SCARLETTE ISSUE XVII, Spring/Summer 2020, Part II
executive board Editor-in-Chief Vice Editor-in-Chief Advisor Director of Finance Director of Layout & Design Director of Graphic Design Director of Journalism Director of Style Director of Communications Director of Social Engagement Director of Digital Media
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Philip Bradshaw Nicole Merritt Alexandra Suer Archita Rout Nataliya Bystrova Emily Zigo Katie Chung Syndey Smith Audrey Villarosa Marissa Mariner Emma King
letter from the editor
elcome to Scarlette Magazine! Our mission at Scarlette is to showcase THE Ohio State’s individuality through fashion, art, words, and other outlets. This semester has been one of the craziest semesters in the history of Scarlette. First and foremost, we’ve decided to bind our spring release into a cohesive theme -- Unmentionables. The things that are under the radar, under-rated, the things that should be mentioned about humble entities, the subtle things, the things that don’t get attention… you get the idea. This team has worked all semester both in Columbus and in quarantine and it would be un-unmentionable if I didn’t recognize the team’s devotion to this magazine. The people that have put their sweat, grit, creativity, thoughts, and love into this magazine are the future leaders of the fashion world. They’ve conquered the logistics of our recent growing pains and despite being faced with midterms, classes, and a global pandemic, they continued to put their effort into these pages. I hope that you feel inspired and develop new perspectives on the things within these pages. Enjoy this semester’s release of Scarlette Magazine!
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cover model: Chrissy Fears [NUDE Shoot]
Philip Bradshaw
IN THIS ISSUE... PART I
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Wildflower The BIG Favorite PLASTIC Dirty Dusts NUDE Don't. Call. Me. Baby. Creative Drive
PART II
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It's the Little Things Party Budget Wardrobe Versatile Outfits Cruelty-Free Makeup Fashion Rules Dark Side of Fashion A Message from Interior We are SCARLETTE
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It's the little things that matter author: Miranda Lipton | layout & design: Nataliya Bystrova | photographer: Sarah Dorweiler
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As the onset of a global pandemic has become a living reality for people across the world, there has never been a better time to recognize the value and beauty in shopping locally and independently. To support local and independently owned businesses is to support community and culture. And you’ll find the quirky and original items that won’t be found at chain stores. Major fashion brands produce clothing in mass quantities, and they are consistent in the types of products that they sell. A pair of jeans in your local Zara can just as easily be picked up in a Zara across the world. Boutiques, thrift and local shops are the places you’ll find one-of-a-kind items with a more personal shopping experience than major operations have the capacity to offer. Independent businesses owners invest their livelihoods in their companies; yet during times of economic hardship, they are the first to suffer. They have a smaller cushion to fall back on, and they are therefore less equipped to keep their employees paid and their doors opened. While international fashion brands drive the frontline of the industry, small businesses are the backbones of local economies and communities. One of the most daunting effects of COVID-19 on the global economy is the widening gap between corporate and independent businesses. The millions of suddenly unemployed Americans are turning to mass corporations. Amazon has hired 100,000 new employees to meet the delivery needs of consumers that have skyrocketed since the outbreak.
Independent brands across all industries are quite literally being absorbed by those that are equipped to serve customers in mass quantities, strengthening the monopolies that already exist. People are inclined to acquiesce into their habits when faced with less convenient alternatives. It is important now, more than ever, to support brands that are influencing positive changes in the fashion (or any other) industry. These aren’t all small businesses, though it is more difficult for companies to adhere to ethical and environmental standards of operation the larger they get. One way to support eco-conscious fashion is through brands that make their clothing from upcycled and/or recycled materials. Some brands that are trendy, reasonably priced and are pioneers of the recycled fashion movement are: Girlfriend, Everlane, Compare Ethics, Reformation, Alternative Apparel, Ten Tree, Eco Vibe and Wear Pact. These brands all source and manufacture their products in different ways, all of which are ethical, environmentally conscious, and innovative. And they are all transparent in how that is done, a rising standard in the fashion industry. The next time you’re shopping, consider the supporting businesses that are enriching local communities or leading fashion toward a more sustainable future.
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photographer: Courtney Petno shoot lead: Emily Zigo style lead: Emily Brown makeup: Hannah Mayle, Xandri Huynh models: Emily Brown, Emily Zigo, Grace Buckley, Jenn Jarvis, Mitsana Sanderson, Nicole Merritt, Sydney Smith, Xandri Huynh layout & design: Emily Zigo
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Budget Wardrobe author: Jenn Jarvis | photography: Marcus Loke | layout & design: Nataliya Bystrova
Creating an elite look on a budget is a challenge. Much less curating a luxury looking wardrobe. Consumerism drives the buy, dispose, buy again culture that keeps us sprinting to keep up and keep spending. The classics that last stay off the clearance rack. Seasons come and go and pieces you missed last season are non-existent. Ergonomically, it makes the most sense to buy pieces that are built to your form, and built to last wash after wash for the best value. To illustrate this I always refer to something called the ‘cost per wear’ principle. If you purchase a fast fashion top that you wear once, you’re out $25. It takes up closet space, then eventually landfill space, unless you take the time to donate. Though still not guaranteeing the piece a happy home of reused existence. If you buy a $160 pair of Doc Martens and wear them religiously like I do, say 25% of the time in rotation with your other shoes, that’s $1.75 per year (365 days * .25% = 91.25 days worn per year: $160 / 91.25 days worn per year = $1.75 per wear). That number just goes down the number of years that pass. I’ve got a pair that is five years old and still going strong. That’s a mere 35 cents per wear (91.25 days worn per year * 5 years = 456.25: $160 / 456.25 days = .35 per wear). In the age of designers recreating vintage and thrift inspired looks, a naturally worn boot, bag, or jean isn’t a problem, and depending on who you ask, it could be a benefit both in broken in for functionality and aged for aesthetic. Keeping an item until it’s past trend not only saves your pocket change but gives a sustainable edge. Even if it does last, what if it’s a faux pas next season? How does one choose an item that can transcend trends? The first step is to dress for your body type. Each season, you’ll focus on pulling items that flatter you most. In doing that, it won’t matter what the ‘in look’ is at the time period, you will feel fierce about your form every time you step out the door. Second, avoid dating yourself with modern pattern concepts or forecasted colors (though this can be argued when buying a color that really suits you, just don’t get too much). Last of all, anti-trend is the trend. Oversized has been revived by Billie Eilish andTimothée Chalamet has showcased androgyny. The body positive movement will keep high waisted garments on shelves regardless of the runway, unless merchants are okay with alienating a huge customer base. Be your own style icon and wear whatever makes you feel the most you.
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VERSATILE CLOTHING PIECES There is a seemingly continuous cycle of buying new clothing pieces and then discarding them after a few wears, fueled by the onslaught of trends seen on social media. As an alternative to purchasing new items for staying stylish, we present another option - investing in a capsule wardrobe. A capsule wardrobe is a collection of high quality, timeless pieces that can be worn season after season that make up the foundation of one’s wardrobe. Investing in classic, timeless pieces is fashion’s answer to the build-up of waste that comes from the endless cycle of buying-anddiscarding. Scarlette Magazine’s capsule wardrobe consists of a black blazer, white sneakers, a thick sweater, chinos, and a t-shirt dress. We hope we’ve inspired you to consider investing in staple pieces that can be worn in many ways, instead of buying things that could only be worn once.
photographer: Mary Stroemple shoot leads: Evan Rymer, Maddie Heldman stylists: Chelsea Roe, Rosie Colegrove models: Evan Rymer, Maddie Heldman, Peter Campanelli, SK Kim, Sophie Hill layout & design: Ellie Armstrong
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Our Favorite
Cruelty Free Products article: Lindsey Heben | layout & design: Emily Zigo
Whether you’re newly considering going cruelty free (which you totally should be!) or you’ve been doing it for years, here are some of OSU girls’ favorite beauty products for all budgets that can be used in good conscience!
• OGX Hair Oils ~$7 • Carol’s Daughter Hair Milk (Nourishing and Conditioning Cleansing Conditioner) ~$10 • Lush Shampoo Bars ~$13 • Aveda Shampure Dry Shampoo ~$30 • Aveda Damage Remedy Daily Hair Repair ~$30
• Lush Face Masks ~$10 • Glossier Milky Jelly Cleanser ~$18 • Native Soaps & Deodorants ~$10
• Colourpop Super Shock Shadows ~$6 • Milani Eye Tech Extreme Liquid Eyeliner ~$8 • Juvia’s Place Loose Highlighters ~$15 • Tarte Shape Tape Concealer ~$27 • Urban Decay All Nighter Setting Spray ~$33 • Fenty Pro Filt’r Longwear Foundation ~$35
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FASHION RULES article: Sam Piazza | photography: Martin Adams | layout & design: Nataliya Bystrova
Today, fashion is often seen as a way to express oneself and be unique. However, over the years, a variety of ‘fashion rules’ have been created to limit how people are allowed to dress. If someone goes outside of these rules, they are seen as tacky or simply unfashionable. These rules can be put into a wide variety of categories that each have their own purpose. One category of fashion rules is dedicated to saying what articles of clothing goes with what. This ranges from color combinations like navy and black to mixing specific articles of clothing like socks with shoes like heels and sandals. However, recents trends show wearing socks with your heels and pattern mixing to create a more edgy, street-wear vibe to your overall outfit. Another category centers around the recent trend of flexing and showing off wealth. Tying clothing with social status has been done repeatedly throughout history. To some, wearing athleisure, not matching your shoes, bag, and belt, mixing brands, and of course wearing faux fur would often be seen as unsophisticated or cheap. However, while the idea of buying from big brands such as Gucci and Louis Vuitton simply to show wealth is still very popular, the idea of being environmentally conscious is becoming increasingly important. Instead of flaunting expensive brands, they are instead bragging about how inexpensive an article of clothing was to buy because it came second-hand from a thrift store. Similarly, big name celebrities are also being shamed on occasion when it is discovered that they own items made from animals. These rules that were once taken as law are now slowly fading away. Fashion is on a constant track moving forward and the idea of rules that dictate how you are allowed to express yourself are being abandoned and left behind.
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THE DARK SIDE of the MODELING INDUSTRY
D A R K article: Amy Sun | photographer: Philip Bradshaw, Will Sharp | model: Nicole Merrit | layout & design: Philip Bradshaw
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Among the highly-acclaimed photographers of modern-day, Mario Testino is perhaps the most celebrated. Having worked with luxury fashion houses including Gucci, Versace, and Yves Saint Laurent, his images have been published in the likes of Vogue, Vanity Fair, and W Magazine. A favorite of the British royal family, Testino has photographed Diana, Princess of Wales, as well as the engagement photos of her son, Prince William, and Catherine Middleton. However, his illustrious career was abruptly punctuated when, in 2018, allegations of years of sexual harassment came to public light. According to accounts from thirteen male assistants and models who worked with Testino over the years, his abuse dated back to the mid-1990s and included groping and masturbation. Nonetheless, the recent misconduct accusations against Testino (as well as other famed photographers Bruce Weber and Terry Richardson) are only the surface of a much deeper, concerning issue rooted within the fashion industry. Running rampant with cases of harassment and assault, it is a business that suffers from a clear abuse of power. In front of the camera, the models who work for such figures of authority are placed in positions of susceptibility. Whether promoting a brand, product, or idea, a fashion model’s aim is to provoke the consumer’s desire. Oftentimes, sexually-suggestive imagery and nudity are utilized as means to such an end. Stuck in a compromising situation, models are forced to make a decision – oblige to a level of intimacy they are uncomfortable with and potentially advance their career, or decline and risk seeming difficult to work with. Stuck in such a grey area, fashion models’ vulnerability to mistreatment increases dramatically. It is no secret that success in the modeling world is tough to come by. Young, inexperienced models are often encouraged to do whatever it takes to attain recognition. Above all, the fashion industry is based on the idea that ‘sex sells’ so it is
not uncommon for models to be asked to shed a layer of clothing. Expected to be spontaneous and inventive, they can find themself navigating murky waters when dealing with requests from an authority figure such as a stylist, editor, or photographer. Contributing to the issue is the fact that models are typically seen as independent contractors, given that modeling agencies solely serve as advisory organizations. As such, many emerging models are not taught the necessary distinctions between appropriate and inappropriate behavior within a work environment. Some agents may even purposefully fail to inform clients about photographers known for improper conduct in the hopes that their careers will benefit from working with such high-profile individuals. Upon the onset of the “Me Too” movement, exposing producer Harvey Weinstein and others of sexual abuse within the film industry, the landscape of the fashion world began to change as well. In the fall of 2017, model Cameron Russell began posting anonymous accounts of fellow models’ experiences on her Instagram along with the hashtag #MyJobShouldNotIncludeAbuse. Later that year, with the help of the nonprofit Model Alliance, the Models’ Harassment Protection Act was introduced, an amendment to New York state’s current anti-discrimination laws. Founded by Sara Ziff in 2012, the Model Alliance advocates for equal treatment and opportunity for workers in the industry. Providing a glimmer of optimism, the increased awareness surrounding sexual misconduct in recent years is hopefully a continuos upward trend. By providing aspiring models with support systems and imposing harsher punishments for abusers, the fashion industry will be even better equipped to be a safe, uplifting, and creative space for all.
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A Message From The Interior photographer: Will Sharp | models: Clyde Bennett III, Drew Hess | layout & design: Phillip Bradshaw
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