B L UE R I D G E M U S I C T R A I LS
Disco ve r the Hidden Melodies of Weste r n Nor th Car olina
DOW N SOUTH S E R I E S
Mode r n Recipes f or Classic Southe r n Food
T H E R ESI D EN T GH O S T HUN TER ’ S STORE
of
Come and explore The Birthplace of Sweet Tea. Tour the shops, sites, sips, and tastes that make Summerville so sweet with a free Sweet Tea Trail Guide. visitsummerville.com
Philosophy We believe the idea of tradition is ingrained in the souls of Southerners. We have a relentless respect for our deep heritage and an unwavering dedication to living out the traditions of the past.
We believe tradition can be honored while simultaneously welcoming contemporary thought and style and that there is a movement to merge these two lifestyles through intentional, healthy and meaningful living.
We believe happiness is rooted in simplicity. If our minds and places are free of clutter, there is more room for things that matter.
We believe local is better. It’s about being a part of a larger community. It’s about connecting with
those who grow, catch, brew and create our food and that closer means fresher, tastier and healthier.
It’s choosing fruits and vegetables in season, drinking wines from vineyards in the region, seeking out the work of local artisans and supporting independent, locally owned stores.
We believe in leaving a positive fingerprint. The measure of our success will be the condition on which we leave the world for the next generation.
We believe these thoughts embody the emergence of the “New South” and we’re honored to be presenting this movement in our pages.
Thank you for joining us on this journey.
LIFE
HEART 64-69: REMEMBERING 9/11 and WARS SINCE
8-13: DISCOVER the HIDDEN MELODIES of WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
70-73: MAY I HAVE YOUR ATTENTION?
18-23: VILLAGE OF REMEMBRANCE Huguenot & Railroad Recollection
64
25-29: and your point is... FINDING ELLICOT'S ROCK 34-37: 100 THINGS to do in CHARLESTON BEFORE YOU DIE 38-41: THE RESIDENT GHOST of HUNTER'S STORE
46
FLAVOR
46-52: Homegrown Fare: DOWN SOUTH SERIES 54-57: CURATING the PERFECT COCKTAIL... A Bartender's Passion 58-61: FOR the LOVE of OATS Delicious Recipes for the Savory Side of Oatmeal
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58
INNOVATION 76-81: TELLING DRAYTON HALL'S STORIES: National, Indeed an International, Treasure
Pisgah Banjo Co. / pisgahbanjos.com
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a f J
“I loved Autumn, the one season of the year that God seemed to have put it there just for the beauty of it.” -Lee MAYNARD
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Thank you for your continued business! future projects I may be able to assist with. Best, All the best, Anna F. Joyner Anna F. Joyner
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Michelle McCollum CEO & Editor in Chief Anna Joyner Artistic Director & Production Manager Yuka Greer Managing Editor & Operations Director Abbey Stevens Editorial Assistant Mary-Margaret McCollum Social Media Manager
SOUTH CAROLINA NATIONAL HERITAGE CORRIDOR BOARD OF DIRECTORS Don Alexander
Ken Durham
Bob Alexander
Rhoda Green
Donna Livingston
Pete Weathers
Neal Workman
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SOUTH CAROLINA NATIONAL HERITAGE CORRIDOR Publisher Profits from The Southern Edge will go back into the preservation, conservation, and environmental educational programs of the South Carolina National Heritage Corridor. National Heritage Areas are designated by Congress as places where natural, cultural, and historic resources combine to tell nationally significant stories.
SOUTH CAROLINA NATIONAL HERITAGE CORRIDOR
ROY SCOTTWRITER
Roy Scott retired as Clemson University's director of Public Service Marketing in 2010. He was the executive producer of the popular ETV Radio program, Your Day, and hosted on-air features about South Carolina arts and music. In addition, he executiveproduced the public television series, Expeditions with Patrick McMillan, and Your Day On the Road. An Air Force veteran, Roy enjoys his volunteer work with military veterans and their families.
We are always willing to consider freelance photographers & contributors. Please send queries to info@thesouthernedgemagazine.com
TOM POLANDWRITER
PHIL GAINES WRITER
RACHEL LEDBETTERPHOTOGRAPHER
GEORGE McDANIEL WRITER
Tom Poland grew up in Lincoln Phil Gaines is a Professor of County, Georgia, and graduated Practice in the Parks Recreation from the University of Georgia and Tourism Management with degrees in Journalism and Department at Clemson Education. He taught at the University. Phil completed a 37University of Georgia, Columbia year career in State Parks in 2018. College, and the University He began his career in parks as an of South Carolina. He writes entry level Park Ranger at Kings about nature and the South Mountain State Park and served and its people, traditions, and as Park Superintendent at three lifestyles. His work appears in different state parks. Phil served books & magazines, journals, as Director of South Carolina and newspapers throughout the State Parks for 13 years. Phil also South. He’s a member of the S.C. served on the Board of Directors Humanities Speakers Bureau. for the National Association of Tom is a recipient of the Order of State Park Directors, and the Palmetto. He lives in Columbia, National Association of State South Carolina. Outdoor Recreation Liaison Officers.
Rachel Ledbetter is a photographer and freelance graphic designer in the Upstate. A graduate of Bob Jones University with a degree in cinematography, she has won awards in both national and international film festivals. She also serves on staff in digital media at her local church in Clemson. A mother of three, Rachel is passionate about impacting future generations in her community.
George W. McDaniel has devoted his professional life to historic preservation and education. Currently he is president of McDaniel Consulting, LLC, which offers strategic services to museums and historical organizations. In 2016 he retired after 26 years as executive director of Drayton Hall in Charleston, SC. He is consistently kept in the real world by his wife of 38 years, Mary Sue Nunn McDaniel, a former teacher. mcdanielconsulting.net
W. THOMAS SMITH, JR. WRITER
DARLENE GREENE WRITER
W. Thomas Smith Jr. is a formerly deployed U.S. Marine Infantry leader, counterterrorism instructor, and retired colonel in the S.C. Military Department. A New York Times bestselling editor and an internationally acclaimed writer whose work has appeared in countless newspapers and magazines worldwide, Tom has traveled to Iraq, the Balkans, elsewhere and other wars. He is also a senior officer with the National Security Task Force, South Carolina Floodwater Commission. Among Tom’s awards, honors, and military decorations, he is a 2019 recipient of the Order of the Palmetto. uswriter.com
A graduate of both Anderson and Clemson Universities, Darlene has degrees in Journalism and English. She has written professionally for both corporate and news publications for over 35 years. At the same time, she has sought knowledge, training and tools to live a healthier, more spiritually connected life. Certified in numerous energy healing modalities including Reiki, Ama Deus, Access Bars and Intuitive Counseling, Darlene loves helping others find their truth and their life’s passions. She is married, has one grown son, two rescued dogs, Finn (pictured) and Ginger, and two rescued cats, Smokey and Bandit. healingwithsoundsoflove.com
JANE JENKINS HERLONG - WRITER
JAMES SAXON WRITER
Jane Jenkins Herlong is a Sirius XM Humorist, bestselling/award-winning author, professional singer, recording artist and professional Southern humorist. A recent inductee into the prestigious Speakers Hall of Fame, Jane is the best-selling author of four books. A former Miss America contestant, Jane’s award-winning singing and comedy is featured on Sirius XM Radio, Spotify and Pandora Internet Radio. For speaking engagements visitjaneherlong.com
James "Jamie" Saxon is a Red Hills and Cotton native of the South Carolina Upcountry, to which he returned after a couple of decades in other places. A graduate of Furman University, the University of South Carolina, and the Cumberland School of Law of Samford University, he has been a college administrator, worked in private practice and public service, and currently is associate probate judge for Anderson County. He loves books, jazz, food, friends, labs, and his crazy Southern family.
WHERE HISTORY IS ALWAYS IN SEASON Explore the breathtaking landscapes and architectural wonders of a National Historic Landmark—Thomas Jefferson’s Poplar Forest. Designed by Jefferson as his private retreat, Poplar Forest is today an award-winning combination of history, preservation and restoration.
PLAN YOUR VISIT TODAY
POPLARFOREST.ORG
LIFE
DISCOVER THE HIDDEN MELODIES OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA Words by Sherida Buchanan
The mountains call with their own special song. For centuries, Western North Carolina’s unique geography, history, and culture have nurtured a rich musical heritage, which is now showcased through the Blue Ridge Music Trails of North Carolina. Internationally renowned music traditions like old-time string bands, ballad singing, and bluegrass are highlighted in the Blue Ridge Music Trails that expand across 29 counties. Come and explore for a few hours or a few days to immerse yourself in authentic mountain melodies and traditions.
ASHEVILLE'S CELEBRATED MUSIC SCENE GOES TRADITIONAL A trip up to the mountains is never complete without a stop in Asheville. This city pays homage to its mountain roots with live music and cultural celebrations. Pop into Isis Music Hall in west Asheville to enjoy one of their weekly shows featuring new talent and established acts. On September 18, the Southern Highland Craft Guild hosts their annual Heritage Day. This day-long celebration of Southern Appalachian culture is held at the Folk Art Center on the Blue Ridge Parkway. The day includes live music and traditional craft demonstrations such as blacksmithing, chair-making, quilting, and basketweaving.
COURTESY OF Visit Cleveland County: Carolina’s Land of Rhythm & Roots
DISCOVER THE ROOTS OF BLUEGRASS & TRADITIONAL MUSIC
About an hour southeast of Asheville, just within the North Carolina state line, the town of Shelby proudly nurtured the birth of bluegrass with musical legend Earl Scruggs. Scrugg’s three-finger banjopicking style forever changed bluegrass music and influenced generations to come. Discover more about his legacy at the Earl Scruggs Center located in the former courthouse, a beautiful three-story neoclassical revival building. Hankering for live music after your history lesson? Stop by the historic Don Gibson Theatre. This former art-deco movie theatre now hosts national artists and upand-coming talent in its intimate concert hall. Autumn guests include the Oak Grove String Band on September 17 and Carlene Carter on October 22. On October 16, the “ Official Fall Liver Mush Festival of North Carolina, Mush, Music and Mutts” returns for a celebration of liver mush—a local food delicacy that has a famed following at breakfast tables across the Carolinas. Enjoy live music on three stages while also checking out local craft beer, arts, and crafts. Just down the road from Shelby, the song of the foothills continues at Spindale and Union Mills. Just a short jaunt down Highway 74, Spindale keeps traditional and Americana music flowing through the airways. Tune into WNCW 88.7 FM and hum along to weekly programs such as Mountain Mornings, Country Gold, Goin’ Across the Mountain, and This Old Porch. Their carefully cultivated song lists provide a melodious introduction to the region as you drive.
Time your journey to Union Mills to take advantage of Music at the Mills at the Union Mills Learning Center. Held the first Friday of the month at 7 p.m., this community event features local and regional artists who put passion into every performance. The evening starts with a locally prepared meal that’s available for a song—just $5—and a free performance where tips are encouraged and flow as freely as the audience’s applause. Nestled along the state line is Tryon, NC. This quiet town is the birthplace of Nina Simone. Born Eunice Waymon in 1933, her early talents garnered hometown support. She eventually vaulted to the national stage, and was recognized as a singer, songwriter, and civil rights activist. Learn more about this native daughter and pay homage to her gifts at the Nina Simone Plaza and Sculpture, a permanent installation in historic downtown Tryon. Cap off your exploration of the foothills with a trip to Henderson County. Spend the day visiting the historic home of literary legend Carl Sandburg and exploring the artist haven of Flat Rock before heading out to the Feed & Seed in Fletcher, where you will enjoy traditional, bluegrass, and classic country music on Friday or Saturday nights at no charge!
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HEAD TO THE MOUNTAINS FOR A SWEET ESCAPE The music of the mountains continues to ring out towards the western edges of the state. Set your GPS for Highway 64 and take the Waterfall Scenic Drive to Brevard, NC. Once you get into town, immerse yourself in the local music scene at 185 King Street. This local venue celebrates homegrown talent with concerts offered year-round. Mark your calendar for the Mountain Song Festival, September 10-11. The picturesque outdoor festival boasts incredible talent and features the Grammy-winning group Steep Canyon Rangers as the kingpin act. For a weekly treat, take in Mountain Music Mondays at Oskar Blues’ Tasty Weasel Taproom, starting at 6 p.m. While in Brevard, be sure to visit the Brevard Music Center, complete with a new performing arts center, and offering performances in a variety of music styles throughout the season. Out in Cedar Mountain, enjoy the Mountains and Moonshine concert series on Friday nights at Studio 276 and sample spirits from their on-site distillery. Further down the road, the mountain communities of Waynesville and Maggie Valley deliver local music with a side of small-town charm. Various festivals throughout the fall celebrate local talent with live music—check out the Annual Church Street Art & Craft Show on October 9 and the Apple Harvest Festival on October 16 in Waynesville. Bluegrass enthusiasts can get their music fix at the Smoky Mountain Bluegrass Festival on October 23 in Maggie Valley. This year’s festival acts include Balsam Range, Kruger Brothers and Unspoken Tradition with more artists added closer to the date.
A melodious journey through the mountains must include a stop at Marshall and Mars Hills, NC. Nestled among the nooks of the Blue Ridge Mountains, these small towns proudly carry on rich bluegrass, stringband and ballad singing traditions. In Marshall, Zuma Coffee brews up more than caffeine on Thursday nights. Grammywinning fiddling legend and local resident, Bobby Hicks takes the stage to host weekly jam sessions. Arrive early to snag a prime viewing spot; the tunes often flow before the official show time of 7 p.m. For a living history lesson, check out the Bascom Lamar Lunsford Mountain Music Festival on October 2, in Mars Hill. Held at Mars Hill University, the day-long event is the second oldest folk festival in Western North Carolina. Pick up new and old tunes (some are centuries old!) at the ballad swap, join in a community dance, and listen in on a spontaneous music jam. The event honors Lunsford who dedicated his life to collecting and promoting Southern Appalachian music.
LOCAL MUSIC THRIVES IN SMALL TOWNS COURTESy OF MERLEFEST
As the roads wind through the mountains, the passion for Appalachian music swells with a crescendo that reaches the high peaks of the Blue Ridge. A visit to the High Country never disappoints as harmonious discoveries await around every curve. A stopover in Wilkesboro, NC, provides a chance to attend MerleFest, one of the premier music festivals in the country. Usually held in the spring, this year’s festivities are offered September 16-19. The event honors the late Eddy Merle Watson, son of American music legend Doc Watson. Over a dozen stages host a variety of acts including Balsam Range, Mavis Staples, Melissa Etheridge, LeAnn Rimes, Sturgill Simpson, and Yasmin Williams. Cap off your time in Wilkesboro with a visit to the Wilkes Heritage Museum, housed in the newly restored historic courthouse. The museum showcases artifacts and images from the area’s early days and features a music room that celebrates the area’s harmonious heritage.
Step back into the past with a visit to Mount Airy, the town that inspired Mayberry in the Andy Griffith Show, and the heart of the Yadkin Valley Wine Trail. The town’s musical roots are on display throughout the fall with shows at the Earle Theatre, Blackmon Amphitheatre, and Andy Griffith Playhouse, and during the Autumn Leaves Festival held the second weekend in October. On Saturday mornings, the Earle Theatre fills the airwaves with the WPAQ Saturday Morning Merry-GoRound. Second only to the Grand Ole Opry as the oldest continuous radio broadcast show, the AM radio show features two live bands each week. Ticket options allow you to sit in and be a part of history.
Plan ahead to attend the BLUE RIDGE & BEYOND SERIES concert on September 24 or 25. Enjoy five bluegrass concerts over two days at the Historic Earle Theatre and the Andy Griffith Playhouse. The Playhouse dates to the 1920s and was once a public elementary school that taught Mayberry alumni Andy Griffith.
CLARISSA ROBERTS
LOCAL CHARM BLENDS WITH HOMETOWN MUSIC
Embrace a relaxed pace as you climb through the mountains to Sparta, NC. Enjoy a small-town atmosphere where mountain music serves as the background beat. Sparta’s Main Street hosts a community celebration on September 11 with traditional mountain dance, music, and crafts at the Mountain Heritage Festival. The day-long event is an oldfashioned street festival with something for all ages. Beginning in October, the local Muddy Creek Café & Music Hall becomes a celebrated music venue with “ And the Beat Goes On” music series. It offers three concerts held October through November and showcases old-time, bluegrass, and blues performers. Music thrives continuously in this mountain town. Stop in at the Alleghany Jubilee on Monday, Tuesday, and Saturday nights for live music and traditional dance. The fun begins at 7 p.m. and is perfect for all ages and abilities. As you head back down the mountains and into the foothills, take in the Concerts at the Rock in Valdese, NC featuring old-time and bluegrass bands in the Old Rock School auditorium. On your visit, explore the lively traditions of the original Waldensian settlers.
KEEP EXPLORING ALL YEAR LONG Don’t let the music stop! Come back again and again to explore the region’s talent. Get news about events and shows by signing up for emails at BlueRidgeMusicNC.com. You can also explore the website for the latest listing of live traditional, bluegrass, blues, and gospel music in Western North Carolina. Want to plan ahead for next year? Request the spring 2022 issue of our Down the Road magazine; email Cindy@blueridgeheritage.com to get on the mailing list.
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO Be aware of local and regional COVID policies before you go. Check with your selected venue in advance to stay informed and prepared.
TAKE AN ARTISTIC DETOUR The Blue Ridge Mountains inspire creativity in every genre. Make time to explore the rich artistic legacy that thrives in every mountain community and town. Follow the Blue Ridge Craft Trails to enjoy nationally renowned artists' studios and galleries. Learn more at BlueRidgeCraftTrails.com.
Mills River potter Rodney Leftwich of Leftwich Pottery finds inspiration in North Carolina’s beauty and traditions. His unique folk and art pottery is widely collected and showcased in museums and private collections.
WHAT IS THE BLUE RIDGE NATIONAL HERITAGE AREA? The Blue Ridge Music Trails of North Carolina is an initiative of the Blue Ridge National Heritage Area (BRNHA), the North Carolina Arts Council and the North Carolina Department of Natural and Cultural Resources. BRNHA, a non-profit organization, is a steward of Western North
Carolina’s natural treasures and distinct living traditions in small towns including music, craft, outdoors, foodways and Cherokee culture. They invest in the region’s economic and cultural vitality through grants, cultural trails, and partnerships. Learn more at BlueRidgeHeritage.com.
Find Your Inspiration 250 waterfalls. Dozens of studios and galleries. A place unlike any other. Make your next visit a work of art | explorebrevard.com
THE ROOTS OF AMERICAN MUSIC
RUN DEEP IN NORTH CAROLINA COME HEAR NC FOR NC MUSIC STORIES.
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from that old mountain dew... to the new mountain grooves
There is music everywhere in Madison County NC. From traditional English ballads to soaring new voices. These deep musical roots have blossomed into a lively music scene with its heart on its sleeve and its ears toward the future. Come hear Madison County! visitmadisoncounty.com
Sponsored by Madison County Tourism Development Authority
SHELBY, NC
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village of
R E M E M B R A N C E
Huguenot & Railroad Town Recollection Words & Photos by Tom Poland
I
t’s been called the Village of Remembrance with good reason. The old homes and shuttered churches in this late 19th century village will pique your curiosity. Its Classical, Victorian, and Queen Anne architecture evoke grandeur, for that and more Highway 81 lures me back time and again. I drive through the village and wonder about the people who built such fine homes and stores. I lunch at Mount Carmel Café, then walk the streets identifying homes and businesses with a hand-drawn map. Where, I wonder, is my great granddad’s old home. I heard it burned. Among my missions? Finding that long-lost home’s site. Return with me to that village by the Savannah Valley Railroad. Hear that bell? Hear that whistle? Orange sparks escape billowing black smoke as the locomotive chugs toward the Village. Trailing steam it’s come to haul off area-grown cotton.
Times are booming and women wear heavily decorated dresses, beneath which are corsets and bustles. Men in slim suits and top hats brandish canes, but change is coming. The train will give way to automobiles. After World War I demand for cotton will drop, and the boll weevil’s 1921 arrival will lay a mighty blow on Mount Carmel. The Great Depression and a big fire will deliver knockout punches. A great migration will take place, and homes, stores, and churches will empty and be shuttered.
THE PULL I go to the Village often, not because my great grandfather, Thomas Antone Poland, lived there and I seek his homeplace. I go because Mount Carmel offers a beautiful lesson in life. The sun doesn’t shine on the same dog’s backside all the time. Oh the sun shined on the Village following the 1886 arrival of the Savannah Valley Railroad. The Village became a cottondriven railroad town whose golden years ran from 1885 to 1920. Businesses included five general stores, a pharmacy, grocery store, two gins, and two blacksmith shops. February 24, 1885 a post office opened in Mount Carmel, the same year the village was chartered. About that time Lodimont Associate Reform Presbyterian Church moved two miles to its present site. It was one of the churches in the area to be electrified. From the late 1880s into the early 1900s, structures plain and grand went up. The Frith-McCelvey-Hester House, Mount Carmel A.R.P. Church, Mount Carmel Presbyterian Church, the Hester Gin and Grist Mill, Baker-Boyd House, McAllisterWhite House, Mount Carmel School, J.F. Sutherland House, a tenant house, Conner House, and many others but why read a list. See for yourself. Baker’s Store with its two arched windows and arched “tombstone” double doors looks like the front of a church. And not to be missed is the J.L. Covin House with its bay window. Nor do you want to miss the John W. Morrah House, home to Joseph Carpenter and Ed McAllister who’s restoring it. See the home’s matching dollhouse. Louis Covin built the original Morrah house in 1840. It burned in 1895. The magnificent home you see today replaced it. Augusta Architect Lewis F. Goodrich supervised construction and sent master craftsmen by train from Augusta to build the home of
virgin pine timber. Features include stained glass windows, turned posts, a spool-andspindle balustrade and frieze, and dentil cornice. The brick bank, circa 1905, evokes images of westerns with cowboys robbing banks and fleeing in a hail of gunfire but men in slim suits with hats and canes transacting business is more like it. How many towns do you know on the National Register of Historic Places? I know one. Mount Carmel. The architects and craftsmen who built this place possessed fine taste. The Village makes you shake your head. Leaving had to be hard. Among the Village’s prominent families are Cade, Covin, Hester, McAllister, Morrah, and Sutherland. John D. Cade served in the South Carolina Legislature. Lawrence L. Hester served as a state senator for 28 years and politics overall for 54 years. Latter day John A. McAllister served in key political and business-economic positions. The McAllister family continues to operate a home furnishings business established in 1888. The business has evolved and changed but a timeless appreciation for customer service lives on. The McAllister family serves as stewards of the area’s history. The original teller cage from the Bank of Mount Carmel greets you as you enter the store and the showroom continues in all directions. Just across Depot Street is McAllister’s Mount Carmel Café. It’s an important recent addition as Mount Carmel moves toward the future. Visit the café for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Try out the pork chops, catfish, shrimp, hamburgers, steaks, soups, and salads. From pancakes and biscuits to omelets and great sandwiches, you’ll create a few Mount Carmel memories yourself. Eat well and do some exploring. The Village is rich with history and recollection.
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MEMORIES Sara Covin Juengst, retired Presbyterian minister and Willington historian, has Huguenot ties. “My great, great grandfather, Louis Covin, (aforementioned) was one of its earlier settlers. He was born in New Bordeaux May 30, 1799. His parents, Lazarus and Mary Anne Covin, were first generation French Huguenots, arriving in New Bordeaux in 1768. “Around 1820, Louis moved from New Bordeaux to the Mount Carmel area to open one of the community’s first businesses, a trading post, at the intersection of Leroy’s Ferry Road and the Abbeville Highway. Customers were settlers and Native Americans. He acquired many animal skins and eventually operated a tannery, as well as store.” In 1824, Louis married Mary Ann Hutchinson, granddaughter of William Hutchinson, owner of Hutchinson’s Mill near present-day Mount Carmel. “Reverend William Tennant mentioned the mill in his travels in the area in 1775. Mary Ann’s father, James, ran the mill until Joseph Calhoun bought it in the early 1880s and it became Calhoun Mill.” Sara shares a story. “It’s told that Louis’ Huguenot mother, Mary Anne, wasn’t happy that he wanted to marry an English woman instead of a French one. Louis is said to have replied, “I don’t care if she is English. She’s the prettiest girl I ever saw, and I’m going to marry her anyway.” Frances Hester shares a family story as well. “When they were erecting the rock wall monument for Fort Charlotte,” said Frances, “Uncle Pat asked the men, ‘Why didn’t you use stones from Fort Charlotte?’ The men replied, ‘Because they’re beneath the lake.’ ‘No they’re not,’ said Uncle Pat. ‘I rescued the stones from Fort Charlotte and placed them on the Mount Carmel side of the lake.’ ” Ed McAllister sent me a relative’s essay on the Huguenots’ who sailed to South Carolina on The Friendship and made their way upland. Their New Bordeaux settlement failed due to the Revolutionary War and other factors. Still, they left their mark. A cemetery, 1851 springhouse, handmade bricks, the residuum of a collapsed chimney, well (a “bad well”), and foundation stones say they were here. A granite cross overlooks Little River at their chapel site. They named their picnic spot from 1 Kings 18. In that scripture Mount Carmel is a high, wooded mountain ridge where prophet Elijah defeated 850 pagan prophets. There you have it, Mount Carmel—the name stuck. 20
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LOOKING FOR THE PAST Mount Carmel’s story is one of good luck, bad luck, and change. The sun didn’t always shine on the Village. Dark clouds rained adversity, but there was that 35-year surge of train-fueled prosperity. Though nature has had 135 years to reclaim the rail bed I found it twice on a hot July afternoon. First in woods at the end of Depot Street. Well, of course. An old railroad X sign leaned into vines. The second time was near Mount Carmel Cemetery where the Mount Carmel Academy had stood. An old brick culvert ran beneath the rail bed. Back at the Depot Street rail bed, just feet away stood a double iron gate that led to the John Cade House. An archival photo reveals its grand facade and front porch. From the Cade family came D.B. Cade who made bricks with “DBCade” neatly incised into them. Cade lived just across the Savannah River on his cotton plantation near Petersburg. Drury Boykin Cade opened a brick kiln and pottery operation in Mount Carmel around 1885 according to Cinda K. Baldwin’s Great and Noble Jar. Ed McAllister told me Cade made bricks for Vienna and other places. The kiln also turned out churns, cream pitchers, sugar bowls, and vases. Many bear “LAC” for Cade’s wife, Laura A. Cade. All her life my mom talked about D.B. Cade and his bricks. Too late—she had died—I came into possession of two DB Cade bricks. Bricks, however, are the least of the Village’s rich history.
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HISTORY RICH Get a map. Mount Carmel seems isolated, but it’s a region a modernday Indiana Jones would love. Just across the border in Lincoln County, Georgia, at either Graball or the Chennault House, is where robbers attacked Jefferson Davis’s wagon train. To this day people speculate about the alleged stolen gold. Drive north through Mount Carmel and leave Highway 81 for Highway 823. Three miles later turn left onto Calhoun Mill Road. In winter when trees lay bare limbs to the sun you’ll see the old mill to your right. In summer you’ll see nothing but leaves. The Calhoun Mill, built sometime between 1852 and 1860, stands near Little River. This gristmill is especially unique, being brick, three stories, with a basement and hipped roof. Near it are a cotton gin, millrace, and milldam. A post office operated at the mill between 1822 and 1894. The September 4, 1980 National Register of Historic Places nomination form listed John A. McAllister as owner. Ed McAllister owns it today. According to the form, the first specific mention of Calhoun ownership is in Colonel Joseph Calhoun’s will that bequeathed the property to his son in 1817. “When Col. Calhoun acquired the property remains a mystery,” said Ed McAllister. “The destruction of the Abbeville District deeds in the 1872 fire and the lack of local newspapers from the relevant time period makes it difficult to establish clear dates and time lines. We know the present building was constructed sometime between 1852 and 1860, but I never found anything that would pin down the date.” Over the years the property and later mill itself changed hands going through Dionysius M. Rogers and being sold in 1883, 1901, and 1915. Darrell J. McAllister took ownership in 1925. Ed McAllister said a story holds that President Jefferson Davis, fleeing Richmond, gave a talk beneath a large oak near Calhoun Mill. Why not? The site was popular for political rallies and social gatherings well into the twentieth century say locals. Return to Highway 823. Turn left and cross Little River on a new bridge where a steel truss bridge once lent the area ambience. Turn left onto St. Paul Church Road (State Road S-33-134) and look for the pullover to your left. Walk down to Little River and you’ll hear Chattooga River-like roaring. Behold the millrace where the mill got power. Myth or truth? After the Confederate government collapsed, Secretary of State Judah P. Benjamin threw the provisional seal plates into the Savannah River as he fled for England. So they say. A December 11, 1988 story in the Atlanta Journal & Constitution said, “Jefferson Davis and his aides dropped the Great Seal of the Confederacy into the river or a nearby well.” 22
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“I understood that there was a place in the Savannah River that was a whirlpool of sorts and was commonly referred to as the Hominy Pot,” said Ed McAllister. “The tale, as I heard it, is that the seal was dropped into the river at that spot with the idea that it could never be retrieved.” The various tales fashion a confusing, enduring mystery. What’s not mysterious is Willington Academy’s Southern success story. Near Willington and Mount Carmel, Dr. Moses Waddel’s classical school for boys was perhaps antebellum South Carolina’s most prestigious preparatory school. Graduates entered colleges such as Yale and Princeton as juniors. Alumni include John C. Calhoun, Augustus B. Longstreet, Hugh Swinton Legaré, George McDuffie, and James Louis Petigru. The school educated many of the South’s leaders: eleven governors, three vice presidents, and eight college presidents. Waddel ran his academy from 1804 to 1819. He left to become president of Franklin College, now the University of Georgia. Nearby South Carolina’s first action in the Revolutionary War took place July 12, 1775, when a Patriot force of Ranger companies captured Fort Charlotte without bloodshed. The fort’s only occupants were Capt. George Whitefield, his family, and a few men. Today Hester’s Bottoms, a campground, looks over water where Fort Charlotte sleeps. It’s a beautiful place to unwind and think about the history that took place out beneath the water. Beneath the lake of two names—Clarks Hill and Thurmond—lie the drowned villages of Petersburg and Lisbon, Georgia, and Vienna, South Carolina. So much history surrounds Mount Carmel aside from its own. Add to that DB Cade bricks, lost gold, Huguenots, monuments, springhouses, cemeteries, empty houses and stores, trains, catastrophic fires, and an ancient rail bed. And my family history? Did I find my great granddaddy namesake’s home? Thanks to a courthouse sleuth I did. Unlike Mount Carmel’s homes that seem impervious to time, it’s better days are behind it. Even so, it pleased me to see it still standing for my grandparents’ homes did, in fact, burn to the ground. Like me, it’s a survivor. We carry on best we can, just as Mount Carmel has done.
THE VILLAGE TODAY On a fine Sunday as chimney sweeps swooped and chittered above Depot Street, I walked over to the Mount Carmel Café, once the old Village’s U.S. Post Office. I paused to watch traffic. Highway 81 was busy. Trucks and cars rushed by to get, well, somewhere. A good many people just blow through here, but not all. Four years ago I stopped to photograph the Mount Carmel Presbyterian Church. A car with Texas plates pulled in beside me. A man got out. “I heard about this place and just had to see it,” he said. He was in South Carolina on business but drove to Mount Carmel to see the old churches and homes. You see, these old buildings speak to some of us. “Tarry a while. We’ve got stories to tell you.” The story I like best? How families long here love the place. If you come here often, as I do, you’ll see the Village of Remembrance continues to get love and care. I’ll be back soon, and the rest of you? Pay Mount Carmel a visit. You’ll see it’s called the Village of Remembrance with good reason.
HELP FOR MOUNT CARMEL PRESBYTERIAN CHURch Michael Bedenbaugh, PreserveSC president—“Our organization had our eye on this extraordinary church since it was featured prominently in Bill Fitzpatrick’s book, South Carolina’s Sacred Spaces. A donor who had watched our work on Abbeville’s Episcopal Trinity Church had high interest in saving a historic church in South Carolina. Mount Carmel was chosen as a recipient of a $50,000 grant to our ‘Endangered Sacred Spaces Program.’ The funds will help install new electrical and lighting, water service, and make it ADA compliant for events in the sanctuary. Mount Carmel, an extraordinary little town with a big history, will attract heritage tourism,” said Bedenbaugh. “That’s why we’re working with Mount Carmel stakeholders and regional partners to create a small heritage corridor loop between Edgefield where we’re developing the historic Edgefield Hotel and Abbeville (newly reopened Trinity) that will include Mount Carmel. Though this $50,000 grant will accomplish a lot, we can’t accomplish everything needed without an additional $40,000 to make the church fully functional with HVAC and bathrooms. Visit www. savingsacredspaces.org to help these important efforts.” thesouthernedgemagazine.com 23
TAB LE R OC K STATE PAR K
EXpERIENCE
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and your point is...
FINDING ELLICOTT'S ROCK Words & Photos by Phil Gaines
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t’s a new century; the nineteeth to be precise. James Madison is President, our country is growing, and states and politicians are anxious to establish boundaries and boarders as expansion moves westward. South Carolina’s population is approaching half of a million people, nearly twice as many as adjacent Georgia and only 150 thousand less than that of neighboring North Carolina. All three states are concerned about each other’s border and what it means for each of their futures.
Some 210 years later, as the asphalt road transitions to gravel and dirt it serves as an understated announcement to visitors that you are entering a Wilderness Area, and all that goes with that. The 1964 Wilderness Act defines a federally designed area such as Ellicott Rock: “A wilderness, in contrast with those areas where man and his own works dominate the landscape, is … as an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.”
The disagreement between Georgia and North Carolina has escalated into an armed conflict known as the Walton War. In 1811 then Governor David Mitchell of Georgia hired Andrew Ellicott to re-survey the border between Georgia and North Carolina to finally settle the border dispute between the two states. The United States Congress had recently determined the point where the three states meet should be located at Latitude 35N. Ellicott was just the man for the job with an impressive resume that included surveying the boundaries of the District of Columbia, at the request of then Secretary of State Thomas Jefferson. What could go wrong? thesouthernedgemagazine.com 25
Today’s wilderness known as the Ellicott Rock Wilderness consists of 8,300 acres located at the point where the Carolinas and Georgia intersect. Before this “point” was designed, the wilderness had no boundaries as beyond the river and over the mountains was the land of the Cherokee, of tall trees and thickets of rhododendron and mountain laurel. Signs of black bear and panthers marked the rugged landscape overflowing with wilderness, void of surveys and invented lines. Where creeks meander with purpose through the moss-covered granite rock, and gorges seeking the river we call Chattooga. The Cherokee and the panthers have left this area, not of their own choosing, rather the casualties of expansion, the rest remain perhaps in reverence to, and a reminder of, a time forgotten. I can imagine the thoughts of Ellicott as he walked beside the same river searching for the point of the 35 parallel, and the mission of marking the point where North Carolina and Georgia meet. Just down the trail another trail emerges, a quick departure from the 4.5 miles to our destination will be worth the interruption. A short hike beside the creek with an occasional glimpse of white water in the distance convince you that your reward will be worthwhile. It is. As the sounds of the falling water with its collision with the still rocks below demanding your attention and delight. Spoonauger Falls seems to be the dramatic feature that carries you into “the wilderness”. As you make your way back to the main trail, the distinctive sound of the waterfall grows quiet, and the sounds of the river gradually take its place. For the next four miles the sounds of the Chattooga will be your constant companion. The forest comes alive absorbing all your senses, increasing the length of your trip not in the miles to your destination but in the time traveled. The incentives to stop and admire the sights, sounds, and smells of the forest is intoxicating. To marvel at the Chattooga alone is worth a few extra minutes, how its waters change from still and tranquil to quick and turbulent is mesmerizing. The forest is alive and for a moment you feel as you are the only one in… “an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.” Our guidebook tells us Mr. Ellicott’s Rock is near the end of the trail just below the large Hemlock tree near the river. The book is 15 years old; written before the impact of the hemlock woolly adelgid, an invasive, aphid-like insect that has destroyed many Eastern and Carolina Hemlocks, perhaps even the one described in the guidebook. We find our spot and step into the river in search of the very point where the three states meet, and where Mr. Ellicott’s left his mark. Andrew Ellicott had made his calculations and walked through the same wilderness as I. In my mind I imagine what he might have said as he stood in the cold waters of the Chattooga, “Here. This is the spot I will mark, and the controversy will be over.” The location of the newly 'official' boundary was carved into a rock on the east bank of the Chattooga River. Ellicott's inscription "N - G", meaning North Carolina-Georgia, it is still there. It can still be seen plainly on the rock today - if you can find the rock.
Evidently, Ellicott's boundary was not accurate enough for the politicians of North and South Carolina as they sent their own team of commissioners to the Chattooga to reconsider Ellicott's calculations. Their determination was that Ellicott’s was off on his calculations by 10 feet or so of the correct location of the 35N latitude. Hence, they inscribed their own rock, "Lat 35 AD 1813 NC + SC" just south from the original mark of Mr. Ellicott. The marks on what is now known as Commissioners Rock also remains. Commissioners and lawmakers agreed this is the actual point where the three states meet. Well, thanks to modern technology it is now known that neither rock is located on the 35th parallel which crosses the Chattooga some 230 feet south of Ellicott's Rock. This discrepancy has meant that these borders are still in dispute. The 35th's incorrect position has important waterrights repercussions to several states. Our calculations were probably not as precise as Mr. Ellicott’s, as each guidebook and directions to the rock contradicted each other and were vague at best. My hiking partner of 35 years and I shifted back to the days of our youth and searched for the rock through trial and error, wet, muddy, and frustrated I hear my friend yell, “I found it”. Indeed, he did, as I made my way to Ellicott’s Rock, I saw Commissioners Rock as well. For over two hundred years these rocks marked the very point were North Carolina, South Carolina and Georgia meet. Standing in the river and touching the very rock that Mr. Ellicott’s carved over 200 years ago was powerful. A physical connection to history. As we worked our way out of the river up the bank, I remarked that finding Ellicott’s Rock is not only difficult, but not for everyone. Anytime you are in the wilderness and on a wild and scenic river there are natural dangers. Know your limits, practice safe hiking practices, and, most importantly, enjoy the journey. As we hiked the 4.5 miles back to the trail head, we were laughing and celebrating our accomplishment of finding both Ellicott’s Rock and Commissioners Rock. Somewhere in between the laughter and boasting something else happened, we were once again mesmerized by the sounds of the river and its everchanging voice seemingly based on its mood. We were drawn to its edge, captivated by its transparent waters and the life that lays beneath, on display to those who take the time to slow down and look. Even an afternoon shower added to the hike, as its soft drops brightened the colors of the forest. We noticed things that we had missed on the way in, perhaps so anxious to get to our destination, that we overlooked the obvious, mushrooms and moss, a snake swimming to the other side of the river. Nevertheless, it was the Rock we were in search of, the point where the states meet, and we found it. A tangible piece of history and possibly a deeper lesson.
The allure and challenge of finding Ellicott’s Rock brought us to a specific point, the beauty and serenity of the Ellicott Rock Wilderness brought us to another; the realization that the point was much larger than a single spot. Perhaps, it’s the edges, where the seams between wilderness and civilization are obscured just enough that we find ourselves. Where bits of wilderness peak out amid the ferns and thickets of laurel, where the sounds of falling water croon and dirt calls you to take a walk, you may just learn that a walk in the wilderness is a spiritual necessity, a remedy for the countless manufactured problems of the modern world, that just don’t seem as important once you are on the trail. See you outside!
THE WORLD THROUGH DADDY'S EYES
I’ve been looking through thousands of my daddy’s slides (photo negatives captured in small paper square frames-for those of you who need ‘splaning to). I am trying to locate some pictures to use in my upcoming book, “Sweet Tea Secrets From the Deep Fried South. ” This book will be released by Tyndale House Publishing in a couple of months. My hearts leaps when I find the perfect picture to coincide with one of my sweet tea Southern stories. But, then again, my head pounds when I see ten plus slides of the same picture; it is crazy! I decided to take a deeper look to discover what my daddy was seeing with all these duplicates. Although the pictures were almost the same, there were subtle changes, especially noticed with the dreaded boxes of fish pictures. When I was a child, we had to endure watching practically every fish makes its journey from the Gulf Stream to the boat to the table. There is one fish that became a household celebrity. It is hanging on our den wall on Johns Island in perpetuity. I discovered that many carousels of slides and repeated pictures had a reoccurring theme—life’s nano-seconds and don’t miss it… even the fish pictures told great tails (could not resist). Going through those slides is like riding a wild, emotional roller coaster. You see beloved folks long gone from this earth that make your neck tighten; you feel like you are fixin’ to explode with tears. Then you laugh hysterically at picture that triggers an experience that has lingered in the recesses of your memory. Gradually you become addicted to wanting to relive those simple moments of laughter and tears. But I also began wondering, what happened?
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Daddy captured pictures of lazy Sunday afternoons after church; we sat for hours on a relative’s porch talking about nothing. There was no gossip but a gathering of folks who loved and cared for one another. I was in the young generation and we were entertained by cousins we did not know. We played marbles, hop-scotch, and climbed trees. The non-Baptist kids enjoyed a serious game of Battle with a deck of cards half missing. It just did not matter; we were together and took the time to be together. Daddy went way beyond just taking pictures. One of his favorite things to do was give special friends and family a nice 35-mm camera. After Daddy died, many people told me about his gift. One friend was a pilot in Vietman; the other was a distant cousin who toured Europe. Daddy wanted them to capture moments through a lens; he knew those frozen frames would live on forever. Daddy left me with the heritage of how each moment in time is filled with many emotions: some make us laugh-out- loud and some made our knees buckle. But he loved life and wanted to share his vision with whomever was willing to sit, watch and enjoy the simple pleasures of living. Daddy, thanks for the memories.
Jane is the best-selling author of four books and a professional Southern humorist. For speaking engagements visit janeherlong.com
HERITAGE Class, let’s all pay attention to today’s lesson, and start with some definitions. According to the Oxford English Learner’s Dictionary (sort of the light-weight version of the Oxford English dictionary), heritage means: The history, traditions, buildings, and objects that a country or society has had for many years and that are considered an important part of its character. The Merriam-Webster dictionary goes into a bit more detail: 1. Property that descends to an heir; 2(a). Something transmitted by or acquired from a predecessor: Legacy, inheritance (e.g., “The battlefields are part of our heritage and should be preserved”); 2(b). Tradition; and 3. Something possessed as a result of one’s natural situation or birth. Synonyms include convention, custom, prescription, rubric, rule, and tradition. MerriamWebster’s use in a sentence is “[h]ospitality is a cherished Southern heritage”; “this farm is my heritage from my father, as it was for him from his father.” Sometimes to my chagrin, I have lived in other parts of this special country of ours, though I’m a Red Hills and Cotton Boy (aka Upcountry South Carolina Boy) through and through. Even while living in other southern states, I was surprised that certain things were expected of me simply because of my birthplace and heritage. Anytime I was invited to someone’s home for a meal, it invariably involved rice or grits, and or shrimp, as if we eat nothing else (I admit I could eat rice three meals a day). My manners were expected to be impeccable, if not to say archaic. People expected to luxuriate in my accent and constantly asked me to “say something.” I even had college fraternity brothers call my parent’s answering machine (remember those?) to hear my mother’s voice. (I’ll grant you her voice is a sugary, lilting version of South of Broad Charleston mixed with having been in the Upcountry for generations, and is very soothing—until she’s provoked.) But living up to my so-called heritage could be exhausting: all that door opening, chair pulling, standing when a lady comes near, knowing exactly what to do in every social situation, writing note after note after note. You get the picture; tiring, sometimes, but I didn’t mind, and would have done those things anyway, but it feels a little odd when it’s all expected of you just because of where you were raised. And it wasn’t questioned that you were raised to observe all these aspects of heritage. And I like most of them, don’t you? I prefer being known as hospitable, at least a little genteel; I like my accent, though I do not say egg in four syllables; I like behaving like a gentleman, at least in public—face it, no one wants to be a gentleman 100% of the time.
In these times, however, heritage can be used, as can so-called patriotism, to cloak darker matters that are hateful, thoughtless, and not at all helpful to anyone. Just as life rarely, if ever, is black and white, but comes in lots of varying shades, heritage, too, is a mixture of the lovely and the ugly. Our heritage as citizens of the United States of America is one of great democratic experiment, a republic like no other; of a commitment to freedom (of thought, speech, worship, etc.) for ourselves and people throughout the world; of a government not of a monarch, but of the people, by the people, and for the people. We all should celebrate this. But our heritage also includes enslaving people, not allowing men without property to vote, much less women and blacks; of child labor, sharecropping, and employment with no protections for the workers (remember the Shirtwaist Fire that killed 146 because the doors were bolted?); of a Civil War in which brother fought brother, resulting in destruction of an entire region of the country and countless loss of life. Just as we have no alternative but to accept life as good and difficult and challenging and wonderful and frightening and rich and poor and well and sick, we have to take our heritage as it came to us. We should acknowledge mistakes and wrongs, repent, and do what we can to make things right. We should be grateful for the good we’ve inherited, from our families and our states and communities and founders. This writer believes this incredible Earth of which we’ve been made stewards is the best heritage of all. Think of all the diversity: mountains, seas, great urban centers, small rural villages; ice cold snowy places; hot and humid beachy places; Native American reservations and traditions; Southern, New England, Western, Northwestern, Northeastern accents and traditions. Pine trees, redwoods, Palmetto trees, oak trees, dogwoods, azaleas all over the place in the spring, crocuses in colder climes pushing up through the snow and ice. What an embarrassment of riches we’ve been given—and the responsibility of caring for an Earth that belongs to God rather than to us. Faith, for many, also is part of one’s heritage. And how rich and fulfilling it can be. Here’s something I believe: heritage is like a strong, well-built foundation rather than a continual looking back at the past as if our best days are behind us. Like even the best foundations, cracks and problems will occur, battered by the vagaries of time and age and
tornadoes and hurricanes, snow and ice, heat and humidity. Do we scrap it all and tear the house down? No. What we do is try to maintain it, to make the foundation stronger so that what we have may be enjoyed by our families long after we’ve exited this earthly life. We continue to build, using talents and knowledge we have gained and didn’t always have. We make things better. We may look ahead, but understand that the present is all we have—not the past and not the future. But we hope and believe our best days always are ahead of us as we create different “heritages” to pass down to our loved ones and communities. Who amongst us hasn’t worked very hard to see that children and grandchildren have better lives? Not to spoil them (at least not completely), but to educate them, allow them to find fulfilling, engaging work, raise grandchildren we can spoil and turn back over to their parents when they’re full of mama’s cake and cookies. We are a versatile, flexible people who keep calm and keep on moving. In the South, we left cotton, rice, and indigo fields for mills and town jobs. When the mills left, we created and discovered other ways to live and enjoy life. And so it goes, from generation to generation. From the heritage of hard work, to those lovely eyes we inherited from a parent, to that big nose daddy bequeathed to us, the house that’ll need new cladding before long, to grandmother’s recipes we can’t quite duplicate. The sweet little (or big) church or synagogue we’ve been a part of for generations. But let’s sometimes contemplate our heritage meaningfully. We all remember the funny story of the lady who always cut her roast in half and cooked it in two roasting pans. A friend saw this and asked her why she did that, and she said “because my mother always did that.” But it made her wonder, so she asked her mother why she’d always done that. “Because we didn’t have much money when your daddy and I married, and I didn’t have a pan large enough to hold an entire roast, so I halved it and cooked it in two pans.” No, our heritage makes nothing easy, but it connects, for good and ill, with a foundation, parts of which we should use and enhance and parts of which we may do well to leave behind. But I’ll always be of the mind that more of our heritage is good than ill. How about you?
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SUMMERVILLE... just when you think it couldn't get any sweeter.
B
est known for sweet tea and southern hospitality, Summerville is the heart of the lowcountry. Nestled among pine trees and azaleas, this charming small-town offers a wide variety of options for exploration all year long and is located only 25 miles from Charleston, SC. From unique events, historical and architectural gems, outdoor recreational opportunities, and unique visitor experiences, you’ll soon discover why life is sweeter in Summerville.
The Sweet Tea Trail is designed help you explore the wonderment of Summerville. The trail will guide you through the five districts of the town, offering uniquely Southern dining, shopping, historical and cultural experiences. The Sweet Tea Edition Trail Guide is a free comprehensive guide to help you in exploring and discovering what makes Summerville so very sweet. With this passport as your guide, not only will your exploration be a breeze, you can also work towards getting some pretty sweet swag. Trail Guides are available at the Summerville Visitor Center, at participating stops or you can download directly from the website. The tree-lined square of historic downtown is dotted with a classic blend of vintage and modern locally owned shops, boutiques and eateries. Whether you are on the hunt for that perfect item for your home or as a gift, seeking the latest fashion trends or if you are looking to elevate your foodie experience, a visit to Summerville has it all. Free parking, friendly merchants, and abundant shopping and dining opportunities make visiting and exploring The Sweet Tea Trail extra sweet. Be sure you keep the Trail Guide with you at all times and make sure to ask for your stamp after your purchase at one of the 35 participants. Once you have completed your exploration and purchased some unique treasures, simply visit the Summerville Visitor Center, show off your stamps and you’ll be rewarded with some awesome sweet-tea inspired prize(s). Request a free Visitor’s Guide, check out the calendar for upcoming events, and explore all the reasons Summerville will make your life sweeter at visitsummerville.com.
MARK YOUR CALENDAR FOR THE
SWEETEST WEEK EVER y SWEET TEA FESTIVAL SEPTEMBER 13th - SEPTEMBER 18th sum m erville d ream.org Participat i ng lo ca l b a rs, V I SIT SU MME RV IL L E , a n d F i re f ly Distillery h av e tea m ed up in celebration of S u m me rv i l l e D re a m' s Th e Sw e e te st W eek Ev er to bring you th e
2021 Sweet tea cocktail contest y 1st annual hold my tea BAR crawl H E RE ' S H O W TO PARTI CIPATE: Pi ck u p a n o f f i c i a l p u n c h c ard ( avail ab l e at each pa rticipating ba r , at th e Summ e rvi lle Vi s i to r s C e n te r , o r p ri n t o n e f ro m v i sitsum m erv ille .c om to h elp guide you to th is y e ar' s H o l d My Te a B ar C rawl de stinations. During t he we e k-lo ng C raw l , yo u ' l l h av e th e o p p o rtu n it y to enj oy a creativ ely cra f ted c ockta il fe at u ri n g F i re f ly ' s Sw e e t Te a Vo d k a c reated by pa rticipating ba rs. Vote for yo u r favo r i t e Sw e e t Te a C o c k tail v i a I n stag ra m ( @V isitSum m erv ille ) . Bring your c om p leted pu nch ca r d to th e Su mme rv il l e V i sito r C e n te r (402 N M a in St.) to redeem a p rize!
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100Charleston Things to do in
Before You Die
Words by Lynn & Cele Seldon
W
hen you visit Charleston, you’re sure to hear the story of a wealthy older Charlestonian woman who was once asked why she so seldom traveled. She replied, “My dear, why should I travel when I’m already here?” It’s easy to understand this woman’s complacence, because few places on earth can rival Charleston’s blend of grace, beauty, history, and tradition. Charleston is always
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S TAY I N A M A N S I O N
Wentworth Mansion’s long history makes it a must-stay for history and luxury buffs looking to live like a friend of a Charleston mansion owner. Built in 1886, Wentworth Mansion is the former home of a cotton merchant. The owners carefully restored the mansion in 1998, converting it into an upscale boutique hotel. Each room and suite features gaslit fireplaces with original marble mantels, king-size sleigh beds, inlaid design floors, whirlpool tubs, and walk-in showers. Guests can also enjoy watching the sunset from the hotel’s rooftop cupola, a special spot with 360-degree views of the city and harbor. In addition to complimentary afternoon wine and hors d’oeuvres, guests are invited to Circa 1886, the award-winning restaurant housed in the mansion’s carriage house, for a gourmet breakfast. wentworthmansion.com
colorful and forever charming. It's easy to understand what residents and visitors never want to leave. They, too, know they’re already there. Here are 10 edited and updated entries from our bestselling book, 100 Things to Do in Charleston Before You Die, which is now in its 2nd edition with Reedy Press.
Cele and Lynn Seldon are veteran travel journalists who have written dozens of articles about South Carolina. Along with 100 Things to Do in Charleston Before You Die, they also wrote the chapter introductions to Our Vanishing Americana: A South Carolina Portrait. To see more of their work and order signed and personalized copies of their books, visit www.seldonink.com.
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E X P LO R E & S H O P C H A R L E S TO N S T YL E WT HI TE H H I S TO R I C C H A R L E S TO N F O U N D AT I O N
Visitors have always enjoyed taking a little piece of Charleston home with them. Whether it’s a sweetgrass basket, benne wafers, rice spoons, or a symbol of Charleston’s hospitality in the form of a pineapple or palm tree, the Historic Charleston Foundation provides a perfect opportunity to find a treasure trove of Charleston Style™ designs. Since 1972, the foundation has worked with talented artisans and distinguished manufacturers to create
S H O P AT T H E C U LT U R A L H E A R T O F C H A R L E S TO N ATT H E C I T Y M A R K E T
Whether it’s the latest beach read or a city history book, Charleston is a town of readers. Several classic downtown bookstores oblige the reading habit, with many more available nearby. Boomer’s Books, which opened in 1995, was purchased by longtime employee Jonathan Sanchez in 2007 and renamed Blue Bicycle Books (look for the blue bike out front). Along with used, new, and lots of regional offerings, the store hosts more than two hundred authors each year, as well as November’s YALLFest, a young adult book festival. On the other end of King Street, Buxton Books specializes in regionally focused fiction and nonfiction, but it has other offerings as well. Co-owner Julian T. Buxton III wrote The Ghosts of Charleston, and Tour Charleston ghost tours and other tours start at the store. bluebicyclebooks.com / buxtonbooks.com
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B O O K I T TOA B O O K S TO R E
beautiful objects that reflect the vibrant urban city or the serene spirit of the Lowcountry islands and marshes. From books and bedding to food, furniture, and fine art, the Historic Charleston Foundation captures the spirit of Charleston’s architecture, gardens, and Southern hospitality. And best of all, proceeds support the ongoing preservation of Charleston for future generations. historiccharleston.org
One of the nation’s oldest public markets and possibly the oldest “shopping mall” in the United States, the four-block-long Charleston City Market is a shopper’s delight and the true heartbeat of the city. With more than three hundred enterprising local vendors, the market starts in the Great Hall, an 18,300-square-foot corridor filled with micro-boutiques selling handmade wares, jewelry, art, stoneware and pottery, Charleston specialties, and tasty treats. The next three blocks are open-air sheds housing all kinds of evolving and eclectic finds, from sweetgrass baskets and palmetto roses (there are dozens of resident Gullah artists) to stoneground grits and everything in between for the perfect Charleston souvenir. The surrounding neighborhood along Market Street is filled with restaurants, walking and carriage tours, specialty shops, and hotels. thecharlestoncitymarket.com
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S E E C H A R L E S TO N BY B I K E Cycling is a great way to truly explore a city and get healthy at the same time. Charleston’s bike share program—appropriately named Holy Spokes—makes it easier than ever to get around the Holy City. With upwards of 250 bikes available at more than two dozen different bike rack locations around the peninsula, riders can rent bikes 24/7 for eight dollars per hour (the program also offers monthly and annual rates). The adorable turquoise bikes are perfect for
point-to-point destinations, long scenic rides, or simply to explore Charleston’s nooks and crannies. There’s even a “hold” feature that lets you stop for up to thirty minutes and, when you are done, just return it to any bike rack. And it can all be done from your smartphone. charlestonbikeshare.com
WA L K , B I K E O R R U N T H E A R T H U R R AV E N E L J R . B R I D G E
Built in 2005 to replace the obsolete Grace Memorial Bridge, the Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge is a cable-stayed bridge across the Cooper River that connects downtown Charleston to Mount Pleasant. With a total length of 13,200 feet and a main span of 1,546 feet between two diamond-shaped towers, the eight-lane bridge sports a bicycle and pedestrian path along the south edge of the bridge. With stunning views of the historic Charleston Harbor and the Atlantic Ocean, the path—known as Wonders’ Way in memory of Garrett Wonders, who was killed in a biking accident while training for the 2004 Olympics—has become a playground for walkers, runners, and cyclists morning to night, while the busy weekends have their own party vibe.
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P LU N G E I N TO PAT R I OT S P O I N T N AVA L & M A R I T I M E M U S E U M
It’s only natural that the water-focused Charleston area would have a museum devoted to seafaring history. Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum is South Carolina’s most-visited heritage attraction for good reason, thanks to the presence of the huge USS Yorktown aircraft carrier, the USS Laffey destroyer, the USS Clamagore submarine, more than two dozen aircraft, and so much more. It’s the fourth-largest naval museum in the country and one of only two with more than two ships. Other highlights of a visit can include the Medal of Honor Museum and the Vietnam Experience, which simulates a “brown water” Navy support base and a US Marine Corps artillery firebase. patriotspoint.org
SPOON UP SOME SHE-CRAB SOUP Like shrimp and grits, many think of she-crab soup as a classic Charleston dish. Though versions of it can be traced to Scottish settlers in the South as early as the 1700s, legend has it that today’s Charleston she-crab soup was created by Mayor Goodwyn Rhett’s butler at the John Rutledge House during one of several visits by President William Howard Taft. Today, varied recipes can be enjoyed at many
AT
82 QUEEN
Charleston-area restaurants, but many longtime residents swear by the she-crab soup and historic setting served up at 82 Queen. There’s lots of butter and cream involved, but it’s the crab roe (eggs), crab meat, fish stock, sherry, and whipped sherry cream that give this dish nearly holy status in the Holy City. 82queen.com
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S E E A P E R F O R M A N C E ATT H E H I S TO R I C D O C K S T R E E T T H E AT R E Charleston’s original Dock Street Theatre at the corner of Church Street and Dock Street (now known as Queen Street) opened in 1736 with a performance of The Recruiting Officer and was the first building in America built exclusively to be used for theatrical productions. After being destroyed in the Great Fire of 1740, it reopened in 1809 as the Planter’s Hotel and—after falling into disrepair after the Civil War—was converted back into a theater and reopened in 1937. Modeled after eighteenthcentrury London playhouses,
the theater’s stage house and auditorium were built in the hotel’s courtyard. Another renovation in 2010 brought the historic theater into the twentyfirst century, and it now hosts many of the city’s finest cultural productions including Spoleto Festival USA and Charleston Stage, the resident professional theater group. charlestonstage.com
G O W H O L E H O G AT R O D N E Y S C OT T ' S W H O L E H O G B B Q
Rodney Scott already had a loyal following at his original whole hog ’cue joint up in Hemingway, South Carolina, but the opening of his Charleston location brought thousands more into his devoted pigpen. Scott and his crew still smoke whole hogs overnight over chopped wood, and you can smell the restaurant blocks before you get to its Upper King address north of downtown. The meat is hand-chopped and served on a sandwich with one side or as a
platter with two sides. Scott is serious about his scratch-made sides as well, including hush puppies, coleslaw, baked beans, mac and cheese, greens, and a veggie of the day. Other options at his no-frills joint include BBQ spare ribs, pit-smoked chicken, a rib-eye sandwich, and catfish. rodneyscottsbbq.com
THE
RESIDENT
OF
HUNTER'S STORE
Words by Roy Scott Photos by Rachel Ledbetter
T
here is something about this season of the year, with its howling winds, early darkness, jack-olanterns and trick-or-treaters that conjures up a good ghost story. Ghost stories are as much a part of Southern culture as sweet tea and fried chicken. Whether or not we believe in ghosts, we will sit and listen, allowing ourselves to be pulled into the story and the world of the afterlife. For some of us it is reassuring and for others absolutely terrifying, but in the end ghost stories hold a fascination for all of us whether they are truth or Fiction. South Carolina is especially rich in stories of restless spirits, mysteries and the unexplained. Columbia has the Third-Eye Man, Alice Flagg haunts Murrells Inlet, and the Blue Lady of Hilton Head is a tale passed down through generations. Here is a more current story from the Upstate...
The original home of Hunter’s Store has been located across from Pendleton’s Village Green since 1850. The Hunters built a new store across the street in 1929, abandoning this original building.
“I was staying after business hours to work upstairs when I heard the downstairs door open and close. Thinking it was an employee who had returned for some reason or another, I called down the stairs and, receiving no reply, I went down the worn stairs to investigate and found no one. Then, I heard footsteps upstairs, and returning, found no one. I called home and asked if supper had been prepared and being told it had not, I asked them to hold off a short while, as I was coming home.”
Those were the words of the late-Hurley Badders, former executive director of the Pendleton District Historical, Recreational and Tourism Commission. What he heard that night while working late in the Commission headquarters, located in Pendleton’s old Hunter’s Store building, was just the beginning of strange happenings at 125 E. Queen Street.
Jo McConnell, former Pendleton Historic District tour/events coordinator, walks upstairs to the second floor of the historic Hunter’s Store building in Pendleton.
Everything from A to Z... Built in 1850 and located in the center of Historic Pendleton, the building first served as a general store for Jesse Lewis. It came into the Hunter family in 1870 when it became "Hunter and Long." Partner James Hunter bought full control of the business which passed through several generations of Hunter ownership, becoming known as simply “Hunter's Store.” The store was the Wal-Mart of its day. Everything from A to Z – apples to zinnia seeds – could be purchased there. Dry goods, such as shoes, clothing and hats, were sold alongside local produce, fresh eggs, flour and coffee, as well as farm tools and chicken feed. It remained in business until 1929, when the owners moved to a building next door, closing the original structure which sat mostly unused and crumbling until the newly-formed district commission bought it in 1968. With new plumbing, electricity and other improvements, Hunter’s Store soon housed photographs, business and church records, and historical records for Anderson, Oconee and Pickens counties. ...the ghost of a man who died... In his book, Remembering South Carolina’s Old Pendleton District, Hurley Badders admitted that even though his experience with unexplained door closings and footsteps in the building was unsettling, he initially didn’t take it too seriously, that is, until the incident was mentioned to B.G. “Punch” Hunter. Over 90 years old, and one of the former owners of the store, Hunter told Badders that what he heard was the ghost of a man who died in Hunter’s Store in the late 1800s. According to Hunter, the man, who was a friend of the Hunter boys, fell off his horse and into Eighteen Mile Creek. The men had been drinking, so rather than taking him home and facing the wrath of their wives, they left him in the caretaker's apartment on the second floor of the store. “He was already soaked on the inside and the stream certainly drenched his outer person,” Badders said. “It was May and the windows were open, but it turned cold and the man died from the exposure.”
There is something here... Badders first heard the strange noises in the early 1970s. For years, Commission staff members heard footsteps and noises from the second floor. When renovations were being made to the building, the workers often reported hearing something fall, then scurrying footsteps. Donna Roper, former currator of the Anderson County Museum, while serving as a new staff member at Hunter’s Store, heard what sounded like several books falling on the second floor. She was alone in the building at the time. Once she summoned the courage to climb the stairs, she found nothing out of place. When she later told Badders about the strange noises, he apologized for not mentioning to her that the building was haunted. Next, even stranger things began to happen. “One time we placed the office chairs in certain positions at closing time, and they had been moved when we returned the next day,” Badders said. On another occasion, Badders was assisting two women tourists at the counter, “and one of them started shuddering and said, ‘There is something here.’ They started to leave and her companion stated, ‘She is a psychic.’” In addition, written in pencil on the door frame at the one-room apartment, which Badders said “Punch” Hunter remembered being there, but not knowing who did it, were the words: “May 19, 1894. Very cold.” Were the notations related to the man who died there? Could the date in 1894 be the actual night he died? Interestingly, Badders said: “Fine researchers that we were, we never pursued the matter.” ...not a warm and fuzzy feeling... And, then the unthinkable happened. Once again, Donna Roper was the unfortunate victim. This time, she was working alone on the first floor in the middle of the day. Suddenly, she heard footsteps from upstairs. At first, she thought nothing of it. The unexplained
noises were very common at that point. But then the footsteps started heading toward the staircase, and the sound of feet slowly touching each wooden step followed. Roper rose from her seat and peeked around the corner to see who was coming down. She hoped that it would be a familiar face. In the book, More Ghosts of Upstate South Carolina, writer John Boyanoski detailed what Roper saw: “The shape of a man in a dark, crumpled suit came into view as the sun shone through the back door. The man stopped on a little landing at the base of the stairwell just before three more steps jutted in an L-shaped direction. The man’s head was covered by thick, curly red hair that matched the beard on his face. He stood there for a second and simply vanished. No further walking down the steps. No saying anything. No going out the back door.” Years later, the ghost made another appearance. Jo McConnell, Pendleton Historic District tour/events coordinator, was working in the store one day when she said she had a close encounter. From Boyanoski’s book: “One of the other employees heard McConnell, and later said McConnell made the strangest sound she had ever heard. When the woman looked up, McConnell was clinging to a nearby countertop. The woman rushed to her. Was she sick? No, McConnell answered. She had just spotted the curly haired man.” "I got up from my desk and was walking around the corner to the water fountain. There was a corner alcove that I passed," McConnell said. "When I looked, I had an impression of a black silhouette, a man with his shoulders hunched over. He had very curly, bushy hair, boots and a black, wrinkled suit. I had the feeling like he was trying to hide. It was not a warm and fuzzy feeling." McConnell later told her story to a Leadership Pendleton gathering, and two of the women there, who had been volunteers at the office as teenagers years earlier, told her that they had seen the image of a man dressed the same way, but never said anything about it, fearing people would think they were crazy.
And, then there was the time that Badders was meeting with people in the office after hours while his grandson, about three years old at the time, played elsewhere in the building. Suddenly, the youngster came into the office and asked “Who is that man?” When investigated, there was no one, but Badders said the boy claimed that the man had been standing at almost the same spot of the previous sightings, and that he had curly hair and a black suit. “We don’t know what happened that time,” McConnell said. “Was it a child’s imagination, or something else?” One can only wonder... In keeping with the wishes of the Hunter family, the identity of the man who died in Hunter’s Store remains a secret. The penciled-in notations in the caretaker’s apartment have faded over time, but have been preserved. “I think it verifies our ghost,” McConnell said.
In the fall of 1970, the entire town of Pendleton, plus a small area extending into Pickens County, was named to the National Register of Historic Places. It is a popular destination for tourists looking for authentic heritage attractions, such as house museums, walking tours of the residential section, shopping for antiques, local hand-made craft items, restaurants, local lodging and special events. The Hunter’s Store building is now part of Lake Hartwell Country, one of 11 South Carolina regional tourism offices, covering Anderson, Oconee and Pickens counties. The building houses one of the largest archive collections of local, historical artifacts in the Upstate. In addition, it has an extensive genealogy library that is open to the public with information about the families that once lived in the region.
The COVID-19 shutdown caused Hunter’s Store to be closed for several months. There are now plans to open a bookstore on the first floor of the building in Fall, 2021, which will become the first true business to operate there in 92 years. One can only wonder how the long pandemic inactivity and the opening of the bookstore will affect the “resident ghost.” Will staff, customers, tourists and researchers hear the footsteps? Will the furniture move during the night? Will someone actually catch a sudden glimpse of the man in a dark suit?
One witness reported seeing the sudden image of a man with curly hair and beard, wearing a dark suit, on this staircase landing.
“May 19, 1894. Very cold.” These words are written in pencil on a door frame near the stairwell on the second floor of the Hunter's Store building. “I think it verifies our ghost,” McConnell says.
For more information, visit lakehartwellcountry.com
SOUTH CAROLINA Ghosts & Legends
W
ith Halloween just around the corner, local ghost stories and haunted legends take center stage. If you're looking for a chance to visit some local historic sites, SCETV HAS ROUNDED UP SOME PRETTY FRIGHTFUL STORIES to get you in the Halloween spirit. watch the videos and plan your trip...if you dare.
The Hauntings of Oakwood Cemetery Stumphouse Tunnel
The Ghosts of Charleston's Old City Jail Alice of the Hermitage
S C FA R M F U N
Fall Family Adventures
Autumn leaves, pumpkins please!
It’s everyone’s favorite season for a reason. From apples and pumpkins to campfires and sweaters, fall is a season of comfort. The cooler weather and beautiful scenery offer the perfect opportunity for families to create new and exciting memories at one of the many farms across our great state. Visiting a working farm, taking a hayride to find the perfect carving pumpkin, or picking apples straight from the tree – the homegrown goodness of our SC Farms offers plenty of adventures for you and your family to stay busy this fall. To make the ultimate fall bucket list this season for some fun family adventures, visit SCFarmFun.org and discover all the wonderful farms that are ready to welcome you.
FALL FESTIVITIES CORN MAZE PUMPKIN PATCHES FARM TOURS TRAIL RIDES FARM-TO-TABLE MEALS CHRISTMAS TREES OLD-FASHIONED SYRUP MAKING SUN FLOWER & WILD FLOWER U-PICKS & FESTIVALS S'MORES ROASTING SINGING AROUND THE CAMPFIRE WALK THROUGH THE SPOOKY GARDEN PUMPKIN CANNONS
PL AN YOUR NEX T
farm adventure AT
SCFARMFUN.ORG
South Carolina AG RITOURISM Cooler air means fall is here. Head out to the farm to enjoy pumpkin patches, farm tours, trail rides, farm-to-table dinners, corn mazes, and much more!
F L AVO R
D O W N
SERIES: If you're from the South, you can agree with me that one of the best things about it is the food. As a born and raised southern girl myself, this recipe series represents everything I want Homegrown Fare to be about: Reimagining traditional southern food. I'm taking classic "down south" recipes that we all know and love and adding my own twist to all of them that, in my opinion, makes them so much better. I'm talking fried chicken, pecan pie, pimento cheese and more. you can't go wrong with any of these, and they will truly give you a feel of how we like to do it down south!
"DOWN SOUTH" SERIES FEATURES: jalapeno & bacon pimento cheese sweet tea brined fried chicken & waffles Jalapeno cheddar beer bread butter pecan hand pies
JALAPENO BACON PIMENTO CHEESE creamy pimento made with spicy jalapenos & crispy bacon. SERVES: 1 PINT INGREDIENTS: 2 cups grated cheddar cheese (hand grated) ½ cup grated pepper jack cheese (hand grated) 4 ounces soft cream cheese ½ cup Duke's mayonnaise 4-oz jar pimentos, drained ½ lb bacon, cooked and crumbled ¼ cup diced jarred jalapeños 1 teaspoon Texas Pete hot sauce 1 teaspoon black pepper ½ teaspoon onion powder ½ teaspoon ground mustard ¼ teaspoon garlic powder ¼ teaspoon paprika ⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
INSTRUCTIONS: Grate the cheese using a box grater. Combine shredded cheese, softened cream cheese, mayo, drained pimentos, jalapeños, and hot sauce. Next, add in all of the seasonings and the bacon. Mix thoroughly. Allow it to chill in the refrigerator for a few hours before serving. Great with crackers, toasted bread, on a sandwich, or burger. Enjoy!
SWEET TEA BRINED FRIED Chicken & WAFFLES Sweet tea brined fried chicken & waffles with a sweet & spicy maple syrup. SERVES: 6 SERVINGS
INGREDIENTS: FOR THE FRIED CHICKEN: 6 Boneless, Skinless Chicken thighs
Brine: 4 cups of sweet tea ¼ cup salt 1 lemon, sliced
Dry Dredge: 2 cups All-Purpose Flour ½ cup Cornstarch 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 tablespoon Black Pepper 2 tablespoon Tony Chachere’s Creole Seasoning 1 tablespoon Brown Sugar 1 teaspoon Salt 1 teaspoon Garlic Powder 1 teaspoon Onion Powder 1 teaspoon Paprika 1 teaspoon Ginger 1 teaspoon Cayenne Pepper
Wet Dredge: 2 cups buttermilk ⅛ cup Texas Pete hot sauce 2 eggs
For the waffles: 2 cups all-purpose flour 4 eggs, separated 2 cups buttermilk 2 tablespoons sugar ½ stick butter, melted 1 tsp vanilla extract ½ tsp salt 2 tsp baking powder 1 tsp baking soda
Spicy Maple Syrup: ½ cup Maple syrup, warmed 1 tablespoon Hot Sauce
Toppings: Sweet and Spicy Sliced Pickles
INSTRUCTIONS: Start with your chicken brine. Add your chicken thighs and all brine ingredients into a large Ziplock bag. Refrigerate for at least overnight, but ideally 24-48 hours. I prefer 48 hours.
After 10 minutes, check that your oil is ready for frying. You can do this by dropping a pinch of the dry dredge mixture into the pan. If it bubbles and floats to the top, the oil is ready.
When chicken is done marinating, take it out of the fridge around 1-2 hours before frying and let it come to room temperature for at least 30 minutes. If you feel like your chicken won’t warm up after a while, run some lukewarm water over the bag to speed up the process of coming to room temperature. Do not fry cold chicken! (Trust me, I have learned from my mistakes!)
Carefully add the chicken to the hot oil in batches and cook for about 4-5 minutes per side.
Meanwhile, make your waffle batter. Personally, I think it is a good idea to go ahead and have your batter mixed up and ready to pour into the waffle iron before frying the chicken. This way, both the chicken and the waffles will be warm when serving them. Wait to cook the waffles until your chicken is draining after frying.
Note: Do not add more than 2 pieces of chicken at a time. If my
To make the waffles, add your yolks and sugar to a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer. Next, add your buttermilk, butter, and vanilla. Mix well with the beater. In a separate bowl, mix in your dry ingredients with a whisk. Add to the wet ingredients and whisk until just combined. Last, beat your egg whites until they begin to form soft peaks. Fold the egg whites into the batter using a spatula. Do not over-mix the batter. Set aside and begin making your chicken.
For the chicken: When the chicken has reached room temperature for at least 30 minutes, whisk together the flour and seasonings in a small baking pan to create the dry dredge mixture. Mix the milk, hot sauce, and eggs to create the wet dredge mixture. Add a few spoonfuls of the wet dredge to the dry dredge and mix. Take chicken out of the brine and place on a baking sheet lined with paper towels. Pat the chicken dry completely. Make sure you do this part well! Your chicken needs to be super dry. It will create a sticky mess that can lead to breading falling off if it is too wet. Create an “assembly line” with marinated chicken, wet dredge, dry dredge, and wire racks. At this point, add the oil to a cast-iron skillet and heat over medium. The oil should fill up the skillet about halfway full. Don’t wait to heat your oil. Dredge each chicken piece in the dry dredge mixture, then wet, then dry. Shake off excess but ensure that the pieces are thoroughly coated with the dry mixture. On your last dip into the dry dredge, really press the flour hard into the chicken. You want it locked on there as best as possible. Repeat until all pieces are done. Place dredged chicken pieces on a wire rack. Let the coated pieces sit on the wire rack for 10 minutes.
Use a pair of tongs to flip the chicken. The chicken should be golden brown, and the internal temperature should be 165 ° F at the thickest part.
pieces are big, I only add 1 piece at a time to ensure the process goes smoothly. Doing this is going to take patience, but it is key to frying chicken. Too many pieces crowded in the pan will make the oil temperature drop too low. You will not get crispy chicken, and it will take much longer to cook if this happens. When the chicken is in the skillet, do not be tempted to turn it over too early to “check” the other side. You will know the chicken is ready to be flipped when it separates from the pan. The crust will naturally release on its own. If you flip too early, the crust will stick to the bottom of the pan. Working in batches, when each piece is done, remove first to a plate lined with paper towels. Allow to sit on the paper towels for a few minutes to absorb a lot of the excess grease. After a few minutes, transfer the chicken to a clean wire rack to drain. The wire rack should be positioned on top of a baking sheet lined with paper towels. Let the chicken sit on the wire rack for at least 10 minutes. While the chicken is draining, use this time to cook your waffles using a waffle iron. While your waffles cook, mix up your maple syrup and hot sauce to make a spicy maple syrup. When the waffles are done, and the chicken has drained, serve by placing a piece of chicken on top of a waffle. Top with the spicy syrup. Serve with sweet and spicy pickle slices and additional hot sauce for topping.
jalapeno cheddar beer bread
Filled with cheddar cheese, spicy jalapeños, and sweet caramelized onions, this is truly the perfect loaf of bread that anyone (and I mean anyone) can make at home, regardless of your level of experience. SERVES: 1 loaf
INGREDIENTS: 3 cups all-purpose flour For the caramelized onions: 2 tbsp sugar 1 yellow onion, diced 1 tbsp baking powder 1 tbsp butter 1 tsp salt 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar 1 tsp Tony Chachere's creole seasoning 1 pinch salt 1 tsp onion powder ½ tsp garlic powder ⅛ tsp cayenne pepper 12 oz beer 3 tbsp honey, reserve 1 tbsp 4 tbsp butter, melted, reserve 1 tbsp ¼ cup diced jarred jalapeños ½ cup grated cheddar cheese (hand grated)
INSTRUCTIONS:
Note: This recipe can be made without onions. If you would prefer to omit, skip the first few steps of these instructions.
Start by making the caramelized onions. Slice the onion and melt a tablespoon of butter in a skillet over medium heat. When the butter is melted, add the onions. Stir around with a wooden spoon to make sure they’re coated in the butter. Cook the onions for about 30 minutes, stirring frequently. The onions should be a very dark golden color and somewhat of a jam consistency when done. When the onions are done cooking, add your balsamic vinegar and salt. Cook for about another minute. Take off of the heat and let cool. While the onions are cooling, begin making your bread. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and spray a loaf pan with cooking spray. Whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and all seasonings until combined. Next, add in your hand-grated cheddar cheese and your jalapeños. Stir. Add in your beer, honey, and caramelized onions, and stir until just combined. (do NOT over-mix your dough!). Spread in the prepared loaf pan and bake for 30 minutes, then remove and pour the 3 tablespoons of melted butter over the top. Return to the oven and bake for an additional 15-20 minutes until golden and center is set. Remove from oven and spread your reserved tablespoon of butter and reserved tablespoon of honey on top of your bread. Let cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Best served warm. Enjoy!
butter pecan hand pies
INSTRUCTIONS: In a large saucepan over medium heat, add your stick of butter and brown. When making brown butter, the butter will melt, foam, and then subside. You want to cook until brown bits develop in the bottom of the pan and the butter turns a golden amber color, about 10 minutes. As soon as the butter reaches that golden color, take it off the heat. Brown butter can burn very quickly. Let sit for about 5 minutes before returning to the heat on medium-low.
A play on traditional southern pecan pie: Individually portioned, deliciously sweet, and made with rich, nutty brown butter. SERVES: ABOUT 8 PIEs INGREDIENTS: 1, 14 oz package refrigerated Pie Crust 1 stick butter, browned 1 cup brown sugar 1 cup chopped pecan pieces 1 tsp vanilla
¼ tsp salt ½ cup heavy cream 1 egg 1 tbsp water Granulated sugar, for topping
ABOUT HOMEGROWN FARE: Homegrown Fare was founded by Ryleigh Lusk, an aspiring recipe developer/food stylist. Everything Ryleigh knows about cooking is self-taught, thanks to her southern roots and spending time experimenting in the kitchen for fun. Homegrown Fare is all about recreating classic southern food. The recipes brought to Homegrown Fare are always full of love (and butter, of course)! Think of it as Grandma’s classics reimagined: Full of comfort and nostalgia but still always bringing something new, creative, and fun to the table.
Whisk in brown sugar until the sugar is combined into the butter and has melted a little. Next, fold in the pecans, vanilla, and salt with a wooden spoon. Once combined, whisk in the heavy cream ¼ cup at a time. Turn the heat back up to medium and, frequently stirring, simmer for about 5 minutes. If the mixture starts to boil, turn the heat back down to medium-low. Remove from heat and allow to cool for around 15-20 minutes. At this point, preheat your oven to 425 degrees F and use this time to unroll your pie crusts. On a cutting board using a biscuit cutter, cut out circles in your crust. If you don’t have a biscuit cutter, use something in a circular shape and a similar size. Personally, I felt like my biscuit cutter was a little too small, so I just used the rim of a small glass bowl and cut it with a knife, and it worked just fine. Ball up and roll out the dough scraps to make more circles. I was able to make 9 pies out of the dough. Place the circles on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet and fill them with your cooled pecan filling. I added a heaping spoonful in each one. If you feel like it needs more or less filling, eyeball it and make sure there is enough room to seal the dough's edges. Once filled, fold them in half and seal the edges with a fork. Before baking, brush your pies with a good amount of egg wash (1 egg, 1 tbsp water mixed together). Sprinkle with a generous amount of granulated sugar and make three slits along the straight edge of the pie. Bake for 15-20 minutes, or until just golden brown. When you take the pies out of the oven, let them cool on a wire rack for a few minutes.
Note: When they come out of the oven, there will
probably be some spillage from the filling. You can easily clean that up by cutting off the spillage with a knife. When my filling spilled out, it caramelized, which made it even easier to cut off. Serve warm and enjoy!
NOV. 11–14
TABLE ROCK STATE PARK
tickets & information
P C F WO M E N SA DV E N T U R E . C O M
Curating
a Bartender's Passion
Words by Darlene Greene Photos provided by Old Edwards Inn, Ginger Moseley What makes the perfect cocktail? The flavors; the style glass in which it’s served; the twist, olive or fruit that decorates it; or the memory the taste evokes which may have you dreaming of that charming bar, fun restaurant or exciting vacation spot again? Answer: All of the above!!! Cocktails can be simple, fancy, straight up, over ice with various decorative touches including fancy straws and little paper umbrellas. There are places where, with the purchase of a signature cocktail, you will receive a souvenir glass to take home with you. Wherever your travels take you, you are likely to find a restaurant or bar that has created custom cocktails. And, of course, this often means taking a
“classic” cocktail like a martini and adding something else to establish a new taste sensation for their patrons. Other times, the specialty drinks on the menu are truly new, original creations by the bartender or chef. Years ago, I had the good fortune to meet an extraordinary bartender who has a truly alchemical touch for curating cocktails. Joel introduced me to my very first Chatham Artillery Punch in Savannah’s own Shrimp Factory. Joel made the punch using the original recipe which is enough for a full artillery battalion and their ladies. (You can find a pared-down version of the original recipe in the Spring Issue of The Southern Edge, page 42.) We made it a point to visit Joel at the Shrimp Factory to enjoy his cocktail creations and food recommendations anytime we visited Savannah. Several years later, Joel relocated to Highlands, NC and is now the Head Bartender at Four65, a wood-fire bistro and bar, part of the Old Edwards Inn & Spa. The menu includes handcrafted wood-fired pizzas, cast-iron sandwiches and fresh salads using ingredients from their own gardens and local growers. In a recent visit, I was able to experience a truly unique libation created by Joel and his former bartending associate, Kevin. A smoked bourbon cocktail infused with fig and vanilla--this delicious cocktail takes 2 months to make and is not on the menu because they can’t make it fast enough to meet the demand. So how did this delicious drink come to be?
Once he joined Four65, Joel had the opportunity to create custom cocktails using local herbs, fruits and spirits whenever possible. Also, by taking advantage of seasonal fruits and herbs, the cocktail menu is ever-changing and offers lots of variety. Using locally sourced ingredients ensures that patrons can experience a taste of the current season as well as the unique flavors of the area. Since smoked bourbons have become very vogue in the bartending world in recent years, Joel and Kevin wanted to create something that was not only tasty but original. After experimenting with various techniques, Joel and Kevin found a winning combination. Using a Rare 101 proof bourbon from Kentucky, in a very large 5-gallon glass jar, they add fig, vanilla and then fill the jar with smoke from cherrywood. Once the jar is filled with smoke, they seal it and wait. Patience is key. After 2 months of turning the jar daily, the bourbon is infused with the slightly sweet taste of the figs and the warmth of the vanilla and wood smoke. The finished cocktail is then poured over a single square ice cube and finished with chocolate bitters and Luxardo cherries. It is smooth, satisfying and perfect on a cool fall afternoon or winter evening. Due to its popularity, Joel now makes it year-round. Kevin left Four65 this past Spring to pursue another opportunity, but Joel continues to create custom cocktails using the freshly made simple syrups, ginger beers and other mixers he and the staff produce on site. A Moscow mule with Four65’s home-made ginger beer is a treat for your tastebuds. Or try a Rose465, a lovely combination of gin, mint, lemon, peach and sparkling rose.
When asked how he got to this stage of his career, Joel says his love of local ingredients and learning what his customers like is a big part of his inspiration. He truly enjoys meeting people, sharing his craft and introducing new patrons to something they might not otherwise try. Joel is always honored when a patron asks for a specialty drink they have had elsewhere. “Some of my peers find it frustrating when a customer says I had this really great drink on my last vacation, can you make it?,” Joel says with a smile, “but I see it as an opportunity to help someone re-live a happy experience. It is also a challenge to try and re-create what someone describes to me. I love it when I get it right.” As with anything, great cocktails begin with quality ingredients, and Joel is very proud of the fact that Four65 makes their own mixers and ginger beer from scratch on site using locally sourced produce, herbs, and juices. Just as the cocktails are carefully curated, the Chef does the same with the menu. “The atmosphere at Four65 has a very Mediterranean feel and the pizzas have a Neapolitan flair,” said Joel. “The dough, the sauces, everything is made from scratch here.” “Great cocktails, great food and a wonderful atmosphere where our guests feel welcome and comfortable, that is what we work to achieve,” said Joel. “We love what we create here at Four65 and we love sharing it with our guests. Highlands is a great place to live, work or play. Come visit us!”
465 Main Street Highlands, NC
four65.com
oats FOR THE LOVE OF
Delicious Recipes for the Savory Side of Oatmeal Words by Yuka Greer / Recipes by Mayumi
Walk the dog, do yoga, and eat oatmeal… with flax seeds, blueberries, banana slices, and walnuts. This is my morning. Every morning. It seems simple, but this routine gives me the energy to make it through the busy day ahead of me.
The health benefits of wholegrain oatmeal are well recognized. Along with nuts, beans, lentils, apples, and blueberries, it contains soluble fiber known for lowering glucose levels as well as lowering blood cholesterol. Some studies show that betaglucan, the primary type of fiber found in oats, also slows digestion, increases fullness, and suppresses appetite.
Oats come in a variety of forms.
The less the oats are processed, the longer it takes to digest. The least processed oats like oat groats have a lower glycemic index than rolled or instant oats.
Oat Groats: The whole oat kernels that have been cleaned,
with only the loose, inedible hulls removed. Groats contain the intact germ, endosperm, and bran.
Oat bran, which contains the most fiber in a groat, is also
removed and eaten as a cereal or added to recipes to boost fiber content.
Steel-Cut or Irish: Oat groats that have been cut into two
or three smaller pieces using a steel blade. The larger the size of the pieces, the longer they will take to cook.
Scottish Oats: Oat groats that have been stone-ground into a meal, creating a porridge-like texture when cooked.
Rolled or Old-Fashioned: Oat groats that have been
steamed, rolled and flattened into flakes, and then dried to remove moisture so they are shelf-stable.
Quick or Instant: Oat groats that are steamed for a longer period and rolled into thinner pieces so that they can absorb water easily and cook very quickly. Be aware that many brands of instant oats come sweetened or flavored, so be sure to check the ingredients for no added sugar.
From Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health
Most people associate oatmeal with a sweet flavor and often as a breakfast food. But our food expert, Mayumi, shares some savory oatmeal recipes that will have you thinking differently about this versatile starch.
ingredients:
For the Pancake: 5 tablespoons quick-cooking steel cut oats 3 oz chicken or vegetable broth 1 tablespoon corn starch 1 egg, beaten 2 tablespoons sesame seeds 3 green onions, cut into 2” matchsticks 2” carrot, cut into julienne ¼ small onion, sliced 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil Salt and Pepper to taste
For the Sauce: 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons vinegar Chili oil (optional)
DIRECTIONS: STEP 1 In a large microwavable bowl, mix broth, oatmeal, and corn starch. Heat in a microwave oven on 1,000 watts for one minute. Stir well and cool. STEP 2 Add beaten egg, vegetables, and sesame seeds. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed. STEP 3
Korean-inspired
oatmeal Pancake Serving: 1
Heat sesame oil in a frying pan. Pour batter and fry over medium heat until golden on one side, about 3 minutes. STEP 4 Turn and fry again until golden on the other side, about another 3 minutes. STEP 5 Prepare sauce. STEP 6
Ground meat (chicken, turkey, etc.) may be added.
Slice it and serve with the sauce on the side. Pour the sauce over the pancake and enjoy!!
oatmeal Tomato TUNA RISOTTO
Serving: 1
ingredients: 4 tablespoons rolled oats 1 cup tomato soup, tomato basil soup, or tomato paprika soup ½ teaspoon garlic poweder or minced garlic 2 tablespoons chopped onion 3 tablespoons canned tuna Parmesan cheese Salt and Pepper to taste Fresh basil for topping
DIRECTIONS: STEP 1 In a pot, add oatmeal, onion, tuna and garlic/ garlic powder. Cook on a medium low heat stirring occasionally until the liquid is almost gone, about 7-8 minutes. STEP 2 Put the risotto in a serving bowl. Top with black pepper, parmesan cheese, and basil. Tuna may be substituted with ham, bacon or sausage.
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HEART
9/11
R em em b e r i n g
and
war s s i n c e Words by W. Thomas Smith, Jr.
"New York City, USA - September 29, 2001: The World Trade Center Site at Ground Zero. Debris and vehicles seen spread around the area already 2 weeks after the September 11, 2001 disaster. Fires are still burning underground and smoke and haze f ill the sky." ShutterWorx
A
s we commemorate the 20th anniversary of 9/11 – both the catastrophic losses and the subsequent demonstrations of heroism on the part of first responders and others – we also remember the initial shock of that seminal event in American history when nineteen Al Qaeda terrorists commandeering four American airliners launched the worst-ever single day attack against the United States and the world. Approximately 3,000 men, women, and children lost their lives on Sept. 11, 2001. America and her allies were soon embroiled in two overseas wars and untold counterterrorist operations around the globe. The world was changed forever. For me as a formerly deployed Marine rifleman, a civilian military analyst, and a journalist who had already covered conflict overseas – specifically the Bosnian War in the mid-1990s as well as clashes between the Israelis and Palestinians on the West Bank – the 9/11 attacks seemed to thrust me as it did so many others into an experiential place never imagined.
car and drove straight through from S.C. to New York. I recall having a cell phone – not yet a smart phone – but mobile calls were not getting through nearly as easily as were calls placed on land lines. Beepers (pagers) were still being used to a limited degree, though most beepers had been phased out by 2001, and I had ditched my own a year or two earlier. Email was a relatively new means of communicating. But accessing an Internet signal was often hit-or-miss, more often than not a time of patiently (for me impatiently) waiting for a connection which far too frequently failed. Still I was able to get through to a friend who worked in Manhattan and who invited me to stay in her home in Brooklyn, which I did: Both in her home and a few nights on the floor in her office overlooking Times Square.
Within 48 hours of the attacks, I was at “Ground Zero” in New York. At the time, I was living and working on the Lexington side of Lake Murray. I remember making a few calls from my landline, but it was difficult to get through to New York. After a few hours and a couple of successful calls, I tossed my bags in the trunk of the
A man walks an American flag on the Brooklyn Bridge Sept. 11, 2020 to commemorate the lives lost on 9/11/2001. Allie Delury
T R AV E L I N G NO RT H I remember there being very few civilian travelers on the road as I made my way north on Interstate 95, though there were lots of military convoys and law enforcement vehicles, big dark unmarked SUVs, most of which were traveling past me in fast-moving columns with lights flashing. The morning following the attacks, I was crossing the Verrazzano Bridge and for the first time seeing the smoke still billowing up from what were once the great towers of the World Trade Center. It burned for days as I recall.
LOW E R M A N H AT TA N Soon after arriving, I settled in and took to the streets, spending time first at the Red Cross recovery station where volunteers were taking DNA swabs from family members who were frantically searching for their missing loved ones. Closer to “Ground Zero,” I witnessed dazed shopkeepers returning to their now nonexistent buildings or damaged storefronts, staring at the thick powdery gray ash and tiny strips of paper that literally covered everything for several blocks from the attacks.
In the weeks following, when asked by reporters to describe what I saw, the one thing that struck me was the fact that on TV and in the newspapers – today also on the Internet (Remember, in 2001, the Internet was nothing like as mainstream as it is today) – the one-dimensional images we all saw and continue to see, did not and do not begin to adequately illustrate how horrible it really was: Impossible to describe. I won’t attempt to describe it here either.
Warplanes from the offshore aircraft carrier USS George Washington roared overhead, making wide sweeps over the city during their constant patrols, because – remember, at that time – the nation was anticipating equally devastating follow-up attacks. Then physically at “Ground Zero,” I stood between what was left of the two towers and the destroyed buildings adjacent to the towers. At nearby St. Paul’s Chapel, the church in which George Washington worshipped on the morning of his inauguration in 1789, the tombstones were covered in several inches of gray ash, and the graves themselves were covered in ash and strewn with pieces of burned paper. Everything smelled like an electrical fire, and in the days that followed the smell worsened.
"New York City, USA - September 29, 2001: American army soldiers and construction workers are working on the scene at Ground Zero, just 18 days after the September 11, 2001 terrorist attack which collapsed the World Trade Center and killed thousands of innocent people." ShutterWorx
WAR S T O F O L LOW Then there were the subsequent overseas wars as America and her allies relentlessly tracked, pursued, closed with, and eliminated Al Qaeda and its affiliates on every front in every corner of the globe. Many of my friends have since served in Iraq and Afghanistan, many of them experiencing high-intensity combat action not known by Americans since the Vietnam
War, though our nation had experienced shorter lived conflicts in Grenada, Lebanon, the first Gulf War, and elsewhere around the world. I was in Iraq twice during the war. My good friend Col. (Ret.) Steve Vitali, U.S. Marine Corps, was in Iraq once, and then he deployed to Afghanistan (see Summer 2021 edition of THE SOUTHERN EDGE).
T R I P T O S H AW A N D M EMO R I E S O F BA BY LO N The memories for Steve and I both came flooding back in August 2021 during a short trip together from our mutual hometown in Columbia to Shaw Air Force Base in Sumter where Steve was briefing a group of Air Force logistics officers and senior staff NCOs. Steve’s briefing focused on the Marine Corps’ mission and what the Corps brings to the multi-service Joint Task Force, a force whose members today work far closer together than they did in the days prior to 9/11. Like so many of my military friends, especially those of us from Marine Infantry even Army Infantry and the various special operations communities, Steve and I both have myriad “war stories” that overlap or otherwise make shared connections because of places in time, and particular units. Enroute to Shaw, the subject came up about the ancient city of Babylon, the ruins of which today may be seen near the town of Hillah in Iraq’s Shia-populated Babil Province. Steve had actually been to Hillah. I had not, though I was once several miles from the ruins of Babylon during one of my two trips to Iraq. That particular journey was in 2007 during the early days of “the surge” against Al Qaeda in Iraq (AQI).
G U R K H AS A N D A LOW - F LY I N G P L A N E OV E R T H E DE S E RT As American and allied forces began aggressively “surging” against AQI’s strongholds across the country in the spring of 2007, I was frequently traveling along the various main supply routes (highways or MSRs) with a group of British contract-security guys – mostly former Royal Marines, British paratroopers, SAS commandos, and a few of their fellow Gurkhas. The Gurkhas were special Nepalese soldiers with a very colorful history. Gurkhas had been attached to the British Army since the 19th century. Brave to a fault, the late Indian Army Field Marshal Sam Manekshaw, once said, "If a man says he is not afraid of dying, he is either lying or he is a Gurkha." The Brits loved having Gurkhas around. I did too. Extremely loyal, always smiling, and famous for their wickedly curved kukri knives, they would – as one British security contractor said to me – “prevent AQI from cutting our throats as we slept at night.” One morning during a long road trip in three large up-armored gun trucks (two of which were loaded with British contractors and one which was loaded with Gurkhas)
traveling from the city of Baghdad to Basra in the south, we passed somewhere near the ruins of Babylon. I could not see the ruins nor anything else for that matter: Nothing but endless desert in every direction for 360 degrees, the gun-truck in front of us (I was in the second vehicle) and the truck with the Gurkhas behind us.
As the huge aircraft roared over us, I could clearly see “U.S. AIR FORCE” on the left side of the fuselage. But what truly struck home was what was painted on the tail of the aircraft: In big letters, it said C H AR L E ST O N (where the aircraft was based) and had my state's well-known palmetto tree flag painted on it.
Somewhere along the route, we stopped and dismounted. Everyone took a moment to stretch their legs, breathe some fresh air, and break open some cold bottles of water from the coolers.
That moment, in the middle of a war with foreign forces, in the middle of the desert, on the ends of the earth, and with a plane roaring above us emblazoned with that particular city name and flag, was, as you might imagine, emotionally stirring for a boy from South Carolina.
We felt like we were on the end of the earth, and we really were. All at once, I looked to the north and saw a tiny speck just above the horizon. The speck drew closer and seemed to gradually grow into a giant airplane with four huge jet engines mounted beneath its wings. It was in fact a C-17 cargo plane flying low over the desert floor, north to south, rapidly approaching us as it was probably following the same MSR we had been traveling along. Impressed by the size, noise, and power of the plane, the Brits began cheering and pumping their fists into the air, as did the Gurkhas. As did I.
AT T E N T I O N ? Words by Darlene Greene
T
hese words are spoken often in classrooms and auditoriums around the country. For most people, it is a gentle reminder that someone is ready to speak and to prepare to be quiet and listen. But for many people, children and adults alike, paying attention is quite a challenge. It is not that they don’t want to or are illmannered, their brains simply just don’t focus as quickly as others. “ADHD, or attention deficit hyperactivity disorder, is a mental health disorder that can cause above-normal levels of hyperactive and impulsive behaviors. People with ADHD may also have trouble focusing their attention on a single task or sitting still for long periods of time.”1 As previously indicated, this condition can afflict both children and adults. The cause of ADHD is unknown but believed to have neurological origins and possibly a result of a lack of dopamine in the brain while other studies suggest it may be a structural difference in the brain. Diagnosis is still somewhat subjective, with medical professionals, parents and teacher reviewing behavior patterns and situational behavior. Prescribed treatment is typically a combination of behavioral therapies and medication. 2
1 2
www.healthline.com/health/adhd www.healthline.com/health/adhd
A N O T H E R WAY ? In a recent interview with Kathy Whitmire, MEd, of the Center 4 ADHD, located in Oconee County, South Carolina, she offered some insight which is the result of studying this condition for over 20 years. She has developed a new way to assist children in managing this condition and develop new skills for learning, focusing and behaving. As both a teacher and administrator in the public-school system for many years, Kathy worked with children in the classroom and with teachers and parents outside the classroom. She realized that students with ADHD tendencies were often extremely intelligent yet did not have well-developed social skills or personal behavior management skills. “As a result of the work I do now at the Center 4 ADHD, I can say with confidence, students with ADHD, typically have very high IQs but they do not rate well in areas of EQ or AQ. EQ, Emotion Quotient, is how I describe the ability to regulate emotions and emotional behavior and/or reactions in day-to-day life situations. AQ, Adaptability Quotient, is how I describe an individual’s ability to adapt to environmental, classroom, parental, social or work expectations,” said Ms. Whitmire. “Understanding the brain’s response to various conditions and situations has helped us create a program that gives our students tools to become successful in the classroom and other situations. The tools also help improve the students’ sense of self-esteem and helps alleviate the anxiety that sometimes develops from ‘not being like everyone else’,” she added. With the fast pace of today’s world, increasing technological development and onslaught of information, our classroom model is outdated. Curriculum is canned and classroom protocols are based on students successfully passing standardized tests. Education has been compartmentalized by the government into a one-size-fits-all type agenda. Not all people learn in the same way, so this generic approach in our classrooms often leaves many students falling behind and parents frustrated.
Center 4 ADHD has solutions. The program utilizes a learning inventory that is given to students ages 9 and up to help parents and students understand their learning preferences and how they impact their ability to be successful in the classroom. With greater attention, students experience greater learning. The software used, Play Attention, developed by NASA, takes biometric signals from the armband worn by the student to move the games’ characters or features with their mind. When focused on the game, the student can move the characters through various levels but, if the attention wavers, the biometric signals cause the game to stop. When focus and attention is reapplied, the games will continue. Sessions teach students how to focus and to notice signals when their focus waivers. Each game session lasts around 30 minutes and it works best when utilized twice a week over a 20-week period. Another feature of the Center’s program is Brain Balancing Training. “Movement activities designed to stimulate and balance the function of the hemispheres of the brain can be learned,” says Ms. Whitmire. “Physical and sensory activities can promote selfcontrol and empower students with strategies that can be used in any situation.”
Students are also taught Mindfulness. With Mindfulness training, students learn to notice and identify emotions and emotional states. Tools are given to help them develop strategies for better self-control. “Teaching students how to manage their emotional brain and regulate feelings of anger, anxiety, and hyperactivity is the key to correcting reactive behavior,” explains Ms. Whitmire. Ms. Whitmire’s website, www.underthethinkingcap.com, offers more detailed information on her programs, seminars and workshops. She offers training courses for teachers and school administrators. “Finding better, more efficient ways to assist students in achieving their educational goals while providing tools and strategies that help them become more successful in all areas of their life is my passion,” says Ms. Whitmire. “While I have traveled all over the country sharing information, research and tools, I hope to see a fundamental change in how we approach education as a whole, so that every student is able to have the resources they need to learn and flourish.”
a legacy worth And a connection worth exploring. After all, the threads of Caribbean influences are neatly woven into the wonders of South Carolina’s cuisine, art and traditions. Come and see where a complex and connected past meets a vibrant future.
visitbarbados.org
I N N O VAT I O N
Drayton Hall's
Photo by Warren LeMay (Flickr)
STORIES
Foreword by George McDaniel / Editorial Photos by Leslie McKeller
with Carter Hudgins
President & CEO, Drayton Hall Preservation Trust since 2015
A range of decisions have crossed his desk, none more important than the new Sally Reahard Visitor Center, which exhibits Drayton Hall’s artifacts not available on a house tour. The new Lenhardt Garden enables visitors to see the actual plants cited in Charles Drayton’s diaries of the 1700s and early 1800s. The Caretakers’ House gives physical reality to the lifestyles of
generations of African Americans, while Drayton Hall’s landscape remains a joy to walk, an evocative place to imagine and connect with the past. This interview with Carter offers many lessons. You can see how questions are raised, options weighed, and choices made. Success does not just happen, so readers interested in leadership and management or in history and historic preservation will find Hudgins’ thoughts edifying. In fact anyone wishing to uplift a historic place or community – and South Carolina is replete with them – will find his interview both engaging and useful.
The full text of Hudgins’ interview will be featured in the image-rich book, Drayton Hall Stories: A Place and Its People, to be published in December 2021 by Evening Post Books. A portion of its net proceeds will benefit Drayton Hall. For readers seeking to enhance community cohesion by using historic places, the book can serve as a model. It seeks to unify, not divide. For more information, please see the SC National Heritage Corridor, scnhc.org, or mccanielconsulting.org or contact gmcdaniel4444@gmail.com.
M
istory abounds in South Carolina. In fact, we have the SC National Heritage Corridor to prove it. In town after town, there are buildings and places that exemplify our history, and the Corridor leads people to it. Along its route, there is no finer site than Drayton Hall, located just outside Charleston between the SC 61 and the Ashley River. What makes this site so important? Where is it headed in these turbulent times? Building on The Southern Edge’s coverage of Drayton Hall in its spring and summer issues, this interview with Carter Hudgins, Drayton’s CEO and President, provides some insight.
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COULD YOU TELL US ABOUT YOUR BACKGROUND, HOW YOU CAME TO DRAYTON HALL? HOW DID YOU BECOME INTERESTED IN HISTORY, ARCHAEOLOGY, AND HISTORIC PRESERVATION? I came to Drayton Hall as an infant. I was living with my parents in Savannah, Georgia, and my grandparents had taken me for the weekend and we came up to Charleston. I don’t remember anything about that experience, but I can claim that. As far as my background in historic preservation, archaeology, history, I have to say I came by it naturally. Being a historian, archaeologist, and preservationist, my father did drag us children to every historic site imaginable, so for a while, I didn’t want to have anything to do with history. However, during my sophomore year at Hampden-Sydney College, I participated in an archaeology field school at Jamestown and caught the bug, working with tangible objects as well as working with the good people at that site. I graduated with a B.A. in history. While there, I did have a run-in with a professor who asked me to write a paper on Jamestown, so I used our archaeological findings from our field school to write the paper. The professor gave me a D or an F, saying that none of the sources had been published, so I couldn’t use them. From that experience, I always have questioned the written record and challenged it in a sense. While that professor failed me, he actually inspired me to spend additional time at Jamestown and following the conclusion of my Ph.D. in history and material culture, to move to South Carolina and to Drayton Hall. There was an intermediate period when I was in high school and worked with the maintenance staff at Drayton Hall during the summers of ’96, ’97, and ’98. I was in a rebellious stage of my life, when I was not a historian or preservationist, and had little appreciation for a historic site. It was simply a job. At the end of the day, I was here by myself, securing the main house and closing the site. I therefore had a good bit of time to experience the site by myself and to interact with the landscape and the house, one on one. In the twilight, it was magical. That experience planted a seed for my appreciation today for Drayton Hall and reverence for the house.
Ongoing preser vation efforts at Drayton Hall
What did you think about your work as a Wood Family Fellow? What did you do? Why stay here and not go somewhere elsE? My experience as a Wood Family Fellow was transformative. Although Drayton Hall is newer than Jamestown, starting in 1738 rather than 1607, it was apparent how many discoveries there were to make. As a Fellow, my time was devoted to the research of the Lenhardt Collection of George Edwards Watercolors of the 1730s, but that led me to researching Drayton Hall’s museum and archeological collections, which in turn opened the doors through which we’re still moving today.
How has your thinking evolved over Drayton Hall? Are there some markers along the way that illustrate your evolution in thinking? My initial scholarship at Jamestown was based on using material culture as text to understand the past, but upon arrival at Drayton Hall, I was confronted with a wider pallet of resources. I’m neither an architectural historian nor a decorative arts expert, but a similar methodology of research can be used to analyze an object whether it comes out of the ground or has remained in somebody’s dining room. That is: How was it made? How was it used? Why did somebody purchase or make the object? What did the object mean to the persons who owned or used it? Those questions can be transferred from archaeology to decorative arts research to architectural history. At Drayton Hall, we have all three, plus a manuscript collection, so there’s a lot to work with.
When you began your Wood Family Fellowship, what did you focus on? What were the principal sources of evidence? As you study history, one question always leads to the next. In researching Drayton Hall’s material culture, that’s certainly the case. An example is what I studied during my Wood Family Fellowship, the Lenhardt Collection of George Edwards’ watercolors. What was the story behind the watercolors themselves and why John Drayton had acquired them in 1733? Answers shed light about him as an individual, his pursuits in natural history, and his intellectual prowess in terms of literature, astronomy, and architecture. We’re fortunate at Drayton Hall that so many resources survive, and even though we know very little about John Drayton as written by his own hand, we can still piece together research of these collections for a more complete understanding of him. While it’s ironic that John Drayton becomes somewhat a man of mystery due to lack of written records, we need also to think about another group of people, the enslaved Africans here. They too didn’t leave written records. Just as we must piece together John Drayton’s history using what survives in material form, we also do the same thing through the artifacts left by the enslaved community and are therefore cataloguing the archeological collection to associate more information with that community. As a result, we’re in an exciting time.
TOP: Artifact labeling at Drayton Hall.
CENTER:: Trained preser vation volunteers work on the cleaning and labeling of f ragments found archaeologically. BOTTOM: Examining artifacts with a special microscope.
WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ABOUT DRAYTON HALL'S PRESERVATION PHILOSOPHY? WHAT ARE ITS ADVANTAGES & DISADVANTAGES?
In looking at it carefully, we can see that the preservation philosophy is more of an evolving philosophy. As a colleague once declared, the further we get away from the 1970s and 1980s when the preservation philosophy was codified, our job becomes more and more difficult. Since aspects of the house have a shelf life, we are constantly forced to evaluate repairs and conservation measures and still uphold the preservation philosophy. The preservation philosophy is valuable because it enables the site to become a timeline for us to read. The seven generations of Draytons and seven plus generations of enslaved Africans and their descendants who lived and worked here left imprints on the property. The challenge of the preservation philosophy boils down to the significance of the site. One of the prime reasons for the site’s significance is its truly being a survivor. Another is its design, for this is an extraordinary structure. Its initial design by John Drayton was the first of its kind in America. However, some of the imprints on the house and on the property, both intentional or not, cloud that. This is more apparent on the landscape, whose preservation is a tricky thing because it’s constantly evolving, and if you do not do proactive maintenance, you’re left with an overcrowded mess. We’re at a point now
where we do need to take a more aggressive approach with the landscape, and we question whether we’re preserving historical resources or preserving neglect. Since the house was occupied less in the 20th Century, a lot of once-cleared land turned into wilderness. Do we honor those unintentional imprints on the landscape? That’s a question for the future. One of the values of Drayton Hall’s preservation philosophy is that the imprints from previous generations do remain both on the house and landscape. If Drayton Hall and the National Trust had practiced restoration, things like graffiti in the house would have been covered over along with unintentional imprints like where candles burned some of the historic fabric of the house. Removing or covering them over would have taken away evidence of how the house was lived in and worked in over time. One way to think about the preservation philosophy is to conceptualize the house and property as being composed of different zones. For example, we’re intentionally not doing pure preservation with the exterior of the house because if we left the house as it was when acquired, we’d have water intrusion and lose the resource. As a result, we do a level of restoration on the exterior. However, on the interior of the house, I wouldn’t dare do any restoration work, such as a fresh coat of paint, because it would cover things up. Moving forward, we need to identify different treatment zones, both within the historic architecture and across the landscape, areas where we may have more stabilization or even restoration in one place and more conservation in another.
Photos by Warren LeMay (Flickr)
Drayton Hall’s preservation philosophy, which makes the site not period-specific, is both a blessing and a curse. There is incredible value to allowing the stories of the seven generations of people that lived and worked here to educate visitors. It’s a curse, though, because it’s incredibly confusing. In interpreting the site, we may want to think about the amount of attention we’re applying to different generations. Although all the stories are important, do they deserve equal time in our research and programming? That’s a complicated question to answer.
HOW does the work with the historical landscape, such as the large pond, fit into that zoned approach? The two historical ponds offer a perfect example of creating zones for the landscape and identifying different treatment levels for them. Their conservation is probably one of the more conspicuous projects that Drayton Hall has taken on the landscape, the goals being to restore the quality and flow of water, to support aquatic life in and around the ponds, and to remove a lot of vegetation. The latter was necessary because the root systems of the trees and shrubs compromised the integrity of the banks by lifting them up and allowing water to seep through. If we had not intervened, removed the 20th century vegetation, and then re-topped the banks, we’d have ended up losing this valuable historical resource, which is a survivor of some of the oldest inland rice fields in South Carolina. We’re also intervening to educate present and future visitors and to enhance wildlife habitat. It’s like the roof of Drayton Hall. If we had left the roof to its own devices, it would have eventually failed, as would have the rest of the house.
What do you think about Drayton Hall not being period specific in its interpretation, or should there be zones for interpretation as well? With the visitor in mind, I think that the interpretation is currently confusing. Trying to interpret seven generations of people, both free and enslaved, is complicated, and we could do more work focusing on the 18th Century and on what Drayton Hall is — that is, an architectural jewel with remarkable, surviving material culture. Thanks to the preservation philosophy, we have a wider pallet of resources than anywhere else in colonial America, so we should focus on that initial period, the long 18th century, when Drayton Hall was used as the primary home seat of the Drayton family. That’s not to say those stories from the 20th century and the later 19th century are not important, but do they deserve equal time in our research and programming? That’s a complicated question. For now, it’s clear we need to expand the work we’re doing on the long 18th century.
What projects have you been engaged in that you think have made the most difference, and how have they made a difference? I’ve been involved in a wide variety of projects. One of the more significant was the Wood Family Fellowship. Thanks to that program, we’ve been able to build up Drayton Hall’s preservation department in the last 10 years, bringing in specialists in archeology, architectural history, and the decorative arts, who have put Drayton Hall on the map. The research those individuals are putting forward has been well received on a national level, which has underscored the fact that Drayton Hall is a national, indeed an international, treasure.
A PHOTO DIARY OF THE Photos by Marie Goff The 2nd annual SC7 Expedition, led by Tom Mullikin, took place July 1st through July 30th and was a trek from the mountains to the sea across the state of South Carolina. “The goal of the SC7 Expedition is to get people in the outdoors so they appreciate and care for the outdoors,” says Mullikin, a world explorer who claims South Carolina to be one of the most beautiful places on earth. The SC7 project is a partnership between the South Carolina National Heritage Corridor and Mullikin’s non-profit organization, Global Eco Adventures. Along with the annual expedition that takes place each July, the SC7 team works throughout the year planting trees, managing litter pickups, holding environmental education programs, and much more. In addition, Mullikin is the Chairman of the Governor’s Floodwater Commission working to create resiliency strategies to better protect the state against severe weather events. The 2021 Expedition was honored to add Brigadier General Marie Goff and Col. Eddie Goff to the expedition team. This dynamic duo was a valuable asset to this year's expedition team. Eddie assisted with the daily logistics and Marie captured amazing photographs as the team traversed the state. We are proud to showcase some of her work in The Southern Edge.
FOR MORE INFORMATION ON SC7: southcarolina7.com
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