Hittin' The Road

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There’s never been a better time to get out on the road and explore the majesty of America. From the Pacific to the Atlantic the United States offers a bounty of treasures—some are hidden spots that won’t make it into your average guidebook while others are welltrodden destinations worth re-discovering, no matter how big the crowds are. Use this magazine as a starting point when planning your next trip. It doesn’t matter if it’s a weekend jaunt or a month-long expedition, a quest for culture or an action-packed adventure, a wilderness trek or a relaxing getaway. What’s important is that you get out there. We won’t steer you wrong.

Safe journeys.

Toyota does not guarantee or warrant the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of any story and shall not be liable to you in relation to the contents of, or use of, or otherwise in connection with the information contained in the following articles.

PREPPING YOUR TRIP

With a full tank of gas you’re revving to go, so here are some tips to make sure you’re ready to head out on the highways.

Check out travel advice from the bands of Scion Garage Fest at scionav.com/lifestyle/scionmagazine

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ROAD

P repping Y our T rip T e x t b y D a nie l Arno l d , E ri c D u c k er a nd J e f f T h rope

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ReserveAmerica.com

Since 1992, the people at ReserveAmerica.com have been leading the charge in revolutionizing North American camping by basically erasing all of your lazy excuses for not doing it. What started as a normal software company in 1984 has expanded to an Expedia-style campground-rental interface that makes the once overwhelmingly vast network of semi-wild places as accessible as the nearest chain motel. The next time you need to get out of the city, just pick a state, check off your favorite activities (i.e. boating, hiking, beach) and go where ReserveAmerica tells you. Plus, you can take care of everything from firewood to fishing licenses right on the site.

Picking a Camera

If you turn your next trip into a full-on photo expedition, chances are you’ll miss out on some action while you’re trying to preserve it. To avoid this unfortunate downfall, pack a camera that doesn’t require a lot of thought. Sure, film shot on a manual SLR has a warmth and intimacy that you won’t get anywhere else, but if you’re spending three minutes twiddling knobs every time you spot a squirrel, your friends are gonna feed you to a bear.

Any digital camera with an automatic setting and not terrible flash will do, but honestly, you’ll get the best balance of convenience, authenticity, art and economy if you make a habit of grabbing a new disposable camera every time you refuel.

They’re light, you don’t have to worry about passing them around and, surprisingly enough, they take some really good photos.

Music Mixes

Sure, the art of the homemade mix has faded with the invention of that iPod thinger and its infinite playlists, but before your trip, take a weekend afternoon to sit down with your records, your CDs or your computer and make a mix for old times’ sake.

The best part of creating one is the reaction of your fellow travelers, so make your recordings in private and be sure you’re not the only person along for the ride who’s putting one together. Don’t be nervous about your selections (you’re probably the only one paying that much attention) and remember that everything from Dylan’s Highway 61 Revisited actually sounds better in a car.

*M IHXITTIN’ THE ROA TAP E D *

HITTIN’ TH E ROAD MIX TAPE

Choosing a Sleeping Bag

If you’re traveling in the summer months and you know there isn’t going to be a huge dip in temperature when the sun goes down, get a light summer bag with a temperature rating of about 35 to 40 degrees that weighs close to nothing. A summer bag will be perfect for sleeping under the stars in the desert. When traveling in the spring or fall, when you need some extra warmth at night, go for a three-season bag that has a rating of around 15 to 20 degrees. Don’t scrimp on money here, as a good sleeping bag is one of the most important pieces of gear you can have while camping. No matter which type of bag you buy, you’re also going to have to choose between synthetic and goose down insulation, a decision that campers will argue about for years to come.

Synthetic is cheaper, dries quickly and is easy to take care of. Goose down is light, lasts longer and does a great job of wicking away body moisture. Don’t order a sleeping bag online. Instead, go to a camping store, tell an employee where you’ll be going and see what she suggests. It’ll be worth it.

Packing For Weather

When weather is a consideration in your travels, layering is always the best option. In cold climates several light layers take up less room than one bulky jacket, and in hotter regions the temperature often drops after dark. Sweaters and lined vests are smart, but really this is what fleece jackets are really made for. As for accessories, a scarf is handy, though hats are a must either way the thermometer swings.

Snacks

An easy way to save money and save time is to pack your own snacks before setting out on the road. If there’s no room upfront for a mini-cooler to stock with fresh fruit, opt for dried mangos and cranberries instead. An assortment of Japanese rice crackers is a crunchy and crumb-free alternative to trail mix.

As for the question of jerky, stock up on a couple packs of your favorite kind before you leave since a lot brands have the texture and taste of shoe leather. But keep an eye open for local varieties during rest stop breaks. And remember: Always pick teriyaki over hot pepper.

A M E R I CA THE BEAUTIFUL PASS

America the Beautiful Pass

The National Parks’ America the Beautiful annual pass (created in 2004) costs $80, but holy heck is it worth it. The pass works at any federally owned recreation site and allows free admission for one vehicle at any per-vehicle fee area or is good for up to four people at any per-person fee area. The passes are available at any park, over the phone or on the internet. The pass pays for itself after visits to four or five locations. store.usgs.gov/pass

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Packing Your Car

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GETTING THERE

Always keep your eyes on the road and remember that there’s an adventure at every turn.

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ROAD GETTING THERE T e x t b y D a nie l Arno l d , J eremy D i l l a h unt , E ri c D u c k er , C a ro l ine M c C l os k ey, J e f f T h rope And M a rg a ret W a pp l er

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Radio Station Guide

When driving cross country music selection is key, but there’s no better way to get some local flavor than by scanning the radio stations. A good general rule is to stick with the left end of the dial when passing through a college town, since the frequencies in the high 80s and low 90s are generally where you’ll find the idiosyncratic offerings of bored university kids. Oldies are widely available anywhere and pair nicely with most backdrops. The dulcet sounds of regional NPR and the agitation of talk radio come in handy when you need to hear a human voice. And don’t forget about the AM band during those long stretches between civilizations—you truly never know who’s out there.

Country Roads

When traveling on I-5 and I-83—four-to-six-lane blacktops with a posted speed limit of 65 MPH—the drive from Seattle, Washington to Hood River, Oregon takes approximately three and a half hours. Sure, it’s the quickest way to get there, but the sights along these corridors are about as unthrilling as you can get: fast food chains, truck stops, more fast food chains and the barest proximity to the natural landscape. The same trip can be made by following route 410 past Mount Rainier’s west-facing glaciers, ranging evergreen forests and wildflower meadows. Then head down route 12 via the 8,000-foot-tall Mount Adams to route 131, the heart of Washington State’s burgeoning wine country—a dry, tan landscape pockmarked by green sprouts of dogwood trees hugging meandering river banks. Sure, it will add an extra ten hours to the journey, but instead of bland and repetitive surroundings, country roads offer access to the idiosyncratic charms and beauties of the American landscape. For those who love the journey as much as the destination, the slow road can’t be beat.

Staple Diner Meals

There’s nothing better in a diner, or anywhere for that matter, than a cheeseburger (cheddar people, cheddar), french fries and a cola. Always make sure to ask if there’s any local variation of this classic meal. If you’re in New Mexico load on some green chile and if you’re in Wyoming, try it with bison meat. And if you don’t eat meat or just don’t like cheeseburgers, take advantage of most diners’ all-day breakfast options. An omelet with hash browns is always good.

Route 66

The Mother Road, as it’s sometimes called, is an old U.S. highway that once stretched from Chicago to Los Angeles, passing through Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico and Arizona along the way. Established in 1926, the famous pathway used by migrants in the Dust Bowl era is heavily featured in the John Steinbeck novel The Grapes of Wrath. Now fused with several interstate highways, U.S. Route 66 encompasses some 2,500 miles and is at its best when it winds through small, sleepy communities such as Galena, Kansas or Catoose, Oklahoma (home to the Blue Whale of Catoosa, a structure retiree Hugh Davis built as a surprise anniversary gift to his wife). The government stopped calling Route 66 a highway in the 1980s, but many sections of the road are well preserved, including a stretch between Springfield, Missouri and Tulsa, Oklahoma.

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Classic Camper Vans

If you’ve ever been in an old camper from the 1970s or early 1980s you know that there’s no better way to do a road trip. The backseat folds down and the top pops up to expose another bed, so there’s no need to put up and take down a tent every day. You think you’ll miss the good mountain air by being in the car? No way! All the windows pop open, giving you just the right amount of breeze and cross ventilation. And let’s be honest, all those details aren’t important when you’re riding in some of the coolest cars ever made.

Car Ride Games

Although a long drive is a great time to let your brain wander, too much time alone in your mind can lead to some unfortunate things. If state troopers gave out a book of Mad Libs with every speeding ticket, the amount of inter-car arguments would plummet. With that in mind, don’t leave home without a cache of distracting road games. If you’re traveling with a deep crew, ask everybody to come prepared with a question—something that’s more “What’s your strangest obsession?” than “What’s your favorite color?” When the ice-breaking conversation dies down, take a closer look at your surroundings. Can you find every letter of the alphabet in order on the passing road signs? Can you scramble the next five license plates to spell out a sentence? Is there a car from every state in the union on the highway? Find out.

*** ***

Bonus tip from an ac tual truc ker: “If you’re ever near the Poconos and run across the ‘Mountain of Sausage,’ don’t get it. Three pancakes and an egg topped with twelve sausages is a very, very bad idea.”

Local Variations on Truck Stop Food

To eat well on the road, adopt the mentality of a presidential nominee. Although a tour of overpass fast food is more likely to put you in touch with the nation’s heartbeat, it’s the mom and pop truck stops that bare its soul. Breadbaskets and blue plate specials should be regarded with as much wonder as free-grazing roadside buffalo. So stop in at the last of the three-name lunch counters, shake somebody’s hand and dig into potato-fried tilapia, great gravy and homemade waffles.

SETTING UP

The drive is over and the bags are all unpacked, so now it’s time to let the real journey begin.

Dig into recipes of more meals to cook when camping at scionav.com/lifestyle/scionmagazine

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ROAD SETTING UP T e x t b y D a nie l Arno l d , J eremy D i l l a h unt , E ri c D u c k er , C a ro l ine M c C l os k ey, J e f f T h rope a nd M a rg a ret W a pp l er

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Meals to Cook

Lunch and dinner are both mighty fine meals, but the true star of camping trip cuisine is breakfast. Sitting outside your tent before the sun has warmed the air and cooking something hot while your fellow campers are still asleep gives the whole experience a rugged authenticity. Start a fire, get out your Dutch oven and put in your pre-made biscuits, get some coffee going, fry up some eggs and bacon, then wake everyone up with that metal triangle you secretly bought along (it weighs less than a pound, so the joke is worth it). Breakfast’s ready, come and get it!

Here are some other ea

sy meals to make on yo

• Cheese and O nion Quesadillas • Sesame Noodl es (use soba nood les instead of pasta • Blueberry Panc ) akes • Turkey Corn Chi li • Pepperoni Pizz a (use Bisquick fo r the crust)

Airstream Trailer Campgrounds

Airstream trailers are shiny, sleek bullets of retro style, but getting one for yourself is an expensive idea. Luckily, you can stay in your own for a few nights at KOA campgrounds in Watsonville, California; Sugarloaf Key, Florida; Bar Harbor, Maine; and, of course, Las Vegas.

Rates run between $109 and $220 a night. If you’re lucky enough to own your own, there are Airstream-only campsites dotted around the U.S., including Penn Wood in Limestone, Pennsylvania; Tennessee Cumberland Plateau Campground in Crossville, Tennessee; Jersey Shore Haven Airstream Park in South Seaville, New Jersey; and Minnesota Airstream Park in Clear Lake. And then there’s Belrepayre Airstream in the Pyrenees foothills of France, the only Airstream park in all of Europe.

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Cast Iron Cooking

Cast iron recipes come in two types: frying and baking. The latter requires a tight-fitting lid. For both, it’s critical to keep the pan well greased; otherwise you’ll end up with burned remnants superglued to its surface. Frying recipes should be done over a campfire’s open—though not raging— flame. Baking recipes are best done two or three inches above a bed of coals that’s two inches deep and the same diameter as the pan.

n twice over. bottom of your pa erries to cover the king • Pick enough blackb on sugar, 2 teaspo ba tter, 1 cup flour, 1 cup bu th. oo cup sm ½ til ine un mb isk Co Wh • lk. salt and ¾ cup of mi powder, a pinch of cast iron pan. red tte bu ll we o a warm, • Pour the batter int er the batter. evenly spread it ov inches • Add the fruit and d let it sit one to two a tight-fitting lid an h til the wit un n or pa tes the nu r mi ve • Co me—for 45 to 60 fla no ls— coa of d over a be lden brown. batter is crisp and go

Selecting Firewood and Starting a Camp Fire

So you’re not rolling into the campsite with a full stock of pine starter and some lighter fluid? Not a problem.

The key is to start small, with kindling. Pine cones, needles, crackling twigs, and dried bark are all perfect.

Next, look for hard, dry logs: oak, birch, beech and maple are all solid choices. Once you have the kindling burning, build a teepee of small logs over it. Be sure not to suffocate the kindling, since breathability is crucial to a campfire’s health. And remember to overstock on fuel for your fire—once the flames are up and running, you won’t want to scrounge for more wood to keep the dream alive.

** To stay safe and prevent forest fires, always: keep the fire attended, build the fire away from overhanging

branches and dry grass, make sure your match is completely extinguished and drown it with water (including embers and any sticks) when you’re done.

ur trip:

Yes, it’s increasingly important to get in touch with nature, but it’s usually best to follow that idea figuratively not literally. Here are some plants with a definite hands-off policy:

Poison Oak

Found in different varieties on the West and East coasts, poison oak has tri-leaflet pattern and turns from green to red (West coast) or orange (East coast) as the year progresses. When urushiol, poison oak’s surface oil, makes contact with human skin, it causes itching that can lead to inflammation, blisters, hives and other rash like symptoms.

Yurt Campgrounds Poison Ivy

Found in wooded areas in nearly every state in the U.S., its green leaves feature three almondshape leaflets. Like poison oak, the urushiol on its surface causes an allergic reaction in human skin.

A yurt is a circular structure modeled off the traditional homes used by nomads in Central Asia. Western versions of the yurt are sturdy, easy to put up and, like teepees, can be placed virtually anywhere. These traits make them perfect for sleeping in remote locations without having to rough it too bad. The frame of a western yurt is made of wood with a large polymer cover, which means that unlike the nomadic yurts of the East, it’s not going to be portable.

But the solid structure means great insulation for cooler summer nights and warmer winter nights; windows; and a real floor that welcomes a comfortable bed. Check out Colorado Yurt Company’s website (coloradoyurt.com) for a surprisingly large list of campgrounds throughout the country where you can try something new and stay in a yurt. You’ll thank yurtself later.

Poison Sumac

Found mainly in the swamps of eastern states, it can range in size from small shrubs to plants that tower over any human. Its urushiol-covered leaves turn a reddish tint as the year progresses and its leaflets number more than seven per branch. Its effects are the same as poison oak and poison ivy.

Poison Hemlock

Found throughout the United States but particularly a problem on the West coast, poison hemlock can be absorbed through the skin and fatal when ingested. The dangerousness of this plant is increased because of its similarity in appearance to fennel and parsnip.

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Motel Swimming Pools

Let’s assume you’re not blowing it out at the Ritz. Let’s say you’ve chosen to decamp at a perfectly serviceable motel chain somewhere outside of Carlsbad, New Mexico or Moab, Utah. Maybe they do not offer the high thread counts or $22 cocktails of a luxury hotel, but roadside motels, especially in the Southwest, often come with a pool. It may be a neglected chlorinated hole surrounded by a dingy white metal fence. Who knows whether it’s functional or strictly decorative? Either way, there is something undeniably grotty-glamorous about the aesthetic. Do not let the fact that no one is in it deter you. Grab your BluBlockers and a bag of Cheetos, channel True Romance and hit the plastic lounge chairs for a fully articulated low-brow afternoon.

Bear Prevention

There’s a widespread adage among national park people that goes, “a fed bear is a dead bear.” All it takes is a single misplaced PB&J sandwich to incite bear aggression, a terrifying proposition that inevitably leads to property destruction by the bear (and puts both the bear and hikers in danger). Scavenging bears have become such a problem in Rocky Mountain National Park that rangers now require all overnight campers to pack a bear canister. Most canisters fit into an ordinary backpack and provide a proper, bear-proof storage space for food, pots, pans, soap, toothpaste and anything else bears might consider delicious. Some campsites now provide hanging poles to keep well-sealed bundles of potential bear bait out of reach. If a pole is not available, tie a rope high between two trees, then tie one end of a second rope to your package and the other to the first rope, suspending it in mid-air. For further safety, make sure to not only thoroughly clean up after yourself but for whoever else came before you.

Setting Up A Tent

Locate the flattest spot on your site, preferably where the ground is the softest. Try not to set up directly underneath a tree or too close to the food preparation site, especially if you are in bear country. If you are in a remote area, stay away from mountaintops or the lowest ground since those are high risk areas during storms. Lay down a tarp to prevent dampness from bad weather and morning dew from seeping in. Orient the entrance of the tent along the direction of the wind to help ventilation.

Peg or stake the tent down, even if the weather is currently calm.

Edible Plants

Not only will it save you money, but you’ll feel harmonized with nature by foraging for some of your own food. Some of the edible plants you’ll find in forests and temperate climates are familiar—blueberries and acorns, for instance—but then there is exotic fare such as prickly pear cactus and amaranth leaves. One of the safest bets is dandelion leaves. Wash thoroughly, then combine with hunks of cheddar cheese and a simple dill vinaigrette for a tart salad. Mushroom-picking is not for beginners, as the indicators of edible varieties are very hard to identify.

The best idea is to pick up a reliable guide like The Forager’s Harvest: A Guide to Identifying, Harvesting, and Preparing Edible Wild Plants

by Samuel Thayer or the Department of the Army’s trusty The Illustrated Guide to Edible Wild Plants and scour it before you try anything.

******Room Service****** So you’ve splurged on a legitimately decent hotel.

Now it’s time to draw the blinds, Pay-Per-View a terrible Bruce Willis movie and curl up with the room service menu. Ease like this comes at a steep premium, but it’s worth it. Grilled cheese and fries? Totally! Etiquette-wise, wearing a robe when answering the door is perfectly acceptable. When you get the bill, check to see if gratuity is included; if not, 20 percent is considered a standard tip.

And when you’re done, erase the experience by wheeling the cart and dishware into the hallway.

2009 Š Robert Rodriguez / lindgrensmith.com

T H E P AC I F I C C O A S T I LL U S T R A T I O N B Y R o b ert R odrigue z

Adventure Sports Along The Pacific Coast From border to border the Pacific Coast is filled with knockout nature

and all types of weirdness. Embrace the spirit of the seekers who came before you and go west into the unknown.

Mounta in C lim b ing in Mount Hood

About an hour outside of Portland, Oregon is Mount Hood, a “potentially active” volcano along the Cascade Range. There are day-hiking opportunities and plenty of skiing, but the truly adventurous can take part in a mountain climbing expedition. That said, you’ll definitely need more than a fleece and a canteen to make it to the summit. Timberline Mountain Guides has multiple programs for interested climbers, including ones for beginners that involve a basic snow climbing course and overnight expeditions for those more experienced.

Timberline’s programs range from $460 for a two-day introductory course to $900 for a four-day expedition-style seminar. timb er linemtguides. c om

Kitesur fing/Windsur f ing on th e Hood R iv er AND W hitewater Ra f ting on th e W hite S al mon Ri ver

Take a double shot of water adventure on the border between Oregon and Washington. The point where the Hood River meets the Columbia River Gorge is a top spot for kitesurfing and windsurfing, and there are plenty of stores nearby to take lessons from or to rent gear. Once you’ve gotten the hang of these two technically challenging surface-water sports, head over the Hood River Bridge into Washington for the visceral thrill of whitewater rafting. Pick up the journey at B Z Corners, following the rapidfilled White Salmon River through the gorges that surround it.

There are plenty of rafting operators in the area to sign up with.

Kitesurfing and windsurfing lessons around the Hood River average $95.

A day of whitewater rafting on the White Salmon River is about $65.

F E AT U R E D R O A D T R I P Adventure Sports Along The Pacific Coast S T O R Y B Y E R I C D U CK E R Sometimes you need more than a camera and hiking boots to best experience the glories of the Pacific coast. For decades, people in California, Oregon and Washington have embraced adventure sports and there is a vast network of operators and guides out there to help rookies, veterans and everyone in the middle. These activities are more about getting closer to nature than adrenaline thrills but yes they can be pretty thrilling.

Ro ck C l im b ing in Yosemite

Northern California’s Yosemite National Park is the place for climbers to set records and make a name for themselves. Of course, you don’t have to be on that level to enjoy the sport while there.

The Yosemite Mountaineering School and Guide Service, the only company allowed to operate within the park, works with climbers of every ability. Though Yosemite is known for daunting rock walls like the famed El Capitan, there are also bouldering opportunities and bolted climbs around the park.

Entrance fee to the park is $20 per car. nps. go v / yose Climbing lessons from The Yosemite Mountaineering School average about $120 per person. yosemitepa rk .com /Activities_Rock Clim bing.a sp x

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Cold Water S urfing at Cannon Beach

Far in both distance and feel from sun-drenched SoCal surfing, catching some waves at Oregon’s Cannon Beach is an exhilarating experience. The water temperature rarely breaks 60 degrees even in August, but the surfing itself is great. In town, Clean Line Surf Shop has been serving the area for nearly 30 years and they can set you up with all the gear you need to handle the frigid temperatures. A package including board, hooded wet suit, boots and gloves costs $35; they also teach lessons. As a bonus for movie fans, Cannon Beach is where the final scenes of late-20th century classics The Goonies and Point Break were filmed.

Clean Line Surf Shop is minutes from the beach, which features free admission. c l e a n l inesur f.com

K aya king on t h e Kern R i v er

Journey inland to Kernville, south of Sequoia National Park, for kayaking on the Kern River. Veteran kayakers will tell you that spots like this just don’t exist anymore. Sierra South (sierrasouth.com) offers lessons or demos boats, depending on your skill level. The best time to go is in the early spring, when the pure (and supercold) water melts down from the snowfall on Mount Whitney. The river features rapids ranging from class 2 to class 5, including the famed Cataracts. Don’t be intimidated by the Killer Kern sign that lists how many people have died on the river since 1968. And if you are, sit the day out with a hamburger at the Kern River Brewing Company, co-owned by Olympic silver medalist kayaker Rebecca Giddens and her brother Eric.

Sierra South’s two-day introductory class costs $305; the whitewater kayaking equipment rental package is $45 per day. kernriv ervalley. c om

Long boarding on S an O nofre S tate Beach

San Onofre State Beach is a time warp back to the era before Xtreme. Located an hour north of San Diego and about an hour south of Laguna Beach, San Onofre has been a longboarding destination since the 1940s. It still fosters a classic California scene, with a parking lot packed with old school vans and waves full of leather-skinned surf bums. Beach mutts now have to be kept on a leash, but there are still firepits for evening cookouts. Arrive either very early or very late, because the line of cars trying to get in can get ridiculous. Beginners and non-locals welcome.

Parking is free, call 949-492-4872 for beach hours. par ks . c a . gov /? page _ id = 6 4 7

2009

JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK EXPLORE THE MAJESTY OF THE PACIFIC COAST

With a landscape stark and bizarre enough to warrant comparisons to the moon, Joshua Tree is a must-see for anyone in pursuit of epic, sweeping visuals. Beyond the alien-looking eponymous trees, this park in the midst of the Mojave Desert contains a gallery of other oddballs, including a giant rock resembling a skull, gardens of insidiously clingy cacti and several palm oases. nps.gov/jotr DISTANCE FROM THE CLOSEST CITY: 140 miles from Los Angeles.

COST: $15 for a seven-day permit to the park.

MOST POPULAR TIME TO VISIT: Spring.

BEST TIME OF THE YEAR TO VISIT: Fall, when the scorching heat and vacation crowds have both subsided.

WHERE TO STAY: Joshua Tree Inn & Motel (joshuatreeinn.com). Gram Parsons bedded down here in Room 8 on his last night on planet Earth.

The low-key vibe (koi pond, lounging areas, pool) encourages mingling without requiring it. Rooms start at $85 per night.

LANDMARKS OF

THE PACIFIC

SANTA CRUZ BEACH BOARDWALK Resting on the Pacific, the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk is a 20th century throwback fueled by endless cotton candy and quarters plunked into flashing carnival games. Though the Boardwalk doesn’t specialize in the metal monsters that now dominate other amusement parks, the wooden Giant Dipper rollercoaster will rattle your teeth even though it is nearly 100 years old. beachboardwalk.com DISTANCE FROM THE CLOSEST CITY: Less than half a mile from downtown Santa Cruz and 75 miles from San Francisco, California.

COST: $29.95 for an all-day unlimited rides wristband.

Most popular time to visit: Summer.

BEST TIME TO VISIT: April, when the temperature starts to climb and all the rides are open, but the school trips haven’t clogged up the lines.

WHERE TO STAY: The Dream Inn (dreaminnsantacruz.com). A former eyesore, the Dream Inn has been totally renovated into a mod-style boutique hotel right on the beach. Rooms start at $259 per night.

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TEXT BY JEREMY DILLAHUNT, ERIC DUCKER AND CAROLINE MCCLOSKEY

REDWOOD NATIONAL PARK Best known for its oxygen-rich glades of old-growth redwoods, the park also contains the Klamath River Overlook, where you can witness the gray whale migration in the spring and fall. nps.gov/redw

SALTON SEA In the course of one century the Salton Sea has experienced its birth and its death. After the Salton Basin flooded in 1905 it was transformed into the state’s largest lake and by the 1950s it had become a popular resort town that rivaled Palm Springs. Then the salinity, algae and bacteria of the sea rose to dangerous levels—decimating the bird and marine life. While there is talk about revitalizing it, the largely abandoned area is now totally creepsville, giving an awesome glimpse at what life looks like beyond Thunderdome. saltonsea.ca.gov/thesea.htm

DISTANCE FROM THE CLOSEST CITY: 325 miles from San Francisco, California and 378 from Portland, Oregon.

COST: Entrance to the park is free.

MOST POPULAR TIME TO VISIT: Summer.

BEST TIME TO VISIT: March and April, which is prime time for whale watching.

WHERE TO STAY: The Ship’s Inn in Eureka (shipsinn.net). This super mellow bed & breakfast dispels the genre’s myth of being a doily-bedecked, cloyingly grandmotherly experience. Rooms start at $130 per night.

DISTANCE FROM THE CLOSEST CITY: 60 miles from Palm Springs, California.

Cost: Free.

MOST POPULAR TO VISIT: The Salton Sea no longer has a peak tourism season.

BEST TIME TO VISIT: Whenever it’s not too hot and the dead fish smell isn’t too strong.

WHERE TO STAY: There are seven campgrounds on the eastern side of the Salton Sea with varying degrees of amenities. (saltonsea.ca.gov/recreation/camping.htm)

San Juan Islands Hop a ferry to Orcas, Lopez or San Juan islands (there are more than 450 islands in total, but these three are the most accessible), famous for sea kayaking. When you reach land, hit the farms, openair markets, orchards and vineyards and assemble your own locally grown feast. visitsanjuans.com DISTANCE FROM THE CLOSEST CITY: 108 miles from Seattle, Washington.

COST: $35 to $45 (depending on the island) for car and driver ferry fare from the mainland.

MOST POPULAR TIME TO VISIT: Summer.

Best time to visit: Summer, when there’s the best weather and the most bountiful produce.

WHERE TO STAY: North Beach Inn on Orcas Island (northbeachinn.com).

Rustic, private, and remote, North Beach’s 13 rooms afford solitude, views and ample opportunity for spacing out. Rooms start at $140 per night, with a minimum two-night stay.

Hearst Castle

This sprawling estate—located in San Simeon, California, halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco—was commissioned in 1917 by newspaper magnate and art collector William Randolph Hearst. His taste was notoriously grand, eclectic and ever-shifting. The result is an over-thetop blend of architectural influences (Spanish Renaissance, Mediterranean Revival, Gothic… Hearst even imported a ancient Roman temple to garnish his masterpiece) that took architect Julia Morgan nearly 30 years to complete, It boasts 56 bedrooms, 61 bathrooms, and 41 fireplaces.

In its heyday, the castle’s aura of glamour was matched by its guestlist, which was frontloaded with luminaries such as Greta Garbo, Winston Churchill, Cary Grant and Charles Lindbergh. When Hearst ran into health and financial woes in the 1950s, the castle was donated to the state of California, which designated the property a historic landmark and opened it for tours. hearstcastle.org Tours are available daily from 8:20AM to 3:20PM and cost $24 per adult.

THE MYSTERY SPOT

Advertised throughout California via complimentary bumper stickers, The Mystery Spot in the redwood forests of Santa Cruz exists in a realm (or at least in a shack) outside the laws of gravity and physics. During the 45-minute tour, the guides race through demonstrations to prove the strangeness of this place: balls can roll upwards, people seem to shrink in size depending on where they stand, etc. The internet will tell you these phenomenon are all in your mind, but you’ll definitely leave The Mystery Spot with your head genuinely reeling. Of course, that might be because of the fumes the buried alien spaceship is leaking. mysteryspot.com

Open everyday, the tour costs $5 per person and there is a parking charge of $5 per car.

Vineland Drive-In

By now, most drive-ins have gone the way of the four-wheel roller skate, but, happily, a few holdouts remain. Among them is this kitschy gem just off Interstate 10, roughly 20 miles outside of Los Angeles. The last drive-in in L.A. County, Vineland unites two essential elements of SoCal culture: cars and movies. There are a few concessions to the 21st century here, such as Dolby stereo sound accessible through a car’s FM radio and visual enhancement by Technalight. Remember to bring cash (Vineland doesn’t take cards) and your own snacks (the concession lines are slow and the prices are steep) to the evening double feature that begin nightly at dusk. vinelanddriveintheater.com

Admission is $8 per person.

26

King Bowling Supply

Music

PICKA T HON

Festival

The Pickathon indie roots music festival is held under the shadow of Mount Hood on Pendarvis Farm, a 80-acre working farm that’s just 20 miles outside of Portland, Oregon.

Founded by Zale Schoenborn and Scott Pendarvis in 1999, nearly 40 acts play across six different stages during the festival’s three days. Past performers include Blitzen Trapper, Justin

Townes

Earle,

The

Avett

Brothers and Langhorne Slim. Multiday concertgoers can camp out, or stay in nearby hotels like the Best Western Sunnyside Inn and the Days Inn Portland South (both in the town of Clackamas) that offer a free shuttle service to the festival.

While

there’s

plenty

of

ALTERNATE ROAD TRIP Los Angeles, California to Anza-Borrego, California instead of to Joshua Tree, California While no U2 albums were named after it, Anza-Borrego still has plenty going for it. On 600,000 acres in the middle of California’s Colorado Desert, this state park is even more remote than Joshua Tree. A major draw is the blooming cactuses and amazing wildflowers that come in the spring (there are even obsessives who track them via web cams to know the exact time to go), but Anza-Borrego boasts miles and miles of spectacular hiking trails year-round. With a four-wheel-drive vehicle you can get to the most secluded parts of the park. For those looking for a different type of isolation, the recently renovated Palms Hotel in nearby Borrego Springs offers the same escape it brought to the Hollywood elite back in the 1950s. parks.ca.gov/?page_id=638 Operating hours are from dawn until dusk, park admission is $5 per car.

music,

crafts, and food to enjoy onsite, attendees can also explore miles of gorgeous hiking paths through the surrounding Douglas Fir woods.

pickathon.com

Every time I go somewhere, no matter what, there is a whole tourist market. Ever since I was a kid I was always walking off side streets and looking for something different. I do that almost everywhere. In a place like Hawaii, you totally miss out on the small neighborhoods and how Hawaiian people really live. That’s where all the good stuff is at: the good food, the good snacks. It always helps to know somebody local or talk to someone local who’s working. I went to the Monterey Bay Aquarium, so I asked some guy who was working at a candy shop where he goes to eat. He told me about some great spot three blocks away that nobody goes to because you don’t get an ocean view. A lot of times when I go somewhere, I try to go to a flea market. It’s not to buy souvenirs, I look at people’s old stuff I learn about a place. You see a history of what people have bought and what they’re getting rid of. It’s a totally underrated. Also, the people there are kind of chatty.

Eric Nakamura is the publisher and co-editor of Giant Robot. He produced the film The Dwelling, which appeared in Scion’s Easy Ten film series. Learn more at scionav.com/film/easy10.

Sawtooth National F orest

calante Grand Staircase Es nt me nu National Mo

2009 Š mariowagner/agoodson.com

T H E F R O N T I E R S TAT E S I LL U S T R A T I O N B Y M A R I O W A G N E R

Grand Teton National Park

Dinosaur National Monument

Canyon de Chelly National Monument

e Organ Pip ment u n o National M

Overlooked Nature Destinations in the Frontier States

Boasting some of this country’s most dramatic landscapes, the Frontier States are home to both indelible landmarks and hidden pockets of amazingness. Whether the tourist buses roll through them are not, these are places that can’t be experienced by postcard.

Cr aters of th e M oon N ationa l Monument

In addition to having one of the best names of any park in the country, Craters of the Moon is composed of eerie lava fields dotted with sagebrush and juniper. Located in central Idaho, Craters is a place that needs to be seen by foot, whether it’s through the lava fields or in the cave (preferably both). The half-mile hike up Inferno Cone offers panoramic views of the park, while Boy Scout Cave is covered in stalactites, formed by hot lava dripping down and then cooling on the walls. The cave retains ice yearround and its floor is a thick, slippery sheet, so walk real slowly.

Admission to the park is $8 per vehicle. nps . gov / crmo

Sawtooth National Forest

If you don’t have time to drive to Alaska, Sawtooth National Forest in Idaho might be the next best thing. The more than two million acres that make up Sawtooth are, in a word, rugged. The forest area is some of the wildest in the lower 48, and the 50 granite peaks that rise above 10,000 feet make it one of the handsomest as well. And with over a thousand lakes and three thousand miles of rivers, it’s no surprise that Ernest Hemingway asked to be buried here (his gravestone is in the nearby town of Ketchum). There are 37 campgrounds in Sawtooth National Forest, most of them situated on the water and near mountains, so bring your camera and get your Ansel Adams on while baking some Idaho potatoes in the fire.

Admission to the forest is free. fs . fed. us /r 4/ s awtoot h

Gra nd Sta ir ca se E s ca la nte N ation a l M onument

Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument is all about the hoodoos. Unfamiliar with hoodoos? In layman’s terms, a hoodoo is a tall, thin spire of rock that’s topped by harder rock. They come in all shapes, sizes and colors, but you’ll know when you see one. Located in Southern Utah, the Grand Staircase Escalante is nearly two million acres big and is divided into three main areas: the Grand Staircase, the Kaiparowits Plateau, and the Canyons of the Escalante. Take the Cottonwood Canyon Road through the Staircase area to see the rich reds of the canyon walls and become more familiar with hoodoos.

Admission to the park is free. b l m .gov /ut /st/en/f o/gr and _stairc ase-esc alante. html

F E AT U R E D R O A D T R I P

Overlooked Nature Destinations in the Frontier States S T O R Y B Y J E FF T H R O P E The American West is filled with postcard-perfect landscapes and astounding sites. But as magnificent as Arizona’s Grand Canyon and Utah’s Monument Valley really are, there are plenty of other spectacular places for camping and hiking. Head out into the frontier states and enjoy these treasures without the crowds and hassles that the most popular vacation months can bring to tourist hubs.

30

G r a nd Teton N ation a l Pa r k

In the late 1920s John D. Rockefeller Jr. bought the land that is now Grand Teton National Park so he could keep a protective hold on it until the National Park Service was ready to take it over. Located in northwestern Wyoming outside of Jackson, the Grand Teton—Wyoming’s second highest peak and the park’s namesake—watches over 100 alpine and backcountry lakes, the mighty Snake River and countless moraines (large fields of rocks and boulders left behind by glaciers). That mountain air is therapeutic, so make sure you do a little camping while you’re there. Also, be sure to wake up before dawn one day, take a drive down the Jenny Lake Scenic Road, watch the sunrise and then go to Jedediah’s House Of Sourdough in Jackson for some of the best sourdough pancakes you’ve ever had.

Admission to the park is $25 per vehicle. nps. go v /grte

D inosaur Nation al M onument

The Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado might be home to several famous fossil finds, but to really understand the park you need to hop in a raft and float down Split Mountain Canyon. Head to Adrift Adventures in Bueno Vista (adrift.com), one of two commercial companies that the National Park Service allows in, and spend the day relaxing while imagining what that area of the world looked like during the late Jurassic period, when the Allosaurus was running around. When your float is over, pitch your tent at one of the park’s six campgrounds.

Admission to the park is $10 per vehicle. nps. gov / dino

C a nyon de C h e lly Nation a l Monument

Canyon de Chelly in Arizona is unique in the National Parks system in that it is entirely Navajo Tribal Trust Land. The only way to hike on the canyon floor is to take a guided tour with a park ranger. You’ll walk through towering walls of rock that have sustained one of the longest continually inhabited landscapes of North America. The tour costs $15 and you can sign up at the park’s Visitor Center, three miles from Chinle, Arizona. The exception to the guided-tour rule is the White House Trail, a short two-mile hike that takes you to some impressive ruins dating back to around 1200 A.D. There is no fee for entrance or camping, so bring some cash to buy some of the crafts that the Navajos sell at the ruins.

Admission to Canyon de Chelly is free. nps. go v /CACH/index . htm

Org a n P ipe N ation a l M onument

Organ Pipe National Monument is the desert, pure and simple. It’s Edward Abbey country. Tucked away at the southern border of Arizona, right above Mexico, Organ Pipe is part of the Sonoran Desert. When you’re there, life is slow, good, hot and cold. Winter days can get up to the 70s and drop to the 30s by night. There are plenty of areas where you can set up a tent and watch the sun set over a horizon filled with organ pipe cactuses. Before you fall asleep, take a 21-mile spin on the twisting and graveled Ajo Mountain Drive, one of the best ways to see the park.

Admission to the park is $10 per vehicle. nps. go v. orpi

Montana, Wyoming, Arizona, Utah

LA N DMARKS OF TH E

FRONTIER DISCOVER THE WONDERS OF THE AMERICAN FRONTIER

Yellowstone National Park

Yellowstone is the pride and joy of all American parks. It’s the first of its kind and is home to more large mammals (buffalo, gray wolf, grizzly bear, mountain goat, etc.) than any other place in the continental United States, making it the spot for wildlife viewing. nps.gov/yell Distance from the closest city: The park is enormous, but Old Faithful is about 70 miles from Jackson, Wyoming.

Cost: Admission is $25 per car.

Most popular time of the year to visit: Summer.

Best time of the year to visit: Try something different and get to Yellowstone in the winter. The crowds will be virtually gone, wildlife will be easily visible, and you’ll be able to end a day of touring the park via snowmobile by the fireplace.

Where to stay: Slough Creek Campground. Located in Lamar Valley, it’s in a somewhat remote part of Yellowstone but has some of the park’s best wildlife viewing (nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/sloughck_cg.htm).

Camping is $12 per night.

Monument Valley

Anyone who has watched old Hollywood westerns, particularly those of director John Ford, knows what Monument Valley looks like but probably never knew it by name. Monument Valley’s famous red buttes are iconic images of the American southwest. It is part of the “Grand Circle,” which includes the Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon, Zion, Capitol Reef and several other parks. navajonationparks.org/htm/monumentvalley.htm Distance from the closest city: Monument Valley is located in Utah, near the Four Corners—where New Mexico, Arizona, Colorado and Utah meet—only 150 miles from Flagstaff, Arizona.

Cost: Admission to the park is $5.

Most popular time to visit: Summer and early fall.

Best time of the year to visit: This is the desert and there isn’t much shade, so go to Monument Valley around September, right in between the hot summer and cold fall and winter.

Where To Stay: Monument Valley Campgrounds, operated by the Navajo Tribal Park. Camping is $10 per night.

32

TEXT BY JEREMY DILLAHUNT AND JEFF THROPE

Glacier National Park

Glacier National Park borders the Canadian Border in northern Montana and is home to the unbelievable Going to the Sun Road, a National Historic Civil Engineering landmark that traverses the Continental Divide. nps.gov/glac Distance from the closest city: 150 miles from Missoula, Montana.

Cost: $25 for park admission.

Most popular time of the year to visit: Summer.

Best time of the year to visit: Winter at Glacier can be brutally cold, so stick to the warm months.

Where to stay: Fish Creek Campground. Park rangers host a nightly evening program at the amphitheater at Fish Creek Campground, one of two campgrounds in Glacier that take reservations. A spot is $23 per night. (nps.gov/applications/glac/cgstatus/camping_detail.cfm?cg=Fish Creek)

The Grand Canyon

When it comes to the Grand Canyon, Teddy Roosevelt really nailed it when he said, “Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it, and man can only mar it. What you can do is to keep it for your children, your children’s children and for all who come after you, as one of the great sights which every American should see.” nps.gov/grca Distance from the closest city: The South Rim of the Grand Canyon receives 90 percent of the park’s visitors. That’s where you get the classic views of the canyon. Phoenix, Arizona is 231 miles away, but at 278, Las Vegas, Nevada is just 47 miles more.

Cost: $25 for park fees and car entrance.

Most popular time to visit: Summer.

Best time to visit: As with any National Park, the best time to visit the Grand Canyon is when the tourists go away. The South Rim is open year round, so beat the crowds and the insane heat of summer and wait until the fall when the temperature drops to a reasonable 60 degrees. When the sun starts to set, you’ll have less competition for that perfect picture.

Where to stay: The Bright Angel Lodge (grandcanyonlodges.com).

Built in 1935, the Bright Angel Lodge is located a few feet from the Canyon rim. It’s more rustic than some of the more luxurious accommodations located in the park, which means you’ll save money and be able to buy more sundaes at the lodge’s old fashioned ice cream fountain. Plus, the Bright Angel is a Natural Historic Landmark. Rooms with a private bathroom start at $90.

See what’s going down in Salt Lake City culture at scionav.com/lifestyle/scionmagazine

Bonneville Salt Flats

The Bonneville Salt Flats, a remnant of the ancient Lake Bonneville, are home to Bonneville Speedway, which hosts some of the world’s fastest car racing. Some vehicles have clocked up to 600 miles per hour. bim.gov.ut/st/en/fo/salt_lake/recreation/bonneville_salt_flats.html Distance from the closest city: 115 miles west of Salt Lake City, Utah.

Cost: Admission to the salt flats is free.

Most popular time of the year to visit: August.

Best time of the year to visit: Bonneville Speedway hosts “Speed Week” each August, where racers come from all over the world to compete for the title of fastest car. It’s worth dealing with the crowds to see it.

Where to stay: The KOA Campgrounds in Wendover.

Ten miles from the flats, it will only set you back around $30 per night. (koa.com/where/nv/28130)

The Hoover Dam

The Hoover Dam is located 30 miles south of Las Vegas, towering high above the great Colorado while keeping her tame. When it opened it 1936, the Hoover was the biggest of its kind in the world, but today it’s moved down to the 35th place. The dam has had an enormous environmental impact on the Colorado’s ecosystem, preventing flooding that is imperative to the survival of many plant and animal species. A lot of nature lovers have a difficult relationship with the Hoover Dam and see it as a testament to the modern desire to try and control our environment. usbr.gov/lc/hooverdam

Open from 9AM to 6PM, parking is $7 and admission $11 for each adult.

THE NEON MUSEUM’S BONEYARD

The Neon Museum’s Boneyard is the final resting place of some of Las Vegas’ most iconic signs. Located just north of the Strip where they originally sparkled, more than 150 historic, unrestored signs sit on the three-acre site.

Dating back to the 1930s and up to the present day, many of the signs come from Sin City’s main neon supplier, Young Electric Sign Company (YESCO). YESCO leases the signs out and then donates them to The Neon Museum upon their return. Among the world famous—and dearly departed—landmarks now on view: Caesar’s Palace, Golden Nugget, Moulin Rouge and The Stardust. neonmuseum.org

Tours are available Tuesday to Saturday at noon and 2PM, they must be reserved in advance and cost $15.

Wild Horses & Burro Adoption

Wild horses seem like mythical creatures in this day and age, but they exist, enough so that the Bureau Of Land Management gathers up over a thousand a year and offers them for adoption or sale to those willing to provide humane and long term care. The sale usually goes down in the fall, and though they happen from Maine to Washington, the one in Livingston, Montana helps maintain the land and herd health of the nearly 33,000 wild horses that roam federal property out west. By adopting a horse, you’re not only helping to find a home for a beautiful animal, you’re helping maintain our public lands. nationalwildhorseadoptionday.org

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Music

MONOLITH FESTIVAL

Carved

into

Festival

the

sandstone

landscape of the Rocky Mountains, it’s hard to think of a more jawdropping

background

for

a

concert than the legendary Red Rock Amphiteatre. The geologically formed venue seats nearly 10,000 people and has hosted music events for more than a century. Debuting in 2007, the Monolith Festival is a buzzing alterative rock showcase for bands like Yeah Yeah Yeahs, Of Montreal and Chromeo. It’s also Red Rock’s first ever multi-day, multi-stage event, with 50-plus artists covering

ALTERNATE ROAD TRIP Denver to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Forest, Colorado, instead of to Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado Sure, Rocky Mountain National Park is a nice place to drive to when you finally reach the Centennial State, but for some of the most dizzying views in Colorado, head south from Denver to the less frequented Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. The scenery is insane, the canyons are narrow (40 feet at its narrowest point!), the fly fisherman are plenty, the climbers are some of the best in the world, and if you have a fear of heights, you’ll have plenty of breathtaking reasons to get over it. nps.gov/blca

five stages over two days. Camping is not available, so book a hotel in Denver, just 20 minutes to the west.

monolithfestival.com

After the Art Basel show in Miami a few years ago my girl Keiko and I decided take a road trip and drive back to Los Angeles. Since Keiko is from Brazil, she wanted to see some of the states—places like New Orleans, Austin and Marfa. We had just left Marfa when I got a call from a friend who told us to roll through a town called Bisbee in Arizona and stay at a place called the Shady Dell. Bisbee was an old western mining town during the turn of century and the Shady Dell is a mid-century Americana kitsch time warp. Nestled in the hills of Bisbee, the Dell is a vintage trailer park where you can rent a 1950s Airstream or a Spartan Manor trailer for the night or weekend. These trailers come complete with mid-century televisions, record players, kitchen appliances, dishes and décor. There is even a ’50s diner where you can get a blue plate special.

J. Shea curated the Travel and Document show at the Scion Installation Los Angeles space, scionav.com/art/ installationlosangeles. His art appeared in the Installation 4 and Installation 5 tours, scionav.com/art/installationtour.

2009 Š John Kachik / lindgrensmith.com

T h e M idwest I LL U S T R A T I O N B Y J o h n K a c h i k

Eating Across The Midwest Popping up along the Midwest’s unending highways are unmissable cultural pitstops and

meals you’ll remember for the rest of your life. There are plenty of reasons to take your time as you head across America’s heartland.

F E AT U R E D R O A D T R I P

Eating Across The Midwest

Lu c i a ’ s

S T O RY B Y M A R G A R E T WA P P L E R

Minneapolis is an arty, progressive Midwestern enclave and its eating establishments reflect that character. Chef Lucia Watson, a third-generation Minnesotan, opened her namesake restaurant 24 years ago, and it’s been a mainstay of the Uptown neighborhood ever since. With a weekly menu that relies heavily on seasonal ingredients, chef Watson merges classic French cooking styles with northern heartland rusticity. And when you’re done classing things up at Lucia’s, stay in Uptown and head to Spyhouse, a divey restaurant/bowling alley/theater.

Dining in the Midwest is mostly known for big portions and big calories, there are all kinds of good eating in the region. Sure, it’s OK to indulge in the occasional gutbuster (and listed below are some places where you can definitely do so), but there’s also room for more refined and adventurous meals. So pack up the car and don’t be surprised if you pack on some pounds.

Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday and for brunch on Saturday and Sunday.

luc ias. c om

Breit b a c h ’ s Country D ining

Breitbach’s Country Dining, 15 miles north of Dubuque, is one of Iowa’s oldest restaurants. Founded in 1852 and owned by the Breitbach family for six generations, it’s known for its simple, made-from-scratch Midwest and German-heritage foods. Since 2008, fires have gutted the restaurant twice, but Breitbach’s still manages to rise from the ashes. It reopened once again this past summer to hungry, loyal crowds. In addition to fried chicken, spicy ribs, sauerkraut and sausage, Breitbach’s is acclaimed for its fresh fruit pies. At the outlook just north of the restaurant, catch a view of the Mississippi River Valley.

Open daily. Call 563-552-2220 for restaurant hours.

A R t h ur Bry a nt ’ s B b q

New Yorker columnist Calvin Trillin has called this Kansas City institution “possibly the single best restaurant in the world.” With origins dating back to the early 1920s, it certainly has had its share of famous guests, including Presidents Truman and Carter, Steven Spielberg and Jack Nicholson. The draw is BBQ slow-cooked on a combination of hickory and oak woods, then doused with Original or Rich & Spicy sauce. Other specialties include lard-fried fries. It’s not good for you, but you can try and walk it off by exploring the rest of downtown’s treasures, like the American Jazz Museum.

Open daily.

a rt hur bryants b b q .com

Country L a ne B a k ery

Northeastern Indiana is home to the third-largest Amish community in the country. In addition to the horse and buggies the Amish are known for they also make amazing baked goods. One of the most traditional stops is Country Lane Bakery on a family farm near Middlebury. Lit mostly by gas lamps, the Amish-owned establishment specializes in sticky apricot turnovers, cinnamon rolls and apple butter. In nearby Shipshewana, Yoder’s Meat & Cheese Company offers natural, antibiotic-free beef, pork, lamb, chicken and buffalo.

Country Lane Bakery is open Monday through Saturday, call 574-825-7918 for more information and store hours.

Yoder’s Meat & Cheese Company is open Monday to Saturday.

yodersme atshoppe . c om

38

M a rs ’ C h eese C a st l e

Only in Wisconsin would there be a temple to dairy. Worshipped by locals and tourists alike, Mars’ Cheese Castle is top-to-bottom Badger State kitsch. Need a foamy hat resembling a cheese wedge for the next Packers game? Find it here. Want to get a gluttonous but delicious sausage and cheese platter for the folks? You got it. Located just across from the Illinois border, Mars’ is especially known for cheese curds, a special type of melt-in-your-mouth cheese that hasn’t been salted or pressed into bricks yet. They also do a brisk mail order service, so even when Mars’ is far away in your rearview mirror you can still get your fix.

Open daily.

mars c heese . c om

Zingerm a n ’ s D e l i

Zingerman’s has been called the best deli outside New York City. Started in 1982 by Paul Saginaw and Ari Weinzweig, the Ann Arbor, Michigan institution offers everything from the traditional pastrami on rye bread (baked in house) to Indonesian sea salt and Irish butter.

Perhaps most impressively, they’ve branched out to create a network of Ann Arbor businesses, a model that was praised by Inc. magazine in 2003 as the coolest small company in America. Zingerman’s Roadhouse, two miles down the road from the deli, is one of the jewels of the empire, where whole hog, chicken and brisket are pit-roasted over Michigan hardwood.

Open daily.

zingermansde li. c om

Lu l a C a f é & E dn a ’ s S O U L F O O D

Chicago is a bastion of comfort food done in all styles—from diner-counter simplicity to feasts for the most discerning of gourmands. Lula Café sits near the upper end of that spectrum, but it’s not fussy. The vibe is laidback dinner party. Brunch is a standout, featuring a rotating menu that has included chamomile-custard-stuffed brioche French toast and shrimp enchiladas with pickled vegetables. A couple of miles down the road is Edna’s, a favorite of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., who liked to host planning meetings there. Specialties of this soul food stopover include biscuits, collard green and peach cobbler.

Lula Café is open for all three meals Wednesday to Monday.

lulac af e. c om

Edna’s is open Tuesday to Sunday, call 312-638-7079 for more information.

J e f f R u b y ’ s S te a k h ouse

Cincinnati restaurant impresario Jeff Ruby improves on the Midwestern steakhouse formula by steeping his restaurant in 1940s French Art Deco flair. Located in the heart of the city’s entertainment district, Ruby’s is across the street from the Aronoff Center for the Arts, which was designed by renowned architect Cesar Pelli. Don’t miss out on Ruby’s Mac Daddy & Cheese made with six cheeses and cavatappi pasta, or the 24-ounce bone-in rib steak that’s dry-aged on the premises.

Open for dinner Monday to Saturday.

je ffru b y. c om

Watch Drop the Lime visit his family in Minneapolis at scionav.com/lifestyle/scionmagazine

e h T ’ n i t Hit !!

Road!

N CO

TA I N S

D GOOT I O N

INFORMA

Lewis & Clark Trail

Stretching more than 4,600 miles from Washington D.C. to Washington state, the Lewis & Clark Trail reaches one of its high points in Missouri.

The pinnacle is the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial in St. Louis, but deeper in the state is Bellefontaine Cemetery, where Clark himself is buried. lewisandclarktrail.com

Landmarks of the Midwest

Distance from the closest city: Pick it up in St. Louis and follow it along the Missouri River out of the state.

Cost: Much of the Lewis & Clark Trail passes through the Missouri state park system, which does not charge entrance fees.

Most popular time to visit: Late spring and early summer.

Best time of the year to visit: Early fall for the turning leaves.

Where to stay: Iron Horse Hotel in Blackwater, Missouri (ironhorsehotel.com). This small, restored 1880s railroad hotel has fine dining, gardens, ten unique guest rooms, and quaint atmosphere to spare. Call 660-846-3001 for rates.

The Gateway Arch

At 630 feet tall, St. Louis’ gateway to the west is the tallest man-made monument in the country. From the observation area you can look out over the Mississippi River and at the visitors’ center’s Museum of Western Expansion you can expand your mind. gatewayarch.com Distance from the closest city: Located in St. Louis.

Cost: $7 for a tram ticket to the observation area.

Most popular time to visit: Summer.

Best time of the year to visit: In spring at the start of the baseball season, so you can also take in a game at Busch Stadium.

Where to stay: The Millennium Hotel (mileniumhotels.com). Within walking distance to Busch Stadium, Old Cathedral, Laciede’s Landing, and President Casino, the Millennium Hotel is in the heart of downtown. Rooms start at $129 a night.

South Dakota, Wisconsin, Missouri 40

Mt. Rushmore

The iconic carvings of Thomas Jefferson, George Washington, Abraham Lincoln, and Theodore Roosevelt are impressive (and were mostly done with dynamite), but the surroundings are equally spectacular. Nearby is the Crazy Horse Memorial, and the Black Hills are rich with canyons, pine-covered slopes and windswept peaks. nps.gov/moru Distance from the closest city: 18 miles from Rapid City, South Dakota.

Cost: Admission is free, parking is $10.

Most popular time to visit: Summer.

Best time of the year to visit: July 3, for the fireworks display.

Where to stay: Historic Franklin Hotel in Deadwood (silveradofranklin.com).

Theodore Roosevelt, William Taft, John Wayne, Buffalo Bill Cody, and Babe Ruth were among the Franklin’s guests in its heyday. The restored hotel now features woodwork and fluted columns that match early photographs of the lobby and several other vintage touches. Rooms start at $89 per night.

Wisconsin Dells

The Dells area in Southeastern Wisconsin is a watery wonderland, with more than 20 outdoor and indoor water parks. Other attractions include Wisconsin River boat tours, golfing, go-karting and a host of oddball venues, like the Tommy Bartlett Exploratory, which boasts more than 150 interactive activities about science, technology and space. wisdells.com Distance from the closest city: 40 miles from Madison, Wisconsin.

Cost: A city pass to see 14 attractions costs $84.

Most popular time to visit: July and August.

Best time of the year to visit: Mid-week in September. It’ll still be hot, but with school in session, the crowds should be thinner.

Where to stay: Chula Vista Resort (chulavistaresort.com). Located three miles north of downtown Wisconsin Dells, the sprawling Chula Vista is tucked into the cliffs and pines of the Wisconsin River. Rooms start at $139 a night.

Badlands

This spooky landscape of jagged rocks and plunging crevices is best experienced at sunset or sunrise, when the shadows are most dramatic.

Bison and black-footed ferrets roam the area, not to mention prairie falcons and all types of snakes. nps.gov/badl Distance from the closest city: 80 miles from Rapid City, South Dakota.

Cost: $10.00 per car for a seven day pass.

Most popular time to visit: Summer.

Best time of the year to visit: May, during wildflower season.

Where to stay: Cedar Pass Lodge (cedarpasslodge.com). The authentic but no frills Lodge first opened for business in 1928. The cabins don’t have TVs or telephones. Try the homemade Indian fry bread or buffalo tacos at the restaurant. A cabin with a private bath is $85 per night.

Iowa State Fair

DOCTOR BONDS DENTAL SERVICE

A state fair should be like a flea market: have something for everyone, be cheap enough for the whole family and stay endearingly ragtag. The Iowa State Fair, usually held in August, is one of the Midwest’s most glorious. With nearly 200 food stands, the Iowa State Fair offers more than 50 snacks on a stick, including deep fried Twinkies and the traditional corn dog. Of course, no state fair would be complete without contests of all kinds, with competitions in spelling, hair braiding, chess, the banjo and twin and triplets contest. If you want to play it more low key, there’s also the quite pleasant demolition derby. iowastatefair.org

Grounds are open from 7AM to 1AM, and admission is $10.

Motown Historical Museum

From Stevie Wonder to The Supremes to The Jackson 5, some of the world’s greatest musicians recorded in Berry Gordy Jr.’s small house in Detroit, Michigan. Using an $800 loan from his family, Gordy founded Motown Records in a two-story row house in 1960 that was soon dubbed Hitsville USA. Now the home has been fully restored into the Motown Historical Museum, which displays stage uniforms, sheet music and other historic paraphenilia. Visitors can also peek into Studio A, where Marvin Gaye recorded What’s Going On, and test out the pre-reverb echo chamber (a hole in the ceiling) that was used to create the signature Motown Sound. motownmuseum.com

Open Tuesday to Saturday, 10AM to 6PM, admission is $10, guided tours included.

The Corn Palace

Colorado may have its towering peaks, Oregon its lush forests, Florida its white sand beaches, but South Dakota has a monument to agriculture with an exterior made of thousands of bushels of native corn, grain and grasses shaped into large murals depicting America’s great destinations. The Corn Palace in Mitchell is truly a standout in the Midwest’s many monuments to kitsch. This shrine to prairie gold is not only how the locals show off their bountiful harvest, it’s also an auditorium for nationally touring entertainment. cornpalace.com

Hours shift depending on time of year, but admission is free.

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Music

CHICAGO POWERFEST

Festival

A magnet to all things metal, Illinois’ Powerfest celebrates the heavier end of rock. Charmingly named bands like Swashbuckle, Assailant and Mindwarp Chamber share the stage at The Pearl Room, a hard rock den in the Chicago suburb of Mokena. The kick-off night is Friday and then Powerfest rages over an entire weekend, usually in May. The afterparties serve as networking events for Midwestern metalheads seeking connections around the U.S.A. and beyond. It’s all affordable

ALTERNATE ROAD TRIP Chicago to Mackinac Island, Michigan instead of to the Wisconsin Dells, Wisconsin With dozens of water parks, the Wisconsin Dells is a classic getaway, but the true escape from the daily grind can better be found on Michigan’s Mackinac Island.

Since 1898, cars have been banned from Mackinac to encourage tourism, so today all travel is by horse or bicycle. Hovering just north of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula in Lake Huron, the island is reached by ferry. Travel the eight-mile shoreline trail to capture the full breadth of this former Native American settlement. mackinacisland.org The ferry costs $21 per adult.

too, with single-day pass maxing out at $30.

chicagopowerfest.com

People think that being on the road is all rock star antics and throwing plasma TVs out of windows, but for the most part, when you’re touring it’s all about getting a proper meal. On a tour that took us through Kansas City, me and Eli Escobar had the craziest BBQ I’ve ever tasted in my life.

We went directly from the airport to Oklahoma Joe’s, this BBQ spot in the back of a grimy gas station that’s in the middle of nowhere. From the look of it, it’s the last place that I would really want to eat, but I’m glad I went.

Most ridiculous BBQ I ever had, no question. I waited in a long line to grab my plate of ribs and brisket and proceeded to kill it sitting shotgun in the parking lot. It gave me the after-Thanksgiving feeling for the next few hours. Definitely worth the trip, although the homies sharing the stage with me that night might have disagreed.

Cosmo Baker mixed Scion CD Sampler Vol. 15 with DJ Ayres, another member of The Rub. Listen to Scion CD samplers at scionav.com/music/scioncdsamplers.

2009 Š Jonny Mendelsson / lindgrensmith.com

T h e S out h I LL U S T R A T I O N B Y J onny M ende l sson

The South’s Musical Legacy

When traveling through the South there is good music, good eating, good deals and good people. Throw in some wild scenery and the occasional gothic cemetery and you’re guaranteed an unforgettable adventure.

f e a tured ro a d trip

The South’s Musical Legacy S T O R Y B Y J eremy D i l l a h unt

The American South—a region once described as the “sow belly” by blues master Son House—is undoubtedly the root of so much of the music we listen to now. Just 14 or so songs by Robert Johnson lay the foundation for soul, R&B, rock, boogie and funk. In turn, those sounds gave birth to hip hop, techno, house and so on. But much better than talking about music is experiencing it, and the following are must-see destinations to celebrate the South’s contribution.

M emphis, Tennessee

Graceland

From the white terracotta monkeys and the peacock stained-glass windows to the indoor waterfall, Graceland is a miracle of taste. Elvis Presley lived here for more than 20 years—from the height of his fame to his death in 1977—and recorded much of his later work in the mansion’s music studio. Via guided tours, visitors can experience a firsthand glimpse of the over-the-top aesthetic that informed the King’s infamous stage costumes and sprawling sonic identity.

Tours available daily. Check the website for holiday closures. e lv is. c om

Stax Museum

From 1960 to 1975, Stax Records introduced the world to soul and R&B giants Otis Redding, Sam & Dave, Isaac Hayes, Booker T. & the MGs, Wilson Pickett and many more. Not only did this remarkable collection of talent rework the musical landscape, but the Stax catalog also provided what would become staple sample material for hip hop, breaks and house music. Located at the record label’s former headquarters, the Stax Museum is home to the famous Studio A—where artists including Carla Thomas and Ike Turner recorded—and memorabilia including the organ Booker T. played on “Green Onions” and Tina Turner’s gold lamé miniskirt.

Tours available daily. sou l s v i l l eus a.com

Gibson Guitar Factory

Gibson guitars tell the story of innovative guitarmaking over the past 100 years: the Les Paul, the Flying V, the Lucile, the Flametop Sunburst and the Wes Montgomery.

The company’s Memphis showroom tells much of this history and allows players to test out the wares. But the real fun—for guitar, music and woodworking nerds—is on the factory floor, one block south, where tours take visitors through the complex process of assembling a Gibson. Call ahead to find out if there is a master luthier (a fancy word for a stringed-instrument maker) present; if so, he can answer questions about the history of the company, guitarmaking and Gibson lore.

Tours available daily. gi b son . c om /en-us /Loc ations/FactoryTours

Beale Street

After the Civil War, Beale Street gained a reputation for its dedication to music, libation and the sporting life.

Artists including Louis Armstrong, Muddy Waters, Albert King, Memphis Minnie, B.B. King and Rufus Thomas settled in Beale haunts for so long that they helped create the musical style know known as the Memphis Blues.

Currently more than 25 clubs are crammed into four city blocks, and musicians ranging from locals to legends play the venues every night of the week.

Austin, Te xa s

South Congress Avenue

The center point of the infamous South By Southwest Festival, Congress Avenue is also offers one of the most vibrant stretches of music in the U.S. during any time of the year. Dozens of nightclubs line Congress’ sidewalks and tributary streets. One of the most notable spots is the Continental Club, a staple since 1957 that has hosted Stevie Ray Vaughn, Wanda Jackson and the Cobras, among many others. At the start of every month, Congress Avenue hosts First Thursday, which essentially turns the thoroughfare into a night-long block party.

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S h effie ld, Al abama

Muscle Shoals Sound Studios

The Swampers, a Deep South rhythm section that backed up almost as many hits as Motown’s the Funk Brothers, played most of their days in a nondescript building identified as 3614 Jackson Highway, better known as Muscle Shoals Sound Studios. One day back in 1971, Mick Jagger wrote “Wild Horses” while holed up in the bathroom. (The bathroom’s door still features the signatures of Wilson Pickett, Cat Stevens and Wayne Perkins.) Originally a casket factory, the building was slated for demolition until it was purchased in 1999 by a Chicago transplant named Noel Webster, who was looking to create a personal studio. Upon learning its history and those who recorded in it—Aretha Franklin, Paul Simon and Willie Nelson to name a few—he rehabbed it and now offers tours.

For information, call 256-783-2641. musc l esho a l ssound .org

N a s h vi lle , Tennessee

Ryman Auditorium

Though the Grand Ole Opry no longer calls the Ryman its home (the venerable institution, now more formally known as the Gaylord Opryland Resort and Convention Center, moved to its own digs a few miles down the road), there is hardly a more storied place in America to see live music. Originally constructed as a revivalist church, the Ryman transformed into a lecture hall and concert center over the course of its 113-year life. It has hosted Charlie Chaplin, Rudolph Valentino, W.C. Fields and many more. Currently, the Ryman features shows from craggly pioneers like Merle Haggard and dandy upstarts like The Decemberists. Sometimes, you get both kinds of acts on the same night, as when Nashville transplant Jack White joined Bob Dylan for a song on the legendary stage. ryman. c om

C l a rksdal e, Mississippi Ike Turner, Sam Cooke, John Lee Hooker and Muddy Waters all left Clarksdale, Mississippi to go onto fame and influence. Still, this town of 20,000 people remains largely unrecognized as a crucible of American music. Except for Morgan Freeman’s polished Ground Zero Blues Club, the town’s music venues trend more towards juke joints like Red’s, a blowover shack that’s barely able to withstand the amplifiers inside. About two miles from Clarksdale is the Old 8 Crossroads, maybe the most important and notorious intersection in American music history. Music historians have speculated that if Robert Johnson did indeed sell his soul to the devil to become the world’s greatest blues musician, he would have done it here.

Johnson’s family lived on Dockery Farms, and nearby Dockery Road intersects the Old 8 Highway, a dirt road that runs parallel to Route 8, connecting the Mississippi towns of Cleveland and Ruleville.

Augusta , G eorgi a

James Brown Sites

James Brown lived in Augusta for more than 40 years and his imprint is all over the city just as it’s all over modern music. There is a boulevard named after him, and in 2003, the city government erected a solid bronze statue of their favorite son—caped, clutching a microphone stand and smiling. Sadly, that statue is now a memorial to the man since his death on Christmas in 2006. Fans can pay their respects to Brown’s on James Brown Boulevard between 8th and 9th Streets before heading over to the James Brown Arena, where national acts play.

New O rleans , Louisiana

Preservation Hall of New Orleans

As the swinging 1950s turned into the rock & roll 1960s, many feared that jazz might fall by the wayside. This issue was a major concern of Alan and Sandra Jaffe, Philadelphia transplants and jazz aficionados. The couple created the Preservation Hall of New Orleans, an organization dedicated to maintaining the unique musical style of New Orleans jazz. The living museum they started 45 years ago now features live music seven nights a week (that includes holidays, which are particularly popular). The Hall’s own Jazz Band holds things down most evenings and visitors can also catch jazz legends like Leroy Jones or Thais Clark throughout the month.

Doors open at 8PM, music begins at 8:15PM seven nights a week. preservation ha l l .com

Texas, Tennessee, North Carolina, South Carolina, Florida

Big Bend National Park

Straddling the U.S./Mexico border, and bisected by the Rio Grande River, Texas’ Big Bend National Park is the place to live out your John Wayne/ tumbleweeds/cow skull desert fantasies. Architectural finds here date back as far as 9000 years. nps.gov/bibe Distance from the closest city: 146 miles from Marfa, Texas or 340 miles from El Paso, Texas.

Cost: $20 for a 7-day pass to the park.

Most popular time of the year to visit: March.

Best time of the year to visit: October, when the heat finally ebbs but the skies are crystal clear.

Where to stay: Chisos Mining Company Motel. This desert outpost, steeped in casual South Texas hospitality, is a perfectly situated homebase for exploring Big Bend National Park. Rooms start at $58 per night. (www.cmcm.cc/big_bend_lodging_001.htm) Ten Bits Ranch. This secluded B&B offers unparalleled views of the stars. (tenbitsranch.com) Rooms start at $129 per night.

The Blue Ridge Parkway

With a maximum speed limit of 45 MPH, it’s slow going on the winding, ear-popping Blue Ridge Parkway, but that just means more time to take in the unbelievable panoramic views. This 469-mile mountain road spans Virginia and North Carolina. blueridgeparkway.org Distance in miles from the closest city: Asheville, North Carolina is located at the southern base of the Parkway.

Most popular time of the year to visit: Spring and summer.

Best time of the year to visit: Fall, when the foliage is ablaze with color.

Where to stay: The Grove Park Inn (groveparkinn.com). Relaxing in front of the historic Grove Park’s enormous fireplace alone justifies the price of admission.

The spa and terrific service are just gravy.

Rooms start at $275 per night.

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Charleston, South Carolina

Home of sprawling antebellum plantations and Gone With the Wind hero Rhett Butler, Charleston was once a booming American port and a focal point of the Civil War. Far from a relic, though, modern day Charleston has emerged as a popular destination for sports nuts who make the pilgrimage to check out professional soccer and minor league baseball teams, as well as regular rugby, golf and tennis tournaments. charlestoncvb.com Distance in miles from the closest city: 106 miles to Savannah, Georgia.

Most popular time of the year to visit: Spring.

Best time of the year to visit: April and May, when sporting seasons overlap but before the heat hits hard.

Where to stay: Vendue Inn (vendueinn.net). Classy from start to finish, the throwback Vendue traffics in old-time Southern charm.

Rooms start at $175 per night.

The Appalachian Trail

Snaking from Maine all the way down to Georgia, the Appalachian Trail crescendos when it hits Virginia’s Shenandoah National Park, Tennessee’s Clingman’s Dome (the Trail’s highest peak) and North Carolina’s Blue Ridge Mountains. appalachiantrail.org Distance from the closest city: Gatlinburg, Tennessee is about 10 miles from Clingman’s Dome. The Max Patch summit—near Hot Springs, North Carolina—is 40 miles west of Asheville, North Carolina.

Cost: Free.

Most popular time of the year to visit: Spring.

Best time of the year to visit: April through June, when the spring flora is abloom.

Where to stay: Park Vista Resort Hotel (parkvista.com). It’s older than most hotels, but comfortable, and sits in a prime location between the Smoky Mountains and downtown Gatlinburg.

Rooms start at $182 per person.

The Everglades National Park

Mosquitoes, crocodiles, swamps and heat make a classic recipe for adventure. The raw, overgrown wilderness of the Everglades teems with lush plants and subtropical wildlife. nps.gov/ever Distance from the closest city: 45 miles from Miami, Florida.

Cost: $10 for a seven-day pass to the park.

Most popular time of the year to visit: December through April.

Best time of the year to visit: February, one of the mildest times of year, with minimal humidity.

Where to stay: Prince of Homestead Inn (theinnofhomestead.com).

Barebones and inexpensive but totally serviceable, Homestead offers cost-effective proximity to the wilds of the Everglades.

Rooms start at $105 per night.

Hear what the Unclaimed Baggage Center won’t sell at scionav.com/lifestyle/scionmagazine

The Unclaimed Baggage Center

Chances are, at some point in your life an airline has misplaced your luggage. The odds are much lower that you’ve elected not to collect it.

But strangely, this happens more often than you might think. Every year mountains of those abandoned suitcases end up in Scottsboro, Alabama, home to the country’s only unclaimed baggage emporium. Literally a warehouse full of other people’s stuff, the U.B.C. stocks jewelry, clothes, electronics, sporting equipment, books and other items, all for 20 to 80 percent off their retail cost. This private, for-profit venture offers untold riches, if you can get past the unsettling mystery of what became of the original owners. unclaimedbaggage.com Open Monday to Friday, 9AM to 6PM, Saturdays 8AM to 6PM.

St. Louis Cemetery 1

Things may be a little dodgy in the surrounding neighborhood, but it’s still worth it to take a daytime trip just outside of the French Quarter to get a solid dose of southern-gothic weirdness at St. Louis Cemetery 1, New Orleans’ oldest burial ground. The mausoleums (since New Orleans is below sea level, aboveground tombs are the custom) and statuary straddle the line between lovely and macabre, and several operators around the city offer tours—a safe way to explore the site. St. Louis provided the backdrop for the psychedelic peak at the end of Easy Rider, and voodoo priestess Marie Laveau and civil rights figure Homer Plessy were laid to rest here as well. saveourcemeteries.org The Save Our Cemeteries tour costs $12 per adult.

Basin St. at Saint Louis St., New Orleans, Louisiana.

South of the Border

If you’re coming off several straight hours on the road and are in a fragile state of mind, the giant Sombrero Tower, scores of gift shops hawking knickknacks, RV parks and fried foods on offer at the South of the Border tourist trap could send you into a descending mind spiral. Then again, the 24hour Mexico-themed complex con queso—located in Dillon, just over the state border in the northeast corner of South Carolina—could strike the note of levity you need to get through an otherwise drab stretch of I-95.

Play a round of miniature golf, get married in the wedding chapel, stock up on fireworks, cram a chimichanga down your throat and take the glass elevator to the top of the sombrero. southoftheborder.com Open 24/7.

Smitty’s Jukebox Museum

After Leo Schmitt returned home in 1945 from service in World War II, he settled in Pharr, near the southernmost tip of Texas. There he launched a business setting up and installing coin-operated machines. When he came across an unusual jukebox, he’d buy it, bring it back to his warehouse in an old movie theater and restore it. Today, hundreds of Schmitt’s jukeboxes are displayed in this word-of-mouth museum, including a Wurlitzer from 1950 (with a classic playlist from the likes of Glenn Miller and Benny Goodman) that’s valued at $60,000. The business is now run by Leo’s son, Leo “Smitty” Schmitt Jr., and grandson, Leo Schmitt III, who are still adding to the collection.

Visitors can tour the museum for free from 9:30AM to 5PM, Monday through Friday.

Email Smitty at rgvcc@sbcglobal.net or svtcobra2855@yahoo.com

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Music

GONER FES T

Festival

For four days in late-September, the home of B.B. King and Elvis hosts garage rock bands from around the world. Goner Fest— sponsored by Memphis, Tennessee’s indie record store and label Goner Records—started six years ago to showcase groups associated with the label, but has since been opened up to bands from as far away as Puerto Rico and France. While not stylistically restricted to the 1960s sound, Goner Fest heavily weights its lineup with the inheritors of the tight pants and three chords legacy of The Kingsmen, The Kinks, The Wailers and others. There’s a range

ALTERNATE ROAD TRIP Atlanta, Georgia to Gulfport, Mississippi instead of to New Orleans, Louisiana When ATLiens want to skip town, the obvious destination has long been New Orleans, which offers seedy, vice-based decompression. The Gulf Coast of Mississippi, however, presents an alternative. Though the area was hit hard by Katrina, the stretch along I-10 running from Waveland to Biloxi remains a popular regional destination for golfers (hence its punnerific nickname, the Golf Coast), Spring Breakers and beach heads of every stripe. Live large by staying at Steve Wynn’s Beau Rivage (beaurivage.com) hotel/casino hybrid in Biloxi and dining at Mary Mahoney’s (marymahoneys.com), a local institution. Or lay low at the Super 8 in Gulfport (228-896-7307) and subsist on fried seafood from the Blow Fly Inn (blowflyinn.com). It’s your call.

in available ticket prices, where $50 brings an all-access Gold Pass and a $10 special gets a Saturday blowout with 13 bands and BBQ.

gonerfest.com

In the fall of 2005 I was on a bus going across North America with Kanye West for the Touch The Sky tour,. I never celebrated Thanksgiving growing up because, well, I’m Canadian. When Thanksgiving came, we were in the middle of a long drive from Memphis to Houston. Kanye flew out to be with his family, but most of us were just left to figure something out on the bus. Our driver suggested we make a little detour through Louisiana to have dinner with his daughter and her family. I had one of my first Thanksgiving dinners in Natchez, Louisiana with the bus driver’s family, our wardrobe girl and a bunch of rappers. Here’s to Southern hospitality!

A-Trak is a DJ, producer and the co-founder of Fool’s Gold Records.

Listen to Scion CD Sampler Vol. 22: Fool’s Golds Remixed at scionav.com/music/scioncdsamplers.

2009 Š Twenty Four Seven / lindgrensmith.com

T h e N ort h e a st I LL U S T R A T I O N B Y T wenty Four S e v en

Classic Hotels in the Northeast’s Vacationland

People have been vacationing in the Northeast for years, so they know how to do it right. The hotels are classic and the camping is plentiful, so when you add in lobster fresh from the Atlantic and crabs from the Chesapeake Bay it’s tough to think of a reason to go back to business.

F E AT U R E D R O A D T R I P Classic Hotels in the Northeast’s Vacationland STORY BY DANIEL ARNOLD The gritty cities of the East offer plenty of cheap thrills and spot-lit screams, but sitting in Manhattan traffic, no matter how musical, is no place for a road warrior like you. Sure, you should make time to pass through the Atlantic seaboard’s urban hubs, but you’d be a fool to miss the open road available at every city’s limits. Truck up the northern half of Route 1 and feed your soul with the country’s most astounding landmarks and curious roadside stops, then treat yourself to a stay at some this country’s most historic hotels.

Th e Ro xb ury

Indulge your kitschy inner artist with a weekend at the Roxbury, a Catskills boutique motel.

Located in the New York hamlet of the same name, the affordably quirky roadside stop pays tribute to the golden age of American entertainment (and Catskills vacationing) with elaborately decorated theme rooms. Step into the Jetsons’ space lair, the Flintstones’ cave, or Austin Powers’ mod getaway for a truly transportive experience. Between naps in your Genie’s Lamp lodgings, stop by the spa for a deep tissue massage or the lounge for an alternate way to relax.

Rooms range from $99 to $300 per night. therox b urymotel.com

Sk ytop Lodge

Jeans, T-shirts, hats and “pool attire” are not permitted in the Skytop Lodge’s dining rooms, so come correct. Anything less than your best jacket and slacks would be undignified at this ferociously distinguished stone palace, where reservations include three meals a day.

Nestled on 5,500 acres of forest at the base of the Pennsylvania Poconos’ West Mountain, the Skytop satisfies the most discerning desires with its uncompromised privacy and stunning natural vistas. Take it all in like they did back in the day: straight, with filet mignon to chase.

Rooms range from $310 to $550 per night. s kytop. com

T he Hotel M a comb er

Ever thought about going to see some dolphins? Ever thought about doing it in New Jersey? We’re serious. Cape May, on the southernmost tip of New Jersey, boasts the same oceanic attractions of Florida, and Hotel Macomber is its grandest asset. Distinguished by immaculate, ocean-facing suites, the shingled mansion is the perfect homebase for your seaside adventures. Tour the beach on a rented bike, wear yourself out in the waves, hang ten while high-fiving dolphins (not literally) and then retire to your turn-of-the-century room for some much needed R&R. Rooms range from $75 to $275 per night. hote lm ac om ber .c om

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Th e Sa g a more Hote l

The Sagamore Hotel’s history reads like an axeless, family-oriented version of The Shining.

Over the past 100-odd years, the Lake George resort (which takes its name from a Native American chief in James Fenimore Cooper’s The Last Of The Mohicans) has played host to movie stars, presidents and royalty. The disarmingly handsome lakeside sprawl, situated on the majestic Adirondack range, has also survived two fires and at least as many bleak economies.

Stop in for a night or two to dine, unwind and explore the area’s network of uninhabited islands, all while sleeping among some of America’s most prominent ghosts.

Rooms range from $255 to $700 per night. thesagamore . c om

Harbor View Hote l & Resort

While the name Martha’s Vineyard may evoke the world’s most precious East Coaster honeymoon destination, the island is not all silk and roses. Hitch a ferry from Woods Hole and check into Harbor View Hotel & Resort, the stately pride of Edgartown, Massachusetts, where you not only can hit the beach after long days of yoga, but also hike the saltwatersprayed Long Point Wildlife Refuge, kayak past the weathered lighthouse and touch ancient harpoons at Martha’s Vineyard Historical Society. And if all that’s still too quaint for you, then ditch the whaling village for nearby Chilmark and pay homage at John Belushi’s grave.

Rooms range from $350 to $1800 per night. ha r bor- v iew.com

T h e Chanl er at Cl iff Wa lk

At the head of Rhode Island’s Cliff Walk—a dramatic threeand-a-half-mile scramble with Newport’s most enviable backyards on one side and a rocky, 70-foot drop into the Sound on the other—stands the dazzlingly elegant Chanler estate. This Victorian mansion, where each gothic chamber is decorated in the style of a different time period, was the first built on a stretch that is now known as Millionaires’ Row. Unparalleled comforts, like butler-drawn rose petal baths and private saunas, stand in sharp contrast to the surrounding landscape’s severe beauty.

Rooms range from $309 to $1399. t hec h an l er. com

MAINE, MASSACHUSETTS, MARYLAND, NEW YORK

ACADIA NATIONAL PARK

Follow the crowd to Thunder Hole to watch the ocean blow 30foot vertical sprays in its battle with the coast, then to Cadillac Mountain for the country’s first glimpse of every morning’s sunrise.

Leave the crowds behind when you hit Maine’s nearby Route 1, an essential East coast byway that’ll carry your road trip as far south as Key West, or as far north as the Canadian Provinces. nps.gov/acad DISTANCE FROM THE CLOSEST CITY: 161 miles from Portland, Maine.

COST: A seven-day vehicle pass is $20.

MOST POPULAR TIME TO VISIT: The summer and October.

Best time to visit: In early September, a lull in tourism creates a quiet environment for appreciating the foliage just before it starts to turn.

WHERE TO STAY: Bar Harbor Grand Hotel (barharborgrand.com). If the in-park campsites are too rustic for your tastes, check into this hotel for maximum comfort and convenience. Room rates change depending on the time of year and the number of guests, but range between $89 and $225 per night.

CAPE COD

Two-for-one lobster deals. What more do you need to know? Cape Cod in Massachusetts is an unimaginably beautiful seaside paradise where reality doesn’t make the guest list. nps.gov/caco DISTANCE FROM THE CLOSEST CITY: 71 miles from Boston.

Cost: Cape Cod beaches charge $15 per vehicle for a day pass.

MOST POPULAR TIME TO VISIT: Memorial Day, July, and August.

BEST TIME TO VISIT: Cape Cod is a bustling hub of tourism. To beat the crowds, visit in late May, early June or October. Avoid the weekends, if possible.

WHERE TO STAY: Seaside (seasidecapecod.com). This cluster of 42 private cottages offers a charming and affordable alternative to ordinary accommodations. Rooms start at $79 during the off-season, $150 during the peak summer months.

Text by Daniel Arnold and Jeremy Dillahunt

56

CHESAPEAKE BAY

Charter a skipjack—Maryland’s signature sail-powered workboat— and haul in your own bounty of rockfish and king crab. Later, shuck and suck the freshest oysters available while your catch roasts over a beach fire. nps.gov/cbpo

Niagara Falls: New York State Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation

DISTANCE FROM THE CLOSEST CITY: The Chesapeake Bay can be accessed directly in Baltimore and Annapolis, Maryland.

COST: There are more than 150 entrance points to the Chesapeake Bay Gateways Network, most of which charge less than $10 for entry.

MOST POPULAR TIME TO VISIT: Crab season (June through August).

BEST TIME TO VISIT: Crab season. They’re that good.

WHERE TO STAY: Chesapeake Beach Resort & Spa (chesapeakebeachresortspa.com). Enjoy all the amenities of a luxury hotel from your waterfront balcony. Rooms start at $130.

NIAGARA FALLS

If space travel was feasible and affordable, would you pass on it just because the lines were long? Would you say, “Oh, everybody goes there. Who needs it?” Of course not. Go to Niagara Falls.

It’s called a wonder for a reason. And don’t miss the caves.

DISTANCE FROM THE CLOSEST CITY: 406 miles from New York City.

COST: Entry to Niagara Falls National Heritage Area is free.

Most popular time to visit: Summer.

BEST TIME TO VISIT: The best weather and thinnest crowds can be found on weekdays in late May or early September.

WHERE TO STAY: Stone Boutique Suites (stoneboutiquesuites.com).

Check in here for all the comforts of home. Rooms start at $105 per night.

WOODSTOCK

Although the town of Woodstock was not actually the site of the 1969 festival that borrowed its name, it’s still thick with a fog of incense, icons sewn into tapestries and weathered hippie leftovers from the era that made it famous. Skip the head shops and hit the flea market. Then take advantage of Woodstock’s ideal location as a base for exploring the Catskills. woodstockny.org DISTANCE FROM THE CLOSEST CITY: 90 miles from New York City.

COST: Free.

MOST POPULAR TIME TO VISIT: Summer.

BEST TIME TO VISIT: Woodstock’s a laidback beauty all year round, but not many places can deliver the smalltown E.T. magic of Halloween like the Catskills can.

WHERE TO STAY: Rent a weekend home on Craigslist (hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/vac).

Learn more about beach camping in Long Island at scionav.com/lifestyle/scionmagazine

With its detailed and reverent dedication to America’s favorite pastime, the renowned Baseball Hall of Fame Museum is good for at least two days worth of entertainment. But even if your name is Pete Rose and you can’t get into the Hall, there’s plenty to do around Cooperstown to take your mind off your mistakes. Not only can you have a catch with Kevin Costner (if he happens to be around) at Abner Doubleday Field, but there’s also an incredible state park and campground by the name of Glimmer Glass to satisfy your nature fetish between innings. Whaddya say, slugger? baseballhalloffame.org

Open daily from 9AM to 9PM in the summer, and 9AM to 5PM in the off-season. Adult admission is $16.50.

BANNERMAN ISLAND

It used to be that the ruins of military collector Frank Bannerman’s island armory were so overrun with poison ivy, snakes and deer ticks that access was limited to daredevils and vandals with kayaks. You can imagine what that did for the mystique of this allegedly haunted landmark, once home to the world’s largest weapon collection. Since 2004, the Scottish castle that lords over New York’s Hudson River Gap between West Point and Cold Spring has been weeded, de-snaked and opened (on a limited basis) to the public, but it is no less menacing or grand. Ride out to the island on a guided tour or peer over the castle walls from a cautious distance, astride the spine of nearby Breakneck Ridge. bannermancastle.org/news.html#tours

Bannerman Island tours are available through several third-party operators for about $30.

Statue of Liberty

I grew up the oldest of six kids, so when my siblings were babies and my parents had their hands full, I had loads of alone time with nobody watching. Maybe it was those rarified conditions that drove me to read a novelization of Ghostbusters II before I saw the movie. Maybe I was just a weirdo. Whatever the case, that Jackie Wilson-fueled scene where the Statue of Liberty wades across New York Harbor stuck me deeper than most, I’d imagine. The impact was so deep, in fact, that when I finally made it out to Liberty Island a few summers later, I was indignant with my parents for buying the round trip ferry tickets so we could take in this enduring symbol of hope. I figured, as long as we were there, why not have her walk us back? nps.gov/stli

The Statue Of Liberty is open from 8:30AM to 6:15PM. Entrance is free, but the ferry costs $12 per adult.

58

Baseball Hall Of Fame: Milo Stewart Jr./National Baseball Hall of Fame Library

Baseball Hall of Fame

Music

Festival

AT P NEW YORK

London-based

promoters

All

Tomorrow’s Parties have made a few U.S. journeys over the years, but they found their American niche in 2008 when they started this three-day festival in The Catskills at Kutshers Country Club in Monticello, New York. One day of the three day festival is curated by an individual, band,

artist,

or

organization—

the first two were handled by My Bloody Valentine and The Flaming Lips—and is meant to reflect their tastes. The lineups typically go deep and get weird with the indie world, bringing

out

Collective,

acts

The

like

Animal

Boredoms

and

Crystal Castles. Visitors can stay on-site at Kutshers (the sprawling grounds—complete

with

pools,

tennis courts, a golf course, a lake, a health club, and a nightclub— have

a

classic,

vibe),

in

nearby

Dirty

ALTERNATE ROAD TRIP New York City, New York to Robert Moses St. Park, New York instead of to The Hamptons, New York The Long Island Railroad takes you as far Patchogue. From there, catch the Watch Hill Ferry across the Great South Bay and its salty breeze. The ride ends at the foot of Fire Island’s High Dune Wilderness, a skinny wonder, where you hoof it inland over sand hills draped in knotweed, alongside a sunken forest of black gum and oak trees, to your $20 campsite. In a mile or so, you’re alone with the Atlantic. Around sunrise, tucked into the dunes, think back to an argument you had with a colleague who’d thumbed her nose at Fire Island and its endangered ospreys, black skimmers, and piping plovers. “Endangered means there’s like 5000 of them, right? There’s only ONE Diddy, and he’s in the Hamptons.” You had to concede that point, but laugh to yourself now and answer to nobody, “Sure, but does he perch on your tent poles and sing you awake?” nps.gov/fiis/planyourvisit/fireislandwilderness.htm

Dancing

accomodations

with shuttle buses, or (the best bet) rented cabins from Craigslist.

atpfestival.com

Providence, Rhode Island has cuisine that belies its size, partly due to the culinary school at Johnson & Wales. I’ve had too many great meals in Providence to count, but by far my favorite place to eat is Nick’s On Broadway. Their breakfast is amazing—traditional diner fare but with microscopic attention to quality and detail. Those sunny eggs on the menu are locally sourced, salt and peppered into the sweet spot and cooked to perfection. Their home fries—a mixture of white and sweet potatoes (best ordered well done)—are legendary. And make sure you get their raisin walnut toast to round out the meal. On the more adventurous side, I once had homemade rabbit sausage there, which was crazy good. These days you might encounter New Yorksized wait times during weekend brunch hours and there’s no question the restaurant was better before it moved down the street to the larger location at 500 Broadway, but it’s still totally worth it. Trust a guy who has a food in his name to know what he’s talking about on this subject.

Sammy Bananas is a producer and DJ. He remixed 45 King’s “P-Y-R-A-M-I-D” for Scion A/V Remix, scionav.com/music/scionavremix, and recently appeared on The Rub’s show on Scion Radio 17, scionav.com/music/radio17.

AB O U T T O W N

Max Glazer, Kenny Meez and DJ Eleven Scion Radio 17 Monthly (Cincinnati)

Coady Willis of Big Business Metal Show (LA)

Cosmo Baker and Sammy Bananas Scion Radio 17 Monthly (Portland)

Trouble & Bass Crew and Skeet Skeet T&B Release Tour (LA)

The Spaceape HOUSE PARTY (LA)

12th Planet House Party (LA)

DJ C-Town House Party (LA)

Rob Wonder Scion Radio 17 Monthly (Columbus)

Guests Installation 5 at Scion Installation LA

Matt Curry This Must Be The Place show at Scion Installation LA

Pase Rock, Blu Jemz and Designer Dr*gs Scion Metro Tour (Portland)

Dan Funderburgh This Must Be The Place show at Scion installation LA

Cosmo Baker, Treasure Fingers, Roy Davis Jr. and Eli Escobar Scion Radio 17 Monthly (Columbus)

Tony Foresta of Municipal Waste Metal Show (LA)

Skeet Skeet House Party (LA)

Skream House Party (LA)

Runaway and friend House Party (LA)

Steve Brooks of Torche Metal Show (LA)

Jukali House Party (LA)

Pick up Scion Magazine and Scion merchandise at these sponsored retailers.

King & Duck

Robot Love

Toxic Ranch Records

VS Social

Ameoba Records

The Bunker

Turntablelab LA

Precision Skateboards

Giant Robot SF

Natural Sound

The Seventh Heart

Giant Robot NY

1592 Market St. San Francisco CA 94102 (415) 431-1755

37 E 9th St. New York NY 10009 (212) 674-4769 www.giantrobot.com

Fancy Tiger

Turntablelab NY

1 S Broadway Denver CO 80209 (303) 733-3855 www.fancytiger.com

120 E 7th St. New York NY 10009 (212) 677-0675 www.turntablelab.com

Major

Snaker Bistro

1426 Wisconsin Ave. NW Washington DC 20007 (202) 625-6732 news.majordc.com

580 Old Medford Ave. Patchogue NY 11772 (631) 730-7132 sneakerbistro.blogspot.com

Shoe Gallery

Unheard Of

244 NE 1st Ave. Miami FL 33132 (305) 371-2063

323 W 4th St. Cincinnati OH 45202 (513) 744-9444 www.unheardofbrand.com

Wish

Rivet

447 Moreland Ave. NE Atlanta GA 30307 (404) 880-0402 wishatl.com

1200 N High St. Columbus OH 43201 (614) 294-8697 rivetart.com/rivet.jsp

In4Mation

Sole Classics

1050 Ala Moana Blvd. b1 Bay 5& 6 Honolulu HI 96814 (808) 597-1447 www.in4mants.com/in4mant_08

765 N High St. #B Columbus OH 43215 (614) 299-2290 www.soleclassics.com

Leaders 1354

Tactics

4351 S Cottage Grove Ave. Chicago IL 60653 (312) 787-7144 www.leaders1354.com

375 W 4th Ave. #202 Eugene OR 97401 (541) 349-0087 www.tactics.com

St. Alfreds

Cal’s Pharmacy

1531 N Milwaukee Ave. Chicago IL 60622 (773) 486-7159 www.stalfred.com

15 NE Hancock St. Portland OR 97212 (503) 233-1237 www.calspharmacy.com

The Music Spot

Together Gallery

3333 W Touhy Ave. Lincolnwood IL 60712 (847) 329-7822

2314 NR Alberta St. Portland OR 97211 (503) 288-8879 www.togethergallery.com

Habitat Shoe Boutique

Ubiq - 1

4569 W 119th St. Leawood KS 66209 (913) 451-6360 www.habitatshoes.com

1509 Walnut St. Philadelphia PA 19102 (215) 988-0194 www.ubiqlife.com

Bodega

Adikt Footwear

6 Clearway St. Boston MA 02115 (617) 421-1550 www.bdgastore.com

3839 McKinney Ave. #140 Dallas TX 75204 (214) 559-6154 www.adiktfootwear.com

Karmaloop

Premium Goods

160 Newbury St. Boston MA 02116 (617) 369-0100 www.karmaloop.com

2416 Times Blvd. Houston TX 77006 (713) 523-8825 www.premiumgoods.net

Atomic Books

The Tipping Point

3620 Falls Rd. Baltimore MD 21211 (410) 662-4444 www.atomicbooks.com

1212 Main St. Houston TX 77002 (713) 655-0443 www.thetippingpointstore.com

Shop Gentei

Fice

1010 Morton St. Baltimore MD 21201 (410) 244-8961 www.shopgentei.com

160 E 200 S. Salt Lake City UT 84111 (801) 364-4722 www.ficegallery.com

Motivation Boutique

Commonwealth

1203 South University Ave. Ann Arbor MI 48104 (734) 769-2260 www.mtvtn.com

727 W 21st St. Norfolk VA 23517 (757) 622-3372www.cmonwealth.com

Red Belly

Status*

1671 Plymouth Rd. Ann Arbor MI 48105 (734) 222-4704 www.redbellyboardshop.com

28 Church St. Burlington VT 05401 (802) 651-9353 www.statuskicks.com

5th Element

Graffiti Skate Shop

7014 E Camelback Rd. Scottsdale, AZ 85251 (480) 994-7305 www.kingandduck.com

2648 Lyndale Ave. South Minneapolis MN 55408 (612) 871-9393 www.robotlove.biz

424 E 6th St. Tucson AZ 85705 (520) 623-2008 www.toxicranchrecords.com

1221 W Lake St. Minneapolis MN 55408 (612) 353-6934 www.vssocial.com/blog

2455 Telegraph Ave. Berkeley CA 94704 (510) 549-1125 www.amoeba.com Blek le Rat Installation 5 at Scion Installation LA

4056 Broadway Kansas City MO 64111 (816) 561-7407 www.thebunkeronline.com

424 N Fairfax Ave. Los Angeles CA 90036 (323) 782-0173 www.turntablelab.com

2711 S 48th St. #106 Lincoln NE 68506 (402) 476-3044 www.precisionskateboard.com

618 Shrader St. San Francisco CA 94117 (415) 876-4773 www.giantrobot.com

Artists And Curator This Must Be The Place show at Scion Installation LA

Souther Salazar Installation 5 at Scion Installation LA

Guests Flux show at Scion Installation LA

Jeff Soto Installation 5 at Scion Installation LA

Terri Timely Flux show at Scion Installation LA

Tim Barber Vice Photography show at Scion Installation LA

Guests Flux show at Scion Installation LA

Mark Mothersbaugh Installation 5 at Scion Installation LA

3422 Central Ave. Albuquerque NM 87106 (505) 255-8295

2411 Hennepin Ave. Minneapolis MN 55405 (612) 377-0044 www.fifthelementonline.com

Familia

14700 E Indiana Ave. #2102 Spokane Valley WA 99216 (509) 487-2401 www.myspace.com/graffitiskateshop

2833 Hennepin Ave. Minneapolis MN 55408 (612) 353-6930 www.familiaskateshop.com

Guests Flux show at Scion Installation LA

Gluekit This Must Be The Place show at Scion Installation LA

Scion.COM

PrepPing Your Trip…...........................2

What you need to know and what you

need to bring before heading out.

Getting There...................................…

8

How to stay sane and what to eat duri

ng your journey.

Setting Up........................................…1

4

You’ve finally made it, now what?

The PaciFIc Coast…............................

.20

Adventure sports, beach boardwalk amus ement parks and the weirdness you can only get way out west.

Frontier States…..............................2 8

Nature without the crowds, saving the donk

eys and neon’s final resting place.

The Midwest….....................................

Where to stuff yourself silly, metal in Chica

go and murals made of corn.

.36

The South........................................…

44

America’s southern musical legacy, the giant Sombrero Tower and gators in the Ever glades

The Northeast…................................52

Classic vacation spots, Bannerman Islan d (now mostly snake free) and why Woodstock isn’t just for the hippies.