Sunday stroll

Akerselva river. © Shutterstock

Every Sunday, Norwegians leave the comfort of home to take part in one common activity: walking. A lot of the time nature, such as the woods, Marka (see page 31) or a mountain is the goal, but for the hip and urban Oslo crowd, a Sunday walk is often enjoyed right in the middle of the city. The river of Akerselva runs straight through the city, and though it's not technically the centre point of Oslo, it’s still considered the boundary between east and west. Walking along the river and its surrounding neighbourhoods is such a popular activity it's even got its own annual festival, Elvelangs, when light and art installations, music, theatre, acrobatics and other creative expressions take place all along the river.

FOLLOW THE RIVER DOWNSTREAM To experience a Sunday the way the Oslo crowd does, head to Nydalen (if you want the long trip) or start your day at Jerusalem Bridge (for which the closest tram stop is Sandaker Senter, a two-minute walk away) and follow the river down-stream. On the way, you’ll pass by Lilleborg, a redeveloped factory area with a cosy square, independent shops, and a very popular improv theatre, Det Andre Teatret (The Other Theatre). LILLEBORG

T A K E A B R E A K W I T H C O F F E E A N D N O R W E G I A N W A F F L E S Further down the river you’ll walk through multiple parks along the way, and soon reach Hønse Lovisas Hus (Hen Lovisa's House) for waffles and coffee. Hen Lovisa is a fictional character from the 1911 play Ungen ('The Kid'), by author Oskar Braaten, set in the area of Sagene, and the little red house was used in the 1974 film adaptation. The house, originally built in the 1800s, is currently used as a café and gallery with stunning views of a mid-town waterfall, and is said to have the best waffles in town. HØNSE LOVISAS HUS

E X P L O R E O S L O ' S H I P S T E R M E C C A Once you’re rested and have filled up on waffles, follow the waterfall and river onwards, but turn left onto the road once you get to Sannergaten. From now on, you’ll be walking through the neighbourhood of Grünerløkka – or Løkka, as Oslo people call it. Grünerløkka is considered one of the hippest neighbourhoods in Oslo, and is chock full of hipster and specialty coffee shops, vintage boutiques, restaurants, and art. Despite most of Oslo being shut on Sundays, Løkka’s independent shops tend to stay open for locals and tourists to browse the vintage goods. Along the way towards the Birkelunden park, you’ll pass by gems like German-inspired coffee shop Liebling and innovative restaurant Bass, but the real draw of Grünerløkka on Sundays is the markets. Most of the year, Sunday means market day, and Birkelunden transforms from a lazy park to a buzzing flea market filled with crafts and antiques. GRÜNERLØKKA

© Dreamstime

© Shutterstock

© Shutterstock

COFFEE, STREET ART AND SHOPPING At the bottom of the park, you’ll be spoilt for choice whatever you’re in the mood for. Nighthawk Diner is an American diner with '50s interior, jukeboxes and what is among the city’s best milkshakes and floats; Oslovelo is a bike repair shop complete with with bike rental, bar, and coffee shop; and for the vintage lover, Velouria Vintage is one of many treasure chests along the way. At Olaf Ryes Plass, you might find yet another market, but also a plethora of restaurants, like Villa Paradiso, one of Oslo’s most popular Italian restaurants. This is also an utepils hotspot, so if the weather is nice, grab a seat in the outside area of concert venue Parkteatret, and enjoy a cool beer in the sun. In the same area you’ll also find Tim Wendelboe, a world-famous espresso bar and micro roastery. Further down Løkka, vintage and coffee meet at the colourful Retrolykke kaffebar, and Manillusion, Robot and Frøken Dianas Salonger feed the Oslo crowd’s appetite for retro and vintage clothing. VINTAGE TREASURES

CREATIVE HUB BY THE RIVER Turn right back down to the river, and head for Blå (Blue), one of the artsier parts of Oslo. Surrounded by constantly changing graffiti murals, live concert venues, galleries and rehearsal studios, Blå is a club and concert venue by night and a bar with outdoor seating near the river by day, and on Sundays it hosts an alternative market with arts, crafts and antiques. Its neighbouring Ingensteds (Nowhere) is another concert venue hosting the indoor part of the Sunday market, as well as serving food from various corners of the world. Walk back into town via the popular food hall Mathallen at Vulkan and Torggata with all its culinary temptations, or stay late for Frank Znort Quartet at Blå, the big band aiming to ruin your Monday since 1998 by entertaining from Sunday night and into the early hours of Monday morning. Acoustic sets from 4.30pm, electronic sets from 8.45pm, and from midnight until 3am, it’s nightclub time with pulsing rhythms and DJ-sets. BLÅ