13 minute read
TOP6
from The Scenic Route
by Scenic UK
TASTING YOUR WAY THROUGHPARIS
As Virginia Woolf said, "One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well." So, the next time you are in Paris, take the time to discover some very Parisian dining venues as recommended by chef, Gabriel Gaté.
Gabriel Gaté is a French chef, cookbook author and TV presenter. Originally from the Loire Valley, Gabriel learned from some of France's finest chefs - working in two, 3 Michelin-star restaurants - before moving to Melbourne, Australia where he became one of the country's leading food and cooking personalities.
Bofinger - A Very Parisian Brasserie
I never cease to be thrilled by the great cultural richness of Paris with its amazing galleries and museums, great markets and excellent gastronomy.
At the end of a busy day experiencing the French joie de vivre I often dine in a brasserie to relax and enjoy typical French fare. In this type of restaurant you can order anything from a simple dish to a feast, comprising several dishes. There are always several set-price wines, as well as other regional French wines
menus, as well as à la carte.
One of my favourite brasseries is Bofinger in the Bastille district. It is a local secret tucked away from the main streets a few hundred metres from Paris’ modern Bastille opera house.
When it was first opened in 1864 by Monsieur Frederic Bofinger, a native of Alsace, the tiny brasserie became popular as one of the first eating houses to serve draught beer. Today the stunning restaurant comprises several dining The extensive menu offers many popular French dishes, such as onion soup, charcuterie, snails, pepper steak, French fries and pâtisseries, such as Paris brest, profiteroles with a Valrhona chocolate sauce and vanilla millefeuilles.
There is also a large seafood section and may comprise several varieties of freshly shucked oysters, prawns, scampi, crab, lobster and more.
In honour of the original owner, Alsatian food is well featured with many types of sauerkraut, including traditional duck and seafood.
The wine list features many superb Alsace rooms spread over two floors.
and a good choice of wine and champagne by the glass.
Due to its wonderful Parisian atmosphere, a dinner at Bofinger is truly memorable.
Brasserie Bofinger, 5 to 7 rue de la Bastille, Paris 75004
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The Grand Véfour - An Exquisite Parisian Restaurant.
The Grand Véfour restaurant, housed on the edge of the beautiful Palais Royal gardens, is one of my favourite Parisian restaurants.
A lunch or dinner at this historic institution which first opened in 1794 is for me as memorable an occasion as a great concert or classic opera.
Guy Martin, a most loved and celebrated French chef, has been at the helm of the kitchen for almost thirty years and became the owner in 2011. Guy is an artist and his savoir faire and creativity are beautifully translated into stunning and delicious contemporary French dishes.
The dining room is one of the most beautiful in Paris. Entering the stylish restaurant, you are taken back two hundred years in time by the superb carved wood panelling, mirrors and fine frescos in the neo-classical style.
Throughout the year Guy’s menu evolves using the finest seasonal European ingredients. His vegetables and fish dishes are outstanding and his most popular dishes
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include duck ravioli with a truffle emulsion cream, roast pigeon, and gâteau de Savoie that he bakes in his grandmother’s cake mould.
As a native of the alpine region of Savoie, the chef celebrates his origins with a large cheese board featuring the most delicious fromages of the Alps.
His desserts, using fresh fruits and exquisite chocolate, are out of this world and some of the best I have enjoyed in my many gastronomic journeys.
The wine list is lavish and comprises many of the finest French wines and, naturellement, champagne.
The pleasure of a lunch or dinner at the Grand Véfour is sure to linger forever in your memory.
Restaurant Le Grand Véfour 17 Rue De Beaujolais Paris 75001 (Palais Royal district)
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Étretat Fécamp Bolbec Caudebec-en-Caux Seine Somme battlefields Honfleur 10 Rouen Deauville Lyons la Fôret Normandy Beaches Vernon Giverny Auvers- sur-Oise Château de La Roche-Guyon Les Andelys Chantilly France Conflans Paris
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C D Brasserie Bofinger Baked scallops, with creamed mushroom and summer truffle risotto Paris The Grand Véfour
The glorious FRENCH MARKETS by Gabriel Gaté
For French home cooks, visiting a fresh food market at least once a week is a way of life.
French markets are a feast for the senses, and as a chef, cookery writer and family cook, I feel stimulated and inspired by the great beauty of the colourful displays of fruits, vegetables and other stunning ingredients.
I often mentally plan a menu or create dishes while strolling through the atmospheric food aisles. I am inspired by the seasonal smells of fruits and fine herbs, such as basil, tarragon, strawberries and melons.
I like to visit a market between 8 and 10am when it looks its best and is not yet too crowded. I first walk through the aisles to feel the atmosphere and discover the best stalls. Then, I reward myself with café and a croissant or some other irresistible goodies before returning to the most tempting stalls. I must confess I have a weakness for fromage.
My native country has over 10,000 food markets, so when on a French Scenic river cruise, you are never far from one.
Paris alone has about eighty weekly markets, most of which are situated in an attractive or historic street and open two or three days a week.
The French capital has also twelve covered markets open five or six days a week. The oldest, le marché des enfants rouges, was established in 1615.
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The French word for market is marché, and a covered market is called a marché couvert, while larger, long-established covered markets are called les halles if there are several covered sections. You’ll find a stunning example of les halles in Versailles where the market is within walking distance of the extraordinary royal château. The best market days are usually Saturday and Sunday when family cooks have more time to plan their weekend feast.
A visit to a rural farmers’ market is a memorable cultural experience.
When discovering a gorgeous hilltop village, charming provincial town or famous gourmet city, such as Lyon, Avignon, Bordeaux or Paris, visiting a market is a most agreeable way of absorbing the richness of France's gastronomic treasures.
Most rural markets were established centuries ago, in old historic centres where you may also discover ancient châteaux, churches and medieval architecture.
Local farmers set up their stalls early in the central square of the village to sell their homemade cheeses, the freshest seasonal vegetables and herbs, and fruits ripened to perfection.
Other artisans like butchers and fishmongers, smallgoods makers and cheese masters sell their goods from a specially equipped refrigerated truck, travelling during the week to a different village every day. These artisans are proud of their products and are usually happy to give you a taste before you buy.
Country markets offer amazing food ideas for a picnic. The charcutier is the shop to buy freshly prepared salads, delicious smallgoods like patés, hams, terrines and salami. Most markets have a rôtisserie stall with the irresistible smell of roast chicken and other succulent, ready-to-eat meats and roast potatoes wafting through the air.
Around a market square you are sure to find a good boulangerie (bakery) and pâtisserie selling their regional specialities. And last but not least, you’ll find a wine shop to transform your picnic feast into a celebration.
Vive la France
Enjoy French markets on our selection of France river cruises
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Cognac
Pauillac
Médoc Blaye
Bourg Gironde France
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Bordeaux
Bassin d’Arcachon
Arcachon Dordogne
Libourne Pomerol
Garonne Saint-Émilion
Cadillac
Sauternes Entre Deux Mers Bergerac
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A B C D Marché du Capucins, Bordeaux Gabriel Gaté Deauville Weekly Market Cheese, Avignon Markets
DISCOVER THE MAGIC OF CHRISTMAS IN EUROPE
…the smell of roasting chestnuts and spiced gluhwein, there is nothing like a European Christmas
When country music star Faith Hill penned the tune ‘Where are you Christmas?’ She should have tried searching in Europe because if you can’t find the holiday spirit at Europe’s Christmas markets, then you might just be festively challenged.
Is it possible we have forgotten how magical Christmas can truly be in between Black Friday and Boxing Day sales? Capture the nostalgia, romance and merriment of a traditional European Christmas. Leave behind the holiday gift guides and commercialism and head to a place where the Christmas spirit is alive in its purest form – all it takes is a trip to Europe’s Christmas markets. EXPERIENCE A SENSE OF COMMUNITY AND CONNECTION
Europe’s Christmas markets deliver timeless traditions against a backdrop of dramatic cathedrals and skylines. Dating back to the Middle Ages, Christmas markets gave townsfolk an opportunity to stock up on goods to see them through the holiday season and winter months. The idea spread along trading routes and survives today for locals and travellers from across the globe. In European cultures, the warmth and sense of community in the Christmas markets carries a great deal of sincerity. What makes it so special is that the approach to Christmas is much more heartfelt. There are no over-the-top light displays set to top 40 music, commercialism is not the driving force, and there are no photo-ops on Santa’s lap to be found. The sincere nature strikes to the very heart of the holiday, and it can be found wherever you go.
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EXPERIENCE THE MAGIC OF CHRISTMAS ON OUR DANUBE CHRISTMAS MARKETS 8-DAY RIVER CRUISE Budapest > Munich Now from £2,120pp
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Germany
Nuremberg
Czech Republic
Regensburg
Munich
Passau
Linz
Cesky Krumlov
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Dürnstein
Melk
Salzburg Austria Danube
Vienna
Szentendre Hungary Budapest
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D STEP INSIDE A TRADITIONAL WINTER WONDERLAND The postcard-perfect scenes of Christmas markets in Europe are truly magical. Towns are draped in baubles, wreaths, and garlands, all cloaked in glowing lights and you are enveloped by traditional carols and classical music. The Christmas markets are a place of warmth and welcome.
ONE-STOP CHRISTMAS SHOP
The Christmas markets provide an epic shopping experience. Emphasising local artisanship, old-fashioned wooden toys and traditional delicacies, the stalls you can wander through are high on old-fashioned Christmas charm. Local artists, growers, bakers, and makers fill stalls that will leave your heart swelling with Christmas spirit. Stock up on everything from decorations, baubles, winter clothing, handmade soaps, hand-knitted creations, and so much more.
There’s no hard sell and the vendors are more than happy for you to take your time browsing. Once back home with all your purchases, your home will be a yearly reminder of the adventure you had in the European Christmas markets.
SAVOUR DELICIOUS DELIGHTS
It is difficult to accurately describe the wonderful aromas to be found in the Christmas markets, with a variety of sausages cooking on wood-fuelled fires, Kartoffelpuffer (potatoes), mulled wine (Glühwein), waffles, gingerbread snacks and sweets galore.
So what are you doing next Christmas? Celebrate in a magic world of time-honoured festivities, filled with nostalgia and happiness. Treat yourself to a Christmas you will always remember.
WATCH AUSTRALIAN TV PRESENTER LIVINIA NIXON EXPERIENCE EUROPE'S CHRISTMAS MARKETS
PART ONE PART TWO
A B C D Christmas markets, Vienna Glühwein Wurst sausages, Germany Glass Decorations, Germany
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