it spicy, but the quantity of harissa can easily be reduced. Make the sauce three days ahead if you like and keep in the fridge until needed.” Serves 4 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 20 minutes Cooking: 45 minutes olive oil 2 T large onion 1 (220 g), thinly sliced rose (or regular) harissa 3 T (or 50% more or less, depending on variety) cherry tomatoes 400 g, halved pitted Kalamata olives 55 g, torn in half baby capers 20 g salt parsley 15 g, roughly chopped dried pappardelle pasta (or another wide, ﬂat pasta) 500 g Greek-style or full-cream yoghurt 120 g 1 Put the oil into a large sauté pan,

for which you have a lid, and place over a medium-high heat. Once hot, add the onion and fry for 8 minutes, stirring every once in a while, until soft and caramelised. 2 Add the harissa, tomatoes, olives, capers and ½ t salt and continue to fry for 3–4 minutes, stirring frequently, until the tomatoes start to break down. 3 Add ¾ cup plus 2 t water and stir through. Once boiling, reduce the heat to medium low, cover the pan and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the lid of the sauce and continue to cook for 4–5 minutes, until the sauce is thick and rich. Stir in 10 g parsley and set aside. 4 Meanwhile, ill a large pot with plenty of salted water and place on a high heat. Once boiling, add the pappardelle and cook according to the packet instructions, until al dente. Drain well. 5 Return the pasta to the pot along with the harissa sauce and a pinch of salt. Mix well, then divide between four shallow bowls. Serve hot, with a spoonful of yoghurt and a inal sprinkle of parsley. Cook’s note: Find a recipe for rose harissa at taste.co.za. FAT-CONSCIOUS, HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE WINE: Eagles’ Nest Shiraz 2015

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“I like to eat this as it is as a starter, cut into wedges and served with a squeeze of lemon or a dollop of crème fraîche, but you can serve it as a side to a pork chop or steak.” Serves 4 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 15 minutes Cooking: 3 hours large celeriac, hairy roots discarded (no need to trim or peel) 1 (1.2 kg), scrubbed clean olive oil 3 T, plus a little extra for drizzling coriander seeds 1½ t, lightly crushed sea salt lemon 1, cut into wedges, for serving 1 Preheat the oven to 170°C. 2 Pierce the

celeriac with a small sharp knife all over, about 20 times. Place the celeriac in a baking dish and rub generously with the

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oil, coriander seeds and 2 T salt. Roast for 2½–3 hours, basting every 30 minutes until the celeriac is soft all the way through and golden-brown on the outside. 3 Cut into wedges and serve with a wedge of lemon, a sprinkle of salt and a drizzle of oil. FAT-CONSCIOUS, HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, DAIRY-FREE, MEAT-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE WINE: Woolworths DMZ Chenin Blanc 2018

HOT CHARRED CHERRY TOMATOES WITH COLD YOGHURT “One of the beauties of this dish lies in the exciting contrast between the hot, juicy tomatoes and fridge-cold yoghurt, so make sure the tomatoes are straight out of the oven and the yoghurt is straight out of the fridge.” Serves four as a starter or meze EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 20 minutes Cooking: 30 minutes

cherry tomatoes 350 g olive oil 3 T cumin seeds ¾ t light brown sugar ½ t garlic 3 cloves, finely sliced thyme 3 sprigs fresh oregano 5 g (3 sprigs left whole and the rest picked), to serve lemon 1 (finely shave the skin of ½ to get 3 strips and finely grate the other ½ to get 1 t zest) extra thick Greek-style or full-cream yoghurt 350 g, fridge-cold Urfa chilli flakes 1 t (or ½ t regular chilli flakes) flaked sea salt and black pepper bread, for serving 1 Preheat the oven to 200°C. 2 Place the

tomatoes in a mixing bowl with the olive oil, cumin seeds, sugar, garlic, thyme, oregano sprigs, lemon strips, ½ t salt and a good grind of pepper. Mix to combine, then transfer to a baking tray just large enough to it all the tomatoes together snugly. 3 Roast for 20 minutes, until the tomatoes are beginning to blister and the liquid is bubbling. Turn the oven to the grill setting and grill for 6–8 minutes, until the tomatoes start to blacken on top. 4 While the tomatoes are roasting, combine the yoghurt with the lemon zest and ¼ t salt. Keep in the fridge until ready to serve. 5 Once the tomatoes are ready, spread the chilled yoghurt on a platter (with a lip) or in a wide, shallow bowl, creating a dip in it with the back of a spoon. Spoon over the tomatoes, with their juices, lemon skin, garlic and herbs, and inish with the picked oregano and chilli lakes. Serve with bread. FAT-CONSCIOUS WINE: Woolworths Villiera Longmarket Rosé 2018

WIN A CO PY Ottolengthi Simple should be your go-to manual for cooking easy, lavourful food to share with family and friends. To stand a chance to win one of three copies (available at good bookstores for R455), visit taste.co.za, or turn to page 126 for SMS entry instructions. Keyword: Ottolenghi

EXTRACTED FROM OTTOLENGHI SIMPLE BY YOTAM OTTOLENGHI (EBURY PRESS, R455) © YOTAM OTTOLENGHI 2018 PHOTOGRAPHY BY JONATHAN LOVEKIN

WHOLE-ROASTED CELERIAC WITH CORIANDER SEED OIL

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MUSTARDY CAULIFLOWER CHEESE “This is the ultimate comfort dish, looking for a roast chicken, sausages or a pan-fried steak. Veggie options also work well: hearty brown rice, for example, and a simple salad with a dollop of yoghurt and a wedge of lime.” Serves 4 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 25 minutes Cooking: 45 minutes–1 hour

SUMAC-ROASTED STRAWBERRIES WITH YOGHURT CREAM

large cauliflower 1 (700 g), broken into roughly 4 cm florets unsalted butter 30 g small onion 1 (120 g), finely diced cumin seeds 1½ t medium curry powder 1 t mustard powder 1 t green chillies 2, seeded and finely diced black mustard seeds ¾ t whipping cream ¾ cup, plus 2 t mature Cheddar 120 g, coarsely grated salt fresh white breadcrumbs 15 g parsley 5 g finely chopped 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. 2 Steam the

caulilower over boiling water for 5 minutes, until just softening. Remove and set aside to cool slightly. 3 Put the butter into a 24 cm round casserole pan or ovenproof dish of a similar size and place over a medium heat. Add the onion and sauté for 8 minutes, until soft and golden. 4 Add the cumin seeds, curry powder, mustard powder and chillies and cook for 4 minutes, stirring occasionally. 5 Add the mustard seeds, cook for a further minute, then pour in the cream. Add 100 g Cheddar and ½ t salt, and simmer for 2–3 minutes for the sauce to slightly thicken. Add the caulilower, stir gently, and simmer for a further minute before removing from the heat. 6 Place the remaining Cheddar in a bowl and add the breadcrumbs and parsley. Mix, then sprinkle over the caulilower. Wipe the top inside edge of the pan clean (with a spatula or cloth) – any cream there will burn – and place in the oven. 7 Bake for 8 minutes, until the sauce is bubbling and the caulilower is hot. Turn the grill to high and keep the pan underneath for 4 minutes, or until the top is golden and crisp. Keep an eye on it so that it does not burn. Remove from the grill and allow to cool a little – just for 5 minutes or so – before serving.

111 CARB-CONSCIOUS, HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE WINE: Woolworths Grangehurst Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

SUMAC-ROASTED STRAWBERRIES WITH YOGHURT CREAM “This is a good pudding to remember if you have overripe strawberries. Serve this as is or with shortbread. Thanks to Helen Graham.” Serves 6 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 20 minutes, plus 30 minutes’ straining time Cooking: 30 minutes Greek-style or full-cream yoghurt 900 g icing sugar 140 g salt whipping cream ½ cup lemon 1 (ﬁnely grate the zest to get 1 t, then juice to get 2 T) ripe strawberries 600 g, hulled and halved lengthways sumac 1½ T mint 10 g (half left as sprigs and the other half with leaves picked and ﬁnely shredded) vanilla pod 1, split and seeds scraped

1 Put the yoghurt into a bowl with half the

icing sugar and ¼ t salt. Mix, then transfer to a sieve lined with muslin (or a clean cloth) and set over a bowl. 2 Tie the muslin into a bundle with string, weight this down with a heavy bowl and refrigerate for 30 minutes. 3 Squeeze as much liquid out as possible, until you are left with about 550 g thickened yoghurt. Remove from the cloth – discarding any liquid – and transfer to a bowl. Stir in the cream and lemon zest and refrigerate until ready to use. 4 Meanwhile, roast the strawberries. Preheat the oven to 200°C. Toss the strawberries with the sumac, mint sprigs, vanilla pod and seeds, lemon juice, the remaining icing sugar and 5 T water. 5 Transfer to an ovenproof dish measuring about 30 x 20 cm. Roast for 20 minutes, tossing once halfway through, until soft and bubbling. Allow to cool to room temperature, then lift out and discard the mint and vanilla pod. Strain the roasting liquor into a jug. Pour 3 T of the juice into the yoghurt cream and gently fold it through so the cream is rippled. Set aside 3 T juice to serve. 6 To serve, spoon the rippled cream into bowls and spoon over the strawberries. Pour over the juices and top with torn mint. WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE WINE: Woolworths Villiera Brut Rosé NV

The guava, beetroot and hibiscus dessert on the menu at Grei restaurant at the Saxon hotel in Johannesburg.

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PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS AND ELSA YOUNG PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY TEXT MICHELLE COBURN

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Herbs and ďŹ&#x201A;owers go from supporting role to the stars of the show at Grei restaurant at the Saxon hotel in Sandhurst. Book your table and let chef Candice Philip take you on a culinary journey rich in seductive aromas, unexpected ďŹ&#x201A;avours and vivid colours

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Picture this. You’re ive years old and you love helping your mom and grandmothers in the kitchen, so you decide that one day you want to have your own restaurant. But as you get older, you think that cooking for a living isn’t really a job, is it? You should rather follow your guidance counsellor’s advice and study architecture or landscaping, because that’s where your creative strengths lie. But when you’re about to leave school and have inally settled on becoming an interior designer, your neighbour, who happens to be a chef at Gallagher Convention Centre, says he’s looking for an apprentice. So you give it a try for a month and see what happens. Fast-forward to 2018 and what’s happened is that after many years of hard work and learning from some of SA’s top chefs including David Higgs, plus a number of accolades along the way, you’re now heading up the inedining restaurant at one of the world’s top boutique hotels. You’ve chosen the name. You’ve had input into the decor and design. This is your kitchen. Your team. Your home away from home.

Now, what would you say to that girl growing up in Joburg all those years ago? (Cue Journey’s “Don’t Stop Believin’ ”.) “It still feels surreal,” says Candice Philip on a walk through the Saxon’s rooftop vegetable-and-herb garden, where many of the dishes on her menu have their beginnings. “I’ve been here for 13 years and I’ve had this vision in

“IT STILL FEELS SURREAL. I’VE BEEN HERE FOR 13 YEARS AND I’VE HAD THIS VISION IN MY HEAD FOR A LONG TIME” – CANDICE PHILIP my head for a long time, so when the hotel’s management asked me for my ideas on what should happen after Luke Dale Roberts X The Saxon closed earlier this year, I was ready.” What she wanted was to elevate herbs to be the stars of her dishes, showcasing their lavours more than what any other restaurant is currently doing, and taking it to a level she’s never done before.

Her idea was to create a six-course menu that diners could experience as an expertly led culinary journey abundant in aroma, lavour and colour. The backdrop to this multisensory experience had to be an interior reimagined in multiple tones of grey, against which the bold colours and detailed plating of her dishes would stand out. “I did some research and found out that ‘grei’ is a Portuguese word that, loosely translated, means ‘a society of people’. I liked that because the restaurant is a place where people gather around food, but the name obviously also refers to the neutral colour palette we’ve chosen.” It took just two weeks to transform the restaurant into a moody, understated, multi-textured area complete with fur-covered and beaded feature walls. Each table in the 32-seater space has a view of the open kitchen, where Candice and her team of ive create their edible works of art.

If you’ve ever had a moment when, cutlery poised over a perfectly plated dish, you’ve almost hesitated to take the irst mouthful because it might feel like

Clockwise from above left: Hibiscus petals destined for dessert; Wynand van Wyk plates up; duck, apricot and thyme; sprigs of herbs for the tables. Opposite: Greiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s team of chefs in the hotel garden, from left, Lebisa John Tau, Besele Moses Moloi, Candice Philip, Megan Melkie, Wynand van Wyk and Amy Stanley.

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irst time the awards have recognised the aesthetic value of a culinary item. Most of the herbs and vegetables used in the kitchen are picked daily from the hotel’s own garden, which is known for its organic and heirloom produce grown in partnership with Linda Galvad and Sought After Seedlings. “I’m not an oice chef,” says Candice, “so I’m in the kitchen all day with the rest of the guys. We prep everything we need, check bookings to see whether there are any regulars coming in, then get out into the garden. Seasonality is key and we regularly meet with the

Besele Moses Moloi preparing to make squid-ink pretzel for the langoustine, curry and bronze fennel dish.

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a transgression – the culinary equivalent of reaching out to touch an artwork in a museum, which will trigger alarms and bring security guards running – be warned that you’re in for plenty of such moments at Grei. You’ll ind yourself torn between just wanting to gaze endlessly at the sheer beauty of what’s been presented to you – to “eat with your eyes”, as Candice says – and wanting to surrender to the sometimes unexpected, always exquisite, lavour

combinations: king crab, broad bean and verbena; lamb, pumpkin and lovage; sweetbreads, smoked potato and liquorice; Beemster cheese, ginger and lavender; guava, beetroot and hibiscus. It’s no wonder that two years ago, the artistry of one of Candice’s creations – pea wasabi mousse: a combination of peas, asparagus, wasabi, lemon crème and parsnip fudge – earned her a nomination for Design Indaba’s Most Beautiful Object in South Africa, the

I WANT GREI’S GUESTS

to leave with a deep sense of satisfaction and the feeling that they have learnt something. Usually it’s a memory of a wine they’re not going to get out there. That’s why most of the wines on the degustation menu are available exclusively at the Saxon. For example, we took the whole lot of Kortpad Kaaptoe from Pieter Walser, so you’ll only taste it here. Thanks, Pieter!

THE SOMM SAYS...

OUR NON-ALCOHOLIC PAIRINGS are a team eﬀort.

The Saxon’s award-winning head sommelier, Lloyd Jusa, talks teamwork, wine trends and pairing tips

The menu is built around herbaceous ﬂavours, so Candice comes up with the base for a pairing by looking at the main

“IT’S NO WONDER THAT TWO YEARS AGO, THE ARTISTRY OF ONE OF CANDICE’S CREATIONS EARNED HER A NOMINATION FOR DESIGN INDABA’S MOST BEAUTIFUL OBJECT IN SOUTH AFRICA” Sought After team to discuss what we need, but it’s not as speciic as wanting something for a particular dish we’re planning. Things don’t always become available when you hope they will and they don’t always grow the way they’re supposed to. We also work closely with micro-vegetable growers PicoGreens, who are willing to grow veggies specially for us, so for example if we tell them we’re looking for corn shoots, they’ll tell us, yes sure, it’ll take seven days.”

ingredients in a dish. It’s then up to the beverage team to work some magic around that, infusing herbal ﬂavours into the ﬁnal beverage, and making sure that the result complements the food.

THE BIGGEST TREND IN THE WINE WORLD is the shift

ABOUT 90% OF OUR GUESTS sit back and let us do what

PLAY IT SAFE WHEN you’re choosing wine for a dinner party. Go for a lightly oaked Chardonnay. These wines are quite versatile and work for people who like whites. For reds, always grab something light to medium-bodied. Nothing overpowering or too tannic. I recommend a good Pinot Noir or less extracted Merlot – they can go with lightly textured dishes and are versatile.

we do. It’s like people come for theatre and they trust us to direct the orchestra. Occasionally someone says they want another recommendation and we always have an alternative as a detour, but most trust that the journey is taking them where they need to go.

to cleaner, fresher wines that represent a sense of place. If you try a Chenin from the Swartland you’ll recognise it, even if you’re drinking it in Rome.

J O BURG RE STAURA N T

CANDICE PHILIP QUICKFIRE Clockwise from top left: Lamb, pumpkin and lovage; sage potato crisps; king crab, broad bean and verbena is an excellent match with a glass of Kortpad Kaaptoe from the Swartland, says head sommelier Lloyd Jusa.

Carefully nurtured relationships are important to Candice, who has a reputation for always being cool, calm and focused – no rampant ego or iery temper here. She says it’s not only down to her temperament, but also because she and her staf, including sous chef Wynand van Wyk, know each other so well. “Wynie and I have worked together for about eight years and we’re a really cool team – it’s like a family unit. These are the people who stand with me and for me.” The hotel’s beverages team is also key to picking the perfect wine or non-alcoholic pairing for each dish on Grei’s three menus (main, vegetarian and pescatarian), but head sommelier Lloyd Jusa explains that Candice’s adventurous creations turned out to be a surprising challenge for him. “You have tried-and-tested wines that are universally known to go with certain foods but suddenly, when herbs occupy the leading role, the whole dynamic changes. I remember for the irst menu, I brought out my usual suspects – the wines I know go with lamb, for example – but I had to send 80% of them back because they completely fought with the food.” This meant Lloyd had to reach for some unusual varietals that aren’t wellknown in South Africa, one of which was Portuguese grape Fernão Pires.

“Swartland winemaker Pieter Walser of Blankbottle – I think the man is a complete genius – released his irst Fernão vintage, called Kortpad Kaaptoe, a few years ago. Bring this wine to the party with Candice’s verbena-infused crab dish and it accentuates the lavours perfectly. The dish retains its personality and the wine plays a supporting role, but ultimately, when you taste the two together, they uplift each other. For me, that’s a perfect pairing.” There might be some disagreement with the chefs about the inal wine choice though – everyone’s palate is diferent. “It’s a team efort,” says Lloyd. “We try four or ive diferent local and international wines, and sometimes there’s a bit of an argument because I have my favourites and the chefs have theirs. But at the end of the day we have to choose something that enhances the guest’s experience.” This is a team of people who clearly love what they do, and because they’ve put so much passion, expertise and creativity into crafting the ultimate food-and-wine experience, it’s their guests who win all the way. Inevitably, you will leave Grei feeling that the journey you’ve been on has really been quite an adventure, one that you will remember and talk about – maybe even dream about – for a long time to come. W saxon.co.za

ON THE CHALLENGES WOMEN FACE AS CHEFS …

It’s been a long journey and it hasn’t been easy for me. But at the same time we can’t always feel we’re on the back foot. It’s all about what you learn along the way and not giving up. ON MENTORS … I never pinpoint

one person because I’ve learnt from so many people. Of course, David Higgs and Luke Dale Roberts are among them. ON COOKBOOKS … When I was a trainee, everyone was going on about the Larousse and that I had to have it, so I spent my whole salary buying it one month. I still have it but I can’t say I’ve read the whole thing. I follow some international chefs but I don’t go into their books too much – I like ﬁnding inspiration but don’t ever want to copy. ON SPENDING A DAY IN THE KITCHEN OF ANY RESTAURANT IN THE WORLD…

I’ve always wanted to visit El Celler de can Roca in Catalonia [Restaurant magazine’s Best Restaurant in the World, 2018]. I’d love to watch the Roca brothers work. ON HAVING FRIENDS AND FAMILY COOK FOR HER …

People are often scared to have you over because they don’t want to be judged, but it’s really not like that. Chefs are normal people. I’m here to chill with you, so I don’t care what we’re eating. I don’t cook often at home but on a Sunday it’ll be roast chicken and salad or a vegetable bake. Really simple food. ON WORK-LIFE BALANCE …

I like to be outside so I’ll be in the garden or go hiking – there are lots of great trails in the Magaliesberg. I spend time with my family and I also paint occasionally. I have a couple of big canvases in my house but there hasn’t been much time for that lately!

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T R AVEL

ELBOURN : the insider’s guide

It’s the home of MasterChef and the coffee capital of Australia and, because a quarter of the city’s population is made up of immigrants, there are gastronomic inﬂuences from all over the world. South African Lori Cohen deciphers Melbourne’s foodie culture, one dish at a time

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The Yarra River, which snakes its way through the suburbs and city, was a major food source and meeting place for indigenous Australians in the past.

The bluestonecobbled Hosier Lane is lined with graffiti â&#x20AC;&#x201C; making it one of the most visited sites in Melbourne.

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PHOTOGRAPHS MANDY COUZENS AND LORI COHEN TEXT LORI COHEN

TRAVE L

SUBURBIA DOWN UNDER IS NOT WHAT I EXPECTED. It may not have Sydney’s Opera House or Perth’s sparkling beaches, but in the mornings Melbourne’s skies are illed with multi-hued parakeets and, at dusk, giant bats. And they’re often dotted with hot-air balloons. But it’s the food scene that has made it one of Australia’s favourite destinations. I could never have imagined living near a George Calombaris restaurant (his renowned Hellenic Republic is a local hotspot) or ordering some of the best dumplings I’ve ever tasted via Uber Eats. Here are 10 of my best experiences – no Michelin stars or celebrity chefs required.

HAUTE BRU RUNCH

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Chilli. Crab. Scramble. There can be little wrong with a city that considers it acceptable to consume crab for breakfast. How about a grilled prawn benny with your latte? Melburnians have embraced the art of brunching and an enthusiastic tribe of young chefs has responded with a plethora of slick-looking cafés that serve brunch all day. There’s no annoying no-eggs-after-11 rule. Evolved, right? In fact they’ve pretty much thrown out all the rules when it comes to brunching. From Brussels sprouts with dehydrated apple (and a poachie), to bubble and squeak with very Heston Blumenthal-like bubbles (also with a poachie), the morning meal in Melbourne is having a moment. (If you have any doubt, check out #yolkporn. Nailing the right consistency has become an art form.) Owner of Black Gold, Aisha Dzebilin (above right), churns out delicacies daily with her husband chef Azem (he of the chilli crab scramble fame). “The brunch scene has become like the dinner scene in Melbourne. The ingredients we use are the same as high-end dinner restaurants. We just reimagine them in a more breakfasty way,” she explains. And cofee? You simply can’t get a bad brew in Melbourne – I’ve tried and failed. Ask for a “magic”. It’s made with steamed milk poured over a double ristretto (a lower cafeine espresso shot), served in a small cup. Black Gold, 285 Lennox Street, Richmond; blackgoldest2016.com

2 GREEN GOLD If Australia could adopt a national fruit it would be the avocado. Smashed avo (mashed avo on toast to you and me) is considered a delicacy. Every brunch menu has its own fabulous interpretation of avo on it – Short Straw’s “avo art” with its kale powder, chickpea avocado hummus, pickled cucumber, peas and asparagus (bottom left) is the most bright and beautiful of them all. Soaring avo prices have sparked a crime wave of people stealing fruit from trees in nearby New Zealand. At $20 a pop for a smashed avo dish, the drain on the public’s purse strings has even set politicians’ tongues wagging and people are being encouraged to forego their daily ix and save for a deposit on a irst home instead. Even my favourite burger franchise, Grill’d, has done a switcheroo with the ingredient, turning it from the dipped into the dipper with their “avocado chips” – slivers of deep-fried crumbed avo. Simply yum. Short Straw, 743B Glenferrie Road, Hawthorn; shortstraw.com.au

TR AVEL

WORSHIPPING THE TACO

3 CROISSANTS WITH CHARACTER The suburb of Fitzroy has a rep for being a bit grungy, but its industrial buildings and hipster vibes mean that it’s also home to some of the edgiest eateries in the city. Lune Croissanterie operates from a “hole in the wall” in a quiet side street, but on weekends it throws open its warehouse doors to reveal a buzzing internal glass cube where a team of pastry chefs experiment and reimagine the humble croissant. Founder Kate Reid is committed to perfecting the “art” of croissant making. “The way we create the layers in the pastry is unique to Lune,” she explains. “I have also developed a way to shape croissants to achieve maximum openness in the inner honeycomb structure. The proving and baking conditions are also very diferent to most bakeries’.” The result is a croissant with layers of pastry that are thick enough to give the outer shell a beautiful shatter when you bite into it, but thin enough to have ine, ethereally light, buttery inner layers. Lune is also the birthplace of the cruin, and fresh out of the “Lune Lab” on the day I visit is a lemon curd version, so delicious and light that it can literally be inhaled. Lune Croissanterie, 119 Rose Street, Fitzroy; lunecroissanterie.com

Mexican in Melbourne? Hidden in a heritage post oice, Hotel Jesus is low on frills but its commitment to fresh ingredients, big lavours and the fact that it provides an unusual food experience makes it “very Melbourne” to me – diverse and delicious. Taco Tuesdazes are what draw the crowds after work – vegetarians included. Tacos with smoked caulilower and broccoli lorets, mint leaf and popped amaranth tick all the right boxes. Hotel Jesus, 174 Smith Street, Collingwood; hoteljesus.com.au

FAIRY FLOSS FABULOUSNESS Pikachu fairy loss with unicorn ice cream – this is the signature of Son In Law Eaterie in Collingwood, which is known for its wacky desserts and iery Thai dishes. While the pad Thai charcoal noodles and green papaya salads are of the charts, it’s the giant, anime-inspired candy loss heads that are the winners if sweet stuf is more your speed. The Magic Chocolate Balls are also almost too adorable to eat. Pour a steaming jug of Thai milk tea, coconut pandan or Nutella hot chocolate over a beaming cartoon character, which slowly melts to reveal the crêpe cake inside, the ultimate reward. Son In Law, 56 Johnston St, Collingwood; soninlaw.com.au

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T R AVE L

CHEESE

n o market, somewhere between the organic vegetable stand that sells Japanese stem caulilower and an egg stall that logs emu eggs, is Maker & Monger’s “chariot of cheese”. Trading from a renovated French food cart, Anthony Femia has racked up a reputation for serving the best toasted cheese sandwiches in the city. The combination of artisanal cheeses, fresh sourdough bread and the gentle crunch (created by the perfect balance of heat and butter on the grill) wins it bragging rights. Prahran Market, 163 Commercial Road, South Yarra; prahranmarket.com.au

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PLA AY WITH YOU UR FOOD! No ot many restaurants can claim to have kkangaroo cupcakes on the menu. In truth they are on the dog menu at Coburg’s Glass Den Neighbourhood Bar & Food, but the rest of the menu is as much of a talking point. This is probably the most Instagrammed restaurant in Melbourne. The fact that it has given an old prison a second life is news, but the bold and beautiful brunch and dessert dishes are why people make the journey to this suburb on the rise. Hanging for a burger? Here they are sprayed with edible gold. Feel like a fritter? The roti hotcakes look worthy of a ive-year-old’s unicorn party, but some additions, such as matcha soil, have roots in very grown-up molecular gastronomy. Paired with an iced mocha (a frozen sphere of cofee served with hot milk) or a sweet and nutty purple taro latte, food has never been more fun. 15 Urquhart Street, Coburn; theglassden.com.au

8 A TOUCH OF ITALY One of Melbourne’s many graitti-laced lanes is home to Brunetti. Its founder, Giorgio Angelé, came to Melbourne in 1956 as a pastry chef for the Italian Olympic team. Thankfully he stayed and has grown a mini empire of authentic Roman pasticcerias. The new city lagship venue has been designed with his most famous produce displayed as the hero – a glass wall of extravagant cakes and pastries. 250 Flinders Lane, Melbourne; brunetti.com.au

TRAVEL

STREET FO FOOD C IN THE CITY Emerging from what is essentially a patchwork of endless, low-rise suburbs, Melbourne’s cityscape is tall and dense – a fusion of shiny, modern buildings and elaborate Victorian architecture. You’ll ind HWKR Food Centre tucked into the ground loor of one of these glossy towers. An edgy, architecturally designed take on a typical Asian food stall, HWKR is literally a moveable feast. New restaurants make pop-up appearances every three months.

It’s like the Magic Faraway Tree of eateries – every time you visit a new world of lavours has set up shop. The day I’m there (MasterChef spoiler alert), the winner of the 2018 season is at HWKR planning his upcoming restaurant takeover. But it’s the HWKR Tuckshop’s “No.14” that lures me to the food hall. The dry rendang curry chicken – a yinyang of spices and coconut milk – lives up to its name in that it’s not swimming in sauce. The chicken is juicy, tender and infused with tamarind, ginger, cumin and the other spices that make us this traditional curry paste. Blue rice, anyone? The curry is served with pickled onion and carrot and quirky indigo sticky rice (dyed with blue pea lowers), which makes for delicious eye candy, too. HWKR Food Centre, 137 A’Beckett Street, Melbourne; hwkr.com.au

10 ALL-OUT ASIAN Exploring Asian supermarkets is exciting for about ive minutes until I encounter a wall of soya sauce. Not only are there dozens of brands from which to choose, but they also range in shades from tawny to tar. Fortunately Angie Chong’s Humble Dumpling workshops are designed to demystify both the ingredients and unique techniques required for Asian cooking. Angie’s mother, Elizabeth Chong, is a famed TV chef and her grandfather invented the dim sim (a Chinese-inspired, dumpling-style fried snack food not to be confused with dim sum). At her workshop, Angie explains to me that there are three main types of soy, each of which has gone through a diferent fermentation process. “Light soy has the best lavour. Dark soy

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is used to create a deep colour in a dish, while kecap manis is a thick and syrupy Indonesian soy that adds a diferent lavour, but also colour,” she explains. Angie says it’s exciting how Asian ingredients have found their way onto the menus of some of Melbourne’s most cutting-edge restaurants and how there are so many interpretations of Asian cooking. Tapping into the wilder side of this is Lucy Liu Kitchen and Bar, housed of one of Melbourne’s lanes. Disco tunes and red neon lights give it more of a nightclub feel but it’s the next-level Pan-Asian tapas dishes that really make you want to wiggle your toes. Their greatest hits? Kingish sashimi, green chilli, Thai basil and toasted coconut and Korean-style crispy pork hock with apple kimchi salad, pancakes and hoisin (left). Lucy Liu, 23 Oliver Lane, Melbourne; lucylius.com.au

A D V E R T I S I N G

P R O M O T I O N

Serving suggestions CHILLI CON CARNE Soften 1 chopped red onion and 2 cloves chopped garlic in 2 T olive oil over a low heat for 5 minutes. Increase the heat, add 1 kg Woolworths free-range beef mince and brown. Stir in 50 g chilli con carne spice, then add 2 x 400 g cans tomatoes, 2 T tomato paste and 1 cup beef stock. Simmer for 20 minutes. Add 1 T balsamic vinegar and 1 x 400 g can kidney beans and season to taste. Serve hot with rice, limes for squeezing, chopped red onion, chilli and coriander. STUFFED RED PEPPERS Prepare the mince as above. Stuf into red peppers and roast at 180Â°C for 30 minutes. Serve with nacho chips.

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION JACQUELINE BURGESS FOOD ASSISTANT MARCELLE VAN ROOYEN

BEEF IT UP

INDEX STARTERS AND LIGHT MEALS Asparagus with nectarines, goat’s cheese and trule vinaigrette 86 Chicken potsticker soup dumplings 73 Hot charred cherry tomatoes with cold yoghurt 110 Hummus 70 Mexican-style seared tuna nacho salad 70 Prawn salad with black sesame tahini 86 Roasted onion dip 70 Tostadas with black bean pâté 100 Whole-roasted celeriac with coriander seed oil 110

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MAIN MEALS Butter chicken with garlic naan bread 74 Caprese pizza 73 Cheat’s slow-cooked lamb shank lattice pie 77 Crusted lamb ribs with anchovy-andparsley salsa 82 Mexican-style chorizo and seafood paella 100 Pan-seared thick-cut steaks with tofee onions 74 Pappardelle with rose harissa, black olives

and capers Puttanesca baked ish Slow-roasted duck with cherry sauce Teriyaki salmon noodle bowls

109 74 82 77

DESSERTS AND BAKING Any-colour-you-like velvet cupcakes 64 Canelés 25 Cereal milk cake (Strawberry Pops cake) 26 Chocolate candles 82 Coconut birthday cake 25 Cofee-and-chocolate mousse meringue cake 26 Cofee cream jellies with meringue shards 102 Cupcakes with whipped butter cream 25 Easy giant chocolate chip cookie 73 Hot-milk sponge cake with lemon cream cheese icing 29 Lime-and-pistachio doughnut cakes 26 Marshmallows with tofee sauce 78 Pea cake with lime icing 29 “P.S.” roasted white chocolate-andpopcorn tart 82 Sorbet citrus skins 77 Sumac-roasted strawberries with

yoghurt cream Vanilla cake Vanilla soft serve with praline dust

111 29 86

SIDE SERVINGS Ceviche-style shaved summer squash 102 Dombolo 48 Green salad with roast walnuts and avocado oil dressing 100 Instant mayo 78 Lemony garlic marinated baby marrows 78 Mustardy caulilower cheese 111 Pizza bases 73 BEVERAGES Brandy-spiked piña colada Calvados-and-blueberry haze Litchi-and-rose faux izz Negroni-style scorched grapefruit smoke Rainbow peppercorn and basil-spiced gin cloud Tequila-and-strawberry rosé punch Vanilla vodka passion Whisky bru

94 93 90 90 93 94 90 90

CONVE RS ION C H A RT 250 ml = 1 cup 190 ml = ¾ cup

125 ml = ½ cup 85 ml = ¹⁄ cup

65 ml = ¼ cup 5 ml = 1 teaspoon

15 ml = 1 tablespoon 30 ml = 2 tablespoons

45 ml = 3 tablespoons 60 ml = 4 tablespoons

COMPETITION TERMS AND CONDITIONS

The winners will be the irst correct entries drawn after the closing date. In the event of the judges not being able to get hold of the selected winner on contact details supplied, an alternative winner will be selected. The judges’decision is inal and no correspondence will be entered into. The prize is not transferable and may not be converted into cash. Employees of Woolworths, New Media Publishing and the prize sponsor company, their families, agencies or any other parties associated with the competition may not enter. All details correct at time of going to print. Note that some expenses may not be included in the prize. Visit taste.co.za for prize-speciic information and terms and conditions. Entry is limited to South African residents over the age of 18. COMPETITION AND GIVEAWAY ENTRY DETAILS

To enter, SMS the word“TASTE”followed by the keyword on the giveaway or competition page (and the answer, if applicable), your name, surname, email address, physical address and telephone number to 45606 (R1.50 per SMS), or enter online at taste.co.za. Unless otherwise speciied, the closing date for all giveaways and competitions in this issue is 28 October 2018. Terms and conditions apply, see above.

Discover Cape Town 5 Day Package R9 999* per adult Package Includes:

Kids under 5 years stay free. Kids between 5-15 years pay half price.

Enquiries Phone: Mail:

T&Câ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 021 408 9100 reservations@hi-capetown.co.za

The package is subject to availability. The package does not include flights, however for flight costs on all airlines please visit: http://www.travelstart.co.za/ * A R2500.00 non-refundable deposit is required within 7 days of making the booking to secure your accommodation and the balance of the booking is required to be paid 30 days prior to arrival; this may be made in monthly instalments.

FI N A L T I DBI T

Which recipe instantly takes you back 15 years?

When my kids were growing up, I used to make an easy lemon ice recipe from Phillippa Cheiitz’s book, Meals for a Month, in summer. We would have dinner outside with candles and a bright tablecloth, and listen to the Gipsy Kings. I would serve it in little green-and-white freckled bowls, just big enough for one scoop. My daughter, Cara, loved it very much. When Sam Woulidge, a beloved TASTE contributor, asked her for a recipe for her book, Confessions of a Hungry Woman, Cara shared it with memories of climbing onto the roof with her father to look at the stars. I still make it, so that we can all remember. But now I make it with lime juice, which gives it a little more tang. @sumienbrink Find Sumien Brink’s recipe for lime ice at taste.co.za.

PORTRAIT CORRIE HANSEN PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION SUMIEN BRINK AND HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT KATE FERREIRA INTERVIEW KATHARINE POPE

Sumien Brink, TASTE editor, 2003–2015