The Stitch

The beauty of katha design is that the shape is formed by looping threads on one surface only, so the reverse side of the fabric remains a simple katha of straight, running stitch, while the front side is a complex geometric pattern. Stitches used would also vary enormously. From a combination of special borders made with the humble running stitch, to a vast array of European stitches can be found in some old kathas. For example, one old katha fragment has shown to have used chain, darning, satin, running, dot and seed stitches along with traditional stitches typical to a Nokshi Katha.

In modern usage, katha more generally refers specifically to the type of stitch used. The earliest and most basic katha stitch is a simple, straight, running stitch. Running katha can be further classified into that using figures and storytelling (nokshi katha) or geometric patterns (par tola katha).

Running katha, is a straight running stitch and the original and earliest form of katha. Lik or Anarasi (pineapple) katha is practiced in the Chapainawabgonj and Jessore areas of northern Bangladesh. There are numerous variations of this form. Lohori katha or ‘wave’ katha is popular in Rajshahi (Bangladesh) and is divided into soja (straight or simple), kautar khupi (‘pigeon coop’ or triangle), and borfi (diamond) forms.

The Sujni katha type is only found in the Rajshahi area of Bangladesh. A popular motif is an undulating floral and vine pattern. It’s worth noting that Sujni is also practiced in Bihar. Cross-stitch or carpet katha was introduced by the English under the British Rule in India.

Embroidery Pieces Using Sujani Embroidery

Examples of patterns that make up a par tola katha ( Geometric pattterns). This pattern is often used in a Muslim prayer rug.

Lohori kantha or ‘wave’ kantha.